(Part 2) Best products from r/woodworking

Trying to stick with Amazon...

General: do not get no-name generic Chinese tools. These will fail in no time.

Cheap tools are the more expensive. Partly through the damage they cause and the time they waste, and partly because you're going to throw them away and get the good ones anyway eventually.

Get some good screwdrivers. Yellow plastic handles with rubber grips. Stanley used to be good, but apparently not any more. Most screwdriver sets contain more screwdrivers than you need. Klein seems to be the brand to get now, but they're quite expensive. I'm not a fan of multi-bit drivers, but this one looks pretty good and you can't beat the price: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-32477-Screwdriver-Driver/dp/B0002RI5EY/

This looks like a superb set, but at $60 it really eats into your budget: http://www.amazon.com/Klein-Tools-85078-Cushion-Grip-Screwdriver/dp/B000ABADXI/

Saws: Get the Japanese pull saws. I like my Ryoba. There's a plastic-handled version at http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3/ that's pretty good. The one that abnormal_human linked to is an excellent choice. I would go with that. In fact, it's going on my wish list.

Power tools: You won't regret getting a 14 or 18-volt DeWalt electric drill. There are a couple of 18-volt tools on sale at Amazon right now. Don't argue; just get one. Don't forget drill bits. I like the cobalt, but Titanium is good.

I wouldn't bother with any other power tools; the good ones cost money and the cheap ones will only bring you grief.

Do this: buy a cheap but complete set of HSS bits. As they wear out, replace them one by one with cobalt. I got mine at Costco. I didn't see any on Amazon.

Get a tape measure. I wouldn't spend $25 if money is an object. This is probably the single-most important purchase.

Get as many clamps as you can afford. Not metal C-clamps; those are for metal working. Irwin quick-grip or clone and Jorgensen or Bessey bar clamps are your best value here.

Chisels: I'm not sure you need these for a minimalist wood shop, but if you get them, get a 1/4" and 1/2" chisel. That's all you really need. abnormal_human linked to a pretty good sharpening stone. Japanese chisels are the best, but they'll bust your budget, and until you learn to sharpen them well, they'll be a waste of money. Just get a cheap Stanley or DeWalt set. Expensive chisels will come pre-honed. Cheap ones you should hone for best results. You need to learn to hone them anyway.

Don't spend $50 on tweezers. But get a good pair at your local drug store and get a pair with the longest, sharpest, pointiest working end you can find. And a magnifying glass so you can see the splinters.

Get a 12" combination square. Don't get an expensive one, but don't get a no-name tool either. Some of them have a built-in level which you will never use.

Get a large carpenter's square. They're cheap.

I wouldn't get a card scraper. They're nice, but hard to sharpen and you really need a burnisher ($22) to do it properly.

Consider buying the hardware to build a good workbench. And by that, I mean a good bench vise. A very good one can run you around $200, but this one looks pretty good for $21: http://www.amazon.com/Olympia-Tools-38-736-Hobby-WoodworkerS/dp/B002I2KFMG/ and $66 will get you this very decent one: http://www.amazon.com/Woodstock-D4026-Cabinet-Makers-Vise/dp/B005W16LVE/

ETA: If you still have budget left for power tools, a random orbital sander is nice and not too expensive. I'm using a borrowed Ryobi and I have had zero issues with it. (I'm not normally a fan of Ryobi, but this one is pretty good. http://www.amazon.com/Factory-Reconditioned-Ryobi-ZRRS290-5-Inch-Random/dp/B001HTPSKK/

Finally: a cheap Wixley or iGuaging digital caliper is a good investment. Within a week of buying one, I was wondering how I'd survived so long without it.

This is just my experience (~2yrs woodworking) but it might help you. You hear opinions often of people way more advanced and while they can be very accurate, they also are much more sensitive to the finer details that aren't as important right now for us.

I went with the Stanley 4 for my 1st and if I could do it again I would go probably go Stanley Jack instead. They're both super comfortably priced (the jack spiked for the holidays but it'll drop in a week or two, use this to check the price. Those are more than high enough quality for our skills. It's hard to justify the price of a premium plane (LN/V) when starting out.

YES they are nice and incredible quality and will last generations, but it's fun to learn on something you aren't afraid to mess up but that also has some quality to it (yes, it will take some tune up, but it's really fun to learn, scour youtube). I know people will rag on the modern Stanleys, but I absolutely love mine. I'll be going Veritas/LN when the time is right.

Finding an old one to refurbish can be overwhelming especially when starting out. There's a ton all over the place and it's hard to know what to look for and what is the right condition it should be in etc —if anyone wants to chime in here; please do.

That's it from me, good luck!

I recommend going slow with hand tools. Buy them one or two at a time, and then learn to use, sharpen, and care for those before buying more. This will help you get the best stuff for you while spending as little as possible. Let your projects guide your tool purchases.

Amazon isn't a great place to buy hand tools. Most people shop at either Lee Valley, Lie-Nielsen, or eBay for planes, chisels, saws, rasps, etc. That said, there's a surprising amount of stuff you'll need that's not the tools themselves. Personally, I wouldn't want to saddle myself with an inferior tool just to use a gift certificate.

Anyways. Stuff you SHOULD buy on amazon:

Hand Tools

• A card scraper. Do your research--they're tricky to sharpen, but they're miraculous things. I like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Bahco-5-Inch-474-125-0-80-Cabinet-Scraper/dp/B0001P0PHW/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1407859293&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=bahco+card+scraper
  
• Baby's first hand saw: http://www.amazon.com/Tajima-Japan-JPR-SET-Rapid-Blades/dp/B0008KLNSA/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1407859464&sr=1-3&keywords=dozuki
  
  Clamps
  
  
• Amazon is a decent place to buy clamps unless you're into the HD/Lowe's arbitrage thing. There's good advice on what clamps you need here: http://www.thewoodwhisperer.com/videos/the-big-squeeze/
  
  Measuring/Marking
  
  
• A solid combination square like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Starrett-11H-12-4R-Combination-Square-Wrinkle/dp/B0002CSBNO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1407857853&sr=8-2&keywords=starret
  
• An inexpensive marking knife: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00002X201/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Your first festool: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UKRNG2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• I have some crown marking gauges from Amazon, but the jury's still out. I think I'm going to end up deciding that they're junk. They are cheap and will get you going, though.
  
  Sharpening Gear
  
  
• You can easily spend way more than $300 on a sharpening setup. Do your research. Most of the stuff you'll need can be found at Amazon.
  
• A good starting point sharpening stone: http://www.amazon.com/King-47506-1000-Combination-Waterstone/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407858723&sr=8-1&keywords=king+stone
  
• Training Wheels: http://www.amazon.com/Robert-Larson-800-1800-Honing-Guide/dp/B000CFNCKS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1407858827&sr=8-1&keywords=honing+guide
  
  Consumables
  
  
• Wood glue--TiteBond II is what "everyone" uses. TiteBond III is more waterproof and gives you a longer open time
  
• Sandpaper
  
• Mineral spirits
  
• Finishing supplies
  
  Safety Gear
  
  
• The best splinter removal tweezers: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EMYHA8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• Band aids: http://www.amazon.com/Band-Aid-Brand-Adhesive-Bandages-Comfort/dp/B0047ITQ42/ref=sr_1_5?s=hpc&srs=2582875011&ie=UTF8&qid=1407859147&sr=1-5&keywords=band+aid+sheer+strips
  
• Safety Glasses, Hearing protection (if you plan to use power tools), Respirator (if you plan to make dust), etc.
  
• Broom, dustpan, brush.
  

I've bought several things from Amazon for the shop, and they're just the sorts of things that /u/abnormal_human suggests; Woodcraft also sells through Amazon, so you can get some decent hand tools that way, but that's not really "amazon" per se. For a recent birthday my wife went a little nuts on my Amazon wishlist and I received two waterstones, a lapping plate, and this shoulder plane - very extravagant gifts.

Amazon is also a pretty good place to shop for some woodworking machinery if you want to buy new and especially if you happen to have Amazon prime; free delivery on a drill press or a band saw can be kind of a big deal. Those are on my "dream shop" wish list...not going to happen any time soon, but if I can't dream on the Internet...where can I?

Another neat thing that I didn't know about until recently is camelcamelcamel which is an amazon price tracker. Companies adjust their retail price on amazon all the time, and you can set thresholds at which you would like to be notified. For example, here is the price history for the drill press I linked above. Helps to see if it's a good time to buy, or if you should maybe wait.

Have fun!

Woodpecker makes super nice stuff but they are hilariously expensive, I think a lot of it is because they tend to produce stuff in small production runs and don't really have the volume to keep prices down. Wood is gonna move over time and even a harbor freight caliper can measure more accurately than I can cut something anyway. Woodworking isn't machining, stuff doesn't have to be accurate to a thou.

Incra and Kreg have some marking tools that are very good and much more reasonably priced than woodpecker. I use this thing more than pretty much any other marking tool in the shop.

Amazon has nice straight edges that are guaranteed straight to within good tolerances. I have a couple and they are dead straight measured against a laser and my table saw.

