Reddit mentions: The best restaurant appliances & equipment

From all of my observations of shops coming and going...I'd say start with a couple good quality drip makers, like Bunn. Dead simple to use, clean, and makes great coffee since the machine controls the water temp and volume per batch. Get the airpot systems if you feel you can afford them, if you want a "help yourself" style of coffee, but I really find that the plain old glass and steel carafes can really add to the ambiance of the place.

Next, get those commercial brewers plumbed in with a decent water filter. Huge difference in qualilty and convenience for you as the shop owner, since all you have to do is fill the brew basket and hit start; no worries about whether or not the reservoir is full. It will keep your machines cleaner and running better and longer between cleanings as well.

Since you have your awesome setup now, you can look at coffees. I'd just start simple, something a grade or two better than your basic Folgers or what have you. Something single-sourced, organic, fair-trade, etc. Like hamhead said, don't go nuts, but do be creative. And ask, always ask if the customers liked it or not, or what they would like to see you offer. Feedback is crucial.

Now, I know I've probably tl;dr'd you here, but I do have a point. If you're running a bakery, you need to be focused on making the best bakery possible for selling bakery goods--not coffee. This set up should help give you a high-quality product that's easy to sell along with your baked goods, giving you a good ROI and not break your bank in the process; nor should it require a large investment of your time (focus on the bakery stuff, remember?) trying to make fancy coffee. Just like in kung fu, you must master the basics before moving on to the falcon punch stuff. And, IMHO, finding a place where you can get a consistently good basic 'cup of joe' is like finding the Grail. A ceramic Grail filled with heavenly coffee.

I got some pretty good baking swag this year.

First up was a Kopykake. I will be making disgusting amounts of cookies over the next year putting this thing to the test.

A KitchenAid Architect was shocked to see it was the full set as these are stupid expensive.

Possibly my favorite gift for kitchen stuff this year was DrawerDecor which has finally made my drawers a non clusterfuck.

Steel prep table similar to this but not this model. Got it before Christmas but was told it was an early xmas gift.

Wire Shelving similar to this, but again not this model. Its 4' wide and each shelf can take 600. It freed up SO much room for me. I highly recommend more shelving for any of you guys/gals who have the room for it.

18" Magnetic Knife Strip, again more stuff out of shelves, off of counter tops etc.

Glass mixing bowls

Last but certainly not least, I finally got this cookie sheet from chicago metallic. Such a nice piece.


Now I think it is worth noting that I bake for a living, and that most people don't actually want a prep table or a 3' tall projector in their kitchen but damnit I love it! :)

The main theme for this xmas seems to be helping me get my kitchen to the OCD level needed in a professional kitchen. Not sure the missus loves the strict flow of kitchen as much as I do but man, it feels good and looks great.

I use a 48" x 30" stainless steel prep table on casters, like what one might find in a restaurant kitchen or science lab. It was about $130 on Amazon (IIRC). I don't regret the expense one bit. I love it, and I almost wish I had gone with a 5' table rather than the 4'. Whatever you choose, be sure to give yourself plenty of room to set down things like your pizza peels, serving trays, tongs, gloves, etc.

More on why the prep table is awesome: The stainless wipes clean easily and looks nice with the Ooni Pro, which is also stainless. It has a shelf that hovers several inches above the ground and holds a plastic tote full of grilling tools, plus two types of charcoal and two bags of wood. As the table complies with NSF standards, there are many extra shelves and hooks available to customize the storage space, though I haven't availed myself of those yet. Casters allow me to roll the whole setup inside during the winter to prevent rust, but I can just as easily roll it outside to light up the oven anytime I want.

In short, the ease of use and attractive appearance of the stainless prep table option might keep you from ever getting out your bricks and mortar. Enjoy your oven!

Edit: added links in first paragraph.

Thanks. I have greatly enjoyed learning the process at home. Even some of the early disappointments were enjoyable to some degree. I would strongly recommend starting with simple ones like cream cheese and goat cheese to get an idea for the process. Plus they don't require real aging so there is immediate gratification.

My cheese cave is just a tiny little mini-fridge I got for free from a friend. I use one of these to regulate the temp. You simply plug the fridge/freezer into it and based on your settings, it controls the power to the fridge. For humidity, just a glass of water in there is the best I can do.

