Reddit mentions: The best raw building materials

Strap in, this got kind of long! I hope it's useful to someone.

I too have the "need a lot of bins and boxes and whatnot" situation because of my and my partner's hobbies. I sew and crochet and embroider and work with leather, and he works with electronics and 3d printers and so on. We share a small (10' x 10') room for our workspace and all of our most commonly accessed supplies.

Being someone who gets fixated on ideas frequently, I suggest that you open up your search to other options other than interlocking boxes. The reason I say this is that I am surrounded by bins and have been working with various sized bins to access things for a long time and I am tired of them. The problem is similar to what many other posters have mentioned: Getting items out of the boxes (even if they are small) is an Ordeal, especially if you have multiple boxes out, or if the box is very full and hard to put back together.


In general, a rule of thumb is to think about how you'll put your item away rather than how you'll access it. When we want access to something, it doesn't seem like a big deal to undo bins, bags, boxes, slide heavy things around, etc. because we get a reward at the end (yay, it's the thing! shiny!). After that, the idea of undoing all that stuff seems like a pain in the arse, and we just don't want to do it? (and what if we might need another thing from that bin? So, consider how you'll put it away, rather than how you'll get it out when designing a storage solution.


So, I am now moving away from the lidded box approach and encouraging my partner to do the same. Having watched Adam Savage's video describing first order retrievability, I am moving in that direction (although not yet to his ninjery level). Here's the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TWQAYfGxsPE.


I suggest the following types of storage for smaller objects. Bins still work OK for larger objects but someday I'd like to move away from that too.

• Akro-Mills Parts organization drawers. They come in many different sizes and types. They are durable, versatile, come with their own drawer dividers, they are wall mountable or usable on a desktop surface. We use these for all of the objects we reach for frequently for different applications (memory cards, bulldog clips, popsicle sticks, magnets, command hooks). https://www.amazon.com/Akro-Mils-10144-20-Inch-16-Inch-Hardware/dp/B003P2UOCO
  
  
• Stanley Organizer boxes. These boxes are extremely useful when you have a lot of tiny objects of different sizes to sort (like nuts, bolts and hardware or amigurumi eyes). There are bins in each storage thing that are fully re-arrangeable and removable - you can get several of these and customize each one to your needs and then pull out just the little bins you're interested in to work on. These have their place, but are best used as 'project' or 'many of one type' oriented storage https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF
  
  
• This video on using plastic bins as drawers. I did this for my two 4' workbenches and I love it. This allows me to quickly swap out project specific bins if I need to, and I now have the ease of access of drawers with the containerized pleasure of bins. I use these drawers every day for things like webbing and elastic storage, crochet hook storage, sewing machine accessories, sewing patterns, etc. I have currently taken to reserving one bin per workbench as a trash can and omg is that useful to have an in-table trash can - I'm thinking of drilling a hole in my benchtop so I can just swipe bits and pieces directly into the trash. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kjyg6RWDlZw
  
  
• Pegboard / slat wall. I personally like the metal Wall Control brand because I have a love affair with magnets. I use this for thread storage (I can thread my machine directly from the wall, without moving spools around!), bobbin storage, clips, pins, tape that gets used daily (painters, duct, electrical, etc), instant access tools are mounted on magnetic bars attached to the board. I also stuck magnets on the back of a bunch of stuff (empty soup cans, plastic bins from the stanley boxes, thread locker, sewing machine oil, etc) and now I can just kind of throw those items at the board and they stick. Extremely efficient and functional. The various hooks and things are also highly useful. Comes in many different sizes and shapes (and colors!) with accessory kits optimized for different situations. https://www.amazon.com/Wall-Control-30-WGL-200GVB-Galvanized-Organizer/dp/B002LZSWFW
  
  
• A tool chest (even if you don't have "normal tools"). We use this for hand tools - it is really nice to have screw drivers, wrenches, utility knives and tape measures at our finger tips. Ours holds a ton of stuff, fits on our metro wire shelving perfectly, and has held up like a champ in the 3 years we have it. Also it's metal, so I can stick things to it with magnets. We have this one: https://www.amazon.com/Excel-TB2105X-Blue-26-Inch-Steel-Chest/dp/B002BETIQA

Hey man, I know what it's like to make videos and get knocked on. I'm actually an 11 year manufacturing engineer who's poured molten metal on an industrial level, hundreds of thousands of pounds worth. I've Programmed and ran CNC machines, cut metals, drill welding, worked with water tools, abrasive tools, etc.

I've been trained by my grandfather who's been pouring metal since the 50's and my father who's been doing it since the 70's. Along with another half dozen men who all have a minimum of 20 years experience in industrial manufacturing. I'm going to give you some practical advice on how you could drastically improve your safety.