Squares are easy to check, just use a known straight edge like your table saw, scribe a line, flip the square and if its off it will be obvious. I buy squares from harbor freight, check a few in the store to find one that is accurate. An expensive square or straight edge is gonna get screwed up eventually when I inevitably drop it or bang it on something, and with harbor freight I just take it back and get a new one.

Rockler has some house brand stuff like their wheel gauge that's pretty good.

The best marking knife I have owned is a chip carving knife I bought at a flea market. Speaking of which, flea markets, garage sales and swap meets are good places too, buy old quality stuff cheap and restore it.

^This. I find Paul Sellers to be an amazing resource on how to do woodworking both incredibly well, and very cheaply. I wish that I had found his videos earlier, I could have saved quite a bit of money.

Figure out what level of woodworking you want to do. For really fine furniture / cabinetry / joinery, you will need to spend a fortune on machines to accurately process wood to this level. With just a few hand tools, you can produce the same quality or higher, it just takes more time and skill.

I personally have gone the hand tool route, and would highly recommend it. My first project has been a Roubo style workbench, which has been an amazing journey for me, because I have had to figure out how to sharpen, set up, and use my planes, chisels, etc. Even without the bench, I am still able to use my tools to do all sorts of woodworking projects - it's just a bit more time consuming to always be jury rigging my clamping to make plane stops, etc.

Try watching some videos, to see what can be made easily with a small number of tools. For example, a Joiner's Mallet, or a Wallclock. I started with just some cheap chisels, a piece of glass, and some sandpaper (80, 220, 500, 1000, 1500, 2000 grit) and practiced chisel sharpening until I could get a really fine edge. Then I was ready to buy a cheap mallet and saw and start practicing dovetails](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OCYjoj6cfno). This is something you could do all day long, in pine or oak trim board, in a small space. If you decide this is something that you really like, then look at buying more tools to be able to take on new projects! Another great, simple project might be to carve spoons, either with a gouge and spokeshave or an axe and knife.

There are going to be varied answers, and it really depends on what you want to do and how much you want to spend.

I am an amateur but I'll give you my two cents.

Personally, thinking of staying cheap, I would say larger hand saw to cut big pieces, smaller precision hand saw, CLAMPS, mid-sized hand plane, set of 3 chisels, and sander... keeping it super cheap... a sanding block instead of electric orbital sander. Maybe a miter box too.

The specifics and the whys:

$11 - Hand Saw to cut larger pieces you get. No need for a table saw right away.

$20 Precision saw - I like my double-sided japanese Ryoba. It was cheap, cuts really well and has both end grain and cross-grain teeth. I use this for cutting precision joints.

$30 Clamps - Always very useful. I bought THIS SET to start. Move up to Jorgensen or Bessie bar clamps when you have some dough. Bar clamps are superior in clamping pressure, but you can get most stuff done with the quick grips.

Plane - some people would disagree, but you can get a $15 or $20 Stanley number 4 which can act as your jointer to get a board flat and smoother. If you are just getting home depot wood then might not be useful yet.

Chisels - Basic cheap set from HD. Start slow. You can shave a little off to make your joints fit.

Sander - to keep it super cheap. Sandpaper and your hand. Then block sander.. then orbital sander if you want to spend some money.


I had less than this and it got me by on my few first projects. $80 bucks or so without a plane. Very basic. Other than that... you will need at least 2 sawhorses or a table. A table with a good vise or clamping surface makes your life way easier.

*edit for formatting

Of course! Happy to help!

A shop vac is going to help with some of the dust but a full on dust collection system will dramatically change the way you work. Harbor Freight actually sells a dust collector that is well worth it. Like $160 with their 20% off coupon. Tons of content creators and other videos/articles about the HF Dust Collector and modifications people have made. Then using 4"PVC to run piping along the walls and the 4" dust collection flex hose to your tools.

Also, you can look into an air purifier for the fine dust as well. I've heard alot of good things about the WEN brand 3-Speed for the price point.

Keep an eye out on craigslist and facebook marketplace as well. I've purchased almost all of my powered tools second hand and they've held up great. You can even set up alerts to your email for certain phrases such as "planer", "jointer", "lumber", etc...

Regardless of whether you take an apprenticeship or attend a college program, I would highly recommend expanding your knowledge on woodworking. There are five basic books I could not have survived without.

"Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking" by Tage Frid - This is for a box set of Tage Frid's three books. I bought them separate, but one link was easier than three links. You can buy these off of Amazon or eBay for quite cheap if you're a smart shopper.

"Understanding Wood: A Craftsman's Guide to Wood Technology" by R. Bruce Hoadley Edit: Recommended for a better understanding of the materials you're working with.

"Identifying Wood: Accurate Results With Simple Tools" by R. Bruce Hoadley Edit: Recommended because as a carpenter or woodworker, you should be able to identify most common wood types.

If you're just beginning and don't want to spend the $100ish it would cost for all of these, start with Tage's first book. "Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking: Joinery: Tools and Techniques". It will teach A LOT about design and wood in general, which will help you when applying for apprenticeships and/or carpentry/cabinet-making school.

It should be noted, these are textbooks for the most part and as such, read like one. If you're fresh out of high school, it should be easy to resume an old studying routine; if not, I suggest coffee, a chair that's comfortable and a notebook for note-taking. Seriously.

Dust Containment, Dust Collection, Dust Filtration.

First, go to any big box store (I think even walmart may have it) and get a roll of sheet plastic. Try to get at least 6mil thickness. Attach this to the bottoms of the joists and subfloor. Be sure to go up in between the joists to seal that off too. Staples work really well, especially if you reinforce the edge of the plastic with a piece of duct tape on both sides. Wherever your door is going to be, overlap to pieces by about 12-18" to create a usable door flap.

Second, (if you don't already have one) get some sort of dust collection. A simple shop vac will do, though I highly recommend that you get a large one with a 2 1/2" hose as well as some sort of dust separator or you will be buying vacuum bags and filters like crazy.

Finally, get the Wen 3410 for $125. It has plenty of air movement and at full speed will cycle the air in a 20x20 room something like 7 times per hour I think. It's also quiet. The unit is identical to the Rikon and a couple other units at a much cheaper price.

The first two are the most important, but the last will greatly reduce the amount of dust that stays in the air, and more importantly, your lungs. A good respirator would also be a good investment as well. For less than $20, it's a good investment. I like the 3M 650x Quick Latch Respirator. I use one of these along with the P100 filters. If you have to go cheap on the last one, get a $20 box fan and a 20x20 furnace filter. That works decently too.

edit: I too work in my basement. I did the above and do not have problems with dust anywhere in the house, even right outside of my shop.

I don't mean a sharpening system like a buy this one this to sharpen your stuff like folks have for their kitchen knives.

I meant a method you have to keep your stuff sharp.

I started out using the 'scary sharp' sharpening method.

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Scary_sharp

Used a $3 tile from Home Depot and a set of sandpaper similar to this and used a honing guide like this one and then used Paul sellers techniques in this YouTube video

Also watch this Paul sellers video on preparing your chisels .

Scary sharp is great for beginner, and those that have little sharpening to do. The advantage and disadvantage is that you use up the sandpaper doing the sharpening. So the initial cost is low, but you need to keep paying for more it as your sandpaper supply runs out.

I lucked out and found a friend of a friend who gave me a pair of a course/fine combination oilstone similar to this. So I got a leather pad and stropping compound and then continued to use the honing guide and was very pleased with this result.

Now I'm pushing money towards getting a set of DMT diamond plates You want a course, fine, and extra fine. And lastly you want a 4000/8000 norton water stone.

This is what I meant by upgrading your sharpening system. All of these are options, and depending on your budget and needs, they can all work. Some advocate the buy once cry once mentality and just buy the last setup i talked about, but my progression has served me well enough that my shoestring budget allowed for continual progress, and also gave me the opportunity to cut my losses if I didn't use my chisels and planes as much as I do.

Hope this helps.

You need to be more specific. This community will always give advice to newbies but there are SOOO many different ways to work that we need to know what you think you might prefer.

Keep in mind that your opinions about how you like to work may change over the course of your adventures in woodworking.

Given that you have $100 at Amazon to spend and $100 cash to spend elsewhere here is what I would do: No matter whether you are going to be primarily power tool or hand tool, you will need sharp chisels. To sharpen chisels you will need a few things. This is a water stone. This particular stone is at two very frequently used grits. if you want to go over your amazon budget by $20 or so add this stone to the first one.

From there I would use some of your non amazon money to get this. This will help hold the chisels at the proper angle to get a good edge.

Finally we come to the chisels themselves. I would get a set that contains 1/4 3/8 1/2 and 3/4 inch chisels. I own this set which I like for the price but I am not in love with them like I am with the MK2 honing guide. To stay in budget perhaps you buy only one chisel to start practicing sharpening. I'd say get the 1/2 inch. It is a good balance of quality and affordability.

Keep in mind that all the gear in the world will not help unless you learn how to use it. Hit up youtube for DOZENS of how-to videos on sharpening.

