Best headphone amps according to Reddit

Reddit mentions of AudioQuest DragonFly Black v1.5 Plug-in USB DAC + Preamp + Headphone Amp

Sentiment score: 18
Reddit mentions: 37

We found 37 Reddit mentions of AudioQuest DragonFly Black v1.5 Plug-in USB DAC + Preamp + Headphone Amp. Here are the top ones.

    Features:
  • 32-bit ESS 9010 Sabre DAC
  • Offering tremendously enhanced sound, higher value, and significantly lower power consumption than the original award-winning DragonFly
  • Works with Apple and Android phones and tablets when paired with a simple adapter
  • This versatile DAC improves everything detail, transparency, immediacy, richness, tone associated with your music
  • Plays everything from MP3s to 24-bit/96kHz high-resolution files
  • Connector type: USB 2.0
Specs:
ColorBlack
Height1.181102361 Inches
Length2.362204722 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateJune 2016
Weight0.21875 Pounds
Width0.787401574 Inches
#9 of 208

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Found 37 comments on AudioQuest DragonFly Black v1.5 Plug-in USB DAC + Preamp + Headphone Amp:

u/mpachi · 3 pointsr/Dell

Depends what where you want the audio out.

For the speakers?
not much i can help you there, as i disable the speakers in the bios

For headphones?
The noise floor on the 3.5mm port on the laptop is the worst, if you have sensitive iems you will always hear it.
instead you need to grab a usb dac like

dragonfly

  • 24bit/96hz
  • usb only
  • $124.88

    earstudio

  • 16bit/48hz (on usb) up to 24bit/96hz(BT ldac)
  • BT/USB
  • has both balanced and unbalanced outputs
  • $99

    btr3

  • 16bit/48hz (on usb) up to 24bit/96hz(BT ldac)
  • USB/BT
  • $69

    m6

  • 384kHz/32bit(usb)
  • BT/USB/Onboard (its it own music player)
  • $99.99

    any of these will give you great sound from whatever headphones you have
u/Bacon_Grenades · 3 pointsr/buildmeapc

I've got two builds ready for you right now. I went with a mITX form factor because it's smaller size should be more convenient, and I chose a black and white color scheme. The motherboard also has built in WiFi.


I wasn't sure how serious you are about your video recording, so I included enough hdd space for professional use. They've also got an ssd for your OS and some games.


The only difference between the two is that one has an i7-6700 and the other has an i5-6600. These should both be plenty for gaming, but the I7 has hyperthreading which would improve rendering times a lot, and the i5 is cheaper so that you could also afford to throw in a dac.


If you are really serious about video editing and recording I'd go for the i7, but if it's more of a hobby the i5 should be fine.


The onboard audio on the motherboard is okay. It's not the best, but it's not the worst. If you go for the i7 you could probably deal with it, but if you choose the cheaper i5 I'd recommend getting a dac to use with your e12, such as a dragonfly black


Here's the actual builds:


i5: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant


i7: PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant


I hope I could help.

u/Blais_Of_Glory · 3 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

What's your budget? Where do you live? What type of music do you listen to? Are you looking for headphones that can be used for gaming? Do you need a mic with the headphones? What is the music coming from? For example, if you're listening to music through your computer and your headphones are connected to the computer, you would be better off getting a DAC and amp combo (something like the Schiit Fulla/Schiit Fulla on Amazon or FiiO E10K or Audioengine D1 or AudioQuest DragonFly) and then getting better headphones. I personally have tried several different brands and Sennheiser are my favorites. I currently have Sennheiser PC 363D (on Amazon) for gaming, movies, and TV and have the Sennheiser HD 598 SE (on Amazon) for music.

u/baconboyloiter · 3 pointsr/popheads

Right now I am using an audioquest dragonfly black dac, ath m50x headphones, and my macbook pro when I am home and a galaxy s7 and my ath m50x when I am not. I just ordered AKG Pro Audio K702 headphones so that will replace my ath m50x for home use.

