(Part 2) Best products from r/vandwellers

I had something similar while I was briefly on the road: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EC7XJ00/ . I really liked it, but it was 120v and I had a pretty underwhelming electrical system, so I usually only used it when I was plugged in or at an actual campsite. The thing is, that although these things are low draw, they take a really long time to actually heat your food. Like, two hours for reheating leftovers. That said, they're a very gentle heat, so leftovers come out warmed a lot nicer than if you used a microwave. And with the one I had I could just put my tupperware in there and half the point was avoiding dirtying dishes and using more water. Didn't try to do any actual cooking with it, though. Had a butane campstove for that.

If you have a robust battery bank/solar and want to have something to reheat stuff or warm up frozen meals nicely over a long period of time, it's not a bad product. Maybe run the numbers and see if you can plug it into your cigarette lighter while driving? But either way, get one of them that are soft-sided so that you can stuff it away somewhere and it takes up barely any space. It's a pretty specific use case, but I was pretty fond of mine.

Using solar in a van is simple if your expectations are in line, and unworkable if not.

First, the bad: If you want to run devices that heat or cool with electricity, such as coffeemakers, hotplates, A/C, toasters, hair dryers, etc., you will not make your numbers or anywhere near them. Give that all up. There is a reason whole-house systems cost $30k, it is heating and cooling.

For a quick example, say you have a tiny 700 watt A/C unit. This represents half a normal small window A/C, or half a hairdryer. A 100Ah marine cell (basically a car battery that swaps maximum acid/lead contact area for thicker internal lead plates) from Wal-Mart ($100) has 100Ah, which translates to roughly 1200 watt hours. You do not want to run a wet cell like this below 50% or so; a fully-charged marine cell will run a unit like this for about 50 minutes. So, if you want to run it 10 hours a day off batteries, you will need 12 fully-chrged batteries, costing $1200 and weighting 700 pounds. You would also need a semi-sized trailer covered in panels to charge them. Oh, and the A/C compressor takes double the load when it starts up — which will tire the batteries out quickly, so expect that $1200 in batteries to be a yearly thing.

Now, the awesome: IT WORKS. I ran 30 feet of LEDs, a laptop, a small but nice stereo, a PoE wireless antenna, a wireless hub, iPhones and iPods, 18v DeWalt battery packs, a fan — plus whatever I am forgetting — off of 2 x 100W solar panels and 2 x 100Ah marine cells while boon docking in my camper for ten weeks.

To run a full system you will need a solar panel, an inverter, a battery, and a charge controller.

First you must go ahead and do all the math of your usage, because we are are still at the stage where we must all do all the math, and math is good, but when you are doing all the math to the third significant digit, and looking up the model of that rechargeable flashlight you like for its charging amperage requirements, maybe say screw it and start with half what works for my boon docking setup; one beefy panel, one solid battery. You can then add another panel later if your location or climate require it to keep the battery charged.

As to wiring, your charge controller will have connections that include a legend where to hook up your batteries, panels and inverter, so easy peasy there. See the link below for an example. I recommend spending the extra on an MPPT controller, which converts some of your extra juice (the 12V panel below can run almost 19V) that normally is dumped when charging into increased amperage of the charging current. Do the math of your expected load, it's possible you will want a 20A.

YOU WILL WANT TO DO THE MATH on wire sizes. There are calculators online. For your small setup, the important run is going to be between the battery and the charge controller. This is where the fires start. If you think you will EVER add another battery dig deep and wire for it. Also, fuse your system correcly, there is a schematic on the charge controller link below. Don't skip this, you can get the fuse holders and fuses at your local auto parts store.

For inverters, I feel better about everything by getting a well-respected pure sinewave unit. I run a Cotec 350W for the solar, and it seems bulletproof. I also run a Xantrex 600 in my 4Runner and it seems just as solid. You could save a ton by getting a cheap modified sinewave one and seeing if it meets your needs. Either way they will have outlets on them, so you don't need to wire it further.

Also, no wet cells inside the vehicle unless properly secured, sealed to the inside, and vented to the outside.

