Reddit mentions: The best reciprocating saw blades

I have a tool bag for in the house. I keep all the usual items. I can take a picture of it for ya when I get home.

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https://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DG5543-Inch-Tradesmans-Tool/dp/B001P30BO6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=dewalt+tool+bag&qid=1563036747&s=gateway&sr=8-3

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Out in the garage the other post got it right with the Harbor Freight tool Chests. You can't go wrong with them. They will hold up and last you forever.

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You want to keep stuff off the floor so I would recommend these

https://www.samsclub.com/p/members-mark-4-shelf-industrial-storage-rack/prod22160218?xid=plp_product_1_3

they are 2 Feet deep so can hold a lot.

If you buy two you can actually fill up a whole wall.

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I like these as parts organizers in my garage, Milwaukee makes good ones also. You don't want to go cheap on these, it is a bad day when you go to carry it somewhere and the latch breaks and spills out 1000 screws

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https://www.amazon.com/DeWalt-DWST14825-10-Compartment-Organizer-Metal/dp/B00AUVX394/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3DS66NM6H7SBY&keywords=dewalt+storage+organizer&qid=1563037131&s=gateway&sprefix=dewalt+storage%2Caps%2C224&sr=8-4

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I use one like this in the house to hold small parts

https://www.amazon.com/Stanley-25-Removable-Compartment-Professional-Organizer/dp/B00005QWYF/ref=sr_1_37?keywords=parts+organizer&qid=1563037496&s=gateway&sr=8-37

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Now for stuff I feel will change your life.

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If you do any electrical work, or for changing face plates. This screwdriver will change your life.

https://www.amazon.com/Interchangeable-Screwdriver-Klein-Tools-67100/dp/B003FC75YE/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=klien+screwdriver+fast&qid=1563037724&s=gateway&sr=8-7

I saw a electrician using it and I had to go buy one.

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I always have multiple sizes of these in the garage. They work great for hanging or fixing anything.

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https://www.homedepot.com/p/Deck-Mate-8-x-2-in-Star-Flat-Head-Wood-Deck-Screws-5-lbs-Pack-2DMT5/305418729

I just order Star bits instead of buying a bit set with a bunch a bits I don't use.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XYS26HQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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If you have a sawzall and some trees you need to trim these will saw through a 4 inch branch like it is butter.

https://www.amazon.com/PORTER-CABLE-PC760R-9-Inch-Pruning-Reciprocating/dp/B005DYMRA4/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_c__1/130-4777576-0899065?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B005DYMRA4&pd_rd_r=b176538d-8b66-4ae2-ae89-92e5aef62a85&pd_rd_w=eLDwX&pd_rd_wg=Z1XlH&pf_rd_p=4b985ee3-c51c-45b0-b742-d73501cbd701&pf_rd_r=7T9YW21VA3QFF00GFKS4&psc=1&refRID=7T9YW21VA3QFF00GFKS4

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These are great stud finders. They find the drywall screws that go in to the studs.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000IKK0OI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed 3 of these in my garage and the light output is amazing.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078B7KG1R/ref=dp_cerb_1

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can't think of anything else right now.

Sorry forgot the link.

9-Inch Wood Pruning Reciprocating/Sawzall Saw Blades (5 TPI) - 5 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B072WM881G/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_7CJYCb826152V


The blades hold up fine. If you run them against a single large rock they will wear down but otherwise you’ll be fine. I would expect the project to use 3-4 blades and take about 90-120 minutes. If you have a pickup and a good rope you can snatch them but DON’T use a car and make sure if you use a truck you are attached to the frame or something you are POSITIVE is attached to the frame.

Oh no, I mean stocking shelves at Home Depot.

And that's usually how I take out grout. Though, I used an oscillating tool with a 1¼" Shop Vac hose taped to it the last few times. It's a good Rockwell, so it has some oomph. Worked really well. Just have to have a quality diamond grit blade. I've also used these guys before. Easy to slip, though. I like them better for removing mortar from masonry work.

