Best products from r/voroncorexy

http://imgur.com/3DQENT5

Came out really nice. I printed them in PETG but that's just for testing. If I was to use this for any significant amount of time I'd reprint them in at least ABS but preferably something like ePC or Bridge.

I've ran into a few issues already:

1. belt alignment hole on one side of the main carriage is un-usable (not a big deal and fixable)
   
2. electromagnet holes need a relief cut (like the front bearing retainer) as they are a press fit and removing them will require a hammer
   
3. electromagnet holes need a slot on the top for the cables to exit (I cut these with a file)
   
4. the biggest issue. Looks like /u/fabrice974 designed it with magnet pockets on both sides which doesn't work (the solenoid is metal and therefore magnetic). If you look at the original design it looks like on the side where the solenoid actually grabs there is some sort of round metal plate (he doesn't mention it anywhere but if you look at the design there's a pocket for it) that it's actually grabbing on to. We need something similar here.
   
   The electromagnets I got where these
   They were the only ones I could find on Amazon that are 20x15 but are 25N and after leaving them running for about 2 hours they were a toasty 78c.
   
   I've ordered some of these which are 15x15 so a little more compact and 20N like the original design so hopefully will be a bit cooler. After I get those in I'll experiment and try to find something easily obtainable at the hardware store as a grab point (metal washer or the sort)
   
   I also have some ideas on making the main carriage a bit more compact (save as much X as possible) as well as possible active cooling for the solenoids.
   

Don't know if there is a good list, though a few things are mentioned at the bottom of the unofficial V2 BOM. but I'll do my best to say what I used for my V2:

Metric Hex screw drivers: I picked up bondhus 10686 for this build, and it served me well.

Ferrule crimper: Something similar to this ( Mine is actually This guy here., but I'm sure I didn't pay anywhere near that much)

wire stripper: something else I've had forever, but something along these lines

un-insulated terminal crimper: Engineer PA-09 served me very well

Insulated terminal crimper: something else I've had far too long to have the branding. Mine look a lot like these though.

And then it's down to really normal stuff, that you probably already have around: normal screw drivers (mostly phillips), precision screw drivers, scissors, box cutter.

You're bound to want a multimeter for something, at some point.

Oh. And I cut my plexiglas panels on the table saw, since I have one. That's certainly not necessary though. Lots of people doing just fine with scribe cutters like this

You'll notice I didn't include any drill bits or taps. Sorry, I went with the pre-cut, pre-tapped Misumi framing, so I didn't DO any cutting or tapping. I can tell you though, if you're tapping your own, all your taps will be for M5 x 0.8 threaded screws.

Printed at 60mm/s with PLA+ from ESUN: http://amzn.com/B01EKFV4RS
E3D v6 Hotend with 0.4 nozzle and the VORON Flexstruder

Quality is way beyond what I have ever been able to accomplish before, all sides are SUPER flat. This printer is going to go stratospheric when the kits are available. This is easily as good or better then $3k printers and I haven't even spent time tuning anything other than the E steps.

Kudos /u/russiancatfood for spending the time developing and releasing this design!

Very nice and clean!

Before you heat the bed and set the adhesive, I'd peel it off, clean everything with isopropyl alcohol (the good industrial stuff) and attempt to re-adhere the PEI. If you got yours from Amazon, you should have spare sheets of it.

I rolled on 3M onto the bed first, using an empty wine bottle to drive the bubbles out. Then I trimmed the adhesive and carefully peeled off the other side. Next, I bowed the PEI a bit, lined up the 2 corners, and started rolling it on, using a bottle as a pressure roller. Worked out pretty good.

Also...

http://imgur.com/FgHEkyF

Many options here!

Personally I've used this heat shield tape which is meant for reflecting heat but only ever took it to about 70C. Don't know if it'll unglue at 100C. Did a pretty decent job, making my bed heat up faster and stay warm longer while cycling the heater less. I also used this tape on my hot end before the silicone condoms were out but the heat was softening the adhesive, and I had to use kapton tape to secure it. Also worked reasonably well.

I probably bought them from AliExpress since they're cheaper there but you can easily find them on amazon if you want them sooner than later, ebay, or pretty much anywhere that sells printer parts.. easy way is to search 'e3d v6 push fitting' or 'e3d v6 Bowden fitting'.. just remember you'll need to have m3 bolts that are a little longer and you need to print the part they screw into that's in the voron1.5 extras folder IIRC

Yeah it's a little large, it is 24"^3 but gives clearance for the top and the side for filament spool changes. I am surprised how warm it gets even without using active heat.

I bought 5, 1/4"x 24"x24" sheets, cut one side of the back panel to 23 1/2" so that the top and front panels would cover the edge.

Here are some more detailed pics.

These are the lights that I used, inserted through the upper Z rod supports.

Got my spring steel from Amazon. My PEI also came from Amazon, but I wanted to get it from a seller with more hits than misses.

You might be asking the wrong guy here, but having used Flashforge, Raise3d and E3d v6 hotends previously, the mosquito is far and away my darling favorite. I don't know if it's "worth it" but I would not print without it at this point.

I don't really have anything more to add than what /u/Yonkiman said, this looks like a wiring issue to me as well. If the temperature came right back up to 225C or was otherwise random then I would suspect the thermistor, but the drop off & subsequent slow rise look like a heater issue to me.

On your graph there is a slight irregularity in the middle which is also suspicious (even if it is not enough to generate a thermal fault).

If you suspect the power supply, before replacing it you can hook up a multimeter to your VIN on the RAMPS so you can ensure the voltages are consistent under load (or install one of those meters more permanently).

BTW getting a UPS on the printer is a good idea, so you can filter out the power fluctuations, and in case of an outage you can choose to finish the current print or abort it without jamming your hotend (since the hotend fan will keep running).

Have you played around much with different springs as far as how much force is needed? For example, would this spring be close enough to work? It's the same dimensions, but a bit stronger spring force. My concern is finding the balance between spring force here vs. not compressing the bed level springs when probing.

I got really tired of those all plastic ones and picked up these off of Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IB81IHG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are spring loaded too, so no need for clips or anything to keep the bowden nice and tight in there.

Here is the mobile version of your link