Reddit mentions of Aeon Labs DSA03202 v1 - Z-Wave Minimote

Zwave remote, $20. Even comes with three other buttons for free!

I got this done in fewer steps with my Echo. It should work the same on Google Home since you're interfacing with Samsung SmartThings.

For the longest time I was trying to find a WiFi-controlled switch, and I found it with the WeMo Maker. I didn't want to go the RPi route, but certainly that makes a lot of sense.

Here's the complete list of what you'll need for my method.

-WeMo Maker
-Samsung SmartThings hub (no device needed since we'll make a virtual switch)
-IFTTT
-Echo/Google Home

1. Set up the Wemo maker to work with your fireplace. I'm not an electrician, but my gas fireplace previously used an RF-controlled momentary switch. It's just two red wires, when held together, that starts the flame. I put those wires into the switch controller of the WeMo maker and was immediately able to control the fireplace with the switch.
   
   
2. Create a new Virtual Switch in SmartThings (Google how to do it, it's not difficult), and call it "Fireplace"
   
   
3. Connect IFTTT to your WeMo and SmartThings account. Use IFTTT to have the SmartThings virtual switch turn on the WeMo Maker. Confirm it works.
   
   
4. Use the Alexa app to "discover devices" which should find the SmartThings virtual switch "Fireplace"
   
   
5. Boom: saying "Alexa, fireplace on" or "Alexa, fireplace off" works!
   
   Bonus! I bought a cheap Z-wave remote, interfaced it with SmartThings, and had it toggle the virtual switch. So I can put one of these remotes in my bedroom near my nightstand and when I wake up in the morning, hit the button and boom, fire is warming up. You can have multiple removes that do this same thing. My wife hates talking to my Echo (she refuses to talk to a cylindrical object--can someone give her a pep talk lol), so the remote is a good backup for her to use. This is what I used:
   
   https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480279272&sr=8-1&keywords=aeon+minimote
   
   Happy to answer any questions about this method :)

The Lutron Connected Bulb Remote will do what you want for zigbee and z-wave lighting/switches etc.

As will the Aeotec Minimote with z-wave bulbs/switches/dimmers.

www.gocontrol.com/detail.php?productId=12

I have no personal experience with this particular device but I do use go control door/window sensors without issue.

Another option, over $100 spendy! http://www.zwaveproducts.com/shop/z-wave-lighting/dimmer-switches/battery-operated-z-wave-dimmer-switch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00KU7ERAW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498307662&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=zwave+remote+control&dpPl=1&dpID=41TL10uhQxL&ref=plSrch

This is what I use to control Caitlin fans and lights in the house. Four buttons capable of two commands each. Light control and fan control in a small package. This is one of the best zwave deals out there.

I'm not familiar with Wink, but seeing as how it's Z-wave what about this or this?

For my apartment, I you utilize two solutions to almost solve this problem. Neither one is perfect but for controlling rooms with only hue bulbs I use the hue dimmer switch. Those work nicely because the plate they come with is about the right size to replace a regular switch, but they only control Hue bulbs. For other rooms that have other lighting solutions, I have attached some Aeon Minimotes to the wall. In those rooms, I don't have light switches that need to be in any position, but you could always rewire them to bypass the switches and build some custom mounting solutions for the,

You can also get v1 of this remote for way cheaper: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KU7ERAW

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW/ref=pd_lpo_60_lp_t_4?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=G2SXARB5Y28ZCE1JVATZ

So this is what I did in a similar situation.

First I replaced the switch that actually powers the lights with this GoControl switch. This will make it "smart" and you can the control it with accessory switches.

The next thing you will need to do is install the Accessory Switch where you want to be able to control the light from. If you want to still control your outlets youll need to replace the box with a 2 gang box. If you do not want to control your outlets anymore you could simply wire them to power on all the time and replace the old switch with this one. This switch just needs 120v power to it to run.

Once you have the accessory switch in you need to tell it what master switch to control. You do this with an Aeon Minimote.

There may be other ways of doing what you are looking for, but this worked for me. Let me know if you have any follow up questions.

