Reddit mentions: The best recording signal processors

XLR mics with phantom power for the win! If you're going for professional quality sound, save your money and invest in a good XLR mic.

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The problem with USB mics like Blue Yeti is the fact that they use the integrated sound on your computer's motherboard. If your motherboard's sound system is older (2 years or older), the voice from the USB mic could sound robotic or it might not capture your entire voice range. This is especially a problem for folks with deeper voices. On older computers, you might sound far away or your voice could break up. If you have a brand new computer, feel free to use a USB mic until you can afford an XLR microphone.


XLR microphones require phantom power. Scarlet Focusrite (https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM) is a good product for phantom power, but there are affordable, good quality sound mixers that provide phantom power as well. Alot of streamers have used Berhinger Xenyx 302 ( https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-302USB-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B005EHILV4) or Berhinger Xenyx 502 (https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-502-BEHRINGER-XENYX/dp/B000J5UEGQ). I personally use Roland VT-3 (https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q) because it's a voice changer, sound mixer, noise gate, and phantom power all mixed into one machine.

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For mics, I admit I'm using a cheap Pyle PDMIC58 . (Hey, I got this XLR mic for free with my Best Buy points. I didn't have enough points for a good mic). My problem with the mic is that it's too bright for my voice, and I have a low voice for a woman. I need something that captures my full voice range alot better. I'm planning to upgrade to a RODE NT-1 mic (Not the Rode NT-1A) before the end of the year.

Like others have stated, take your time and do research. Don't rush! Find the mic that fits your voice best. Good luck!

I'd recommend working your way up to 7 mics. If you try to buy all seven at once, you'll end up getting cheap ones, and it'll sound worse than buying four good ones. Monoprice has a decent matched pair of condensors for $100. For the snare, you can go with an SM57. They're $100 new, but you can get them more cheaply used, and they last forever. I have the same ones I used in highschool, and they still work just as well as the day I got them. You can use it on your guitar cab, as well (or just buy two for live tracking). I also use a Beta 52 for the kick drum. That runs for a bit under $200.

As for stands, if you're not using them live, Guitar Centre sells a 10 pack for about $90. They aren't perfect, but they'll work.

So, for good equipment, you're looking at almost $600 in mics alone. You can get cheaper kits, but the sound quality won't be as good and they'll break more easily. You get what you pay for.

For bass, I just DI. You can buy a proper DI box or just plug into the interface. But, for $40, having a few DI boxes around comes in handy, especially if you want to record live. You can also mic the bass cab with something like the aforementioned Beta 52.

As I said before, you'll want an SM57 for the guitar cab. It gets the job done, and is pretty much the industry standard. You can spend more on fancier mics, but that money is best spent elsewhere.

As for vocals, you can buy a decent condenser mic from Monoprice, but to start off, just use the same 57 you've used for the guitar and drums, and just put a $14 pop filter on it.

Finally, you'll need an interface. If you really want to track seven drum mics, I'd go with a Tascam 1800 or a Focusrite 18i20. The latter is better quality, but also double the price.

Sadly, there is no good cheap method of doing things. But here in the digital age, things are a whole lot easier than going through to a 4-track cassette Portastudio when I was your age. If I was in your place, and had $1,000 to spend, I'd buy the following:

Tascam US-1800 ($250)
Two Behringer DI-100s ($80)
The Monoprice Small-Dia Matched Condensers ($100)
Shure Beta 52 ($200)
Two SM57s (or 58s) ($200)
The Guitar Centre 10 Mic Stand pack ($90)

And spend the rest on XLR and 1/4" cables from Monoprice.

After working on recording and mixing for a while, see if you want to expand your drum tracking, or if you want to invest in additional gear as needed. Nothing sucks more than blowing your budget, never using a certain thing, but having to do without something you discover you need.

And most importantly of all, have fun with it. It's a great experience.

boy you're just a ray of sunshine, huh XD

DBX is certainly popular, but definitely not a "standard in the industry." it is SOMETIMES used in studios for severe compression for things like drums or untamed acoustic guitars...that being said, VO vocals sound nice with severe compression as well, so it's okay for that application, but far from a general-purpose compressor and more geared toward live applications rather than studio.

with the DBX, you're painting in very broad strokes, but something like the TDR Kotelinkov has more versatility and will absolutely still sound fantastic (despite merely "mimicking hardware compression")...plus, again, FREEEEEE

unless you're really riding the line very close to CPU capacity, a single track DAW project with a few VSTs won't impose much CPU load, and most streamers already have fairly nice machines, so that expense is already covered.

allllll that being said, don't get me wrong, a good hardware compressor is a fantastic tool. I personally use a FMR RNC. however, I truly think that most of your readers would benefit from software solutions rather than hardware solutions. most are trying to find the most affordable route and are discouraged by being told they should buy more gear. plus, most streamers seem to use UBS mics as well.

I actually have that exact speaker! I put it in a DIY MDF box that measures out to a total internal volume of 3.5 cubic feet. I got a good deal on a used QSC ISA280 for $100, so that runs through this guy;

https://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-31-Band-Graphic-Equalizer-Subwoofer/dp/B00KLRP5CK

But, since this was a small purchase at a time, I should have just bit the bullet and gone with this instead;

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-NU3000DSP-BEHRINGER-iNUKE/dp/B005EHINAS/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1540510237&sr=1-1&keywords=inuke+3000dsp

It's a very powerful combo, but I only use it for music so I made the enclosure sealed as opposed to ported. This means it's doesn't play down into the low 20hz range, but almost all music doesn't go that low anyway. You could easily build or buy a ported enclosre and use the DSP on the Inuke to boost the bottom end.

I've been super happy with it as a driver, and am considering getting 2 of the 10" as bass drivers for a pair of DIY semi-open baffle full range towers I'm thinking of building.

Great sub, you will not be unhappy with it! I got mine because the goddamn Ultimax 18" is constantly on backorder. I've also surprisingly heard good things about some of the Rockville car subs, but ultimately went with the Skar.

Good luck, and I hope you get what you are looking for!

Older image of my in progress setup;

https://imgur.com/a/Ct1kKdz

And, while not the greatest box in the world, this could save you a lot of time and effort if you decide to go ported and not DIY it;

https://www.amazon.com/Single-Subwoofer-Universal-Speaker-Enclosure/dp/B00IFEG6YW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540510954&sr=8-3&keywords=18%22+sub+box

Hey I do this, and you might have read one of my posts, since I've been posting about it quite a bit in the past week.

Your observation about note detection are spot on. Rocksmith is intentionally lenient so as to give the user the benefit of the doubt. Hearing your sound from a real amp will absolutely clean up your playing. Some of the default Rocksmith tones are somewhat quiet, so it's often times easy for your guitar playing to get drowned out in the mix and miss out on some of the dynamics like natural feedback and sustain.

I use this thing to eliminate the ground loop. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1422679298&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+hum

You can do a test to see if it's ground loop noise by putting Rocksmith on a laptop and unplugging it from the mains. The idea is being that you only have one ground pin plugged into an outlet. There's a couple of other ways for testing and resolving a ground loops. The behringer unit isn't the cheapest way, but it's the safest for this type of temporarily created loop. It's a very reasonable price for a durable and functional unit.

I think playing with a real amp is a great idea and will improve your playing. If you have any pedals it'll also mean you have to tinker a bit to match the tones in the song. This can be handy for identifying and matching effects in songs. I love doing stuff like this because it pushes me to listen to everything carefully and figure out not only the notes I hear, but also the techniques and effects used to create the final sound.

I struggle in a lot of areas, but keeping readers engaged has always been a strength for me. Here are a few ways that work for me:

1. Get a voice changer. Check out this Twitch streamer who uses a voice changer to do a grandma voice to screw with scammers: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=igzPcgXd0XY
   This is what he/I use(s): https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q
   
   It allows you to do hilarious voices and the kids really crack up at it. You'll spend around $300 for everything, but it's worth something that is such a significant portion of your job. If you've listened to many audiobooks, then you know a good narrator can make or break a book, and it's no different in your classroom.
   
   
2. Every once in a while (depending on your group's stamina), have your students act out a scene. I frequently say something like "You know, I'm reading this, but I'm just not visualizing it too well. I need to see it. I need 3 people up here. Okay, you three are the Socs and Julissa is going to be Johnny. Show the class what it looks like when they beat up Johnny." Motion creates emotion, so while students sometimes will initially roll their eyes, it always brings their mood up.
   
