Best products from r/watercooling

First, you need to check to see what model number you have for the Sapphire cards. I have two Sapphire Dual-X cards (11197-03-40g) and they do not make full cover waterblocks for them as they are non-reference. I use these.

That drive bay pump/res combo is nice but dual pumps are not necessary. If you like it and want it then by all means get it but just letting you know it is a little much for your application.

>Should i get 2 Rads?

Yes I would recommend it. In your case I would do a 240 or 280 in the front and a 240 or 280 up top. To cool your CPU and two GPU's you need a minimum of 360 radiator space. Your case cannot accommodate one 360 radiator (I believe). Personally, I would go with the 240 radiator up top and in the front. They are a lot more fan choices in the 120mm category than the 140mm category.
>Which fans can you recommend? Or can i even use my Fractal ones? (they are all 140mm)

You will need to change your fans as those are designed for your case. Fans with static pressure are used for radiators. If you go with 280 radiators, I would suggest this or this. If you need 120mm fans, there are a ton to choose from but I am partial to these

>Which fittings should i use?

Your choice completely. Use either barbs or compression fittings. Both get the job done. Compression fittings look nicer but they cost more. It is entirely a personal preference.

>What Tubes would make most sense (im not getting the sizes really :/)?

This is again a personal choice. Tubing size really makes little difference in actual temperatures. The most common size is 3/8 X 5/8 or 1/2 X 3/4. This numbering is 3/8 ID (inner diameter) X 5/8 OD (outer diameter). Based on the size of the tubing will determine what size fittings you need. These numbers need to match. Just remember that the thicker the tubing, the more rigid it will be and harder for tight bends.

>Do i want to have backplates for the GPUs or are they purely aesthetic?

Purely aesthetic. However, in some cases I have seen video cards sag or bend and backplates can help strengthen the cards.

>If i only get one rad, would it be more wise to top or front mount it?

I would advise against one radiator but if you did get one, I would put it in the front.

>Is a push-pull configuration alot more beneficial?

Although it is the most optimal configuration it really is not going to be a "game changer" in terms of temperature differences. Generally push-pull>push>pull but this can vary on the loop placement, the case, the components, etc. At most you may see a 3-5 degree difference among the different combinations and that is not going to make much difference for the bottom line.

Any pump worth its salt can handle those rads and blocks. The pump won't limit you here.

If you've got the extra rad, I would use it. I've got that AlphaCool rad... it's pretty nice. I appreciate the multiple ports, which make it easy to setup either a drain or fill line (depending on how you orient the rad). It can handle the load... but the temps will be higher than you might like. A second rad will help you reject more heat for sure to push the temps down, and/or keep your fan speeds lower. Copper properly cleaned will last forever... different application but a copper roof will go at lease a century. Get the Mayhem's Blitz Phase I kit... it's a very nice kit and even comes with the goggles and nitrile gloves. I would use it on your old rad AND your brand new AlphaCool rad (they aren't necessarily flushed that well at the factory).

13mm OD hard tubing will not restrict your flow too much and is fine from a practical perspective. It looks "skinny" though, so for aesthetics a lot of people use 16mm. Up to you. Almost every show build you see, "Rig of the Month", etc. use 16mm OD because it generally looks beefier, which most people like.

I would recommend getting one of the bending kits to help you out, particularly if you're going to build multiple hardline builds... Monsoon sells a nice hardline kit for under $100... AlphaCool's is top notch but runs over $200.

https://www.amazon.com/Monsoon-Hardline-Mandrel-Kit-Tubing/dp/B00K1O4GVE

https://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/tools/acrylic-tube-tools/21984/alphacool-eiskoffer-professional-bending-measuring-kit

https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/Alphacool/Eiskoffer_Professional/

Note that I will see this as a 5000$ build, some stuff that is fine for 2000$ has no place in a 5000$ in my opinion. So not all of this applies to a normal build.

>2 x LOGISY​S CLK12UV ​12 inch Du​al UV Cold​ Cathode L​ight Kit

These kits are horrible... just buy some cablemod LED strips (they have uv ones too but I personally dont like uv stuff).

>EK-XTOP DD​C 3.2 PWM ​Elite - Pl​exi (incl.​ pump)

NO. NO. NO. NEVER EVER buy a DDC pump if you are going for SUCH a build. A D5 pump is much better and a lot more quiet. Sure they are both good pumps but mainly the DDC pump costs a little bit less and is smaller, something you really dont care about in this build.

> 2 x PrimoC​hill 1/2in​. Rigid PE​TG Tube – ​4 x 36in. ​– Clear

Add 3 more, you will need it

>Corsair K95 RGB Wired Gaming Keyboard

They released a new version, the K95 platinum

>NZXT Sentry Mix 2 Fan Controller

Meh... just let your mainboard control your fans and use these fan controllers that just take one PWM input and multiply it like this one https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00OD7MO6E

>Corsair SP120 57.2 CFM 120mm Fan

>Corsair Air Series SP120 High Performance Edition (2-Pack) 62.7 CFM 120mm Fans

Nope to both, buy the new Corsair ML fans, they are much better.

>LG WH14NS40 Blu-Ray/DVD/CD Writer

If you really want one...

>Thermaltake Core X9 ATX Desktop Case

Kinda dont like the case but that is personal preference

>EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 8GB Superclocked Gaming ACX 3.0 Video Card (2-Way SLI)

Normally SLI is not really worth it. Right now I would just go for a titan XP. I know they cost a lot buy a single titan XP is a much better experience compared to 2x 1080. Would be a different story with 2x 1080ti.

>Seagate Barracuda 3TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

I remember 4TB drives being more reliable but that could be wrong

>Crucial MX300 1.1TB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive

Only Samsung 960evo or 960pro. That Crucial stuff has nothing to do in this build and it is a SATA SSD, so about 6x slower compared to the 960 pro and it probably wont even work with your mainboard.

>Intel Core i7-7700K 4.2GHz Quad-Core Processor

Not worth it. Go for x99 and an i7 6800k. You get 2 cores more and a much better mainboard for only 200€? or so more. This is change by A LOT once Ryzen comes out and Intel will probably answer with lower prices and maybe new x99 stuff. Definitely wait until Ryzen comes out and dont even bother with anything that has 4 cores.

