Reddit mentions of APC UPS, 425VA UPS Battery Backup Surge Protector, BE425M Backup Battery Power Supply, Back-UPS Series

my paranoid safety senses are tingling

i would strongly suggest investigating what is cutting your power so consistently. my first thought is about circuit breakers tripping, but you'd probably know if someone had to flip them back on all the time. tally up all devices on the problematic home circuit. look at the labels for devices that are actively pulling power at any given time and make sure the total "output current" does not exceed preferably 80% of your circuit's rated ampacity (typically 15 amps in the US). if it's a whole house outage, i'd get professional help because this could potentially become a fire hazard

if someone can back up their claims on why they think a PSU can be damaged by its power dropping, i'd be interested in hearing it. i personally don't believe so. i DO believe though that when your OS is performing a task (even if you have no idea it's going on), anything stored in system memory or CPU cache will be instantly deleted and anything it was working on will not exist anymore. if your system is acting up now, it could be that it has happened enough times to become noticeable. at this point, you may want to reinstall your OS the fully manual way (not through windows 10's "refresh this pc" option)

and as someone else has already said, buy an uninterruptible power supply (UPS) for your PC and plug it and your monitor into the battery side. it will prevent power losses from affecting your system for some minutes after the outage, so you can save and shutdown until power is restored

I have to disagree with this deal. 84VA is like nothing, even though it's only $30. In contrast, this $43 unit gives 425VA.

If you have outages that frequently, you should use one of these. It's not good for your computer or PS4 to have those surges all the time.

That sounds like an incredible pain in the ass.

This would probably help your situation though. $50 could solve a whole lot of headaches.

if you don't actually care about the U part of the UPS, one can be had for like $40

Place a small UPS between the TP-Link HS110 and your computer. When you accidentally turn the HS110 off, your computer will shut down gracefully.

It's like $40 on sale for a little APC 425 power-strip-style UPS; I don't understand why more people don't buy them and put then everywhere. APC Even warranties equipment connected to the UPS from voltage transients and surges, up to something crazy like $75,000.

I dont know anything about them. Would this be sufficient?

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDC236Q/ref=twister_B07QYXBZ95?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

What I have is basically this, https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Back-UPS-BE425M/dp/B01HDC236Q/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=apc+modem&qid=1565154753&s=electronics&sr=1-3 I bought it when it was the year end model and is white. Apparently it is not as cool as the black one, but I paid like $30 for it, maybe $25, I am not sure. But any how it keeps my cable modem online for about 3-4 hours. Supposedly at least. I think the most I have had it tested was about 2 hours. But anyhow for $25 its well worth it for me. I have an apc on my desktop that I work from, so they kind of work in tandem.

Edit:

Oh wow I looked it up because I bought it off amazon. This is what I bought. https://i.imgur.com/nEFgdZU.png which apparently now is worth worth $100 to some people, https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NTQYUA8/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HDC236Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's got enough juice to run the pi for an hour or two, depending on how many hard drives you also have plugged in. It also has a mode to silence the alarm until the battery is almost dead so it doesn't wake you up in the middle of the night until it's really necessary.

I bought this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HDC236Q/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the tankless water heater and my water softener plugged into it. The rechargeable battery (or capacitor) that maintains the system state on the water softener failed. Every time the power flicked off, even for a brief moment, the water softener would regenerate. It was recommended by my water softener installer that it would be much less expensive to use the UPS than to replace the system board. Since both systems are near each other, it was easy to plug both systems into the UPS.

I think you're missing what 3DRogue is saying. Buy one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HDC236Q


It's a battery backup that will keep feeding power to your printer in the event of a power failure. Even if you have the option to resume, sometimes the results are quite disappointing. I had this exact thing happen to me and that's why I purchased the item above.

Seems like an inexpensive UPS like this would be better suited for your needs.

APC Back-UPS 425VA UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector (BE425M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDC236Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_cvqhqhXBnvRwa

Its worth the money. I recently bought one because this same crap happened to me. Had to redownload my game and that took about 10hrs. If you already have a power surge protection you can still use that + this to give you some time to log out of the game and save your ps4 from surges. It pays for itself in the long run.

Next is a charging station.

Bestand Charging Station for Playstation 4/Dualshock 4 Wireless Controller,with Dual USB HUB Charger Ports https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LRPX7E2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_LBo56YWhDQHZ8

I still use it religiously and its great. It really is worth the buck.

Couple from APC, don't have these myself but I do have a pile of other APC USP that I'm very happy with.

https://smile.amazon.com/APC-Back-UPS-Connect-BGE90M-Charging/dp/B00NTQYUA8/ref=sr_1_2

The USB ports on the one above are interesting. 2.5 Amp total, 1.5 top, 1.0 bottom, so it could power a lightly loaded Pi3 and a Pi0w.

For a bit more power to keep your modem, router and Pi(s) alive this isn't bad.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01HDC236Q/ref=psdc_764572_t1_B0019804U8?th=1

The http://www.apc.com site has full specs and manuals for these.

I'd recommend getting a small UPS for this purpose. APC makes them for things such as routers, modems, and other low-power devices.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDC236Q/

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NTQYUA8/

> the outlet kept tripping so I replaced the battery back up per customer services suggestion


Could try something like this

I have the previous gen of this on all my Eeros. Has been great when we’ve had the occasional outage.

APC UPS Battery Backup & Surge Protector, 425VA, APC Back-UPS (BE425M) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HDC236Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_KSgyDbJH4PKWD

Woah,

Looks like there are a lot more options these days than when I was gigging. And 'portable' no longer means ~25lbs.

You can get an inexpensive Battery backup to plug the printer into if your home has power fluctuations that could cause the print to stop. I run an 400VA APC UPS like the one at the link below on my printers.


https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-Back-UPS-BE425M/dp/B01HDC236Q/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=apc+ups+425&qid=1570291301&sprefix=apc+ups+425&sr=8-3

Other than that, restart the print or measure the print and re-slice the portion that didn’t print and break out the glue.

Multiple routers inline is not the right way to do this.

Ideally it would be something like this:

Cellular connection -> Router -> network switch -> wireless access point(s) -> devices in the home

You seeing your wireless connection still present just means that your wireless broadcasting device that you're connected to (ie. the last wireless router) is still operating. The drop of the internet connection points (usually) at the internet connection itself - in your case, the cellular connection.

Aside from that, you can do a couple other things. Check to make sure the Netgear LB1120 has the latest firmware available (check Netgear's site for this) and put each of the critical network devices on a battery backup (UPS). You can pickup a basic unit for a low cost. It isn't enough for a gaming PC, but its plenty for just your cellular device and the router too. This will help stabilize the power getting to the device and remove it as a potential issue.

https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-BackUPS-BE425M/dp/B01HDC236Q/

Also, on the top of the Netgear, it has LEDs that show your cellular signal strength. When the internet is being crappy, head over and look at the signal LEDs. If the signal is 2 bars or less, then you'd need to contact AT&T and inform them of the issue. If you have 3+ LEDs illuminated, then signal isn't likely to be the issue. At that point, put your hand on the Netgear device - see if it feels hot. It is does, then it might be smart to move it to a darker/cooler location.

It goes without saying that cellular devices need to be near open windows for better connections. So, a balance of a cool, but good visiblilty location needs to be practiced.

There is an app for mobile phones (yes on Android, not sure about iOS) called OpenSignal. It contains a 'compass' feature. You could walk around and find the direction of the best/strongest cellular signal - you might want to look into that too.

https://www.amazon.com/APC-Battery-Protector-BackUPS-BE425M/dp/B01HDC236Q