(Part 2) Best products from r/videography

First post here, I've basicly spent the last couple of days researching/buying gear around your price point. I already possessed a Zoom H1, but since you can use your phone for that purpose, I'd say we're about in the same boat.

I'd personally recommend you to check out four primary options. If the newest model is too pricey, it might be worthwhile to check out the older versions.

1. Panasonic FZ300: Great Zoom, 4k video at the lowest possible price point afaik, great usability, decent stabilization, external mic input, flipable screen in all directions, decent built in mic, DSLR.
   Downside: Bulky.
   Honestly, I'm confident that this is probably the best camera out there for video right now, at least at its price point. However, if portability is a must, this one simply doesn't cut it.
   
2. Panasonic G7: Similar deal to the FZ300. I didn't find too many differences overall though. 4K, external mic, decent stabilization etc. Less zoom capabilities though. Also, it is more compact than the FZ300. It's a mirrorless camera, but it's also a bit more pricey than the FZ300. If size is a factor, this is a better choice. Also stills will be better with this one.
   
3. Sony RX100 ii: Great camera which does everything you wouldn't expect from this size. Very good image and video quality for its price point and unbeatable portability. However, no interchangeable lenses and due to its size, lacking duration on video due to overheating hazards. If you're looking to shoot for extended periods, the larger the better and panasonic is definitely your go-to. However if you prefer ease of use and a compact feel. This is the way to go.
   
4. Sony A5100: My personal choice at the end of the day. It's a very similar story to the RX100ii, but as opposed to the RX, this one has all the latest from sony. Massive sensor which means great low light performance and overall very high quality footage. New XAVC S codec for higher quality video. Both of these at a reasonable price point while enabling the use of interchangable lenses. Also, I just think this baby is way more charming than the RX series. However, it's definitely known to overheat over longer duration video shooting, it has no external mic input, no in built stabilization, no EVF and no shoe to mount stuff on. I didn't find these to be capable of weighing up to its potential though, especially with a pancake lens. I've got great portability, one of the best low light and video cameras at the price point. I actually figured out that I can bypass all of the problems it faces by buying myself an external recording device. Sure, this costs as much as the camera itself, but the benefits the camera offers are unbeatable at the price point, and if I enjoy myself enough up to a point where I want to invest more, I can just remove all the negatives and stay at the top in terms of quality AND portability, since the external recorder is equally portable.
   
   I haven't gone over the full details for all of them, but if any of them interest you in particular, just find some reviews and you'll get a good idea of what they're all about. Also, some are a bit over your budget, but I don't know how tight your finances are so I figured I'd just give you my take.
   
   Lastly, definitely don't forget audio as mentioned in the thread already. A lav mic will get your far since you can use it with the panasonics or your phone.
   
   Hope this has been more than just a rant. Good luck!
   

As far as specs go, the only difference is in price and in variable aperture. Variable aperture is something I work with on a daily basis but would be a great thing to not have to deal with. IMO, just an annoyance. Light will likely not come into play because you already can just switch to your 55 f/1.8 for low-light. Other than that, I think it comes down to focal length. Do you want to have the 18-30 range or will you not miss it because you already usually shoot at 55?

I would not consider it "easy" to get good slider shots but also not hard. It largely depends on your slider and experience with the slider. Gentle hand + smooth slider = great shots. I think that it would be better to invest in good lenses, a good tripod, good mics, and good lights before getting a slider as you can make an equally good video without a slider.

Yes, here are some cheaper options. However, I should note that the mic I recommended has a "+20dB" setting that can allow you to turn down the pre-amps in your camera or recorder and get better, cleaner audio. Most other mics do not have the feature. The mic I recommended has a bunch of younger brothers. The rode videomic that I have. Great mic, no boost setting, a bit bigger than I would like. The rode videomic go, no battery required mic, pretty cheap. Some people say it is no better than just for scratch audio and barely better than on-board mics, I can't speak to the claims. I'm not trying to scare you away from it, just letting you know what is out there. The rode videomic micro, a super small mic, more intended for small cameras or smartphones, I don't know how good the audio quality is. Outside of the Rode brand family, there is also the Shure LensHopper that is often said to rival the videomic pro. It comes in two different versions, one with a built-in audio recorder, and one without.

Let me know what else I can help with!

You've gotten some good advice here, but there are some basics you may be missing.

