Reddit mentions: The best rc servos

Great work!

I do agree, that the 'multi arm' approach is the way to go (EDIT: triple arm minimum, as I just did some testing and with only two arms there is really no way to effectively stabilize 'anything' that you are holding as the item tends to easily rotate out of control), unless you have access to a 3d printer and effectively free filament, etc.

The geared linear approach was done as a 'cheapest' first attempt to duplicate TempestVR's and tomotomox's work in linking a robot directly to VAM. After having done that, and then done the tcp/ip connection, I moved directly now to the multiple servo/axis approach. It is funny how much less printing will be required, lol.

Also, in ref to the geared linear approach, I was working on modifying the gear for the 20kg amazon servo I had bought DS3218MG ( https://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Waterproof-DS3218MG-Control/dp/B076CNKQX4) as seen here ( https://imgur.com/a/OMaqHPL ), and per the dimensions in the images for the servo, the arm has a stated furthest hole of 23.5mm, turns out I had to do a few prints of test gears as the hole was actually at 24.5mm! Not to mention, where the central 'hub' is, it is different from the MG995R, so, that then now threw off the 'gearing' being properly mated and so then there is play between the rack and pinion, lol! With a multiple servo/axis setup, that wouldn't be an issue at all! The only alignment issues are effectively those due to the proper synchronized control of the 2+ servos.

I looked into using the ram mount too, and like it, but I think I'm going to go with this https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Monitor-Adjustable-Articulating-STAND-V001/dp/B00B21TLQU/ , it is meant for holding up 22 pound monitors, so I think it shouldn't oscillate too much while the robot is in motion. In addition it can be mounted to a desk, to the side of a bed, and has a nice long articulating arm and 75 and 100mm VESA mounts which will be easy to 3d print something to attach to. A non-clamped version that you could 'sit around' is here https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Computer-Free-Standing-Adjustable-STAND-V001H/dp/B01FE2BCR8/

So at this point, I'm currently printing the housing for the new multi axis robot for testing, it will be a 3-4 servo setup in the end, might have a few variants. Going to be using an adafruit servo hat https://www.amazon.com/2327-Raspberry-Servo-Development-Board/dp/B00SI1SPHS/ and a raspberry pi and the tcp/ip VAM connection.

Lastly, once I get the multiple axis setup, I will then move to the code/algorithms such that there can be a seemless transition from the VAM 'movements' to the new robot(s) based on it's features. The idea is to make all this as seemless and easy as possible for anyone to do themselves.

And all thanks to TempestVR for all his contributions, without him I wouldn't have done any of this!

A simple servo would do it; most have a movement range of about 120 degrees. Some like this have a much larger movement range https://www.amazon.com/Miuzei-Torque-Digital-Waterproof-Control/dp/B07HNTKSZT/ref=sr_1_25_sspa?keywords=servo&qid=1557374596&s=electronics&sr=1-25-spons&psc=1 those are cheap no-name servos but they have performed surprisingly well for me; if you want to get something expensive then HiTec is good. You can control it directly from the Pi if you want to, or you can use a dedicated controller board like a https://www.amazon.com/SunFounder-PCA9685-Channel-Arduino-Raspberry/dp/B014KTSMLA/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=servo&qid=1557374551&s=electronics&sr=1-5 which will sit between the servo and the Pi. The only concern is that the servo may need a maximum of 2 amps when moving, so you just need to ensure that the power supply for the system is sufficient - so a connection to a decent USB wall charger will be good, but a common PC USB port wouldn't provide enough power.

For the actual setup, consider where you actually mount the motor. You may not be able to attach it directly to the lampshade, but you may be mounting it to the table or base of the lamp and connecting it to the lampshade through a small rod. It's just one of the "oh, of course" things you'll run into when trying to bring the parts together. The pivot point for most lampshades is on the bulb, but you don't want to attach the servo to the bulb.