u/Rrussell2060 · 2 pointsr/audio

If you don't mind spending some money this is what I would suggest, this will potentially clean up your audio signal and provide more power to your HD598's. AudioQuest - DragonFly Black USB DAC/Headphone Amplifier
by Audioquest
Link: https://amzn.com/B01DP5JHHI

u/N7Spectre77 · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

AudioQuest DragonFly Black

At $99, it's a little more expensive than what you listed, but it will do everything you want. You can get a USB C adapter to use for your phone.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI/ref=sr_1_3?crid=2RGH4GCFHBDOK&keywords=audioquest+dragonfly+black&qid=1554689099&s=electronics&sprefix=audioquest+%2Celectronics%2C147&sr=1-3

u/HulksInvinciblePants · 2 pointsr/headphones
u/jimhatesyou · 2 pointsr/jailbreak

I can't get anything to show up in iFile or Filza. I managed to install CameraConnector on my iOS 10.2 iPhone 6P but the preference bundle is unable to be opened within settings, it needs to be updated.

I have this Samsung USB 3.0 flash drive I just got last week. Plugging it into the CCK directly gives the error message that the devices requires too much power and is incompatible.

For whatever reason, if you use this USB splitter plugged into the CCK and then plug your flash drive into that, it allows you to access the drive...kind of. Your iPhone will automatically launch the Photos app to a tab called Import but nothing will show up if you don't have any photos/videos in a folder called DCIM. I was able to import pictures and videos from the flash drive after I put them within a folder on the drive.

The catch is that you can only import files from the drive in Photos app, you can't watch or view them from the drive. You can only see the thumbnails. And nothing in iFile or Filza works any more. I used the tweak Mounted and also CameraConnector and I got nothing.

Also, I then formatted the drive to HFS+ or whatever and put a video on the drive. My phone reboots after about 10 seconds after plugging it in. This has happened twice now.

PS, this Digital/Analog Converter works for me as long as I have a separate power source for the DAC using another USB splitter that splits the power and data into two separate cables.

Let me know if you have any other questions!

u/shadyinternets · 2 pointsr/BudgetAudiophile

the schiit fulla2 is $99 but does a lot for that price point. http://www.schiit.com/products/fulla-2

it can be used on your computer as a DAC & Amp for headphones, it can be just a DAC/preamp for powered speakers or just another headphone amp too. even has a 2nd usb input for power if your phone/tablet/whatever is low powered USB.

i havent used one yet, but a lot of great reviews out there about it. i actually just ordered one a few minutes ago though, so can finally get personal recommendation or not.



in general there are a lot of options around/in your $70 price range too.

a simple one from Cambridge for $75, comes in several colors too.
https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-DacMagic-Headphone-Titanium/dp/B015JESWQA/ref=pd_sbs_23_26


this is one that has been around awhile and is very popular. it is $99 but
https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-Dragonfly-Black-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B01DP5JHHI/ref=pd_sbs_23_1

the FiiO e10k is another good option at $75. this version comes with some astell & kern/final audio in ears for $80. prob worth the extra $5 for those.
https://smile.amazon.com/Portable-Desktop-Headphone-ICP-AT1000-Headphones/dp/B076DVBNRP/ref=sr_1_12


another fiio, the Q1 which is a bit smaller than the e10k
https://smile.amazon.com/FiiO-Portable-USB-DAC-Amplifier/dp/B0157DKAU4/ref=sr_1_9


this is a tube amp/dac/preamp. should be a bit "warmer" of a sound signature than other usb dac/amps. ive never used tubes (need to get one someday to see for myself...). you can also swap the tubes out for other ones to try for different sound signatures. again, never used tube amps but that is supposed to be part of the appeal i think.
https://www.amazon.com/Headphone-Amplifier-Preamplifier-Integrated-Audio/dp/B0774669ND/ref=pd_sbs_23_46


the m50x are great all around headphones that are easy to power, so that makes it much easier to find something that fits your budget/needs.

u/kaitsching · 2 pointsr/audiophile

Is THIS the one you are talking about? Or are there any older versions of the black one, considering the red one is 20€ more expensive in germany.

u/RadBadTad · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

Mine isn't an amp, it's just a USB DAC that decodes the audio at a higher quality than the internal DAC in the phone.

u/Tea_gee · 1 pointr/explainlikeimfive

you could get a lightning to usb splitter cable, plug an external USB DAC/amp into one end, and you should be able to charge off the other plug. I will admit that I haven't tested this and I don't have much experience with the lightning standard.