All of those links above should come to about $220 before shipping.

Hands down the dewalt variable speed ROS
is your best bet. It's about $75 and for the money it is a work horse. I've literally have 100's of hours on mine and it is still running strong.

Granted Dewalt has some lemons, but if it works out of the box, you should be set. There are a number of positive reviews floating around the internet of the dewalt from people in the business that have put a lot of hours on it..

That's going to cover 95% or more of your sanding needs. The one trouble spot is corners; Your best bet is to avoid corners by disassembling the furniture. If you can't avoid them; I'd next recommend using some paint stripper and a scraper; or just a card scraper.

You could also get a 1/4 sheet sander which will get you closer to the corner, but it's not a great investment unless you are doing a lot of corner work. Also, it's not as quick as the ROS.

I have both models posted; I got the 1/4 sheet sander specifically to do corners/edges, and probably have less than 2 hours on it for that purpose; compared to 100's on the ROS.

Lastly; if you are painting it; I wouldn't worry too much about the corners; hit them up with some paper by hand to get through any layer of poly or laquer. The paint should cover the color difference pretty well.

In means of accuracy and size you probably can't beat the Dewalt DW745. I've had mine for 3 years and am still super happy with it. The guided fence is super easy to adjust and is always parallel to the fence.
The two downsides are the 20" rip capacity (24" would be perfect) and that the arbor is to short to use a dado stack.
There are enough work arounds for me to still be happy with the saw (router and circular saw) for dados i also often use a flat tooth saw blade and make more passes.

I bought a ryobi tableware initially and returned it after making 4 cuts... piece of shit!! Although I love my ryobi 18v one+ tools.
I bought the dewalt for 229 on sale at HD and love it!
EDIT: f****ed up formatting

I learned through the book Understanding Wood by Bruce Hoadley. This author is famous for the "Yep, it's wood!" meme. There is a lot of good info for free online, but a solid, trusted, and researched book like this one deserves the inch of space it takes up on your shelf.

The more you know about the material science of wood, the better your projects will be. Good luck!

I'm working on something like this now and it's getting me started for a significant amount less than $2k.

Power Tools

Delta table saw $550 with 10% off coupon. I've heard rumors of finding better deals on CL, but I've had no such luck.

This CMT saw blade. $37, far outperforms what you get stock without the price tag of a Forrest blade.

This Porter Cable 4 piece cordless set for $180. Spend more if you can but don't go overboard. The batteries are proprietary and will only last so long before going bad.

Dust collector: this shop-vac for $140 and about $30 in a 5 gallon bucket and a few parts to make a cyclonic separator.

Bosch RO sander $70. I grabbed this for the softer pad that prevents gouging. You can get replacements of different durometers as well.

Hand Tools

No. 33 bench plane $10 at full price.

Japanese hand saw for $10 on sale right now.

This set of chisels $55.

Accessories

$50 worth of Irwin quick clamps, it's enough for 4 total. This isn't anywhere near enough but it's good to get started somewhere.

$50 of measuring devices. I like to have a 25' and 15' tape measure, a basic tri-square, and a mortise marking gauge to get started. I use the ruler from the square for 90% of my measuring.

Dril bit set for $35. I replace the ones I use frequently with better bits over time, the rest are occassional use only and will easily last a lifetime.

Pneumatic (truly optional, but very useful)

Hitachi air compressor $200. I have the older oil-lube version of this that I much prefer, but they're harder to find now.

This HF brad nailer $20.

Numerous hoses, fittings, etc for the air compressor $30 or so. Depends on what your needs are.

So far that's around $1450 ($1200 if you skip the pneumatic section) and gives you plenty of room to add various accessories and consumables. I think the hardest part of this exercise is that it really depends on what you are making and what your goals are. My shop is very specific to the tasks that I do frequently and the goals that I have in mind for production.

Patience and practice my friend, and you'll get there. Bandsaws are amazing tools, very versatile, but can be fiddy to adjust and tune until you learn how, then they are a pleasure to use. I learned from books (pre youtube days) and can recommend Bird's book,https://www.amazon.com/Bandsaw-Book-Lonnie-Bird/dp/1561582891

can be had for less than $10, well worth it, I refer to it still. Good luck with your sawing......

I got the Irwin set off amazon here and they're $12 cheaper today than when I got them. They came pretty sharp out of the box but after sharpening I was extremily impressed. They've held their edge pretty well and the length is pretty excellent for chopping deep mortises. If you are a bit tight and can't stomach an $80 set of 4 chisels this is a great option. The handles may not last ten years of heavy use but they're designed so you can replace the handles with wood ones which you can make on your own which is handy.

Just got a notification from CamelCamelCamel and wanted to share:

Amazon has the Dewalt 735X Planer marked down to $530 right now.
https://smile.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Thickness-Package/dp/B003OX9KME/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Dewalt+735x&qid=1573819734&sr=8-2

This is a pretty good price on these new, normal price is around $650. They are very good planers and I love mine even though I haven't gotten to use it as much as I'd like. If anyone has been thinking about getting one, this might be the right time!

edit: swapped the link for an Amazon Smile one.

Someone just asked a similar question earlier this week. Their budget was only $20 but there are a ton of good ideas in that thread and you could just get him a few items.

The most popular item was the Incra Precision T-Rule and Incra has a quite a few other items that he may find useful (regular precision rule, bend rule, centering rule, protractor) and they all come in different sizes. If the 3" is too small, there is 6", 12" and 18". Just search Amazon for "Incra Rule" and you'll see them all. I've added the 3" T-Rule and Regular Precision Rule to my Xmas list. I've also added the 6" T-Rule and the protractor to my own "Wanted List" for a future purchase.

My recommendation in that thread was a woodworking calculator that computes within Feet and Inches down to 1/32. It does metric, areas, board feet, and more as well. Very useful tool that most people don't realize how much they would use.

And here's a link to the thread itself: http://www.reddit.com/r/woodworking/comments/2olpbx/best_woodworking_gift_for_under_15/

Clamps are important, and when it comes to clamps never buy an odd number. Get a mix of different types: quick grips are great for quickly clamping things together one-handed; f-style clamps are great for their reach and pressure, and pipe clamps are wonderful for their length flexibility and pressure. Down the line, consider panel clamps, band clamps, corner clamps and parallel clamps.

Get a speed square and a framing square. For the table saw, consider a digital relative angle finder like this. Get a tape measure and research how to use it effectively (eg why is the tab on the end loose). Learn how to mark wood accurately with a pencil, and then learn how to do it with a knife.

Get a set of inexpensive chisels and a mallet. Get a cheap block plane. Get a combination square. Get a shop vac and make sure your tools can connect to it.

Safety is of course top priority. Get good quality eye protection, respirator (even when using dust collection) and hearing protection (routers and planers are loud). Wear them every time.

For around the shop, make sure you put everything on casters because that perfect shop design you make on paper won't work in practice. Add more outlets and lighting. Build a good flat level workbench.

Just a few thoughts from someone who's been doing it for fun for over a decade. Not necessarily the right way for everyone, but those are what I wish someone had told me when I first started.

I've actually just got my first table saw this week as well. After doing a lot of research before putting it all together, here's what I've found:

Watch this video and there are several other good videos on YouTube:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lxRSarTJLMU

As far as the cast iron top, remove any oil with WD-40 or mineral spirits, then protect with Boeshield and a paste wax. Johnson seems to be the common choice, but any should do as long as it's silicone free.
Read this: http://lumberjocks.com/topics/105746 (Boeshield mentioned in replies 12 and 13)
Boeshield: https://www.amazon.com/BOESHIELD-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

You could also use a spray on dry lubricant like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Bostik-10220-Aerosol-Top-Cote/dp/B0000223UD

As far as waxing the blade, this link helped me realize I wasn't cleaning my blades on other saws and that would help a lot as well. It goes off topic but the first response mentions using a spray on "Topcote" like what I linked to just above on the blades after cleaning.
http://lumberjocks.com/topics/41371

For transparency sake: I haven't set it up yet. I'm picking up most of what I linked above today on my way home and I'll be doing all that stuff tonight.

Assuming you are starting from the ground up and need everything, it's going to be tight and you'll have to skimp in some places, but this is exactly what I would do. The grand total here is $5005.00 and that includes shipping on the big ticket items which is a few hundred dollars.

Table saw and related stuff:

[Grizzly G0715xp] (http://www.grizzly.com/products/10-Hybrid-Table-Saw-with-Riving-Knife-Polar-Bear-Series-/G0715P)

Freud Premier Fusion

[Freud SD208] (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-SD208-8-Inch-Professional-Dado/dp/B0000223O9/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395407011&sr=8-1&keywords=freud+sd208)

Gr Ripper 3d advanced (awesome on the router table too

Make your own ZCI's

Table Saw Total - $1,142

Jointer

Grizzly G0654 6" jointer (sell this on craigslist when you can upgrade to the 8". They hold their value really well and sell fast)

Jointer total $534.00

Planer

Dewalt DW734 - $399.99 most places. The 735 is nice, but not that much nicer. If I were to upgrade beyond the 734, I'd go for a 15" stationary unit.

