And behold the overtones that you didn't even know existed. You probably have to keep a headphone adapter in the piano to turn off the internal speakers, but thats a tiny price to pay for awesome audio.
Here's a suggestion: 2x JBL LSR305 MK2; and this cable. Then buy a Chromecast Audio which is about $35. (not available on amazon because they hate google). This will give you wifi connected audio you can cast to from spotify or other sources. I have 2 of these setups in my house; these speakers can play very loud.
That monitor is 144Hz stock, and it is overclocking up to 180Hz but not all panels may hit that speed. I recommend paying $20 more and getting a 1440p panel that is 144Hz stock but usually goes up to 165Hz.
R5 2600 is a $25 more and gives a nice performance bump.
That CPU cooler is overkill.
Get some faster memory for Ryzen.
The Crucial MX500 is a better value SSD.
Over $300 is too much for a GTX 1060 6GB.
You can get a fully modular and gold rated PSU for $5 more, that also has higher power quality.
Those Logitech speakers are junk, same with pretty much everything intended for PC use. Use some decent headphones or studio monitors. You get what you pay for with audio. Keep them a bit away from your wall and desk surface for best sound, this goes for all speakers.
If you really want real monitors, pass on the Edifiers and get the classics: JBL 305 Mkii
Two of those, some angled foam stands, and the proper cords/adaptors (3.5mm to 1/4 TRS) to hook them up. You may also consider a volume control module, since otherwise you'll have to do so via digital controls. All of that will get you to $250-300 or so.
Are you doing audio production? Why monitors over speakers?
I can find only fragments of the other thread you're referring to, but the TS-to-RCA cable is legit. It's not an adapter or coupler or anything like that. It certainly won't be the best connection option, but again, it works (it wouldn't damage the audio interface or the speaker), and it would cost far less than a pair of new monitors.
I looked at those speakers you have (or had). They're these? Those are more like bookshelf speakers, not active studio monitors. And $400 for the pair? You can do better than that for less money.
The JBL 305P monitors are another popular choice. They cost $150 each, and taxes/shipping could push the cost of the pair past your $300 budget. But both the Presonus and JBL monitors are fine choices.
_
Always check the prices. The savings can be Knight and day. ^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fdx42ng%2Fspeaker_jbl_305p_mkii_5_2way_poweredstudio%2Ff7n9uqo%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
If you're looking for passive speakers, mind you will need a decent amp to power them.
I own an Audio Technica lp120 record player with a Denon AVR X1100-W receiver and Bowers & Wilkins 685 s2 speakers.
I am very happy with the speakers. I recommend these if your room isn't too big.
I will be upgrading the cartridge to a Nagaoke MP110 in the future and I will be looking for a decent phono preamp as well. I would like to have more warmth in the sound. Perhaps tubes, but no decision has been made.
Someday I would like to upgrade the amp as well.
Hey, I'm looking to buy the JBL 305s for sale on Amazon today. https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC
I want to pair them with a turntable and also have the ability to play music from a phone or computer via a 3.5 mm input without switching cables constantly.
I'm also looking for a turntable but this JBL deal is what I want to buy first, and what I need feedback on if active monitors are the right choice for me.
The space is a living room that opens into a dining room and a kitchen behind it.
When the JBL volume is at 3, it sounds fine, at volume of 5 I hear static. This is the volume on the JBL itself, the E10K AMP volume isn't controlling the JBL volume for some reason. How can I get rid of the statis at higher volume?
KRK's are good because you can find them used for cheap online due to their popularity. Yamaha HS series is well respected and has a flatter response, will probably translate better on other systems.
Oh! You don't need to wait on the other stuff - well, unless /u/DMZ_Dragon says to, but like, nothing on the audio side is contingent on the PC setup.
I'm presently slightly grappling with how the recording and monitoring should work here - on a PC, you'd just route the audio output through your audio interface and live monitor your recording audio through the same device. However, since you want to do voice coms over the console, you'll need to use an input that works with it - which will either be a console-compatible ADC (if these exist at all? I'm not sure if such a market exists) or the normal input.