Alright, That was a quick message off my phone.

Freezer - Sams Club - $199 - I bought at our local SAM's. I just put my kegs in there and use picnic tabs, I am working on setting up a wood collar to add taps.

Power/Temp Control - I bought this off amazon because it was cheeper than locally. There is also a digital version (costs more) I didn't see any reason to go with it.

CO2 tank, regulator, hoses, ETC: bad teacher brewing on South Airport, they also have the temp control. I would recommend a 20LB tank if you can fit it and afford it. 5lbs are nice, they are easy to move but you will get the most "bang for your buck" our of a 20lb when doing refills and the time it will last.

Filling your CO2 tank - Northern Fire and safety is going to be the best. They are reasonable and WAY cheaper than Air Gas.

I hope this gives you a good starting point. I can provide some more advice.

My father did almost the same thing except he was attempting to make a keg fridge out of a stand up freezer and tried drilling holes in the side. Brand new unit that wasn't even plugged in yet was toast. You have all the important parts to make a new one. You should be able to pick up a chest freezer for a reasonable amount of money such as http://www.samsclub.com/sams/ge-chest-freezer-5-cu-ft/124989.ip and then you can buy something like this http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-A19AAT-2C-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0002EAL58 and set the temp to whatever you want This is going to be by far your cheapest solution if you remember to drill your holes in the lid and nowhere else (coolant lines don't run in the lid.) I have the same freezer and I can tell you it will fit 3 of those 5 gal pop kegs that it sounds like you're using. plus space for your CO2 source as long as the bottle isn't too big. Doing this setup might be a bit more energy efficient as well seeing you're using an external control on a better pump that gets cooler faster and has just as good if not better insulating than normal fridge style keggerators...

My time to shine! I have helped build two kegerators. The first one uses a small chest freezer and holds up to four 5-gallon kegs. We use this one for our homebrews at the house, and simply open the lid to use a cheap picnic tap to dispense the beer.

• "A freezer!" You say, "Why not a refrigerator? I don't want to freeze my beer!"
  
  
• A freezer does not have a defrost cycle, so the temperature inside stays constant. This is a plus whenever we want to use the freezer for holding lagers at specific temperatures. The specific temperature is read by a little hanging thermometer kept inside, and is adjusted by a Freezer Temperature Controller
  
  The second kegerator was a bigger undertaking. This one uses a massive chest freezer (capable of holding 4 full-size kegs and a slim keg simultaneously) and the same type of Temperature Regulator. The main difference is that instead of opening the lid to retrieve beer, we have beer lines leading to a tap wall and chalkboard. How does one get the lines out of the airtight appliance? We had heard a ^(cosmically?) funny story of some chump trying to drill through a wall of his freezer; he pierced a coil and ruined the whole thing.. We wanted to avoid something like that. Although there are no coils in the lid of the freezer, we decided on the method that follows:
  
  Remove the lid from the appliance entirely. Make a rectangular frame of 2x4s the exact size of the top of your chest freezer. Use caulk to get a tight seal on your joints. Drill holes for your beer lines through the wood, rather than through the appliance, and put the freezer lid back on top of your wooden frame. The weight of the lid, in combination with the rubber grommet, should keep your fridge operating efficiently. If you have problems with cool air leaking out, try using big velcro strips to hold the lid on tighter. It seems pretty efficient to me, since one only needs to open the unit to replace a keg.
  
  Best of luck! Pictures when I have them
  
  edit: to have multiple kegs at once off the same Co2 tank requires a "splitter" to divert the gas from 1 to any number of kegs
  
  

I put together my own curing chamber after falling into the rabbit hole of this subreddit. In total it cost me about $175.
Materials:
Temp Controller
Humidity Controller This humidity controller is much cheaper than other options I saw, you will have to wire it yourself, but it works great!
Ultrasonic Humidifier, I got one for $35 on Amazon.
Humidity Monitor
I simply browsed Craigslist for a suitable full size fridge, and managed to get one for $40. This is the one I got
Let me know if you have any questions Id be happy to help!

