(Part 2) Best products from r/windows

I can understand how this might not make sense for some, but here are a few reasons why I made the recommendation:

From a UX standpoint, going to Windows 8.1 will be a bit more jarring for a user coming from XP. Don't get me wrong, I'm a big fan of 8.1, but with the UX improvements made in Windows 10, it's hard to recommend 8.1 for devices other than touch-enabled ones.

I understand the risks that come with running pre-release OS code, however, with the rapid release cadence of the Technical Preview, it can only stand to get better over time.

Windows 7 is over 5 years old. Being an older OS, you run many risks in terms of 3rd party software and hardware support. Additionally, Windows 7 will go out of mainstream support in January 2015 and out of extended support in January 2020 (http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/lifecycle). If I were going to spend money, I would go for a newer OS.

By downloading the TP now, you can use the OS for "free" until it hits GA and dip your feet into the new OS without having to buy anything. If you don't like it, then buy 7 or 8.1.

However, I posted the original recommendation before you posted your system specs and it looks as though your CPU doesn't support the CPU extensions necessary for Windows 8+.

http://windows.microsoft.com/en-US/windows-8/what-is-pae-nx-sse2

Your only option is to buy Windows 7, and since you only have 2GB RAM, you should use the 32-bit version. Unless you need the Pro features, I would go with Home Premium, which can be found at the following links:

http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Premium-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00GOUBT6E/

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16832416805

Well, for one thing, I know /u/Steve2926, who is a friend of mine, and who helped me repeatedly in the past.

So I know about Easy2Boot, and the last thing I'll ever do will be to go behind his back, to create a utility that is more or less a clone of his even as he is still actively developing it, to try to undercut all the effort he has put in it. Sorry, but that's just not how it works.

Also, you can read my stance on multiboot in the Rufus FAQ. While I do very much understand why people think they absolutely need multiboot (and while some SysAdmins actually do), I also came to the logical conclusion that it is a complete waste of time for the vast majority of users, who only need to boot a single image right here, right now, and don't go around trying to boot multiple targets computers in the same day. Of course, the people who need multiboot exist, but they are a minority of users and I consider that, since it's very usually their job, and therefore should already have the knowledge required for it, they don't need to get their hand held to achieve the custom multibooting scenario they require (since every single multiboot scenario is different, and comes with its own problems).

So, sorry, but investing a lot of my development time, which is already very limited, to cater to what is actually a small number of people, when I can use it to add features that will be more beneficial to a much larger majority, doesn't seem like a wise investment of my time. As such, I will continue to do what I do and advise people interested in multiboot to look at the current existing solutions, one of which being Easy2Boot, or invest in something like an IODD drive, which is probably what they are really after (since only BIOS/UEFI level CD/DVD-ROM emulation can guarantee your ISO to boot as expected).

Also, it seems that your main issue here is that you don't trust the work that somebody else's did, mostly because their site doesn't use HTTPS, and also, because the application may be closed source, which is a bit silly IMO, especially as I know that Steve makes good use of FLOSS projects like Grub4DOS (even if the application itself might have parts closed).

Besides, as someone who, like Steve, has put a lot of effort in developing their software, I would say that, if you do have an issue with a utility, your first reaction should be to contact the author of that utility and hear what they have to say about it (Maybe Steve is working to add SSL to his website? Maybe he is also planning to do things that will ease your woes?), rather than ask a completely different software developer to go around the back of the first one, and develop a directly competing application. Al in all, what you are asking doesn't sound like a very nice thing to do, unless you have exhausted all other options...

It sounds like you're confused about a couple things and it doesn't sound like you're ready to build a PC. If you buy a PC, whether you buy it off the shelf at a computer store or have one shipped to you, it will come with Windows preinstalled and the Windows license will be part of the overall cost.

Windows 10 1903 is only 3.7GB. At 4.8GB, 1809 was too big for DVD-R/DVD+R discs. 1803 and 1903 are both small enough to burn to DVD. No, you do not need to buy a USB drive. However, Windows will install faster from a USB 3.x flash drive than a DVD-ROM. I recommend either the 32GB Samsung BAR for $10 or the 128GB model for $25. You don't even need 32GB, but the 128GB model is 50% faster. That might be important to you. I have the 32GB model, of the old style (they changed the appearance slightly) and Windows installation is like 20 minutes, and that's to a slow laptop hard drive.

But you're asking about paying, and I suspect you're not talking about USB hardware, but your Windows license. You can install the Windows ISO via direct download or an ISO burned to DVD or extracted to USB, and everything will go fine, but without a license, you won't be able to change the wallpaper (background will be black) and it will constantly notify/nag you about it. So that puts you in license violation, but your computer will still run and Microsoft won't bill you. (A nonzero number of people just deal with that.) To be compliant with Microsoft licensing, you can click the notification and it will help you buy a Windows license. You can do it right through the Windows Store, which would be the easiest way. (You can also use the Windows Store to buy your way from Home to Pro.) You can buy a physical copy at Best Buy or a similar store and input the code where instructed.

