Reddit mentions of 1 Mil Kapton Tape (Polyimide) - 1/2" X 36 Yds

Probably not.

If you're going to shuck them to use internally (duh right, but I have some of mine in my own 4-bay enclosure and they power on fine) then buy a roll of this to tape the pin, don't do any weird bullshit like splicing cables getting molex adapters whatever, this is easiest

Just a couple of things. DEFINITELY don't use electrical tape. Use Kapton tape. It feels more like a sturdy scotch tape, and is specifically designed for this. More importantly, it won't leave sticky goo like regular electrical tape. I've used this with zero issues:

https://smile.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-Yds/dp/B006ZFQNT6

Second thing, that $8 tape roll will last me for any of these I do for myself and any I could possibly do for anyone else. I know it's not a huge amount of money, but I've never heard of a single person having any issues with the tape method. It's not like you will hurt them with the tape, they just won't start if the tape falls off. Easy fix.

Edit: Also, you're not going to talk about where to get "custom" cables? Never even heard of it.

things i use, that you may already have/may not need depending on your application:

I hate to just say "upgraded grub screws" - but i cant recommend enough getting some hex-headed bolts from lowes/home depot. sadly ive forgotten the exact size, (i believe them to be m6x16mm but really want someone to confirm that. you'll need 2 of them, so i picked up 4 just in case). the included grub screws in the build plate locking mechanism are just so soft, and the allen keys just go through them like mush after 5-10 good torques.

painter's tool or similar - some kind of metal/hard plastic that will be able to get the prints off the build plate. the included spatula wont last long and I generally use it to mix resins that have separated in the vat. using it to also get prints off the build plate damages the plastic and increases risk of puncturing the FEP

lots of paper towels- wiping up drips, cleaning off the bottle drips, cleaning rim of the tank, cleaning off the spatula, placing print to dry after alcohol bath.

paint brushes- both medium and small. even with ultrasonic cleaner, ive seen some people say it doesnt get every nook and cranny and need to wipe down with a soft tip brush to get all excess resin off (i dont use an ultra sonic, but rather a "clean" and "dirty" ipa tubs to try and make sure as much of it comes off before curing)

x-acto knife - sometimes the micro-shears are just too wonky/large to clip a support without damaging the print.

sandpaper- 300 or so grit, not ultra needed, but depends on what you're doing. if printing minis i cant recommend some enough in order to get a smooth bottom on the base after all the supports come off

extra paint strainers - believe it comes with some, but go pick up a 50 pack at lowes, and wont need to worry about using the last of the 5 i think they give you for free

extra, opaque tupperware/jars/containers with wide top. i use old sour cream containers. just to pour off and strain resin into (far easier than trying to get it back into the bottle). can even use some as a final "last wash" ipa bath after ultrasonic cleaner.

random extra to consider: 1 mil kapton tape to seal the LCD and prevent spills from dripping down into the unit. ( https://www.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-Yds/dp/B006ZFQNT6/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=kapton+tape+1+mil&qid=1574726246&sr=8-3 ) some might call it superfluous, but id rather not have my fep puncture then come to find resin all over the motherboard

- just a side note if doing the ultrasonic, put water in the actual tub, and put ipa in a ziplock bag, and put your print in the ziplock bag and seal it, then put the ziplock bag in the water. Wont have any clean out the ultrasonic tub, reduce IPA required to operate. reduce smell. reduce IPA vapors.

I have no idea, but even if the one you got has a 3.3V issue, it's not that hard to solve. Here is a nice album detailing the workaround. I would strongly recommend using kapton tape instead of the kind used in the album. It's the ideal tape for the job, since it's basically made to work with electronics. If you're willing to wait a few weeks, you can get a roll perfect for this situation for as little as one dollar. If you're not able to wait, it'll cost you about ten bucks.

Hey! No problem

1. yes I did all the SMD parts at once, it's much easier to do them all at once.
   
   
2. I did not do any cleaning of the boards, I recommend using solderpaste with flux mixed in (MG 4860P is best in my opinion).
   
   
3. I was very careful when moving from the workbench to the kitchen because I was worried about this. Once the board is on the pan (make sure it's even) there's not much sliding. You'll notice in my video I had to nudge the ARM IC in position, because it had slid off it's pads slightly.
   