 

• I saw your DIY foundry once, you used cement in the slurry mix. I hope to god you aren't leaving that thing outside. Actually I hope you never use that furnace ever again. Good move using the aquarium stuff but cement is literally the worst thing you can use for anything with a flame on it. Cement is porous, it will absorb moister. If that thing ever absorbs enough and you fire it up, it WILL explode. If you are lucky it will just crack and i know you'll probably reply, "well I've been using it for ....". Ok, that's fine but what my father taught me the first time i stepped foot in our shop, "Dzuari, all it takes to kill you IS once." Don't ever fuck with mother nature or machines, you will always lose.
  
  If you are still using that furnace, please throw it out and remake it so my grandfather can stop rolling in his grave. Use one of these materials;
  
  Fine Kiln dried lapis sand
  
  Silica Sand 6lbs
  
  2200deg Rutland castable cement Fire Clay
  
  25lbs Rutland castable cement
  
  Kaowool Insulation Blanket
  
  Your best bet is to use silica sand but it's typically more expensive, however it will last the longest. The refractory is really where the durability is. I'd experiment with different types, you could even try adding in fiberglass reinforcement which may increase durability. Oh and here is a K-type thermometer. You can buy some thermocouple leads and figure out the math to accurately measure your burn temperatures so you don't over oxides your metals.
  
  And honestly, if it was me, I'd remove that video and remake it. Someone will watch that video, go out and buy cement and one day it will explode on them. That's an extremely dangerous way to make a furnace.
  
   
  
  
• Electricity and water. You can easily make your videos a whole lot safer just by distancing your water source from the electrical components with something like this for your Dremel. Pretty much apply this methodology to anything that involves electricity and water. The farther your motor and 120v input is to the water source, the better. You can make a quick plexiglass cover to help seperate it, make an extension shaft so the cutting wheel is further distanced and always wear heavy duty, insulated rubber gloves.. Hell you could even make your own retrofit abrasive water cutter with simple motor and pulley system. Matthais Wandel has a great belt sander build that wouldn't be hard at all to make your own water/abrasive wheel setup.
  
  The way you set up that cuttoff wheel.... smh. Please don't do that. Also I'm sure you already read the comments but there are times when to wear gloves and when not to wear gloves. You need to use a vice or clamp any time you can if it means avoiding using gloves when using a high-speed cutter of any kind. Especially if it's a wheel. Again, it only takes once.
  
   
  
  
• General safety. You should really read every single MSDS sheet you get on anything you buy retail or salvage. I've seen you light stuff on fire with zero respiration protection or use things that should have been done on a downdraft table or you were wearing improper clothing. Some of the stuff you work with can really fuck you up and you blatantly did not know of it's harmfulness or willfully disregarded it.
  
   
  
  Overall man I like your videos but in my opinion of everyone DIY'er i watch on youtube, you are hands down the lease safe. I usually spot something you did wrong in every video you post. Whether you feel responsible for your viewers and what they do with the information you give them, is up to you. I just figured I'd give you some pragmatic advice from someone who does this stuff for a living. I actually did a few youtube videos about 6 years ago on my Channel over industrial level green sand. I'm planning on quitting my job within the next mont or two to start my own workshop/foundry/DIY/Youtube/website marketing thing from scratch. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll gladly answer them.
  
  Here's some random tips;
  
  
  Don't use pop can metal for anything structural. It's 3000's series aluminum and it's mades specifically to be malleable. Good rule of thumb for scrap metal is, if it came from something cheap, the metals cheap. The highest quality aluminum you can get for CASTING is automotive parts. Typically made from A356-T6, very good aluminum. I see a lot of guys metal down "Aircraft" or "Aerospace grade" aluminum for casting thinking it's going to be strong. It will not be, 6000 or 7000 series aluminum is all wrought/worked aluminum. It gets it's strength from massive presses that squeeze the metal into shape. Once you heat it up it looses all that strength.
  
  T6 heat treat is the most common treat process for aluminum. If you are making something structural, heat treatment will greatly increase it's strength. But you have to use the correct aluminum for or it can't be treated (Automotive parts/A356). The process is usually 8hrs at 800-1000F then either a quench/2hrs at 300F or age hardening. With that K type thermometer you can easily set up your furnace to heat treat. Also, most aluminum age hardens once poured, usually around 21 days.
  
  Please never wear shorts ever again when working with molten metal. It's not that it will burn your leg. It's that it will hit your leg, then fall into you shoe. Then you have a burning foot and a ladle of molten metal in your hand. I've done this with high top boots and jeans on. My father would fire my on the spot if he ever saw me pouring with shorts on. I saw a guy poure about 2lbs of aluminum into his boot once. 6 years later his still on disability. Please don't ever do it again.
  