Yeah this is definitely a more recent addition. That's a plastic box, but still a "new work" model. Meaning it was installed before the wall went up, with nails on the top and bottom.

These are most easily removed with a sawzall, or a sawzall blade in a handle. Not too hard to do.

You'll want to replace it with an old work box, which has tabs that flip out and hug the inside of the wall.

I just bought one and I love that the blades can be installed 4 ways now, and the keyless blade changing is very nice. With the 18v XRP Li-Ion batteries it's easily as powerful as my old corded Portal-Cable. I was using it with a green wood blade the other day to cut up some branches when my chainsaw crapped out on me.

The blades came just in time! I used to use a short box saw (seen here) to both harvest the tree and trim the roots. I now use an 18" Corona pruning saw which lasts for a while if I treat it with camellia oil. Last year I brought my reciprocating saw with a wood blade into the swamp and root pruning was a damned sight easier. My friend, Mitch, put me on to pruning blades and I ordered a 5-pack of Bosch blades.

Next year, I want the 21" Corona saw. So, anyone who wants to know what to get me for Christmas, that's it right there.

Tomorrow is SWAMP DAY! WHOO!

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Note: "Just in time" is defined here as "remembering on Monday that I forgot to order the blades and now I need to pay for 2-day shipping".

I believe those nuts are crimped, and the threads are probably rusted and fused solid. You're in for a fight.

I got a Milwaukee 2767-20 M18 1/2-Inch Impact Wrench with Friction Ring specifically for dealing with problems like this. It is amazing and has saved tons of time. But an impact wrench might not work if the torx head is damaged enough.

Skip the torch. If you can't get an impact on it, your best bet is to cut the bolt off. You have three options: Cut the nut-side off and punch the bolt out through the bushing and axle mount. This won't work if the bolt has rusted solid to the steel insert in the bushing (it probably has). Option two is cut through the bushing directly next to the mount, and punch the bolt-head out. The last option is to cut the torx head flush with the mount and punch the bolt out along with the bushing.

For cutting, I recommend a saws-all with a carbide-tipped blade as the safest option. Be careful to not cut into the mount too much. If you don't have a saws-all, you could try to cowboy it with an angle grinder with cut-off wheel. Check clearance and geometry to make sure the wheel is actually big enough to cut through before the grinder shaft or body hits. If you cut the head, hit it with a flap disc on an angle grinder (most under-rated angle grinder tool IMO) to get it flush with the mount so you can punch it through. Hell, you could flap-disc off the entire head - would probably be safer than using a cutting wheel under there. 40 grit flap discs take material off amazingly fast.

Apologies for the long post. I've been where you are and like to help folks who are trying to help themselves!

This is what I did. You are on your knees, which sucks but little to no actual effort. And I got a great result.

This is the one I used:

(http://www.amazon.com/Simple-154-Attachment-Reciprocating-Multi-Pack/dp/B002GP7GBI/ref=sr_1_1/188-7830398-7918344?ie=UTF8&qid=1396029271&sr=8-1&keywords=Reciprocating+Saw+Scraper)

Definitely need a respirator.

Use a power scrapper attachment tool for the glue residue (something like https://www.amazon.com/Spyder-Scraper-Scraping-Attachment-Reciprocating/dp/B002GP7GAY ). As for the tool itself, you can either rent one or just buy a new one for like 10 bucks or so-the quality probably doesn't matter since its only for 1 room.

Hi, I stopped watching your video after you asked your audience about drill bits, and went downstairs to drill a hole through a Lenox Reciprocating Saw Blade, with a bit from this case, Bosch Cobalt Drill Bit Set: "Best used for drilling into light-gauge metal, high-carbon steel, aluminum and ally steel, cast iron, stainless steel and titanium." The bit went through the blade spinning slowly in about 15 seconds.

• Behold.