Solar panel:
http://www.amazon.com/RENOGY-Monocrystalline-Photovoltaic-Battery-Charging/dp/B009Z6CW7O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417553121&sr=8-1&keywords=100W+solar+panel

Charge controller (10A likely okay, do your math, I got the 20 amp)
http://www.amazon.com/Tracer1210RN-Solar-Charge-Controller-Regulator/dp/B008KWPGS6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417552788&sr=8-2&keywords=mppt+charge+controllers

Inverter:
http://www.amazon.com/COTEK-SK350-112-INVERTER-OUTLETS-CABLES/dp/B006W9IPA0

Totally get what you are aiming to do. Although I am older, I, too am in college and trying to defray costs. And, I'm in to vandwelling as a backup living plan and a way to travel cheap. Here are a few links that could help if you haven't already seen them:
About a guy that lived in a van at Duke University, interesting read, addresses a lot of the mental struggle: Walden on Wheels https://www.amazon.com/Walden-Wheels-Open-Road-Freedom-ebook/dp/B00B77UDWU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495889664&sr=8-1&keywords=walden+on+wheels
If you haven't seen this website, the forums have a ton of info on everything to do with living in a van/car/rv/whatever cheaply and comfortably: www.cheaprvliving.com
And, if you want an idea of a quick, cheap and easy van conversion complete with links to the stuff for it: http://www.vanlifecrisis.com/2015/09/the-320-1-hour-van-conversion.html
I found an older van for $900 a few months back. I'm doing a easy build. Back seats/bench went out. Wood platform for the bed across the back, will be ordering mattress foam to be cut down to fit from http://www.thefoamfactory.com/ Had a few storage bins with drawers to hold my stuff. Camping gear I already have is going in, stuff for cooking, heating, and ventilation. I blacked out the side windows the cheap way, cut out black poster board and put them up with sticky squares of Velcro on the side wells for easy removal, and the back and front areas will get black out curtains that can be closed for privacy.
I, too, tend to hole up and have tendencies towards agoraphobia. I like feeling like I have my "home" with me wherever I go, as this van is also my daily driver. Add homey touches inside to make it feel cozy. Drive out to a park to do your homework, it will be more relaxing. Eat fresher foods, just hit the grocery store more often. Good sleep is utmost important to pull this off, so make that the second utmost priority, mechanics first.
Best of luck!!!

This is a Norcold MRFT40 that's about 10 years old. It's built like a tank and is very spacious. I hear this is another edition of the Engel 34 qt fridger/freezer that retails for $875 new: https://www.amazon.com/Engel-Qt-Portable-Fridge-Freezer/dp/B00042JXKW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1527542170&sr=8-1&keywords=engel+34+qt

Both feature a highly efficient Sawafuji swing motor with one moving part that is supposed to be very efficient. It is super quiet.

I'm excited to not be chasing ice on my trip westward to Yellowstone, Grand Teton, Badland, Canylonlands, Arches, and more. :-)

I do have to order a new Engel DC cord for about $43 shipped. Still a great deal.

This will be going in my converted 2005 Toyota Sienna inspired by Element Van Life's build with a bed platform and cabinet system. I've also added a vinyl floor to cover the carpet and seat latches on the floor.

A friendly reminder to watch out for used DC fridges. I don't see them for sale too often.

(Links are not an endorsement, they provide a photo and may help you find the product locally. Some little bitch on this sub had a meltdown over that because she wanted to fix the issue today, and wanted to know what to buy locally. Apparently showing her a picture of what the product looked like so she could pick it up at the local bigbox hardware store is a crime against humanity.)

Q:How does one hook up a 20# just for use on a 2 burner Coleman stove?

• If needed, get an adapter to convert your old school white gas stove to propane. photo Using a propane adapter for a white gas stove really makes the stove a joy to use. But Coleman and others make propane only stoves, and you probably have that. White gas is pretty expensive now.
  
• Get a Bulk tank to disposable tank hose/adapter. photo
  
• If storing or using the gear inside a vehicle, I highly suggest a propane locker for the bulk tank. The locker is made so any leaks vent outside instead of into the living area. These are a fixture of full sized RVs. Trailer RVs usually mount the tanks outside too. Many people don't bother, but I'm worth it. Yes, I know a 20# BBQ tank locker takes up quite a bit of space.
  
  If you only use the propane for your stove and have a home base, you can get buy with a much smaller, approved refillable tank. photo The problem with full-timing with this is you can't use the propane exchange cages located at nearly every gas station, walmart, and hardware store. You must get it refilled in person or refill it yourself. (You will also go through the tiny tank quickly if you're heating your van)
  
  I have a home base, and my current setup is a tiny space. I use refilled disposable bottled propane for the stove and space heating. I keep the bulk tank at home. The heater is no longer sold but it's equivalent to the smallest buddy heater. photo I run it for 10 minutes before going to sleep or getting out of the sleeping bag, and for this use it's all I need. But then again I'm not trying to live like this full time.
  
