#181 in Industrial & Scientific
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Reddit mentions of 3M Aluminum Foil Tape 3381, 1.88" x 50 yd, 2.7 mil, Silver, HVAC, Sealing and Patching, Moisture Barrier, Cold Weather, Air Ducts, Foam Sheathing Boards, Insulation, Metal Repair, 051111078129

Sentiment score: 5
Reddit mentions: 10

We found 10 Reddit mentions of 3M Aluminum Foil Tape 3381, 1.88" x 50 yd, 2.7 mil, Silver, HVAC, Sealing and Patching, Moisture Barrier, Cold Weather, Air Ducts, Foam Sheathing Boards, Insulation, Metal Repair, 051111078129. Here are the top ones.

3M Aluminum Foil Tape 3381, 1.88
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    Features:
  • COLD WEATHER: 1. 4 mil aluminum foil backing (2. 7 mil total thickness) coated with a pressure sensitive, cold-weather, acrylic adhesive system (-30F to 250F)
  • EXCELS IN HUMIDITY: Designed for cold weather conditions and excels in demanding temperature and humidity applications
  • MOISTURE BARRIER: Excellent barrier against moisture, dust, flame and certain chemicals
  • UV RESISTANT: Providing good performance and durability in various environments
  • CONFORMABLE: Malleable foil is conformable, capable of adhering to irregular surfaces
  • APPLICATIONS: sealing foil faced foam sheathing boards, reflective insulation materials, duct wraps and residential insulation batts
Specs:
ColorSilver
Height6 Inches
Length2 Inches
Number of items1
Size1.88 in x 50 yd
Width6 Inches

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Found 10 comments on 3M Aluminum Foil Tape 3381, 1.88" x 50 yd, 2.7 mil, Silver, HVAC, Sealing and Patching, Moisture Barrier, Cold Weather, Air Ducts, Foam Sheathing Boards, Insulation, Metal Repair, 051111078129:

u/agoristbastard · 7 pointsr/microgrowery

Hey, I JUST came off building a setup and it cost me $750 total. We have 3 plants in there right now. I have the entire list with amazon links or store suggestions.

Item| Price | Where To Buy
---|---|----
Tent| $95| We bought this one, I don't know if it's worth spending a lot on anything more expensive. For a smaller option I just got a second with good reviews but can't vouch for it yet.
Lights/Hood/Ballast| $140| I got the 600W set, but 400W would make cooling MUCH easier and still get a big yield. For LEDs at similar price, Viparspectra 300W x2 or a single 600W eliminates need for extra cooling potentially (not included here, we used fans from around the house)
ph Test+Control Kit | $25| GET THIS. The water must be pH'd properly for your babies' health.
Cloth Pots| $20 | These are better for aeration, water flow, training, etc. Cheap and reusable too.
Nutrients | $50 | I got the Fox Farms Trio, but there are many good options out there.
Fan + Filter | $150 | This is huge and might be overkill for you. Make sure whatever you get fits your tent vents (This one fits the Apollo tent above with 6" vents).
Ducting | $20 | Connect fan to filter, to tent, to wherever. Might want multiple sizes, check tent vent sizes.
Foil Tape, Metallic | $10 | Here. Metal Duct tape is best duct tape.
Fan Speed Controller | $20 | Useful for if you do get a fan that is slightly overkill!
Fox Farms Ocean Forest | $15 - $40 | You can buy it online and I did for my first 3 bags....then I found it in a local store for $15. There is some controversy with FF lately, it's not organic FYI. There are tutorials on making your own soil if you care, but I like this because I didn't have to use nutes for 3-4 weeks.
Humidifier | $30 | This is the exact one I have. We're in winter so I need it to keep humidity up, you may not.
Dehumidifier | $40 | There are plenty for this much. You may not need this either.
Cal-Mag | $20 | I haven't needed it yet but it's best to have on hand if you do!
Seeds | $75 | I bought from Attitude, chose stealth, and bought like 15 seeds?, so it was expensive. You can get seeds for less.
Jiffy Pellets | $10 | Used to start seeds. There are other options.
Total | $745 | If you buy all this stuff, you have potentially even more than you need to get started, with room for 3-4x more plants than these boxes, and with nutrients to last you for a long long time!

Hope this helps! I'd hate to see you drop so much on it when you don't need to at all.

u/kclo4 · 5 pointsr/fireworks

I do a back yard show too and I find the board method too cumbersome. I now use the duct tape/bag/stake method.