Happy to help with any other questions. I'll be here for the next hour or so.

Best bet is to just buy an OEM copy and do a clean install of Windows. Like I mentioned before, unless you plan on joining the PC to a domain, using group policy, etc. then Pro is just a waste of $40 over Home Premium.


http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Professional-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00H09BOXQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1396624323&sr=8-2&keywords=windows+7


http://www.amazon.com/Windows-Premium-System-Builder-Packaging/dp/B00H09BB16/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396624323&sr=8-1&keywords=windows+7



Or if you want to go to Windows 8.1, I'd recommend that. It's a very stable and fast OS, and is a huge improvement over Win7 despite the internet nay-sayers. Also, the "full" copies of Win8.1 costs as much as the OEM copies of Win7. (Full=transferable license, OEM=license tied to one machine and non-transferable)


http://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-Windows-8-1-Full-Version/dp/B00EDSI7QO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396624517&sr=8-1&keywords=windows+8.1

Not exactly what you're looking for but I have one of these and love it: https://www.amazon.com/Zalman-ZM-VE400-Drive-Enclosure-ZM-VE400B/dp/B00CP5UVQQ

It's an external drive enclosure, you supply the drive. What's unique about it is that it can be used as either an hdd or an optical drive, or can be both at the same time.

It works independently of your OS (that means it works equally well with Win, Linux, Mac, etc..., set it up as an optical drive (ODD mode) and when you plug it in to a USB port, it appears as an external, bootable CD/DVD drive. Mine has a 160GB hdd in it that let's me store hundreds of ISOs and I can load any one of them to boot the machine. It's more expensive than a USB thumb drive, but also significantly more versatile.

I used to have stacks of ISOs laying around, now all of my ISOs are on the Zalman.

There's no setup involved to add a new ISO like with YUMI and unlike YUMI it can be used with ANY ISO, simply copy the ISO to the ISO folder on the drive and it's now available to be used. I've even been able to load floppy disk images!

The usb wifi thing I have (cheap one off amazon) https://www.amazon.com/Belinda-150mbps-Wireless-Adapter-Antenna/dp/B00S7PO3L2

It came with a cd and it installed Realtek rtl8188cu which manages the connections (you can switch it off to manage with windows) but it didn't work either way.

I'm not around right now but I'll try that tomorrow. It seemed like such a simple thing but it's being a pain haha.

It said on the package it was compatible with XP (but who knows?).

Thanks for your help.

Picture I snapped earlier: http://imgur.com/KTNWIUZ

I replaced my 3-year-old laptop with an XPS 18 a few months ago. I didn't have as much need for mobility as you, but I've been surprised how often I've used the mobility. Another plus is that the XPS 18 screen has excellent viewing angles compared to my old laptop -- you can view it from nearly any angle without weird color distortions, which is nice when sharing with my wife.

I've used it for photoediting (latest Photoshop) with no problems. FYI, I'm using the Core-i5 version.

You mentioned "connect a second monitor or projector". The XPS 18 does not have a VGA or HDMI connector. In fact the XPS 18 has only 2 USB (3.0) and one microSD slot, that's it (no ethernet/rj-45 jack either).

For external video, I bought a USB3.0-to-HDMI adapter which works fine. Specifically the EVGA UVPlus+ 39 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008BUIKD0/)

For large file transfers (the built-in WiFi is only 150mbps) I bought a USB3.0-to-Ethernet(Gigabit). Specifically the Anker 68UPGGBTA-BU (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0ABQLM/)

You should be able to, but anything could go wrong. If there's anything I've learned in my sixteen years of working with computers, it's backing up valuable data no matter what. Personally, I use an external hard drive to manually back up my data. Compress what you can to save space, unpacking in your new computer or OS may take more time, but this will help keep your data organized and secure. I use WinRAR ($6.00 - $21.00 USD). You can add a recovery record with WinRAR to recover files in the event of corruption*.

Backing up data manually isn't usually the prefered method, but I find it to be the most secure. My Seagate 5TB external drive ($129.99 USD) has been very reliable. I can give you tips on backing up data if you are unsure where to look, or what to back up.

• Recovery records do not guarantee recovery in all cases. Adding a recovery record will increase an archive's size anywhere from 7-10%. WinRAR is technically free, paying for a licanse only removes the nag dialog.

how much less secure is windows ME or 98 than XP

if you had to choose between living with one of those three OS's which one would be the most sound

also i did find a specialty model that dell used to sell on their site that has XP pro on it

https://www.amazon.com/DELL-2R2R3-LATITUDE-E5570-Laptop/dp/B01BVX9334/ref=sr_1_23?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1493420521&sr=1-23&refinements=p_n_operating_system_browse-bin%3A562222011

decent model, but so far thats the closest ive found to what im looking for

I don't plan to only have XP on it, i plan to dual boot XP and 7 or possibly 10

Bit late, but yes!