Miter saw

Definitely go craigslist on this one. These things are a dime a dozen there. You can get a sliding 12" Dewalt/Makita/Ridgid, etc for around 250.00 to 300.00 Also pick up a decent Irwin Marples or Diablo blade

SCMS total - ~320.00

Bandsaw:

Craftsman BAS350. I own this. It's the SAME EXACT saw as the Rikon 10-321, just 200.00 cheaper. 8" resaw capacity and no stupid riser blocks to fuck up the geometry of your saw and make tensioning a nightmare.

Bandsaw Total - 620.00 with the Rikon resaw fence (bolt on) and a few timberwolf blades

Harbor Freight 2hp Dust collector, a lot of hoses, blast gates, and material to mod it to a 2 stage cyclone - 400.00

Router(s)

Bosch 1617 with both plunge and fixed bases

MLCS 15 bit set. Not the best, but better than absolutely anything else in this price range. Replace bits with Whiteside or Amanna when you have the cash.

Router and bits total 200.00

Also make your own table and fence to fill the empty space in your table saw.

Sanding

{Milwaukee 6021-21 Random Orbit Sander. Best ROS on the market until you go Festool/Ceros

Some klingspor abrasives in different grits

Shop vac bucket max and a 5gal bucket - perfect for sanders

Ridgid oscilating spindle sander. This is a tool I could definitely not live without after owning.

Sanding total - $320.00

Drill Press

Porter cable floor press

Also get the Porter Cable Forstner bit set and some decent brad points/twists)

Drill Press/bits total - ~$420.00

Clamps

Jorgensen Cabinet Master 4pc Set and various other bar clamps. The Pittsburgh ones from HF are pretty good

Clamps total ~ $250.00

Misc stuff

Woodriver bench chisels.

A vintage stanley block plane, and a jack plane

some plywood/melamine, and cheap hardwood and hardware to make a cross cut sled, router table/fence. drill press table, a workable bench/outfeed table and a grizzly woodworking end vise

Misc total - ~400.00

The Samurai Carpenter has an explanation of these saws that I've found helpful. He also uses them frequently in his YouTube videos so there is a ton of inspiration.

https://youtu.be/Ct4S6DGqGkY

I recently saw a video from Jonathan Katz-Moses with some helpful tips.

https://youtu.be/9eLdh5IAhXA

Here's the saw I bought. It does rip cuts and cross cuts and has a replaceable blade. It's also a manageable enough size that I can easily control it. I bought a (more expensive) saw for a friend of mine who admired my saw and enjoyed using it and his saw has a longer handle with a more traditional wrapped handle. I prefer my smaller saw. I think my friend's saw is basically wall art at this point.

Gyokucho Razorsaw Ryoba Saw 180mm No. 291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CEF5HM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FDN3DbTRXDKPW

These are great saws. I just got a lot of practice with mine building a new workbench. They take some practice so get one and just start cutting stuff. They cut remarkably fast and easy.

I think a gulfstream G650 is a nice starter plane.

Joking aside: you'll want at least three planes-- block plane, #4, and #5. To get started, I don't think you can go wrong with a #5. Old stanleys are great and so are veritas and Lie nielsen offerings. Now....if you want to get the lie nielsen...i'd say go with the veritas bc 1) its a slightly wider blade, 2) you can use the same blade in nearly all of their bevel up planes 3) you can get them in PM-V11 which will stay sharper longer and 4) its a little more heafty and helps with plough through a little better and 5) I think the blade advancement is better on veritas bevel up vs lie nielsen bevel up. That being said, both lie nielsen and veritas are many times better than any other commercial new hand planes out there.

Other thing to keep in mind: ya gonna need to sharpen the blade. Norton kit is a good place to start. You'll need a way to keep the stones flat. You'll also want a strop with some kind of compound.

I think boiled linseed oil would be a good choice. Any finish will wear out over time but with BLO you can simply wipe a fresh coat onto the handle when it wears out. You could also shellac which can also be re-applied when it wares. Shellac won't offer as much protection from sweat though.

I have the 3M 6502 which I like. It's fairly inexpensive and seems to work well. Get some of the pink particulate filters for general woodworking and some vapour filters for finishing.

Look for hardwood dealers in your local area and see what they have. Some places will stock a huge array of exotics and others will stock next to none. If you only need a small amount you could try online hardwood retailers. I've also found eBay to be okay for smallish pieces of exotic or highly figured wood. Go to the Crafts>woodcrafts>wood/materials category and look there. Sometimes you can find good deals.

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.


2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.


$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.


$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.


$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.


$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.


$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.


$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.


$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.


$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.


$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.


$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.


$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.


$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.


$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.


Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

I highly recommend "The Workbench Design Book: The Art & Philosophy of Building Better Benches". It's a really fun and enjoyable read, even if you're not particularly interested in building a workbench. He's such an interesting thinker and researcher and this is probably his best work so far.

Ok, $100 isn't going to go very far, especially if you need everything, but here we go.

Whetstone - This is slightly better than the hardware store combination stones, but it's cheap, it's a water stone, and it's got a good grit combo.

Handsaw - Japanese style, cuts on a pull stroke, crosscut and rip teeth. I have this exact saw, still works pretty damn good after a dozen years of occasional use.

Beater chisels - Not the best steel, but a chisel is better than no chisel. You'll want at least 2 sets of chisels anyway - don't beat the hell out of your good set.

Block plane - Don't expect super high quality from Stanley anymore, but we've all got at least one of these little block planes somewhere.

And I'm $6 above the gift card budget. The chisels and plane will need some sharpening before use, but it's enough to get you started. You still need marking/measuring tools, a square, a work surface, clamps, vise, and obviously, some wood to sink your teeth into.

The Dewalt DW735 is my recommendation. I have used many floor model planers including by General, Grizzly, and some others. I have also used several of the bench top models, although not the cheaper Dewalt. Once I tried the DW735 at someone else's workshop, it blew me away. I bought one and have planed many types of wood with mine now including hickory, ash, maple, walnut, zebrawood, purpleheart, bloodwood, birch.

It does extremely well on the difficult woods like zebrawood which actually has grain sticking up both ways. None of the other planers I had tried worked very well on this, I would always get some tearout due to the weird grain pattern.

The other thing I was never able to do on other planers is plane thin pieces, on this I have planed pieces down to 1/8" without having to use another sled underneath (there are tricks you can play with laying the thin piece on another board when putting it through like a sled). I have also planed pieces up to 16/4 thick full width taking off 1/8"+ per pass. You will probably want to bolt it down to something, but I have run 12 foot boards through mine by holding it for the first few feet then going to the other side to hold up the finished end. It is expensive, but mine has absolutely worked like a charm. Also a little heavy for a benchtop, but I can pretty easily lift by myself, and it adds stability for when you do longer boards compared to other benchtops.

A few thing will give you excellent blade life for any planer. I check my wood very carefully for any foreign objects like staples nails etc. I cut 1/4" off both ends of the boards first because boards can stand up in dirty areas and get imbedded with dirt, metal shavings, gravel, etc before you get them or while you store them. Sometimes I wire brush the board surface if it looks dirty. Unless you are using especially knotty wood or plywood, the only real cause of knife nicks is from non-wood debris in the wood you are planing. I run on the slow speed setting even when roughing because the blades are removing less material with each cut (less stress on blade). The blade replacement is super easy on this planer too though for when shit does happen or they get dull.

I literally used a chainsaw on an ash tree and a hickory tree to turn them into boards. Probably a 10" hickory and a 16" diameter ash. Got several 10' sections from each. Cut it up with chainsaw into boards, let them dry, cut 6"-12" off the ends from splitting, then ran them all through this planer. After many other smaller projects and then nearly two entire trees, it was time to change the blades for the first time... definitely a workhorse that was worth what I paid.

The tables in this package are worth it in my opinion because they help reduce snipe. I get none to very little snipe. http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Planer-Package/dp/B003OX9KME/

Hey! So I am in the exact situation with a furnace, water heater, washer and dryer in the same room as my basement shop.i thought about sectioning off but it would be too much of a pain and not practical. I use a shop vac and dust deputy with every tool I can. I use the belt sander outside. And I've found it necessary to have a ceiling mounted air filtration system. I have [this one.](WEN 3410 3-Speed Remote-Controlled Air Filtration System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LPD9BDI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wL9LybJ2PNAA8) it works well and you can find it for around $100 if you look around.

Don't worry too much about the furnace. It won't start a fire or anything. I would highly recommend changing your furnace filter or at least checking it every 30 days. Run your air filter and the furnace won't get as dusty. I also recommend blowing the dust out of the furnace with air every year or so to avoid buildup. Good luck.

>I was looking for advice on what type of sharpening stones I should get?

Water stones or oil stones. Your choice. It's a completely personal preference and you really can't go wrong either way.

>Can I sharpen tools like a chisel, plane blade, cabinet scraper with the same set of stones?

Yep. Although cabinet scrapers I've never seen stones used. Just a flat block w/ sandpaper and a burnishing rod.