   
3. Stop every once in a while and cold call (call on without warning) students and ask them to clarify things. I might say "RJ, this author keeps saying that Jonas and his family live in a dwelling. Remind us what a dwelling means in this context," or "So, we just saw our main character lie to her mother for the first time. Alex, what would you have done if you were in the character's situation?" As long as you enforce the rule that students must stay engaged, they'll pay attention just to avoid getting embarrassed if they get called on and don't know the answer. A few times is okay, but if a student clearly isn't even trying, then it becomes a discipline issue. I'm lenient if students can't find exactly where we are reading (because they may be listening even if they aren't following the words), but you'll be able to tell if they are paying zero attention.
   
   Those are 3 things that help for me. Of course your personality and energy level will determine if these methods work for you.

Warning: this should work, but these things can always be a crapshoot.

I work in pro/live audio, and there's a special piece of kit we tend to use to get rid of the kind of ground hum you're talking about. Typically they're called isolators/isolated transformers/isolated splitters/etc.

One of the most cost effective yet also most impressive variants is this one: https://www.amazon.com/ART-DTI-Transformer-Isolator-Interface/dp/B0009GUOQA

You could just get one 1/8" to 1/4" adapter, or a 1/8" to RCA cable or something, and try running it through this. It's a very versatile little thing. Any input 1 is matched to any output 1. Any output 2 is matched to any output 2. No need to configure or learn anything to use it. Plug and play, as we call it.

Someone will probably have a better solution, but that's how I would go about it. Best of luck!

Im looking to upgrade my audio into a xlr setup from a usb mic. I broadcast on Twitch (live streaming service) and I have some questions about what equipment would be best for my application.

For my mic, I was going to purchase the Rode NT1
Is a condensor mic best for what I'll be doing? (Disclaimer: I yell a lot)

I was going to purchase the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2
Is it worth it to purchase this two channel audio interface, or should I buy the single input version for a cheaper price? I'm only going to be using a single mic, but I read that the quality of the 2i2 build is a bit better.

My final question is on whether or not I should purchase a Compressor/Gate to reduce clipping when I yell, or is it possible or to compress my audio with a software program? Trying to see if dropping the money on the compressor would be worth it. This is the compressor/gate I was looking at: DBX 266xs

Thanks ahead of time! I really do appreciate your help! :)

the circuit board is probably nothing more than a shape with the proper spacing for the jacks & then they are soldered to the board & then the board traces go to the pins for the plug that the 'special' cord goes into.
if the special cord looks okay, then it's the jack or the other end (the radio).
without knowing whether the radio is okay or not, there's no saying simply go with it or even further, boost the voltage going into the aux input - because as pieces age & fail (same with being forced to do such early), they simply short out & that is like touching black to red.
easier to save the radio before large damage occurs, if the radio is the problem.
though if it is new, that'd be the aspect for the repair person receiving the hardware that replaces the fault pieces from the bags of pieces they had left over (if any, they might simply replace the piece with something better) & then clean it up to sell as b-stock refurbished because it had some fade to the common-wear pieces & they weren't all replaced.
if everything is epoxied, they are going to want you to buy that little board rather than open it up & replace the jack with a soldering iron.
best to buy fresh, even if it's a fresh knock off.
but really though, if the pins aren't bent & not making contact - it's either a dirty jack or a busted worn input.
though i just read that you've had the same problem with 3-4 phones over a span of time.
since this isn't something new, i'd say it is largely a problem with the input resistance of the radio.
it's the same as speakers, thus you know power which doubles can also be gotten as half.
in that situation, you are looking for something like this:
https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_108241_Install-Bay-IBR67.html
i run mine with one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-Ultra-Compact-2-Channel-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4
i don't know how the line driver sounds without the hd400, but mine sounds superb beyond rich & full.
i've got such a loud center soundstage that it equals the front speakers directly & the inbetween is all clear casting a center image like a hologram - there isn't a bunch of fuzz between the speaker & the center image that loosens up the center image itself.
i've got custom diffusors in the room plus down the hallway, which allows me a chance to be with less reflection buildup.
then i've got audio processing going on that helps additionally.
after that, i'd say get one of these:
https://www.parts-express.com/bluetooth-portable-micro-receiver-35mm-output--320-363

you'll save your phone's battery a bunch switching to bluetooth for streaming.
you'll save your phone's usb socket from stretching out after plugging it in all the time to keep up with the wired connection too.

I'd highly suggest XLR mics and an Audio mixer. For voice effects, you'll have best quality with a hardware voice transformer. There are lots of software options available, but they typically have limitations and quality issues.

Here's a few suggestions as to what you could use...

• Audio Mixer
  
  
• Microphone
  
  
• Voice Transformer
  
  Getting a good audio setup isn't cheap as you'll quickly see. lol. The microphone I linked is what I currently use and I love it. The Audio Mixer and Voice Transformer, I recently ordered myself so I can't fully say how good they are. But, they do have great reviews.

Focusrite Scarlett Solo and Scarlett 2i2 (Link 1). On amazon for around a benjamen. I would also get a DI box like link 2 to be in front of the Scarlett. This setup is pretty cheap but more than capable of recording, or playing through a laptop at Church. THe scarlet has output on back. hope that helps. I have both of these, great value.

Link 1: https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-Audio-Interface-Tools/dp/B01E6T56CM/ref=sr_1_3?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472744892&sr=1-3&keywords=scarlett+2i2

Link 2 : https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-DI400P-BEHRINGER-ULTRA-DI/dp/B000KUA8G6/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1472744729&sr=1-1&keywords=di+box

Received mine today. Pretty sweet looper, but unfortunately I'm still getting some hum. It's definitely not anywhere near as bad as the Y-splitter, so that's a relief, but it's still bad enough that Rocksmith is picking up a "B" note whenever my guitar should be silent.. hmm. This seems like it's messing with note detection a bit, and (as with my Y-splitter) I end up having to unplug a cable during tuning to remove the hum, because otherwise I can't tune some of the high strings. Tried recalibrating, but no luck. I know it's not my guitar, because the hum still exists even when my guitar is unplugged, as long as the Rocksmith cable is plugged into the looper.

I did some googling for "Rocksmith hum" and found some recommendations for this $25 hum remover, so I'm considering that. After reading the other posts, I was thinking there'd be no hum at all even without the hum remover.. oh well.

Other than that, though, it's a great pedal. Lots of nice features, and the ability to transfer your recordings from your pedal to your PC over USB is great. Definitely a worthwhile purchase even in light of the hum issue when used with Rocksmith.

Thanks for this. I just ordered a whole pile of stuff on Amazon with Prime. Came out to be a good bit cheaper than your estimate. I traded down on a couple of things like the vocal mics (Behringers for 1/3 the price) and direct boxes (half the price). The big thing I skimped on to make my budget was the mixer - I got a Behringer 12-channel mixer with great reviews for about $90. Hopefully it will get the job done.

Definitely couldn't have figured out what to buy without you. Hopefully this is everything we need for a great summer and beyond!

Like you said, it's not strictly necessary. I do think there are benefits for tone, however - and I didn't become a believer until I got a better one. This is the one that I am using now ($99). It's definitely a purchase I wish I had made earlier.

There are some other benefits with DIs - having a thruput is really helpful, both sonically and in terms of workflow. Personally I like to record amp and DI simultaneously, especially for bass. When recording guitar, even if you don't want to record an amp because you are in a small space or whatever, running the thruput to a little tiny practice amp is great for monitoring without latency.

Edit:

To try to quantity the improvement in tone with the Radial compared to a cheap DI or running direct into an interface: the bass DI has more low end, and the guitar DI sounds like a clean and dry electric guitar instead of a buzzy cigar box with rubber bands. If your interface has a Hi-Z input the difference will be less drastic (because there is no impedance mismatch), but even taking that into consideration the improvement has been really worthwhile for me.

Thank you Zeos for the RBH R5BIR video review (btw, link missing on this page currently). In that video you mentioned setting the crossover in your receiver but what about those that don't have this capability?

I have an Emotiva PT-100 stereo preamp. I don't believe the PT-100 has that capability (unless I'm mistaken). Is there an alternate solution for this? Perhaps something like the Behringer Super-X Pro Cx2310 or one of the Rolls crossovers (SX21 or SX45)? But for lower end equipment is this even worth it? Perhaps a cheaper solution is available? Or, by "just deal with it" should I conclude that bass management is simply not a thing for stereo-only systems?