While Intels 8 and 10 core CPUs are really overpriced their 6 core CPU is not that bad.

TLDR; normally not bad but if you are going for a 5000$ build you have to change some things...

Yay, welcome to the club! I've been enjoying my first rigid tube build for a few weeks now and had thoughts. But /u/victory_zero (no angle fitting fist bump) covered the most important ones.

I'll add giving some thought to filling, like draining. I filled by taking the lid off the res and feeding in length of soft tubing with a funnel on the end. It works, sure, but having to pop the lid on and off and hoping the tube stays is kind of annoying. I'd recommend getting an extra soft compression fitting so that you can unscrew the plug in the top of the res lid and screw in your fill tube. (Also maybe get a nice metal plug with the allen wrench head to replace the included plastic plug the lid ships with.. they immediately deform when you try to give them enough torque to stop leaking, they are the worst.)

I'd maybe worry just a bit about putting three good fans on a single mobo header with that splitter. Nice boards will be fine, but some crummy boards only supply a few watts to the header. You can get powered PWM splitters that have a power plug and then split the pwm signal amongst the fans just like the cables. They're not the cheapest, but they're also not outrageous.. and tend to have more headers for the inevitable expansion to more radiators :). Something like https://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-8W-PWM-SPL-ST-Way-PWM-Splitter-Sata/dp/B00IF6R4C8.

Good luck!

You can use this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IF6R4C8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Attach it to your CPU fan header and use your motherboard bios or software to setup the fan curve. It's a dirt cheap and effective solution but it is based on CPU temperature which will fluctuate far more than your water temperature.

If you are looking for a better solution that is actually based on your water temperature, the best on the market option is the Aquacomputer aquaero 5 LT. You can use that to control your fans and pump speed based on water temperature - catch is that you will need to also buy a PWM D5 pump if you want to control that as well and water temperature sensor. It's what I wanted to do initially but the cost of that compared to simply using my motherboard drove me away.

Controller:
http://www.aquatuning.us/air-cooling/controllers/11311/aquacomputer-aquaero-5-lt-usb-fan-controller?sPartner=googleshoppingusa&gclid=Cj0KEQjwv467BRCbkMvs5O3kioUBEiQAGDZHL8HAUCVDTEIE6w681TsBfOAHe0dyftv9LRqm5mAp3GQaAgCA8P8HAQ

Sensor:
http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/monitoring/temperature-sensor/6650/aquacomputer-temperatursensor-inline-g1/4-fuer-aquaero-aquastream-xt-und-aquaduct

PWM Pump:
http://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/pumps/d5-series/d5-pumps/19181/aquacomputer-d5-pumpenmechanik-mit-pwm-eingang-und-tachosignal

They also have flow sensors and coolant level sensors but I cannot figure out why you'd really care to have those given their cost.

In short, I suggest trying the motherboard CPU method and if that makes you unhappy, cough up the money for their temriture sensor and controller. I personally consider the PWM pump overkill for the P5 case with it's massive radiator, but I can certainly see the value for other setups that need to maximize the cooling performance of a smaller radiator.

Ok, the biggest problem you're going to run into on this is the lack of a CPU block. I say that simply because it rules out what I would normally suggest, which is either an all-in-one that allows for future expansion or a kit. You won't find any of either of those without a CPU block so you'll have to build from scratch. Not a problem really, just more complicated.

Not knowing what kind of GPU you have I'm going to have to use an example.

Koolance VID-NX980 water block - Excellent block, full coverage, $92

With your budget I would definitely go with a full-cover block rather than a universal simply for better cooling. If you get a block made to fit your card you can't go wrong with Koolance, EK, Aquacomputer or Watercool.

Hardware Labs Black Ice SR2 420mm mutliport radiator - On the pricey side but absolutely top of the line. Two of these will cool anything you can throw at them, and the port options make layout a lot easier. If the price is too high, Hardware Labs has a lot of options in smaller sizes with smaller price tags and they all cool fantastically.

Watercool D5 Vario 12-volt pump with Heatkiller D5 top.

Fittings will be determined by your choice of soft or rigid tubing. If you're planning to add the CPU later I'd go with soft tubing for simplicity. I'd suggest Monsoon Free Center compression fittings if you're looking for color, they have quite a few. If color isn't your thing, really any name-brand compression fitting that fits your tubing will work fine.

My personal favorite radiator fans are Phanteks High Static Pressure Fans. A lot of others swear by Gentle Typhoons also. I've never tried them but too many people like them for them not to be excellent fans.

On the reservoir, make sure you account for any fittings and or tubing runs at the top and that you will be easily able to fill your res. You don't want your reservoir to be a "tight" fit". It's a PIA. ~2-3 inches of clearance should be fine. Enough to get your hand in there.

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Pump brand doesn't matter. D5 or DDC, PWM or no PWM. The aquacomputer pump is only worthwhile if you have an Aquaero.

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Thermal probes are pretty much all the same thing. They look like this. The main application for them is measuring air temperature (intake, case chamber, exhaust, etc). Does that really mean or impact anything? Not really. But like I said, why not.

-
Same deal with flow sensors. Do you need to know what the flow rate of your water cooled computer is? Not really. It's a nice to have. Here are a couple options.

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Water temp sensors are, IMO, the only "sensor" that matters. There are two types, plug and in line. Plugs are essentially caps that have a little temp sensor inside. In line are basically a female to male extension fitting with a thermal sensor. Choose whichever one is easiest to integrate into your loop. This all actually has a point... you want to set your fan speed to your water temp (vs CPU and or GPU). Water is what the rads/fans are cooling. The cooler the water, the cooler your processors. Also, water temp isn't prone to drastic jumps in temperature, so your fans will speed up and slow down more slowly... which is quieter.

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Outside of all of this, the biggest piece of advice I can give (comes from my own mistakes), is make your life easy. The biggest point of friction for this is filling and draining your loop. Your pump should be as close to the lowest point of your loop as possible. Another often over looked "make it easy" step is putting your front rad ports towards the bottom of your case so that radiator can drain with gravity (vs flipping your case upside down). I am presently suffering this mistake.