Let me start off with, I love sleeving cards. I can watch tv or a movie and sleeve cards all day every day. I'm crazy so I open all sealed products with latex gloves, then cards go into a KMC perfect fit then I use this https://amzn.com/B00QK5AEBE to seal its soul. Then into an outer sleeve. Valuable cards go in binders and others into those white card boxes. I also throw one of these https://amzn.com/B001UYEBNW into the storage unit, deck box, binder, storage box. Hope this helps ya! =D

You actually can use wash water for greywater systems as long as you are using "safe" products in your laundry and aren't using them to wash diapers or items soiled with blood/feces/etc. There are lots of products you can use that work well with said systems.

This website talks a lot about good options and practices. They even tell you on there not to store water over 24 hours. It almost will immediately start putting off odor and can get fetid very quickly, especially in a warmer climate.

If you just want a quick/easy/simple method, I'd look into a cheap PVC barrel setup like they have on that site. They make small farm tanks that will work if you want to do multiple loads of laundry and have a large garden. You can just run a large PEX hose from the washer drain to a tank. I would go with a bit more "processing" outbound than they recommend though.

You have to genuinely be careful with fats and certain solids if you want to use a pumpless setup like that. A good option to mitigate that and prevent a messy fix would be to install a simple PVC greasetrap similar to this. You might actually legally have to install one to have the thing up to code.

I use my soda stream to make carbonated water, and then pump soda syrup into my glass to make a drink. I can have something different each time if I want. This is the cola syrup I use. I also have cherry and vanilla syrup so I can have a cherry cola or vanilla cola if I want it. Soda stream syrups are gross, especially if you don't care for artificial sweeteners. Monin syrups I order online, but Torani I can buy from Smart and Final for $5 a bottle. You can buy pumps to fit the Torani and Monin syrup bottles, which make dispensing the syrup super easy. I usually use 4-6 pumps of syrup per glass.

If I wanted to have that sink operational, I would buy this table, or one like it. I actually have this exact table in my backyard, and screwed on top of it a butcher block table top for a work bench with a vise. It’s exceptionally sturdy and strong and rot proof. It would make a great base for your sink. You would just need to cut a hole in the stainless top for your drain. And also bolt something like 2 pieces of wood on to the table top, over which the sink would rest, to prevent it from moving about. That thing must weigh at least 100 pounds. Good luck.

A little pricey, but easily one of my favorite brewing purchases. Very sturdy, comes with casters, and it's easy to clean.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007LQH86/ref=oh_aui_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The more I think about it, the more I think that one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/Commercial-Pastry-Countertop-20x20x24-Display/dp/B00C9QYHNO/ref=pd_sbs_328_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00C9QYHNO&pd_rd_r=W4977W5NDJQS3KKGMYQ0&pd_rd_w=Cy5vW&pd_rd_wg=GjZ5L&psc=1&refRID=W4977W5NDJQS3KKGMYQ0

may be my best solution.

Any input on this would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

Design and design considerations:

• Outside Design photo - rooster crowing
  
• Outside Design angle view
  
• Inside reservoir view
  
• Inside close up view
  
• Inside full view
  
  
• I anticipated issues with heat and so I placed my reservoir inside the shed on the concrete floor for a heat sink effect
  
• reservoir holds ~30 gallons of water filled from my well
  
• pump pumps up to ~ 11 feet high in shed (~12-13 feet outside). Pump was rated for 220 GPH at 10 feet, 0 at 13 feet. I figure I'm getting 150-200 GPH at ~11 feet.
  
• I used old hoses, hose repair ends (male and female) with hose clamps to attach, run up and through the shed wall, use a 'Y' splitter and run into the top of each system.
  
• 4" diameter 10' long sewer pipe (cheaper than PVC), elbows and extensions to extend the distance between the elbows. I was concerned about them being too close and over shadowing each other and so there is ~22" gap at the narrow end, and ~28-30" at the far end
  
• target drop was 4" for the 10' run.
  
• at the bottom, I used sewer pipe to PVR converter and joined together with a bottom drain coming out (1 1/2").
  
• this returns through the shed wall with a ~1" drop over 2 feet to re-enter the reservoir at ~2 ' height above concrete
  
• I used these net cups
  
• I'm using Inkbird Pre-Wired Dual Stage Digital Temperature Controller Outlet Thermostat 110V, 1100W Heating and Cooling.
  
