Reddit mentions of 25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System

Get this:

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

​

Side note- you should look into getting your dad a Python aquarium water changer. Hooks up to your faucet and can both empty and fill the tank for you. I got my dad one because he’s got a slipped disk in his back and couldn’t carry his buckets anymore.

It would certainly be easier to answer "What did you already know" before you started this. Nothing.

This list will inevitably be incomplete but here goes:

• How to fiberglass - also, fiberglass is nasty.
  
• How to use a router properly
  
• How to solder (for the lights)
  
• How to clean silicone off of every surface known to man (Vinegar and razor blades)
  
• The cheap white insulation foam at Home Depot sucks to carve. Get the pink stuff.
  
• When carving foam rocks, don't sweat the details because the concrete is going to completely cover them up anyway.
  
• Sanded grout/concrete (I think I actually used concrete), you basically need a splash of water per 2 cups of concrete - and sanded looks way more like real rock than unsanded
  
• You really only need 2 colors of paint to make realistic rocks (black and white). Nature will add the rest of the colors once you introduce plants.
  
• Cut notches in any PVC supports to prevent stagnant water in your pipe.
  
• What vivarium makers call egg crate is really the plastic lattice you find under commercial florescent lights.
  
• Egg crate is pretty darn studry and can hold a lot of weight when properly supported (used it under the planted sides).
  
• Use organic (non-fertilized) garden soil for the planted part of a vivarium. Actually, you might not need soil at all if you have fish since you basically end up with a closed circuit hydroponic system.
  
• Expanding foam is impossible to completely scrub off without taking some skin with it. Wear rubber gloves.
  
• Like the rocks, don't sweat the details with expanding foam if you plant to cover it (like I did with Hygrolon). I included a ton of texture that is completely obscured by the moss (but hey, the moss still looks great).
  
• Tape plexiglass before you cut it. It makes for a much cleaner (and safer) cut.
  
• Sheet moss can be pinned to your background with bamboo skewers and it works pretty darn well. The moss will take at least a few weeks to really attach to the background.
  
• You should really have your entire land area planted before introducing fish. The run-off from lots of new material can cause a few fish deaths. :(
  
• A powerhead doubles as a vacuum, reducing tank maintenance. Just scrape off the powerhead grate every few days.
  
• You don't really have to dechlorinate your water before doing a large water change (30 gallons in my case is not unusual). Before adding new water, dose your tank with prime for the entire tank volume.
  
• Purigen is pure magic. ..but don't count on being able to regenerate it, even if you've never used any of the fouling chemicals it lists.
  
• If you have a manifold, keep it over a bucket...just in case.
  
• Plants release CO2 at night (weird, right), so you might find your fish at the surface gasping for air. Add an airstone. Don't ask me how to properly weight down an air hose though, still working that bit out.
  
• There are ultrasonic foggers meant for ponds that work great in vivariums! They make the most fog when submerged but still fairly close to the surface. Make sure animals can't come in contact with the fogger itself though...they hurt pretty bad when you touch them.
  
• Plants will grow just fine under LEDs with the right spectrum.
  
• A fan at the top of your window and a small gap at the bottom will help prevent your window from fogging since dry air will be drawn across the glass.
  
• Snails are AMAZING algea eaters and their population naturally stays in balance with the available food supply. You don't need to order gobs of them, they reproduce very quickly on their own. And don't sweat it if you don't see them for a few weeks after adding them to your tank. Trust that they are doing good work.
  
• Little white worms in your substrate mean you are likely overfeeding.
  
• Pushing water vertically 8 feet is hard, yet my canister filter managed it pretty ok. I added an inline pump anyway, but if you have a smaller setup, a simple manifold on your filter output should probably be fine to split the water return to different areas.
  
• Finding aquarium manifolds with barbs is hard. Jeez, it shouldn't be so hard. Might be better to piece one together at the hardware store than spending a ton of time finding one online.
  
• Prepping found wood for a vivarium is a lot of work, but waaay cheaper than buying it. Just soak it in salt water for a few days, switch to fresh water and do water changes daily. If you're paranoid like me, boil it for a few hours and then leave it in your oven at 200 degrees for as long as it takes to dry.
  
• Large water changes are way easier with the Python: http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC
  
  And probably another 1000 things.

You're gonna likely want one of these, there are a few different kinds to choose from beyond this. Hell, you could even make your own. But it will make your life much easier.
http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1405905674&sr=8-2&keywords=aquarium+water+change

right here. Python No Spill Water Changer. attaches to your faucet. pulls the water out of the tank into the sink and then sends water back into the tank to refill what you've removed.

http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

Ever tried one of these out? They make water changes way easier

Well, then you'll love this even more.

What?

You mean pumps? Yes there are pumps that can lift water into your aquarium...

That being said, the Python water changer is a highly popular product for simplifying water changes.. Just run a mix of warm/cold water into the tank when you top up.

Doesn't have to be exactly the same temp, so long as the tank isn't swinging around wildly in temperature.. A few degrees either way is OK...

Oh dear. Is this your first big fish tank? Or first fish tank?

I would highly recommend getting a Python Water changer. It is a little pricy but it is worth the cost.

Other things you will probably need with your python for doing water changes/filling the tank.

- Some 5 gallon buckets from home depot (Great for all sorts of things, they just come in handy in the hobby, a must-have) Very cheap

- A Digital thermometer for water to help temperature match to your tank before adding the water.

- A fish saver cover for your python water changer to help you save fish when you're doing a water change.