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Other tips include using a PWM fan hub for your fans so you can route all your fan cables to one spot in the case (cable management) and so you only have to use 1 PWM header on your mobo to control a set of fans (If you have different brand/speed fans, they should have their own hub and mobo PWM header... IE group like fans together).

> Can this controller drive 2 pumps and 9 fans from a single molex power connector

No lol. You're going to want to use powered PWM splitters for the fans since the controller will only drive 4 of them by itself. So just get one of those splitters and run 6 fans off the splitter, and 3 fans off the controller.

The pumps are more complicated since the pump header on aquaero is proprietary to aqua computer, called aquabus. So you need to use their aquabus pumps.

You can run the newer EK pumps (D5 G2) off of the aquaero fan header if you would prefer. But you must make sure you get newer stock since the G2 motors only started shipping about a year ago. Older EK D5 pumps will not work on the fan headers nor the aquabus headers.

But if you're spending all this money I would just spend the extra $50-100 on the aquabus pumps, and then just get the EK top, or whatever dual top you would prefer, or just connect them with hose.

> Are my sensors correct for the size of tubing I'm using?

Tubing size doesn't really matter for this, the sensors are just G1/4 which is the industry standard thread size for blocks, res, pumps, rad, and fittings.

> Is there a more "in-stock" brand with more U.S. exposure I should be considering as well?

aquaero is the best solution for this particularly if you want a standalone cooling unit which yours will be. Performance PCs offers good US stock and customer service. I have placed many complicated orders with them and they've never let me down.

I have the following items for sale:

Timestamps

Item | Price | Description
---------|----------|----------
CORSAIR M65 Pro RGB | $46 Shipped | Brand new and still sealed
WD My Net Switch - 8 Port Gigabit Ethernet Network Switch | $16 Shipped | Only used for a week.
Generic Wireless Bluetooth Keyboard | $13 Shipped | BNIB.
EK-Supremacy EVO X99 - Nickel Plexi | $55 shipped | BNIB CPU Cooler. Does not include TIM / thermal grease: EK-TIM Ectotherm (1g)
Caselabs Mercury S8 Mounting Plate, Black, New | $9 shipped | NA.
Caselabs Mercury Flex-Bay Cover, Double Ventilated, New | $9.5 shipped |
ModRight Xtreme Super Large Anti-Static Mod-Mat Work and Assembly | $52 local pick up | I love this mat. However, I do not have space for it and have only used it once since I purchased it. This is for local pick up only.
Bitspower Dual / Single D5 Top Upgrade Kit 150 (Black POM Cap) | $32 shipped | Brand new, unused. It includes BP-WTZPC1-BK x 1PCS, BP-WTZACT150-CL x 1PCS, BP-DSRAP-BK x 1PCS and BP-DSBRA-MBK x 1Set.
Bitspower Mod Kit Support Bracket | $13 | Brand new.

Please reply to post before sending a PM. Local pick up is available at Buffalo Grove, 60089. Let me know if you have any questions. Moreover, prices are negotiable. Thanks for looking.

Interesting info, can you give a link or something for these comparisons. I am planning for my first loop when the 1080ti comes out and i will be using 140mm fans and rads ( a 420mm and a 280mm cooling only my 6700k @ 4.6 and the card ). Out of all the fans out there, the corsair sp 120 are by far the best looking ones for me, however there aren't at 140mm, only the led ones. If however there isn't really that much of a difference, i may as well get the af 140mm from corsair.

EDIT: Almost forgot, great job with the pc, it looks great

How about this?
Skip Ek rads, get two of these Black ice 360 gts: http://www.performance-pcs.com/radiators/black-ice-nemesis-360gts-ultra-stealth-u-flow-low-profile-radiator-black-carbon.html
Pick up 3 sets of twin packs of sp120 quiet editions: https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-SP120-Quiet-Twin-Pack/dp/B007RESFR2/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1495725662&sr=8-5&keywords=120mm+sp120
Get a supremacy mx: http://www.performance-pcs.com/ek-supremacy-mx-cpu-waterblock-acetal.html
That alone will get you better cooling and save you 35 dollars before the 10% off
Secondly, if you want to save more, go with barbs instead of compression fittings and use zip ties.
third, order from performance-pcs during the sale and save an extra 10%.
And yes, you can fit both of those rads in a define S, I have dual 360s in mine.
Edit: typo

Thanks for the tips!

When people say they bleed for 24 hours, does that mean they leave the pump on for 24 hours (with system not powered on). And every once in a while, you turn off the pump, rock the case a bit and power the pump back on? Basically doing this during the leak test? At what pump speed (or does it even matter)?

I went with EK slim radiators because EK has a sale this weekend. I have heard that HW Labs has better radiators, but EK's are still decent, right?

Unfortunately, the case has already been decided. If anything, side panels can come off during heavy use. Besides, for regular use it should be okay. I had an NZXT H440 which is a case people claimed had terrible airflow but for my purposes, it's been fine (and it had the Noctua fans).

If I got a sensor, I'd probably get this. Color matches my cabling and fittings. I'd probably replace one of my reservoir's plugs with this sensor. Though, with a decent fan curve and fan hysteresis, fans based on CPU temps can't be that bad, right? I'm trying to avoid the sensor since I'd rather use my fan controller, unless there is a way to hook it up to my fan controller which is a Grid+ V3.

I'll probably go with the W_PUMP+ header, even though it's in an awkward spot right i the middle of my board.

Nice system you got there. Polish website, so are you Polish because I am, haha.

The new corsair HD 120s look sick and offer great static pressure but... cost a kidney. :/ As for a fan controller, I would highly recommend the silverstone pwm fan controller ( Amazon ) and software like speedfan to control the rpms. Jayztwocents has a good tutorial on the software as it is a bit confusing at first. Best of luck!

Parts list looks good, but I would add a drainage port. Comes in handy if you need to drain your loop. Another thing I would add is this hex socket if you already don't have one. It's for taking the stock cooler off the 1080 and for $4 it's worth it. See this post.

Sketch looks good. A DDC pump will have no problem with that loop. You'll need two compression fittings for each component, and maybe two more for a drainage port.

For me, bending PETG was hard as fuck. I am a handy person and it was my third watercooled build, but I could just not get it right. I ended up using some angled fittings. Some people don't have any issues but that was my experience. Your tubing runs look good.