A good DAC(something like this) will invariably sound better than the embedded one being removed from the iphone but this isn't a cheap solution.

u/Addishuns · 1 pointr/headphones

Just bought hd598s, sound pretty good but I'm having a few issues.

  • If i connect the headphones to the back of my computer (put it together myself) I get a constant buzzing sound in both ears, so thats a no go.
  • If I plug them into the front, they dont plug into the port very well so sometimes i cant hear out of the right ear, or the right ear gets a loud buzzing (both of these things are very annoying)

    Anything i can do to fix these issues? I know it's not the headphones cause they work properly on other things like my iphone or other computer. Friend told me i should get this and my problems would go away
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01DP5JHHI/ref=pd_cp_0_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1ZXVXHW24T1W1H38WJW5

    Issue is I'm kind of strapped for cash, also need a mic which will probably cost me about 50. Any solutions?
u/Theta_Zero · 1 pointr/headphones

I picked up a pair of M50xs for work, but my work laptop uses Realtek driver 6.0.1.6914 from 2013, and this just isn't keeping up at all with the quality of my 598s and Asus STX II audio card at home. Everything I've seen places these two headphones around the same in terms of quality, so I don't think its the headphones themselves. On this laptop, the sound is just....scratchy, I guess is the best word for it. A little muddy as well. Now that I've heard better, certain bassy songs are actually uncomfortable and distracting to listen to. The same music on my home setup sounds significantly better.

What I want to know is whether or not I can expect to hear an improvement if I grab a lower-end DAC/AMP like the Dragonfly, or if I'm going to need to push my budget higher. Is Realtek any good versus lower end options?

u/spicedpumpkins · 1 pointr/HeadphoneAdvice
u/Tooitchy · 1 pointr/audiophile

First, everyone saying you won't hear a difference, is full of it. Not a difference from 24/48 to 24/96 mind you, but you WILL hear a difference going from whatever DAC and amplification your monitor is supplying your headphones, to equipment designed solely to perform these tasks. The jump from the monitor to even a dragonfly will be huge, but the jump to end game level equipment like THX AAA amps and a high quality DAC like a Geshelli labs, or SMSL SU-8 will be life changing, and you'll go down a path that will lead to you spending way too much money on headphones. I'm currently on this path, and it's glorious, but your family/friends might think you're insane for spending thousands on headphones.

​

You need a DAC and amp. I don't know how seriously you are taking sound quality, but there are a number of combo units that are fairly cheap, probably best for your situation if money is tight, being a student I know the struggles, so you should get the Audioquest Dragonfly. It's a DAC and amp in one tiny USB stick sized device, supports 24/96 (I think that's its highest supported quality) and it's only $99. There are other versions that are better, and more expensive, but if you're gonna spend more than 100$, or want some reference for the future then.....well, read the rest of my comment.

Audioquest Dragonfly https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI?th=1

​

​

If you are willing to spend a little more, and are a little more serious about headphones, I recommend the JDS Labs atom headphone amp, it's VERY good especially at the 100$ price point. As far as dac just get something like a Schiit Modi 3, also 100$.

JDS Labs Atom amp https://jdslabs.com/product/atom-amp/

Schiit Modi 3 DAC https://www.amazon.com/Schiit-Modi-Converter-Delta-Sigma-DAC/dp/B07KWHWV1M/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=schiit+modi+3&qid=1569914940&sr=8-1

​

If you're really serious about headphone quality, and want end game level equipment, and money is no object I recommend the THX AAA amps, they are superb and vastly outperform anything else on the market in terms of harmonic distortion and noise floor. They are a bit hard to get right now because of demand, massdrop isn't shipping their 789's out until late November, and Monoprice isn't getting their new model 887 in until around the same time. The only option is to buy used, but everyone is asking for a small premium because of the scarcity, and demand. They're 400$ MSRP, used it's like 420-450. Monoprice has another model however, it's the one I currently have and I LOVE it, it's a balanced DAC and balanced AMP in one unit, and it's 500$, the Monolith THX AAA 788. With it you don't need anything else, and it sounds....well it sounds like whatever you're listening to, because it has such low levels of distortion (well below what is even noticeable by human hearing), it's truly source perfect.