Its probably worth it to get a decent transmitter. I would personally recommend the Taranis Qx7 but you could also buy a Spektrum Dx6 or a FlySky-I6. Keep in mind these use different protocols so make sure to get a compatible reciever.
A word about flitetest: Their power packs and speed build kits are kind of expensive as they use drone motors, waterproof foam board, and laser cutting. Their construction methods, while they make great flying planes, they are a bit involved (require curved, symmetrical cuts, a folding, sometimes soldering skill), and they are not durable in my experience (particularly their wings). For example, the Storch with PP-C would run $100. You can build a plane for ~$60 using Experimental Airlines methods(Not including reusable stuff like Transmitter and batteries).
I stared with an Experimental Airlines Noobtube and I would recommend either this plane or the EA Axon for any beginner. The Noobtube is a bit fast and has a front mounted propeller, though.
As far as gear, here are some components I personally use:
30A ESC
Turnigy 2826-6 2200kv
9g Servos ($1.80 each!)
Pushrods
6x4 props or even a 3-blade 6x4.
A couple more things you may find useful: servo wire extenders, landing gear, gift cards, and duct tape.

Follow the directions and you'll be fine. You'll need a Phillips screwdriver to build it, and that's about it. If your Phillips screwdriver is one of those types with "bits", you'll need a regular one as there is a hole that those other ones won't fit in. Everything else should be included, including grease. You might want some threadlock for the metal to metal fastenings: https://www.amazon.com/DuraTrax-Pit-Tech-Threadlocker-2/dp/B0015H6DVC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492756164&sr=8-2&keywords=hobby+thread+lock

You will need a radio, receiver, servo for steering, and battery and charger. You picked a non-performance model here, so you won't need high-end stuff. You could probably get by with a cheap Futaba servo: https://www.amazon.com/Futaba-FUTM0031-S3003-Standard-Servo/dp/B0015H2V72/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1492756615&sr=1-4&keywords=Servo

For radio and receiver I'm hoping someone else can help. I have a Spektrum radio and receiver that I like a lot, but there are cheaper ones - I see Flysky(?) thrown about here often.

For a battery, I recommend a 2S lipo pack such as this. A 5000mah pack will give you around 20 minutes of hard run time and maybe more. Pay attention to how the wires exit the pack! Wires that poke out the end won't work. Neither will the kind that exit the top. You want a pack with wires that come out the corner.

Shop around on the charger. Get a lipo balance charger. Maybe someone can recommend a good one for you as I've got a fairly expensive dual charger. Help me out guys!

Go cheap futaba reciever and goolrc esc with a goolrc motor. Very affordable. Treat it right and it should last awhile. All purchasable on amazon. Don't skimp on reciever and controller sadness will insue. Same thing for servo go 3003 futaba. All affordable stuff even the knock offs are decent. Lowest grade but good stuff for the low price.


Reciever
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005EFZBB4/ref=sxl1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468889363&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65


Esc motor
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00Z9QF8UC/ref=sxl1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468889402&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65


Servo

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015H2V72/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468889656&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=futaba+3003





Charger https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GYPG5JU/ref=sxl1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468893518&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65

My gool rc esc burned up after 6 or so runs. Got a better esc from them with 80amps and was very happy. But I'm pretty sure it burned up because I abuse the shit out of my cars and was running a 3s at very high gearing also was ramping my car onto my roof and it fell a lot. I really like goolrc product for price and quality. This is dollar store electronics. Pay any less and you are in toy range. Literally my goal was to go fast on a budget. Now not with the set up linked but with the companies linked I've gone 65 and the products lived to run again.


I've tried lesser electronics and was nothing but dissapointed. These products I have owned multiple and only lost 1 motor and 1 esc due to abuse.very happy and don't blame them for the loss. Gear this shit right and you are so good. Owned all these products no complaints

I looked up your Lego Mindstrom EV3 motors and they can support 20Ncm = 2kgcm, so they can carry around 2kg.