  Q: Can you hook up a hot water heater to the 20# and not have to use electric?
  
  Maybe? I boil water in a pot and use an adapted weed sprayer to shower with. But I'm not full time.
  
  It seems hugely inconvenient to carry around a big propane canister just to lug it outside for my stove every morning, but the cost may be worth it, then?
  
  Yep. I cook on the tailgate when the weather is good. Like I said I refill the disposables before the trip and save a $1.50 each time. Might not be worth it to you.
  
  *I would never fill something like that on my own. Not gonna fuk with propane and blow myself up.**
  
  It requires some care, but it's easy. You just weigh the bottle when empty and write the weight of the tank itself on it with a black magic marker. When the tank is full, just make sure the total weight, minus the tare is less than 1 pound (or less than 12 ounces on some disposable cylinders.) They're actually hard to overfill but you need an adapter and a kitchen scale.
  

From my boyfriend:
See if this helps!

I looked into this for a while and came up with a solution I think is pretty good. I bought this antenna. It can be removed from it's mount so you don't have an antenna constantly sitting on your dash. I then run a 10 ft usb extension cable through the floor of my van back to a raspberry pi I have hard wired into my distribution panel using one of these.

The pi has another cheap 150mbps dongle connected which I use to talk with all my devices. Basically I shell into the pi, connect to an open wifi source, then the pi acts as a router/repeater which all my devices connect to. The antenna works just fine on it's own if you only want to connect one device, but my bf and I both like to be able to work from our respective computers. Hope that helps. EDIT: for added fun write a little shell script that tries commonly used passwords on locked connections :)

My PSA: Those links can be shortened a lot.

"I searched and didnt find any in depth threads featuring any products like these, https://www.google.com/shopping/product/10452086405530650786,
https://www.anker.com/deals/powerhouse2, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D5RVMAM. These seem like good options for vandwelling if you aren't trying to run a fridge/AC. Which I'm not. What do you guys think? For instance I'm trying to power this https://reverb.com/p/korg-minilogue-4-voice-analog-polyphonic-synthesizer for a few hours a day at most so I can practice. I have a few other similar keyboards as well. Thoughts?"

Most of the crap after a ? in a URL is extra stuff that's not needed, like link tracking and referrals. Trim everything after that and see if you get to the right page. It's a much friendlier link for your readers. Few people will care, but those that do will REALLY care. Thanks! :)

Here's the basic mods I went with for our Vandura. We wanted to keep it simple and get it done in a couple months. Since I work full-time, time was the major constraining factor. We only use ours for a weekend fun vehicle so your needs may be different. We like ours, but it's definitely not Instagram worthy. I'm assuming yours has the conversion setup inside (wood paneling etc.) so it should be similar

- Replace the factory valence and center lighting with LEDs. The stock lights are garbage and one of the valence lights shorted out with the previous owner and was a safety issue. We used multi-colored dimmable lights for the center ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ML5ZJQR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and simple LEDs for the valence ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). After install the valence lights are SUPER bright; in retrospect, I'd use just one strip for all three valence lights

- Remove the rear captains chairs and install vinyl flooring in the middle. We have an electrically driven sofa/bed in the back that we wanted to keep in case we need extra legal seating, so we only installed flooring in the middle portion of the van between the cab and rear sofa seating. We found some vinyl "planks" at Walmart for dirt cheap (~$20 for the whole area) but the adhesive they came with didn't work great, especially with drastic temp changes. I'd suggest going with single sheet vinyl or laminate or, at the very least, using liquid nails as a substitute adhesive.

- Built a counter space/storage cabinet. I just used basic sideboard plans found on the internet. This stores our aux battery, fuse block, inverter and gives some additional storage space

- Install a battery isolator, aux battery, fuse block, inverter etc. We went with the Battery Doctor isolator ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058SGDFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) because of the added ability to use the aux battery to supplement the starter battery in emergencies

- Install forced air ventilation. I didn't want to cut through the roof for a MaxxAir fan because we liked the lighting. Since the conversion van has 3 sets of sliding windows, we created a make-shift side vent fans out of 12V computer fans ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072NCYQRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). Three fans fit in each sliding window. Each fan is rated at 52CFM so (in theory) we get ~200-300CFM with two windows (eventually I'll get accurate measures with an anemometer just for curiosity's sake). Since we don't cook in the van and the van has multiple windows that open, this just helps the forced airflow to prevent condensation while sleeping.