Anyway, thanks for the video. If you have any video or material that covers setting the crossover point in your receiver (primarily covering what you do in situations where your electronics doesn't support it) I'd definitely be interested to see it.

This is the exact one I am using:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004NDJRKO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Before I ask my dumb question, wanted to give a big thank you! Pretty much ready to throw in the towel here.

Alright: So do I apply any gain on my mixer? The microphone volume knob, and the stereo out knob both give volume. I've been using these to avoid mouth sounds. I then added more volume via the compressor's output. I kept the gain knob on the mixer all the way to the left.

Here's a picture of the mixer: http://media.musiciansfriend.com/is/image/MMGS7/MG10XU-10-Channel-Mixer-with-Effects/J06370000000000-00-500x500.jpg

If I apply gain on the mixer, how do you stop mouth sounds? Tried everything from green apples to drowning myself.

Alright dude. I'll start with this and come back with the results. Would that be okay?

If you want to do it properly, you will want a USB Mixer that has both built in FX and Insert channels such as the Mackie ProFX8v2

And a dynamics processor Expander/Gate/Compressor/Limiter such as the DBX 166xs.

The mics connect to the mixer, then you use 2 Insert TRS(Tip-Ring-Sleeve) cables to run each mic into channel 1 and 2 on the back of the processor.

Inserts allow you to send audio to a processor and then back, all on the same cable (Example https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/STP201). It utilizes the 2 channels of a standard TRS connector, one to send, one to receive.

Because you have 2 mics in close proximity, the Expander and Gate will help limit spill from the other person talking further away, the compressor and limiter brings your dynamic range closer and boosts levels to increase your clarity.

This video explains how Inserts work

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NFArc1ZJdQw

Microphone:

• Audio-Technica AT2020 is totally solid (not the USB version obviously)
  
• Rode NT-1A would be a proper step up from there
  
  Since you're aiming to do everything in hardware, you will need a mixer, the Mackie 802vlz4 would be a decent option. Any Mixer that has solid preamps and effect inserts on the microphone channels will do here. Normally I'd prefer just using an audio interface, but they don't have inserts for hardware effects or volume controls for individual channels which you do need here.
  
  There are lots of mixers with integrated USB interfaces, but they don't usually allow you to send audio from the PC into the mixer and then back, they're just intended to allow recording the whole mix and often don't have proper drivers so they end up adding delay.
  
  Since this Mixer is purely analog, you need to add a really minimalistic audio interface like the ESI U24 XL or the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 (which would already be somewhat overkill since it has mic preamps which you don't need).
  
  Finally, you need a proper compressor. For this part, someone else might have more to offer, don't have a very good overview over the market when it comes to hardware units like this.
  
  
• The DBX 266 XS should be very solid, has compressor and Gate/Expander
  
• FMR Audio RNC 1773 really nice, but more expensive option, and doesn't have a gate. You'd need to get another device for that purpose if you go for this one.
  
  This would be coming in at around $470 plus microphone. More if you go with the FMR compressor and a separate gate/expander.
  
  Oh, setup:
  
  Microphone -> Mixer -> Mixer FX insert -> Compressor/Gate -> Mixer FX return. The FX insert/return is actually one jack on the mixer, you need a splitter cable from stereo 1/4" to 2x mono 1/4" to use it.
  
  Mixer Master out -> USB Interface
  
  USB interface out -> Mixer (one of the stereo channels)
  
  Mixer headphone out -> well, headphones ;)

I believe when adding shipping costs, the second seller (NU Image) in this list has the best price. Their ratings aren't so great. From a well-know seller, I think this is probably the best price. Both of them ship to Canada. Good luck!

An inexpensive solution that I have in one of my ukes is
this Artec piezo mounted under the saddle paired with this endpin jack. As you can see the components simply plug into each other. This is a passive pickup so it will benefit greatly/require an external preamp. I use the Behringer ADI21.

I've also installed the JOYO JE-62 in three different ukes for friends. It can be found on eBay from various Chinese vendors. It comes with a flexible wire piezo for under the saddle but I replaced it with the Artec piezo. This is an active unit with a built in tuner.

On the higher end I've installed MiSi Acoustic Trio pickups in two of my ukes.
All are good solutions for different budgets.

I just got a pair of jbl lsr305s and Im getting a lot of hiss. If they're powered on but dont have any inputs the hiss barely noticeable but once i connect them to my pc it becomes significantly louder. Im assuming I need a better dac ((current one)[https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0068IPE40/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1]) but before committing to getting a better one (probably an audioengine d1) I wanted to get some input as to whether that was the way to go.

I was also considering (this)[https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-MICROHD-Hum-Destroyer-HD400/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1491419301&sr=8-1&keywords=hum+eliminator] to put between my current dac and the speakers as an alternative method.

Any ideas on which solution would yield better results?

EDIT: i plugged my dac (USB powered) in to a wall socket instead of powering it by my pc and it got rid of all my hissing. The hiss is barely audible; down to the level I get with just the speaker powered on with no audio inputs. I guess there was some interference or grounding issue.

I can't speak to your insturment specifically. I did however, do a lot of research into acoustic amplification trying to make a nylon strung acoustic guitar work with Rocksmith.

You can get a stick-on Piezo pickup relatively inexpensively from Amazon.com. My experience has been that an expensive pickup won't significantly out-perform a cheaper pickup. Start inexpensive and see if the pickup is going to work before throwing a lot of money at it.

As you already know, you'll need a pre-amp to bring the volume up to a reasonable level. I bought this Behringer external pre-amp from Amazon relatively inexpensively.. This setup is enough to bring the stick-on pickup within an order of magnitude of any other instrument at your gig. You can then run it through an amp or a PA.

Be aware that a Piezo pickup will not produce the deep full sound you are used to with your upright bass. Piezo pickups will tend to produce really wonky response curves with a bit more of a synthetic tone than your instrument produces naturally. They work by detecting the vibrations of the body, not of the tone actually coming out of the bass. They usually pickup string vibration more than acoustic vibration.

If you want to capture the natural tone of your bass, consider using a Microphone pickup. A mic pointed at the sound-hole of your bass can produce very good sound, and is a very common way to amplify acoustic instruments. In fact, this seems to be the most common way to amp an acoustic bass.

A clip-on mic like the one I just linked will help produce the most consistent sound levels as your instrument moves around. But you can use a conventional stand-up mic as well.

A mic will be sensitive to feedback, so properly testing your environment and ensuring that there's no feedback is critical. This will still be an issue with Piezo pickups as well, though it won't be as much of an issue.

TL;DR: Mic your bass.

Not without spending some cash. I'm assuming they're coming in remotely? Or else you could just get one of those novelty voice changers from Party City or something. You could try to get one to them but you wouldn't be able to do a whole lot to adjust it if it ended up muddling them too much.

Otherwise you can drop something like this, this, or this into their line. But the cheapest vocal effect (that would anonymize their voice anyway) that you'd be able to control live is gonna set you back around $130. Unless of course you find it on ebay or Reverb. I got a $500 vocal processor for $250 from a pawn shop in LA via ebay so miracles do happen.

For the record if you go that route I recommend that, rather than use something that pitch-bends or distorts, you look for something that specifically "gender-bends" as this will be a much more articulate effect. My processor (the Vocalive 2) actually has a setting that legit makes you sound like a child. It's super creepy.

Before you buy anything (and don't pidgeonhole yourself into spending $100+ on a new dac as /u/Diablo-D3 says - he may as well be a Schiit shill with how much he's pressuring you to spend money with them) try adjusting the current setup first. Spend $300 on new equipment to fix a little buzz? Please.

You are using a USB dac/mixer as your dac stage. You're connecting through balanced 1/4" outputs - presumably these are line-level. The buzz only comes when when your GPU is under load.

From that we can extrapolate it's due to power problems. Go to the power management menu, advanced settings. There should be something there for USB power selective sleeping - make sure that's disabled.

The problem persists with a powered hub, but the headphone amp section of the 2i4 is fine. The amp circuit is removing the power problem.

I'd do a couple things:

Use a microphone to record the hum and see what frequency it is. If it's 60Hz (US) or 50Hz (elsewhere) then it's a grounding problem and a guaranteed way to solve it is to put a DI box like this in the signal path to the speakers to ground it. That whirlwind is the type of box we use at work for very long XLR runs and they work great. Your 1/4" outs would work fine, an XLR -> 1/4" cable would work on the output side.