You have plenty of rad space and your components will stay super cool even at low RPM. I have used this splitter for multiple builds and it works perfectly. You'll be able to run everything at around 25% speed and still stay cool.

Absolutely. My first and current CPU loop cost exactly $300 in fact (pics here: http://imgur.com/a/mBGae)

The following is exactly what I bought for my very first custom loop, and it's working great so far.


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005T01B54/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006097HEC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Boom. $300.

EDIT: I would highly recommend that pump/res combo. It's easy, powerful, and relatively cheap. Also if you're not planning on adding a GPU to the loop, you could just go with a 240mm RAD which would save you a few dollars. And the XSPC Raystorm is a cheap CPU block with good performance. Honestly just straight up copying my build would probably be a good idea - but you can change the color scheme as you please.

I think the easiest (although most expensive) method is to use a PWM fan hub, and all PWM fans.

I've used this SilverStone hub for all of my builds, both water and air.

I set it up so that every fan is connected to that hub, and the hub is connected to the CPU fan header on my motherboard.

Pros:

• Easiest method of controlling fans. Just adjust through BIOS, or fan control software. It will auto adjust fan speed based on internal temps.
  
  
• Less cables showing. All you see from the front is the one cable going into the CPU header. You don't see fan cables going to multiple different fan headers on the MOBO.
  
  Cons:
  
  
• More expensive
  
  
• Less selection of PWM fans than DC fans (could be difficult to color match w/o painting).

Just order

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B00IQH3EM0/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

and

https://www.amazon.de/gp/product/B01636JZHS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

) Thanks for answers.
Hope i can create a good build post in about 2 weeks.

Read sidebar, etc.
Use compatibility checker to confirm your choice of card will work with the blocks that you have picked out.
Putting blocks on a card is not that tough.
Always leak test! Make sure you get some secondary psu for running the pump. I use

1. please really rethink that Deathstalker and tiamat purchase. If you must have razer products, the blackwidow is mechanical and is a much better purchase.
   
   
2. Pump - D5 - read sidebar but all you really need to know. I would personally get one with either pwm or usb control. Vario is also an option.
   
   
3. tubing - size - really doesn't matter as long as tubing, fittings, and equipment are all compatible. Ie G1/4 threads, 1/2" outer diameter tubing and 1/2" fittings
   
   
4. tubing - variety - assume you are using flexible tubing - which i haven't picked up any for a bit ( using rigid now) so ask others about this but there is one without plastisizer issues and that is the one that you will want.
   
   
5. monitors- nice choice, although are you aware the asus rog swift (144hz 1440p ) monitor should be shipping anytime Q2? its going to be a huge step up in terms of lightboost 2, color reproduction ( they say ) and pixel density all while keeping silky smoothness . also gsync
   
   
6. psu - might be overkill for two cards, also I am not sure that the evga is the quietest
   
   
7. also with the processor/mobo, you know that x99 will be out this summer, right? lots of improvements but something to consider...

Nice clean build, I love the whole aesthetic.

However, as a first time looper myself, I would recommend a few improvements. It appears that you put in a bleeder valve and no res and no drain.

Res is a high priority item to keep your pump fed and allow a gathering point for air in the system.

Then you should have a drain for your system and then add a bleeder valve/fill port. A Bleeder valve works great in conjunction with a drain because it will act as a vacuum breaker when draining, and can bleed air when bottom filling.

To add a drain, run a tee off your lowest pump fitting instead of the 90 and set a ball valve and drain out the right side of your case. Put a small 100ml res on the pump incoming line. You don't want to use rads as your res because the air pockets will rob efficiency.

Also, if you are not monitoring your loop temp, I would highly recommend adding a temp sensor.

You can use this: https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Sensor-Temperature-Display-Green/dp/B071K9KL71/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=xspc+G1%2F4+temp+sensor&qid=1567993718&s=gateway&sr=8-5

with this: https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Plug-Sensor-Black-Chrome/dp/B00CMR3CC2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?keywords=xspc+G1%2F4+temp+sensor&qid=1567993718&s=gateway&sr=8-1-fkmr0

It's up to you. You can get a simple, cheap internal fan controller which will allow you to adjust voltage for 3-pin fans(usually it has something like 5-7-12v switch). Or you can buy something like this. It will allow you to adjust speeds of all your 4-pin(pwm) fans through your bios.

But since your case has 2x5.25 bays, i suggest an external fan controller.
Like this. There are plenty to choose from.

I have these ones in my build in push/pull configuration. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07HC782D5/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also I purchased my two 480 mm from Amazon used and they work awesome and appeared to be clean and in perfect condition.

Here is one 360 mm radiator for 58 dollars. https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B078G4Q21K

And some others from 53 to 57 dollars. https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B006097HEC

Just went out on a limb and bought these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QFX1RV1/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm building a similar setup to you (same case, rads). I'm using 40mm thick rads, so static pressure/airflow won't matter quite as much and fin density is mid/low. Honestly, with 2x360 rads I would just go with whatever you like the looks of as long as your not going with monster thick 60+mm rads with insane fin density. Anything in the HWL GTS range (30-40mm thick) is going to be fine with any fans with 720mm worth of rad space. I've been rocking a 11 year old Swiftech MCP 360 thin rad in push/pull with old ass fans with an additional 120mm rad and it keep my 5.0ghz 8700k and 2080ti nice and cool.

The fans I linked above were in a bitwit video and the overall reviews are positive. 130 bucks for 10 fans and an aRGB controller. Not bad. I'll let you know how they do.

​

*One of the pros of this fan is they are reversible without losing the LED ring (it's on both sides). So you can put them in push or pull and still get the aesthetics.

Thanks man, I might add more hard tubing... currently I have soft tubing solutions for it leading into the back, but once I drain it.. now that I've practiced bending hard tube for the first time I'm going to reapproach some ideas and bends.

Also psu is a corsair 750 watt plat sfx.. felt that in my wallet but really gives me some extra space for everything underneath from the pump to the cable mgmt. I recommend looking for anything with similar dimensions.