As far as DAC to pair with something like a THX amp, there are a number of options, but Geshelli labs makes a good balanced DAC that's only $180 I believe (if you go balanced amp, like the THX, you'll need a balanced DAC to get balanced output, and you'll need a balanced cable from your headphones to the amp)

The Monolith THX 788 DAC/AMP https://www.amazon.com/Monolith-124459-Headphone-Amplifier-Technology/dp/B07KQW1WFX/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=monolith+thx&qid=1569914858&sr=8-1

Drop THX 789 AMP https://drop.com/buy/drop-thx-aaa-789-linear-amplifier

Geshelli Labs balanced DAC https://geshelli.com/shop?olsPage=products%2Fenog2-pro-dac-purple-case

u/arsa37 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

alright after thinking about it a lot i was gontna suggest either hyprex cloud 2+ cheap adapter or hifiman edition S and a mic+ cheap adapter but the adaper will make everything sound awful,
i think your absolute best audio option around that budget is really hard to get in your state with no jack but i think i got smth really nice for 187 or 200 depending on the mic, Phillips SHP9500 - 70$, an Audioquest DragonFly - 100$ which is a better source for your audio and a Vmoda Boompro Mic - 30$ or this Sony clip on mic - 17$

u/surfhiker · 1 pointr/linuxquestions

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B01DP5JHHI

Type linux under Customer Questions and this'll come up:

> “Works great with Linux and Android. The output sounds markedly better than the output from any built-in headphone jack I've tried.”

I think if it works on Android it will most likely work on linux.

P.S. I have the same headphones and they are my favorite!

u/TSP-FriendlyFire · 1 pointr/pcgaming

A DAC is almost invariably going to be an upgrade over built-in audio. Better parts, much better isolation (since it's outside the case), better amplification as well (since you'll most likely want to go for a DAC/headphone amp combo).

There's no "best" DAC though, it's a massive market with hundreds of products. Depends on your budget and location (since not all products are available everywhere).

With the price of your headphones, I'd probably look around the $100 price range. The Schiit Fulla 2 is a good example, or the AudioQuest DragonFly for something a bit more portable (but not as powerful).

u/BiggestBlackestCorn · 1 pointr/Toyota

Like what other redditors have said, the problem is gonna be your source, not the vehicle. I'd reccomend looking for a portable external DAC/Amp. For example I use an audioquest dragonfly red but that might be a little overkill for you. Try looking into the black version it's a little cheaper, or maybe check out some options from Fiio. Dont worry if it says headphone amp, itll still function just fine for loudspeaker applications.

u/sharkamino · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Auto mod flagging your long possilby affiliate amazon link.

Reduce it to https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI

or https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP5JHHI all you need is /dp/ and the ASIN number.

u/niuguy · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Right now you're using a very low quality digital to analog converter that takes sound info in your laptop and converts to analog waves that your speakers can output. Probably the most obvious upgrade to your system would be to upgrade your DAC. Something like one of these:

https://www.schiit.com/products/modi-1 or

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI/ref=asc_df_B01DP5JHHI/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=193992629021&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=17903776336152944701&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9027973&hvtargid=pla-318385572452&psc=1

​

u/GrabblesNow · 1 pointr/buildapc

From my current knowledge, there's not a huge difference between integrated sound and buying a separate sound card anymore. So, generally what you're looking for is a good pair of headphones foremost, and then into DACs/AMPs. There's plenty of them combined into one device.

This or This are what I'd recommend for something that'd actually make a difference at a lower price point.

I'm unsure of headphones because I don't know what you'd want out of them. All headphones do something a bit different or have different sound profiles. These are what I have. I found these on sale on Amazon so those might also interest you.

I'm not much of an audiophile so anyone that knows more feel free to correct me!