Thank you for the info. Are you referring to a blade like that? Lenox 20582-956R 9-Inch 6TPI Wood and Metal Cutting Reciprocating Saw Blade, 5-Pack https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0000224T4/

These are nice too... they use sawzall blades.

http://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-22-0305-Folding-Jab-6-Inch/dp/B003KINVKA

Exactly that. A Sawzall with a scrapper blade rather than a saw blade. Something like this:

https://smile.amazon.com/Spyder-Scraping-Attachment-Reciprocating-Multi-Pack/dp/B002GP7GBI/ref=sr_1_4?crid=3G808RF8UJH1J&keywords=sawzall+scraper+blade&qid=1570196991&sprefix=Sawzall+svrap%2Caps%2C205&sr=8-4

A circular will have a depth adjustment on the sled. A shorter blade can be used on a sawzall. An angle grinder can adjust the depth of cut by rotating the guard or by getting a specialized guard. A rotary tool like a Dremel or Rotozip will have an accessory that can be used to adjust the depth of cut. There are depth of cut attachments for oscillating tools, as well.

Something like This

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06ZZQY34N/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apa_i_kw5VDbPB3FGV2

Ymmv

This will work:

https://www.amazon.com/Bullet-Tools-CB53-0027-CenterFire-Insulation/dp/B0762MKF1Q

You can insert the end into a wooden file handle:

https://www.amazon.com/General-Tools-890-Adjustable-Handle/dp/B00004T7TG

Close, it was Actually one of these

Is this too big? You can use metal blades. https://www.amazon.com/Milwaukee-48-22-0305-Folding-Jab-6-Inch/dp/B003KINVKA

How about this? Scraper blade for sawzall

Use Acetone (like goo off) with:

If you have a multi-tool:

https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-MM600-Multi-Max-Rigid-Scraper/dp/B001IZT520/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491324466&sr=8-3&keywords=multi+tool+scraper


If you have a Reciprocating Saw:

https://www.amazon.com/Scraper-Scraping-Attachment-Reciprocating-Multi-Pack/dp/B002GP7GBI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491324593&sr=8-1&keywords=reciprocating+scraper

If you don't have either, you can pick them up from a harbor freight for fairly cheap.

They already sell stainless meat cutting blades for recip saws, here's an example:

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B07KXWH7QM/

For under $20, a simple hacksaw with a high pitch blade will work. Or for more get a metal cutting blade for your reciprocating saw.

And here...I gotta disagree a little bit. I've bought some pretty gnarly Sawzall blades in my time, with enormous teeth, some of which I definitely don't want to chance with a foot-vice.

The metal blades are pretty meh compared to flesh, but FFS: https://www.amazon.com/Freud-DS0903CP3-Carbide-Reciprocating-TPI-Fast/dp/B073WMHQX8

A 3 TPI blade like that can turn your appendage [pick one] into mincemeat in a big hurry. (Perhaps not as fast as a typical circle saw, with all of that rotational momentum, but whoa.)

I use Spyder 'Grout Out' carbide grit sawzall blades, in a variable-speed sawzall. You can go slow, not beat things to death causing more cracks, and a well-placed shop vac can manage the dust before it falls to the floor. Mount it 'backwards' so you can have saw motion parallel to wall for no 'stabbing' action, which can break adjacent plaster 'keys' holding wall to lath.

https://www.amazon.com/Spyder-100234-Grout-Out-Multi-Blade/dp/B00697YD9M/ref=sr_1_36?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIhpy8_vD25QIVchitBh2rfQcGEAMYASAAEgJr5fD_BwE&hvadid=338592080299&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9060264&hvnetw=g&hvpos=1o1&hvqmt=b&hvrand=9725992138552289837&hvtargid=kwd-328478307090&hydadcr=28600_10166534&keywords=sawzall+blade+for+concrete&qid=1574187415&sr=8-36

This allows the reverse-tapered profile shown in "B", so that your patch actually stays there.