- Upgraded the CRT TV to a flat screen ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X3VH4VK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). Side note: the TV remote IR frequency changes the color of the multi-color LEDs. Maybe you can get around this with a different LED setup. We just turn the TV on before the lights to get around it

- Wired the TV, vent fans, and center lights to the aux battery. We originally had the valence lights hooked to it too, but since they're so damn bright we never used them and I reconnected them to the starter battery.

- Eventually, I'll build a storage compartment in the back that also opens to a table out the back hatch.

- So far, we're happy with just a cooler between the cab chairs. If we eventually go to a 12V fridge, we'll probably need another battery which doesn't make economic sense for what we use the van for

Yes! I'm living in a 2003 Odyssey, so the generation before yours, but I would imagine my experience is still applicable.

I installed a Fantastic Vent this past winter. Pretty simple install once I stripped the inside. I'm not sure of the dimensions for the Maxfann, but the Fantastic Vent is about 14x14". The ceiling of the Odyssey dictates where you can install the vent because the only 14" square space is between the C and D pillars of the van frame.


I cut the hole in the ceiling using a jigsaw with a metal cutting blade. The cut took maybe 2 minutes. I secured the vent to the roof with self-tapping metal screws. Sealed it with butyl tap and self-leveling RV lap sealant.

I've done a couple hundred miles of highway driving since the install with no issues. It's also been through some pretty heavy rain in the PNW with no leaks.


Album: http://imgur.com/a/1W9QC

Hope this helps, ask any questions you want. I'm happy to help.

Im not sure on euro vehicles (maybe the large ford transit with bike carrier?), but there are a few good newbie guides out there. Bob Wells has a pretty good ebook that covers the basics
https://www.amazon.com/Live-RV-Debt-Travel-Freedom-ebook/dp/B008S129XY
His website cheaprvliving is a good resource too, if you dig through his articles and blogs you can basically glean all the info from the book too.

Thanks! I am a experiential graphic designer by trade so I've detailed a lot of signs for big things like stadiums, malls, etc. and I've worked with a lot of fabricators to make those signs a reality. Kind of just applied that here loosely. I've never done wood working before so I was on youtube a lot and consulting friends.

It's just a fan-tastic vent works pretty well for the money.

Not the answer you're looking for, but something I have found VERY useful given my height (6'5"). Not just in my Promaster, but my other car as well, I would always have to scrunch down to see stoplights .... very annoying and uncomfortable over time. This has made a HUGE difference:

LightInSight Specialized Windshield Lens: hhttps://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K31M554

I have a Promaster and I have found it to be reasonably comfortable to drive. I feel your pain. Best of luck in your search!

> Speaking of fans, do you have a link to the fantastic fan you're speaking of?

I didn't properly name the fan. It's a "Fan-Tastic Vent(tm)" In other words, it's actually the brand name not me calling a fan fantastic.

There are lots of models with options like auto rain sensing to close the vent, remote controls. I got a three speed, reversible, manual control. Works great. Quiet, and I've run it all night on low with no major impact on my battery. (yeah, I know that's not scientific. I've just never measured its current draw).

I got one basically like this:

http://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-Vent-ABS-LID-Create-/dp/B0027XAN78

I just got a goal zero yeti 400 and will be getting two additional batteries to daisy chain to it. Whole rig will be about $500 total and give me about 1200watts. Running a processor heavy macbook pro and editing video, so hoping I'll have enough juice to last a week or so without a recharge. Obviously have other devices too, but won't be running a fridge or anything too big, mostly computer, electronics and lights. Amazon ran a deal for $300 a couple weeks ago on the yeti400, so if you're on amazon, look out for their daily deals (down from $450). http://amzn.to/2r81ieC (#adlink) They're moving towards lithium, so guessing they'll be upgrading models soon, which might be why they're running deals. Review are pretty good, although some horror stories (like all products have...). But the alternatives out there are similar. I'm heading to Shenandoah for 4-5 days to be off power and will write about how things go in detail. I'm at www.thenomadexperiment.com if you want to watch there in a couple weeks for that article. Good luck!

Buy a DC powered mini fridge. Running an AC mini fridge takes more power and there is power loss by going through the inverter. A DC powered fridge can run as low as 30-40W. One like this.