  1. Duct tape: You've googled 4 cakes that you could hypothetically stick together because they "jive well". Duct tape them together with the fuses facing outward. Fuse so they all go off at once, or fuse in series. Use different speeds to accomplish your goal. You now have the stability of four cakes all in one. Gluing to a board is too much effort for me.
  2. Bag: get a garbage bag over the whole thing once fused and you have a waterproof cake pod ready to go.
  3. Stake: (IMO optional) Wrap Duct tape around the bag and stake to the ground for added stability

    Not a fan of roman candles. Dont waste your money.

    Make sure you test your fuse and know what speed it burns. My white fuse burns super fast. My green fuse burns faster than my yellow. My yellow burns much faster than the Pink. The pink is slower than the Shiny green fuse. That wasn't always the case. My green fuse was always the slowest and yellow was the fastest.

    I also don't like the idea of reloading shells during the show. If you must, you can prep them by zip tying the fuses together in groups of 8 or so. Throw 8 in the tubes and light the bunch. Dont put your head over any part. Stick the rest of prepped shells in a ready box. A ready box is designed so it cannot be left open. You lift up the lid, grab a bunch, the box has a string so that closes itself after opening

    Invest in zip ties and metal tape. Use this to tie your fuse together.

    https://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B00A7I5L86

    https://www.amazon.com/Aviditi-CT422E-Nylon-Length-Purple/dp/B00DY98M1I/ref=sr_1_3?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1525752899&sr=1-3&keywords=4%22+zip+ties

    I cant begin to tell you how much I love these fuse cutters. This tool changed my fuse cutting life. I spit on scissors now.

    https://www.amazon.com/Craftsman-Edge-Utility-Cutter-9-37309/dp/B0037IX2BG/ref=sr_1_12?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1525752808&sr=1-12&keywords=handi+cut

    This fuse igniter will change your life. Lighters might as well be flint. Thats how next gen this is. Get some propane or MAPP

    https://www.amazon.com/Bernzomatic-TS4000-Trigger-Start-Torch/dp/B00008ZA09/ref=sr_1_3?s=office-products&ie=UTF8&qid=1525753004&sr=8-3&keywords=berzomatic

    This headlamp makes flashlights a thing of the past and changes your life. Make sure you get one that doesnt have a third strap along the top. If youre not using it you can wear your headlamp on your neck and not lose it.

    https://www.amazon.com/Black-Diamond-Spot-Headlamp-Octane/dp/B06W9HPY25/ref=sr_1_6_twc-13d22461-ce_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1525753147&sr=8-6-acs&keywords=head+lamp&content_id=13d22461-ceea-426c-b620-9fe11db17513&ascsubtag=13d22461-ceea-426c-b620-9fe11db17513&tag=ospsearch-20&widget_name=expert_recommendation&content_provider=osp&ingress=search&content_type=story

    Also invest some money in some eye and ear protection. I can't tell you how many times I went to bed with a "reeee sound" in my ears, and have gotten pyro shit in my eyes.

    Build yourself some real racks if you're up for it. I just recently built myself some and it was a snap.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-p7J4HV4Gak
u/slap- · 3 pointsr/1022

I would take it apart and see what the issue is, it may just be a loose piece of wood from the stock stuck in there. You may be able to see the spot that it's pivoting on, it's probably a little smoother or shinier that the area around it. Try sanding that area down a bit.

If you can't see anything like that I know people use foil tape to tighten up the receiver area. It'll last a lot longer than paper.

Or upgrade to a new stock. The Magpul Hunter X-22 is nice, I didn't care for the Hogue overmolded.

Or talk to Ruger about it and see what they say.

u/arizona-lad · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Damn, too bad. It's too late now, but if there should ever be a next time, opt for air-tight fixtures, or seal them with metal tape before they are installed.

With the increasing popularity of the ultra thin panel LEDs, cans will drop out of favor in the next five years or so. They are easy to install, and do not affect the insulation envelope.

For right now, can you seal from the inside of the can? If so, use this:

https://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B00A7I5L86

u/synacl1 · 1 pointr/leopardgeckos

I have the Zoo Med Small UTH and thermostat on my 20 gal long tank 12"W x 30"L and the warm area is only about 6" around the center of the mat. I plan to add a second of the same mat next to it. I came from a 10 gal tank 10"W x 20"L and the small mat would heat about 80% of the tank to my warm temp target (too much). If I had the larger tank to start I would have gotten the med pad. If you don't have a thermostat I would definitely recommend it. I used aluminum duct tape to re-attach the pad which worked well.
EDIT: added some links

u/LazyGrower · 1 pointr/microgrowery

I was typing up my list of shit for my second grow. Lets see if I got my Reddit Formatting Correct. :)

The Details

Seeds

u/OathOfFeanor · 1 pointr/cableporn

I am not even kidding; you need to buy some of this: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B00A7I5L86

Use it to re-do that ventilation system. It is not safe to use "duct tape" for exhaust ventilation. The adhesive can melt, severing the exhaust and causing you to vent hot air into the room with your equipment.