  
  Random informational videos
  
  Metallugical nature of Aluminum and crystalizing structures
  
  Grain Structure of Metal
  
  Cold work vs Hot work metal. E.I. this is wrought metal like 3000, 6000 & 7000 series aluminum
  
  Cermaic Material for Furnace Insulation
  

You could buy a veneer sample pack, which includes several species of wood samples that are labled, and use them like flash cards to study the different characteristics. Or you could compare them to the furniture in your house.

A cheaper way to learn different commonly used wood species would be to walk into Home Depot or Lowe's or even better, a lumber specific store and just study the wood they have there. Typical stuff used around the eastern United States is oak, cherry, maple, walnut, pine, hickory, poplar, cedar, etc. They each have very distinct features like grain pattern, grain spacing, color, density, hardness, and even odor. Cedar for example is very soft, very lightweight, and has a strong odor, which you've smelled if you ever walked into a pet shop that uses cedar chips for rodent cages. While oak is very hard, and heavy and smells more like bad body odor.

Keep in mind that there are lots of different species like I mentioned above, but then there are subspecies like southern yellow pine, white pine, western red cedar, white cedar, black walnut, birdseye maple, silver maple, etc. And even within them examples of each can vary widely, because it its organic nature. But there will always be tell tale signs to narrow it down pretty close.

I'd definitely check out your local big box store and ask them what aisle the finish lumber is in, or just ask where the oak is. They usually sort everything by species and will have plenty of oak, poplar, maple and pine on hand. Lumber specialty stores will have a wider selection of stuff like walnut, and cherry. You can handle in, smell it, poke it with your thumbnail to see how hard it is, and even buy some to use as a reference. Prices vary widely from species to species. Pine is cheap and might be sold by the board while oak is pricier and might be sold by the food. You can cut small pieces of stuff in the scrap bins and they will only charge you for the length you take.


As for using different woods for different things, it's mostly style when it comes to furniture. Some people like the look of cherry, so they buy cherry furniture. There are certain woods with specific uses. For example, southern yellow pine is used for decks because it can be pressure treated with chemicals that make it not rot, or get eaten by wood eating insects. It's also very stringy and not likely to crack. It can bend very far before breaking so it's perfect for the strength needed in decks that can hold large crowds of people during parties. Cedar is also used outside a lot because it has natural tannins which keep it insect and rot free without any paint or chemical treatments. If you ever see wood siding on a house that looks like shingles, it's most likely cedar. Some roofs are even made with cedar shingles because it holds up to the elements very well.

Sorry for the wall of text. I just found this subreddit and I like sharing knowledge on topics I know more about.

So as promised here are the majority of materials/tools I used to make the counters. I used the stain instead of actually coloring the concrete as I was worried about getting inconsistent coloring since I was doing multiple batches.
Now, my mistake I made which turned ok after the fact was that the concrete became too dense for the stain to penetrate. Despite using the sawzall to try and vibrate the air bubbles out from the bottom of the concrete but I was not able to get all of them out so there was pin holes on some of the counters. So I made a slurry as recommended and filled in all the holes and then sanded the high spots down. So when I stained the counters the areas that had been filled with slurry took to the stain very well but the actual concrete only became a darker grey. I communicated with a staff from ConcreteSolutions and they were very helpful in trying to get the stain to penetrate the concrete. I stained it probably 3 times and then just left it as it was and now I really love how it turned out despite not being as planned. Its almost like a black and grey leopard spot on most of the counters, the island area was the last poured and had hardly any air bubbles so its more solid color…
I let them sit and harden at least a week before I flipped them over and started sanding away. I did not want a exposed aggregate look so I had to be careful about sanding too much…
The stain and sealer work great and like the other user said, liquid just sits on an it and doesn’t not penetrate.
If you have any questions ask away- I had lots of friendly people help me on other forums and was very thankful for their help….

Chengs Book
http://www.amazon.com/dp/1561584843/ref=pe_385040_30332190_TE_3p_dp_1

Sealer
http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/products/sealers-and-polish/z-siacryl-14-sealer/

Polish
http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/products/sealers-and-polish/z-counter-shine-polish/

Dye/Stain
http://concretecountertopsolutions.com/products/stains-and-integral-colors/z-aqua-tint-dye/

Nylon Fibers
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000COCDCM

SUPERPLASTICIZER
http://www.ebay.com/itm/-/161011304020

Diamond polishing pads
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AB1UMOW

Variable speed polisher
http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/polishers/7-in-10-amp-variable-speed-polisher-60626.html

Yeah, I did a few test batches that were in the 12"x12" neighborhood. I used melamine for the forms and largely found this Ask This Old House video to be very helpful (although I didn't use the spray method for the initial coat). Key points that I used and learned:

• Using caulk for a roundover works really well. Use a high contrast color between the mold and the caulk so that you can clean up excess caulk (e.g. if using white melamine for the mold, black silicone caulk is perfect). You might be surprised how much detail the concrete picks up from stray bits of caulk that you left in the mold.
  