• below is a copy of my previous post on this build explaining my reservoir and links *
  
  So its a savant pc 120mm reservoir, I got mine off amazon, but on their website its going for 65.00 and they seem to have 1 in stock right now. Just to let you know, when I first started setting it up, one of the holes was not cnc'd out. So I only can put in 3 screws at the moment into the back (currently only using 2 with half a bracket), granted I would drill it out myself if I really needed it, but be aware. Also I'm using a xspc radiator bracket, I've linked the things below for you, not many people make square 120mm reservoirs, the only others ones I know of are the Sollertia Reservoirs or the radikultcustom ebay store. Hope this helps
  
  reservoir - https://www.savantpcs.com/store/120acrylicres/
  
  bracket - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015M4LZKW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
  This guys store once he is back from vacation is worth a look - https://www.ebay.com/usr/radikultcustom

Selection's kinda slim but I'd have to go with OEM fans just to keep costs down if I ever do decide to make a few. No way would I stick people with having to buy 20-30 dollar fans x6-7 in a 250-300 dollar case.

With dual ball bearing fans with a MTBF of 55k hours, they shouldn't be too bad.

The alternative is to go with 4x 200mm which seems to have a wider selection but that would increase the case size even more.

As for 9x120, yeah you can definitely wire up that many fans with either a fan control module or splitters that take power from molex/SATA.

As you said plugging the pump into the CPU OPT fan might be a better idea as it will let you monitor the pump rpm separately from the fan rmp.

The Phanteks hub only sends the rpm signal from the number 1 socket back to the Motherboard, if you have the pump there then you won't be able to get any reading for the fan speed.

Having said that, the Phanteks hub is for 3 pin fans, not 4 pin if I'm correct. I don't know if it will work properly with a pump or fan which needs a PWM signal. Yes, it works off a 4 pin PWM signal but I'm not sure what it then does to control the fans, does it convert the PWM signal to voltage regulation or does it actually pass on the PWM signal ... I think it uses voltage control as the PWM signal is usually sent over the 4th pin which is located away from the guide slot on the fan plug. Looking at the Phanteks hub it looks like these pins are the missing ones, so it couldn't be sending a true PWM signal.

Your pump might still work but the PWM part might not, so it may just run at min speed or max speed and not change speeds.

It is possible to get true PWM splitters (e.g. http://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00OD7MO6E) which will send a PWM signal to multiple fans, but the Phanteks hub isn't one of them as far as I know, sorry.

You would want to double check on how much power each fan draws and the max output of your motherboard fan head. I think most quality mobos can easily support 3-4 fans. If you want to control more you could get a basic fan controller like this.

I appreciate the kind words and am flattered by the idea of being a source of inspiration having been inspired myself. I think that the attention to detail came from a prioritization of form over function. There are subtle hints to this fact scattered throughout the build, the most obvious of which is using the GPU waterblock outlet as the inlet. While the reverse flow through the block will probably cost me a degree or two in terms of performance, it also allowed me to shorten up my runs and stick to the minimalist aesthetic.

As for your questions, the tube cutter and chamfer tool were part of a hard tube bending kit manufactured by Thermaltake. I originally got it for the bending mandrels, but the radii on the bends were too wide and I ended up getting tighter bends doing it by hand. I do live Stateside so most of the loop components were ordered through Performance PCs, MAINFrame Customs (EKWB vendor), and Amazon with the exception of the GPU waterblock and backplate which came directly from EKWB. While I can't speak to the quality of Cablemod cables, I can say that Ensourced provides artisan quality paracord sleeved cables. Based on my observations over time, they seem to be held in high regard and their price seems to reinforce the notion of premium quality.

I've been using one of these for many years now, different brand than I have, but it's exactly the same thing. Coolerguys 100-240v AC to 12 & 5v DC 4pin Molex 2A Power Adapter. It's useful for testing other stuff too, like fans and lighting, as well.

Did you use a silicone insert for those bends? Helps prevent some of the kinking. Also, there are kits that may help you with achieving specific angles (something like this). The bend on the second photo - the one with the little bumps on the inner radius - looks like you didn't give it enough heat.

This is great for filling and re-filling your res with a top entrance.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HFTYIMO

This is a nice item to have for powering on pumps without a PSU.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MGG6SC

I used these to cut and clean my PETG tubing.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PUX9A4Y
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000WT6U8U/

JayzTwoCents did a video of how he controlls them, very easy actually.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1OkBRELqEgM

I'd recommend getting some PWM splitters or a PWM fan hub I use the SwiftTech
cheap and works well.

You need petg (or acrylic) compression fittings along with a heat gun (to bend the tubes), a rubber piece (to put in the tube to you can bend them properly), a cutting tool, and some people use a tool so you can shape right angles or certain degree angles. Something similar to a set like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01BX3EZUI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1523146049&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=petg+tubing+kit&dpPl=1&dpID=41S475EAcuL&ref=plSrch

(I am NOT promoting this kit! But those are tools you need, or tools similar that do the same thing). Best of luck!

Please take all of my comments with a grain of salt. I have only had a water cooling setup for about 3 months.

Extra Coolant: This is good to have if something bad happens. For instance, if you find out you have a leak and you need to drain your loop to fix the problem. You would want to have some spare coolant on hand to refill your loop.

Extra Tubing: I think EK puts 2 meters of tubing in the box which is plenty for what you are looking at doing. I bought an extra 3 meters of tubing with the kit and ended up using about 3 meters out of the 5 meters total. My loop is slightly more complicated with an extra radiator and GPU waterblock. It is also nice to have extra tubing on hand to help drain and fill your loop.

Temp Sensor: This one would be my lowest ranked recommendation. I found myself constantly comparing my temps to other peoples after I put my loop together. Knowing the temperature of your loop water to ambient room temperature (Delta T) is a key element in determining how well your loop is absorbing heat through the water blocks and releasing heat through the radiators. I ended up replacing my three way splitter with a four way about 2 months after I initially built my loop to add a temp sensor. I just think it would be really cheap upfront to add the extra plug for another 3.85 and upgrade the 3-way to a 4-way for maybe another 1.00. This way if you wanted to add a sensor in the future it would be really easy to do.