You could also try the unbalanced RCA output. It could be a flaw in the circuit for the balanced output, or something is just barely touching inside.

A more 'severe' option would be to buy a power conditioner, but there is no guarantee that could fix it. Or you could get a new motherboard, that could fix it too but would be silly. A USB power isolator would work as well, such as this which is unpowered. It limits the output to ~200mA though, and the 2i4 probably needs more juice than that.

Really I'd look into the unbalanced RCA out first, since that's like a $8 potential fix for a cable. If that doesn't work a DI box should fix it.

I've already got Logic, which as I understand is a great option/competitor to Reaper, though some of my windows-using friends swear by it too!

I also already have an input/DI for sound box, sorry if I made that unclear in what I called it. I have the Focusrite Scarlett 2i2, which connects via USB. What I was wondering was if per my concerns about a clean signal through that from my guitar, I could help things by buying a product like this one to change my guitar signal to a mic-level XLR connection before routing it to the Scarlett box.

This is probably what's commonly known as ground loop. This is caused by electricity going in a loop within your setup. Crossing wires such as power wires and speaker wires, coming in and our of your wall socket, computer, and everything plugged in together, will cause this to happen and does not necessarily persist only within your blue yeti, especially because you mute it and it still happens. You may have introduced new wires or devices that brought more electricity into the mix, causing this ground loop. Best thing to do would be to unplug devices individually from your setup until it disappears, and then you'll know the culprit. This can be fixed by using a ground loop isolator (hum/noise isolator), or by painstakingly going through your setup to find the culprit, keeping wires as uncrossed as possible, and with a lot of luck.

I personally solved mine with 3 of these and possibly even this if it applies to you. Good luck

Might not be exactly what you're looking for (budget, hardware, etc.) but I know several females that have had great success with the Roland VT-3 (amazon.com link) in this application.

First thing... Never remove a ground from a power adapter. You're removing the ground from the wrong place and it can be dangerous.

Something like this can help / fix the issue completely: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4

It's basically a line level isolator. It sits between your soundcard and monitors and isolates using transformers. It ensures that there is no direct contact between signal lines as it only transfers the signal via the transformer, one for each channel (left and right).

There are a few models of this sort of thing out there but the Behringer is good value and performs well. I've had one in between my computer and monitor and casual A/B tests show that is doesn't affect the sound in any perceptible way.

If you don't trust Behringer, google "transformer isolated line level signal" for more boxes that do this.

Lifting your grounds on your power will get rid of your hums, sure, but it also gets rid of the safety function that grounding pins play, which is in the event of failure of your device, the power flows away safely.

The G6 is around $150 correct?

​

In that case, a Schiit Modi 2 and JDS Labs Atom would be a good amp/dac stack for the same price. An upgrade would be the Schiit Modi 3, Topping D10, or ODAC for $50 extra instead of the Modi 2, but honestly the 2 is pretty solid.

I can't seem to find the one you're referring to but it seems like the [schiit 2](schiit modi 2 usb digital/Schiit Modi 2 USB Digital/Analog Converter (Aluminum Top - Silver Anodized) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KX7LSYT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fei8CbFPRXCTA)) seems like that would work as both a pre-amp and DAC!

Something you'd recommend?

I don't use my mixer for streaming so I'm not entirely sure about this but you might be able to avoid keyboard noise by lowering the gain, if the mixer has gain knobs. If the mixer doesn't have a noise gate feature you could buy a noise gate pedal. Be warned though that pedal is cheap for a reason. For avoiding noise taint from a keyboard I'm sure it'd be fine. If you wanna know the mixer I have it's a Yamaha MG102c. For streaming though I use a Roland VT-3 which is a voice transformer. Besides the occasional effects I like it cause of the sensitivity knob, it's USB, and the mic port supports both XLR and 1/4". It also has a 3.5 mm mic port if you for some reason use that type of mic.

Sounds like a ground loop to me. I had some trouble with a ground loop a couple of months ago and this comment ended up helping out a lot to understand what exactly might be the source of the sound: https://www.reddit.com/r/edmproduction/comments/502u0x/i_cant_get_this_hum_out_of_my_audio_recordings/d71kmiz/

Biggest take away (and my best guess) is that it's an electrical issue. If you can't find it and are looking for an equipment solution, this helped me and is relatively inexpensive: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CCSWPQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Hope this helps!

I just got a Focusrite Scarlett Solo. When I hook up my guitar directly to it and run it in Ableton Live Lite, I have no issues. When I run my guitar into my Orange Micro Dark then into the Focusrite Scarlett, I have a lot of noise/hum, especially if I'm near the Scarlett. Now, my Scarlett is near my computer and if I'm recording, I'd like to be near the computer so I can control Ableton. Will something like the Behringer HD400 help with this issue, or should I look at another solution? I don't want anything terribly fancy, I just want to be able to record simple guitar tracks with Ableton to track my progress as I learn guitar.

Bravo Audio V3 Tube Headphone Amplifier has a 3 band EQ.

Before the amp:

• Schiit Loki tone control $149. Popular and well rated. Optional Schiit Sys $49 switch to go with it. Magni $99 is the Schiit headphone amp. All 3 would make a nice Schiit stack.
  
• Behringer MiniFBQ FBQ800 Ultra-Compact 9-Band Graphic Equalizer $70.
  
• Mini DSP - I don't know which one would be ideal.
  
  DSP Phono preamp.
  
  
• Puffin Phono DSP from Parks Audio $400.
  
  Also check r/HeadphoneAdvice.

Truthfully the in game sound is perfectly fine IMO and up to par with any DAW I've used, the difference is likely in what you're using to output the sound (the two 12" are going to sound a ton better than shitty macbook speakers or not amazing quality headphones).

That being said I'm splitting to the same exact amp for my setup with a behringer headphone amplifier and dehummer.

I've heard other people use tuning pedals or AB/Y pedals which may (probably) are a cheaper and better solution, but I can't personally speak to that.

The downside of this setup is that you're going to still need to keep your volume at 10 and your tone at 10 on your guitar for the best RS note detection.

For the microphone stand if you ever wanna change it...

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/PSA1Rode--rode-psa1-professional-studio-boom-arm

These are excellent, I'm pretty sure Joe Rogan uses these now... can't remember. And he uses the SM7B so that was a noteworthy mention in your post.

For your other stuff...

https://www.amazon.com/dbx-166xs-Professional-Compressor-Processor/dp/B004NDJRKO/

Pick up one of these one day. You don't seem to use a limiter, your strip doesn't have one, and this will handle that, and this would solve the volume extremities issue with your stream where my wife gives me that look because you start yelling at some alt-right dipshit after I could barely hear you talking a second earlier. Thanks.

Then I would change out your mixer one day. It might have some noise you aren't happy with in the preamps (maybe not), and if so try one of these out. Allen and Heath is famous for having completely perfect preamps

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/ZED60-10FX--allen-and-heath-zed60-10fx-mixer-with-usb-and-effects

They make a much smaller one as well if you don't need that many channels, obviously.

https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/ZED6FX--allen-and-heath-zed-6fx-mixer-with-effects

But I'm not sure if it's up to the same standards and if you do that deal where you send some audio back in from the mic out on the computer, I always forget the terminology that podcasters made for that trick. Basically to isolate who is talking to you and put it into the mixer directly and you hear it and your audience hears it, and you can turn them down, etc... On my allen and heath I had to mess with it a bit to make that work right. Something to consider.

If you don't already use a RACK, might as well.

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Desktop-Frame-Components-RK8OD/dp/B01NBPL8OP/

And I'd advise something like a power conditioner in the rack as well, keeps the gremlins out. I'm paranoid about sound, I use their cheaper power strips for my setup and it feels like it makes a difference, but maybe I'm tricking myself.

https://www.amazon.com/Furman-Conditioning-Outlets-Spacing-Voltmeter/dp/B00145EVJ6/

Just little things, but they probably won't be worth it overall. Stuff you might add to an amazon list or something. I'm a list guy. ;)

specifically, here is one example: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_10?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1520458356&sr=1-10&keywords=hum+eliminator
but there are tons of other options you can look into.
People seem to have good success with these.
I believe they have different versions, and this one isn't one that has the lift/ground switch i spoke of.

You can look into getting a Roland VT-3. It's a little pricey, and depending on what you have now, you might need to buy a new mic. If you're curious about it, I'd be more than happy to help.