I'm assuming you don't already have a switch in the place you'd like to add one? In that case, a zwave remote is your best bet. If you want something that looks like it belongs on a wal, this would be a good option. If you just want a cheap solution, a minimote would also work.

https://www.amazon.com/Cooper-Wiring-Devices-RF9500AW-Operated/dp/B004I7YSVI

But you need some controller to program it, possibly only a minimote. Or you could just use the minimote, stick it to the wall.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW/

I am also looking for something very similar, except I would like it to be powered off of 120v AC. Right now I am using Aeon Minimote spliced together with an addon remote switch.

The addon remote switch is essentially just a button that looks like a light switch. I soldered the button from that to one of the buttons on the Aeon Minimote, so when I push the remote switch button it is the same as pressing the Aeon Minimote button.

The minimote is small already, but you can remote the casing so it can fit under other switches in the gang box, as well as remove the unnecessary parts of the remote switch that make it hook into the standard 120v lines like a normal light switch.

I have two problems with this solution which is why I am still looking for a better solution:

1. It is battery powered so I will need to take it out and recharge it every ~4-6 months.
   
2. It seems to not register the 1st push most of the time, which is pretty annoying and has low WAF. I usually need to wait a second to see if the lights respond, or push once and push and hold which I have mapped to full brightness.
   This may be a problem with my remote, or a signal strength/connection issue since the remote is inside the metal gang box inside the wall.
   
   
   I am trying to control Hue lights (on/off) with a normal looking light switch, and am open to other ideas if people have them. I figure if I can fix the connection issue, I will live with them being battery powered.

https://shop.smartthings.com/#!/products/ge-in-wall-on-slash-off-switch

plus

https://shop.smartthings.com/#!/products/aeon-labs-minimote

Way cheaper if you buy them from Amazon, of course:

https://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW

If you use the switches I mentioned in my other comment then you can use any Z-Wave remote to control the fan. The Aeotec Minimote is a popular choice. Just keep in mind that those switches aren't compatible with the manufacturer's RF module, so you'll need to remove that from the fan's canopy.

Minimote can be found for as low as $13 on sale

Currently $18+ on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW/

Lowes has the Iris single button on sale for $20

I've been using these https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW/ref=pd_lpo_60_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=HDB1DN7CA5ADZT1VSKQH They aren't as sexy looking at the Lutron switches you have in your post, but these have a battery so don't require any sort of wiring and works fine with the Smartthings hub.

These zwave minimotes are pretty nice. They work well with SmartThings. Also like them because they're rechargeable.

I also use a bunch of hacked dash buttons.

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1541635285&sr=8-2&keywords=minimote&dpID=41qVOaM7nvL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch


Is that the minimote?

You could try fishing a neutral wire from the ceiling fixturewall outlet to the switchbox. I've done it in my house, but I don't know if I would try it in an apartment.

Alternative products: Since this switch controls an outlet, it's against code to use a dimmer switch on it. And dimmer switches are the only "smart" products I'm aware of that can operate without a neutral.

You're probably better off replacing the wall outlet with a smart outlet or any smart wall wart. Here's GE's in-wall smart outlet since you seem to be leaning toward zwave already.

You can control that smart outlet with something like GE's wall controller or velcro an aeotec minimote to the wall and use that. Even better - you could use an Amazon Echo for control - I rarely physically interact with smart switches since I got a modicum of automation running and a few Echos around the house for voice control.

You have a few options, you can use traditional z-wave devices and then pair them to a remote like the Aeon Labs minimote and operate them that way (no hub required). I also discovered that GE has a bluetooth switch that you can program and operate remotely with your phone but looks like you don't want to use a phone.

Edit: as /u/gurase mentioned Lutron has a system that will work too.

I'd suggest:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2/

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW/

and if you get a hub later, you can still use these devices so that is a plus.

Look on Amazon. They have zwave remotes for $20

minimote

Best way I can think of would be to get a scene controller like this or a remote like this or this. Just note that you'll need to use another hub to control them, whether it is Home Assistant with a uzb stick, smartthings, wink, or something else. Other than that, you could stick a cheap tablet on the wall and just have the LIFX app running constantly.

EDIT: I see that is sounds like you haven't actually purchased the LIFX bulbs yet. If that's true you may just want to go with Philips Hue and add a Hue Tap instead. Kinda ugly but it's a much easier setup. Hue is a lot cheaper than LIFX anyway if you want more than 1 bulb

I use this.

Aeon Labs DSA03202 v1 - Z-Wave Minimote https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KU7ERAW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_AIuBybXTQB3DT

Works well with smart things.