   Honestly, using hot air for soldering is very difficult. It's great for desoldering however.
   
   
4. Three of my ICs had shorts which I fixed with an iron afterwards, not too bad. If you're using a hot air gun, you should use some kapton to hold down the IC while you're working on it.
   
   
5. I used a laser thermometer to keep track of my surface temperature, and I placed the board at around 250F to mimic a reflow profile, and waited until all pads had melted before removing from heat and letting cool slowly. You have to watch out for hot spots though, so I moved the board around a little.
   
   
6. Yes - laser thermometer
   
   
7. Visible inspection, check for shorts and check for dry pads (I had a few).
   
   
8. Just the once that look iffy
   
   
9. Yes
   
   
   I did this method as a test, all my previous builds were just done with the fine tip iron, and I think I'll go back to the iron for next time. The time spent is about the same, so there's no real savings there, but it's trickier. Maybe if I were doing 3 or 4 at a time I would do this process again. Actually, If I were doing more, I might just order a film stencil and knock these out in 30 minutes.
   

The magnet wire wrapped around a typical toroid is enameled. This enamel is "just enough" insulation for the job it does. Now, assuming the tape didn't pull off any of the enamel, you still need that outer layer to protect the somewhat fragile enamel. Enamel insulation tends to get brittle when the transformer is used, due to heat. Kapton tape is good for this, and there are a lot of other good options.

Just don't use "electrical tape". That stuff will melt right off.

It looks like only the solder mask was damaged, which is much more susceptible to abrasion than the underlying copper. A simple square of Kapton tape applied directly to the board to keep the copper from oxidizing would likely constitute a full repair. The only other action that might be needed would be to smooth out any rough edges on the post.

The is what I recently ordered and used to block pins.

I used a box cutter to slice a small strip and side it into place. It can be a little tricky at first, but it only takes a few minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Mil-Kapton-Tape-Polyimide-Yds/dp/B006ZFQNT6/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1541983263&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=kapton+tape&dpPl=1&dpID=51B2bKUSrQL&ref=plSrch

If you're concerned about shorting something out, you can spray some conformal coating on any contact areas. Another option would be to use kapton tape on the bottom of the hot wheels or where ever you position it. If it's not making direct contact with any components, you should be fine, however, those cars can roll very easily. For this reason, I'd look at maybe using a light adhesive or something to hold them in place. Common sense warning, don't use adhesive on any components.

Link to conformal coating

Link to kapton tape

Without pictures, I can't give super-specific advice, but I'll try to give some pointers:

First of all, a caution: now that you've pulled up part of a track, heating that track makes it more likely to de-laminate even further. So keep your heating as brief as possible.

Secondly, solder is not meant to be a mechanical connection. Anything you place should be securely taped down so it won't shake loose or put strain on the soldered connections. Similarly, do not attempt to force or strain parts that are soldered down - disconnect, adjust, reconnect.

Next - as for the potential short you have (exposed ground right next to your intended connection point) - we can fix that too.
Use insulating tape (preferably kapton tape - it can withstand high temperatures and you're unlikely to melt it with your iron). to cover up the exposed ground area. Now you can work in that area without fear of an accidental short.

Now you can use standard hookup wire to repair the connections that were once serviced by the now lifted track. In places where you solder down the hookup wire, use kapton tape to reinforce the connection and keep the trace from lifting further. Minimize heating of the broken traces. Once all connections are made and the wire has cooled, you can reinforce those points with something stronger, like electrical tape.

Finally, be sure to test your handiwork before inserting the batteries. Use a multimeter to measure the resistance between the battery positive and negative terminals. It should be non-zero (Above 1k sounds about right).

I hope this helps and good luck!

I actually did a ton or research and took some precautions that I saw no one mention; i.e. covering the area surrounding the CPU die in Kapton tape to prevent any spilled metal from causing a short. It just slipped my mind in the end that the metal block around the cpu wasn't also copper like the heat pipes which look fine Imgur.

Kapton tape
should work as well, if you happen to have some, but you might need to wrap it a few times, it's pretty thin. Might be a bit more permanent as well. I don't have shrink-wrap on hand, so I just use the tape.