  • Tools like these modeling tools are great and give consistent roundovers
    
• As in the ATOH video I linked above, I used glass fiber reinforcement instead of using a metal mesh. Fwiw, I used this stuff: https://smile.amazon.com/32-500-4-Inch-Anti-Crak-Concrete-Fibers/dp/B000CODWAE/
  
• Wax the whole form with paste wax before applying caulk. It makes the excess caulk peel away SOOOOO much easier
  
• Add extra support to your form if needed. Concrete weighs a lot, and you don't want to have a curve in your countertop just because the mold was sagging under the weight of the concrete
  
• It's worth the effort to get your mold nice and level. It also needs to be stable enough that it's not going to bounce all over the place as you hit it with a mallet to get rid of air bubbles.
  
• For the form, I used screws to secure the walls to the main board. Drill generous pilot holes so that the screws pull the walls tight. Countersink the tops, and use some tape to cover the screw heads (I used painters tape). Covering the screw heads makes it easy to remove the screws after the concrete has cured and it's time to open the form. If you get concrete in the screw head, it's not the end of the world, but it's a pain to deal with.
  
• Plan ahead and rehearse your order of operations before you start anything that is time sensitive (primarily when it's time to pour the concrete). Do you have enough water? Enough concrete mix? Are your tools available? If you're mixing with a battery operated drill, do you have charged backup batteries? Dust mask? Screed that can span your mold?
  
• The mix especially for the part that will be visible will be soupier than you might expect if you've used concrete for things like fence posts. It being loose will allow the air bubbles to escape due to vibrations.
  
• I found a firm mallet worked better and was less exhausting than a larger rubber mallet. I've seen people on YouTube use power tools like random orbit sanders or reciprocating saws, but I did not have much success with those.
  
  I think that's pretty much everything. Doing a couple test pieces will teach you a ton. Have patience, have fun, and good luck!

Hey all!

First off: THANK YOU!! Thank you to all of you for your profound interest in the project and all the questions! I enjoy sharing any and all information I can :) and thank you for my FIRST Reddit Gold Award! I never would have thought this would merit such an awesome distinction!

I've received a number of queries about how it was put together, different functions, the construction, programming, etc... so I will definitely be putting together a detailed break-down so that anyone interested can follow along and hopefully be inspired to create their own crazy mirror setup!!! Keep an eye out here for that! I'm hoping no later than tomorrow evening but it could be done before or after that. Stay tuned!


Edit: Here is what I have so far for you all!


- Materials

o Raspberry Pi 3 b+ - https://www.amazon.com/LoveRPi-Raspberry-Quick-Raspbian-Desktop/dp/B07JR3M7FY

o Raspberry Pi fan - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076H3TKBP/

o Breakout board (testing purposes) - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076KZY5P6

o USB 5V 3.5A Power Supply - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L88M8TE

o 64GB microSD card - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCMBLV6

o USB Microphone - https://www.adafruit.com/product/3367

o USB Extension Cord – https://www.adafruit.com/product/993

o USB keyboard/mouse combo – https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SW719NZ

o Raspberry Pi V2 Camera – https://www.adafruit.com/product/3099

o V2 Camera extended cable – https://www.adafruit.com/product/1730

o 4 ohm impedance speakers – https://www.adafruit.com/product/1669

o Speaker Amplifier – https://www.adafruit.com/product/987

o Stereo aux cable - https://www.amazon.com/Hosa-YMM-261-Stereo-Breakout-Cable/dp/B000068O5H

o PIR-Motion-Sensor – https://www.adafruit.com/product/189

o Speaker mesh – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HMBKNSS/

o Magnets – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077SGKY3C/

o Drawer Handle – https://www.homedepot.com/p/Liberty-Classic-Edge-5-1-16-in-128mm-Center-to-Center-Matte-Black-Drawer-Pull-P34928C-FB-CP/303135233

o Monitor, 28”

o Mirror – https://www.twowaymirrors.com/acrylic/

o 18-22 AWG wire

o Wire Connector Kit - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0774NMT1S

o HDX 6’ Extension Cord w/ ground plug - https://www.homedepot.com/p/HDX-6-ft-16-3-Indoor-Tight-Space-Cube-Tap-Extension-Cord-White-HD-158-007/202521667



o Lumber/Construction Material:

§ 2”x6” lumber (~200” long) (main frame/wall mounting)

§ 1”x6” lumber (8 ft long) (shelves)

§ 2”x2” lumber (8 ft long) (rear frame border)

§ Red Oak Veneer – https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B1AR6E

