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The Internet is your friend! I can't imagine the magnitudes of higher difficulty generations before us faced. These days, you can Google "oil change DIY <insert year/make/model of your car>" and you will get endless write-ups from forums that specialize in your car, YouTube videos, dedicated personal sites, etc. I definitely know it seems complex, but if you are even the slightest bit technical-minded and can visualize things, you'll very quickly realize that you can probably take apart almost anything you see under the hood and be able to put it back together. Just be careful, take pictures of things before you disassemble, and buy plenty of magnetic trays ($2-3 from Harbor Freight) to keep track of nuts and bolts. Fortunately, there are plenty of maintenance things you can start with that you can't really break, like changing your engine air filter.

Doing an oil change is probably the next simplest thing you can do. In short, safety first, learn how to jack up your car and put it on jack stands, or just buy Rhino Ramps for $40, undo the drain plug, drain the oil into a big pan, put the bolt back in with a new crush washer, find and remove the filter, sometimes it's one metal thing and other times it's a plastic thing with a filter inside of it, then put the new one back on, then pour in x quarts or liters of oil back up top. Your first few times will take an hour or two and will likely be messy, but you'll very quickly be able to shorten that amount of time and eventually be able to do it without spilling a single drop.

A starter set of mechanic tools will cost you $20-40 on Amazon. Oil and filter is usually $20-40 even if you use the good stuff. But then those tools and ramps will also be used basically forever, so they're one-time costs. Once you do this a couple times and get comfortable getting under the car, looking at things, then you can read about doing transmission or differential fluid changes, start removing some of your engine covers just to take a look around and compare it to all the DIY videos and articles/posts that you can find. Once you have a small set of tools, any subsequent jobs will likely just require maybe 1 or 2 additional specialized tools to access some weird things. Even today, after having done most of my own maintenance for years, I would sometimes have to go on Amazon and spend $7 just to buy some weird size socket just to get to this one thing on specific car. You'll familiarize yourself with bolt clamps, start to see how manufacturers like to connect things, where things get dirtier than other places, look at things that you don't normally see when the car is all buttoned up, all with very little risk. It's also definitely easier on a Japanese car. I learned to work on older German cars when I started, where it took 3-4 different bolts and bits and strange wrangling of plastic trim and linings just to remove a bumper, so then I was pleasantly surprised that all I needed was ONE SINGLE 10mm socket on a dozen exposed bolts to take off my Mazda bumper.

It took me a couple years of light wrenching before I was comfortable enough to do my own brakes (mentally, it always seemed like the biggest risk if I messed something up). Now, I can swap all of my brake pads before a track day in about half hour. I recently bought another VW and learned that it has a common coolant system issue, something I had never worked on before... I spent a couple days reading and watching videos, then just ordered the right parts and went in and did everything while following along and pausing the videos. Took me a couple hours, but now I am not nervous about doing anything coolant-related since I gained a deep understanding how the piping works, etc. In fact, I've now added a simple coolant system flush to my to-do list for my other cars.

I looked at your post history and did some light Googling... looks like this site has your full 553-page manual. Here is the link to page 448 that guides you through an oil change, but it looks like all the maintenance stuff starts on page 432. Based on Amazon's built-in car search tool, it looks like the Fram XG7317 is what fits on a '16 TLX V6 AWD. And the service manual says you should be using 0W-20, which is also something you can find on Amazon... I use Castrol Syntec 0W-20 for my track car that definitely sees a ton of hard driving, and it's usually $25 for a 5-qt jug. Based on this resource, looks like you only need about 4.5 qts. This video seems to be pretty informative to walk you through an entire oil change on the V6.

You probably want to create an account on tlxforums.com and start poking around the maintenance subs. Maintenance section and common issues section.

I would tell you to look for a formal service manual, but I may be dating myself here. It doesn't look like there are paper manuals available to buy (at least from Honda; there may eventually be third party ones). In the meantime, it looks like you can pay to access this one... $30/year? Maybe do some of the more simple DIYs, get yourself familiar, start building up a small tool collection, and then go in there and poke around and maybe even download/print some of the stuff you'd want to do.

Feel free to PM me if you want to discuss more or bounce some ideas around, or if you just need a cheerleader before you dive into your first job. Hell, in typing all of this, I'm feeling pretty good about getting down on some Acura V6 maintenance myself, lol.

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*edit* I didn't realize how carried away I got with this response. I'm sorry for thread-jacking with a text wall, u/op. Let me know if you'd like me to remove this post and share it in a PM instead.

Nigel is a great name for a first generation M-class.