  Heating/Cooling:
  
  
• The Inkbird dual stage controller is set to 71F. If the temp goes below that then the heating plug kicks on to active this 800w heater
  
• As seen below in my temp graph, when the temp outside goes high enough, the water temp goes above my target max of 75 F. I need to come up with a cooling solution. Updates to come.
  
• 5/23 update: Decided to get an active cooler Hydrofarm
  Active Aqua Chiller, 1/4 HP - Note in the temp graph below the blunting of the green curve as the red (ambient temp) went high. I have the dual stage temp controller set to kick on the cooling plug at 68, and this starts the second water pump that pumps through the cooler. The cooler is set for 69 currently so when the temp reaches 70, cooling kicks in. I am continuing to fiddle with this setting.
  
  Nutrients:
  
  
• I ordered General Hydroponics Maxigro, Maxibloom, Each 2.2 lbs. - and I started at 1/3 concentration of recommendation of the Maxigro.
  
  Plant photos:
  Plants received dry bare root with no green growth from starkbros.
  
  
• 5/15 2 week old plant - notice the new white growth
  
• 5/23 growth and increase in root mass A lot of the brown is old roots from before the planting, white roots with a bit of browning is visible.
  
  
  Temp graph:
  
  This is with the La Crosse wifi temp probe (https://www.amazon.com/Crosse-Technology-926-25106-Wgb-Wireless-Monitor/dp/B06ZYJ5L5B/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8) so I can check remotely. Red line is ambient temp, green line is water temp.
  
  
  
• 5/15 temp graph
  
• 5/23 temp graph with heater and cooling effect
  
  
  Water changes:
  
  
• 5/20 - pumped out old water, filled and allowed to heat to ~58 degrees before being impatient and starting the pump. Ambient temp was low 60s.
  
  
  

Not OP, but looks like she uses cello bags and a heat sealer like this: Flexzion 8-Inch/200mm Impulse Sealer with Replacement Element Grip and Teflon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011TS3UWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_qC.Dyb5GSFY9J
That's what I use for my cookies :)

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Amazon Smile Link: this sealer


|Country|Link|Charity Links|
|:-----------|:------------|:------------|
|USA|smile.amazon.com|EFF|




To help donate money to charity, please have a look at this thread.

This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting). The thread for feature requests can be found here.

Honestly I think you're better off with a fridge, for the amount of time and money it would take to build an "icebox" like the Son of Fermentation.

You can get external temperature controllers that don't require any wiring at all, like this one.

If money truly is no object, a commercial grade circulator from Polyscience is the best you can get. It is a bit of an overkill for home use. If I had money to burn, I would have a bigger kitchen, and my second circulator would be from Polyscience. They make several models. Here is one on Amazon.

A chamber vacuum sealer would be nice to have, as well as at least two baths--one insulated for longer cooks, and a standard one.

I have one of these digital controllers which does exactly what you're looking for. I'm super happy with it.

If you're thinking cheaper, there's an analog version as well.

This looks like the fastest way to me but it's pretty pricey. Another place to start might be to modify something like this to work as a docking tool rather than a roller.

Use the advice in the other comment, where you vacuum seal some ice cubes. Let it sit out until the water thaws and then see where your leaks are. That will show you where you might have dirt on the heat sealer.

Wiping it might help, especially if you wipe it while it's warm. Be careful not to burn yourself and use something that won't melt or otherwise be affected by the heat. Like a dry paper towel as long as you keep it moving so it doesn't burn or get stuck.

If you want to do it cold then you can try scraping it very, very gently with like a small razor blade or something along those lines. But that's more if it's dirty enough that you can see where plastic is stuck to it. Still... Be very careful and very gentle that you don't damage it though, because then it won't seal right anyway.

It might be better to see if you can order a replacement strip for it, but since the company's not offering much support it might not matter.

You can buy something like this (they should have cheaper ones) and use it to manually seal the bags ahead of where the vacuum sealer is attempting to do so.