That there will be latency on the monitor audio is also a factor - that is, getting the audio output from your PC's monitoring of the recorded stream may introduce enough delay to be annoying to you. Only you'll be able to figure that one out, however, as I can't find much in the way of data on loopback time for this sort of chain - I recommend getting a headset with a TRRS output, however, to ensure that worst-case you can use the console normally.
Assuming you took my advice on that front, my recommendation would look something like the following:
Headset: A [Kingston HyperX Alpha] (https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Alpha-Gaming-Headset/dp/B074NBSF9N/) for about $90 which is a pretty decent pair of headphones with a microphone for voice coms, good accessories, and a reasonable price. You can do better in audio fidelity, but given that you want a mic as well, you'd be paying more to do so and facing some somewhat kludge-y options for putting things together - if you do want to allocate more to headphones, just let me know. [This is the aforementioned splitter you'd need to plug the already-split mic output into] (https://antlionaudio.com/collections/accessories/products/antlion-audio-y-adapter).
Depending on the calls you make there, that should sum nearish to 600, but there might be some slack - just wanted to throw this out now since it looks like you're holding off on buying parts on my account, which uh, please don't feel the need, we should be able to get things working with your PC audio wise regardless, so please proceed.
... So that the designers can match the unique characteristics of the drivers in the enclosure with non-linear responses of a network of caps, varistors/log pots, inductors, etc. in a controlled way, for the user to tune the speaker to the listening space and equipment with better results and less effort.
This $100 "Sonart 10" 300W Powered Active Subwoofer" calls the adjustment "frequency":
The $1,250 Verus III Grand Tower Speaker has an option called the "treble mod" which is probably a $3 resistor and/or capacitor in a $$-$$$ plastic case:
Several of the $$$$-$$$$$ Infinity IRS speakers use an outboard device dedicated to adjusting low-pass and high pass filters, and other related settings:
It's probably the bluetooth speaker. I had this problem with another bluetooth speaker. Some of them seem to have some EQ or other digital processing to the sound that adds a fraction of a delay even when using the line input.
Check price on Amazon
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Found 38 comments on JBL Professional 305P MkII Next-Generation 5-Inch 2-Way Powered Studio Monitor:
I've been using Command strips to mount stuff under my desk for a while now.
What we have here is
The Rolls MX51S has my laptop, my Amazon Echo, and my CD player all hooked up together and fed to my JBL LS305B MK II studio monitors.
The Rolls does have a headphone jack on it, but the O2s sound way better than the headphone jack in it.
And yes, I am planning to buy some black Command Strips at some point and swap them out.
EDIT: These are the Command strips I am using.
The 5" JBL 305P MKII are currently $89.10 on Amazon. Lowest price ever.
JBL 305P MkII 5" 2-Way Powered Studio Monitor (new model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-RM9BbEJACK3K
https://camelcamelcamel.com/JBL-2-Way-Powered-Studio-Monitor/product/B077N2GQXC?context=search
I'd look into the JBL 3XXMkII line.
Powered Monitors, I have the 306P and I love them. Good bit of customization for rooms too on the back.
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC
You can connect to the XLR with something like this: https://www.amazon.com/TISINO-Stereo-Breakout-Double-Cords/dp/B07K58FTR8/
Also can add an budget Dac as an in-between (That's what I use)
Edit: Also a set of foam isolation pads to throw under them, bunch of options on amazon.
Top options for sound quality under $300 wouldn't be any of those. Go with one of...
Adam T5V
Mackie MR524
JBL 305P
For me, in this order. All will sound world's better than the other options.
The JBL LSR305P get very loud, they have decent bass, and are on special at Amazon for $90 each https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-Next-Generation-Powered-305PMKII/dp/B077N2GQXC/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077N2GQXC?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=W2Z5361TYMAKQ4HNNZPS
I think you can get JBL 305 mk2 for around that.