If you drive enough (every day, an hour plus) an isolator to charge your battery will most likely be enough.

Since you are only planning on doing this for a short while, you don't need the nicest batteries. Costco has 160Ah deep-cycle lead acid batteries for less than $100. I'd reccomend one of those, maybe two. Remember, you can only discharge your batteries about 50%, so a 160Ah battery actually only gives you 80Ah of capacity. Also, the battery takes longer to charge the more charge it currently has, so the last 5-10% to top it off takes longer than the previous 5-10% etc.

I wouldn't use an electric heater, they are very inefficient. Without a more robust power/battery/charging solution you won't get much use out of it. Consider a propane heater and adequete ventilation. Something like this will provide more than enough heat for a space as small as an F150 bed.

For charging your laptop/phone/devices, you'll only need a small inverter. Remember that with a DC fridge you won't be running it off the inverter. I reccomend getting one 400W or smaller. The higher the Wattage on your inverter, the more power it wastes just by being on, so you want the smallest possible inverter for your needs.

F150's have pretty large engine bays. You may even be able to get away with putting your deep-cycle storage battery under the hood instead of using up space in your bed/living area for it.

I'd highly reccomend getting a small power bank to charge your phone and other small devices. You can plug the power bank into any wall outlet to charge it while you're at work, at a coffee shop, whatever. I have one that is 22,000mAh and I charge it while at work. With a full charge it will re-charge my phone enough times for me to use the phone 2-3 days without worry. With a 5 hour charge (a shift at work) it will charge my phone 1.5-2ish times. This reduces your reliance on your onboard electrical system in your truck, leaving more battery capacity reserved for running your fridge.

Also get LED some lights that run off DC power. It's a waste of energy to run lights off AC through your inverter.

Lastly, do a little math. Let's say you end up with a fridge that runs at 40W. 40W % 12V = 3.33A x 24hrs = 80Ah. Assuming you're running the fridge 24 hours a day you'd be using the full discharge capacity of your 160Ah battery every day, and that's without taking loss into account. I'm pretty sure those fridges will cycle on/off so it doesn't actually draw a full 40W at all times, but keep these things in mind. Make a plan based on how often you will drive, how fast your alternator charges your battery, and how often you plan on keeping the fridge on. I think you'd be crazy to use a standard mini fridge that draws 156W and runs of AC power.

Good luck have fun!

FUSE ALL THE THINGS!

You'll never go wrong putting more fuses in. Find what the item pulls, put in a fuse of just a touch over that amount. So if it pulls 13 amps of 12VDC, put in a 15A fuse in the positive (red) line going between the battery and that item. Do that for everything.

Get a fuse block. It makes it MUCH easier and looks prettier. :)

On the cheap: blackout curtains from WalMart and some heavy duty magnets would work for temporary attachment of a privacy curtain.

We use an $80 camping potty, and it doesn't smell if you add the enzyme to the collection tank. We deuce elsewhere, if at all possible...

CamCo Travel Toilet

Many people use a 5-gallon bucket with a trash bag in it. Make your business, twist it up tight, and drop in a trash can. You can even buy little tops that feel like a regular commode seat! 🚽

Shower: 3-gallon yard sprayer that pumps up for pressure, and it works GREAT!

Hot Water Shower

(We are in a van, so our back doors open up "barn-style" and it makes a perfect shower stall with a privacy curtain across them!)

The Ventline VP-543(Also known as the Ventline Vanair) is under 2.5 inches tall. I know it's 6-inch popup fan, but I think that's the smallest rooftop fan you can find. Of course that's not saying much when the low-profile Maxxair's are only 3 inches...

Another option is to have a super low profile vent(also called "scupper vents" and "canopy vents". Mostly found on australian websites) and attach a separate fan to the interior portion.

You're most welcome! I bought the following:

4x100W Panels

Panel Mounting

Solar Panel Connectors

Tool Crimper

Assembly Tool

Panel Connectors

Power Information

CTEK Charger

CTEK SmartPass

200ah AMG Battery

Fuse Block

300W Pure Sine Wave Inverter

LED Strip

Dometic 35 Fridge


I bought all these items with research into my solar needs and following the advice from here in the vandwelling subreddit and also information I gathered from Amazon. I am probably doing a bit of overkill on my solar setup but I thankfully have the money to do it and don't want to mess with adding anything later.