§ Frame – https://www.homedepot.com/p/Weaber-WM-390-9-16-in-x-2-5-8-in-Oak-Chair-Rail-Moulding-73978/205923275

§ 1/8” MDF 2’x4’

§ 1/4” or 3/8” sandwich particle board, 2’x4’

o Construction Hardware:

§ Nails (for helping hold frame to wood while gluing)

§ Wood glue (secure frame)

§ Construction screws:

· #10 x 3.5” Construction Screws

· #8 x 2.5” Construction Screws

· Finishing nails

§ 3D printed pieces (custom 3D modeled and printed at home)

· Speaker/PIR/Microphone trim

· Camera trim/mount

· Speaker Amp/PIR/Microphone mount

· Speaker mount x2

· Pi mounting bracket


- Resources/References

o Raspbian Buster kernel – https://www.raspberrypi.org/downloads/raspbian/

o Magic Mirror 2 – https://magicmirror.builders/

o Modules: https://github.com/MichMich/MagicMirror/wiki/3rd-party-modules

§ mmpm (Module Manager)

§ MMM-Face-Reco-DNN (Facial Recognition)

§ MMM-PIR-Sensor (Motion Sensor Functionality)

§ MMM-AssistantMk2 (Google Assistant)

§ MMM-connection-status (Network Connection Check)

§ MMM-pages (Multi-Page Support)

§ MMM-ProfileSwitcher (Multiple Profile Support via Facial Recognition)

§ MMM-SingleStock (Track one stock of choice [my case, Microsoft])

§ MMM-News (News rotating on a 10 second basis)

§ MMM-GoogleMapsTraffic (Traffic Map w/ pins at work locations)

§ MMM-Traffic (Commute time from home to places of employment)

§ MMM-Hotword (hotword detection used in conjunction with Google Assistant)

§ MMM-3Day-Forecast (3 Day forecast for home)

§ MMM-Weather-Now (Weather at work locations)

§ MMM-WatchDog (Watchdog application for lock-up protection)

§ planetrise (rising/setting of planets based on lat/long)

I don't remember what exactly got me interested in inlays/marquetry but I rented a book on marquetry from the library and picked up the few tools I needed to get started and went on from there.

If you're interested in marquetry I recommend "The Fine Art of Marquetry: Creating Images in Wood Using Sawn Veneers" by Craig Vandall. He doesn't focus on the history/theory behind marquetry too much but gives a straight forward approach on where to begin and what tools you need to start.

For materials, I buy my veneer sheets from Amazon .The product linked gives you the most variety in wood species, great quality control, and value per sheet of veneer. For dyed veneer I go to B&B Rare Woods (their website is a little dated). Their dyed veneer's and regular veneer sheets are top notch. They also let you order book matched veneer sheets.

Let me know if you have any other questions or if you have trouble finding information on a certain subject. Cheers!

​

Having made them before I would say wood veneers work quite well. They likely need to be one sided and you will have to play with your settings because it's fairly easy to burn through. That said I've had the best results with these two:

Cedar Wood Veneer and Veneer Variety Pack

The cedar veneers are super consistent in quality. Thin enough to feel like a biz card but thick enough that they are sturdy like card stock paper. Prints well and gives a reasonable differentiation between shades of light and brown so that you can get some complex imagery going if you feel like it. The variety pack comes with a whole selection of woods of varying color and quality. Some are full of burls which don't lend themselves well to lasering over, and others have such a grain pattern that distracts to much from small imagery as used in a biz card. On the other hand some of them have beautiful sheen as well as very striking color.

Here's an example of some done with two veneers from the variety pack.

Are you in the right place? This is Home Improvement.

Okay, I'm sorry. If you want a brick wall, this is one way. If you used the right weak adhesive and just painted the wall with sanded, grout color paint instead of grouting, you could pop them off and skim coat.
http://www.amazon.com/Colonial-Collection-Thin-Brick-Boston/dp/B0097CNS10/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1418369256&sr=8-1&keywords=brick+veneer&pebp=1418369260637


A photographic wallpaper may get you where you want with just a paint job needed when you leave:
http://www.amazon.com/Wallpaper-Faux-Tuscan-Brick-Looks/dp/B004DF56MU/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1418369256&sr=8-5&keywords=brick+veneer

And, these seem the best overall value and ease of removal, the look is a bit clunky:
http://www.fauxpanels.com/style-brick.php?gclid=CM7_iKn_v8ICFWgF7AodkCUAyQ

I like the styrofoam idea. Find a foam shop and they will help you find the right foam and slice it into a thousand brick-sized pieces. Throw a party and have everyone use their fingernails to weather it or scrape notes. Mount and paint.

Wondering about a deep skim coat and stamped concrete forms ...

Here's something I stumbled across that might help you.