Edit: Yup, $89 each!
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-Next-Generation-Powered-305PMKII/dp/B077N2GQXC/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N2GQXC/
https://www.amazon.es/gp/offer-listing/B077N2GQXC/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new
...
Now get 2x of these: https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-Next-Generation-Powered-305PMKII/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=jbl+305&qid=1571172889&sr=8-2
​
And behold the overtones that you didn't even know existed. You probably have to keep a headphone adapter in the piano to turn off the internal speakers, but thats a tiny price to pay for awesome audio.
Stretched budget: Get two of these- https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1541979016&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=lsr305&dpPl=1&dpID=41FIHvzIMXL&ref=plSrch
Under budget: Get these- https://www.amazon.com/d/Home-Audio-Systems/Swans-Speakers-Bookshelf-Excellent-Dissipation/B006D9Y8TQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541979080&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=swan+d1010-ivb&dpPl=1&dpID=41Qe1Ld2NRL&ref=plSrch
These (you need to order two)
or
these miccas
or
these edifiers which have a pretty good deal going on right now.
Helpful tip,
In your links, you can delete the affiliate marketing referrals by deleting everything after the "dp" number.
So https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542412177&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=jbl+305p&dpPl=1&dpID=41FIHvzIMXL&ref=plSrch
Turns into https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC
You can also get the new model, 305P, for $10 more. https://www.amazon.com/JBL-2-Way-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1523718571&sr=1-1&keywords=305p
Here's a suggestion: 2x JBL LSR305 MK2; and this cable. Then buy a Chromecast Audio which is about $35. (not available on amazon because they hate google). This will give you wifi connected audio you can cast to from spotify or other sources. I have 2 of these setups in my house; these speakers can play very loud.
CPU | AMD - Ryzen 5 2600 3.4GHz 6-Core Processor | $199.99 @ Amazon
CPU Cooler | CRYORIG - H7 49.0 CFM CPU Cooler | $34.99 @ Amazon
Motherboard | Gigabyte - X470 AORUS ULTRA GAMING ATX AM4 Motherboard | $139.99 @ Amazon
Memory | Team - Dark 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3000 Memory | $159.99 @ Newegg Business
Storage | Crucial - MX500 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $121.99 @ Newegg Marketplace
Storage | Seagate - BarraCuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $44.28 @ Amazon
Video Card | EVGA - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB SC GAMING Video Card | $299.99 @ Amazon
Case | NZXT - S340 (Black) ATX Mid Tower Case | $69.99 @ Amazon
Power Supply | EVGA - SuperNOVA G3 550W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply | $69.99 @ Amazon
Monitor | Dell - S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165Hz Monitor | $369.95 @ Amazon
Keyboard | Corsair - K95 RGB PLATINUM Wired Gaming Keyboard | $169.99 @ Amazon
Mouse | Corsair - M65 PRO RGB FPS Wired Optical Mouse | $49.99 @ Amazon
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | $1731.13
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-04-26 16:03 EDT-0400 |
Those Logitech speakers are junk, same with pretty much everything intended for PC use. Use some decent headphones or studio monitors. You get what you pay for with audio. Keep them a bit away from your wall and desk surface for best sound, this goes for all speakers.
https://www.amazon.com/Mackie-CR-CR3-Reference-Multimedia/dp/B00KVEIY4E - $100.
https://www.amazon.com/PreSonus-Eris-E4-5-Powered-Monitors/dp/B00GP56OYA - $200.
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-2-Way-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC - $300 (you need 2)
/r/budgetaudiophile if you want more recommendations.
Still up for me
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077N2GQXC?pf_rd_p=183f5289-9dc0-416f-942e-e8f213ef368b&pf_rd_r=EHY47SP13PFKQBSE7XFZ&th=1
> good active monitors
and if money is no object something from Kii Audio
Could something like this work?