Okay, you have my attention. Is this hose all I need? https://www.amazon.com/Python-Aquarium-Maintenance-System-50-Feet/dp/B000255NXC?th=1&psc=1

7. Fishless cycling is very simple:
   
   

• Do not change the water throughout the process
  
  
• I will address post-cycle water changes in the next #.
  
  
• Go to your local hardware store (Ace hardware here carries it) and get some pure Ammonia. You need to make sure it has no surfactants. The best way to test for this is to vigorously shake the bottle of ammonia and see if any " soapy bubbles" form. Bubbles should form from the trapped air, but they should dissapate immediately.
  
  
• SO, get your tank ready, substrate etc, filter, heater etc. and turn the heater up to 82° (bacteria love the heat). Add ammonia until it is registering between 2ppm and 4ppm using your API master test kit. If you are wondering how much you need to add to get there, use this. Then, just keep the ammonia steadily at 2ppm-4ppm until you start to see Nitrites present in your tests (usually takes a week or two at least). Once you see nitrites, continue adding ammonia to keep it at 2ppm to 4ppm until you begin to see the nitrites fall and nitrates are present. Unfortunately the API master test kit, while pretty much the best out there for hobbyists, doesn't really provide too accurate of readings for nitrate but does a great job of letting you know whether or not they are present. Once nitrates are present, stop adding ammonia and wait until your readings are 0 ammonia, 0 nitrite, and some amount of nitrates. At that point you are cycled! Then perform a 50-75% water change to remove the majority of your nitrates and start tossing plants and fish in the tank :). It is totally safe to add the plants at the very beginning of cycling the tank, but they will eat up a lot of the ammonia, nitrites, and nitrates, thus making it more difficult for your beneficial bacteria to eat. The most important part of the fish-in cycle is making sure at ALL TIMES that there is ammonia present for the bacteria to eat. If there is no source of ammonia, there is no source of food and the beneficial bacteria will die off.
  
  

8. Water changes! If you choose EI dosing for fertilization it is simply 50% water changes once a week on a set schedule. If you don't choose EI dosing, a recommended water change schedule on a cycled 5 gallon would be ~30% once a week. Always avoid 100% water changes unless your tank is infested with an uncurable disease. 100% water changes will shock your fish very badly as it causes a dramatic shift in PH, temperature, and water hardness.
   
   
9. Moving a full fluval spec 5, while difficult, is doable. If the tank is established and good to go you just absolutely need to make sure that your filter media stays wet during the whole trip or the beneficial bacteria will die. I would suggest just taking all the media out and placing in a ziplock bag with some tank water in it.
   
   
10. Don't stress about the quarantine tank. While I know this isn't the best practice, I only use them when a fish gets sick. I keep one running because it is packed with live plants but otherwise I wouldn't run it unless I had sick fish. As long as you trust the source of your incoming fish/plants they aren't necessary. I have forgone quarantine with all of my new community fish that I have been adding to my tanks and have yet to have any issues. That being said, it is always safer to quarantine new additions. For a quarantine tank all you will need is some form of filtration and a heater. A light isn't necessary and to boot, keeping fish in the dark when you first get them significantly helps reduce the stress from a new environment.
    
    
11. Finally, some tips!
    
    

• Get some Seachem Prime It is head and shoulders above any other water conditioner on the market. It neutralizes ammonia without removing it, allowing your beneficial bacteria to still have something to eat (Patented formula) and does everything any other water conditioner does on top of that. To boot, while expensive up front, it is the cheapest water conditioner out there as it literally takes 1ml/10 gallons to condition your water. It should be noted that you can safely dose it up to 5x the recommended amount with no worries so dont worry about measuring out minute amounts too much. That being said, see the next bullet :).
  
  
• Go to your local drugstore and ask for some free syringes. They are incredibly useful in dosing everything you need to put in your tank. If you don't want to do that, you can find them very cheap on Amazon. Make sure you get a 1ml and like a 5ml.
  
  
• Get a stainless steel aquascaping kit. They are invaluable for trimming plants and smoothing out your tank.
  
  
• I'm sure you already have considered this but in case you haven't make sure you get a siphon for tank cleaning. This one is not only cheap but is freaking awesome. If you want to go big you can get one of these setups as they allow you to hook up to a sink and not have to fuss around with buckets of water.
  
  
• When you plant the tank, you will want to plant at least 40-50% of the ground surface with plants. The reason for this is that if there is not enough competition for algae, with all the nutrients, light, and co2, the algae will take over. This will be particularly difficult with a java moss carpet as they usually come in small clumps and take some time to get established but it can be done.
  
  
• Find something that your betta can take refuge in. A cave, coconut shell, or something of the like so he/she has a place to escape the light when they feel like it. I personally build these out of slate tile from the hardware store. The tile is $1.98/sq. ft. and you can use aquarium silicone to piece them together.
  
  
• Finally, consider some taller, broad-leaf plants like Amazon Swords or larger varieties of Aubias. They will provide shelter from light, and a great place for your fish-friend to rest near the surface.
  
  
  And that should do it! I really hope this helped. Last but not least, here are some shots of my tanks :) :
  
  
• http://i.imgur.com/lYu70ZW.jpg
  
  
• http://i.imgur.com/qP7LmqU.jpg
  
  
• http://i.imgur.com/lL2M7xw.jpg
  
  
• http://i.imgur.com/Gkkywcv.jpg
  
  
• Squeeks!!!
  
  
• Squeeks!!!
  
  
  
  My hands are tired =D.