>Is it recommended to get a honing guide?

Depends on what you're sharpening. Honing guides help tremendously with chisels or any flat blade plane. They're not so useful on cambered blades.

>I'd appreciate a few suggestions. Thanks!

As an "all in 1 starter kit," Norton makes a great water stone kit that includes 220/1000/4000/8000 grit stones and a SiC flattening stone. Some people here and on lumberjocks swear by the "scary sharp" sharpening system, which is nothing more than varying grit sandpaper, some 3M spray adhesive, and a flat surface like a glass pane.

You can get a really nice contractor table saw for around $500. I have this one and I love it. Or a radial arm saw like this. There a a bunch of good brands out there. Just make sure you get a 12 inch blade.

Perhaps this will get me flamed here for doing things the wrong way but it's working for me on my table-less setup (currently making a router table and saving up for a table saw so I can avoid relying so heavily on these techniques in the future).

A table saw is probably what you need to do this properly but this is sort of a "poor mans fence".

My current workaround is to draw my cut line, and then clamp a straight edge ruler (or other material that's perfectly straight) 1" to the side. When I make my cut I know it will be perfectly straight if I keep the metal guide flush to the clamped piece the entire time.

This is also how I'm using my router with straight bits to make dado cuts (measure up 2 3/4" from the center line for my router guide)...I know there are probably better ways to do this but again, no table saw so I'm making due with what I know and what I've got.

• This might also be a decent purchase depending on your needs:
  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007K5HIFS/
  
  
• For fun, here's another similar item for converting a hand drill to a portable drill press:
  http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/
  
  
  Those are both probably tools/adapters which are not going to be better than a table saw or drill press but they're also appealing for those with limited budget or limited work space.

They're challenging but not impossible. If you've done the brick pattern one and you are satisfied with it, I'd say that you could do the Q-Bert one. I think the two hardest things for me were accurate planning for material (I had another reply here that goes into more detail) and actually getting the confidence to start; once you're doing the work, you can constantly refer back to his videos and basically see step-by-step how to do the things, and the steps make a lot of sense.

The one piece of equipment I would say is a requirement for this is a magnetic angle measure for your table saw (I have this one and it works well). And an accurate and sturdy rip fence that doesn't wobble. Two. The two pieces of equipment I would say are requirements. I mean, I personally wouldn't attempt this without my benchtop planer, but it's totally possible to use hand planes and/or sanders.

I just bought this Stanley Sweetheart low angle jack plane. It took an afternoon of tuning, but overall, I am impressed. It was about $100 less than the Lie-Nielsen. What's your opinion of the newer, better Stanleys? I think I read your review of that plane from about 4 years ago, but I think Stanley has been making improvements since then.

I have a set of DMTs. They're OK. I've had em for about 4 years and the super fine is starting to wear out.

If I had to do it again I'd get this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001DT1X9O/ref=s9_simh_gw_g469_i1_r?ie=UTF8&fpl=fresh&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=&pf_rd_r=KJ3KHD9VSF4GC8R1K6DF&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=6aad23bd-3035-4a40-b691-0eefb1a18396&pf_rd_i=desktop ( I have the king 6000 grit and it's awesome)

As well as one of these: https://www.amazon.com/HTS-131A0-Double-Diamond-Sharpening/dp/B00U1T2ZVM/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1474301532&sr=8-7&keywords=diamond+stone

The second one I realize is finer grit than a norton, but diamond stones with good lubrication tend to cut way faster than a norton stone.

Also, it will only set you back like $30 for the pair.

For rust prevention - I use Boeshield T-9 on all my iron tops (actually, on anything that rusts) - it is a good deal easier to put on, lasts longer than wax and is very effective.

I do use paste wax over the top of the T-9 to make it more slippery.

This is why I love /r/woodworking (one of many reasons). I had my mind set on the Norton starter kit based on some earlier advice on a thread here. I was chatting with some other folks who talked up the Worksharp system and got interested. Hearing both that I'll get stones anyways and that they'll be useful long term even if I go with a machined route someday is helpful.

Here's what I'm planning on instead of the Worksharp system.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000XK0FMU/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Alright I'll bite. Hand tool shop

Narex Chisels 48.99

stanley Jack plane 59.99

stanley Smoother 45.00

Stanley low angle Block plane 31.25

HF combo square 6.99

HF Mallet 5.99

Stanley jointer 150

Sharpening stone (water) 33

Panel saw 1 (cross) 19.50

Panel saw 2 (rip) 16.99

Marking gage 20

Dovetail saw 26.82

Vise 26.46

marking knife 9
Total cost so far: 500.97
shipping from ebay depends on where you are but shouldn't be more than $60 so we factor that in:
560.97

build your own bench (not going to take the time to go into details but it shouldn't cost more than $500 for materials
so now you have

999.03 left to get whever else you want (more marking gages? switch some of the above for better stuff? spoke shave? cabinet scraper? router plane? brace and bit?)

You could get better prices for the ebay stuff above if you were patient that's just what's out there right now. the above is more than enough to do 90% of handtool projects though. Just watch those compound curves ;)

I LOVE the Bosch 1617 kit. Lowes occassionally has it on sale for $189. There are a few others in that price range that are also worth it I believe.

Some Router tips:
1- NEVER buy a cheap one. An underpowered router, or one that isn't made true will ruin your project. As tempting as a $30 HF router is, all it will do is trash your work.
2- Get one where the fixed base has an adjustment from below the router. This will more easily allow you to make it into a router table down the line.
3- Get something that does a 1/2" shank. 1/4" shank bits ARE available for a lot of things, but you'll break them (and thus whatever they shoot off into, such as projects, tools, body parts) way more often.
4- Get A LOT of clamps. Don't rout anything where you're taking off a lot of material (such as a dado/rabbet) without it being VERY well clamped down. Err on the side of caution, routers can kick back light things really easily
5- This set of bits here: https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S is a good starting place. When you find yourself using one of those bits A LOT, invest in a Freud/Rockler/etc bit.

A mitersaw is probably going to be less accurate/repeatable than a table saw. One thing you can do is get a angle gauge for your table saw so you can actually dial in the 45 degree angle, chances are the indicator on your saw is off and causing the issue not the fact that you're using a table saw. The next thing I'd suggest is a sled for your table saw, which is pretty easy to make... if you're doing 45s for things like frames a sled like this would be useful as well.

I bought this MLCS set off Amazon as my starter set:

https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/

It's been fine - I'm now buying better quality bits when I know I need something and I've replaced a couple of these with nicer versions, but for a basic set this has been a good value for me.

I do have a copy of Bruce Hoadley's excellent [book] (http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Craftsmans-Guide-Technology/dp/1561583588/) on wood, but this online tool is quick and easy once you understand how it works. I have even used it successfully to demonstrate to customers that the reason their doors are "defective" is because they humidity in their house in Alaska in winter is less than 20% and there is nothing I can do to eliminate the wood movement.

I think Norton waterstones are one of the best values out there. You can get the four grits as combination stones (two sides with different grits on each side) to save even more:

https://www.amazon.com/Norton-Japanese-Style-Combination-Waterstone-8-Inch/dp/B0006NFDOY

https://www.amazon.com/Norton-Japanese-Style-Combination-Waterstone-8-Inch/dp/B0006NFDPI

Here's a video about using them:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UfRxMsTOOeE

You can definitely wood work in an apartment! I live in a high rise and it's my favorite hobby - you just have to adapt, and scale down what you make. I make a lot of boxes and other small pieces (stand for my iMac, shaver holder, drawer organizers, cactus planters, etc...)

My "workbench" is a small side table that I set up my miter box on top of. The miter box is screwed to a 14 inch 1x6 inch board, which I clamp to the table. I try to buy pieces of wood that are already the width I want, because ripping by hand is extremely difficult. I also try to work with pieces less than 1/2 inch thickness. I use a Japanese back-saw that has one side for cross-cutting and one side for ripping. It cuts through walnut like butter!

I also have a mini router table that I built with a kit for my Bosch Colt trim router, and a random-orbit sander. My regular vacuum is my dust collection.

Apartment woodworking is awesome because it forces you to focus on detailed, small projects, and adapt to the challenges of a limited indoor space. My friends ask my how I get my mitered corners so perfect...it's because I practice over and over and over again, and try different techniques (by the way even if you own a table saw, you should be cutting box miters with a chamfer router bit).

The first boxes I made sucked, but now I'm getting to the point where I'm actually excited to share my projects. If you manage your expectations and stick with it, apartment woodworking is a really fulfilling hobby.

I use the Oneida Cyclone on a 5gal bucket.


For a standalone, you could go cheap: http://imgur.com/a/qzjIa



Or this: http://www.amazon.com/WEN-3410-3-Speed-Remote-Controlled-Filtration/dp/B00LPD9BDI/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1458061256&sr=1-2&keywords=shop+air+filter

Neither is mine, but those could scrub the air well enough to help keep dust contained to that room and help clean it up during/after work. The big dust is messy, but the small dust is the health concern.