Hmm seems like it's simple at first but in the end it's not. It's essentially up to whoever wrote the driver for your soundcard whether or not they provide an equalizer. Some do but most do not. Those that do you need to make sure it works for the Windows Driver and not just the ASIO drive. For example my TASCAM US-322 has an EQ for the ASIO driver but not for the Windows driver. On the other hand my Realtek has a software EQ for the Windows Driver but no ASIO driver at all.

So in my case if I wanted to use it for all general Windows audio I'd need to use my Realtek soundcard and the advanced software control panel to use the EQ.

Your other choice ofc. as other have mentioned is to buy a hardware Equalizer: http://smile.amazon.com/Monoprice-31-Band-Graphic-Equalizer-Subwoofer/dp/B00KLRP5CK/

It doesn't work the way you might hope but something like it is possible. You will want to read about Target Display Mode:
http://support.apple.com/kb/HT3924

After that, one of these devices should do the trick of enabling you to connect to the iMac in target display mode.

http://www.amazon.com/Kanex-HDMI-Mini-DisplayPort-Converter/dp/B003LGOWNQ/

http://www.amazon.com/Atlona-Technologies-AT-DP200-Signal-Converter/dp/B002JQPRPG/

http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-AV360-Mini-DisplayPort-Converter/dp/B00477ORBK/

Then all you need is a device with an HDMI output like a Roku or an Xbox.

Ground loop.

Plug everything into the same outlet. If that doesn't work, try a different outlet. If that doesn't work try one of these

The Behringer box solved my issues at my previous place. I recently moved and I do not need it where I am now, there's no noise issue. This leads me to believe the wiring in your place plays a role in ground loop / hum problem as I have everything setup identically to how it was prior to moving.

I use the BOSS Tuner pedal to do the splitting. I play both bass and guitar via the amp and have the instrument turned down in-game. I find it very enlightening to mute the game entirely every once in a while and play "a capella". Humbling but a great way to really hear where you're screwing up / need work.

Basically you will need a couple of things:

• Some way to get sound from your bass to your computer. I'd recommend a DI. Some amps include them, or you can purchase one for not too much money (e.g. Behringer has a $20 one).
  
• Some way to get the audio into your computer. There are relatively cheap USB or Firewire audio interfaces out there. I have a Focusrite Saffire 6 that was under $200 and works well.
  
• Some software to record and process the audio. There are many options; Reaper is relatively cheap and free to try.
  
  All told you can probably spend less than $300 and have a solid setup for most things you would do.

A standard instrument cable is a quarter inch Tip-Sleeve Connection. It is an unbalanced cable. Which is fine for use with instruments obviously, but can lead to electrical interference, ground loops, and loss of signal over long lengths.
When you use a DI you want to use a balanced cable, basically a cable that is has a ground connection. The two most common kinds of balanced cables are XLR, and quarter inch TRS (Tip-Ring-Sleeve). TRS cables look almost identical to instrument cables.

This explains the difference: http://www.sweetwater.com/sweetcare/articles/whats-the-difference-between-ts-and-trs-cables/

This is probably way more in depth than you'll ever need, but it is a good reference: http://www.sweetwater.com/insync/cable-buying-guide/

Edit: To Clarify, when I say DI I mean using a DI box like this http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-DI400P-BEHRINGER-ULTRA-DI/dp/B000KUA8G6/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417904828&sr=8-2&keywords=DI+box

If you are talking about just plugging your directly into an interface, an instrument cable will work just fine.

Good point! I guess my question is biased, based on "new-ness", but to clarify I'm not implying that either company is intending to rip-off the other.

And about the noise.. I've diagnosed the issue. Running the H9 in Pre/Post, I'm experiencing a ground loop hum/feedback. And this is without using an amp's FX loop. So I guess power isn't the main issue, it happens with both the Eventide power adapter or by a high quality, isolated PSU.

Now I'm looking at something like this. I wish Eventide's site/support would build or recommend their preferred ground loop isolator, considering how often it is asked about on their forums.

Well this interface is really highly rated, exceptional quality for the price and this DI box was standard use back in uni. Hope that helps get you started anyways.

I just went through the same thing with my usb dac. I tried a y cable with separate power source and then a ferrite cable. Nothing worked it was a ground loop. I ended up eliminating the noise with http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ . There are cheaper and more expensive options but this unit works great.

I am running the e10k to a little dot 1+ and I would get the same noise through the dac or sound card. Read more about it here: http://schiit.com/faq/amp-problems

I'm thinking of buying this compressor
https://www.amazon.co.uk/DBX-266XS-Dual-Compressor-Gate/dp/B004NDFRVC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1483828816&sr=8-1&keywords=compressor+rack

along with a mixer and at2035.

Also would i need phantom power to make this work or would i receieve that from the mixer or rack?

Any ideas on the mixers? Thank you for all your help as usual ;)

That sounds awesome. Is it this one by chance?

http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-FBQ800-BEHRINGER-MINIFBQ/dp/B000MJ406Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1452121903&sr=8-1&keywords=Behringer+9+band+equalizer#Ask

Does it take analog input and outputs analog? I'm guessing I would do dac to this equalizer to my amp.

What do you think of a direct input like the Behringer? It's got great reviews.

I'm confused on how to change my setup to only use the compressor/limiter/gate on channel 1 (or use both channel 1 & 2) of my mixer.

I have a A&H ZED-10FX, dbx 166xs, and a focusrite solo.

Currently I have the mic going into channel 1 XLR of the mixer, the main L & R XLR out going into channel 1 XLR of the dbx 166xs, and channel 1 XLR out to the focusrite XLR in and then out to USB to the computer.

I know this is not the proper way to set this all up but it has worked for a few months okay now.

Now I want to isolate the compressor/limiter/gate so that it only works on channel 1 of the mixer so that I can add in another input to it that isn't affected by the dbx.

I would prefer to only use 1 channel on the dbx if that's possible to avoid.

It looks like the mixer does not have a single insert per channel, but I do see a L & R 1/4" main mix insert. I think I need to somehow utilize that for the dbx and then just output to usb recording on the mixer and ditch the focusrite. I tried reading the manual for the mixer but it went way over my head as I'm pretty green to this kind of audio equipment.

1. Don't uninstall the driver; the driver installer should uninstall it for you, and then install the correct driver upon reboot. Disconnect from the internet while it's installing just to be safe.
   
   
2. That's one of the problems with the default Windows driver
   
   
3. Well... shit. Could be that your laptop just has really shitty integrated sound. And that statics sounds like it is badly isolated from the rest of the computer. You could also try returning/replacing if you can still do that. I'd return it and get a different laptop altogether.
   
   Have a look at the Behringer UCA202 (cheap and still OK, but bulky), or some other USB DAC in the meantime.
   
   There's also this and (my recommendation, if you can afford it) this. They'll give you way better sound than any laptop can provide, and they'll be completely free from any crackling or interference of any kind since they're outside of the computer.

http://www.amazon.com/Rapco-Horizon-LTIBLOX-Laptop-Interface/dp/B003MLFCMA?tag=s601000020-20

I've got one, and use it all the time. This is a mono-sum solution though.


Your amplifier is designed to receive two channels of balanced audio. Because of this, you'd only need the balanced transmitter, but you'd want to do it at line level. Reducing the audio level to a mic-level signal would raise the noise floor, as the amp would have to be turned up to compensate.

I like your Amazon link below.

The professional way to do this, is with a DI box. I think these are the best:

Radial Pro DI Passive Direct Box https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000A8J3N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gNYlDbW95JSWJ


But in a budget, an impedance marching transformer will do the trick:

Shure A85F Transformer; Low Z, Female XLR to High Z 1/4-Inch Phone Plug https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0006NMUHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GJYlDb4PE0T99

Edit: didn’t want to leave out the a solution.

Lots of things you can do with $25 on Amazon:

Behringer Ultra Vibrato UV300 pedal ($25)

Behringer Ultra Chorus UC200 pedal ($25)

Rock Band 25-key MIDI keytar ($24)

M-Audio SP-2 sustain pedal ($14)

Behringer Ultravoice XM8500 dynamic vocal mic ($20)

Auphonix 6" double mesh pop filter ($19)

Behringer Ultra-DI DI400P passive DI box ($20)

On-Stage single X keyboard stand ($22)

Andoer melodica ($20)

Andoer kalimba/mbira thumb piano ($12)

Big Thunder Tube ($30)

Small Thunder Tube ($8)

Angled Thunder Tube ($28)

Meinl Percussion 8" claves ($6)

Stylophone ($24)

Cables

Cable adapters

I used the Rolls XS21 for a 2.1 system I assembled for my neighbor. It was the perfect solution.