> I used a Canon DSLR for one sketch and the quality was cool and all but the audio was awful...

That's because these camera generally have noisy preamplifiers and automatic gain control (and because you probably used the camera's internal microphone). Those are the three worst things that can happen to your soundtrack. You can fix them by buying a camera with better preamps, and/or using manual gain control and/or by getting an external mic and putting it on a boom closer to your subject/talent.

> ...it did a cool thing where something was in focus and things in the background were sort of blurry but I don't know if that's something all cameras do or a special feature...

That was because DSLRs have relatively large sensors (much larger than your cell phone). There is a complex optical explanation for this, but, suffice it to say, the larger the sensor, the easier it is to get the "blurry background" effect - also called "shallow depth of field" or "shallow DOF".

All of that said, you can put a nice little studio together with a $1000 budget:

Camera and Support

• [Panasonic G7 - $597.99] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0106BG35S/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0106BG35S&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  
• [Amazon Basics Video Tripod w Fluid Head - $74.99] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CEH7VG8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00CEH7VG8&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) - I own the Ravelli AVTP Professional - which has the same fluid head as this tripod - and it pans and tilts very smoothly
  
  Sound
  
  
• [Rode VideoMic Studio Boom Kit - $199] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ISKJJ5Q/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00ISKJJ5Q&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20) ([Here] (http://wistia.com/library/choosing-a-microphone) is why you need a boom)
  
  Studio Lighting and Backdrop:
  
  
• [LimoStudio 3 light continuous lighting kit - $49.50] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005FHZ2SI/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=9325&creativeASIN=B005FHZ2SI&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  For background, you might want to consider green photographic paper instead of stands, crossbars and unwieldy sheets of muslin, as seen in [this video from Wistia] (http://wistia.com/learning/diy-office-video-studio):
  
  
• [Savage 9' x 36' background paper for chromakey - $66.80] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000B782NO/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B000B782NO&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  
• [Duck Tape - chromakey green - $4.99] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002TOL43M/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B002TOL43M&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20)
  
  For less than $1000, you'll be able to produce well-lit 4K content with decent sound and a stable image with smooth pans and tilts.
  
  You will also have a basic chromakey studio with which to add special effects.
  
  Here are some examples of what this camera can do:
  
  Narrative
  
  
• [Stars] (https://vimeo.com/137538379)
  
  Documentary
  
  
• [Fotograf Anna Ejemo] (https://vimeo.com/141640603)
  
  
• [Indianapolis 500 in 4K] (http://vimeo.com/130565657)
  
  Travel/Nature
  
  
• [Bahamas] (https://vimeo.com/136657243)
  
  
• [Away From The City ~ Panasonic G7 [4K] 42.5mm F1.7] (http://vimeo.com/132028570)
  
  Timelapse
  
  
• [Clouds Time-lapse] (https://vimeo.com/139023972)
  
  Timelapse and Slow Motion
  
  
• [Oostende Koerse 2015] (https://vimeo.com/138394549) (shot with its big brother, the Panasonic GH4)
  
  And here are a few examples from YouTube (please watch at 2160p and your monitor's highest resolution):
  
  
• [Voigtlander Nokton 10.5mm F0.95 Lens - Examples on a Panasonic G7 [4K]] (https://youtu.be/zLIc0n9K8Pk)
  
  
• [LUMIX DMC-G7 Sample Video in 4K by Colin Witherill] (https://youtu.be/fZllpp_y8Is)
  
  
• [Panasonic Lumix G7 / G70 Launch - 4K - 4KPhoto Modes] (http://vimeo.com/128536456) (shot in photo/video mode - each frame is an 8MP still photo)
  
  It's a pretty good still camera too: https://www.flickr.com/groups/panasonic-lumix-g7/pool/
  
  In my view, this is the best still/video, large sensor interchangeable lens camera you can buy below $1000 and a very good value for your money.
  
  Hope this is helpful, good luck with your skits and best of the holidays!
  
  

Honestly. I have been where you are right now.

If you want to take this as seriously as possible and become a producer, the thing you need to invest in most is audio.

Cameras will come and go, but a great mic and recorder will go a long way to making your work so much better. I still use my t3i's in productions with my GH4. The t3i is an amazing little camera and you have the nifty figty which is the only lens I shot on for years.

If you want to get a really nice camera that will be a great investment I would suggest a combo of camera + a Tascam recorder.