JBL Professional 305P MkII 5" 2-Way Powered Studio Monitor (new model) - 305PMKII https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_03YXCbJE7PEJG
If you really want real monitors, pass on the Edifiers and get the classics: JBL 305 Mkii
Two of those, some angled foam stands, and the proper cords/adaptors (3.5mm to 1/4 TRS) to hook them up. You may also consider a volume control module, since otherwise you'll have to do so via digital controls. All of that will get you to $250-300 or so.
Are you doing audio production? Why monitors over speakers?
I can find only fragments of the other thread you're referring to, but the TS-to-RCA cable is legit. It's not an adapter or coupler or anything like that. It certainly won't be the best connection option, but again, it works (it wouldn't damage the audio interface or the speaker), and it would cost far less than a pair of new monitors.
I looked at those speakers you have (or had). They're these? Those are more like bookshelf speakers, not active studio monitors. And $400 for the pair? You can do better than that for less money.
The JBL 305P monitors are another popular choice. They cost $150 each, and taxes/shipping could push the cost of the pair past your $300 budget. But both the Presonus and JBL monitors are fine choices.
Price History
ReviewMeta: ★★★★✮ 4.6/5 from 503 valid reviews
CamelCamelCamel - [Info] │ Keepa - [Info]
_
Always check the prices. The savings can be Knight and day.
^(Info) ^| ^(Developer) ^| ^(Inquiries) ^| ^(Support Me!) ^| **[^(Report Bug)](/message/compose?to=The_White_Light&subject=Bug+Report&message=%2Fr%2Fbapcsalescanada%2Fcomments%2Fdx42ng%2Fspeaker_jbl_305p_mkii_5_2way_poweredstudio%2Ff7n9uqo%2F%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0A%0D%0APlease+explain+here+what+you+expected+to+happen%2Fwhat+went+wrong.)**
Are these two speakers the same? Any benefit from getting the paired one, opposed to the single?
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-LSR305-Professional-Studio-Monitor/dp/B07BZ6QS6M?pldnSite=1&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-LSR305-First-Generation-Powered/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=pd_cp_147_1/146-7578532-8917611?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00DUKP37C&pd_rd_r=6783c93e-bfa7-4876-809e-2bb533e04b30&pd_rd_w=bubei&pd_rd_wg=HVNLt&pf_rd_p=0e5324e1-c848-4872-bbd5-5be6baedf80e&pf_rd_r=ZYNV24GRP8JDAC4CFTX2&refRID=ZYNV24GRP8JDAC4CFTX2&th=1
They probably boosted the price at that link because it gets a lot of hits from here. Try this one:
https://smile.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/
r/audiophile recommends the JBL 305 mkII active speakers.
I would try to listen to this and take it from there.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/JBL-Professional-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1543073436&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=jbl+306p&dpPl=1&dpID=41fc1u-32OL&ref=plSrch#&vs=1
If you're looking for passive speakers, mind you will need a decent amp to power them.
I own an Audio Technica lp120 record player with a Denon AVR X1100-W receiver and Bowers & Wilkins 685 s2 speakers.
I am very happy with the speakers. I recommend these if your room isn't too big.
I will be upgrading the cartridge to a Nagaoke MP110 in the future and I will be looking for a decent phono preamp as well. I would like to have more warmth in the sound. Perhaps tubes, but no decision has been made.
Someday I would like to upgrade the amp as well.
Looking to get my first setup, how does this look?
