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Reddit mentions of 12mm X 33m 108ft Heat Tape Heat Resistant Tape Heat Transfer Tape Thermal Tape High Temp Tape High Temperature Tape Heat Tape for Sublimation for Heat Press No Residue 1Roll

Sentiment score: 4
Reddit mentions: 7

We found 7 Reddit mentions of 12mm X 33m 108ft Heat Tape Heat Resistant Tape Heat Transfer Tape Thermal Tape High Temp Tape High Temperature Tape Heat Tape for Sublimation for Heat Press No Residue 1Roll. Here are the top ones.

12mm X 33m 108ft Heat Tape Heat Resistant Tape Heat Transfer Tape Thermal Tape High Temp Tape High Temperature Tape Heat Tape for Sublimation for Heat Press No Residue 1Roll
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Color: mainly tawny. Material: durable polyimide and silicone.Size: Width: about 12mm; Length: about 30m /100ft. Heat resistance: about 280°C.
High insulation, high temperature resistance, acid and alkali-resistance, low electrolysis, mechanically sound, crocking resistance, tear-resistance, without rest on surface when tearIdeal for protecting sensitive printed circuit board (PCB) components such as gold leads and gold fingers during the process of wave soldering.Also extensive use as electrical insulation for transformer, motor, coil, capacitor and frequency conversion power supply in electronic industry.
Specs:
ColorGolden
Height0.47 Inches
Length3.54 Inches
Weight0.0220462262 Pounds
Width3.54 Inches

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Found 7 comments on 12mm X 33m 108ft Heat Tape Heat Resistant Tape Heat Transfer Tape Thermal Tape High Temp Tape High Temperature Tape Heat Tape for Sublimation for Heat Press No Residue 1Roll:

u/-entertainment720- · 3 pointsr/DataHoarder

I have no idea, but even if the one you got has a 3.3V issue, it's not that hard to solve. Here is a nice album detailing the workaround. I would strongly recommend using kapton tape instead of the kind used in the album. It's the ideal tape for the job, since it's basically made to work with electronics. If you're willing to wait a few weeks, you can get a roll perfect for this situation for as little as one dollar. If you're not able to wait, it'll cost you about ten bucks.

u/HAChaos · 1 pointr/MPSelectMiniOwners

I had the same thing happen to me, no worries you can rewrap it yourself. Though taking the others advice and doing some cold pulls just in case couldn't hurt.

Anyway here the cotton and the tape I bought, worked great.

For the cotton just have a hold punch ready, perfect size to punch out a hole for the nozzle.

u/xakh · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

If it's cool, I'm gonna just respond to this comment and the other one at the same time.

It's a Heatbed MK1? Awesome. Just like a lot of the other parts, that's totally a current component, and addressable by modern stuff. The MK2, 2B, and 3 are much more common these days, but there's still places you can buy a MK1 brand new, and while the new ones are a bit improved in terms of things like heat density and warp resistance, the original is totally usable. They do draw a lot of power, which is why the old machines often had two power supplies, as running with a heated bed isn't always necessary, so it's good to not have to worry about running 20 amps to a bed when you don't need to, haha. The orange material is what's known as Kapton tape. It's a high temperature resistant plastic (how high temperature you ask? One of its early uses was by NASA on the pods of rockets to allow them to survive re-entry. Tough stuff) that's still commonly used for a number of purposes, but back then was commonly used to ensure plastics like ABS stuck to the heatbed. There's other build surface coatings now, though some people still swear by it. The cardboard was probably just an insulator to help spread the heat more evenly, as the MK is around 200mm on both sides, and with an overhang of 100mm on the aluminum, it obviously needs some help to make sure that all stays around the same temperature. I'd keep that put together for now. Later on, there's some parts that can be changed out to make the bed operate in a manner that's a bit more modern, but for now it's serviceable, and not a big issue.

On to the other questions. When you dropped the board, you may have yanked some cables out of the screw terminals on the PSU. If you want to try and fix it, you can always shut off the power from the wall (wait a few minutes before you touch it, there's a lot of power in the caps), and carefully unscrew one terminal at a time, rearranging the wires wrapped around it so they make contact again, then put it back together. Alternatively you can ditch both PSUs and just get an ATX PSU from an old desktop capable of putting out 300-400W on the 12V rail (typically ones rated to 500 and above are good enough, as a decent amount of power is spent on the 5V rail), cutting the heads off a few leads, and plugging those into the power terminals. It's how I've run my primary printer for almost two years now, and it's an easy way to get a reliable, 12V PSU.

It sounds like your motors are all functional but they're either not getting enough current, or that other potentiometer is causing problems. It's pretty tough to kill this kind of motor, the only thing that really breaks them is dropping them, the wires ripping out, or them overheating. They're rated to operate normally at around 75C, though, so it takes a decent bit of work to really destroy ones of the size you have. If you want to test if they're all good, though, take a multimeter and test for resistance on the coil pars. Typically the coils are labeled as green/black and red/blue, but it can differ from manufacturer to manufacturer. As long as there's two distinct pairs of wires that complete a circuit with some resistance (usually it's around .8 ohms or something to that effect, but it differs from motor to motor), they work fine. Drivers are easy to kill, though, especially if you adjust them with a metal screwdriver, which can short spots on the potentiometer and kill certain things. I've easily burned through four or five out of carelessness, but luckily they're easy to source and replace. Honestly, motors are easy to source too, and only cost about $8-12 each, but the way the old Mendels mounted them means replacing them can be a bit of a task.

On the bed's readout, it definitely sounds like something's up with the thermistor, and if it's heating on its own (that is, without you telling it to), then one of the circuits on the RAMPS board may have failed, as some of the current control systems can fail in an "on" state, meaning they just directly pass power through to the bed continuously. That's fixed by replacing the thermistor/replacing the board, respectively. There's ways to replace the surface mounted components, but it's just simpler to replace the two components, in my experience.

u/jameslynnwebb · 1 pointr/modelmakers

Yeah, dry brushing can be good for imitating depth on a surface, like folds in clothing for small figurines or in this case the light shining from the bulb through the headlight fixture. But I don't know how it will look for sure, just an idea!

Kapton tape is a thin, orange-yellow translucent tape that is used in electronics and some mechanical parts because it is heat resistant. But it would be the perfect translucent covering to stick on the headlights https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W3FAFP0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_H6pEzbBGQQVNN

u/IPutTheSeatDown · 1 pointr/led

Maybe something like this? I believe it will give the light an amber quality as well. Heat High Temperature Resistant Adhesive Gold Tape for Electric Task 30m 12mm https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W3FAFP0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_IvIJDbWJHHC0S