I’m sorry to say the above comments are right. Common goldfish get over 1 foot in length and are incredibly messy fish. They really belong in a pond, but you could theoretically keep one in 75 gallon (but a 90 gallon is the same footprint with a little more height, offering more water and therefore easier to keep clean). Really, they should have a tank that is at least 6 foot long and 18 inches wide, but a 75 (4 feet and 18 inches wide) would be the bare minimum. Anything narrower and the fish will have trouble turning around as goldfish get over 12-14 inches long if they are healthy. They will stay smaller if their growth is stunted, but this is extremely unhealthy for them and results in a much shorter lifespan. With a 75 or 90 gallon, be prepared to do 30-50% waterchanges every week (which should be pretty easy with a system like the python. You won’t need a heater, but you will need a great filter. I recommend a canister filter, but if that is out of your price range two of these or better yet two of these will work well. Goldfish are plant eaters so you won’t have to worry about plants, so you can get whatever light you like/what’s cheapest. Big tanks are expensive, but you can often find them used along with the stands (which saves a ton of money). You can also get a 75 gallon half off from Petco during the dollar-per-gallon sale, and then build your own stand (tons of plans online). For substrate, I would buy pool filter sand (very cheap and great for goldfish, it can’t get stuck in their mouths like gravel and it looks awesome, it’s easy to keep clean too). There are a lot of ways to cut costs, especially with a goldfish tank that doesn’t need a filter or fancy light. Feel free to ask any questions, and please do some research on the nitrogen cycle (introduction ) it’s the most important thing you can possibly learn as a new fishkeeper! You will need a test kit too, to test your water. Don’t bother with test strips as they are very inaccurate, go ahead and get this. If you want to cycle the tank quickly and without a hassle, this is the only one that really works. Welcome to the wonderful world of fishkeeping! Best of luck with your pet! Goldfish are lots of fun.


Edit: petsmart has a 75 gallon tank with stand, lid, and light for half off today for Black Friday (at $249 a screaming deal for a brand new tank!!) if you are interested.

My life became a lot easier and my tank became a lot cleaner when I removed the substrate. Your turtle doesn't care about the rocks on the bottom of the tank, and it may try to eat any that are small enough.

That being said - it sounds like you guys are doing 100% water changes, which is overkill (and removes the bacteria that make up a good environment). Most people recommend 20-50% water changes depending on how dirty things are.

If the rocks are river rocks, then I'd just fill up a bucket with the rocks and carry that to strain/wash them. You can use a traditional hose with suction to empty dirty water, or something like this python aquarium cleaner. Basically you hook it up to your sink and can fill up a tank OR drain it using suction. You may not have a sink that has the right threading though - I had 2 apartments where it wouldn't work and now I need an adapter, but its amazing.

You could also get a better filter. Getting an external canister instead of the internal ones that hang on the side (which never stay on...) was a huge plus for me.

There are probably also water vacuums that would help. But I don't know of any.


Easiest thing though is to get rid of the substrate. Stick to doing 30%ish water changes instead of cleaning it completely. Perhaps upgrade your filter (you should probably have a filter rated for a 80+ gallon tank).

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

Not sure if its available in UK, it is a couple of pounds over your budget but a very good gravel vac otherwise.

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

I use this and it helps a lot. No buckets

In theory you could get yourself a few A/B valves like this. The problem is that the only way you can "suck water back in" is if you push it through the canister filter. Obviously the problem there is that you can't treat the water.

Though I'd suggest just getting a python. You just connect it to the faucet, turn the water on and switch it to "drain mode" to remove water from the tank. When you're done, reverse the flow and it'll start putting water into the aquarium instead. After all the new water is in the tank, you treat it and re-engage your filter.

It’s less than 50 actually

I have five tanks: 38g, 20,20,20,10. It takes me ten to 15 minutes to do 50% changes on three of my EI dosed tanks and 25% on my low techs. 👌🏼 my husband got it for me when my back was hurting from buckets, and it totally saved me.

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

​

Yes I am being serious. Goldfish are messy fish, they require an active owner.

I can't say much because you didn't specify what your parents are against and what you've done so far to try to convince them.

But from my experience (had to convince my parents too) collect as much information as possible and show it to them in a calm, non confrontational/emotional manner.

Info such as:

• Basic fish info: the nitrogen cycle & what the good bacteria does, stunting growth consequences
  
  
• Basic goldfish info: how long they live, how big they get, videos of happy & clean goldfish tanks such as Solid Gold on youtube
  
  
• Get an API liquid water test kit and and test the water. Have numbers to back you up!
  
  
• Tank size - do what purple_potato said. There are still a LOT of sites with misinformation that come up on the first pages of google so be careful! They might counter with that.
  
  
• Tank weight - How old is your house? What floor do you live in? Can the floor hold the weight of the aquarium? (75 gallons is about 850 lb with water. If you have fancy goldfish you won't need that big of a tank but if they're comets 75 is a good size, but realistically you won't be allowed to get a 75)
  
  
• Make a budget sheet. List all the expenses for the tank, filtration, heater (depending on where you live), air stone (if needed), water conditioner, siphon, food.
  
  How much money do you have? Be prepared to use your own money. Look around on craigslist/letitgo/etc for good tank deals. If you're short on money and can't find any good deals, consider using storage bins or other alternatives.
  
  Keeping it very clean, visually pleasing (eg live plants), and quiet (eg noise from the spray bar and air stones) also helps.
  
  Who's going to keep up with water changes and care? How old are you? Do you plan to move out soon? Since goldfish tanks are huge, water changes can quickly become a drag (unless you have money for a python or a similar setup) .
  
