Reddit mentions: The best remote-control extenders

What IR receiver are you using? What software are you using?

Keep in mind that a remote control is not and should not be a replacement for a keyboard. That means your day-to-day software needs to work with a remote, but you may need to occasionally bring out a kb/mouse when you need to do something more complex (should be rare).

For example, my setup consists of a Microsoft-branded Windows Media Center IR receiver (other brands work just as well, but I've had this one since ~2005 and it still works great), a Harmony One, a Logitech diNovo Mini, and a wireless Xbox 360 controller and dongle. For day-to-day stuff, the Harmony controls everything -- Windows Media Center for TV and XBMC for everything else. When I want to play a game, I load Steam Big Picture mode from XBMC and use either the Harmony or the Xbox 360 controller to navigate to and launch the game I want to play. Obviously I use the controller in the game. When I'm done, I exit out of Steam and end up back in XBMC, where the Harmony takes over again. For the rare times when I need to do something more complex (install new software, mostly), the dinovo mini comes out just long enough to complete the task. The Harmony also flawlessly controls my Xbox 360 and PS3 (via the Bluetooth adapter).

As for range issues, how far away do you sit from your components? If they're not directly in your normal line of sight, you might want to consider replacing the Harmony One with a Harmony 900 instead (the RF version of the One).

It's very possible with unraid. Are you actually needing the "raid" part or are you just looking to have a single PC with two video cards be two computers via vituals machines and gpu passthrough? Unraid has a trial period. If you look up space invader he has some videos about virtual machines with you passthrough. I've done this exact thing for the exact purpose you are saying. However I also use many other features of unraid. Unraid makes the process easy but costs $$$. Unraid uses kvm for it's virtual machines. Everything unraid does can be found for free. It just takes more effort depending on skill. Ubuntu server with kvm is pretty easy to setup for what your saying you want. I've setup everything you are wanting and more using free Linux software. Unraid is just easier in my opinion. Especially when I wanted to move hardware.

Edit: it's not over FireWire it's over cat 5. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ56875/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_XpzMDb1TVQSD4

Personally I would remove the left and right drawers and add doors instead. Possibly even remove the middle drawer as well and add a basket to the bottom, middle shelf. Then you would have two open shelves, a basket and two cabinets. The similar project you're referencing has the shelves in-between the old drawers removed which is why it doesn't look like a dresser anymore. I don't have any experience doing this so I would just add doors and turn them into cabinets. You would still be able to use whatever blu-ray players etc that are inside the cabinet by buying one of these. I use a similar one because my soundbar covers the sensor on my tv and it works great. Anyways, I love the charm of the dresser and glad to hear you're preserving it. Good luck!

I have the Harmony 1100 with an RF extender. It looks nice (and impressive) works great, and has on screen controls for stuff like the xbox giving you the A,B,X,Y controls; which is good for stuff like Netflix so you dont have to waste your xbox controller battery. Great for multiple devices, I think it can handle up to 15. Its really simple and intuitive to use too.

Since someone recommended a TV I'll talk about remote real quick. Logitech Harmony remotes are probably the best choice for ease of set up and versatility. They have nice 1 button clicks to turn on and off everything and easy to understand button layouts making it wife and visitor friendly.

Like these. I've used the Harmony 650 and it works great but there are a lot other remotes as well to give you other features you might want.

If the equipment will be hidden you will likely need a infrared remote repeater to turn on the amplifier.

Like this. Basically you have the receiver stuck to the bottom of the TV or somewhere that is line of sight from where you use the remote. Then stick the infrared transmitters on the front of your devices (other than the TV because it will have line of sight to your remote) and all signals the receiver sees are repeated to all devices.

Again as far as amplifier I still say get the model/watt information on the speakers and then go to Best Buy Magnolia.

Yes, but it's not cheap. If you use a Logitech harmony universal remote you can get this adapter;
http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Adapter-PlayStation-3/dp/B00267S7XW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1341948756&sr=8-1&keywords=logitech+ps3+adapter

I have it and it works quite well, but with a tiny bit of lag. The official Sony bluetooth remote is fantastic and has great response. I have both but usually just use the Logitech Harmony to turn on and navigate Netflix and Vudu.

Tomb Raider & Rise of the Tomb Raider are two Xbox games that should be in everyone's library. Both are fantastic single player games, with a great story. Bit heavy on the quick time events, though.

Star Wars Battlefront has some decent splitscreen gameplay, although it's pretty much lacking in any other content. Halo MCC also has splitscreen support, and all four Halo titles in the one box.

Halo 5 does NOT have splitscreen gameplay, and the storyline is pretty damn short, so be sure to keep that in mind if you're not interested in playing online.

EA Access is pretty nifty, as is an Xbox Live subscription, which gives you free games to keep each month - both Xbox One and backwards compatible Xbox 360 titles.

Last but not least, Destiny is very much worth looking into now with the Taken King expansion. Most of the story content can be completed solo, with the endgame strikes and raids requiring Xbox Live (which is worthwhile for the free games, in any case).

If you take advantage of the TV features, pick up the Xbox Media Remote and an IR blaster cable if you're not interested in getting the Kinect. This allows you to control your TV's volume, your set top box, and your audio receiver if you have one. The Kinect isn't really used on the Xbox much anymore, although it does allow for handy voice commands.

there are two ways to do blu ray playback on pc as far as i know. the legit and straightforward one using a software like powerdvd (about 50$), or simply extract the actual video from the disc the same way pirates do (i don't think it's morally problematic if you're doing it to blu rays you bought yourself), but you'll see that there are tons of other free workarounds if you google "how to play blu ray on pc" . both power dvd and players that will work with extracted video files (mpc-hc, for example) will be able to do that DTS/Dolby to multichannel pcm.
as for remote, you'll simply need an IR receiver if you don't want to use the phone, and then program some [freeware software that works with IR receivers] (https://sourceforge.net/projects/winlirc/) to link the IR signals of the existing remote of your choice with specific actions in OS or particular programs.
so add another 70$ to my estimate above regarding the pc parts. so that's about 720$, but if you're willing to go second hand i'm pretty sure you can cut another 30% off that as well.