I use lewansouls, they're pretty strong and they're 15kgcm at 6V motors:

https://www.amazon.com/LewanSoul-LDX-227-Standard-Digital-Bearing/dp/B077TXLWZS/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&qid=1525395925&sr=8-7&keywords=lewansoul

Also I've used this and it's pretty strong too:

https://www.amazon.com/LewanSoul-LD-27MG-Standard-Digital-Aluminium/dp/B07569WJ1M/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1525395925&sr=8-2&keywords=lewansoul&dpID=51XF68PmHqL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

I own the Sakura XI Sport. Can be had for $105. Get the speed passion 3500kv motor and esc combo on eBay for $50. Add a radio for $20. Battery and charger from hobbyking.com, maybe $40-$50. The hard case batteries with the removable plugs are the best type.

I bought the cheapest digital Hitec HS-5485HB servo for $20 (It's still running strong as ever).

Oh! and don't forget your drifting wheels! $9 free shipping ;D

That puts you right around $260 for the lot!

The Bombers are fun. I wanted one, but didn't want to have the same thing as the two of them so I went with the Wraith.

You will need to pick up a battery or two and a charger, so be sure to budget that into the price. The nice thing about crawlers is your going slowish most of the time so batteries last a lot longer. My friends get well over an hour of drive time out of their Bombers with 2s lipos (I think they have 5000mah ones).

The Bomber also uses the same steering servo as the Wraith. They have one plastic gear in them and it's the one that strips. It's happened to mine and one of the Bombers.

Here's the servo I'm running in my Wraith. It's much stronger and faster than the stock one.

https://www.amazon.com/BASTENS-response-digital-standard-Slickrock/dp/B00KO3HJVG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1468008682&sr=8-1&keywords=bastens+servo

Credit goes to my wife and her friend for the decoration. That was all faux fur from JoAnn's Fabric and acrylic paint. I did the frame and robot stuff :) I had to do a lot of work on the joints because they did not bend. I wanted it lower to the ground so the tail did not have to be so long and to give it a better look and more stability.

Dog skeleton (on sale right now for 10 bucks!):
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Home-Accents-Holiday-3-ft-Animated-Skeleton-Greyhound-with-LED-Illuminated-Eyes-6342-36559/206770838

Servos:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076CNKQX4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hardware:
Raspberry Pi 3 B+

Servo control: Adafruit 16-Channel PWM / Servo HAT (https://www.adafruit.com/product/2327)

UI: Adafruit OLED Bonnet (https://www.adafruit.com/product/3531)

I was able to stack both the servo control board and OLED Bonnet on the Pi. I love this OLED Bonnet because it has a joystick and buttons so it provides a mini UI. I wrote a menu program for the Bonnet that loads on boot and lets me start the program for the tail and do an orderly shutdown.

YESS! SCORE! I found the MG995 for 11 dollars instead of 16 on amazon, and a bought this other motor: https://www.amazon.ca/Rage-RC-S142-16-6VM-Standard-Analog/dp/B00MPW2N6K/ref=sr_1_4?s=toys&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1483721265&sr=1-4&keywords=torque+servo


Just in case. The best thing though is that amazon offered the 30 day trial of prime again, and since I live in Toronto, which is the city next to the warehouse, I had 15 minutes left for same day shipping. This is awesome! I was wanting to finish my tf2 sentry project today! YESSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSSS

servos are fun! I know so little about them, but I just had a project that needed one and I needed it quick, so ordered this on amazon, works pretty good.

Yes, you can get a continuous rotation servo to work in this application, but I believe you'll need to sense its rotation externally to the servo. Most continuous rotation servos I know of convert standard PWM frequencies to servo velocity, and not position. If you care about knowing your position, you would need your own sensing solution.

I know there are 'winch servos' that RC hobbyists use for sailboats and things like that, that turn more than 1 rotation and have regular position control over all those turns. You could look into that. Check this out as an example: https://www.amazon.com/Hitec-RCD-33785S-HS-785HB-Winch/dp/B000BOGI7E

I just bought 4 of those amazon metal gear servos. Supposed to be 20kg or 25kg torque.