I have a dedicated fridge for dry aging. I use this fridge
https://www.amazon.com/Grindmaster-CTR3-75-Countertop-Merchandiser-Refrigerator/dp/B00M8YG3ZW
It stays below 40 and I added this fan for better air circulation.
https://www.amazon.com/OPOLAR-Operated-Rechargeable-Capacity-Hurricane/dp/B0749M96XT/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1536250984&sr=8-1-spons&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=9+inch+fan+usb&psc=1

I unscrewed the base so the fan would fit inside. I hang the ribeye using stainless steel meat hooks.

Another sweet tip- Get a small chest freezer off Craigslist and convert it to a refrigerator with a Johnson controls regulator https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-A19AAT-2C-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0002EAL58/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=johnson+kegerator&qid=1566823193&s=gateway&sr=8-2 . They use about 1/10th the power, are bigger and super cheap. I did this in my rig and love it. I put it right under the counter and cut the counter to flip up.I only have 150 watts of solar and 200AH of battery and can run the refrigerator non stop and charge the batteries. The capacity is also much larger.

>Ok but.... The pizza..........is going cold........
>
>I don't have a pizza box 😕

I deliver pizzas 10 miles away and they are hot. Get a fucking Pizza bag you bum they're twenty bucks!

Pizzas always seep through the bottom of the Box you don't want that shit on your seats and you definitely don't want the steam in your car it'll make it smell like a wet dog...

While you're at it buy a extra large catering bag to put food orders in so they don't leak all over your car as well. I even put fountain drink carriers inside of my caterer bag so if the drinks spill it just spills in my cater bag and I can just hose it out instead of it being all over my car.

Restaurants when they bag up the food they usually do it on a greasy table so the bottom of the food bags are usually greasy I would never set that shit in my car...

https://www.deliverybagsusa.com/

https://www.amazon.com/Proof-Commercial-Grade-Insulated-Delivery/dp/B07KXYMS6Q/

This is what I use. Works like a charm. I typically use it with Wilton treat bags.

Yescom 8" 200mm Impulse Manual... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QK5AEBE?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Yes, this one.

i decided on the Johnson because the wire is thin enough I don't have to drill and can just place it under the lid.

You'll see the copper wire in the top-right corner. Also next to it is a thermostat to make sure it's actually hitting my temperature which right now is 62F.

The glass of water is to place the probe into once the water gets to temp that way I'm not getting false readings from the side or the air and I know what the liquid temperature is to get a better reading of what the beer is actually at.

Looks like this, but don't take my word for it. MMMmm Golden Brown and Delicious. So you can grow potatoes and cod in there right?

https://www.amazon.com/Avantco-Commercial-Portable-Warmer-Free-Standing/dp/B01CGUJONA

I'm pretty sure this is the one (not hone at the moment [burglars: please don't burgle me]): http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002EAL58

> You have obviously never tried to buy commercial kitchen equipment. Or tried to build a commercial kitchen.

You can buy small used equipment used affordably. Not a single person is requiring you to have expensive, brand new, commercial-grade equipment. What you are required to have is equipment that can be cleaned to health code standards, which in this case does not cost significantly more than equipment you'd use in your own home. In fact, many appliances sold for home use meet NSF certification standards. How about we make a kitchen?

All of these refrigerators qualify. I'll let you splurge and we'll spend $2,000 on a fridge/freezer, which will be perfect for the small batches we're making.

Here, let's spend another $2,000 on a brand new oven

$300 for your sink

$630 for a mixer

$146 for a counter

I'll let you splurge and spend $500 on miscellaneous utensils, all brand new. We'll use another $1,000 to get miscellaneous hardware and do all the installation, because why not?

So let's see, that gives you a commercial-grade kitchen for under $7,000. Provided you're using a room that isn't filled with garbage, vermin, or poison and which has floors and walls that can be easily cleaned, I'm really struggling to see where you get your $50,000 from. Surely you're not suggesting that people should be selling food they made in rat and roach infested kitchens that can't be cleaned?

If $7,000 is too much for you, this equipment can be had much cheaper used. If you go used, you're getting awfully close to the $5,000 amount under which you can sell food without a license. It should not at all be hard to fund a commercial-grade kitchen in a year or two if your products sell well enough to warrant getting one.

>Stop trying to argue about things you don't know anything about.

I suggest you take your own advice. We'd all love to see the source for your $50,000 claim that you seem so intent on sticking with.