Temp sensor with LCD display
Stand alone plug temp sensor

Thanks, nice videos,, I may even reconsider the option as some people seem to be complaining about the frames covering the fans and thereby reducing airflow as seen in product reviews here https://www.amazon.co.uk/Phanteks-PH-FF140RGBP_BK01-PH-FF140RGBP_BK01-140MM-RAHM/dp/B074Q4Y16V

If the white fans are really that great then I should go for them and indeed iCue software.. I would otherwise go with asus Aura as the Phanteks frames are said to be supported. if nothing works I should maybe drop the fans RGB all together, though I have 570x which sort of screams to use of these, at least at the front, exactly where the radiator will be.. lol

If you're cutting into something like PETG I would recommend a kit like this, especially if you're new to rigid tubes, cutting and bending. https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-PACIFIC-Water-Cooling-Bending/dp/B01BX3EZUI (it comes with several useful tools including a well-made pipe cutter, silicone insert, mandrels to help with bending, and a reamer to clean the edges of the tubes). It's a bit pricey but worth it imo.

The straighter the better. That looks close enogh though. Also depends on your fittings. I prefer a tubing cutter. Perfectly square every time.
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-Cooling-Bending-CL-W093-AL00BL/dp/B01BX3EZUI/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=thermaltake+tube+cutters&qid=1571101945&sr=8-1

Coolant temps won't spike, so if you're running your fans and pump off a temperature, that's the ideal way to go. I bought this (https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Plug-Sensor-Black-Chrome/dp/B00CMR3CC2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1526051355&sr=8-3&keywords=g1%2F4+temperature+sensor&dpID=41iRpFah5cL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch) and it works great. It did a lot for making my rig run quieter, or at least not ramp up and down when the CPU spiked.

> NF-A14 PWM with Halos.

you mean with like something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/d/Computer-Cases/Phanteks-PH-FF140RGBP_BK01-Halos-density-mounting/B074Q4Y16V) ? i hadnt considered that... its an interesting idea

you can lightly paint them but if the paint builds up too much it will effect cooling.

Alternatives are

http://www.performance-pcs.com/magicool-360-g2-slim-radiator-black.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/alphacool-nexxxos-st30-full-copper-360mm.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/bitspower-leviathan-sf-360-4xg1-4-radiator.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-l-series-360-stealth-radiator.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/black-ice-nemesis-360gts-xflow-ultra-stealth-cross-flow-low-profile-radiator-black-carbon.html

http://www.performance-pcs.com/koolance-radiator-3x120mm-copper-vert-no-nozzles.html

https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Performance-Triple-Radiator-Supports/dp/B006097HEC/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1541284453&sr=1-3&keywords=xspc+radiator

​

What case are you building in are you positive you need a slim rad?

Fan Hub:
SilverStone PWM Fan Hub System Cables, Black (CPF04) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_vZgBCb02XDDP4

RGB Splitter:
2 pcs black 4 Pins LED Splitter Cable LED Strip Connector 4 Way Splitter Y Splitter for One to four RGB 5050 3528 LED Light Strips with 10x Male 4 Pin Plugs -30cm/12inch Long (1 to 4Splitter Cable) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072K21JVF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_K0gBCbYQHM15R

NZXT USB Hub:
NZXT Internal USB Hub - Expands 5 USB 2.0 Ports - Sleek Multifunctional Design - Molex Connection - Plug and Play https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01IFGFTJ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_71gBCbTVQKXD4

You can also use voltage control, it is not too bad. Check the review of the silent wings 3 from thermal bench for more information about the PWM issue.

About your concern about the parallel rad. Take a tube and fill it with water. Where is it more difficult to blow out the first few drops of water?

http://imgur.com/a/NmViM

If you have it vertical it will become harder and harder to blow out the water as you need more pressure to counter the weight of the water on the other side of the tube, but at the beginning there won't be a difference. Same thing holds true for the radiator.

The only downside of the rads is that they have a high resistance. They outperform many thicker rads at low rpm^([1]). I personally don't like the look of thick rads, but to each their own. As the performance is not that mach different, you can go for looks.

If you look at the techpowerup review of the titan x, you can see how well it will perform under water. It can be overclocked around 20%^([2]) so an OC Titan X is about 40% faster than an OC GTX 1080. At 3440x1440, the titan x OC should get around 100fps in Witcher 3.

I also wouldn't worry about the temps of the motherboard.even with low rpm fans, you wqill have enough air that will get pushed over the heatsinks.

Well you have to know, it is 500€ for a motherboard. All you need is one fan header for the fans and a splitter like this:

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I

I doubt that you need pwm for the pump, you can adjust the speed with the vario.

[1] http://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/

[2] https://www.techpowerup.com/reviews/NVIDIA/Titan_X_Pascal/27.html

I did some research on the Core P5 and mATX too, and couldn't find a single mATX board with compatible waterblocks.

But I don't think water cooling for the board is necessary. Natural convection may be sufficient, at least if you're not covering the top of the case.

For more airflow you can strap a fan on the side, perhaps using one of the 3D printed fan brackets, or just a piece of wire.

Alternatively, mount the radiator sideways so the radiator fans supply some airflow to the motherboard; e.g. with a radiator bracket or a 3D printed custom holder.

Hey, sorry to bother you again. Last question I promise. Your review mentions how important it is to run the fans in PWM mode. Do you know if the H440 is PWM on all the headers? Or is it voltage control? It's missing 1 pin for every fan other than the 1st one (white connector): https://i.imgur.com/iMCNWBX.jpg


If you think that it isn't, this product should be good right? http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811999309&cm_re=pwm_fan_hub-_-11-999-309-_-Product

Or https://www.amazon.ca/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473787919&sr=8-2&keywords=pwm+fan+hub ?


I'm open to suggestions as well but I'm in Canada so my choices are limited.
Thanks

Not sure what you mean. The NZXT Kraken G12? Google will find it :P the fan hub was a

https://www.amazon.ca/Phanteks-PWM-Fan-Controller-PH-PWHUB_01/dp/B00M0R05WE Which needs 1 PWM fan and then the rest of the fans connected will mirror its settings.

​

I jsut ended up with a 4 pin Gelid GPU adapter and a PWM Y splitter and use MSI Afterburner. The fan hub now joins my parts and accessories box in the closet.