  Alternatively, find someone that will take the goldfish and get a betta or other suitable fish for a 10 gal. Happy fish and your parents still get to "care" for a fish!

First-timer in over his head here. Could use an assist with setup. The ultimate goal is setting up something my (soon-to-be) 2 year old daughter will enjoy watching.

Planning on purchasing:

Tank & Stand: Aqueon 45G tank ensemble - $250

Light: LED - Included with tank

Filter: MarineLand Penguin 200 Power Wheel - $21

Heater: Orlushy Submersible Aquarium Heater 150W - $18

Python: Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System - $40, 24 inch adapter - $10, [hook] (https://smile.amazon.com/Python-Spill-Aquarium-Gravel-24-Inch/dp/B004PBHX4G/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_2/146-3053739-1242457?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004PBHX4G&pd_rd_r=42a7c2bc-877d-414d-b0c9-2960fa629e40&pd_rd_w=q7tkK&pd_rd_wg=fjx36&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW&psc=1&refRID=ZE4SB0SAMR7BKXT7Z4QW) - $20, and this adapter for my non-threaded faucet - $12

Conditioner: [API Water Conditioner] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $7

Bacteria: [API Quick Start] (https://smile.amazon.com/API-CONDITIONER-Aquarium-Conditioner-16-Ounce/dp/B004LO9KSY/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2SD31AR7OVW3V&keywords=water+conditioner+aquarium&qid=1567987105&s=gateway&sprefix=water+condition%2Caps%2C159&sr=8-3) - $4

Test Kits: [API 5-in-1 Test Strips] (https://smile.amazon.com/5-IN-1-AQ-Test-Strips-100CT/dp/B077YS7Y4Y/ref=sr_1_3?crid=VPPBFJ1NJSMG&keywords=api%2Btest%2Bkit&qid=1567987538&s=gateway&sprefix=api%2Btest%2Caps%2C210&sr=8-3&th=1) - $26

That takes me up to $408. That leaves me about $100-150 in the budget my wife gave me to get decorations and the fish themselves. (It was supposed to be $500, but we always go slightly over budget)

Any recommendations on large and colorful fish that could attract and keep a toddler's attention? Preferably peaceful.

Any other recommended tweaks to the build? I haven't purchased anything yet, so I'm willing to completely scrap this and start over if somebody has a better idea of how to use the money.

I was intimidated by the line from the sink thing for years, and lugged 5 gallon buckets back and forth every week. I finally paid something like $40 for one of the large tubes that hooks up to your sink, and my life has been much better since -- as have my fish. Honestly, just get one of these (or something like it) right now: https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC You can save yourself a world of pain down the road -- I really wish I had done it sooner.

Brief exposure to chlorine while things are mixing up isn't going to hurt your fish. With all of the chemicals, I swirl them a few mls at a time in a pint glass full of tank water (I keep a "fish glass" next to the aquarium) then dribble that concentrated solution around the tank while I mix it in. My biggest concern is making sure the fish don't get a facefull of algae eliminator or something that could actually cause pain/damage them.

The water temperature is a little tricker. You can run back and forth between the sink and the tank and do water temperature comparisons before you actually flip the switch and send the water over. After it's flipped, I hold one hand under the "new" water coming out and another at the opposite end of the tank, and make any fine-tune changes I need to then.

> honestly, I wouldn't put him in there, get him something around 5g and he'll be soooo stoked. even a full gallon would be passable.

Agreed x100. Basing a 55 around a SINGLE FUCKING BETTA is a huge mistake imo. You can do so many cool things with a tank that size, why limit yourself to what gets along with the most basic of basic predatory fishes? You probably would not ever see the betta anyway, they become much less interested in you when they have a big tank + friends + things to look at inside the tank.

Also OP get yourself a python (for water changes) you'll thank me later.

You may want to invest in a Python hose. It hooks straight up to your faucet. When you're removing water from your tank, it sends the water straight down your sink drain, but when you're adding water it connects to your faucet and goes to your aquarium.
No need for buckets, heaters or spilling water. Pretty easy.

They're a bit pricey but well worth it.
https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467132484&sr=8-1&keywords=python+aquarium+water+changer

Heard good things about this: Python Siphon

Hooks right up to your faucet. This guy gives a pretty nice review about the set up and whatnot.

One of these

Not the snek, a Python

Check out the python water changing system! Get a hose length that will reach from your tank to your room. I recommend also purchasing the green hook that makes refilling easier, as well as a longer siphon attachment (my personal opinion. Not necessary.) It has made my life a million times easier. What I do when I refill is attach the hook, and run my temperature matched water back into my tank. About halfway through being refilled I will dose the full amount of my tank with dechlorinator. No more buckets!

Python water changer

Watch some videos of this system on YouTube so you can get an idea of all of its parts and to see how it works!

Back when I was younger I hated when that happened. Now I just use a python http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000255NXC/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just a heads up, that turtle is going to get very big in the next year. The flotation piece will not hold the turtle and you will need something bigger. It will work for a few months but it is something I wish I knew.

Also, the bigger the filter, the better. I waisted so much money because I thought fish filters would work. I can't see what you have but spending the $100- $150 on a huge filter is 100% worth the investment. They are also quieter. You can't even hear it once it is going. The bigger filters also have all the clay and carbon and such that fish filters lack (which is important for your turtles health).

Keep in mind that the UV light only lasts 6 months. It will continue to work (be on), but not actually be doing anything to benefit the turtle.

Also, I totally recommend this product. It is absolutely amazing. I mean anything like this will work, but this requires no buckets. I used to lift my turtle tank until I upgraded to a bigger one. This also saves me so much time.