​
https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-RT80-Adjustable-Counterweight-Anti-Skating/dp/B01F2B3FKI/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1542324459&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=fluance+rt80
​
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC
x2
​
https://www.amazon.com/Pro-Ject-Phono-Box-Preamplifier-Black/dp/B01CZW87HS
Hehe are some good passive options within your budget and slightly more(not in any order)
Amp:
https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-AD18-Amplifier-Bluetooth-Subwoofer/dp/B071JN7GXN/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1542411534&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ad18&dpPl=1&dpID=41qasInlHoL&ref=plSrch
Speakers:
https://www.amazon.com/Klipsch-RP-150M-Bookshelf-Speaker-Refurbished/dp/B071FTYBDL/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542411573&sr=8-2-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=rp-160m&psc=1&smid=AHF4SYKP09WBH
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Signature-S15-Bookshelf/dp/B01LVWWZS0/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542411736&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=s15&dpPl=1&dpID=41CQ0IqSP4L&ref=plSrch
https://www.klipsch.com/products/r-51m-bookshelf-speaker
https://www.jbl.com/loudspeakers/ARENA+130.html?dwvar_ARENA%20130_color=White-USA-Current#q=Arena+130&start=1
... and here are some powered options:
https://vanatoo.com/shop/speakers/transparent-zero/
https://kantoaudio.com/product/yu6/
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1542412177&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=jbl+305p&dpPl=1&dpID=41FIHvzIMXL&ref=plSrch
Hey, I'm looking to buy the JBL 305s for sale on Amazon today. https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC
I want to pair them with a turntable and also have the ability to play music from a phone or computer via a 3.5 mm input without switching cables constantly.
Would something like the Mackie big knob monitor switcher be a good choice to switch inputs and control volume? Or would going with a more traditional receiver and passive speaker setup be a more expensive but better choice?
https://www.musiciansfriend.com/pro-audio/mackie-big-knob-passive-monitor-controller/j49165000000000?cntry=us&source=3WWMWXGP&gclid=Cj0KCQiA597fBRCzARIsAHWby0G-V7o4TGThzlno4Sr-vVLEXdk9NW0ydvlKt3Erlv8BX20Wu0TqFaIaArPmEALw_wcB
I'm also looking for a turntable but this JBL deal is what I want to buy first, and what I need feedback on if active monitors are the right choice for me.
The space is a living room that opens into a dining room and a kitchen behind it.
Thank you!
Amazon only has the white ones on sale but you can get black on the KEF site.
KEF Q150 Bookshelf Speakers (Pair, White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0728GJWD9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_pEW9Bb23AWPAT
https://www.kefdirect.com/specials/specials/q150-bookshelf-speaker.html
Sorry for the fugly links my phone isn’t working properly today.
There’s also some JBL powered monitors on sale, you’d have to get two of these and some extra kit, but they’re also highly regarded...
JBL 305P MkII 5" 2-Way Powered Studio Monitor (new model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_hJW9BbX4SVFJC
Got it. Thank you.
Are these the right ones? They don't day LSR
JBL 305P MkII 5" 2-Way Powered Studio Monitor (new model) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7VQ9BbVDSW1QG
Edit: these look like a newer model. i'm reasearching now to see if they're still good.
I purchased a pair of JBL 305P MkII 5" (new model)
, hooked up to my existing FiiO E10K USB DAC and Amplifier line out with Hosa Breakout Cable, Mini Stereo 3.5 mm to Mono 6.3 mm
When the JBL volume is at 3, it sounds fine, at volume of 5 I hear static. This is the volume on the JBL itself, the E10K AMP volume isn't controlling the JBL volume for some reason. How can I get rid of the statis at higher volume?
KRK's are good because you can find them used for cheap online due to their popularity. Yamaha HS series is well respected and has a flatter response, will probably translate better on other systems.
But I've been seeing fantastic reviews on the JBL monitors, I'd check these out aswell.
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1543356952&sr=8-3&keywords=jbl+monitor
The six inch model also happens to be on sale.