$25 on Amazon. I use these for all computers running into my setup. http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-2-Channel-Hum-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4 They work great.

Thank you for the response.

I picked up 2x balanced XRS to 1/4 TS cables to go from my mixer output to the monitors. No change, unfortunately. The same goes with a power conditioner.

I ordered this 'hum destroyer' which I hope I'm understanding correctly is an AGDC2, or ground isolator. I'll place it between my line out to TS and the input to the mixer. Hopefully that will help, as the output from the line out isn't balanced right now.

If that doesn't fix it, I'll probably have to return my 308s as I don't know what else it could be.

Thanks, though some are pricey. Since saving money is paramount for me, which one would you recommend?

This one, perhaps? https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Ultra-High-Performance-Passive-Injection/dp/B000KUA8G6

it's like what's under Drumph's golf pants:

Depends

If the mic input on the wall ( XLR right?) is set up for mic level you need a device like an iFace device or this interface ( much cheaper than the Iface) to step down your line level source to mic level.

If the system is setup for it, it may accept a line level input with the input gain set at a lower level for that wall plate input, but that still leaves the challenge of taking your TRS stereo unbalanced source, and summing the two chanels to balanced mono (XLR)

This little hum destroyer can probably take care of that. I started getting hum like that a while back on a split signal that ended when I added it.

If the venue has a mic jack like this, you want a DI box, and a dual 1/4" to TRS mini cable, and a short XLR cable. Venues often can supply these things since this is an extremely common request from clients renting spaces. Is it a community hall or a hotel ballroom or what kind of space is it? In community centres there is often only one or two people who even know the parts exists in inventory and the rest of the staff has no idea and might say they don't have it. Dig deeper. Also if you have musician friends like guitar or bass players, they may have the items you require to borrow.

I recently built a new PC and I'm getting a ton of high frequency noise over my studio monitors. My setup is:

Focusrite Sapphire Pro 40 -> Alesis RA-100 -> Alesis Monitor Ones

The sapphire is hooked up to a PCI express firewire card with a TI chipset. There is no wifi adapter hooked up.

I'm certain the noise is coming from the PC because the noise will change as the PC is being used/the mouse is moved in some applications.

I do know that my power amp does not have balanced inputs. Do you think getting a power amp with balanced inputs might solve the issue? I've also considered giving something like this a try:

https://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-HD400-2-Channel-Hum-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4

Thanks for the insight, I have a couple additional questions because I'm so green on this haha. Would something like this do the trick? And then what cables/how would I connect the two.

Here's an amazon.es dac for 40Euro, in the same vein as /u/Senkaichu :: HiFiMe ES9023. It's a common mobile dac and used often enough in industry to be a good, if cheap, solution.

Actually best way is to get one of these plus an XLR cable. Plug into the 'mic' input.

Rapco Horizon LTIBLOX Laptop Interface Device https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003MLFCMA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_rpVyCbZX2EM46

This adapter will properly combine the left and right channels into mono for your speaker, it also has a volume adjustment on it.

Last year's model of Schiit Modi - looks great, sounds great, unbeatable at this price

You'll need a USB cable for it but they practically grow on trees at this point

Hey Guys,

It's only fair I come back to you on this, I was very close to buying the Schiit Wyrd to try and resolve this, luckily I didn't need to, I found a solution.

The TRS cables between my DAC and the LSR 305's were faulty and badly wired (custom cables), so there were essentially running as unbalanced. As soon as I swapped them out for some other cables that were balanced, I broke the ground loop and and the buzzing stopped completely.

You really do have to work through your cables (Thanks Elnrik), if you don't have balanced outs or a digital coax / S/PDIF input to your DAC available, I would take a look at this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-MICROHD-Hum-Destroyer-HD400/dp/B000KUD2G4

It's had some great reviews, it's cheap and I've seen it work in person for someone else with the same sound when they didn't have balanced outputs available.

Thanks again.

https://smile.amazon.com/Behringer-Minifbq-Ultra-Compact-Graphic-Equalizer/dp/B000MJ406Y

Okay - two things. That's still a pretty minimal stereo. I think I'll wait and give it a listen prior to ordering this though.

I had the same issue with my setup. I'm have two JBL LSR305s running to my onboard sound of my desktop. I would often get a high pitched hum anytime I moved my mouse or whenever I was in the main menu of a game. I ended up buying [this](http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_sc_1? ie=UTF8&qid=1418913249&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=Humm+destroyer), which completely eliminated the hum coming from the speakers. If this doesn't fix your issue, I'd recommend running an external DAC like others suggested.

If you want to eliminate it for sure I'd go with a ground loop isolator. I had the same issue with my hd650s and it fixed it completely.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 This is the one I used but you'll need to buy cables to fit your setup as the ports on this one are all phono.

If you want to test if this will work try the dac on a laptop that's not plugged in, if the humming goes away then the isolator will fix it.

If If you look into purchasing what is called a DI (Direct Input) it turns the sound from your Digital Piano (through the headphones or output jack) and inputs the unedited sound into the software you use.

MIDI wouldn't ever record what you HEAR on your piano, DI would!

EDIT: I found some good ones on these links (they do cost a bit)

LINK 1

LINK 2

Doubt it would pay for itself, but just think of all the fun you can have

https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q

Amazon has this Behringer which looks to be about 24 cm wide about 12-13 cm deep by about 5cm tall.

I can't attest to its quality - but it certainly is small and appears to have mostly 4 and 5 star reviews.

Don't return it and buy it again, it's guaranteed to happen due to being a compact computer. You want just this honestly

Buy one of these and an XLR cable of desired length. Then plug that creation into the middle port. Done

Maybe something like this would work for you?

https://www.amazon.com/TC-Helicon-996366005-Perform-V/dp/B0182MIOOQ/ref=sr_1_11?keywords=vocal+harmonizer&qid=1554925159&s=gateway&sr=8-11

It has a built-in mic that is uses to track harmony/key, and looks to have added app control via phone to unlock additional functions.

I have already done some research.

• This one i could use directly
  
  
  
• And this one, cheaper, where i would have to buy two 3,5>6,3 jacks.
  
  
  Are there any better solutions ?
  
  EDIT : I found this one wich is cheaper and passive. And i could use it by wiring my Xonar to it with my 3,5 TRS to double 6,35 TRS and then connect the Behringer with two 6,35 TRS to my speakers.
  
  I think I just answered myself but if someone has an advice say it !

A DI box converts unbalanced, high-impedance signals into balanced low-impedance ones, physically it will take the 1/4" output of your DM5 and convert it into an XLR input to the front-of-house mixer. Basically it's there so there isn't volume problems when connecting electronic instruments into a mixer. In terms of relatively cheap DIs I have experience using the Whirlwind IMP 2 which are relatively basic in terms of features, but should work well enough for your setup.

I would start with the Cheap Dean Markley if you are experimenting. Piezo pickups like to see a very high (~10Ω) impedance, the difference in response when using a proper DI is profound. Links below.

Dean Markley: https://www.amazon.com/Dean-Markley-DM3000-Transducer-Acoustic/dp/B00542YQSQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1497045344&sr=1-1&keywords=dean+markley+piezo

Cheapest ultra-high-z DI I'm aware of: https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-V-Tone-Acoustic-Modeler-Recording/dp/B000KITQK2/ref=pd_sim_267_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000KITQK2&pd_rd_r=CF0BQGFFMPZTJ0TVM3W4&pd_rd_w=jRvQb&pd_rd_wg=tR8Rv&psc=1&refRID=CF0BQGFFMPZTJ0TVM3W4

[Something like this ?] (https://www.amazon.de/dp/B000KUA8G6/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_Gzb9AbC80P234)

Is this the only thing that you use for you setup, or do you also have an audio interface/DAC ?

My amp doesn't have a DI output unfortunately... would something like this be good?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000KUA8G6/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1479535732&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=active+di+box&dpPl=1&dpID=414veu%2B2FtL&ref=plSrch

There are ones that cost way more than this. My bass doesn't have active pickups so I probably shouldn't get an active di box rather than a passive one, right?