The one I was referring to comes with a little valve in the line and an adapter to connect it to your sink. I'll find a link when I'm at a pc.
edit: Here's the link

Little fish could go up it, but just be careful. It doesn't create a huge suction or anything.

As far as plants, both Java fern and pretty much any species of Anubias would be easy to care for and help out your tank. Anubias is a slow grower which means it won't use up a ton of nutrients (nitrate, etc) but Java fern should pull a little more out. There are also floating plants you can look into that work well. Honestly for this stuff /r/plantedtank is a great resource

Ah okay, that sounds tough! Have you considered getting a Python Water Changer? I bought one, & it changed my life lol.

And depending on what vendor you purchase your shrimps from, they can come w/ a whole host of ailments, unfortunately. This is especially w/ any neocaridinia shrimp, that may have a species-specific fungus. 🙁

Additionally, you may want to transfer some of the gravel from your previous tank into the 10gal. Siphoning the water isn’t enough to transfer the cycled bacteria over, as the bacteria live on surfaces, such as the substrate & filter media. During tank setups or temporary tanks, you can speed up the cycling process by seeding the tank w/ filter material from an already established tank. To keep the bacteria alive during any water changes or tank moves, have the media submerged in the same tank water it was housed in, & don’t let it get too hot or cold.

25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_n7NRCb42QKKM8

As far as your dechlorinator goes, check out Seachem Safe in place of Seachem Prime. It is essentially the powdered form of Prime so it is more concentrated and lasts forever. That 250g container treats something insane like 50,000 gallons of water where the 500mL bottle of prime treats 5,000. And this is by no means essential but the Python water changer is an amazing tool and has made water changes so much easier and less stressful. As far as substrate if you go with sand I would use pool filter sand, you can get a 50lb bag at Lowe's or Home Depot for about $6. I use it in all of my tanks with no issue. I have read that the play sand can be quite a bit messier and take longer to settle, though I have no personal experience with it. Good luck!

I use a syphon hose. Right here on amazon

I would like to add that I live in Spokane,WA. And use tap water every time.

After every water change I treat my water with Stress Coat

I own 1 Oscar, 1 Red Jewel Cichlid, 1 Convict and 1 Pleco in my 75g.

As far as moving the fish, nothing changes when you go bigger. The steps listed above are perfect. My best advice is, if the fish store can hold the fish for you until you set up your tank at home, do that. Other than that you're just at a race against time from the moment the fish go into the bags. You benefit from being close to your LFS, so don't worry! And post pics when its done!

Get one of these: 25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_gZxtybDR5SQEG

You need to treat the water as it goes in, though. Once the tank is established and you do smaller water changes, I usually put the chemicals in as I'm filling from the tap. But I know the parameters of our tap water and know exactly what will need to go in as far as pH balancing etc.

The main thing is really just to monitor everything closely. Check the water from your tap before you move the tank. The nice thing about the python is that it aerates the water so that there isn't as much chlorine before it hits the tank. But you still need to add a water conditioner (I like Seachem Prime).

For the first adding of water, you want to preserve as much of the microscopic flora and fauna as possible. In my original comment I didn't add this, but don't scrub the tank or remove the sand if you can because colonies of beneficial bacteria live there. And then slowly add water of the proper temperature and acclimate your fish as slowly as possible.

Haha I was confused for a second. When you want to make a post make sure you are into the text box for the thread and not someone's comments. You will be more noticed.

Butttt Lets see what I can help you with...

1. Larger the tank, easier it is to maintain water chemistry. Generally you want to do a water change weekly. I sometimes get lazy and will wait longer between water changes. When it comes to filters you want them to be larger than your aquarium. So, 75g tank you'll want something rated larger than that. You should not have to dismantle anything. I use I use this for all of my water changes.
   
   Also to this point I noticed you want a lot of different fish. Be careful. A lot of schooling fish like to be in groups of 6+ and some fish have anger issues. Using this stocking website will give you a good idea of how many fish you can have and if they work well with others.
   
   And then plants! Live plants are great to have. Make sure you look into them. Some get their nutrients from the soil while others get them directly from the water.
   
   
2. This hobby can be expensive. Without Black Friday my current set up would cost over $1,000 and that's not including lights. Since you are looking for a 75g tank make sure to keep an eye out for dollar gallon sales at petsmart. They happen every few months. You'll also want to make sure you have a sturdy enough stand for it also. When it comes to fish, just take a peek at petsmart website. Must of their fish are $3 to $10. If your town has a Local Fish Store (LFS) you may be able to find better deals. For plants, keep your eye on /r/AquaSwap for deals. I personally have had great success with /u/butteredscrimp. If you give them details on your tank and how much you are looking to spend, they will put together a package for you.
   
   
3. On the side bar there are a bunch of helpful links you can look through. Besides the ones I posted above some other ones are: Guide to Starting a Freshwater Tank, Fishless Cycling.
   
   Currently at 2365 characters and probably my longest reddit post. It is a lot of information and if you have any questions do not hesitate to ask!

The obvious answer, but if you want to save a few bucks or dont have a sink close by this one works with a bucket...

Have you considered a python water changing system? I love mine, it's saved my back for sure. Plus you can get the tubing from any hardware store too!

python no electronics it uses a Venturi pump, it basically uses water flow to get suction

You don't need to let tap water sit for outdoor vegetable gardens.

Two alternatives:

1. http://www.doityourself.com/stry/how-to-attach-your-garden-hose-to-the-kitchen-faucet
   
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

Currently I use this: https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC , you plug it to your tap (mine is plugged in the bathtub, it doesn't fit properly, so I use duct tape, but it works!)