I will have to do research myself on how to combine the four panels into the battery but that will be a few weeks away so I haven't done much in that area. I do plan to buy 10GA wire from Lowes and use the crimping tool and connectors to form my own wiring harness so it will be clean looking. \

EDIT: Adding info.

Sweet, that fuse block is perfect. Then inverter appears to come with a good fuse holder and fuse, you can see it in the fourth photo on amazon link. Is the fuse holder you recommended better in some way?

I'm using these in XL 49"X 21". They work great. They go on both sides of the the window so you can roll it down to about 3/4 of the way down. Super simple and cheap and store small. Impossible to blowoff too since they are shut in the door. Sadly, XL doesn't seem available anymore. XL fits out 2014 Sienna perfect.

Car Side Window Sun Shade Sunshades for Baby Universal Fit 4 Package Away from Sun, Harmful UV Rays,Fits 99% Cars, Trucks and SUVs (2 Front+ 2 Rear)

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B074WPPRGV/

Thinking about getting this Camco toilet. Although I was also considering just doing the 5 gallon bucket with a trash bag and kitty litter. I like the Camco because the sealing bit seems to help reduce smell, being able to easily dump into toilets is great, and I think I can theoretically rig the flushing mechanism into some kind of low powered bidet, although I'll live even if I can't do that.

I know my body enough to know that I can't reasonably expect myself to be able to separate solid and liquid waste or sit once in the morning and be done with it. So I feel like the Camco might fit my needs better. If anyone also has thoughts on the tank size that'd be good, I feel like the smaller one would be easier to walk into a normal restroom with and dump it, while the bigger would mean less frequent dumping...I've never like measured my waste so I have 0 idea on how long or short that is.

Bob Wells' How to Live in a Car, Van or RV. Good overview and only $3.

For boondocking I liked:
Sunny Skye's RV Boondocking Basics: Living Well on the Road Less Graveled and pretty much anything by Difley.

The only real value in that van is the GoalZero battery which goes for nearly $500. The van itself is only worth 2-4k. The conversion is weak. Looks like it's lacking real insulation and it doesn't have any of the usual conversion features (sink, fan, fridge, solar, etc...). For $10k you could do way better OP.

The ambulance you posted is a much, much better deal. I drive the same van (non-ambulance) from 1985. If you read up on those 6.9L engines, they are some of the most reliable engines ever made and that one doesn't even have 100k miles (although, the odometer rolls over at 99,999 so you might want to double check that because I've never seen an ambulance decommissioned with such few miles).

I'm not a TV person, but the Jensen 12vdc 19" is popular with some RVers I know. I've seen some movies and shows on them and was pretty surprised that they were 12vdc and as affordable as they are.

I would recommend Bob Wells' "How to Live in a Car, Van or RV". It has the basic, nuts-and-bolts info you need to get out there.

Remember you don't need a sweet craftsman conversion to travel, save money and have adventure. That's just the (expensive) icing on the cake. Starting simply is far better than not starting at all, and lets you add what you really need and nothing you don't.

https://www.amazon.com/Live-RV-Debt-Travel-Freedom-ebook/dp/B008S129XY

I purchased this book and it was an amazing resource. I had 0 knowledge/experience in anything more complex than switching a lightbulb and it helped me safely and confidently design and build out the electrical for my van

Do you have a recommendation for the inverter? A part of the appeal of the Krieger was that there is an LED readout showing the input and output, and the dual USB ports. The closest thing I can find is the same inverter in 1100 watts.

I think the roof rack is the way to go for securing the panel as well. That will likely be the way I go. Im thinking of going with crossbars as Id like to put in a rooftop fan vent as well, as soon as I get the guts to cut into the ceiling.

As far as the charge controller, do you think the low cost of a PWM controller is worth the power efficiency offered by an MPPT controller at a higher cost? This is just based on things Ive read in my research.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B012ZOI44C/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

These are awesome, fairly bright and a nice warm color, low power draw too.

What about Neodymium magnets? we use them all over our van to hold stuff.

Breakdown in middle of nowhere: $70 will get you a tow to the nearest shop willing and able to fix it, unlimited miles. Get good sam roadside assistance. They will not hesitate to call out a flatbed and tow you across a whole state through the mountains at no extra cost, I hear.