They go by several no-name brands. Kinda thing I'm interested in becuase I'm always trying to save cash in the hobby. They cost around $16 a piece.

But, havnt installed mine yet so i cant report if I think it's any good or not yet. People in the YouTubes are saying they're good tho.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G34PLXQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4phlDbZ520H63

What I just picked up. I got the 4 pack.

The Servo can only move 1 degree at a time, while the stepper motor can micro step a fraction of a degree
(like up to 1/256th of a degree).
Distance * tan (degree * π/180 )Moving the servo 1 degree will move the point of aim 2.09 inch at 10feet.
While a high res pwm into a stepper could microstep 1/256 degrees giving you 0.0072 inch movement at 10ft

something like this will work to move 15lbs at a point blank. (21ft/inch torque) 1.9A at 5V maxhttps://www.amazon.com/ANNIMOS-Digital-Waterproof-Crawler-Control/dp/B07GK1G5FV/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=metal+gear+servo&qid=1555433131&s=gateway&sr=8-17

Pins 6,7,8 9 on the Duo have high res 10bit PWM output, which will let you run a single Stepper motor at 1/256 degree steps, However, the current provided by the Arduino Due will not be enough to run the servos.

You will probably need an external control / power board like this : https://www.adafruit.com/product/815?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIw62z04vV4QIVnbrACh35pQzWEAQYASABEgIBf_D_BwE with a 5A 6V Max,
this pwm board can be used as a motor controller that could handle two of the previously mentioned Servo's. You will need to solder on the extra cap for high power. I personally use this PWM board for every project I can because of how easy it is.

Edit: 0.17455064928ft = 2.09 inch

Hmm, can you give more detail on your clock?
I expect that 42 servos is 7 segments * 6 digits. It that your plan?
Typically cost $5 or more each, which makes your idea $$$
.
I did a quick search and found this link, I can't vouch for the part or the vendor
.
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Helicopter-Airplane-Remote-Control/dp/B072V529YD
You can get 10 pieces for $18, less than $2 each
I really like this line -- Sold by Miuzeipro and Fulfilled by Amazon.
.
Maybe these links will be useful as well
.
SERVO MOTOR SG90 DATA SHEET
http://www.ee.ic.ac.uk/pcheung/teaching/DE1_EE/stores/sg90_datasheet.pdf
Arduino Tutorial: Using a Servo SG90 with Arduino
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SfmHNb5QAzc
.
You will need some type of servo driver board. I suggest Adafruit or Sparkfun

Would you happen to have a parts list? I'd love to make a 3D Printed version of this, but I'm an extreme novice when it comes down to what hardware would be required.

https://moderndevice.com/product/educato/ Educato

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07MLR1498/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_NEvwDbMGHPGY5 4x 9g Micro Servos (only 3 needed)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06X8YZJ64/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_dp_U_x_xJvwDbXWTXEAR 9v battery terminal

Not sure what you're using for the Educato power plug. Could you share the power adapter specs? None of the kits seem to come with it.

Looks like a 3 pin toggle switch? is that a 2 or 3 position?

I run these Annimos servos and they are great and are super cheap. This one has twice the torque of the spektrum one

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076CNKQX4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_wFoUDbWRP70K1

I am trying to find a couple that attaches to [this servo](http://YANSHON Digital Servo Motor Gear High Torque Servo, Control Angle 360, 25KG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SMVFQCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hVB3DbFXXHQFQ) that can hold a 1/4" shaft. Everything I've read online says that if you count the teeth you'll most likely get the right coupler. It's a 25T but the couplers I order don't seem to fit. Any help would be appreciated.

If you have a UI on your computer, you don't actually have to be doing all the math on the robot. You can use a very simple board, which saves you a bit of money. RPIs are stupid cheap and quite capable though, so its kind of a toss up. Arduino has a higher GPIO voltage (5V vs 3.3V for the pi) and more pins going for it, though.