Is the USB port for charging or for media? If it's for charging then you can fit one of these to basically any car, and pretty much anything with 5 seats will have cupholders, so those two requirements should be easy to meet.

Based on the basic requirements you've given, I'd look at a midsize saloon. They're big enough to deal with 5 passengers or 3 car seats but not so big that you're giving up fuel economy or driving something difficult to manoeuvre in the city. In that class I'd look at a lightly used certified pre-owned (5-15k miles) Honda Accord or Toyota Camry. They're not particularly exciting cars, as the Mazda6 is much more fun to drive, but they're a little bigger, a little cheaper, and all three will be very reliable and safe. The Mazda does have a slightly more upscale feel than the Accord, which is a little nicer than the Camry, but it depends how much money you want to spend. Any of those will be great as basic transport, and they should be reasonably nice places to sit in while you're stuck in LA traffic. Oh, and all three should have decent infotainment systems so if you're looking to plug a USB device into them that should be something they offer.

Get the Rav4 or CRV. Remote start and a bike rack can be added for a few hundred bucks. Don't let that stop you. I've never heard of a remote start that turns on the heat for you. Maybe in brand new cars, but even my dad's 15 Silverado, you have to leave the heat/ac how you want it for the morning/night/whatever.


CPO and warranties are great...10 years down the line when they're no longer active. I think CPO's come with a warranty, but other than that it's just a PPI from their mechanic. So instead of a ~$100 inspection, you'd over pay for the car. I wouldn't get a warranty, but that's me. I see it like buying a new toaster oven. If it's gonna break, it's gonna break after the three years so you spent an extra $20 for nothing.

Buying a rental isn't necessarily a bad thing, because most places are good about maintenance. But, would you really want a three year old car with 80k miles already (idk when they retire out cars)?

Around me, you can get a brand new, awd CRV for $25k. So, if you're comfortable with that I would just look for one that's 2015+. you may be able to get like a '14 or '15 with all the bells and whistles for the same price as an '18 basic trim.

>My absolute price match is $16,000 but would prefer $8,000-14,000.

Okay, sounds good.

>* Tesla anything

????? The only Tesla you can afford is this one or this one.

In all seriousness, it sounds like the best bang for buck in this situation is going to be the Prius or Camry.

I installed a hitch on my Equinox last year. If you or your husband are even the least bit handy, you can do it too and save yourself $200-$300. The Equinox is hitch ready as the holes are pre-drilled with nutserts and pre-wired for lights.

Just buy a hitch online (Amazon, eTrailer, etc) and 6 bolts later you are ready for a bike rack. The car does not need to be lifted for installation, although it makes it easier.

This is the bike rack that I have and it works well.

Just saying what the other guy said. You can get an aftermarket head unit, or, if you don't want something that invasive, something like this. At most, you're looking at 300 to add bluetooth to any car. Shops like best buy or fry's will install them. Look for a good car at a good price, then worry about bluetooth later.

I bought this one because the real power is in the app, and the app is only 10 bucks. It works well. Takes a little setup but it sounds like you're up to the task. It's really simple but lots of great info about the auto you're checking! You can keep it connected while you drive and check on the performance live.

I would look for Kia Souls or Honda Fits. At your price point, those are the two likeliest candidates. Both can carry tons of stuff, decent mpg, and pretty reliable. Especially if you can drive a manual transmission, but their automatics are fine too.

You should be able to find something within under 75,000 miles at that price.

I think both have Bluetooth, but if they don't, just get a Bluetooth transmitter. This is the one I use (https://www.amazon.com/Nulaxy-Wireless-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Smartphones/dp/B018E0I01I) and it works better than the built in version in some of my friends' cars.

Veloster seems to be a really good value. Huyndai is not known for quality problems. If you like the car, it fits your particular needs, and the price is right, I suspect you probably won't do much better.

Something like this will help with the blindspot issue: Custom Accessories 71121 2" Blind Spot Mirror, (Twin Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BOAX1G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_EmRQAb49ZENPF

You just adhere it directly onto your current mirrors in the far corner. Can probably also find these at a local auto parts store

Edit: hopefully someone who owns a Veloster can chime in with their input on quirks and ownership experience :)

Pioneer AVH-2300NEX Multimedia DVD Receiver with 7" WVGA Display/Apple CarPlay/Android Auto/Built-in Bluetooth/SiriusXM-Ready/AppRadio Mode + https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073BKPWNC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_rJx9dP7hhQnYi

This is the cheapest Android auto/apple car play deck that I know of. I have it in my 91 mr2.

It's dope. Only thing is you have to plug in your phone for it to work. You can get more expensive decks that Android auto/ACP will work over Bluetooth.

