Best products from r/vintagecomputing

I see yours has a hard drive. That's really really cool--definitely not the usual 5155 fare.

You can do serial connectivity, which is easy and well documented, or you can do the slightly less well documented but way funnier and more future-proof method.

I used this to get my 5150 online.

1. Obtain an Ethernet controller like the NE2000--something that doesn't care too much about the extra lines on the 16-bit portion of the ISA bus. I have personally had best luck with the 3Com Etherlink series, 3C509C to be specific. If this is not an option, there exists Xircom ethernet adapters that plug into a parallel port and you can use one of those instead, though that isn't as fun as an integrated solution.
   
   
2. Install the packet drivers, set your IRQs and I/O ports accordingly. This may prove difficult if you have no way of getting files to it to start with. If you can't write 360K disks, you can attempt to transmit them over serial, which is another task in itself.
   
   
3. Set up mTCP (http://brutman.com/mTCP/) to use the packet driver.
   
   You now have a 5155 that can talk over ethernet. If you connect an external wired to wifi ethernet bridge like this one perhaps you can have a luggable computer with wi-fi access!
   
   Disclosure that I love doing ridiculous things like that--making an Apple II talk to the internet is just as much fun--so please excuse the bias.
   
   Serial transmission will be easier and more era-appropriate if that's what you're after, but ethernet gives you access to the Internet as well as being able to transmit files to it over HTTP or FTP, which is majorly convenient
   

> and I most definitely do not like the idea of laboriously tapping away at a sheet of glass only to have my best efforts chewed by potatocorrect.

Turn off auto-correction?

> I'm looking for the device quietly hiding out there that implements a self-contained pocketable-yet-usable keyboard with builtin memory. I hope this device exists.

Yeah, it's called a blackberry. They suck pretty hard, except for the fact that they have physical keyboards. They are, contrary to popular belief, still produced.

Not vintage: http://us.blackberry.com/smartphones/blackberry-passport.html?lid=us:bb:devices:blackberrypassport&lpos=us:bb:devices

> I'm predominantly interested soley in the ability to easily type while I'm away from my computer, wherever I happen to be. This means I need something I can cram into my pocket, although I will note that the pockets I generally take out with me are fairly roomy, and I and don't mind (and I expect) that this device would make good use of them.

I would say get a Surface, but they're a bit big for pockets. OTOH, the typing experience if fine if you get the type cover.

Alternately, might I suggest getting an old Palm device? Graffiti beats every other text input method I've encountered for small devices. Effective, fast, doesn't require weird peripherals.

If you're even looking at something Dana sized, just get a Surface and a type cover. It's smaller in every dimension and more capable in all respects.

Alternately, they do make SCH-P9000-like folding keyboards for Android devices. http://www.amazon.com/Perixx-PERIBOARD-805L-Bluetooth-Folding-Keyboard/dp/B00BU4OV50

That kind of is a reverse-direction from the way I want to convert, but thanks. It got me going down the right road I think.

I ordered this CF > IDE converter, and a SanDisk 'SDCFB-32' 32MB Compact Flash drive. From what I saw it seems to do True IDE mode. According to this chart in the manual, I think I should have all the LBA / Geometry information I need.

Hopefully. Maybe.

Think it has a chance of working?

Do your VICs have a 2-pin power connector (next to the power switch) or a round power connector with a bunch of pins (up to 7)? If the latter, they use the same style of power supply as the C64. These power supplies eventually fail and when they do, they fry the chips in the computer. You can either get a "saver" device that goes between the power supply and the machine, or you can get a power supply that's safe. (If it's the 2-pin kind you have, they're safe.)

For software, you can get a SD2IEC, and SD card reader that (roughly) emulates a Commodore floppy drive. It'll work on other Commodore 8-bits as well, if you eventually want to try other machines.

For the VIC-20, though, if you just want to get a bunch of games then a great/easy option is to get the Penultimate+ cartridge. It includes more than 70 games, and also has some other useful stuff like a RAM expander. (I have no connection to TFW8B, other than being a satisfied customer.)

If you don't have a joystick, any Commodore or Atari joystick or paddles should work. They are easy to find on eBay. Don't use a Sega Genesis/Megadrive controller -- they work until they fry chips.

The cable with a box and red jack sounds like it may be the RF modulator box. This converts the audio and composite video from from video port into a signal analog TV tuners can use (usually on channel 3). If that's what it is, you won't need it with the monitor. For the monitor you'll probably need a cable that has a DIN connector on one end, and 2 or more RCS connectors on the other end. If you don't have one, you can get one on Amazon. With that cable the black (not red or white) is audio and the yellow is composite video when plugged into a VIC-20.

Is there a reason something like this would not work?https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-Keyboard-Converter-Adapter-110934/dp/B00IACID2C/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=keyboard+adapter&qid=1571761993&sr=8-3

You might also need a AT Keyboard to PS/2 Adapter, but that seems like a pretty simple solution that would not require any mods.

You're looking at a serial terminal. It'll show information when it receives serial data. That temrinal has two RS-232 ports on the back. You'll need to wire that to something that is sending and accepting RS232 serial data.

You can use your PC or mac or the like) to do this if you like, by using a USB/Serial port adapter (like this: https://www.amazon.com/SIIG-JU-CB1S12-S3-USB-Serial-Adapter/dp/B000FOL6QI ) - you'll need a DB25/DB9 adapter, also available on amazon.

You can also wire that to a raspberry pi or linux machine and use it as a console for that. Serial terminals only require 3 pins to work (TX, RX, and GND), so you can wire that to your RPi.

One thing you might want to try is putting hte terminal into setup mode. I found a PDF on the net that says hitting SHIFT and SELECT at the same time on the terminal will put it in setup mode.