I second this! The bit fits right into a cordless drill and makes a perfect edge (if you do it right).

https://www.amazon.com/PrimoChill-RFB-Rigid-Tubing-Finishing/dp/B074B3PY7W/ref=sr_1_15?ie=UTF8&qid=1537751815&sr=8-15&keywords=petg+tool

Yes. If you want each radiator to be adjusted individually then get 2 splitters and have them plugged into 2 Mobo fan headers. Here's the one I have

Go with PETG, acrylic is a little bit harder but brittle. This tool is great for finishing the tub ends and this one to cut the tube to length.

Edit: buy first tool according to your tubing size.

Yes there are lots of these. I used an XSPC v2 Radmount in my build to vertically mount a rad in the bottom of my build on top of two fans. There are tons of bykski ones on Ali-Express or other sites that carry Bykski watercooling stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/XSPC-Universal-Radstand-V2-120mm/dp/B015M4LZKW/ref=pd_sbs_147_t_0/139-9576214-8238852?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B015M4LZKW&pd_rd_r=bb0efbe1-4096-4f5a-9bb1-cc45c6d00cc3&pd_rd_w=w4An7&pd_rd_wg=JdFOf&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=2RTW4XGNEGCBTNPTWPHW&psc=1&refRID=2RTW4XGNEGCBTNPTWPHW

That looks exactly what I am looking for.Now to see if I can find it on a website like Amazon or Newegg

Found it: https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_2?keywords=AC+4+PIN+MOLEX+coolerguys&qid=1566142941&s=gateway&sr=8-2-fkmr2

Now that I am reading this, this isn't going to be short on the power output is it? I have this: https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xres-140-revo-d5-rgb-pwm-incl-sl-pump

I ask because I hear the W_Pump+ header is a 3A header for DDC pumps, and this thing is saying "Up to 2A".

Its also not the same model as the one you linked. So I can keep looking.

> Most people don't want to buy a second PSU just for powering a loop.

You don't have to buy a full PSU though. You can find a PSU with a molex head for powering the loop on Amazon, $12.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000MGG6SC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Really helps when filling/flushing the loop.

I've been rocking the halos with the Phanteks 140's an love them. I've got a stack of NZXT, Corsair, and some odd balls be for landing on these.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00OP2PUDQ/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm probably gonna use this, do you think it will help a lot?

https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-Pacific-Cooling-Bending-CL-W093-AL00BL/dp/B01BX3EZUI?th=1

Thanks! Cooler Master GPU bracket. Pccooler Moonlight fans.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CPP6QUG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I quite like it.

Male molex to male fan adapter should work, and there are also ac to molex power supplies.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3-Pin-4-Pin-Molex-Male-To-4x-PWM-Male-Sleeved-Fan-Extension-Adapter-Cable-/322899310386

https://www.amazon.com/Coolerguys-100-240v-Molex-Power-Adapter/dp/B000MGG6SC

These are just an example. I didn't look too hard, so you might be able to find better prices or quality, but those together should power it without being hooked up to a psu or motherboard.

I have (6) noctuas running off of this. SATA for power and any 4 pin fan port on the mobo for Speedfan / rpm control.

https://www.amazon.com/Swiftech-8W-PWM-SPL-ST-Way-PWM-Splitter-Sata/dp/B00IF6R4C8

I just use Phobya splitters for my 2 480mm rads, a two way splitter cable for my two d5's and then just fan headers for the case fans

I use this:

[Swiftech 8 Way PWM] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IF6R4C8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Only $12.99

No issues Easy to control them too

I have one of these that I use when filling my loop. Works with my Liang D5 vario pump.

I have one of these so I don't have to unplug everything from my PSU

https://www.amazon.com/ModRight-Anti-Static-Mod-Mat-Assembly-Surface/dp/B00CPP6QUG

One PWM header for Pump, One PWM header wired to a splitter for fans.

Will this PWM fan splitter work?
https://www.amazon.com/Phobya-4Pin-PWM-auf-Splitter/dp/B00OD7MO6E

Using this:

http://www.amazon.com/Phobya-4-Pin-Splitter-Power-Eight/dp/B00OD7MO6E

Grab this kit:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BX3EZUI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Any PWM splitter will work (did you buy PWM fans or 3pin fans). Whether its simple cables or into a box like this

https://www.amazon.com/JBtek-Black-Sleeved-Splitter-Computer/dp/B01GZPEQW6/ref=sr_1_14?ie=UTF8&qid=1480383759&sr=8-14&keywords=pwm+splitter

Running 6 of those fans per channel wont be a problem at all. If you were ever worried about power you could always use one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480383789&sr=8-4&keywords=pwm+splitter

They power the fans from the PSU and send the pwm and rpm signal to the controller.

Personally I used to use asus fan control and it seemed to lag in response (took a while to respond to temperatures) plus the whole fact that it dictated motherboard choice in the future.

I use an Aquaero 6 Pro with 8 EK Vardar fans and an Aquacomputer d5.

I have it run my pump at 38% (you can adjust it in 1% increments)

I have it run my vardar fans DC controlled and it ramps them up based on water temperature. I have a water temp probe, an internal temp probe, and ambient temp probes on the outside of each radiator so i can measure incoming air, internal air, outgoing air, and water temp.

It shows me the delta between ambient temp and water temp and runs my fans from ~500rpm to 900rpm depending on water temp

The benefit is its completely independent of the pc. I can change hardware, wipe the hard drive, reset the motherboard and my wc system keeps going with no configuration. Only thing it needs the pc in windows for is cpu and gpu temps which are really just so i can see them. You should control fans based on water temp, not gpu/cpu temp.

Want to run an led strip, it can do simple 12v led strips. It can run an RGB led. It can interface with flow meters and all kinds of shit.

ZJchao 200ml Acrylic Water Tank Cooler Water Cooling Radiator Pc Cpu Water Block

2 of XSPC G1/4" to 3/8" Barb Fitting Black Chrome - 4 Pack

BXQINLENX Professional Special CPU Water Cooling Block For INTEL Water Cool System Computer Black

TC-A - CPU Liquid Cooling Pump

Silver Coils - Antimicrobial .999 Fine Silver Strip

XSPC G1/4" Plug with 10k Sensor, Black Chrome

and a hardware labs gts that I did not get from Amazon.

I only bought stuff that was highly rated and after a year nothing has leaked or broken or anything. I guess I should also say I already had the fans so that saved a lot of money there.