The "right" way to go from an unbalanced 1/4" instrument cable -> balanced XLR is to use a direct box. You can also get an impedance matching cable.

As for the cable you have, whether you bridge pins 1-2 or 1-3 is a matter of convention. Some systems consider #2 the "hot" pin and others treat it as the "cold" pin. See Wikipedia for more info

Depending on your budget you may want to put money away for something like this.

Roland AIRA Series VT-3 Voice Transformer https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IGDXK9Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gwhOAbVT433H7

The only solution I see above is buying a new av receiver + set of speakers, which I believe is far more expensive than buying a 5.1 home cinema with blue-ray/dvd player integrated. That is why I see the first option only as the last resort...

What about this?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B071KXR3G2/ref=dp_olp_new_mbc?ie=UTF8&condition=new

It has HDMI LPMC 5.1 in (exactly what Nintendo Switch uses), and optical/analog out (that should fit in the blue-ray/dvd player). What I do not see is the splitter function, but there should exist an splitter with this same compatibility...

Yes. This is the one I am using.

https://www.amazon.com/Whirlwind-1-channel-Passive-Instrument-Direct/dp/B0002DUQ72

Four bands isn't really my idea of a usable EQ.

Something like the Behringer FBQ800 is going to have a lot more utility.

Sounds like you aren't using one of these.

I read about the use of balanced cables or something like this https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4 which i might try first as they are cheaper. Do you happen to know something about any of those?

You could try something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/PAC-SNI-1-Noise-Isolator/dp/B000K50HJE/

or

https://www.amazon.com/ART-DTI-Transformer-Isolator-Eliminator/dp/B0009GUOQA/

But, if that doesn't work, you're probably gonna need an electrician to install a grounded outlet.

When you use the walkie talkie (or indoors seems like there might an echo added) in the game it sounds like a PA, doubt he was using anything.
edit: its this https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q

Get a cheap DI box

Something like this should work

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-DI400P-BEHRINGER-ULTRA-DI/dp/B000KUA8G6/

This has been suggested as a solution for USB ground loop issues. Search this sub for ground loop and you'll find lots of discussion.

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-Ultra-Compact-2-Channel-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4

USB to 3.5mm, you mean a tiny-dac... Then yes... If it's something like the dragonfly then yes... Otherwise, no. A cable wont work. You need a dac to turn the digital (usb) signal into analog for normal headphones. AKA a digial to analog converter (dac).

edit: dragonfly is 99$ a bit high for what you prob need. I would look at something like this if you're tough on cash http://www.amazon.com/HiFiMeDIY-Digital-Analog-Converter-PCM2706/dp/B00CWVDPC0/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1458415493&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=usb+tiny+dac

[If anyone is curious this is what he says he uses.]
(https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1522289711&sr=8-2&keywords=roland+aira+series+vt-3+voice+transformer&dpID=51hXvKYtR2L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch)

Power conditioner, make sure the TS cable is nowhere near power cables (or perpendicular to them). If the noise gate plugin doesn't work, you could try hum destroyers.

Yeah, just get a Direct Box to take your XLR and convert it into a 1/4". I saw Bradford Cox live a while ago and he was doing exactly that. Here's a picture you can see he's using a GrooveTubes Direct Box to get his mic into those pedals on the right. I know Behringer make a budget one for $40 or so if you wanted to give it a go before shelling out for anything more expensive.

This is the one he uses. 200 bucks so it better be worth it!

I want to equalize the output of a DAC without compromising the quality. I'm ok with the output for music, but I need to make some tonal arrangements for gaming. Is this one going to bottleneck the sound?

Before trying any crazy DIY solutions, try using balanced cables with your interface or try a ground loop isolator or hum destroyer. It may cost a little, but you can just return it if it doesn't work. Get something like this:

​

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_1?s=musical-instruments&ie=UTF8&qid=1536690208&sr=1-1&keywords=behringer+hum+destroyer

This one: https://www.amazon.com/Whirlwind-1-channel-Passive-Instrument-Direct/dp/B0002DUQ72/

​

However, it's also worth noting that the monitors pick up the radio signal to some degree even with no audio cable plugged in. So not sure if balancing the audio would even help that.

This is what I do too. I did however get some ground effect hum from both the amp and Rocksmith when using a Y splitter though so I had to use a hum eliminator like this one. Which of course added two more cables to the setup for a total of three instrument cables not including the RealTone cable. Worth it though.

I later remember that there exists standalone LPCM decoders (like this https://www.amazon.com/HDMI-LPCM-Analog-Surround-Decoder/dp/B071KXR3G2), so if your system allows direct audio input you could try it ;)

I don't know of any alternatives to asio except using window's Direct Sound and that was awful in my experience. If you have another input available on your interface maybe you could play your tracks from your phone or tablet? But you would likely need an adapter like this http://www.amazon.com/Rapco-Horizon-LTIBLOX-Laptop-Interface/dp/B003MLFCMA

You have a ground loop. I have a laptop and mixer setup (both on AC) that did this. They were connected through 1/4" audio plugs and had unbelievable noise for a bit. I used a noise/hum eliminator to separate the grounds between the equipment. This one from Behringer did the trick! http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4 Put it in between the splitter and your amp and set the rocksmith mixer to zero.

$149 there the passive Schiit Loki 4 band tone control -

• https://www.schiit.com/products/loki
  
  and a semi-mini EQ from Behringer for $69
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-FBQ800-BEHRINGER-MINIFBQ/dp/B000MJ406Y/

Is this a good option for a cheap 'preamp' from an under soundboard passive pickup to a small amp, just for insode use, not gigging or anything?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KITQK2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5QHHzbWJH1P7Q

Personally I would use an LTIblox and an XLR cablefor this situation. It will take your 3.5mm headphone jack and send it to mic level XLR with an easy to access volume dial. Its not the cheapest solution, but it is what I would do.

You'd need to put something between the Theremin and the amplifier in the powered speaker to isolate them, and match the impedance of a line-level input. I'd suggest something like a DI, or Direct Inject, Box which is a piece of professional audio equipment meant to do just that.

Billy Sheehan is using a Rolls Two Way Tiny Crossover to remove the lows from his upper frequency amp. A look at one of his rig rundowns will give you some good ideas about running a dual amp system.

https://www.amazon.com/rolls-Tiny-2-Way-Crossover-SX21/dp/B00102VW6S

youll probably need a standalone mic and pass through an audio input. sdtone mountain 64 does audio changes (for pebble hill and CO roleplay) his website says he uses a Roland VT3 with a Shure SM7B mic. any headset with it built in will have even less of the fine tuning youre after

Damn you I wish I had a 303 haha. I bought an external compressor to make up for mfx 12 (I'm not a fan of it). This thing is beast, and the two modes are so different it's kinda crazy how much you can use this to shape your sound over the 404sx.

On the off chance that anyone has the same issue, buying this completely solved the problem without any noticable loss in audio fidelity. I have it in between my sound card and my speakers. I was very dubious, especially with Behringer's reputation for budget gear, but it's solved everything.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Behringer MICROHD Hum Destroyer HD400 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E1FgzbPJ0HQXF

Try this it worked for me.

Kind Regards

You don't need to run it stereo, just buy something like an LTI block, or just a 3.5 to xlr. We use LTI blocks for everything from laptops to iPads, phones, etc. Don't run phantom power on that channel. Looks like you cant turn it off to specific channels, so use a DI so that you dont fry anything


https://www.amazon.com/Rapco-Horizon-LTIBLOX-Laptop-Interface/dp/B003MLFCMA

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-Ultra-DI-DI100-DI-Box/dp/B000CCSWPQ

Looking at this, it might work as an interface between the mixer and the guitar.. right?

How about this Behringer guy?

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-FBQ800-BEHRINGER-MINIFBQ/dp/B000MJ406Y/

This is basically like coil whine. I had this with WoW and KRK's too! Basically just electrical interference from your graphics card being picked up by your KRK's - you'll notice the buzzing changes as your framerate changes. I fixed mine with one of these: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Behringer-MICROHD-Hum-Destroyer-HD400/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=passive+hum+destroyer&qid=1562644272&s=gateway&sr=8-3

https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q

He uses a Roland AIRA Series VT-3 Voice Transformer combined with a slight accent in his voice.