I have a 3.1 KEF Q100 Setup - I want to buy rear speakers to upgrade to 5.1 setup:
So far, I am looking at:
https://www.amazon.com/Polk-Audio-Signature-S15-Bookshelf/dp/B01LVWWZS0 https://www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC https://www.amazon.com/Fluance-AVBP2-Surround-Satellite-Speakers/dp/B00067OLOS https://www.amazon.com/ELAC-Debut-Bookshelf-Speaker-Black/dp/B01DKDJRH0
Any suggestions? Thanks so much
Oh! You don't need to wait on the other stuff - well, unless /u/DMZ_Dragon says to, but like, nothing on the audio side is contingent on the PC setup.
I'm presently slightly grappling with how the recording and monitoring should work here - on a PC, you'd just route the audio output through your audio interface and live monitor your recording audio through the same device. However, since you want to do voice coms over the console, you'll need to use an input that works with it - which will either be a console-compatible ADC (if these exist at all? I'm not sure if such a market exists) or the normal input.
For a headset with a mic and TRRS output - let's say as an example Kingston's HyperX Cloud, because that's a fairly reasonable headset that's a common pick - [you can just connect it directly to an Xbox one controller so long as it's CTIA, which it should be in 2019] (https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/accessories/wired-headset-help). This means you'll only be getting whatever audio the game outputs, however, and you won't be able to monitor your stream mic. [Here is a very rough paint sketch of how things connect in that case] (https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/244316047258288128/602717684538540032/unknown.png).
Ideally, then, you'd want to connect your headset to your audio interface/your PC, monitor the game audio (so you can hear what's happening), but connect just its mic to the Xbox. From what I can tell, however - ex [Antlion's support page for their modmic] (https://antlionaudio.com/blogs/faqs/how-do-i-use-my-modmic-with-a-ps4-or-xbox-1) - it looks like normal TRS mic pinouts aren't compatible with the CTIA TRRS port on the Xbox controller (which makes sense). To get around this, you could use [a CTIA adapter] (https://antlionaudio.com/collections/accessories/products/antlion-audio-y-adapter) with just your mic plugged into it. [Here is another very rough paint sketch of how that connection would work] (https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/244316047258288128/602718385351950347/unknown.png).
That there will be latency on the monitor audio is also a factor - that is, getting the audio output from your PC's monitoring of the recorded stream may introduce enough delay to be annoying to you. Only you'll be able to figure that one out, however, as I can't find much in the way of data on loopback time for this sort of chain - I recommend getting a headset with a TRRS output, however, to ensure that worst-case you can use the console normally.
Assuming you took my advice on that front, my recommendation would look something like the following:
Headset: A [Kingston HyperX Alpha] (https://www.amazon.com/HyperX-Cloud-Alpha-Gaming-Headset/dp/B074NBSF9N/) for about $90 which is a pretty decent pair of headphones with a microphone for voice coms, good accessories, and a reasonable price. You can do better in audio fidelity, but given that you want a mic as well, you'd be paying more to do so and facing some somewhat kludge-y options for putting things together - if you do want to allocate more to headphones, just let me know. [This is the aforementioned splitter you'd need to plug the already-split mic output into] (https://antlionaudio.com/collections/accessories/products/antlion-audio-y-adapter).
Speakers: Either a pair of [JBL] (http://noaudiophile.com/JBL_LSR305/) [305s] (https://www.amazon.com/JBL-LSR305-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?keywords=jbl%2Blsr305&qid=1563770412&s=musical-instruments&sr=1-1-spons&th=1) for $260~ (also [cheaper] (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/JBL/LSR305-Powered-Monitor-115397315.gc) [used] (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/JBL/LSR305-Powered-Monitor-115397316.gc)) or a pair of [Behringer] (http://noaudiophile.com/Behringer_Truth_B2031A/) [B2030As] (https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-B2030A-High-Resolution-Reference-Monitor/dp/B000Q6EHA2/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_267_t_0?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=P1M0M5HXNZ7C6A61SH0G) for about the same (as before [cheaper] (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Behringer/Truth-B2031A-Powered-Monitor.gc) [used] (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Behringer/Truth-B2031A-Powered-Monitor-115370730.gc) and you get the higher-end model as well) if you want higher output and waveguide/directivity quality is less significant to you. The JBLs, being rear-ported are better kept at least a moderate distance from the walls, whereas the Behringers are a bit larger and more cumbersome - I'd go the Behringer route myself, but there's something to be said for not buying from plagiarists.