Siphoning tube just goes into a bucket and you have to carry, where a python has a valve you can switch so it drains into and out of your sink: https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

It sort of depends really. They have specific needs, but they aren't too difficult to care for. I have a python water changer and it takes most work out of fishkeeping.

Once your tank is established (fishless cycling is the best way to do this) you only need to do a 20% water change weekly. I hook up the python, turn on the water (this creates a syphon/vacuum), then vacuum the gravel (using the python) while removing 20% of the water. Next you set the tap water temperature to the same as your tank. Put chlorine/chloramine remover into your tank, then you turn the end on the python, it makes the water go through the hose and into the tank. Once it's full, you shut it off and your all done.

It sounds kind of like a long process, but to clean and water change a 20 gallon tank, it takes about 3-5 minutes or less a week.

Really the key is to not overstock your tank and have good filtration. Good filtration makes for easy maintenance and happy healthy fish.

get a hose of some kind and just drain it in to a bucket. I'd suggest this. There are cheaper ones, but something that attaches to the sink will be the easiest. If you don't have it, like I said a hose and bucket and boom there ya go. OR just take a longer hose and run it outside.

You can also just wear dish gloves that go up to your elbows...

Get a Python No-spill Clean and Fill. Best money I ever spent in the hobby, seriously.

In addition to what the previous poster said about cycling the tank before you get your axolotl(s), I recommend a canister filter for a 20g tank.
I use this one: Penn Plax Cascade 500 GPH Canister Filter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DJIQW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_z1TDybRH4D83H
It comes with a spray bar to help with aeration without disturbing your axolotl(s). I used a small hanging filter at first but it did not do the trick. Every time I chemically tested the water it was far from the correct conditions. The information for replacement filter media is either included or easy to find.

I also can't recommend this enough:
25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_P3TDyb818ZDDW
It attaches to a sink faucet (you will need a tool to remove the aerator on the faucet) and will both drain and fill your aquarium and save you a ton of time. It disturbs the water way less than lugging containers back and forth. My axolotls don't care about it at all, sometimes they would stay right in front of the tube as it was pouring water. They make different lengths, so measure the distance between your tank and sink before you purchase it. You'll want a little slack, of course.

Get a bottle of dechlorinator for when you do water changes. A digital aquarium thermometer is crucial for making sure the tank stays below 68°F. Having a separate container and a net is helpful in case you need to take the axolotl(s) out for salt baths, tank maintenance, or fridging.

Live plants are good for the tank's ecosystem but having some additional fake plants gives the tank a nice look. Make sure your live plants are either the floating kind or you have them secured because axolotls snuffle and bobble around and have a tendency to pull up your plants. If you feed them frozen bloodworms (as adults) it's helpful to have a clear turkey baster so that you can suck up the worms and feed them easily and make sure that the baster is always clean. Make sure you have something to clean up their poo, like a designated spoon or something.

I had sand for a while but it's a little hard to keep clean, so I removed all my sand recently and my axolotls seem to like it better. I replaced all their decor recently (because they're spoiled, lol) and one of mine really likes all of the new hides and the other really likes all of the new places to climb. They really like laying on top of their plants for some reason? So get sturdy plants I guess.

If your local temperature is hot and humid, you'll probably want to invest in (or build) some kind of chiller because evaporative cooling with fans won't work in high humidity. If it's hot but mostly dry, you might be able to get away with fans and an insulator (like this guy did: https://youtu.be/zp6QhXArIEY). I built one slightly better by using two layers of foam core instead of cardboard, and cut the sides of the four panels so they sort of puzzle-pieced together, making it easier to check on them.

I apologize for the lots of scattered info but I hope it helps!

If you have the money to spend I would recommend the Python. It hooks up to your sink so it's just a matter of pulling some levers.

Other wise, ten gallon storage containers + armless rolling chairs work well for me. Dechlorinate in the ten gallon then use one gallon containers to pour the water into the tank. And a siphon is a must!

I do a similar water change with the Python water change system (got it here https://amzn.com/B000255NXC) and always mix in the water conditioner as it fills, so far no issues. Filling with pre-declorinated water is of course the safest, but really can't beat the efficiency of straight from faucet for large tanks.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000255NXC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538278803&sr=8-1&keywords=python+water+changer&dpPl=1&dpID=51YeYVxMgBL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000255NXC/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Here is the mobile version of your link

THis is what use i have a short garden hose going from my bathroom to link 1 being in my commode then ihave this on the other end and never have an issue


https://www.amazon.com/Python-13B-Aquarium-Replacement-Pump/dp/B000255NVE/ref=pd_sim_199_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000255NVE&pd_rd_r=WNXK5PRH55C2W9TGA6J0&pd_rd_w=MII6T&pd_rd_wg=vJEVx&psc=1&refRID=WNXK5PRH55C2W9TGA6J0



https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=pd_sim_199_5?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000255NXC&pd_rd_r=28H3RTT8BS8AWF8TP0AJ&pd_rd_w=LitCh&pd_rd_wg=mUiY3&psc=1&refRID=28H3RTT8BS8AWF8TP0AJ

It must be pretty fast acting, I was worried it'd be hard in the fish. I live in Canada so idk about buying stuff online.. Popular sites like liveaquaria don't even ship across the border.

If I can't find anything near me, I'll see about ordering off plantedaquarium.