After that, it kind of comes down to your abilities and knowledge. If you want cheap and simple, you use generic $5-$10 servos. They need practically nothing to run, just a 5V wall wart and a 5V PWM. That will get you good positional control and really low cost.

If you want more power or feedback you need more sensors. If you want to get really advanced, active compliance would require actual motors (not servos), custom drivers with current control, and gearing, like 3d printed gears built into the frame, for instance.

I’d start with the tires. Crazy as it sounds. Are the hubs 12mm hex or some pin type. The pin type wheels are getting harder to find. If you can easily replace the tires, I’d would do so and replace all the electronics too. Add some fresh shock oil and you are set to have some fun.

Cheap Amazon electronics: $164 plus battery of choice
Servo: $18

Motor and ESC: $46

Transmitter and receiver (tx rc): $48

Charger (any battery type): $52

These electronics are a “welcome to the hobby” kit. The transmitter can be used with up to 10 models by buying additional rx for $10 each. The battery charger can charge any battery type and is the cheap industry standard. You would have to decide if you want to go nimh or lipo. Either could be had for $30-$40.
The brushless combo will bring that car to life while hopefully being mild enough to not grenade your driveline.

As others have stated. Look up a servo tester like this one on Amazon. Simple, cheap, and effective.

In electricity, there's a lot of components that will require you provide a +5v DC signal, 5v is a standard that we've set. There's also a 3.5v standard which is more common in phones.

With the use of relays and additional power sources, you can control more power than that if you need to, though.

Just keep in mind that electricity is largely about tolerances. Just because you have a 5v line doesn't actually guarantee that it will always be 5 volts. There's a range that is thought to be acceptable. Seeing 4.8v, if I recall correctly, is still a "5v line"

Here's a pretty standard servo. It's not an "arduino servo" it's just a normal electrical component that when you apply voltage to its line, it operates. Since it operates in the 4.8-6v range, you can absolutely control this servo with the power from your arduino.

Esc is universal in general as long as it takes a 540 size motor essentially for your purpose, something like the hobbywing 1060 brushed esc is pretty great for motors down too 12 turns i believe.
Hell if you have an old electric esc you might be able too reuse that if its not burnt up from something in the past.

As it has a built in lipo cutoff you can set via jumpers if you don't want too use an older type of battery like a nimh or nicd battery.

Servo is fairly standardized as long as it pulls less then the esc Bec circuit which most do unless you are looking at very high torque or very high speed brushless servo's

Something like a half-decent 15 kg & fairly quick regular cheap servo should do fine in the rc10 as its rwd & fairly light in the front hell you can go with a cheap 8 kg servo if you want too heh.

This one is pretty good on reviews it seems & has plenty of torque & speed even for larger models, order 2x of these imo, you might want another one for something else later or in case one of them turns up doa, which is a bit rare but happens.

https://www.amazon.com/ZOSKAY-DS3218-Digital-Waterproof-Control/dp/B01MU7TQV8/ref=lp_2234131011_1_6?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1568730244&sr=1-6#customerReviews

When it comes too radios you wont need anything advanced really 2.4 ghz pistol grip radio with built in memory too remember other models & receivers like a flysky gt3b & perhaps 2 - 3 receivers extra for other rc's perhaps down the line & then just lower steering dualrate and throttle dualrate if needed & if the radio happens to have that
(Some cheaper radios don't have throttle dualrate but almost always has steering dualrate.)

If you want a no-programming solution, and a servo suits your needs, you could also get a servo tester

• https://www.ebay.de/itm/Multi-Servo-Tester-3CH-ECS-Consistency-Speed-Controler-Power-Channels-CCPM/232506677028?hash=item36227a5724:g:BqIAAOSwhYdZz0lW
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/DIYmall-Digital-Consistency-Controler-Checker/dp/B012LZKTDO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1511054032&sr=8-5&keywords=servo+tester
  
  
• Perhaps replace the poti with a switch, 1
  
  and a servo.
  