Try that, and see if you can see menus and stuff.

The characters you're seeing are almost certainly 'line noise'. Basically noise on the serial interface. It shows the terminal is working :)

If you get a setup screen, post a picture!

Not only do they still make the labels, they're available on Amazon with Prime shipping: https://www.amazon.com/Kroy-Model-2227501-Black-Clear/dp/B00006IARJ/

Wish I could say the same for a black ink cartridge for my Thinkjet

Edit: Wow, I just noticed it has font cartridges. Neat!

Like the others have said, I'd recommend just getting an adapter on eBay or Amazon or the like. They're pretty cheap indeed. ~$6

https://www.amazon.com/SF-Cable-Keyboard-Adapter-MiniDin6/dp/B0016RTMQE

PS/2 and AT are protocol-wise the same thing, just with smaller connectors.

Found these nice little stands on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009K4VUME/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Turns out pretty well: https://1drv.ms/i/s!AkZsD_BFouGYh-tvrl6Ats0t5J1VTQ

Looking forward to getting more in the collection!

Alright. Here's the deal.

https://imgur.com/a/fLPcC

Point 1: This is an old AT DIN keyboard connector. It is physically compatible with PS/2 keyboards. You can get adapters to connect to any PS/2 keyboard. You could also connect to some sort of active USB to PS/2 converter, but it's much, much easier to just find an old PS/2 keyboard.

I mean, you could find a really old AT keyboard with the right plug on it and use that, but it's much easier to just get a PS/2 keyboard.

Point 2: This is a PS/2 port. Use a PS/2 mouse or one of those little green USB to PS/2 mouse adapters.
You cannot plug a keyboard into this.

The 25 pin connector should not be touched. It's likely serial (just from its position beside a PS/2 connector), which technically could be used for a mouse, but you have a PS/2 connector, so why would you? It also may be parallel, too. in any case, you have PS/2. Don't touch it.

Alternative: Any 486-or-so era laptop, using an adapter to run a CompactFlash card in lieu of the hard drive. Depending on the model you choose, it could easily be removed (or you could always cut a slot in the case to allow easy removal) and just slap the card in a reader on your desktop.

http://www.amazon.com/Syba-Connectivity-44-pin-Compact-Adapter/dp/B0036DDXUM for example.

Alternatively, something that supports a PCMCIA or onboard Ethernet could theoretically let you pass the files over the network, but a lot of machines and operating systems would be too primitive to handle the necessary software.

At college, I brought in a few 486 laptops, running either OS/2 3.0 or DOS + GEM, for note-taking. THe DOS ones performed better.

The first thing I'd check is to make sure that the jumpers in the back are configured correctly. If I'm remembering correctly, JA and S1 should be jumpered.

The default firmware for the Goteks isn't the greatest. My recommendation would be to put the open-source FlashFloppy firmware onto the device.

That said, Goteks don't generally include the header pins that are required in order to program the new firmware. This means that you'd need to be comfortable with a soldering iron so that you can attach a set of pins.

My recommendation is to use the USB programming method to update the firmware. Other than a soldering iron and solder, you'd need to have the following items:

• USB A to A Male Cable
  
• Male 0.1" Header Pins
  
• Female to Female Jumper Wires
  
  With all of that available, you would follow the directions here to flash the firmware.
  
  I can help with other questions on that process if you do want to go that route.

Like the other commenter mentioned, a usb adapter is fantastic for these things. I kept something like https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S in my bag for a long time when I was frequently doing various recovery things; I don't really anymore but it's still come in handy at home for projects. It's super-cheap and covers basically any hard drive you're going to encounter in the wild. The power supply is a nice touch too.

You either use a Macintosh monitor with a DA-15 (aka DB-15) connector (usually the cable is integrated into the monitor) or a common Mac-VGA adapter and a regular VGA monitor.

Generally CRTs or old LCD monitors in 4:3 or 5:4 are your best bet. Macintosh land has some funny resolutions and refresh rates afaik.

One of these should do the trick.


P.S.
http://www.codesrc.com/mediawiki/index.php/Macintosh_VGA

If I remember correctly, the 28.8k - 36k modem sound was the screeching but when 56k came out, you would hear the “bong” noise at the end of the screeching. And I think 56k always maxed out at like 51 - 52k.

There was the US robotics modem that was the gold standard. And it looks like they still make them!

https://www.amazon.com/U-S-Robotics-005686-03-External-Modem/dp/B00001RMEB

I have stacks of the usrobotics v.everything modems. The very best for reliability, it's the gold standard your thinking of


https://www.amazon.com/Courier-Everything-Analog-Modem-us-3CP3453/dp/B00006BA2H

I've actually seen and used that setup before.

There is a PS/2 connector next to the DB-25 serial port. It will only work with a mouse. If you open up the case you should find that top slot isn't actually a PCI or ISA card, but a specialized riser card designed for that motherboard.

For the keyboard, you will need an adapter that lets you plug a PS/2 keyboard into the AT connector (found just above the DB-25 serial port). It's a cheap and simple electrical adapter as the protocal is 100% compatable with PS/2, looks like you can still find them on amazon.

I can't imagine that IDE port not supporting a 2nd drive. Just get an adapter like this with an older IDE slimdrive. I bet it would work. https://www.amazon.com/Small-PCB-Slimline-Slim-50-Pin-Adapter/dp/B003NVTDCO/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=slim+40+pin+IDE&qid=1571784997&s=pc&sr=1-3-catcorr

https://www.amazon.com/AGPtek-Drive-Adapter-Converter-External/dp/B00BIE996S

This should let you copy files to the existing drive. If you need a slightly (laugh) more moden HDD to use the seagate st-225 works allegedly.