I have this recorder and LOVE it.

and this Camera would be a great combo for you with the Tascam 70d.

I have the GH4 and it's amazing and the panasonic fz1000 is crazy good with an amazing lens.

Good luck!

Hey, I took a quick look at that video and it doesn't seem like it would be too difficult to match that style of production. It looks like he might be using two cameras to film (one wide shot for him speaking to the camera, one lowered and tighter shot focused on the action on the table) but you could replicate this by using one camera with a zoom lens and a tripod that tilts down.

Affiliate links below

As for budget camera that fits this niche, I would recommend getting a refurbished Canon 80D (https://amzn.to/2EiB0OP). There's nothing flashy about this camera but it is very user friendly and offers a lot of good video features in an affordable body. It's over your $700 camera budget but not by far. If that budget is a hard limit then I would recommend going down to the Canon SL2 (https://amzn.to/2ElJ40Z) which offers similar features but generally lower quality and one area that it really lacks compared to the 80D is the autofocus.

For both of these you would want to upgrade out of the kit lens to something that opens to a wider aperture because the style you are emulating uses a lot of out of focus elements. I would suggest eventually going to the Sigma 18-35 1.8 (https://amzn.to/2SyGZE6) but try to find a used one because buying used lenses is a great way to save money.

For lighting, I recommend just getting one good light to start, a reflector/bounce board kit and watching some tutorials. You can do a lot with 1 light and a good understanding of the basics.

Something like this for the light: (https://amzn.to/2SyGZE6)
Cheap light stand: (https://amzn.to/2H7nnoy)
Reflector kit: (https://amzn.to/2Syi6si)

So all in to start you would be looking at about $1100-1200 and if you want to upgrade down the road the best place to do that would be in high quality lenses

Hi /u/porkpie666 - and welcome back to world of digital video! I started out with a Canon T2i 4 years ago, but quickly moved on to the GH2, then the GH3, the BMPCC and now the GH4.

What I have learned in the past 4 years is to avoid Canon cameras below $5000. Their poor downscaling algorithms make them susceptible to a phenomenon called "moire" - the inability to resolve patterned objects, such as shingled roofs or patterned fabrics. Here are a couple of examples in side-by-side comparisons between the 60D and the GH2:

http://vimeo.com/20565849

http://vimeo.com/21962491

The 60D's replacement, the 70D, has the same problem:

http://vimeo.com/73429088

The T2i/T3i/60D/7D also have a 12 minute continuous recording limit. If you are shooting a concert, speech, theatrical play, long interview or other event, the camera will shut down and have to be restarted (even with Magic Lantern auto restart). This can be problematic in the middle of a song or a speech.

Coming from camcorders, I was also surprised that my Canon DSLR had no video viewfinder - forcing me to use the LCD for composition and critical focus. This was fine indoors, but a real challenge outdoors in bright sunlight. Many Canon shooters, like BMPCC shooters, buy LCD viewfinders (LCDVFs) or external electronic viewfinders (EVFs) to make their cameras usable outdoors.

You should also know that the T2i/T3i/60D/7D have zero video autofocus capability, no built-in headphone jack and are limited to a maximum frame rate of 1080/30p (no Canon camera has 1080/60p for in-camera slow motion below the $12,000 Canon 1D C).

In your budget range, the [$495 BMPCC] (http://www.adorama.com/BMCCP.html?KBID=66297) will give you the absolute best image quality (best dynamic range, most gradeable images) - but, as others have said, it is a real hassle to shoot with (it needs a lot of extra batteries or external power - it also needs an LCDVF or EVF for outdoor work).

If I was starting all over with $1000 today, and didn't want to be bothered with the hassle of shooting with the BMPCC, I would get a [new Panasonic GH3 body like this one for $721.71] (http://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?icep_ff3=2&pub=5575034783&toolid=10001&campid=5337235943&customid=&icep_item=251602221946&ipn=psmain&icep_vectorid=229466&kwid=902099&mtid=824&kw=lg) plus a [$169 Sigma 19mm f2.8 lens] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00BPZCYK8/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00BPZCYK8&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20), and, if you can afford it, a [$209 Sigma 60mm f2.8] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CMRTVFE/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00CMRTVFE&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20).

The GH2 is a great camera, but it lacks 1080/60p and a headphone jack - and is limited to the AVCHD codec.