Does having an external controller along the lines of this, where it cuts AC power to the fridge/freezer, significantly effect power efficiency? Or shorten the compressor life/etc.?

Is there a better solution to that part?

Nice! How are you regulating the temperature though? I would have thought you would need something like [this temperature controller] (http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-A19AAT-2C-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0002EAL58/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381762647&sr=8-2&keywords=johnson+temperature+controller) or do you just want your beer that cold?

Effectively, all you have to do is add a thermostatically controlled switch to control the compressor. Some have recommended products like this (though I don't have personal experience with it). You plug the unit into your wall, freezer into the unit, put the thermocouple in the freezer and set the thermometer.

It was surprisingly cheap. You can buy the necessary converter online or at any brew shop. They should run you about $60. Just search convert freezer to fridge on Amazon etc.
Basically, you plug in your freezer and the controller cuts it on and off to keep it at a fridge temp rather than freeze. Genius.
From there, I took the lid off and built a frame out of 2x4's that I glued to the chest. I used the frame to drill my holes for the taps, hoses, etc. and then re-mounted the lid's hinges to the 2x4's.
My overall cost to set up a two keg system was about $500 for kegs, taps, tanks, etc.
If you are serious and want to do it, just shoot me a message and I'm happy to help.
https://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-A19AAT-2C-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0002EAL58/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1523290700&sr=8-1&keywords=convert+freezer+to+fridge

I have two of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002EAL58/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and although they work well in the summer and spring they are not going to work well in the winter. Apparently you cannot even buy these black boxes. Wish I would have known.

If you want to cellar but don't have a cellar, consider doing what I did:

-get a cheap chest freezer from craigslist

-get one of these

http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-A19AAT-2C-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0002EAL58/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1417031293&sr=8-3&keywords=thermostat+regulator+johnson

(you can control the temp of the freezer pretty well. mine fluctuates between 50-55 degrees)

Finally, and this is not necessary (but I love it), get a raspberry pi , analog thermometer and a breadboard. I have mine tweet me the temperature inside every hour and email me if the temp goes above or below pre set thresholds.

I'm pretty sure you can use this to turn that "Keezer" into a radically dominant kegerator.

This is what I have been looking into. Hope that helps, and maybe some others can give input.

This is coffee land, where we like coffee more than we like artificial flavorings. Those flavored beans are a kind of herpes for coffee gear, with flavors that never quite leave the machine.

But if you are into that sort of thing, you can get him some syrup and a pump and let him tweak his coffee to his heart's content in the cup.

I have this guy: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002EAL58/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Works perfectly. Shuts the power off when my fridge reaches 65 degrees.

I've found a fair amount of people that have done it with chest freezers but mostly they used http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002EAL58?ie=UTF8&tag=selfsufficientlife-20&linkCode=as2&camp=1789&creative=390957&creativeASIN=B0002EAL58

I'm not sure if an upright freezer is fundamentally different. In where the coils go and if that would cause the short cycling to be more of an issue. This is just stuff that I've picked up from researching this and don't really know how much is complete bs and how much is legit which is why I posted here in the hopes of someone saying you aren't crazy that makes sense

Here you go:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002EAL58?tag=wrightfood-20&camp=14573&creative=327641&linkCode=as1&creativeASIN=B0002EAL58&adid=10456JWVX52RVYXDN1MK&




I use this for my meat curing fridge. Works perfectly.

I have this sealer and [this roll of tube] (http://www.uline.com/Product/Detail/S-5869/Shrink-Film-Tubing/14-x-1500-100-gauge-Shrink-Tubing) and [this heat gun] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00004TUCV) that I picked up to do a run of 100 board games.

All three are great, but I don't use them any more. I'm not willing to ship them (just too heavy), but if you're local to Boston by chance, we should talk.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002EAL58/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Got it in today, will see how it goes. Has plenty of excellent reviews.

Good idea man. You can buy external control boxes and run that thing at your desired temp. Not sure if that works for your set up, but...FYI.

Freezer control

I use This as my temperature controller, and it works really well. I keep a digital probe in there as well, so I can zero in on the actual temp.

What's the wineador model? if it's got a compressor instead of being thermoelectric you are going to need one of these or something similar.

But yeah what model is it?