You might also look into faster quick drying concrete.

I've done small casting in concrete but never in a rotocaster.

I would pay attention to:

Set time- Set is how long the concrete is going to take to set up so you're going to want to leave the rotocaster running for at least that amount time. And if you're looking for a high level of detail, you going to need to water it down even more, which adds to your set time.

Cure time- I wouldn't even take it out of the mold until it got closer to the end the cure time. That way you know it'll be safe to handle.

The speed of the rotocaster- As it drying, concrete will get thicker and likely to fold in on itself. But if it spinning fast enough, I don't think you'll have an issue.

Good Luck. :)

Almost anything should work. Cheaper but still strong would be fibreboard: amazon link and I'm sure you can get it at any hardware store. Even cheaper/thinner is chipboard which is pressed cardboard.

If you're even more low-commitment than that and don't care what it looks like in the back or how long it would last, I'm pretty sure any cardboard, flat plastic or any other sturdy flat material would work just fine in a pinch too with some glue or screws.

This product can be applied with a 3 inch putty knife, and looks exactly like concrete from a bag when dry. It's fun to work with. Has sand in it. You may need 7 or 8 of them, but it takes very little time to get the job done. Some newspaper on the floor.

https://www.amazon.com/Premixed-Concrete-Patching-Compound-0-95L/dp/B001XW64M2/ref=pd_sbs_60_1?ie=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001XW64M2&pd_rd_r=406XWTRXQM5WKZPHQ0FC&pd_rd_w=pXZbO&pd_rd_wg=WsyNm&psc=1&refRID=406XWTRXQM5WKZPHQ0FC

This product is also fantastic, and a 6 pack is only 35 dollars. It’s sandy and grey, shrinks a little, and can accept a second skim coat, which you may not think necessary. Also fun to work with and applies with a 3 inch putty knife.

https://www.amazon.com/32611-Phenopatch-Pre-Mixed-Concrete-Patch/dp/B015J3VTZM/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1474932669&sr=1-4&keywords=cement%2Bcaulk&th=1

I get my glue to 160. One thing that I find really helps is getting everything hot. After I press my glue soaked veneers for a day I re-prep them by doing the following:

1 - Spread glue on the toothed substrate

2 - put veneer face-down on glue soaked substrate

3 - Wet with water (spray bottle)

4 - Iron it until the veneer is uncomfortable to touch for longer than a few seconds

5 - Apply glue to veneer

6 - Peel it up, flip it, get it where I want it, and hammer it. Don't go crazy getting all the air pockets out. It's MUCH easier to touch them up after (like he does in video 2) than worry about breaking your glue bond by hammering partially set glue

Also if you want so low level of effort practice, order this. Good quality veneers, really cool species, and you don't need to cut them. They make interesting combinations for box bottoms and floating panel box tops if they come out nice too.

I am surprised at how quickly they thaw. Maybe 15min to slushy-but-pourable, depending on sugar content? Microwaving can speed it up in a pinch. Unsure if the reheating impacts flavor, but I haven't noticed any change.

The bottles were just what I got when I searched on Amazon for "glass 4oz bottles". I got the brown ones because they felt classier, but I kinda feel that clear might be better to see how full they are and what's inside (by color).

https://www.amazon.com/Amber-Glass-Boston-Bottles-Ribbed/dp/B000AV16H0/

I just bought PSA maple veneer, but birch is cheaper.
https://www.amazon.com/White-Veneer-Rotary-Premium-Adhesive/dp/B00VES1I6C

The big trick is a laser cutter, which sometimes are available for use at schools, and some towns have makerspaces. If you happen to pull stuff together, I'd happily hit you with the files to make whatever labels you want (if you like my design). Wouldn't take me but 5 minutes! You could also grab a Cricut (https://home.cricut.com/) which is a razor blade cutter than can cut vinyl sticker stock (much cheaper).

Definitely veneer. Don't bother trying to save it.

You can definitely sand or strip it off and apply new veneer. The edge is actually pretty easy to trim to the rounded corners.

Paint and epoxy would last longer than the veneer.

I bought 1x1 foot galvanized steel sheets from Amazon, found here https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W6ZMQY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

And the boxes are the Really Useful Box, 9 Liter ones. They're heavy duty plastic, solid snaps, and stack really easily without adding pressure to the bottom boxes middle, super well designed.

> Rockite

Amazing, thanks, you mean this one? https://www.amazon.com/Rockite-Cement-5-Lb/dp/B000E29L8Q/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Rockite&qid=1559060871&s=gateway&sr=8-3

thanks, looks like a great options in the US, but good lord its expensive in the UK, I'll have a look for an alternative here, really want white....

For metal minis there are typically two generally types of solutions.