Predators are easy to deal with if you have the right tools. A taser pulse makes a tiny lady much more powerful than any common predator out there and is unrestricted in 45 states. Only costs $350 and you can conceal it without a license. You will probably never need it but personally every day I have my defense tools nearby is another day they are used - because they give me peace of mind knowing I can deal with whatever comes up - Similar to the rational of having a fire extinguisher. You'll probably never need it, vandwelling is not dangerous and I don't mean to construe it as such. But you'll probably never need a fire extinguisher, too. Probably. But it would deal with one issue I see you have expressed - worry.



For the portapotty, I chose this one after a lot of research: https://www.amazon.com/Camco-41545-Travel-Toilet-gallon/dp/B018LBYCT4

Put the whole thing inside of a sealed container and your worries are over. It can dump into any old regular toilet you find (parks, outhouse pits, gas stations with an unlocked bathroom out back, etc).



For the heat, put a folded tarp on your roof when stationary and not in the city. If you can decouple the tarp from the roof that will work any better. A roof rack is handy for this. Safari vans have been using this low tech since forever. If your roof isn't white you should paint it so.



There are mobile internet solutions better than verizon, do some searching here.


If you really want AC, you can have it, for 1/3 gallon per hour or more, with a generator. A solution that works for many. Another solution is relocating to the climate.


You can bring your garden with you. Google "Dashboard herb garden".

I have a 1st generation Odyssey with one of these on the roof. It works reasonably well, but people notice it. I've had a couple of LEOs ask me what it was. I think my next build will have something like this mounted in the floor. It also flows better than the one I have now.

Best thing you can do is something, I spent years whining about how I need to meet a mentor, or figure out how to start out. I then pulled myself out of my pity pile, stopped wasting my time on stupid shit and got down to business. The bottom two are good places to start.

1. Managing 12volts, a good book I am reading which helps highlight electrical systems pretty well.
   
   
2. Handybobsolar very good blog with a lot of knowledge of solar. Read it a few times and you'll start to understand it. Don't expect yourself to understand it on the first walk through.
   
   
   
   

amazon.com volt regulator

I just found this on Amazon. Would putting this between the panel and the devices help? Or should I just throw away the dream of powering these devices for cheap and save up for a battery and charge controller?

> the frankenfridge

I like the term frankenfridge! I just got my freezer all hooked up a few days ago. Something that I didn't realize at first was that some inverters aren't easy to set up with the relay. I originally got this Krieger one but it doesn't automatically turn back on when the relay gives it power (so the relay would turn off the inverter/cut its' power when it got below 38°, but when it went back above 38° the relay would switch but the inverter wouldn't turn on unless the power button was physically hit). Ended up returning that one and getting this simple Madpower one that just has a physical on/off rocker switch (no other buttons or remote switches) and it works flawlessly. Just something to keep in mind, wish I had realized before I started!

These two were recommended. I like to look at how sailors work things out. Very simple and dependable, vibration resistant, waterproof setups. Certainly can be $$$$ but it is kind of setting a standard for durability. Marine solar, Marine 12 volt TV. Or for example, ice chests with 6-8" of XPS foam are common instead of 12 volt fridge. Works /Won't break.

These two were recommended:

Weems & Plath The 12 Volt Doctor's Practical Handbook 5th Edition

https://www.amazon.com/Weems-Plath-Doctors-Practical-Handbook/dp/1878797131


Managing 12 Volts: How to Upgrade, Operate, and Troubleshoot 12 Volt Electrical Systems 2 Updated Edition

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0964738627?ref%5F=sr%5F1%5F1&qid=1482876085&sr=8-1&keywords=Managing%2012%20Volts%3A%20How%20to%20Upgrade%2C%20Operate%2C%20and%20Troubleshoot%2012%20Volt%20Electrical%20Systems&pldnSite=1

We're getting ready to install some/most of our electrical setup. The plan is to charge the house battery via shore and alternator, with the option to add solar in the future. Are these essentially the only charging components I would need? Does the Ctek replace the charge controller? I just found out about it recently.

Samlex Smart Charger (Shore Power)

Ctek D250SA (Alternator/Solar)

Here you go!

RV Boat Recessed Ceiling Light 4 Pack Acegoo Super Slim LED Panel Light DC 12V 3W Full Aluminum Downlights, Warm White (Silver) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B012ZOI44C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tfOQybKENJ2DE

I'm doing exactly this, and I've decided on these two devices...

CTEK D250S

This can server as your alternator to Battery bank charger, as well as your MPPT controller for Solar, its basically a two in one product for the isolator and solar charge controller. /u/brutimus also uses this, and when I asked them the other day, they said they liked it and its working well.