A whetstone sharpens by creating a slurry of abrasive material and water. Diamond sharpeners use the hardness of the manufactured stone to sharpen.

In my experience whetstones are far superior in sharpening, getting some good ones might bring you out of budget though, as they are about $30 for a 1000 grit and up to $80 for 6000 or 8000 grit.

They do sell two sided stones for about for $45 on Amazon

I use this one. It does a great job, but in my experience it helps if you are clean shaven. Throw some of these on it and you'll be hot to trot. I don't get any extra goggle fog than I do just wearing my goggles on their own.

Different types of benches lend themselves to different types of work. A really good book that talks about the way you go about deciding what sort of bench you want to build is Chris Schwarz's "The Workbench Design Book: The Art and Philosophy of Building Better Benches".

http://www.amazon.com/The-Workbench-Design-Book-Philosophy/dp/1440310408

For eye-candy and inspiration (and some instruction), there's the classic, "The Workbench Book", by Scott Landis.

Interesting read on the chisel. I was actually looking at these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000RG2Y56?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_act_title_2&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER


but they are plastic handle and made in China.. which Im not too excited about. Maybe it makes sense for me to just invest in a nice Stanley 750 1/2 inch vintage chisel on Ebay in really good condition and start with that?

I think a good budget entry would be sandpaper on a marble tile for rough stuff (e.g. 320 grit to establish a bevel) and then a combination water stone. Finish with a leather strop with compound. If you can scrounge a very flat tile and a scrap of leather and scrap of wood, that whole setup is $40. You should only need to break out the sandpaper occasionally. Your regular resharpening would be a few strokes at 1000 grit, a few more at 6000 grit, and a few on the strop. (Use the sandpaper-on-marble to flatten the waterstone occasionally.)

That waterstone won't last you forever, but it will be a good cheap introduction. And it's 2.5" wide, so plane irons are easier.

Schwarz has two workbench books and I have only read this one cover to cover and it has quite a few benches in there so it is quite possible that one of them had laminated dimensional lumber. The bench he feels is best suited for hand work is the Roubo that is featured on the cover and the legs for it are made from 6x6's that he found in the back of a big box store. I am in no way saying that you can't rip down 2x8's or 2x12's and laminate them together I am simply suggesting that buying lumber as close as you can to the proper dimensions for the legs and top ect. the less work it is, and imho makes for a better looking bench if not a more stable bench.

Oh yeah I'm sure he does. That probably makes all the difference in this kind of stuff. I've done endgrain with my dad's Ryobi planer with 2 flat blades and it works ok. Lots of tear out on the back end of course. I've got my eye on this with this sexy beast. mmmmmfff...

Are you meaning brand? or type?

I orginally started with the dozuki and ryoba from this store at amazon: http://www.amazon.com/Gyokucho-770-3600-Razor-Ryoba-Blade/dp/B000CEF5HM/ref=sr_1_1

For $20 each, they were fantastic - highly recommend trying one if you want an inexpensive trial with japanese saws.


After that, I moved on to toolsfromjapan.com - they've got a slightly better/more expensive range of saws - but you can still get a very good Gyokucho brand saw there for a very reasonable price. (About $40-50 each)

What kind of router did you get? And what is the collett size?

I bought this set from amazon and love it. It's got the basics you will need for starting out. And, as /u/snuffvieh said, get specialty bits as you need them. But get the quality ones, then.

As for a router table, I had a cabinet I made and put a router table top, Number 6 plan on this list on top of it. I took the drawer out of the top of the cabinet and put in a tip out. Not the best of plans, because shavings get caught in there really fast.

this drill press attachment looks like your best option for me. Since you are doing a grid a standard drill press will not work. I'd say its either this for $25, or a cnc for $2500.

http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA

Thanks! Does this saw look like something I should get first then that can pretty much do it all?

DEWALT 10-Inch Table Saw, 16-Inch Rip Capacity (DW745) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000HXT2N6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_I8vXDbJJCZ338

I like this one from 3m, it is inexpensive but i feel like it does a good job.

Pretty sure you want a 14" bandsaw.

I just got a copy of The Bandsaw Book out of the library after buying an old Grizzly on CL. I'm still happy with the saw, but I wish I'd read it first.

http://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1416019787&sr=8-2&keywords=sontax+drill

No comments on drill bushings, but I have something nearly identical to the linked guide, and with a better (corded) drill I think it'd be fairly accurate. I've only used it for rough work (deliberately). Might be worth considering. Certainly cheaper than bridge city stuff.

The Narex Premium chisels are often recommended on this sub as one of the best bang-per-buck sets available. They are in your pricerange. https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/narex-premium-bench-chisel-set-wooden-box.aspx

I personally got the 4-piece set here: https://www.highlandwoodworking.com/narex-premium-chisel-set-4.aspx and haven't found myself wanting for more.

I will note they are going to also require some sharpening stuff -- and that might end up costing you just as much as the chisels themselves. I picked up this set (https://www.amazon.com/Norton-Waterstone-Starter-Kit-flattening/dp/B000XK0FMU) and have been happy with it... though I wish I would have gotten a diamond stone for the coarse stuff (the narex chisels have good, hard, steel but take a bit of lapping to get that back flat...)

Some good suggestions, but this ruler would be my pick. It is constantly being used when doing precision work. Always in my pocket. Got my dad who is an old school woodworker one, and he loved it.

http://www.amazon.com/INCRA-TINYT03-Precision-T-Rule-3-Inch/dp/B002GU68LM/ref=pd_cp_hi_3

I would probably try to make a jig that incorporates a drill guide.

Basically, use scrap wood to knock together some kind of cradle to hold your blank perfectly horizontal, then find a way to mount the drill guide onto the cradle, rigidly and at perfect right angles, then drill away.

Pull saws are by far the best option. I got a Shark pull saw and have had some good results with it for relatively cheap.

For true minimum you can use a hand saw, a drill, and something to support the wood, like some buckets or a pair of saw horses.

For angles, use a speed square or sliding bevel and kids protractor.

Amazon has the Dewalt 735x for $544.59. The X is the one with the in/outfeed tables and an extra set of blades. It is a very good thickness planer. There is also a third party helical head for it.

>From what you're saying, if I understand correctly, the best type of joinery on a table top is none? Just a slab?

Pretty much. Wood grows and shrinks across the grain, and tabletops tend to be wide-ish panels. You could see a 1/2" of difference in width change with the seasons on a decent-sized tabletop. It depends on the wood, and whether it's been flat-sawn or quarter-sawn. That amount of movement makes adding any sort of frame a difficult/impossible proposition, and is also the reason why you don't just glue down a tabletop to the legs/apron.

Here's a decent article about the topic: http://www.thisiscarpentry.com/2010/09/03/moisture-content-wood-movement/

Hoadley's book is fantastic and goes into great depth about this and other issues - but it's probably overkill if you're not milling your own lumber.

Yes, double down and go for the larger size. You won't regret it. This is what I found to be a great set. I still have, and use these stones. They're fast cutting and quick to flatten.
http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Waterstone-Starter-Kit-flattening/dp/B000XK0FMU

3M 6502QL Rugged Comfort Quick Latch Half Facepiece Reusable Respirator.

I could never get into using the disposable dust masks, so I was honestly surprised how much I liked this one.

As far as fogging up glasses, I haven't had any issues (granted only wearing safety glasses), but it is designed so the air you exhale goes downward specifically to reduce fogging issues.

And I keep my beard shorter, so I can't speak to how well it works with a larger beard.

I use Boeshield T-9 pretty frequently. It does a fine job. Of course it would be a bit time consuming to treat everything with t9 everyday. So I also keep scotch brite pad with my gear to knock off the rust that inevitably appears here and there.

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-12-137-No-62-Angle-Plane/dp/B002B56CUY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466791378&sr=8-1&keywords=Low+angle+jack+plane

I know I would love something like this.

I recommend that you spend the extra $34 and get the following setup.

http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Waterstone-Starter-Kit-flattening/dp/B000XK0FMU/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1448929859&sr=1-3&keywords=waterstone

On a honing guide like this one.

http://www.amazon.com/Rockler-Honing-Guide/dp/B001DSXGM2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1448929972&sr=1-6&keywords=honing+guide

You need to check to make sure that the distances on the packaging really gives you the proper angle. In the end I purchased a Vertitas guide

I also have a basement workshop but for sanding/staining/finishing I just do it outside. I have a 2HP Harbor Freight dust collector with 1 micron bag, and I have one of those $140 Wen 3-speed air purifiers which runs most of the time (and which is a purchase I highly recommend!), but the basement only really sees typical sawdust from miter saw, table saw etc. I'd love to be able to do sanding down in the basement but the dust it produces is just way too fine to risk it circulating around indoors.

Edit: link to the air purifier I referred to. Running this thing for a few hours each evening has made such a difference to the air quality down there

Two books your brother might love are Understanding Wood by Bruce Hoadley (the "Yep, it's wood" guy), and Workbenches by Christopher Schwarz. Both are chock full of phenomenal information about how wood works and how to work it to suit your needs. I would even recommend the second one to someone who didn't want to build a bench, simply because it gives so much insight into the how and why of woodworking in general.

new guide blocks, thrust bearings, fresh blade, link belt. Probably tires and potentially motor bearings depending on its age. Aside from all that (which should run you ~120 for everything) it just needs a lot of adjustment, alignment, and cleaning to be everything you'd need from a 14" bandsaw.