Grab a good car and wire this in. You'll be glad you did.

I told a mechanic about a used car that I had looked at, but was turned off due to the STRONG smell of cigarette smoke. He immediately replied that this product, Ozium, worked, as he was a smoker himself. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B66KHXM/ref=psdc_15735121_t2_B008XNZZ7O

Can you not get a bluetooth adapter?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Mpow-Bluetooth-Streaming-Hands-free-Cancelling-Black-Updated-Version/dp/B00KON1JIA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Bluetooth+Wireless+Stereo+Audio+Receiver+car&qid=1574165213&s=electronics&sr=1-3

I got one like that (different make, same design and idea) and it works flawlessly. 1 charge lasts like a week or 2ish?

If you are looking for a journalistic look at this, go watch everyday driver season 3 episode 2. They literally compare these two cars against each other. The episode is free to stream if you have amazon prime.


Link to Everyday Driver amazon link

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https://www.everydaydriver.com/

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This is their website link so you can see what they're about!

I have done this suspension job myself on my '03 Town Car. The springs, not shocks, are what replaces the air bags. You can find the rear spring replacement kit here. As you can see, it's not expensive at all. There is a very minor decrease in ride comfort, but also a minor improvement in handling.

Shoot, I updated my link. Originally put my charger for a car that had built in Bluetooth.

IMDEN Bluetooth FM Transmitter for Car, QC3.0 Wireless Bluetooth FM Radio Adapter Music Player FM Transmitter / Car Kit with Hands-free Calling and 2 USB Ports Charger Support USB Drive. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07F2RTN5Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_QmqQDbTK8KE71

The mic works pretty well for calls too.

So yeah: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087OWZSQ/ or http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GI9OLW0/

You get better sound quality anyways through the line out as opposed to the headphone jack.

In my past search for cars I just Google the phrases:

[Model name year] repair price -> for the estimated annual repair price, IMHO if you buy CPO or something with less than 40k miles and sell within 3 years you won't be needing anything other than the scheduled maintenance in the manual.

[Model name year] problems -> there are reviews on Edmund, and there is another website whose name I cannot remember with a helpful graph of problem reports for each years, you'll find it it's pretty high up the list

And lastly check out the subreddit for Volvo's.

Volvo's are quality cars and I believe they keep using the same overall engine design for many years with small adjustments each year, so their engines are fairly reliable. Again, just a generalization, you'll need to ascertain this for your model.

As for Bluetooth, I'm not talking about an actual part that you'll need to spend time putting in, but just a handsfree dongle! I'll link you soon.

Ok so:
Besign Bluetooth 4.1 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking, Music Streaming Dongle With 10W Dual Port 2A USB Charger, Magnetic Mounts, for Car with 3.5mm Aux Input Jack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LGKSBFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tJgnzbBB1BHFY

This one plugs into your aux port and usb charger. Starts when you leave it plugged in and start the car. This is the closest you can get to seamless Bluetooth streaming.

Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Hands-Free Car Kit for Cars with Aux Input Jack (3.5 mm) - Supports Apt X https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vNgnzbTJV2BQP

This is the more expensive option of the same thing, IDK if it's higher quality or just brand tax.

Mpow Bluetooth Receiver, Streambot Hands-free Car Kits & Wireless Music Adapter for Stereo System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MJMV0GU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tQgnzbVABGKJM

Completely wireless but you need to recharge it every now and then and turn it on every time.

Nulaxy Wireless In-Car Bluetooth FM Transmitter Radio Adapter Car Kit with 1.44 Inch Display and USB Car Charger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018E0I01I/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sRgnzbDHK9FC1

This is what most people use, connects to your phone with Bluetooth and streams the music thru the radio to your car. IMHO the Volvo's you're buying will most likely have an aux port, and the placement of the charging port wouldn't work very well with this device, so I wouldn't recommend it but I'm linking it anyways in case you buy a car without an aux port.

All in all I'd recommend the first link.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EZX656A/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_vMn4BbYSC16G3%20via%20@amazon

That is what I bought, and I really like it. It fits my back perfectly, I had gotten to the point where my back was in extreme pain after driving for 20 minutes. There are a variety of cushions that cost more or less.....My car is stick shift as well but if you want the fancy seats you need to purchase a cvt

I have this one and it works like a charm while being way less bully than a lot of alternatives. It also has fast charging.

https://www.amazon.com/Bluetooth-FM-Transmitter-Wireless-Adapter/dp/B07F2RTN5Z/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=car+bluetooth+fm+transmitter&qid=1571348386&smid=A1UG625Q3HPL82&sprefix=car+blue&sr=8-3