I use a KORG nanoKONTROL2 with Power Mixer by Actual Solution. You can buy them both here.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Korg-NANOKONTROL2-BK-Channel-USB-Controller/dp/B004M8UZS8

http://www.actualsolution.com/power-mixer/

It works brilliantly, you can bind each program to a slider or knob to change volume, balance etc.

I'm honestly quite surprised you have no CD drive in your computer. Is it custom-built? (The Asus Z170I is a motherboard, not a computer, which is why I ask.)

If you happen to have a floppy drive on your computer (unlikely) and the drivers are small enough to fit on a floppy disc, you could perhaps copy them onto such a disc and use that.

Otherwise, your best bet will probably be to install a CD drive, at least temporarily. Another option is taking the hard drive out, connecting it to another computer (via a USB enclosure such as this one - or if you choose another one, make sure it's for 3.5" SATA disks), copying the LAN driver installation files onto the disk, then connecting it back up to the original computer and installing it from there.

Crossing my fingers for you.

[edit: Removing extraneous word.]

What about the passwordresetkey? It's $22 on amazon and it's basically a bootable USB drive that can strip the password from any user account. Here's an amazon link. (also as others have said, make sure to clone the disk just in case some encrypted files get destroyed).

(an amazon link https://www.amazon.com/Recovery-Password-Better-Windows-Versions-7/dp/B01BO6604S).
I believe LinusTechTips made a video about it a while ago.

Sorry for your loss, I wish you the best of luck.

I'd look at the Sony movie editing software. They have two lines of software: Sony Movie Studio and Sony Vegas. Movie Studio is mostly for home use, family videos, youtube clips, etc. Vegas is the professional edition. Here is the full feature comparison

Movie Studio Platinum is only $45 and probably the best 'bang for the buck': http://smile.amazon.com/Sony-Movie-Studio-Platinum-Download/dp/B00I3MSBC6

And yes you can do the 'green screen' effect with all editions including the Movie Studio one. Look for a green screen backdrop on Amazon.

You can download free trials of all the different versions. I highly recommend you do that first to see if it fits your needs: http://www.sonycreativesoftware.com/vegassoftware

If you are looking for freeware, here is a list of some and brief reviews: http://bedroomproducersblog.com/2016/01/21/free-video-editing-software/

In my experience (which is admittedly pretty limited), if it doesn't say, and it's less than $10, its usually passive. I've found that if I want to connect more than 3 monitors, any adapters used have to be active (I have no idea what that actually means though). The only thing that's giving me pause here is that you said it was working for you before and the only thing that's changed is the software. This is my best guess, but I wouldn't say I'm confident, and I don't want you to spend $20 on a hunch of mine if it's just going to be a waste of money.

My suggestion would be to buy this adapter, but if you have any other ideas, I'd say try those first. Best of luck!

There is something wrong with your PC.

I run a WAY slower processor and Windows 10 64 bit works perfect, great speed and performance.

That being said, I do agree with /u/satysin You need some more RAM (plus your RAM amount is odd; Due to dual channel support, always try 1 x 2 or 2 x 2)

A quick Amazon search shows you can get a Crucial 8GB Kit for $69.49 which would make your performance much better. I imagine you are using a SSD, right?

- Note I searched for DDR3 RAM. You are going to have to check compatibility with your motherboard.

I had this same problem. A fresh installation of windows fixed it for me.

On the other hand, the problem is most likely the converters you are using. They are known to cause issues. If a fresh windows installation doesn’t fix it, I recommend buying an active converter like this one. Read the description on the page for more info.

I can't seem to find any, but you are right, they used to exist

IMO you'd be better off just grabbing a copy of 8.1 and using that

You could look for something like "Windows 8.1 for System Builders" or something like that. IIRC, You don't get support from Microsoft, which drops the price a bit.

Here's a link.

Did a little more reading. Turns out, the licensing is a little different. You're not allowed to run this copy of the OS for personal use. It is intended to be installed by an OEM (or "system builder") and then sold to an end-user with the computer it is installed on. *wink wink*

this is because you need the actual Microsoft Wireless Receiver for wireless play on Windows (retails for about $10, can probably find one on Amazon for around $4 like I did), and will NOT work on regular bluetooth receivers

amazon.ca are out of the official ones at the moment, not sure about US site (https://www.amazon.ca/Microsoft-Wireless-Receiver-Certified-Refurbished/dp/B07GC89SB5/ref=sr_1_23?keywords=microsoft+wireless+receiver+for+windows&qid=1573234626&sr=8-23 )

but the generic ones also work and there are tons of those available

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00H09BB16/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1395749393&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

If you are talking about a pirate version then this should help: http://www.amazon.com/Windows-8-1-System-Builder-64-Bit/dp/B00F3ZN2W0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1382731178&sr=8-2&keywords=windows+8