Edit: plantedaquarium redirected me to Arizona Aquarium Group or something and when I looked them up the reviews were horribly so..idk.

http://www.amazon.ca/Python-25NS-25-Feet-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=sr_1_1?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1426085439&sr=1-1&keywords=python Is this the python siphon you meant?

I'm in the final stages of planning/buying my loop.

But now that you mention it I totally want to try using this tool I have for my aquarium to assist in suction.

Sorry I didnt mean just a regular gravel vaccum. I meant the python no spill clean and fill water changer. It's like $50 not $5...

The one that connects to the faucet:
25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Ee4QCb2MVNR07

Whoops! This is the Python (25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_AZzXCbHD07BBY)

Cool! Where does the purified water then go? Into a 5 gallon bucket or something?

Oh man.. you need a Python and whatever adapters you want

Here is a link for a lot of videos on what it does

I have one for my 12 long and only use it to fill. Its worth the setup for a 5 gallon water change since Im not dumping or splashing water around the tank

I did a DIY sump filter that you can find plans for all over the place.

https://imgur.com/a/o4DED

I have a siphon overflow on my aquarium with a small pump attached to it to prevent losing it's siphon or restarting it after power failure/water changes.

The water flows into the top draw of filter floss for filtering, then trickles into the second drawer over top of plastic scrubbies and finally into the the third drawer where it is filled with lava rocks that are permanently submerged in water. A water pump returns the water to the top of the tank have the process repeat itself over and over.

I further ran a small water line (think freezer ice maker water line) that constantly tops off the tank from evaporation and cycles the water to some extent to the point where I do water changes about every two-three months. In the second photo of the sump you can see an overflow tube that takes any excess water down to my basement to a drain there. Water changes every couple months isn't so much a necessity as the water clarity and pollutants really don't change in that time frame but I do it for peace of mind/get the gunk the guppies aren't eating off the bottom.

For water changes I can't recommend the python enough. It is crazy how easy this has made water changes for my aquariums.

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1506469996&sr=8-1-fkmr1&keywords=python+aquarium+water+changing

Its not too hard if you get something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Python-25NS-25-Feet-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

It takes less than half an hour to change 50% of my 75 gallons, and most of it is me sitting on my couch watching TV trying not to forget I have it running.

Yes, people are talking about the Python Water Changer. It lets you siphon and refill using your faucet. https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&source=web&rct=j&url=https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC&ved=0ahUKEwjekfPjiILWAhXK7SYKHQazDHwQFghjMAA&usg=AFQjCNFngql1jdu7NGA5zGtriDUAK1mLIw

How far from a sink is it? My husband uses one of these to run warm tap water to a basement aquarium and it works like a charm.

Python is a brand that makes a system that connects directly to your sink and allows you to drain and fill directly connected to the sink, no buckets.

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

Even better, get yourself a Python. These are designed for aquarium cleaning but work amazingly well for for pet bath time.

Don't get me wrong, removable shower heads are good too, but if you're only getting something for your pet and not the both of you, this trumps all.

Just look up the python water change system on Google or Amazon and then search for knockoffs. For a few bucks more you can also get their hook add-on and water changes become hands free.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC

The one I'm looking into is this one 25 Foot - Python No Spill Clean and Fill Aquarium Maintenance System https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000255NXC/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_l-bIub0QMP65T

My thoughts going down your list...

> Duel Bulb 120v Florescent light fixture

Depending on the plants you select and the blubs in the fixture you may not have enough lighting. I would do 2 things, do some research on the light bulbs to get a rough idea of why kind of plays they can support. Then be sure to buy those types of plants.

> Heaters

Start with the 50W while the tank is cycling, depending on brand effectiveness the 100 might be to much.

> Prime

It's great stuff, cheap and highly concentrated so read the directions on this.

> Aqueon water conditioner

Expensive version of prime. I used to use it before I found prime, it works just fine. Just more expensive to buy.

> Siphon thingy

Python most pet stores have them too. There is no discussion on this point, no bucket, no carrying, no mess. Get. A. Python. (or similarly designed replacement)

>Canister Filter

The filter you have is sufficient. A canister would be overkill. 30g is right on the border between power filter and a canister land. Unless you really don't like looking at it, I'd just stick with what you have.

This is the one I have. http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

There is also a 50ft model.

These things are amazing.
(corporate shill here btw)

this kind, hooks up to a sink:

​

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

Sorry I'm at work but this is a Python siphon

Is that a... gasp... bucket?!?! You really need to get yourself a Python.

Auto siphoning, simple twist on the faucet to go from siphon to refilling, a switch to control siphon strength/refill speed... Seriously, if you have a tank over 10g it's worth the price 100 times over.

So, ich hab noch mal ein paar Fragen:

1.) Kannst du einen Mulmsauger empfehlen, der auch für Wasserwechsel taugt (so wie der hier z. B.)?

2.) Für das Einfahren werde ich ja Ammoniak brauchen. Wäre diese 25% Ammoniak Lösung unbedenklich? Die restlichen 75% sind bloß Wasser.

3.) Ich hatte ja eigentlich vor mit so 10x Garnelen anzufangen. Aber nach dem Einfahren werde ich ja Tiere brauchen, die genügend Ammoniak produzieren, um die Bakterien am Leben zu halten, korrekt? Garnelen scheinen aber nur eine sehr geringe Bio-Last zu verursachen (weniger sogar als manche Schnecken). Heißt das dann es bleiben eben nur so viele Bakterien am Leben, wie die Garnelen Bio-Last produzieren? Müsste ich weiter Ammoniak hinzugeben? Oder sollte ich vielleicht doch einfach gleich mit genügend Fischen anfangen? Etwas verwirrend das ganze...

or one of these bad boys!

http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1458013348&sr=8-1&keywords=aquarium+python

There is a product called the python, which is a siphon that has an adaptor for your sink!