Source: Got the temperature alarm text messages RIGHT after I ordered and paid for my margarita one Friday.

PS - Good work on the cleanup! Sorry to make more for ya :p

u/B25urgandy · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

Those ducts look like they were masticed which is perfect. This was the product I was talking about: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Frost-King-0-125-in-Foam-Plumbing-Pipe-Wrap-Insulation/1081449

One side is sticky, but being out and exposed to the elements might take its toll.

My suggestion is this, I warn it will take some work but it will be very worth it, and not that expensive while yeilding the best r-value bang for buck:

Get some foam board adhesive: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Loctite-PL-300-10-fl-oz-Foamboard-Adhesive-1421941/202020476

And get some sheets of foam board: https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kingspan-Insulation-Common-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-ft-Actual-2-in-x-4-ft-x-8-Feet-R-10-Unfaced-Polystyrene-Foam-Board-Insulation/999972968

Your outside layer of foam board should be this: https://www.menards.com/main/building-materials/insulation/foam-board-insulation/johns-manville-foil-faced-polyiso-foam-insulation-4-x-8/w-n5075/p-1444438921381.htm

To start you should verify 100% that those duct joints are masticed good, and I mean good, all the joints should be full of it and no holes, no pinholes even. if not get this: https://www.amazon.com/Design-Polymerics-Mastic-Sealant-0-50-Gallon/dp/B0085UZBE2

Once they are 100% sealed you can start. IF you want layers of foam board (more r-value the better) the best thing you can do is use an unfaced foam board for your layers. Your outer layer should be the foil faced foam board. To attach your foam board to your ducts use the duct adhesive, you MUST use this specifically, other adhesives can degrade and "eat away" the foam and eventually the adhesive will fail and it will fall off. Obviously you will need to cut the foam board to spec to fit on the ducting. USe the adhesive to attach it to the ductwork, foil face out. You will then want to cover the seams with silicon or foil faced duct work tape, not duck tape. IF you want additional security for them to hold and not fall off or fly off with wind you can use a metal band strap. or self tapping screws with large zinc washers

metal duct tape: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Foil-Tape-3381-Silver/dp/B00A7I5L86/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=speed+tape&qid=1551224134&s=gateway&sr=8-6

metal strapping: https://www.amazon.com/DIVERSITECH-710-001-Galvanized-Metallic-Strap/dp/B00CD6WON0/ref=sr_1_8?keywords=metal+strapping&qid=1551224293&s=gateway&sr=8-8

metal strapping tension locks: https://www.amazon.com/Tension-Triglides-Webbing-Strapping-Adjustor/dp/B01JG09244/ref=sr_1_17?keywords=metal+strapping&qid=1551224293&s=gateway&sr=8-17


self tapping screws (need to be long enough to go through foam AND the metal duct work): https://www.amazon.com/Self-Drilling-Plated-Finish-Undercut-Phillips/dp/B00GYK2S7I/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=3+inch+self+tapping+screws&qid=1551224214&s=gateway&sr=8-3

Now since its outside the air inside will eventually still change to the outside temperature, but not as fast and less bleed off of temperature in the ductwork due to outside ambient temperature making the ductwork sheathing the same temperature.

u/7HR4SH3R · 1 pointr/CableManagement

It's a two person job, but my house is laid out pretty well so I had access to most vents easily.

My recommendations are:

-Feed cables down hill as much as possible, gravity is your friend

-Electrical tape around the end of the cable, to protect the contacts and stop the clip from bending and snapping off or getting hung up

-I had some old household electrical wire laying around so I peeled out about 5 feet of the solid stiff ground wire, then bent a hook on one end to help get into corners and tight spots. A coat hanger would work pretty well too

-There was one point that I had to exit through the side of one of the ducts. I drilled a half inch hole in the side of the duct and used some foil tape to patch the hole back up once the cable was through

-Anywhere the cable exited a duct I wrapped about 6 inches in either direction with a few layers of electrical tape for some added protection

If you had any other questions I'd be glad to help!