The GH3 records to AVCHD .MTS and to Quicktime .MOV, which is a lot easier to deal with in post. It also records at frame rates up to 1080/60p for in-camera slow motion - and bit rates up to 50mbps IPB and 72mbps All-Intra, so there's no need for a hack.

It is also an all-metal splashproof camera and is much more robust than the plastic GH2.

Here is what this camera can do:

Music Video:

http://vimeo.com/53834993

Narrative:

http://vimeo.com/49420579

Documentary:

http://vimeo.com/66940018

There are many more examples on Andrew Reid's GH3 channel over on Vimeo: https://vimeo.com/groups/gh3

It's a pretty good still camera too:

https://www.flickr.com/groups/gh3/pool/

https://www.flickr.com/groups/2042242@N25/pool/

In my view, the GH3 is the best still/video camera you can buy below $1000.

Hope this is helpful and good luck with your decision!

Bill

I've worked at a theater for a number of years, and still do occasionally.

I wouldn't go with the A6300. Theater lighting is generally pretty bright so you don't need a good low light camera. Additionally, you want something with longer battery life if you filming long plays. I think you'll be happier with a GH5 or a GH4.

For years, I've been using the the GH4 with this metabones speedbooster and the Canon 24-105 for stage plays. I usually throw a gopro up in the rafters for my wideshot. I actually was able to get away with one camera shoots for awhile now as long as I operated it safely, but lately I've been using the GH5 with the 24-105 as my A-Cam and the GH4 with the 12-35 as my B-Cam.

The 24-105 is an absolute joy to use when filming plays. It's par-focal which is incredibly handy, and you don't really need something faster than f/4 with stage lighting.

As far as audio, I have two cheap condensor mics like these mounted above the stage with cables running into the booth. When I come in to record, I plug in a tascam recorder like this one.

I wouldn't get the NTG-2. It's only useful if you can get it really close to your subjects. If you want a shotgun mic I would really reccomend getting the MKE 600

The theater I have a client has numerous fresnels laying all over the place, so I have ample lighting if needed. I usually just use whatever is installed currently.

This Tripod has been my #1 choice for a long time now, and has filmed many plays. I prefer it to ones that cost 4 times as much. I upgraded the fluid head to a Manfrotto 502 which is a huge improvement.

Hope this helps, feel free to message me about anything in particular.

Tascam user here, DR-40 and DR-60D, though I've been wanting to upgrade to the DR-70D. It's like a slightly better 60D.

Anyway, what you'll need is three cables to cover your bases, there's no telling what board the DJ has:

1. RCA to XLR (I use a stereo set, just to be safe)
   
2. Your standard XLR cable (Guitar Center has cheap ones since you don't have time for Amazon)
   
3. Basic 1/4 inch cable (again, Guitar Center will have these cheap)
   
   My RCA has only been used a couple of times, but when they were, I was glad they were in my work box/bag. You never know what someone else is bringing, so there are all the ports you'll have to contend with.
   
   Now, the unit itself. You want to use the XLR ports, either 1 or both 1&2 depending on what cables you get and the DJ's output. I wouldn't worry about stereo here, he's likely working in mono, so we'll focus on input 1. I'm using my DR-60D for refference, but Tascam generally uses similar menu systems for all of their devices, so it should be close.
   
   First, go into the [Menu] and select [Rec Mode]. Use the scroll wheel to select and click on [Rec Mode], then scroll to [Dual Mono] and click the wheel. Make sure the source is Ch 1. What Dual Recording does is it records the same file twice, but one has reduced volume. I have mine set to -12dB. This has saved my ass more than once, especially on mics I have set up that I can't access once the ceremony has started.
   
   Back in the [Menu], select [Input Setting], and make sure the settings are up for Ch 1. Set gain to Med. Make sure to get a level test before recording and leaving it be, you may need to switch it to Low.
   
   Next, make sure the input for Ch1 is set to Mic Input. My unit has a switch for this, but yours doesn't seem to, so it's probably in the menu, maybe in [Input Settings]. Mic is for general inputs (like a sound board or a lav mic receiver), Line is for things like amps (I don't use Line much), and Mic+Phantom is for mics that need power, like shotgun mics or voice-over mics.
   
