Best products from r/wildwhittlers
We found 21 comments on r/wildwhittlers discussing the most recommended products. We ran sentiment analysis on each of these comments to determine how redditors feel about different products. We found 17 products and ranked them based on the amount of positive reactions they received. Here are the top 20.
1. Morakniv Wood Carving 120 Knife with Laminated Steel Blade, 2.4-Inch
- Product length: 230 mm(9-Inch), Product width: 34 mm(1. 3-Inch), Knife length: 165 mm(6. 49-Inch), Blade thickness: 2. 7 mm(0. 10-Inch), Blade length: 60 mm(2. 4-Inch)
- Oiled birch wood handle
- Limited lifetime manufacturer's
- Wood carving knife with a durable laminated steel blade
- Care Instructions: Hand Wash
Features:
2. Morakniv Classic No 2 Wood Handle Utility Knife with Carbon Steel Blade, 4.2-Inch
Traditional craft/utility knife with carbon steel bladeRed ochre birch handlePlastic sheath with a belt clipLimited lifetime manufacturer’s warranty.Blade Thickness: 0.08" (2.0 mm), Blade Length: 4.2" (106 mm), Total Length: 8.3" (210 mm), Weight: 3 oz. (86g)
3. Flexcut Hip Knife, 1-1/4 inch High Carbon Steel Blade, with Ergonomic Ash Handle, (KN30)
Comes with handy leather hip pouchFlexcut Cutting Knife with 1-1/4 inch bladeErgonomic ash hardwood handle is both comfortable and sturdyPerfect knife for the woodsman or camper who likes to carve in the wildMade in the USA
4. Opinel No 6 Carbon Steel Folding knife
- This essential tool is unchanged since 1890 and is a must have for outdoorsmen and handymen alike
- The Stainless Virobloc safety ring has two sections, one fixed and one sliding for secure locking
- Opinel's carbon steel is extremely hard, thereby guaranteeing excellent cutting quality
- Handle is made from hard, durable Beechwood from France
- Opinel products are guaranteed under normal use and exchanged in case of manufacturing defects
Features:
5. Xacto Precision Razor Saw Set
Precision Razor Saw SetDelicate Sawing of Models and Railroad TracksGreat For Cutting Metal, Balsa Wood and PlasticComes With Different Blades Types See Description For More DetailsThis is an aftermarket of generic part
6. Fallkniven DC4
- Equipped with many compartments, Main compartment with removable inserts
- Expandable 2in1 function - adjustable depth by about 6 cm
- Shock-protected and weatherproof, Removable and padded shoulder strap
- Material on the bottom of the bag is wipe able
- Inner size: 33x14x25 cm, Weight: 1 kg, Capacity: 10 L
Features:
7. Klaas KC3331-BRK Robert Klass Lockback Whittler
- Made in: China
- Category name: traditional-pocket-knives
- Made in USA or imported
Features:
8. Buck Knives 375 Deuce Two Blade Folding Pocket Knife
- TWO BLADES, ONE KNIFE - The Deuce features Two Blades: 2" Clip and 1-3/8" Coping Blade. The 420J2 Steel is known for its' Corrosion Resistance. Closed Length 2-5/8", Weight .7 oz.
- VERSATILE - The clip point blade is used for detail work and the coping blade is used for making curved cuts or cuts in tight places.
- HANDSOME HANDLE - Woodgrain Handle with Nickel Silver Bolsters provide a knife that is as handy as it is handsome!
Features:
9. Morakniv Wood Carving 164 Hook Knife with Carbon Steel Blade, 0.5-Inch Internal Radius
Hook knife for spoon and detailed wood carvingSingle-edged, carbon steel bladeOiled birch wood handleBlade length: 2.0 inches (50 mm); Internal radius: 0.5 inches (13 mm); Weight: 2.1 oz. (59 g)Made in Sweden; Limited lifetime manufacturer’s warranty.