Sub: [Dayton SUB-1200] (https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-1200-12-120-watt-powered-subwoofer--300-629?AID=1457483&PID=7112509&SID=45704X1167592Xb49ec94690de9baa7a1d4ac21fc74245&cjevent=f1446ac8ac0811e9805601c10a1c0e13) for $150. I'm historically a bit skeptical of cheap subs, but [Butterworth's Wirecutter review has in-room usable low-frequency output under CEA2010 standards being pretty decent] (https://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-budget-subwoofer/#how-we-tested). You might need a bit of EQ (shill for EQualizerAPO as an option there) to flatten in-room response, depending, but the sub seems like a damn decent value for the money.
The budget is a tad bit tight at this point (unless you choose to avail yourself of the used options on the speakers), so for the mic and audio interface I'm only going to throw out some used recs unless you'd specifically like to reconfigure on that front. For the interface, [this Presonus Audiobox] (https://www.guitarcenter.com/Used/Presonus/Audiobox-USB-Audio-Interface-115552996.gc) should work (although Presonus' weird monitoring level knob always struck me as weird...), and an entry-level condenser mic like [this Audio-Technica AT2020] (https://www.ebay.com/itm/AUDIO-TECHNICA-AT2020-CARDIOID-CONDENSER-MICROPHONE-P48-PRO-COMPANY-CORD-2245/113826761993?hash=item1a809a8d09:g:ADIAAOSwCJ9dEBDw) would put you at or above the norm for professional streaming (seriously, why do so many professional streamers use headset mics??).
Depending on the calls you make there, that should sum nearish to 600, but there might be some slack - just wanted to throw this out now since it looks like you're holding off on buying parts on my account, which uh, please don't feel the need, we should be able to get things working with your PC audio wise regardless, so please proceed.
... So that the designers can match the unique characteristics of the drivers in the enclosure with non-linear responses of a network of caps, varistors/log pots, inductors, etc. in a controlled way, for the user to tune the speaker to the listening space and equipment with better results and less effort.
This $100 "Sonart 10" 300W Powered Active Subwoofer" calls the adjustment "frequency":
https://www.amazon.com/Sonart-Powered-Subwoofer-Front-Firing-Surround/dp/B07KN3MQKZ
This $150 JBL LSR 305 calls the adjustment "Boundary EQ" and "HF Trim"
www.amazon.com/JBL-305PMKII-Powered-Studio-Monitor/dp/B077N2GQXC/
The $1,250 Verus III Grand Tower Speaker has an option called the "treble mod" which is probably a $3 resistor and/or capacitor in a $$-$$$ plastic case:
https://www.aperionaudio.com/products/verus-iii-grand-tower-speaker
The $3,600 Dynaudio Xeo 30 Floorstanding Speakers have adjustable active digital crossovers:
https://www.dynaudio.com/home-audio/xeo/xeo-30
Several of the $$$$-$$$$$ Infinity IRS speakers use an outboard device dedicated to adjusting low-pass and high pass filters, and other related settings:
https://tmraudio.com/product/tmr-1172
There are also plenty of good speakers that don't have on-board adjustable crossovers, into which the user can throw whatever EQed signal is desired.
I've seen some solid subs for less than $200. JBL speakers have been really good in my experience. I've also heard good things about this subwoofer.
> hk onyx 5
It's probably the bluetooth speaker. I had this problem with another bluetooth speaker. Some of them seem to have some EQ or other digital processing to the sound that adds a fraction of a delay even when using the line input.
For new speakers I recommend the JBL LSR 305's: https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-Next-Generation-Powered-305PMKII/dp/B077N2GQXC/
These look like a perfect fit for you.