No problem. I'm using the Silverstone 1-to-8 PWM hub to control 5 ML120's and ML140's, it only costs a little more than a splitter cable - would recommend

https://www.amazon.com/SilverStone-System-Cables-Black-CPF04/dp/B00VNW556I

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IF6R4C8/ref=oh_aui_i_sh_in_o0_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Swiftech 8 way pwm hub. Powered by sata. Been using for some time now and no complaints. I don't have my pump hooked up to it yet bit once I'm back together and running I'll run the pump on it as well.

Same deal as the rest. One of em is used for rpm monitoring.

Single bends are fine, it's just two bends on a single tube which can take a lot of trial and error.

Not sure what you got in tools yet but I kit similar to this( https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B01BX3EZUI/ ) would help alot. I didn't have the silicone tube when I did mine and trying to bend the tube without it collapsing was a PITA. You will also need a heat go though, you can generally pick one up a a hardware store reasonable cheap.

​

|mobo|$290|AORUS Z390 Master|
|:-|:-|:-|
|gpu|$700|AORUS 1080 ti Xtreme|
|ram|$360|G.Skill TridentZ RGB 4x8 3200 Mhz|
|cpu|$360|Intel i7 8700k 5Ghz OC|
|psu|$156|Corsair RM1000i Gold|
|nvme|$138|Samsung 970 EVO 500GB 2280 SSD|
|case|$150|Corsair Obsidian 500D|
|fans|$56|Corsair SP120|
|rgb fans|$110|Corsair LL120 RGB|
|cables|$105|CableMod PRO ModMesh C-Series RMi|
|240 rad|$66|EKWB EK-CoolStream SE 240 Slim Dual|
|360 rad|$90|EKWB EK-CoolStream PE 360 Dual|
|gpu wb|$165|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus RGB - Nickel|
|gpu bp|$47|EK-FC1080 GTX Ti Aorus Backplate - Nickel|
|cpu wb|$72|Phanteks Glacier C350i|
|kit|$60|Thermaltake PETG 16mm OD Bending Kit|
|pump|$100|EKWB EK-D5 PWM G2 Pump|
|res|$126|Watercool HEATKILLER Tube 200 D5|
|res top|$21|Watercool HEATKILLER Multiport Top 200|
|stand|$19|Watercool HEATKILLER Stand (Long)|
|riser|$27|Thermaltake PCI-E x16 3.0 Riser Cable 200mm|
|coolant|$56|XSPC EC Opaque White Coolant (qty 2)|
|fittings|$54|Thermaltake Pacific 90 Degree Adapters|
|fittings|$110|Thermaltake Pacific 16mm Compression Fittings (qty 2)|
|fittings|$26|Bitspower 5mm Male to Male 4-Pack|
|fittings|$20|Barrow Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$15|Thermaltake Stop Plug 4-Pack|
|fittings|$14|XSPC Ball Valve|
|tubing|$40|Thermaltake 1000mm V-Tubler PETG 16mm 4-Pack|
|paste|$40|Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut|
|isopropyl|$18|NTE Isopropyl 99.9%|
|bottle|$11|1000ml fill bottle|
|foam|$13|1/4 inch thick foam insulation|
|heat gun|$25|Furno 300 Heat Gun|
||$3649||
||||
|mouse pad|$26|Reflex Lab XXXL 36" x 18" Mouse Pad|
|chair|$175|Techni Mobili RTA-5004-BK Rta-5004-Bk Office Chair|
|arm pads|$18|Aloudy Ergonomic Memory Foam Arm Covers|
|monitor|$900|Acer Predator x34p Ultrawide QHD G-Sync|
|stand|$100|AmazonBasics Premium Single 25lb Monitor Stand|
|cable|$18|Accell DisplayPort 1.2 Cable 10ft|
||$4886||
||||
|mouse|$50|Logitech G502 Proteus Spectrum RGB|
|keyboard|$110|https://www.amazon.com/MODEL-Corsair-Gaming-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B00N2ROO2S|
||$5046||

​

Gladly! The only thing in the loop was the CPU. I do plan on expanding it in the future. I have this radiator with 2 Noctua NFF12s on it. The loop is being driven by this pump with this reservoir. There is maybe 5 feet (max) of this tubing used.

I Also have several Corsair fans in the case that came with the Air 540. All fans were profiled using ASUS's Fan Xpert3 that was bundled with the mobo. My CPU is running at 4.7GHz, with an average low use temperature of 37C using an old H100i that I pulled from storage when the EKWB block failed.

XSPC Radiator Mounting Bracket Set

or

XSPC Universal Radstand V2


Or go buy some 6-32 screws about 2-3 inches long, and 8x 6-32 nuts and 4 flat washers to fit. run the screws through the rear 120mm fan housing, then put a nut on and back it almost to the head of the screw, then screw another nut on just a bit, then screw the screws into the radiator just past the surface and back the nut onto it to tighten it, then tighten the 1st nut to the case and boom you have a mount. (if this is to hard to follow, It is probably because I am bad at explaining things like this.)

First off... I know my bends are fucking putrid. Shamefully disgusting even.
I seriously didn't think I would suck so bad at bending PETG.

Some of the mistakes I made was:

1. Buying this kit that was made for 16mm tubing, when I was using 12mm tubes.
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-PACIFIC-Water-Cooling-Bending/dp/B01BX3EZUI
   
   
   
2. Using 12mm tubing (I think 16 would look better).
   
   
3. Not having enough 90degree fittings
   
   
4. Not buying more PETG. - You would think that 3 meters would be enough right? Wrong! Not with all the fuck-ups I made.
   I really want to go back a re-do the piece that goes to the GPU and the one that goes from the GPU.
   
   
   
   
   
   Anyway, some things that I am VERY happy with:
   
   
5. Mayhems Pastel blue pre-mixed coolant. Even though my bends look disgusting, I just love staring at that blue coolant.
   
   
6. Even though they are useless when using pastel coolant, I bought these UV LED strips... And I was shocked to find that they were'nt just crappy "UV colored" LED strips.
   https://www.mayhems.net/collections/5-5-leds/products/darkside-5-5-14cm-darkside-connect-dimmable-rigid-led-strip-uv