1. You can get foam trays from a wide variety of companies, either pluck style or with pre-made compartments. This works well, I have four ArmyTransport trays that hold two factions worth of Infinity models. There are also nice bags made to hold the trays.
   
   
2. You can glue magnets on the underside of the base and stick them to metal sheets in some sort of container (or a metal toolbox). Sometimes this may require a little creativity to figure out the best way to "stack" multiple layers of metal sheets but fortunately Infinity doesn't use a lot of minis so one sheet may last forever.
   
   For instance, I'm magnetizing my Star Wars Legion models this way.
   
   I'm using this 13x13 container with has 4" tall "levels":
   https://www.amazon.com/Snapware-Seasonal-Ornament-Storage-Container/dp/B00FXLTSI6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1522936303&sr=8-1&keywords=ornament+storage+13x13
   
   I'm using this 12x12 sheet:
   https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000W6ZMQY/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
   
   The sheet drops right in, I've secured it with some double-sided tape or you can use glue or whatever. Then I put 6x2mm magnets on the bottom of each figure. You'd want to check the Infinity bases to make sure how thick a magnet will fit the recess but basically that's the process. Metal minis are heavier so you might want a slightly bigger magnet or perhaps two smaller ones. There are probably recommendations online somewhere.
   
   It's fairly cheap, very expandable, and should be able to hold nearly any game.

I've been really happy with this: 3 mm 1/8" x 12" x 12" Premium Baltic Birch Plywood, Box of 16 B/BB Grade Birch Veneer Sheets, Perfect For Laser, CNC Cutting and Wood Burning - By Woodpeckers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MXVB6O6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3VxCCb2AGTF8H
Comes in a stack so they are all pretty flat and shouldn't come warped.

Ahh. I see what ya did there. Lol

God bless amazon. Wall Control 30-WGL-200GVB Galvanized Steel Pegboard Tool Organizer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002LZSWFW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_kFVzCbPRPTAQH

I only have experience with concrete but this is a type of additive that might be suitable, also glass fibers will add strength or really anything that will help give it some structure and rigidity https://www.amazon.com/32-504-4-Inch-Nylon-Concrete-Fibers/dp/B000COCDCM/ref=pd_sim_469_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=2H3PGMH6CYWM50GJFTM3

That is cute. I like it. If you ever want something a little stronger, you can pick up craft plywood for a few bucks. If you are careful, it can even be cut with a simple utility knife.

I've used the Knowles GK driver in all of my builds with a green damper on the TWFK. The sound signature is fairly flat, although I've never measured it. I'm no expert in sound and I haven't listened to a lot of good headphones so I don't really know how it compares to others. I have had a couple of people that told me they were the best sounding headphones they had listened to.

Here are all of the completed sets I've made. Set #1 and #7 were made for myself. #7 was just a reshell. The green and blue faceplates are Kirinite. It is typically used to make knife and gun handles. The wood is from a variety pack of veneer I bought from Amazon. For the wood, I cut rectangles of the veneer that are just bigger than what I need and glue them all together to get the thickness I need, typically 5 or 6 layers.

I also used a sheet of aluminum on my third set. I got it from a local metal supplier for free. Just a small cutoff. It was pretty difficult to work with. It had to be shaped before it was attached to the shell. It would get too hot and fall off when shaping it with it attached.

Agreed. I love the way my 626 looks with real wood. The tool that helped the most with the rewrap process was this thing, so be sure to suggest the buyer get one. Cloverdale 33437 Band-It Edge Trimmer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001B1CHDA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_H.00CbAKXFW5M

I just looked at this for a 29mm Cesaroni motor. I'm going to switch over to a 29mm motor mount. I think I'll just use a 29mm one grain F load instead of adapting to 24mm. I'll definitely try that in OpenRocket! I would never use balsa for fins :^ ) You caught me. The 1/8" 1sq ft G10 stock is a bit pricey at $27.00 per unit, so I think I'll go for this if that sounds good.

Thanks for the ideas. I'll have to measure the box on the house and compare it to the one you linked. Maybe your box is large enough to completely cover it and then the current position wouldn't be as much of an issue.

I think the only issue with the cover you linked is that it is for Dutch lap siding. I have hardiplank, so I'm not sure if it will work, since there are difference in how the siding is cut. I might just buy a few different types and see what works best.

One other option I'd rather not do but could be a possibility is to remove that box and install one of these in its place. I'd really rather come up with a solution that uses the existing box instead, but this is always an option.

I've had decent success with these 12inx12inx3mm birch sheets I got off amazon. 45 sheets for $65 (these were down to $60 a while back).

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013NT3OAC/

went to that link, found this: http://www.amazon.com/Sauers-Wood-Identification-Kit/dp/B003F0C9EW/ref=pd_sim_201_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=61vDejjpw3L&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0VACTVP05EKQMBDBD5BW if you wanted to make your own i suppose this would be great!