  Or even a linear servo... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kCD_b7aXHgM
  
  

When you say the servo has stripped gears, do you mean internally, or the white servo arm that goes on top is stripped?

If it's internal, then another Hitec HS300 series servo should be fine as replacement.

https://www.google.com/search?q=how+to+control+motor+esc+with+arduino

These are useful for testing https://www.amazon.com/SIKAF-MALL-Digital-Consistency-Controler/dp/B06WVM46KB

I have that same rc. Good choice. I had to upgrade my servo in it right away.

I bought this and a huge difference

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07569WJ1M/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_j7MgDb31PAEPE

Any chance you could link me with some lipo batteries as per recommendation? Im not to keen on soldering.

Edit: so i checked, and the kit does not come with a servo. Would this servo be okay? [servo](Futaba S3003 Standard Servo https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015H2V72/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_paBhzbPF0JSN1)

Im on mobile. So formatting...

The kit is wedge only for now, to increase winningness. But next week when the CAD becomes open source, you'll be able to download and print the files for the servo lifter addition and throw some of these on.

Assuming you have not removed the servo connector from your esc's you could use a servo tester. You will need to supply 5v to the tester as well if you are using opto esc's

take all screws out and make sure the front piece almost falls off on its own

Get a cheap servo motor
http://www.amazon.com/Hitec-31311S-HS-311-Standard-Universal/dp/B0006O3WVE/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1411634957&sr=8-1&keywords=servo+motor

hook up wires to motor,
probibly a 5V motor so connect 3 AA batteries together for a total of 4,5V, connect switch

when actor bangs tv, someone presses switch, servo pushes top off TV

Budget: 12-ish $

Found it on amazon, and the specs show 25t, 5.9mm shaft. I'm not sure where you're looking, but online rc stores may be the key.

YANSHON Digital Servo Motor Gear High Torque Servo, Control Angle 360, 25KG https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SMVFQCW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_3UF3DbTYV7YQ4

You don't even need relays or angle position sensor at all if you use servos

Typical servo: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015H2V72/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1492882723&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=arduino+servo&dpPl=1&dpID=41bJ6ryi1oL&ref=plSrch

Smaller servos:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01608II3Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492882723&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=arduino+servo&dpPl=1&dpID=51yFqbET2aL&ref=plSrch

Arduino uno: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B008GRTSV6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1492882886&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=arduino&dpPl=1&dpID=51-rsyPvHOL&ref=plSrch

Bare microcontroller chip used on arduino (use this later in final build): https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00V2DVNYQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1492882925&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=atmega328p

https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/SIKAF-MALL-Digital-Consistency-Controler/dp/B06WVM46KB&ved=2ahUKEwiowMasndneAhWPuVkKHTFtCmwQFjAAegQIBBAB&usg=AOvVaw1EAvUvcIBAQf07PF1_X-X8

SIKAF MALL RC Servo Tester 3CH Digital Multi ECS Consistency Speed Controler Checker

This doesn't completely get rid of the need for a lot of servos but these ones are cheaper
https://www.amazon.com/Micro-Helicopter-Airplane-Remote-Control/dp/B072V529YD?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1

You could use just a couple linear servos to raise and lower the entire pin art toy up and down and use 14 servos underneath to move the individual segments into place.

If you don't want to go this route, I don't know if you have access to other materials or a 3D printer, but you could construct something like this

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=la30_i-NDFM

and use one rotational servo for each number and do the same thing where you raise and lower the entire pin art.

I looked into the two brands you mentioned, and all of the Hitec servos only rotate 90º as opposed to 180º from the adafruit servos.

The Futaba servos seem a bit slower than the adafruit servos. (0.16sec/60º for adafruit; 0.19sec/60º for this Futaba servo)

I'm not sure if that speed difference will matter. I might end up buying that Futaba servo anyway. My only worry is that the Futaba servo from amazon doesn't look like it comes with all the extras that are in the adafruit pictures...is that something that comes with every servo no matter where you buy it from?