I personally use two of the single device models and they work great. Can be powered by the device itself if it has a usb port. Best part you don't have to buy a special remote. It uses the existing remote you have.

For a single device:
http://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Extender-Receiver-Emitter-Repeater/dp/B00AMTRR5K/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416856752&sr=8-1&keywords=Infrared+Extender+Receiver+Emitter+Repeater

For multiple devices:
http://www.amazon.com/Generic-Infrared-Extender-Receiver-Emitters/dp/B00OT8TZLO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1416856752&sr=8-5&keywords=Infrared+Extender+Receiver+Emitter+Repeater

Thanks to the wife we currently hide all of our electronics in an old dresser she re-did. I cut holes in the back for air flow and it works like a champ.

You can get an IR Repeater, not RF but if you have room for the IR blaster between the speaker and the TV it should work. Another option if you want to spend a bit more, Logitech Harmony remotes are pretty awesome. They do have an RF one but again it's using an IR blaster from its receiver to the TV's IR sensor.

Making a simulated mouse trigger is very easy, get an arduino Leonardo which can be trivially programmed to emulate a USB mouse with a couple lines of code.

I am not sure what kind of IR trigger you want to implement - do you already have an IR transmitter he can trigger somehow? If that’s the case you can add an IR receiver which can receive standard IR signals from things like remote controls.

Do you need to sense something like muscular movement in his face? You might be able to hook up something like attach a small magnet with tape to his eyebrow and then position a [https://www.amazon.com/IDUINO-Arduino-Compatible-Effect-Magnetic/dp/B019GU8UY2](Hall effect sensor) nearby so he can flex an eyebrow to change the hall effect sensor reading. The hall sensor will be connected to an analog input on the arduino.

The code will look something like this:

int magnetThreshold = 300; // this value will need to be determined experimentally

void setup(){
//initiate the Mouse library
Mouse.begin();
}

void loop(){
//if the magnetic sensor is triggered send a Left mouse click
if (analogRead(1)) > magnetThreshold){
Mouse.click();
delay(1000); // wait a full second
// make sure magnet is no longer triggered
while (analogRead(1)) > magnetThreshold) {
delay(250);
}
}

There are also other kind of sensors you can use like color sensors, pressure sensors (blowing into a tube) and even tongue switches.

Your best bet for quality and latency will be a balun or KVM device with transmitter and receiver; linked is just an example, I use Crestron and Extron stuff with great success, but it can be expensive. You will have to run ethernet cable and possibly terminate yourself.

There are wireless HDMI products out there, but I have not used them. I install AV systems; if you end up getting the wireless, will you PM me with the results?

As for the sound, with either option, HDMI carries audio along with the video. Your TV probably has an analog audio output; either a 3.5mm jack or white and red stereo RCA jacks--6 foot cables linked respectively. It will only be stereo, but it is the easiest route to take, IMO.

you have to get a receiver, and having all the wiring installed into a media closet is a big project someone took care of for you. All you need is speakers and a receiver and an IR Repeater. To minimize remotes, you can get a harmony all in one, the 700 is great. And besides that you just need to get an IR Repeater with a remote eye for the front of the TV, I have this one and it's great:
http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-IR-Repeater-extender/dp/B009ZGK6QS?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

Parts List

Old telephone ringer box

RaspberryPi

Nixie tube vfdclock from ebay
or from these guys

Powered USB hub

Amazon USB speakers

PIR sensor (to turn on nixie tubes at night)

IR receiver/sender

GPIO buttons (they are pretty cheap, next time I'd use these. Thanks /u/John_Barlycorn for the link/idea!

old sony ps2 remote - I chose this remote because they are cheap, built solid and are in brand new shape (no one used them as a remote) and have easy LIRC support

USB mic


Edit:
forgot the pics!

Edit2: Linked everything

There are products, but they are not cheap.

A 1080p signal, even at 30 fps is a very high bandwidth. Luckily you only have a short distance to cover, so you probably won't have issues with signal strength, but its a lot more expensive than buying an HDMI cable.

60 GHz wireless HDMI transmitter 1080p 60 Hz + audio: $175

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0077LKEKQ?tag=thewire06-20&linkCode=as2&creative=374929&camp=211189

Various other tech:

http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32

http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_2

http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/the-best-wireless-hdmi-video-transmitter/

There are probably better and cheaper products than these, but I haven't researched them much so I couldn't say.

You can use something a lot cheaper, like Chromcast for example, although I believe it uses a compressed signal so it will have worse latency and image quality, and it maxes out at 720p.

A quick note now that I'm not on my phone:

Some of the sites will say it only supports 6 devices, but it got an upgrade to 8 recently. All you have to do is plug it into the My Harmony website and it will unlock to 8 devices automatically.

It also supports the PS3 bluetooth adapter, which is available on Amazon right now for $25. http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-PlayStation-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B00267S7XW/

I know you said you only need 4 devices, but I figured I'd throw that out there for future growth.

2 things Steam should do.

1. Invest into creating "HDMI + USB Wireless transmitter." I don't think that exists... but HDMI Wireless Transmitters exist... Something like that while incorporating USB devices. So I can just hit a keybind or something on my computer and send my computer to the living room. (EDIT Found something that could work. Actiontex My Wireless TV. The Steam page on Big Screen Mode, mentions WHDI devices as an option, but says they are still rough. Steam links to this page listing out different WHDI devices if anybody is interested. WHDI devices)
   
   
2. Source games like L4D2 and Portal 2 have Local-Coop hidden in their config files. To enable it you need to manually edit the config file for the 2nd controller, and type in some console commands to enable it all. Steam, needs to incorportate local coop into their PC games. If you're going to be using the living room TV, other people aren't going to want to watch when they could potentially be playing too.