Link: https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

Not to one up you, but your right.

I only use hose to rinse and wash. Anything that becomes beer is from Deer Park, until I get a whole house filter.

What I do recommend is this contraption
I have found so many good uses for this thing, but brewing seems to be where it just shines. Its great for cleaning in kegs, and other equipment.

It breaks in parts, so I use the short piece hooked up to the sink unless I need to siphon.

I have a 30 gallon mixing jug in my closet which is in my kitchen. I would suggest looking for closets/end of hallways/corners where you can keep a mixing station that's out of sight. I just use a pump to get me about 5m across the kitchen. You'll need a more powerful pump to get you your 15m but that'll take some experimentation. To take water out I just use a Python and there are extensions available.

If you don't have one, invest in a Python; They make water changes so much more convenient.

If it's hard to do a water change.. you're doing it wrong.

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

After a water change you'd be all set.

https://www.amazon.com/Python-13B-Aquarium-Replacement-Pump/dp/B000255NVE/ref=pd_sim_199_4/138-8997213-9091558?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000255NVE&pd_rd_r=3c0178fd-341d-48c0-a546-42ec345bba94&pd_rd_w=5sNDE&pd_rd_wg=yC2Ka&pf_rd_p=5c130f77-a5ef-4ffd-9db1-c29a354f52f9&pf_rd_r=AJWMGK8F8W3STDJKSEQG&psc=1&refRID=AJWMGK8F8W3STDJKSEQG

So this is the piece I bought. I don't have a faucet adapter but that's not really an issue. The problem is that I thought I could just stick my tubing into the hose end of this pump. However, water would not flow down the tubing and into the bucket and instead overflowed in the pump. I was looking at the python water maintenance system, which is what this pump is supposed to be for

https://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=pd_bxgy_199_img_3/138-8997213-9091558?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000255NXC&pd_rd_r=b39db634-f205-4686-bb9f-04e1b11fc6ff&pd_rd_w=xIXTj&pd_rd_wg=uu2Na&pf_rd_p=a2006322-0bc0-4db9-a08e-d168c18ce6f0&pf_rd_r=7TNQW6ZGBF3YF5JCYMVX&psc=1&refRID=7TNQW6ZGBF3YF5JCYMVX

And I noticed that there is a little component at the end of the tubing (opposite end of the vacuum) that supposedly screws onto the hose end of the pump and brings water to the tubing. I believe that it's called a tubing adapter? Not sure.

Is it possible through a series of adapters to connect this kind of sink hose to a garden hose? I'm trying to connect this kind of sink to this product:

http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC

https://imgur.com/a/SYoot

Here is the desktop version of your link

If you want to make water changes a breeze, ditch the bucket and get a python system. You'll never go back. python on Amazon

Hmm yeah perhaps I'm mistaken then. For the counterpart, does the sink water run directly into the tank with this? http://www.amazon.com/25-Foot-Python-Aquarium-Maintenance/dp/B000255NXC/ref=pd_bxgy_petsupplies_text_y

I use a tube siphon to get water from the tank, though haven't gone directly into a sink or anything. I don't mind the bucket for taking water out, it's putting it back in where it's a tad daunting.

Fishkeeping can be really high effort or really low effort, depending on the animals you choose, the tank size you choose, the filter size you choose, and how much cash you're willing to shell out.

I have several tanks, and my largest tank is definitely the easiest to maintain (my Python does all the heavy lifting for me). My smallest, my ten-gallon, is definitely the most energy (gotta keep that sand clean, goddamn it), but even that one isn't more than maybe 15 minutes every couple days.

My recommendation to keep everything low-energy: pick easy creatures to care for and do not overstock. Get a GOOD filter, with way more filtration than you need. If you're starting out with the right stocking and equipment, everything else will be easier. AqAdvisor is a good resource for a beginner who is trying to figure out stocking stuff. Aquarium Wiki also has good info on stocking a 10-gallon.

I use a water change kit, like the Python. Or I'll put a bucket under my kitchen sink faucet and run the pump out of the bucket as the faucet fill it.

Unfortunately turtle poop is sometimes too big to be picked up by a gravel vacuum :( I use one too, the biggest one the pet store has, and it'll get little pieces but I still scoop up larger pieces (and shell scutes that have shed) with an old fish net. My gravel vac now is mostly used for emptying the tank into buckets. People recommend these for bucket-less easy water changes though.

And yep, I use sand! A little bit of sand has gotten into my filter but that's mostly when I'm too impatient to let the sand settle before turning the filter back on after cleanings. It's important when you first get sand to wash it really well in a bucket to rinse out all the finer particles ("dust") that don't settle quickly. If you rinse it well enough it won't cloud the tank except for a little while after first adding it. I keep my filter intake a few inches above the sand. A little bit of sand got into my filter's motor and I was able to get it out. I use Fluval and you can buy new parts for their filters, so if I broke the motor I'd have to only replace that instead of a whole new filter. I don't know about other brands, but that gave me a little peace of mind about the sand.

And yeah, turtles are little bulldozers!!

I just switched to using a python and I love it. No buckets, no manual syphons, just hook it up to your sink and follow the directions.

That's called a faucet.

You can look into a python system. It uses the faucet. Here is one on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Python-Aquarium-Maintenance-System-50-Feet/dp/B000255NXC/147-5731642-4011262