I use a 1/4 horsepower watercooler.
Active Aqua Chiller, 1/4 HP https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008HV7VKG/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_TroZzb0JC63T8

I think a PID would work well. I picked up one of these (sorry for the eBay link, I can't find an actual online store). It monitors temperature and humidity, but I haven't tried it yet. It comes with a sensor and has the proper relays built in, so it should Just Work™. I'd like to hook it up to a regular size fridge, but I don't have room in my apartment for a full size fridge dedicated to curing. :(

My freezer controller works in a pinch, but I'm not sure how good it is a regulating the temperature.

It doesn't take much to convert one either. Just an independent temperature controller like this: http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-A19AAT-2C-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0002EAL58/ref=sr_1_2?s=home-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1372450611&sr=1-2

Also you can get something like this to control the temperature https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002EAL58/

I copped mine on sale but here: Seville Classics Commercial-Grade NSF Top Work Table, 49" W x 24" D x 35.5" H, Stainless Steel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007LQH86/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_IZPxDb1PXXH52

check out these https://www.amazon.com/Hydrofarm-Active-Aqua-Chiller-10/dp/B008HV7VKG?th=1 Might be what you want, might not be.

Might want to look into a chest freezer and getting a thermostat to keep the temperature in the 60-70 degree range for brewing.

A quick google search shows this thermostat as an example of what I'm talking about.

I want to say that this is what you are looking for

You can also buy a 120 volt commercial electric griddle. They're costly, (around $500) but they'll do what you want.

https://www.amazon.com/Waring-Commercial-WGR140-120-volt-Countertop/dp/B004WSJKXO?SubscriptionId=AKIAILSHYYTFIVPWUY6Q&tag=duckduckgo-ffab-20&linkCode=xm2&camp=2025&creative=165953&creativeASIN=B004WSJKXO

Buy a cheap used chest freezer for cheap off of craigslist (many for sale usually): ~$50-100

Buy a temperature controller off of Amazon: $49

http://www.amazon.com/Johnson-Controls-A19AAT-2C-Temperature-Controller/dp/B0002EAL58

Throw in the probe, set the temperature, plug them in, and then fill with beer when you notice it working. Problem solved, possibly under $100.

after reading through this thread, a couple people referenced the Johnson control units.
seems fairly simple to regulate the fridges temp this way.

My item!

Best gif ever.

Would this work for temp control?

Johnson Controls A19AAT-2C Freezer Temperature Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002EAL58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_1j1FwbY9VRKHE

tell him to get an impulse heat sealer and make a poster out of it

Pizza

https://www.amazon.com/Commercial-Pastry-Countertop-20x20x24-Display/dp/B00C9QYHNO/ref=sr_1_1?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1492141601&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.com/Yescom-Impulse-Sealing-Machine-Plastic/dp/B00QK5AEBE/ref=sr_1_1?s=kitchen&ie=UTF8&qid=1458850580&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=heat+sealer&psc=1

Would this work?

cowpox ツ

My local homebrewing store had one in stock that I used to make my freezer a keezer. It doesn't have a temp limit on it (some of the ones I have seen can only do certain ranges).

I don't know if you could convert a freezer for that purpose though, because freezers are designed to blow out that cold air out and I don't know if that would shock your yeast or not.

Anyway, this is the unit I have

I posted this to you on a thread from two days ago then I saw this post.

The chiller is probably going to be the most expensive part of your setup. We started with a Max Chill 1/13 HP for a 20 gallon long tank. It worked fine for us.

We weren't prepared for breakdowns though and when our central air died in August the chillers ran constantly until they overloaded. It turned out to have fuses but that chiller wasn't enough for the larger size tank we wanted and so we replaced them.

Our current chillers are ActiveAqua ASCH50-25 1/4HP. They are much larger but they handle our now 40 gallon in Florida with no problem. In hindsight I would have bought my chiller for the largest tank size I expected to have rather than purchase twice.

Advice. Be ready for adapting for whatever tubing diameter the chiller uses. Ours both provide fittings for 2 sizes. Assuming you have an external filter, you will have to run tubing between them and might need an adapter. The max chill had fittings we used with 1/2 inch interior diameter tubing. The ActiveAqua has fittings for 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch. We still use adapters because our filter uses 5/8 inch tubing.