I dunno.

There's several screens out there with HDBase-T already, and it's more and more becoming a feature on "business" panels, since it makes deployment of digital signage worlds easier.

If that trend continues it'll probably make its way into "pro-sumer" and consumer goods simply as a matter of scale-of-production. Just as now we're starting to see 10Gb NICs aimed at the more tech-savy home market with ASUS' new $100 card.

Either way, for me it was an easy decision. Even for now using $100ish baluns I'm happy with what I've got. =)

I will say you are correct about the remote but I have two TV's a XBR-55X700D and a XBR-55X850D. I do have issues from time to time but have removed most of the overall junk in the menu. the weird thing is the 850 updated a while back and the Menu is just like the 700 (vertically and on the right side) as before it was a modern UI look and Horizontal across the bottom. I liked the way the 850 was before the update. Anyway the point I wanted to make was the Remote IR sucks and I finally found a solution. I purchased 2 of these. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AMTRR5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

all has been great after that as far as the remote. The TV UI from time to time has issues but nothing I can't work around. I refuse to Factory default when there is an issue because I do not want to have to re install all the apps and sign in again.

• I've been perfectly happy with my refurbished Harmony 300
  
  
• You can still get the discontinued Harmony Bluetooth Adapter for PS3 on Amazon

Great questions!

• Wifi change hasn't been noticeable. I'm sure its went down some, but we had great signal to start with. I was a bit worried about that. If you look in the pictures, you can see I ran a CAT5 into the attic before walling over the hole (you can see it hanging down starting at image 7). The plan was to run the wire into another room and put in a second wifi router if the signal was too bad.
  
• As far for the IR remote controls, we got pretty lucky on that too. Two weeks before we started the project, comcast bumped us up to a X1 cable box. I found out that the X1 remote uses Bluetooth over IR to control the box. As for DVD player, we use a PS3 - which again is Bluetooth. The plan before comcast got us a newer box was to get an IR repeater and have the receiver attached to the TV.

well it's only $47 right now for the adapter, and I picked one up for cheaper than that a while ago

http://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-Adapter-PlayStation-3/dp/B00267S7XW

Still pretty expensive IMO, but I really, really love the convenience of only needing one remote for everything.

The emitter is a tiny IR/visible light emitter that would come from a central unit that would relay the signal from a remote, through a door that the remote normally can't get through (closed wood door), via either a radio frequency universal remote, or an IR "repeater kit" with a target to aim at on the outside of the door that would mirror the signal to the other devices inside. Great for inconspicuous home theater installs. The cover would prevent the signal to going to similar units (if that's needed), or typically, to cover up the red flash it would give off when it was sending out a signal, as well as hold it in place (the sticky stuff on them wouldn't hold long when they got warm).

​

Edit: Here is a super cheap kit: https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Extender-Repeater-BAFX3233/dp/B009ZGK6QS

Depending on the setup, this could help with the control issues. Use one of these for each TV, with the emitter over the TV's IR receiver and put the extender's receiver behind the bar where no one can see it. Amazon also has some with two emitters for cases where the TV has a cable box under it.

If you have direcTV, I remember some of those boxes use an RF signal, so you can just cover up the IR receiver and still use the remote normally.

To catch people, the best option is look at security footage like others have said. TV-B-Gone style devices will show up on camera easily.

Thanks for the comment. Trying to not sound dumb here. Is that what I'm looking for?

https://www.amazon.com/TNP-Emitter-Extender-Extension-Cable/dp/B019Z5PDB6/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1478791792&sr=1-4&keywords=ir+blaster

The idea is to have the IR blasters hooked into the cable boxes, then the harmony hub can connect to the boxes throughout the house, even if it doesn't have a line of sight, right? Then I should be able to control them through the echo --> harmony skill.

You are on the right track. You might be able to find HDMI adapters that will use a single cable, but if you can't these ones from Monoprice would work. They use 2 cables though, since HDMI has more than 8 wires usually.

You seem to have a nicely made setup, I'm sure you will figure it out!

Edit : You have Cat6, therefore you can use these ones from Amazon. They will use a single cable by using a higher frequency (that's why they need Cat6 or higher).

A lot of people are going to recommend the Harmony Home line of remotes (the ones that use the RF hub) with good reason. Everything else you find will have FAR, FAR worse support, community, documentation, etc.

If you're not going Harmony, you're rolling your own and doing something hacky, which is what I do. The main reason is because my media system is based on a Media Center PC which already has a dedicated RF remote.

Another reason is cost, the entry level price for Harmony Home is $99. Wired and wireless RF extenders are considerably cheaper, $30 or so.

I had really bad luck with multiple wireless/RF based IR extenders, so I eventually went with a wired extender: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001BLTDZA/

The IR blaster cables run back into the cabinet and the receiver box is stuck to the edge of the TV. I can use all the IR remotes that come with the gear, or a universal IR remote.

The universal IR remote I current use is my smartphone, an HTC One M7 which has an IR port.

I'd like to have the OP weigh in on this, but IR is pretty "bouncy". Pointing the remote at the door probably gives the remote line of sight to the cable box.

Alternatively, here's a simple $8 solution: http://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Extender-Receiver-Emitter-Repeater/dp/B00AMTRR5K/ref=sr_1_1/187-0235108-9396615?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1416934406&sr=1-1&keywords=wireless+ir+repeater

> Nah, I have split system 220V. I need to research more.

A few ideas

• temp sensor, if room is normally hot but gets cool AC must be on
  
  
• tilt sensor, I wonder if you could put a tilt sensor on the louver of the split system. Not sure if they are strong enough to push the weight of the sensors. They are made for garage door.
  