Definately dont go off the wheel diam. to determine blade length. There are many 14" bandsaws and many slightly different length blades.

snodgrass knows his bandsaw adjustments.

I would also recommend The bandsaw book as an excellent resource for all things bandsaw.

You'd be better off with a guide like this:

Wolfcraft 4525404 Drill Guide Attachment for 1/4-Inch or 3/8-Inch Drills https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_alA0xbMA692QH

I recommend the DeWalt DW735. It's a great machine.

So you say skip it all together and save and that I'm dreaming if I think I'll get a decent tool for 300?

This is what I was scoping out if I did go with new.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HXT2N6/ref=s9_simh_gw_p469_d1_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-3&pf_rd_r=0Z1SJ2MMNX30NFRZRY71&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970567562&pf_rd_i=desktop

And this. Never heard of the brand but reviews are good.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00EN2JONA/ref=s9_simh_gw_p469_d1_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-3&pf_rd_r=1JVDAYMDC2V9F8SKTS1P&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=1970567562&pf_rd_i=desktop

Well, /r/Workbenches/ of course!

Several books out there have a variety of workbench plans in them; this one is popular and has some not-as-fancy benches as well as some fancy ones: http://www.amazon.com/The-Workbench-Design-Book-Philosophy/dp/1440310408/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1398431015&sr=8-2&keywords=schwarz+workbench

What is your budget? I would personally avoid both of those planes that you listed. The only modern day Stanley's that are worth while are the sweetheart versions, specifically the low angle sweetheart. There are a few other budget options if you are looking for cheaper (less than veritas or LN) options including vintage or luban/woodriver. Vintage options would likely mean that you would need to do some minor restoration to get it to prime working condition, but not out of the realm of doable. You could easily get a No. 4 or 5 for around $30-50. Luban/Woodriver may also need some minor adjustments and a sharpening of the iron out of the box. Be sure that you still have plenty of room in your budget for sharpening materials even if that just means sand paper and float glass or marble starting out.

As for the size of your first plane it really just depends on what you will be using it for, but you can't go wrong with either of those sizes. The 9 3/4" is equivalent to a Stanley No 4 and the 14" a No 5. Both are recommended as starter planes. The No 5 would be a little better at getting a truly flat surface, while the No. 4 may be a bit better at getting a smooth surface. I went for the No. 5 first personally. Block plane next, and then a jointer (No 7 or 8) and got a No 4 last.

Amazon has a few ceramic stones as well. There's this two sided one but I've never heard of King:

King Two Sided Sharpening Stone with Base - #1000 & #6000

They also have some Shaptons which I have seen mentioned on here, something like this:

Whetstone Sharpening stone SHAPTON Ceramic KUROMAKU #5000

I believe that you may regret buying that saw. If you are in need of a smaller job site style saw I would suggest this saw. Much better fence system and this comes with a better garud/riving knife system. If you can swing it I would recommend this one.

I don't think a sheet sander would be any better. The random orbital could work if you have a decent shop vac or dust extractor set up. Another option would be to set up either a downdraft table or put an air filter right next to where you are working. These are all very loud options for working inside a house or apartment.

If I was working indoors I would look into using card scrapers and a smoothing plane as much as possible, with just a bit of hand sanding around any corners you miss.

These are absolutely incredible for removing rust. I always put a coat of Boeshield for rust protection on surfaces that might rust. It works like a charm. rub on some paste-wax and buff it off and you have a slippery tabletop that wont need any attention for months!

http://www.amazon.com/The-Bandsaw-Book-Lonnie-Bird/dp/1561582891

Bought this, read this, setup my saw. . . works great.

This along with the woodwhisper.com made setup a breeze and helped explain about the finer points of this tool (i.e. its hard to get enough tension out of most hobby saws - bigger blades are only better if properly tensioned).

Thanks, I hadn't heard of Boeshield. Yes, it will be exposed to humidity and condensation. Is this the correct product?

http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

try one of these digital angle gauges. I bought a cheaper version of this (about $15 iirc) from HF and it has saved me hours of headache. I've used this on a cheap jobsite saw and managed to get perfect 90 degree cuts every time.

Thanks for the input. I don't necessarily need one that can be moved around. I looked at your recommendations--i couldn't find anything on the Delta except replacement part stuff. The Ridgid is a little out of my price range. I should have specified, I can add about $100 to the gift price, but can't justify much more than that right now.

At the $300 level, here is the DEWALT DW745 and the Delta 36-6010. Would either of these be worth it?

I really like the flat, flexible blade Japanese style saws, they work well for a lot of things, but this type of cut it is great for.

If you don't have one, you can use any regular saw, cut it a little high then chisel or sand it down.

I've used paste wax and GlideCote, both are susceptible to occasional rust. I may try T9 at some point. http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

I think for a hand plane, a simple solution would be to store it wrapped up in a cotton cloth. If the only time it was out in the open is when it's being used, that might have a serious impact on oxidation.

definitely not that. Bosch bits arent even that good, and that price is astronomical. I think that seller is offering it well over retail if I had to guess.

Get 1/2" shanks whenever possible.

I started with this set

http://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=sr_1_3?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1465239946&sr=1-3&keywords=router+bit+set

Its decent, it covers most of the bases without being wasteful with stuff you'll never use.

I have added to my collection with frued bits when I find that I use it alot, roundover, flush trim, straight bits mostly. And then some others that werent in the set.

I'm looking for my first tablesaw. I'll be primarily using it to rip common boards and plywood for simple home funiture. Hopefully someday I'll be using it on hard woods for nicer tops. For sub $500 should I go with one of the hundreds of old Craftsman 113's on craigslist like this one, or a new direct drive worksite setup like this one? I don't have a big shop, but the wheels on the craftsman would be sufficient for moving it out of the way when not in use.

If you buy ANY woodworking tools. I suggest a table saw (duh), a router and a router table. This is also the set I have that I bought to start with. Seems to be working great

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FJRN8S/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you can find this book(http://www.amazon.com/The-Bandsaw-Book-Lonnie-Bird/dp/1561582891) it will help you a lot.

Reading your edit above, don't over tighten the tension knob that can cause issues as well. Overall it sounds like you may need new tires.

I used this book it doesnt have any plans but lays out rough guidlines and was a good read

MLCS 8377 15-Piece Router Bit Set with Carbide-Tipped 1/2-Inch Shanks https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FJRN8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Wr2SybQJ8VEMY

I saw this set recommend in this sub. I have the same router as you and I've been happy with them.

I use a very similar one but with a quick release. Might be nice for you if you get short of breath.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00IF7RBS4/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494873395&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=6502ql&dpPl=1&dpID=414%2Bl-bPsBL&ref=plSrch

That's an informative link. Thanks. The rig shown may not be technically a cyclone, and I apologize if I misspoke. It's this. Nonetheless, as chips and dust are forced by the impeller into the unit, they are forced along a curved ramp. The heavier ones drop out and the rest are dealt with by this pleated canister filter. Despite Harbor Freight's sometimes very sketchy quality reputation, this thing has been humming along for close to twenty years, and in conjunction with an air cleaner , has kept my shop reasonably dust free and has been totally trouble free.

I'm not a full time production shop, but a remodeler, so this has met my needs nicely.

Old wood guy has it right. Only thing I'd add is pick up a copy of The Bandsaw Handbook or The Bandsaw Book. You'll be glad you did.

I got the smaller WEN air filter about a week ago, I'm in a similar situation to you (mother-in-law lives in an upstairs apartment above my shop). It's quieter than my window shaker AC and does a really good job of keeping dust contained:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00LPD9BDI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This one's kinda dry: http://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Craftsmans-Guide-Technology/dp/1561583588 but contains tons of useful stuff. A few things I've learned:

• How wood & glue work. E.g. roughing up the surface doesn't help.
  
• Dimensional variation in longitudinal, radial, tangential wood dimensions, and how to design for these changes.
  
• How to more accurately identify wood species. E.g. just looking eyeballing a piece is not sufficient, even 'experts' will sometimes misidentify.

https://www.amazon.com/Workbench-Design-Book-Philosophy-Building/dp/1440310408

Very helpful to me

I found this sharpening kit is a necessity when using a mortising machine. HUGE difference even with a new chisel and bit. I also will lube the drill bit with a couple of drops of Boeshield to keep the screeching sound to a minimum.

Second king combo stone. There's 800/4000 and 1000/6000 for roughly $30 at amazon, former is slightly larger.