10. Flexcut Detail Knife, High Carbon Steel Blade, Ergonomic Ash Handle, 1-1/2 inch Blade Bevel Length (KN13)
- 1-1/2 inch straight edged knife
- Ergonomic ash hardwood handle
- Perfect for detail cuts
- Razor-sharp 1095 high carbon steel blade is ready to use right out of the package
- Made in the USA
Features:
11. Morakniv Wood Carving 122 Knife with Laminated Steel Blade (2.4-Inch)
- Small woodcarving knife with a thin, tapered, laminated steel blade
- Oiled birch wood handle
- One of a family of precision tools made by Morakniv in Mora, Sweden since 1891
- Limited lifetime manufacturer's warranty
- Dimensions: Blade Length: 2.4-inches (60 mm), Blade Thickness: 0.08-inches (2.0 mm), Total Length: 6.7-inches (169 mm), Weight: 1.9 oz. (53g)
Features:
12. Cold Steel Tufflite Plain Edge Folding Knife Black
- Weight: 2.5oz
- Blade Thickness: 2.75mm
- Blade Length: 2-1/2"
- Overall Length: 6"
- Blade Steel: Japanese AUS8A Stainless
- Handle Length/Material: 3-1/2" Griv-Ex
- Blade Shape: Sheepsfoot
- Locking Mechanism: Tri-Ad Lock
- Blade Thick: 2.75mm
- Blade Length: 2-1/2"
- Handle Length: 3-1/2"
Features:
13. Fury Nobility Raindrop Razor Edge Blade Folding Knife with Rose Pakka Handle, 2-Inch
RosePakka Hardwood Handle with Stainless Pins440 Stainless Steel Blades and BolsterRazor Blade Edge
14. Imperial IMP16S Stockman 5.9in Stainless Steel Traditional Folding Knife with 2.5in Clip Point, Sheepsfoot and Spey Blade and POM Handle for Outdoor Hunting Camping and Everyday Carry
DIMENSIONS: 5.9 inch (15 cm) overall length with a blade length of 2.5 inches (6.4 cm) and a weight of 1.9 ouncesDEPENDABLE: Quick and easy access with nail pulls on every bladeSECURE: Have confidence that the blade will not slip with the security of heat treated back springsBE PREPARED: Knife featu...
15. Walnut Hollow Basswood Carving Block, 1.75" x 3.5" x 7"
This package contains one 1.75" x 3.5" x 7" blockMade in Wisconsin, USASoft wood with no knots makes carving smooth and easyLightweight wood can be glued easily to other surfacesEach piece is professionally kiln dried and sanded smooth
16. Lansky QuadSharp QSHARP
Country Of Origin : ChinaThe Package Height Of The Product Is 1 InchesThe Package Length Of The Product Is 8.63 InchesThe Package Width Of The Product Is 3.5 Inches
17. Norton 614636855653 IB8 1-by-2-by-8-Inch Fine/Coarse India Combination Oilstone, Red
- This combination knife sharpener stone has a dual side sharpening system, one side with 100 grit stone for repairing cutting edges and 280 grit stone for sharpening and maintaining razor sharp edges on knives and tools
- This sharpening oil stone is great for efficiency in repairing and maintaining the razor sharp edges needed for key at home tools, including kitchen knives, hunting knives and many more
- This sharpening stone is prefilled with oil to allow lubricant to stay on the sharpening stone surface while sharpening
- This tool and knife sharpening oil stone is 1 x 8 x 2 inch size (H x W x D), is great for use as a bench stone for kitchen knives, a utility knife, tools and more
- This knife sharpener with an oil stone design is more durable and harder than a whetstone and is intended to be used with Norton Abrasives Sharpening Stone Oil for the most efficient sharpening system
Features:
I started with a Mora 122, but it didn't take too long for me to realize that the long blade got in the way. (or rather, my hand got in the way of the long blade) The 120 looks better due to the shorter blade. Moras come extremely sharp, which is beneficial to someone just getting started, as you will be able to learn what it SHOULD feel like when you whittle. Then, you can compare your experiences to that as your blade dulls, and you'll be able to tell when you need to hone/strop.