  
• door strip sensors, they are ultra thin and could work. Again on the louvers so you can tell if they are Open and running or closed and not running https://www.thesmartesthouse.com/collections/door-window-sensors/products/sensative-z-wave-plus-strips-invisible-door-window-sensor
  
  EDIT: I forgot to mention then you can use a ZXT-120 to control the split system. I use them on my Mitsubishi split and they work fine. I have 6 of them. https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Z-Wave-ZXT-120-Extender-Conditioners/dp/B00Q6SXTPS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1501630141&sr=8-1&keywords=zxt-120

A few years ago i used these from StarTech Ran them to a PC located in the server room.

Worked well for what we wanted. It displayed powerpoints like a champ and even video content was decent. Never had to deal with sounds o i'm not sure how that plays out.

You need something that extends the video signal of whatever type of connection the monitor screen uses. Not USB.

Might be HDMI, might be VGA, might be something else, depending on how old the system is.

Depending on the distance, it might be able just to use a direct cable of the appropriate type, or you might need something that will boost the signal.

If its VGA, something like this would work:

https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Video-Extender-over-ST121/dp/B000050ZTF

If its HDMI, something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/H-COME-Extender-Ethernet-Transmitter-Receiver/dp/B076KD5LJ1/

You haven't specified what kind of cabling or resolution you're looking for. HDMI cabling tends to be unreliable at distances of 50'-75', so I wouldn't recommend going that route. VGA will handle that distance without any problem, but you won't get full HD with VGA--you'd top out at just under 720p resolution.

I would opt for the CAT5 adapters myself if a projector is a 100% unfeasible solution. Although I do have a wireless HDMI box that works out fine for me at home I could recommend. Might not be feasible in a live setting due to interference, blocked signals and whatnot though.

That's one way - it's what I do. The other way is to put the Harmony Hub in a media cabinet and run an IR emitter/extender cable (that plugs into the Harmony hub) to a position where it can see all the components that need to be controlled. Here are reviews for an IR extender cable being used with the Harmony Hub.

So here's the thing, the box that Comcast gives you is probably just a digital tuner, and so it can only decompress one (maybe two) videos at a time. I put this device at the place where the cable comes into my house. I then have to control it with an RF remote control. I picked up this thing that turns the remote into an RF remote for around $20:

http://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-Remote-Control-Extender/dp/B000C1Z0HA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1290966267&sr=8-1

You may want to watch the prices. The downside to this is that every TV in the house shares the same signal, so you can't watch two things at once. This is ok for me, but if you live with several people, it may not be ideal. Also, I don't have any HDTVs, so the "cable out" from this box is fine for me. Obviously, this won't work if you want to use some other kind of cabling between the box and your TV (unless you have it running though your house - I suppose it wouldn't be too tough to do that).

So, I don't pay for a box for every TV - just one. It also has the added benefit that my DVR'd shows are accessible from any TV.

I already had a Logitech Harmony, so I bought one of these and it works like a charm.

In my room I have this setup; my PC is connected to an A/V Receiver that goes to TV out, a usb infrared mce sensor (not this one), a logitech harmony 650 universal remote and a kit of philliphs hue lights for software I use eventghost and ScreenBloom to give a touch of ambiance to the room, with all things set up I just press one button on the harmony remote and it turns on the A/V receiver, tv, run the ScreenBloom app to fade the lights and opens steam in big picture, I also have some shortcuts for the SC Chord button to control the lights while gaming.

although I don't know if it would work if you stream your PC to TV with Steamlink or the like, since my setup is for a PC that is directly attached to and in proximity of your TV.

Are you talking about something like this?

So if I understand correctly I can plug this in the adjacent room and it well help me control the receiver with the Xfinity remote from the other room?

There are IR repeater kits

So up by your TV is a small IR sensor that would capture in the IR from your remote, then a length of cat5/6 would run back to the IR repeater box, and re-send out the IR commands for the rest of your equipment in the rack.

There are other remotes, like the Logitech Harmony hub that does both IR and RF. The hub can control RF systems like FireTV, Roku and other systems that are RF only that don't have any form of IR.

I use a Harmony remote and it works well, except for the line of sight issue you mentioned. I've been thinking of buying one of these, anyone try something like this?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AMTRR5K/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2R8FZH6T8Y8FT

I use the PDP Media Remote and set it up to control the stereo and cable box that are attached to the xboxone. Just had to connect the 1/8 port on the back to a IR blaster (this is not the exact one I use but similar) inside the closet where the equipment is. Works great for xbox control, one guide, changing channels, and volume.

Those are great, I also recommend them.
Edit: also think about remote control ir extenders - http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009ZGK6QS/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1454267191&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=ir+extender+for+cable+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51ks35m2ipL&ref=plSrch

Yeah, the Xbox ir sensor is garbage, it's not the remote. Get one of these and it'll work great BAFX Products IR Remote Control Extender/IR Repeater Kit / BAFX3233 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZGK6QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_OdN5CbFFVB27S

Are you sure about that? I've generally heard that avoiding wireless alternatives is the best way to go in almost every situation.

It's marked up slightly on Amazon, but free Prime shipping vs Monoprice priced shipping makes it nearly a wash - about a dollar or two difference, which is worth it for the speedier delivery that Prime offers.

Also, comparing Monoprice to Monoprice, their wireless IR option is both more expensive and less well-reviewed than the IR through HDMI option. Even the best-reviewed one on Amazon is more expensive than either Monoprice item and has the disadvantage of needing to change the batteries every once in a while, unlike the IR-through-HDMI option which supposedly can run through the power transferred in the cable.

I'm not saying that you're wrong, just that I'm not convinced either way. If this solution does work, it's the most convenient option that I have, but I'm just not sure how reliable it, or even the wireless method, truly is. Have you used the wireless method?