Source of info - https://youtu.be/n3qao9cPxYA?t=7m45s

Roland AIRA Series VT-3 Voice Transformer -
https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q

$20 D.I. Box powered from the speaker:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-DI400P-BEHRINGER-ULTRA-DI/dp/B000KUA8G6/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_267_bs_lp_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=E60VVX77Y170MGHQRTSW

I believe hes still using https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Microhd-Ultra-Compact-2-Channel-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-Microhd-Ultra-Compact-2-Channel-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492456662&sr=8-1&keywords=buzz+box

https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q

Dude, are you fucking daft?

Equalizers. They are things. Buy one, plug it in, and use it.

Roland VT-3

http://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-Series-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q

I used one of these to fix it when I was using RCA.

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-Ultra-Compact-2-Channel-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4

I think this might be the one: https://www.amazon.com/Roland-AIRA-VT-3-Voice-Transformer/dp/B00IGDXK9Q

After a bit more investigating I came across this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

For $29. I think I might go ahead and pick one up, I'll let you all know if it works

My gaming machine is a 6700K, 1080ti.

My streaming machine is a 2700x with a 1070.

My capture card is Avermedia 4k: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DHSZC4K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

My mixer is this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0039PPW60/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have an AT2035 for a mic.

From there it's just an xlr cord, a couple 1/4 to 3.5mm cord to hook to my gaming computer.

I have two https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1 to keep the hum away that might happen.

Rapco LTIBLOX is exactly what you need. It converts a stereo PC miniplug into a balanced mic-level XLR, with a volume knob. It's cheap, too!

I had a similar issue and used this.

https://www.amazon.ca/Behringer-HD400-2-Channel-Hum-Destroyer/dp/B000KUD2G4

Not a guarantee but it worked for me

Looks like you're using a mixer, so I would add in a "hum destroyer" in-line with each source coming from the streaming PC and the gaming PC into the mixer.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/

Try this between the DAC and the amp https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523346455&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+hum+destroyer

Still, your issue is a weird one. The USB DAC should get rid of the buzzing when your GPU is under load. You could try a cheaper Fiio DAC as an alternative and see if the buzzing is still there instead of the $150 Modi 2 and possibly return it if it doesn't work.

I had the same ground loop issue when I first got my monitors (also using scarlet interface). I stuck this ( https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1526981643&sr=8-1&keywords=behringer+hd400 ) between interface and monitors and problem solved. Passive, two ins, two outs, basically a zero-gain transformer I think. Only around 30 euro too.

I've had SOME success at long last. After inspecting the cables that came with the set carefully, i noticed that they were not balanced at all. Just because I was using a balanced connection doesn't mean I was using balanced cables. I assumed they were without checking as they came with the speakers as part of a bundle.

You can check this yourself by the amount of rings on the tip of the cable. If there is one black ring, it is not balanced, if there are two, then it is balanced.

Anyways this reduced the buzz by about 60/70%. The issue is still there but at a much reduced level. I will be trying this Hum Destroyer to see if it will break the ground and remove the problem entirely.

Right now you’re sending left and right signals to a balanced input that is inverting the polarity of one of those signals, hence the horrible sound. You need to sum your left and right (tip and ring) signals before they hit the input of your transmitter.

With some soldering skills, you can make your own 1/8 TRS to XLR(M) summing cable

Or you can buy a summing box that is purpose-built for connecting 1/8” headphone outputs to balanced XLR inputs. Like this one.

Have you considered the Behringer Hum Destroyer? It's what I use to get rid of pesky ground loops.

You have a similar setup to what I have, and the noise sounds pretty much the same as what I used to have in my setup. What I had to do was add in two hum destroyers (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000KUD2G4/), one in-line between each PC and the mixer.

I have a cord from the PC's speaker out, which splits into two RCA males for L/R (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0094A1F3S/), and plugs into the hum destroyer, and then another set of cords from the hum destroyer into the mixer (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I0HPK6O/). Same setup from each PC (streaming and gaming).

After adding those, my sound is crystal clear now. So can't guarantee that will fix your problem, but it fixed mine, which sounded similar.

I would recommend using a crossover for that kind of setup. Even with the lows turned down on the guitar amp, you still risk damaging the speakers.

Had the same exact problem - this little guy fixed it. No change to the sound quality.

Hello, sorry to pick your brain again but I'm still having some issue here. My current set up is as follows: Roland Fantom X8 keyboard -> 1/4 inch cable (3ft) -> Behringer Passive DI Box -> XLR to TRRS Smartphone Adapter -> HTC Desire Eye . I confirmed that the XLR to TRRS adapter follows the CTIA standard which I understand should work with the HTC (Android) phone. I tried simply recording video with the phone's built in camera app, however the phone is only picking up ambient noise using its built in mic. I tried recording audio only using the phone's "voice recorder" tool, with the same result. When I test record my voice using a headset with in-line mic, I have no problems. So my guess is that there is still some issue with the XLR to TRRS adapter. Is there something that I'm missing?

Had the same problem, horrible noise coming from my JBL 305 when my GPU was under high load. Bought the Behringer HD400 and it eliminated the problem completely. I personally don't notice any loss in quality, it sounds better since there isn't any extra noise in the signal. I have my DAC/preamp going into the HD400 with 1/4"-1/4" jacks, and then 1/4"-XLR cables going to my speakers.

Whirlwind Director has been an industry standard for as long as I can remember. Either that or the Imp 2.

Never tried the Direct 2, myself, but it sounds like you could kill two birds with one DI.

I had a very similar issue with my hs8 monitors and it turned out to be a ground loop problem. If you Google "ground loop speaker noise" you should find a ton of forums with people dealing with this. Since it only happens in one part of your house that's what makes me think it might be a bad ground somewhere in that circuit you're connecting to. For me what fixed my problems (and this fucking PLAGUED me for like 8 months) was just using this little guy: BEHRINGER MICROHD HD400
It's pretty cheap so might be worth a shot. This little box is the last part of my chain before it hits my monitors. But Google around for ground isolation problems and see what worked for other people as well. And also use a decent power strip for your monitors, not a chippy chappy old ass one you found stashed in your parents closet (we all havem).

Sound Blaster 3.5mm TRS To 1/4" TS into the 305s.

Have also tried motherboard 3.5mm out.

Same power strip. I have tried different outlets including different places in the house.

I cannot detect it with headphones at all.

Tonight I went crazy and ripped apart every single connection to my PC one by one then I went as far as removing the Sound Blaster, even removed my GTX1080 graphics card. I literally had nothing left connected to my computer not even a monitor. With just ONE LRS305 plugged into the 3.5mm motherboard out and the power cable to the PC power supply I pressed the power button and the Hums and Crackles were still present.

This doesn't happen when I connect the speakers using the same wire to my cell phone. It DOES however happen if I connect the LRS305s to my cell phone and plug my cell phone into my PC USB to charge.

At this point its obviously the PC motherboard or power supply.

My work around has been to put the volume knob on the back of the LRS to about 2.5 out of 10 and then crank up the DB settings on the Sound Blaster to +20 for each speaker. This makes it to where I can do daily tasks no problem and even enjoy some music at a moderate levels but I have noticed that the speakers don't seem to perform the right way when doing this even if the sound is being reproduced at relatively the same volume to my ears. Turning the knob up on the speakers even while lowering the volume in windows to compensate feels like it makes the speakers perform differently.

Also when I move around my mouse cursor on the screen it introduces a sort of electrical whine noise. And when playing a game it amplifies the hum. Again with the volume knob on on low settings I don't notice this.

My initial post was kept short with the intent to avoid having people to read this much but since you asked I figured I'd elaborate.

I'm so frustrated that I'm really considering returning the speakers and just getting the 2.1 Klipsch Pro Media at Best Buy for about 40% the cost. I probably won't enjoy the sound quality as much but at least I won't go insane trying to solve this issue without dumping more money into it.

But back to my original post about the Fiio and Behringer UC202. Do you have any info on this?

I also stumbled across a BEHRINGER MICROHD HD400 https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-HD400-BEHRINGER-MICROHD/dp/B000KUD2G4/ref=pd_sim_267_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=WKE1J7XXB0PJZKX2PDG4. This seems like it might be exactly what I need. Any idea?

One more thing the cable I'm using is a Hosa Stereo Breakout 3.5mm TRS To Dual 1/4" TS. My question is why can't I find a 3.5 TRS to 1/4" TRS just TS? Is my cable still considered balanced? Can this be causing a problem for my setup? Sorry if that's a stupid question but I'm lost when it comes to this stuff.

Thanks!