Flatten waterstones on drywall screen, it'll last much longer than sandpaper. For a flat reference you could use float glass or grab a straight edge and find the flattest granite tile in stock at a big box store. Cheaper flat reference is hit up a granite shop for sink cutout that's destined for the trash. Absolute cheapest method for flattening stones is skip drywall screen and use nearest cinderblock or sidewalk.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000248XEY/ref=psdc_553346_t3_B001DT1X9O

https://www.amazon.com/King-Sided-Sharpening-Stone-Base/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=pd_bxgy_469_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=K0Y773G0NS34CDNXTKZD


https://www.amazon.com/3M-99436-Drywall-Sanding-220-Grit/dp/B000CP0QWU/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1478494107&sr=8-3&keywords=drywall+screen

One of these is available for $175 used in good condition.

Same here. I essentially built the whole thing using one of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/Shark-Corp-10-2440-Fine-Cut/dp/B0000224U3/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1341947923&sr=1-1&keywords=japanese+saw). I thought a jigsaw would work, but I had too much trouble getting 90° edges. The pull saw worked beautifully, although it did get a little laborious. For the half joints I used a chisel, same as your plan.

Are you going to use all 2x4s, or are you going to use hardwood?

Sure! I am no expert, but I like my results. Here is what I did.

1. I went to amazon and bought:
   
   • Mineral Spirits
     
   • Rust & Corrosion Protection Spray
     
   • Little Wire Brushes
     
   • Orbital Sandpaper Pads (assuming you have an orbital sander)
     
   • Steel wool
     
     
2. I lowered the saw blade.
   
   
3. I spread Mineral spirits with the steel wool in small circles with a bit of elbow grease.
   
   
4. I scrubbed for a moment with the wire brush where there were bad rust spots, but then I thought "This is going to take for ever!"
   
   
5. I sanded it with my orbital sander and my highest grade sand paper pad. This created a thin slurry of rust and mineral oil.
   
   
6. I went back to the wire brush to scrub the spots the sander couldn't reach.
   
   
7. I went in the house with my slurry-covered fingers in the air opening doors with my elbows and grabbed an undershirt from the laundry to wipe down the saw.
   
   
8. I wiped down the saw.
   
   
9. I did one more pass with mineral oil and steels wool.
   
   
10. I sprayed it with the protection spray.
    
    
11. I marveled at/ took pictures of my saw.
    
    
12. I scanned my garage for other small tools I could quickly sand and spray.
    
    The whole evolution took less than 20 minutes.

I bought a set of norton water stones from amazon and have been very happy with them, they call it a starter kit but it comes with all you need for planes and chisels... was under 140 bucks http://www.amazon.com/Norton-Waterstone-Starter-Kit-flattening/dp/B000XK0FMU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395702676&sr=8-1&keywords=norton+waterstone

I was in the same boat and purchased this:
Stanley 12-137 No.62 Low Angle Jack Plane https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002B56CUY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dliKzbV82V8RY

Loving it thus far

I really like my Erwin Marples set. IRWIN Marples Woodworking Chisel Set, 6 Piece, M444SB6N https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000RG2Y56/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_eUeeAbXWX74SE

Its my basement. During the winter it was fine. In the summer though, the moisture level is really increasing. I try to stay really vigilant checking my planes and table surfaces, and of course... this stuff http://www.amazon.com/Boeshield-Corrosion-Protection-Waterproof-Lubrication/dp/B001447PEK

If you're looking for designs this book may help.

I have the Dewalt 10" Compact Table Saw (so yes I suppose that qualifies).

Thanks for the recommendation! This is the one you mean right? It seems the Rigid R4516 is comparable.

These keep popping up as recommended bits. I got a set, but haven't used them much. Seem fine and a decent price for a decent selection.

I would start by reading something like [this] (https://www.amazon.com/Understanding-Wood-Craftsmans-Guide-Technology/dp/1561583588)

Then buy some small quantity of different varieties of wood available where you live, a few different finishing products and experiment.
This way you would have samples to show your prospective clients and a personal database of wood/finish combinations.

Something like this is what you need. https://www.amazon.com/Gyokucho-770-3600-Razor-Ryoba-Blade/dp/B000CEF5HM

Not the best option, but, it is relatively inexpensive, and will get to you in 2-days:

Wolfcraft 4525404 Drill Guide Attachment for 1/4-Inch or 3/8-Inch Drills https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i-ptxb4CC034N

ok I got this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T6YZ0K6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and I'll give it a shot or I'll return the Ryobi I guess.

Don't bother. 1000/6000 double sided is cheaper on amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/Japanese-Sharpening-Stone-Whetstone-Combination/dp/B001DT1X9O

...and you won't have to wait a month or more to get it.

I didn't really follow plans, per se, but I did read Workbenches: From Design And Theory To Construction And Use and The Workbench Design Book Both by Christopher Schwarz. After studying these, I had all the design elements in mind and worked it out as I went along...which worked out for the most part, but I had a few hiccups due to lack of planning along the way.

The hardware is Benchcrafted, and they have plans too, which are popular, but I didn't use them.

How does this sound.
HF duct collector and a wen air cleaner to get the air born dust.
Maybe someday I can exhaust the dust outside? Is there an easy way to do that with the HF system? I have an unused central vac vent closeby.

There's 14 sections, they were 3/4" wide at the bottom and were angled at 12.9° (360° / 28 surfaces = 12.86°). I stuck my digital angle gauge on the table saw blade and tilted it until it read 12.9°.

After it was glued up, I rounded the outside on a benchtop belt sander and the inside with a drum sander chucked in a drill press. I really wish I owned my lathe then, it would have drastically sped up the process.

A drill guide like this will work. They lack the absolute precision of a drill press, and definitely not built for daily use, but for an occasional DIYer who can't justify drill press, it gets the job done.

Not sure if it's exactly the same kit, but that model is $570 on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Planer-Package/dp/B003OX9KME

You'll end up replacing almost everything here. Look at the classifieds in your area for quality used tools. If you want a pull saw I'd get this one: https://www.amazon.com/Gyokucho-770-3600-Razor-Ryoba-Blade/dp/B000CEF5HM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1483422693&sr=8-3&keywords=gyokucho

You’ll still have lots of airborne dust. Might want to look into getting an air filter of sorts.

> Marples blue handle

What about something like

https://www.amazon.com/IRWIN-Marples-Woodworking-Chisel-M444SB6N/dp/B000RG2Y56/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1483322628&sr=1-1&keywords=Marples%2Bblue%2Bhandle&th=1

I could even use the wooden case, as I don't have a place to put them, and I wouldn't want them loose.

EDIT: Actually, the first review said it's Chinese crap again...

I would start by reading this book:

https://www.amazon.com/Workbench-Design-Book-Philosophy-Building/dp/1440310408

You might change your mind on your needs after reading it.
Also, if it was me, I would build one, but not be afraid to build another one after you try it out.

Also consider getting (or borrowing) Chris Schwarz's two books on workbenches: The Workbench Design Book and Workbenches: From Design and Theory to Construction and Use

Everything you need to know about workbenches.
https://www.amazon.com/Workbench-Design-Book-Philosophy-Building/dp/1440310408

Your coasters are a prime example of wood shrinkage, there is nothing you can do except watch the crack get bigger and smaller according to the relative humidity. The size of the crack will change every day. See the cover of this book

Links: Identifying Wood & Understanding Wood

Is this the saw you are referencing?

+router bit set:
https://www.amazon.com/MLCS-8377-15-Piece-Router-Carbide-Tipped/dp/B000FJRN8S

+honing jig:
https://www.amazon.com/WoodRiver-Honing-Guide/dp/B0035Y439C

Make the mallet.

Honing compound: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N20BY2T/ref=psdc_553346_t3_B00HT74364

Combo square:
http://www.harryepstein.com/index.php/12-4-pc-combination-square-metric-fractional-usa.html

Dust mask: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Facepiece-Respirator-6291-Particulate/dp/B000FTEDMM

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000HXT2N6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

thats my saw. Standard slots I believe.

I use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Wolfcraft-4525404-Attachment-4-Inch-8-Inch/dp/B000JCIMEA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466287521&sr=8-1&keywords=drill+press+attachment+for+hand+drills

https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW735X-Two-Speed-Thickness-Package/dp/B003OX9KME/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=dewalt+735x&qid=1574962882&sr=8-1

The lid

[The filter] (https://www.amazon.com/WEN-3410-3-Speed-Remote-Controlled-Filtration/dp/B00LPD9BDI)

The bag

Edit: This is the single stage collector I bought

Ryoba Saw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CEF5HM/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

By far my most used saw in the shop. The lack of spine means you can cut all the way through things and also makes it perfect for flush cutting (lay it flush against the surface and press the flat of the blade into the surface as you draw it back and forth. Takes no effort). The two different sized teeth let you do fine or aggressive cuts. I've cut PVC pipe, big ass oak logs (though obviously if you're cutting logs you want a bigger saw but for one-off this worked) and every thing in between. I bent the corner of it when I was really thrashing it and just bent it back with pliers and it's good as new

I used this guide for a project a few years ago. I wasn't thrilled with the build quality of this model when I opened it but it got the job (6, ~1.5"x6" deep holes 90deg to the surface) done.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000JCIMEA/

Poor form having a referral code in the link. Here is a clean link. And here is the price history for the past 120 days.