Thanks, I think this was kind of my plan. I'm not too worried about heat, the space is about 5 feet back and the width of the stairs, plenty of room for the heat to rise too. I might put a small exhaust fan in there if necessary.

Should I be concerned about dust you think?

Looks like the speaker wiring might just be coming through the wall, then going around the room just under the floor molding. It's lots of wire, but if I only have to do it once that should be okay I think.

This should work? http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001BLTDZA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3KWDRRCKDS7P0&coliid=I1JHZ4FWLTHHHL

What does it do, just take whatever input IR signal and then repeat it to all the IR devices it's connected to?

I'll just leave this here :) http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32

Yay wireless technologies :)

I got this BAFX one on Amazon. http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Repeater-control-extender/dp/B009ZGK6QS At first I thought it sucked but after adding some tape over a few of the sensors, it worked perfectly.

Thanks guy. So I buy an IR blaster, like one of these? https://www.amazon.com/MAXZONE-Infrared-Extension-Transmitter-Compatible/dp/B06XV9V4RM/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=xbox+one+ir+blaster&qid=1562180021&s=gateway&sr=8-2

​

https://www.amazon.com/Xbox-Extender-Blaster-Cable-Head-WeaKnees/dp/B01J4JV434/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=xbox+one+ir+blaster&qid=1562180029&s=gateway&sr=8-5

​

And this will plug into the xbox itself? Sorry, just totally unfamiliar with how these sensors work with the xbox.

Here's the setup I would go with:

TV: Panasonic TCP55ST30

Blu-Ray Player: Panasonic DMP-BDT110 or Sony PS3. I've found the PS3 to be really nice because it has apps for NetFlix and a web browser for Pandora and you can stream music or video to it from any computer on the network.

AVR: Onkyo TX-NR609

Speakers: Energy 5.1 Take Classic - Not positive about that, I would do a bit more research, but for the sake of commenting, I'm picking these right now.

Remote: Logitech HarmonyOne is great. If you go with the PS3, the Adapter for PS3 is a must have, IMHO.

For the sake of saving money on wasted energy, I recommend plugging all of that into a Green Power Unit and setting the set as the master device.

You should be able to get all of this stuff for $2000 - $2500 by my estimation. Depending on the budget you may want to pay a professional a couple hundred bucks to calibrate your set once it's setup and broken in. Also, don't forget HDMI cables and speaker cable.

it needs to be powered.

you can buy something like this:

http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-IR-Repeater-extender/dp/B009ZGK6QS/

and replace the emitter end with a straight 3.5mm cable like this:

http://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-MU3MMS-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio/dp/B004G3UK5C/

Thanks everyone for your help. I decided to order this and will post back with my results!

I just bought this and installed it today and it works perfectly over Cat5e. Its replacing a cheap monoprice one that used 2x cables and failed after 4yrs.

This is the cheapest HDBaseT unit that I could find, is only powered at one end (user's choice) and has bidirectional IR hardware included. I'm very happy with it.

The word you're looking for is "balun". While you can find 4K capable baluns, to the best of my knowledge none of them are passive.

Example of a balun that's exactly what you're asking for, except not passive: https://smile.amazon.com/SDS-Extender-HDBaseT-Supports-Bi-directional/dp/B0107W8UP2/

Knowing the word "balun" will get you much better search results than just putting in the cable specs (this is a search I've been down before).

What you might consider is a PoE (Power over Ethernet) balun kit. This one is pricey... but it supports 4K, and you only have to plug one side of it in (either the transmitter or the receiver) to power, and it'll power the other device over the same cat6 cable that the video signal is transmitted over. So you only need to run the single cable, and whichever end has trouble supplying power won't need it. https://smile.amazon.com/AV-Access-Extender-Uncompressed-Supports/dp/B01GYL54JK/

The remote uses something like this to convert the RF signal into IR that the box will understand. The upside is that you no longer need line-of-sight to control the box, but on the other hand it's more expensive.

Are you not able to move the cable box into the room?

But... that's exactly what it is. I have this and it works great. It "hears" the em "noise" your remote makes when you push a button and then amplifies it. The receiver then interprets it and converts it to an IR signal and transmits it through a wire out of a little IR emitter that adheres to the receiver on the device.

Edit: I found my old Amazon order (7 years ago). Here is the product page:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000C1Z0HA

Inteset Internal IR Receiver(link to amazon) is what I use, pretty simple install. Works good. Not sure if you have to buy their remote or not.

Or the ability to use an actual remote control directly with the PS4. For example, I'm using this remote for all of my devices, and it directly controls my PS3 via Bluetooth. Harmony also has a PS3 adapter. But nothing for PS4. This is what keeps me from using my PS4 for BluRay, Netflix, Amazon streaming, etc. I still use the PS3 for all of that just so I can use a normal remote instead of a game controller plus remote.

I personally love logitech harmony remotes, as long as you are willing to pay a bit to get it setup. I've used a Harmony ONE (the cheaper ones do essentially the same thing) since 08 or so, and it still works well. Couple that with an ir usb dongle for the pc and a ps3 adapter and it will be adaptable for many years of service

I just got a Roku, and I setup "roksbox" for it to access stored files on my computer. Organization doesn't look like it will be easy, but it was a quick way to get access to that media.

IR repeater... something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Neoteck-Repeater-Infrared-Amplifier-Satellite/dp/B01HPXO11S

no spying going on here :)

It's far more than audio-only - it also carries power and can send/receive data. Examples of what 3.5mm jacks can be used for:

• Reading credit cards
  
  
• Charging and sending data to/from MP3 players
  
  
• Transmitting IR signals
  
  
• Sending CV/gate signals
  
  
• Plugging in computer keyboards
  
  
• Sending shutter release signals to cameras from a distance
  
  
• Powering video game consoles
  
  And surely tons of other things.