Hi. They make lamp mounting kits for vinyl siding.

Builders Edge 130110006001 Surface Block 001, White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0041NT7D8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_AV9RAbVRZCPWS


There are different colors. Find one that has the right amount of steps for your type of siding.
Use a outdoor silicon to seal around the edges and there are foam pads you can use between the junction box to the siding cover plate. Hopefully they put a junction box in there, the lamp mount attaches onto the box. If they didn’t, install an outdoor box in there too.

Here is another
Arlington 8141-1 Vertical Siding Lamp Mounting Kit with Built-in Box for 1/2 Inch Vertical Siding LAP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002W6ZOCO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4V9RAbFQ3P1Z4

Hope that helps. Turn off the breaker before wiring.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B013NT3OAC/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_60_of_7?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Kzr2zFjSL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_SL500_SR100%2C100_&refRID=0MX1HXF0SQPPK6SWQCCQ

45square feet for $50. This is the best deal around I could find so far. All the other places I've looked put the square foot price higher when shipping is added. I've bought stuff from woodpeckers in the past too.

1/8" X 12" X 12" Baltic Birch Plywood Great for Laser, Cnc, and Scroll Saw. 45pc Woodpeckers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013NT3OAC?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Not 100% sure what the difference is (might just be depth of unit/quality of construction), but this is the actual product on Amazon. Similar, but not quite the same. The actual product is about $20 more expensive on Amazon (although that price difference drops if you have prime).

https://www.amazon.com/Premium-Baltic-Birch-Plywood-Woodpeckers/dp/B01MXVB6O6/ref=pd_sim_201_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01MXVB6O6&pd_rd_r=CTDGZZMSXTBKH9B8KXVB&pd_rd_w=DbLsu&pd_rd_wg=i2nBN&refRID=CTDGZZMSXTBKH9B8KXVB&th=1

Is this an example of the wood you used?

Thanks

I have mounted things on siding using one of these

https://www.amazon.com/Arlington-Vertical-Siding-Mounting-Built/dp/B002W6ZOCO/

but its plastic and like you said you need to hit a stud especially for a antenna that is heavy and might get wind load.

Out where I live, we have moved away from the rebar for light duty applications, such as patios and driveways. Crack control is now done with "kitty fur" and control joints:

https://www.amazon.com/32-500-4-Inch-Anti-Crak-Concrete-Fibers/dp/B000CODWAE

We mix this thoroughly into the concrete, and the fibers help to prevent cracking during the curing process, and afterwards. They are available in many different thicknesses and lengths, depending on the job:

http://usa.sika.com/en/solutions_products/Construction-Products-Services/Concrete/concrete-reinforcing-fibers.html

Call around, and see if this is available in your neck of the woods.

I would look into quikrete 5000 which can be bought a Lowes for $5-6 a bag and just add fiberglass shards for added strength. That's what i plan on doing for my bathroom vanity.

https://www.amazon.com/32-500-4-Inch-Anti-Crak-Concrete-Fibers/dp/B000CODWAE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491533180&sr=8-1&keywords=fiberglass+fibers

Well, there's this for metals: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DM7VBCT

Or wood: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003F0C9EW

Polymers: https://mindsetsonline.co.uk/shop/polymer-identification-set/

Or for 300€, you can get a professional plastic sample set meant for product design: https://www.plasticprop.com/buy-samples

Can i just get some normal concrete from a big box store and mix in glass fibers?

Im considering this for the concrete:
https://www.lowes.com/pd/QUIKRETE-ProFinish-Crack-Resistant-80-lb-High-Strength-Concrete-Mix/3026899
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CODWAE/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for my fibers

This is the product link:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013NT3OAC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00

And here's some pictures from my last batch
http://imgur.com/a/8kHaj

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003F0G60A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1417905748&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SY200_QL40

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013NT3OAC

Try this: https://www.amazon.com/Sauers-CECOMINOD058354-Wood-Identification-Kit/dp/B003F0C9EW/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539613946&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=veneer+sample&dpPl=1&dpID=51neA%2BDyIEL&ref=plSrch

Baltic birch plywood.

Here is what I buy:
3 mm 1/8" X 12" X 12" Premium Baltic Birch Plywood – B/BB Grade - 45 Flat Sheets By Woodpeckers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B013NT3OAC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_haTVBbZ6D2P64

This is the kit not just the panels and it's currently $66.97 on Amazon.

El Linko:

I imagine that using three hinges between each board would protect against any reasonable abuse.

What kind of wood did OP use I wonder?

Edit: Perhaps just craft plywood. Like so:

https://www.amazon.com/Midwest-Products-Co-5306-Plywood/dp/B000MNKTSS