I also bought the flexcut here
It's been a really good knife, but wasn't quite as sharp as the mora out of the box. However, the sheath is really nice quality (better than the moras) and its easy to transport, and the blade is nice and short so it doesnt get in the way. I would choose the flexcut if I had to choose one knife to bring somewhere to whittle.
Congratulations, its a fun hobby! Good luck!
A Morakniv Classic is a pretty great choice. Comfortable grip, well made, cheap. You just have to be aware that it is carbon steel, so it will rust if you leave it wet, and the sheath it comes in is kinda crappy. If you don't mind those two things, a mora would be great for you. If you'd rather a folding knife, the other one I can recommend is an Opinel. While that particular knife is carbon steel, you can get the Opinel in stainless as well, and it has pretty much all the same advantages of a Mora.
All that being said, so long as your Swiss Army knife is sharp, and you start on an easy bit of wood, soft, no knots, straight grain, you probably don't need a new knife.
That's a pretty common size, in my opinion. When you're carving in the round, most people trace the design onto the wood with pencil (there's some techniques for this as well, like using center lines to maintain good proportions) and then cut the blank to roughly match the design with a bandsaw or coping saw if you are doing it by hand.
Personally, I go with the coping saw and as I make the cuts, I tape the sawed-off pieces back together with masking tape and retrace the pencil lines so I can more easily conceptualize the proper cuts on a 3d object. The coping saw can be rather tiresome work though.
Another good method is to use stop cuts to precisely take away large amounts, but instead of using a knife to make the stop cut, use a little saw. This small Xacto saw is amazing for that purpose.. I've tried a number of small, hand-held saws and this one has very fine teeth and minimal kerf so it works well in basswood. Just cut in with the saw, then use the knife to gradually slice down the unwanted material to the stop cut.
My first project was also an egg and I have to say it is a very boring project, although it was useful to figure out how the grain affected various cuts. Choose a more interesting one next time from the start and it will be far more enjoyable. I'd recommend trying a wood spirit (like an old man face). There's plenty of tutorials and examples on youtube/google. Picking up a coping saw or the Xacto to rough out what you want to carve will get some parts started even quicker.
This was about halfway through my second carving attempt ever, doing a wood spirit. You can see how you use the corner of the blank for the bridge of the nose and round off the head around the other three corners. Way more fun.
They're okay for basic sharpening but for wood carving with knives, you want the knife to be as sharp as possible. It's safer and easier. You'll notice that the ceramic polishing stone on the lansky is only 800 grit which is way too course for getting any kind of fine edge on your knife.
If you're just starting out, maybe get whatever is cheap. I recommend this to begin with. I have achieved much better results than with any of those Lansky types of sharpeners. Then if you decide you like whittling, invest in some more expensive bench stones. You won't regret it!
The case whittlers are more ornate and unique but lack the safety mechanisms of the Flexcut series.
A good comprimise would be the [Robert Klaas Lockback Whittler] (https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B003HBWJV2/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_CASFybTZ6C4HC) . Which I think, is a beautiful knife with a good name.
You should also check out the Schrade Hammer Sunfish whittler, Schrade's Uncle Henry whittler series aswell as the Boker Carver's Congress. These knives don't have lockbacks but I still like them more than the Case Seahorses.
Sharpening that will be a chore...
Just grab yourself a good heavy, comfortable box cutter that uses razors. Spend your $25 on a few extra blades and a pack of basswood. Get used to how the blade works when used on wood grain at different angles and directions.
I've got a drawer full of knives and still grab a razor knife for just wasting time whiltiling. It's quick, easy, cheap and it needs no sharpening.