Close, $180: http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32 They work pretty well, using one to mirror our living room tv to our kitchen at the moment.

I haven't tried using something like this but they appear to support IR and 1080p HDMI over a single Cat6 up to around 200 feet.

If you wanted to go up to 4K it gets a lot more expensive and you need 2x Cat6 cables.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Q6SXTPS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_WhbECbGE7DANY

Check out this guy. I use 8 of them in my barndominium to control the head units of my mini-split system in each room. Works great. Takes a little time to figure out how to program them for your specific units but once it's up and running, everything works well.

I bought this and it works perfectly for what I wanted.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AMTRR5K/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You could also do what I did. I bought the little peel and stick IR blasters if you don't have line of site to all of your IR equipment.

Important: If you do this, you will need to adapt the 2.5mm jack on the back of the Harmony Hub to 3.5mm like most IR blasters use. So buy one (or two) of this 2.5mm to 3.5mm Mono Adapter.

Using Ethernet for the monitors was the plan from the very beginning. Before I put the sheetrock on the walls I had placed CAT6 jacks beside the power outlets for each monitor. Here's a before picture.

All of the CAT6 ends for the entire basement end in a small closet I made to hide some plumbing. I put up a little shelf and put all the components in there. Here's another pic.

At the time I wasn't sure if I was just going to plug the monitors in directly to the network for Smart TV access, or if I was going to try and carry video over Ethernet. I ended up going the video route and used these components:

Amazon: Monoprice 105704 4 x 4 True Matrix HDMI Switch/Splitter with Remote Control

Amazon: AGPtek LKV372A 60m/190ft 1080P HD HDMI Network Extender Over Single Cat6/6a/7 Ethernet Cable with IR Remote Control

As you can see in the closet picture, I have 4x of the HDMI network extenders, each labeled 1-4. CAT6 goes in one end and HDMI the other end. All the HDMI cables are 3' I also got from Amazon.

The HDMI cables all go into the 4x4 Switch Splitter. What's cool about that guy is I can have 4 sources, and control what source goes to what monitor. Right now I only have 2 sources, an Amazon Fire Stick and a Raspberry Pi. The switch lets me display the sources on any monitor I want, so I can have 2 watching the game or a movie, and the other 2 with the blind clock, or 3 watching the game and 1 with the blind clock, etc etc.

Behind each monitor there is a matching HDMI extender. They look just like the ones in the closet. So out of the CAT6 jack and into the extender with a 3' CAT6E cable, out of the extender HDMI with a 3' cable and into the monitor. The extender requires power so it uses the 2nd outlet behind the monitor.

That's all there is to it. I'll admit it was a bit finicky at first getting all the extenders to sync and act right. I believe this is because I'm cheap and was trying to get out as cheap as possible. I tried other extenders that were cheaper first and they either didn't work at all, or were awful quality. When I got these they mostly worked right out of the box, but I had to redo some of my punches at the jacks themselves which was weird because my jack tester said they were perfect but the extenders weren't happy with them at all.

I bought this for exactly the same reason, and it works great: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZGK6QS

Thanks for the reply. Do you know if something like this has ever been tested to see if an Ethernet cable can be used to extend the HDMI cable also? Unfortunately putting my computer near the Rift will be impossible.

There serveral products which will "cast" an HDMI output from one place to another. There are both wired and wireless options.

Our household uses an Actiontec My Wireless and it works well for us. It also has an IR blaster built in so you can have a remote that lives in the spare room yet changes channels on the cable box in the other room. There is about a quarter second delay between button presses which is noticeable, but still very usable. While it has a moderate up-front cost. There is zero reoccurring costs, which is nice compared to a cable box. Whether this one will for you depends on several things.

What is the physical distance between the cable box you want duplicated and the spare bedroom?

Anyone have any luck getting an IR extender to work with this? I have the Next Generation Remote Control Extender which works great with every remote I have but doesn't work at all with the Xbox One and the media remote

I'm using this IR repeater and this universal remote. As far as home theater control - mine is bare bones basic. A heavy majority of people who are into this stuff prefer a harmony remote and/or a harmony hub to control their devices. I had a Harmony remote years ago, but out of the blue it quit on me, so I went for something cheaper.

Yup. OP, you can get something like this and mount it wherever you want. You could probably power it off the Roku 3's usb port as well.

Amazon: Aketek IR Hidden Infrared Remote Extender Receiver Emitter Repeater System

No it doesn't exist as a cable but it does as a powered adapter to use over Cat5 or Cat6 cable. It's not Ethernet but it may be what your client actually needed. You should have told him that.

• https://www.amazon.com/StarTech-com-Video-Extender-over-ST121/dp/B000050ZTF
  
• https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SVX57UQ/ref=psdc_15782091_t1_B000050ZTF
  
  You should have also told him about streaming boxes like a chromecast or one of the various other streaming solutions out there.

No you can use IR extensions like this I haven't used it myself but here's the Xbox support page about it. https://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/live-tv/use-external-ir-with-xbox-one

Sounds interesting. I was also able to find this: https://www.amazon.com/Inteset-External-Infrared-Center-Receiver/dp/B00J5NRWFO which multiple people in the comments say works the EventGhost MCE Remote Plugin.

The other thing to remember is that by default Kodi disallows control from other programs on the local machine or over the network so you will have to allow external program control if you haven't already.

Here's an IR emitter that reviews say work on Xbox One.

You plug the jack into the back of the Xbox, then stick the ends in front of the IR receivers on your DirectTV box (and TV and soundbar, if you want).

If you really want it all, you can then buy the Xbox One Media Remote and use that to change channels and navigate everything. Then you don't need to use the Xbox controller to change channels, and it's easier for a non-gamer to figure out what to do.

I think when I tried this, I had no luck getting it to work with the logitech PS3 adapter. Since I use my PS3 as my netflix and bluray player, I didn't get much use out of this app.