AIMS 1000W Inverter-Charger

This inverter is a beast. It works as a AC to DC 3-stage smart charger, 1000W inverter, AC-passthrough (so that when you are hooked up to AC, you can just use it like normal without draining battery), and has lots of other nice features. There is one feature where if you are out away from an AC hookup and have a generator, once your batteries are drained, it can send a signal to the generator to turn on, keeping your power going, but only after your batteries have been depleted.

The secret magic fridge you'd need is an efficient DC freezer like the one I have, which draws about 25 watts and runs 10-50% of the time depending on temps:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00042JXKW

In my builds the fridge is the biggest overall power draw. Trying to run an AC fridge costs more in extra panels+batteries than buying a DC fridge.

I personally thought this one linked was overkill. I purchased the mr buddy mini, had a 100 sq ft coverage area.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001CFRF7I/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
And the reviews say they are very tip-able, but I thought that was way off base. I think they are pretty sturdy.

It's a small circular vent fan: https://www.amazon.com/Ventline-VP-543-Smoke-Roof-Vent/dp/B00407CK5W

It's over my shower area where I'll need a vent for the propane tankless hot water heater and help dry out the shower

I put a fuse between the panels/charge controller and the charge controller/battery. I used this fuse holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000THTBZO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_cyhozb0Q7812D

Also, it may be worth while to pick up a fuse block that way there you can easily add additional 12v stuff without messing with the battery https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_vChozbH1TGQ27

feel free to PM me/reply if you have any additional questions

Fantastic Vent for his roof.

https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-Vent-ABS-LID-Create/dp/B0027XAN78/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1480386811&sr=1-1&keywords=fantastic+vent

I'm nearly finished w/ an audiobook (I can send to you for free if you don't have an audible account already) .

But there was a section close to the end here that really kind of brought that perspective into focus.

https://www.amazon.com/Walden-Wheels-Open-Road-Freedom-ebook/dp/B00B77UDWU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525449719&sr=8-1&keywords=walden+on+wheels+by+ken+ilgunas

You can look into these.. http://amzn.to/2qlqu0h Not sure how tall they are but seems like a smaller option.

I am using these round flush mount LED fixtures. I have seen numerous other builds with them as well. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B012ZOI44C/ref=ya_aw_oh_bia_dp?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I am also using some warm led strip and red led strip in a few places

This is a good book:

http://www.amazon.com/Managing-12-Volts-Troubleshoot-Electrical/dp/0964738627

Lost a huge reply so I'll just say this:

I have this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LBCVL4/

Downsides: expensive, 20A charging limit

Upsides: MPPT controller, smart charging, can add on the SMARTPASS for 80A more of charging

Panel I got on sale:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07BMNGVV3/

If you want the cheap option, search the sub for isolator. I don't recommend them since they don't charge batteries properly.

There was a book written about the authors experiences. Would that interest you, I could lookup my history

Edit: No longer mobile and I found it. Walden on wheels https://www.amazon.com/Walden-Wheels-Open-Road-Freedom-ebook/dp/B00B77UDWU/

Confirmed. Here is the link to it at Amazon:
https://smile.amazon.com/Walden-Wheels-Open-Road-Freedom-ebook/dp/B00B77UDWU/

I haven't purchased or used it, but this one is cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0027XAN78/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3C40WVWALRSCI&coliid=I21GXH27DG2453

https://www.amazon.com/acegoo-Recessed-Ceiling-Aluminum-Downlights/dp/B012ZOI44C?th=1

I have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Fan-Tastic-Vent-ABS-LID-Create/dp/B0027XAN78/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=fantastic+fan&qid=1551384781&s=gateway&sr=8-2

If I get to the point where I get cold under my quilt I'm gonna get one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-5025-Blade/dp/B000THQ0CQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498570433&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+block

Buy this, it's what you neeed. Get solar panels, 2 batteries, and this.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005LBCVL4/ref=ox_sc_mini_detail?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

You still have to pay close attention to the battery use. If you run down the second battery and don't get it charged right away then it soon needs replacement. Now that I have added a fridge I got a low voltage disconnect

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EQRL22C/

With two batteries you need either a fat short low resistance wire or a DC-DC charger like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005LBCVL4/

No problem. If that one is too big, I recommend the Little Buddy. Same manufacturer, just in a small package.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001CFRF7I#Ask

This one? I can't figure out if it goes lower than my current one's lowest setting