   You should be set to record. MAKE SURE THE RECORD LIGHT IS SOLID. MOST TASCAM MODELS ALLOW FOR PRE-RECORD, WHERE YOU CAN MONITOR AND THE LIGHT BLINKS. IF THE TIMECODE IS NOT MOVING FORWARD AND THE LIGHT ISN'T SOLID, IT ISN'T RECORDING. Next, flip the [Hold] switch on the side so no one accidentally stops the recording (it's the same as a hold switch on an iPod, restricts input). You can still adjust levels while in [Hold] mode, since you have dials, but you won't be able to cut or make adjustments. I find it handy to idiot-proof it, or make sure my hand doesn't slip.
   
   Have fun, and use your H1 as a backup ambient mic. Always have one or two backups. And get a Rode VideoMic pro if you already haven't, saved my ass on more than one wedding.

1. For a camera get a Panasonic Lumix GH5 body, that way you get super good video quality at 4k. Couple this with a 12-35mm f2.8 constant aperture lens for sharp video and good lower light performance.
   
   
2. For your audio, you can do a lav kit like this. It comes with a Zoom h4n and a lav. You can stick this in a pocket and record the lav, or you can put it with the camera and use the built in microphones to record the audio. If you want an on camera mic, the Rode Video Mic Pro gives good quality audio, but keep your expectations realistic if you try and record something far away (not the best solution).
   
   
3. You could use a gimbal like this. They're easier to use than the glidecams and they perform better. That camera and lens is fairly light so it shouldn't be a problem.
   
   
4. I use a Davis & Sanford provista tripod. The build quality is fantastic, and it has a standard 75mm bowl mount that you can change the head on in the future.
   
   
5. You'll probably want a fairly high powered light system to light a large area. Aputure kits are good quality and I would go with those.

That's a photography tripod, it might have a few issues. The ball head that it uses might come loose or move under the leverage of a moving camera, and photography tripods aren't normally as rigid as videography ones so you may find it twists or flexes while you're moving the camera.

Ideally a tripod with a mid or floor spreader will give you the best ridgity, but even something like the Amazon Basics tripod would be good enough - you don't need a top-of-the-line fluid head for a slider!

What's also important with sliders is having multiple supports instead of a single support. You'll find that even the best made sliders can bend or tip at either extreme end if used on a tripod alone.

We normally use at least one light stand as additional support. For small sliders, a tripod on one end and a stand on the other is normally good enough. For bigger ones, tripod in the middle and a stand on both ends is often needed.

Most sliders have 1/4" tripod screws drilled all along the bottom, so we use a Manfrotto camera bracket to affix the stands to the tripod.

Thanks for your answer !

GH4 is definitely the way to go.
I forgot to say that i also owned this speedbooster-like that i used for my GH2.
The main concern that i have is witch lens is good for landscape, i saw some people said that the SLR MAGIC 12mm T1.6​ is very good, and i'm also afraid that a non-zoom lens is not versatile when you are hiking in the moutains or climbing.

I'm not against buying a Metabones Speedbooster XL, my travel friend use a 6D for photography, if we can share lens. I saw the SIGMA ART 18-35 F1.8​.

It's giving me headaches !

Actually it's Bonne chance ! (or you are a huge fan of Taken)

Hi /u/Cortexian0 - You don't have to spend that much money for high quality video. For [less than $900 you can get the Ultra High Definition (UHD) "4K" Panasonic FZ1000] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KOUIBZW/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B00KOUIBZW&linkCode=as2&tag=battleforthew-20). This camera has 4 times the resolution of the CX900 or 7D Mark II and the same 1" sized sensor as the CX900. It is also a great slow motion camera - recording at up to 1080/120p. The CX900 and 7D Mark II are limited to 1080/60p.

You can "crop" a 4K picture to 1080p in the editing suite to make it look like you're shooting with more than one camera - or you can "zoom" to make it look like you have a camera operator - as in this example (please watch at your monitor's highest resolution):

http://youtu.be/TV3mTlTL07g

In addition to its superior resolution, this camera has bulletproof autofocus and is right in the middle of your price range.

Here are a couple more examples of what it can do:

http://youtu.be/MivSKRpLKAI

http://vimeo.com/103562158

This is an amazing 4K video camera for the price. The only downsides are that it lacks a headphone jack and, like the 7D Mark II, it is limited to 30 minutes of continuous recording before you have to hit the record button again to re-start the shot (so if you need hours of continuous recording, this isn't the right camera).

Good luck!