Is this app able to be used with PS3 IR adapter?

H/K actually sells their own IR extender system... I’m not sure if they still make it, but it was kind of expensive ($70 if I remember correctly)

I have personally used this cheap solution in the past, and it worked flawlessly when placed correctly:

IR EXTENDER

Edit: I haven’t owned H/K equipment in a few years, so you may want to double check that the connector is compatible, but this worked with my old H/K AVR

oof they're about $100 cdn. Do you think something like this one would be laggy: https://www.amazon.ca/Neoteck-Repeater-Infrared-Amplifier-Satellite/dp/B01HPXO11S/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1536628482&sr=1-4&keywords=ir+blaster

You could use a single PC and an HDMI splitter, while this isn't practical from a wiring perspective... it is possible. You can get a nice GPU and an HDMI Splitter such as the one listed at the bottom of my post. If distance is far... you can get a HDMI over Ethernet converter for further distance.

You have the option of using Digital Signage too.

https://www.amazon.com/LKV372A-Network-Extender-Ethernet-Control/dp/B00Z9OW6DQ/ref=sr_1_5?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1468970990&sr=1-5&keywords=HDMI+over+ethernet

https://www.amazon.com/HD-108-Powered-Splitter-Support-Outputs/dp/B00BTC5S6O

Definitely, here's the first random one I found:

https://www.amazon.com/Inteset-External-Infrared-Center-Receiver/dp/B00J5NRWFO

There are lots though, look around and find something that fits your use case.

Yes
zwave ac ir blaster

you're looking for this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00VH02IZ2/

and a logitech harmony remote with kodi set to launch at startup

• Receiver recommendation for your budget: http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrx3000/denon-avr-x3000-7.2-4k-ultra-hd-networking-receiver-w/airplay/1.html If you don't need the all the extra features, the X2000 will have what you're looking for at $150 less: http://www.accessories4less.com/make-a-store/item/denavrx2000/denon-avr-x2000-7.1-ch-4k-ultra-hd-networking-receiver-airplay/1.html#!specifications
  
  
• IR repeater, this should work: http://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-Remote-Control-Extender/dp/B000C1Z0HA
  
  
• For wall plates at a fair price, look into monoprice: http://www.monoprice.com/Category?c_id=109&cp_id=10425
  
  

Put them in a closet or shelf and get an IR blaster kit. You can put the small IR receiver on the front of the TV and wire the rest up to a small box.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-TM-Repeater-extender/dp/B009ZGK6QS/ref=lp_11039361_1_2?s=audio-video-accessories&ie=UTF8&qid=1409069673&sr=1-2

Get a signal extender like this. Then you just have to make sure the extender is in sight range of your devices - but that can be inside the cabinet.

The PDP adapter isn't the first such device. Logitech once made a Sony-licensed IR adapter for the PS3 that worked the same way the PDP gizmo does for the PS4. I had one when I owned a PS3, and it worked amazingly well.
Edit: Here's what it looked like.

IR control is the way to go.

Look at http://www.ibroadlink.com/rm/ or https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Z-Wave-ZXT-120-Extender-Conditioners/dp/B00Q6SXTPS

Many of these more advanced HVAC systems use proprietary controls, so it won't work with any thermostat from another brand.

How about something like this

http://www.amazon.com/Aerb-Multifunction-Wireless-Keyboard-Infrared/dp/B00K768DHY/ref=pd_sim_e_7?ie=UTF8&refRID=0S7CQKVXS3KBG8QYD2Z8

This would let you control your PC as well as the TV in a single control.

Also with IR blasters, you can allways hide the bulky box and use IR externders to control the TV. It would be a small little cable that would do it.
http://www.amazon.com/Infrared-Extender-Receiver-Emitter-Repeater/dp/B00AMTRR5K/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1426468760&sr=8-8&keywords=Ir+extender+cable

I don't know if this will work with TV, This is more for talking to IR printers and Modems. But you maybe able to hack something together to control a TV with this.
http://www.amazon.com/IrDA-USB-2-0-Adapter-Windows/dp/B004GED7SI/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Also some UPS have a power saving features that will cut power to the monitor (Or TV in this case) when the computer is shutdown/sleeping. If you can get your TV to auto turn on when it has power that would work.

This thing works well enough. I have it and am watching TV on it right now. Not cheap though...

http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32

If your AC has a remote control you can use a z wave IR device to manage the AC. Look up:

https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Z-Wave-ZXT-120-Extender-Conditioners/dp/B00Q6SXTPS

There are other devices with similar capability as well.

I use one of these zwave IR blasters designed for a/c units.
https://www.amazon.com/Remotec-Z-Wave-ZXT-120-Extender-Conditioners/dp/B00Q6SXTPS

A/C units typically get sent multiple codes at once. Very few learning remotes seem to be able to work. I use this with my Split Duct unit and it works reasonably well.

makes sense. As an alternative, this worked well for me back when I had a cable box and it was in my media closet. You replace one of the remote's batteries with the transmitter battery and it just works.

This one works well.

BAFX Products IR Remote Control Extender/IR Repeater Kit/BAFX3233

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZGK6QS/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_5uGwENiBndcR4

Monoprice one not so good

These would allow you to send HDMI and IR over a single cat5e/6

don't run them through your switch though, just directly into your patch panel

https://www.amazon.com/LKV372A-Network-Extender-Ethernet-Control/dp/B00Z9OW6DQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1468067958&sr=8-3&keywords=hdmi+over+cat

These work just fine and can do a one to several broadcast.

http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410292616&sr=8-1&keywords=MWTV200R

We use them in many of our conference rooms on both projectors and TVs.

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00Z9OW6DQ

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B003YKX6S6

This is what I plan to use, after more research I decided to go with UTP cat6 instead of cat7.

edit: the cable needs to bend alot so I went with this first and if this doesnt work then I will try a solid core cable.