Just my thoughts. If you really want a knife just get a Chinese buck knife. Mine holds an edge better than any expensive case knife I've bought yet.
Something like this..
Buck Knives 375 Deuce Two Blade Folding Pocket Knife https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000EI0VXO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PmajDbA7Q9R5W
This is the hook knife that I use... there are lots of youtube videos about using and sharpening these knives. It is pretty fun to use once you get a good edge and learn how to wield it.
Knife
I just ordered this one. What do you think? Thanks for the welcome
Ended up purchasing a Mora 120. Hope it turns out well.
I started whittling a few months ago and I've been using a Mora 120. I appreciate the big wood handle and the smaller 1.9 in blade, plus, it takes and holds a sharp edge well.
If it's Moras for you, I use the 120 and 122 most out of the bunch (which can be confusing when you grab them, they're surprisingly easy to get backwards).
I do most of my carving with a folding knife though, a Cold Steel Tuff Lite:
http://i.imgur.com/h4AT4sp.jpg
They can make a big difference but mostly I would say just use what works for you. Personally I use a Mora Classic #2 for almost all my carving, its cheap, and its easy to get it wicked sharp. Occasionally I'll use a smaller blade such as an opinel or a Flexcut. Wood selection is also a big factor, I would recommend grabbing some Basswood if you're just starting out.
Sure, I'm interested in your work.
As for the knife, it's a cheapie I ordered on Amazon. I like the size, since I can carry it in my pocket with a small block and not feel bulky. The handle, however, leaves a lot to be desired when it comes to my hands. I think I'll need a thicker handle to avoid fatigue, but I'm looking into that. The handle on this Morakniv might be more what I need.
oohh I understand know.
What about this type of sharpners? https://www.amazon.com.mx/gp/product/B01BE8KCN6/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AVDBXBAVVSXLQ
It actually is (or supposed to be) basswood! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VG1QUQK/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_LsAMxbG4NJCPE
I will keep that in mind. I will have to look into what I can get in my area.
Knife: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0037SNATU
Depending on the wood, if I'm using a knife a lot, I'd strop it pretty often - it could be as often as every 5-10 minutes. I sharpen the blade less often than that - maybe every few hours of carving, again depending on the wood.
Stropping technique is important - make sure to keep the blade flat to the strop - if you don't you'll actually be dulling the edge with the strop. What do you mean by "chalk"? There are lots of good stropping compounds out there. My favorite is Yellowstone.
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/flexcut-slipstrop-compound?gclid=CjwKEAiAuc_FBRD7_JCM3NSY92wSJABbVoxB-nx-5YxNlLVErVppYOwPV3TG9uGnoY_ZYysINptvbhoCfCLw_wcB
But just stropping isn't enough in the long term. You do really need to learn to sharpen if you want to keep that really keen edge. You don't have to go nuts on sharpening gear. A coarse/fine combination India oilstone is plenty good enough.
https://www.amazon.com/Norton-614636855653-8-Inch-Combination-Oilstone/dp/B000XK5ZDY
Other people may swear by a different method, but I've used oilstones for nearly thirty years now, and they work for me. And they're cheap. As a honing oil, I've settled on using lamp oil - I like it because it's cheap, thin, and cuts fast.
You're not going to damage the blade by take a stone to it, but you may dull it until you learn what you're doing. Dull is fixable by ... sharpening. The only way you'd be likely to damage the blade is if you take it to something electric, and don't watch for heat. But you don't need to use anything electric with a knife.
You'll also need a way to repair damage to the blade, which, at least in my experience, eventually happens. For that, a cheap combination diamond block from Harbor Freight will do the trick. Or you could just use coarse wet&dry sandpaper glued to a piece of MDF.
On strops: You don't need to buy a fancy strop. I made my first ones from old leather belts, glued to a piece of scrap wood or MDF. You should have two: One charged with the honing compound of your choice, and one plain leather to follow it and do the final polish.