For all those having trouble with the kinect ir you can check this out. http://support.xbox.com/en-US/xbox-one/live-tv/use-external-ir-with-xbox-one They are pretty cheap too, http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002JS0CVI/

Why not use Cat5e or Cat6a and an HDMI Balun instead? That way you won't have to replace the cable every time someone gets an itch to change the HDMI standards?

https://www.amazon.com/MAXZONE-Infrared-Extension-Transmitter-Compatible/dp/B06XV9V4RM cheaper than a Kinect, turns your TV/Stereo on and off

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XV9V4RM

this is cool, but what was your build cost? I only ask because you can buy one new for $8.40 from Amazon.

You need an IR repeater- IR Hidden Infrared Remote Extender Receiver Emitter Repeater System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AMTRR5K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_U43txbPCAN2B6

The Xbox can't change the channels without the Kinect unless you use an IR extension cable.
Then you can't use voice to change the channels but should be able to use the controller.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tj6hnjhIM_Y

I was looking at these.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07DJ56875/?coliid=I3IPA4I8OD86ZS&colid=35YLRVVX7N3UN&psc=0&ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it

Since it handles usb you could use a usb->audio dongle. HDMI will also carry audio.

TV IR remote extender ?

http://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-Remote-Control-Extender/dp/B000C1Z0HA

For the PS3 you might need either the hub or an additional device. I had to get one for the PS4. https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-Harmony-PlayStation-Discontinued-Manufacturer/dp/B00267S7XW

You need an IR extender/repeater

BAFX Products IR Remote Control Extender/IR Repeater Kit / BAFX3233 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZGK6QS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fC10CbP9YBW8S

Worked for me with a plasma

BAFX Products (R) - IR Repeater - Remote control extender Kit - Operate 1 to 8 devices! OR more! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZGK6QS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_GqqEub1HY555S

This
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0107W8UP2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oKSlzb13Y8AEA

And this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EV33R8S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_OGXWJEm5l6cLU

Are what you're after.

[This](https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZGK6QS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xpkWub0H04R2A
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009ZGK6QS/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_xpkWub0H04R2A) is what I was looking at and is probably what I'll end up buying.

You could get a HDMI splitter and connect a wireless display kit with it. Example: http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1421026414&sr=8-3&keywords=wireless+HDMI+kit

I used this works good

:)

here and here or look up "tv control remote repeater".

Buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002JS0CVI/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_6-IFwbZZAGAZM

Then you can use the media remote or Xbox controller to control everything.

You're looking for an IR repeater. This is the one I use so that I can point my remote at my TV and it relays all the signals to the Xbox back in a media closet.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZGK6QS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009ZGK6QS/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you are concerned with frame rate or higher resolutions get something that is "HDBaseT". I think they may need to be directly connected to each other, so keep that in mind.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0107W8UP2/

I have Actiontec http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_1_0 It's great for watching movies or surfing but the lag it adds just makes games unplayable for me.

IR repeater. You plug it in to a box that receives IR (usually small that you can cleanly hide in the room with the tv, then you run the cables in to a closet where you've hidden your AV equipment and it repeats the signal to those boxes.

I think we should move back to radio for remote now that DSP can filter out unwanted radio signals. Oh wait... this company has just done it just so, and the whole radio transmitter is inside a AAA battery.

Link: http://www.amazon.com/Next-Generation-Remote-Control-Extender/dp/B000C1Z0HA/

Does the wireless have to be a problem?

http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32

http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/the-best-wireless-hdmi-video-transmitter/

You could get this for $180: http://www.amazon.com/Actiontec-Wireless-WiFi-Multi-Room-Video/dp/B005L9ZZ32/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_1_0

Or this for $170: http://www.amazon.com/Nyrius-Transmitter-Streaming-Satellite-NPCS549/dp/B009E6R89C/ref=pd_sxp_grid_pt_0_1

Both of them stream in uncompressed 1080p and they claim to have zero latency. You could search other places to find them cheaper but if you're looking for 1080p, this is what you're gonna have to be looking at. You could also get a 30' HDMI cable though and route it around the edges of the wall on the ground.

EDIT: By the way, if you get an HDMI cable, don't get the more expensive ones, there is really no difference between the expensive ones and the cheap ones.

Sure. The AV Receiver is a Yamaha RX-A1040 which connects to a Chromecast, Xbox One, and Sonos Bridge. I ran all the wires through the attic to two separate zones: Living Room and Outside Patio. I used one of these Sewell Wall Blades to run power from the media closet to the TV so that I could hide all the wires in the living room and have everything in one location. I also have a BAFX IR blaster and a Fan Cooling System mounted on the media closet door.

Finally, the living room speakers are Polk In-Ceiling and In-Wall speakers. As much as I would've liked to splurge on some higher end speakers, I have a kid and would rather ride it out on "sub-par" speakers until he's past his destruction phase.

My biggest advice would be to run any wire/conduit before you move in. I did this after being in the house for a while and it would've gone faster if I didn't have to work around all of our stuff or worry about making a mess.

This is crazy. You have no idea what you want because you have no idea what the fuck you're talking about.

I should let you waste a bunch of time and money on this as a lesson on why you should call a professional... but I'm a jive guy so I won't. Here. https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-IR-Repeater-extender/dp/B009ZGK6QS

> My goal is full control using the remote the TV came with.

That's a stupid fucking goal. Your remote wasn't made or designed to do anything like that.

Hey, somehow I missed this comment 2 months ago.

Do you have any advice regarding screen mapping?

I guess I'm not sure when it would come up, outside of a multiple projector setup. I've been using one of these VGA to Ethernet extenders to get multiple outs, but it's really no different than just sending to one output, as they're all mirrored.

When would the rest of it come up? You mention connection types, resolution conflicts, and transcoding video.