Realistically the DACs are not necessary if you don't want to, a good pair of headphones will do you just fine.

u/HiFiHarbard · 1 pointr/audiophile

I would purchase either Audioquest’s Dragonfly Black @ $99 USD or Dragonfly Red @ $199 USD. They’re a USB DAC + Preamp + Headphone Amp. I own the Red and love it! It’ll improve the sound quality and drive your cans better!

Here’s the link Amazon for the Black:

AudioQuest DragonFly Black v1.5 Plug-in USB DAC + Preamp + Headphone Amp https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP5JHHI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Zbm3CbXXB9HTY

If it fits your budget, the Red gives you more bang-for-the-buck in my opinion. They’ll detail the differences in description.

u/GeForceRTX · 1 pointr/Blackops4

No matter what headphones you get, I recommend to everyone the AudioQuest DragonFly Black USB DAC. It has made such a huge difference in audio quality that I can't imagine going without it.

Combine that with the Audio Technica ATH-M40x. Here's a review from YouTube's favorite headphone geek: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X6wBv03B1nk

u/Degru · 1 pointr/techsupport
  1. Don't uninstall the driver; the driver installer should uninstall it for you, and then install the correct driver upon reboot. Disconnect from the internet while it's installing just to be safe.

  2. That's one of the problems with the default Windows driver

  3. Well... shit. Could be that your laptop just has really shitty integrated sound. And that statics sounds like it is badly isolated from the rest of the computer. You could also try returning/replacing if you can still do that. I'd return it and get a different laptop altogether.

    Have a look at the Behringer UCA202 (cheap and still OK, but bulky), or some other USB DAC in the meantime.

    There's also this and (my recommendation, if you can afford it) this. They'll give you way better sound than any laptop can provide, and they'll be completely free from any crackling or interference of any kind since they're outside of the computer.
u/Lolicon_des · 1 pointr/headphones

I am looking for a DAC/amp to pair with my new AKG K702 cans. Would love to stay at the 100 euro range - give or take 20€.

I have a couple of candidates - which one would be the best to go with the K702, if any? Any other recommendations?

FiiO E10K (Link)

Nuforce uDAC3 (Link)

AudioQuest - DragonFly USB DAC (Link)

Procaster DAC-03 (Link) - sorry, the manufacturer and seller is Finnish. Specs are as follows:

  • 24-bit / 96 kHz audio circuit

  • Output power: 350 mW @32 Ohm

  • Impedance: 16-300 Ohm
  • THD+N: 0,009 @ 1 kHz

  • Signal-to-noise ratio: 110 dB

  • Input: Micro-USB, for audio and power

  • Output: RCA, 3.5mm

u/dnyank1 · 1 pointr/buildapc

welcome to the hi-fi rabbit hole! here, you can spend thousands (if not tens of thousands) of dollars on things with barely (if any) discernible differences! You're correct in assuming a dedicated DAC/Amp would help here - all 3.5mm jacks drive electrical signals which, in the case of headphones, directly drive the drivers which produce sound waves your ears can hear. The DAC in most high end smartphones, motherboards, etc are pretty good - but audio equipment is often skimped on to hit a price point.

I'd highly recommend a mini USB DAC with a decent driver like the audioquest dragonfly which balances the price/performance/convenience equation really well, imo. https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_2

u/xx2000xx · 1 pointr/htpc

Yeah, both the normalized matrix and windows sound loudness equalizer basically does what AVR Recievers have with a day/evening/night setting..... Again, you're throwing filters and tons of random options for the regular people out there, but you wanted to get the best quality.

I don't think it makes a big difference, or any at all but make in sound/config that your speakers are small. I've messed with that config for years and it doesn't work like a proper AVR does but it's worth a shot.

If you do want your volume up, where that matrix was use the clipping but I just ran a test and man I had to blast my AVR's AMP that could blow out so many headphones it's not even funny with the 50x compared to the 650's, they are a bitch to drive and the onboard sound which I have the same chipset and by the #'s looks like yours could be better, but it won't matter because onboard has always sucked.

You can go cheap and get your very basic ones that will do the job but with the atx-50's I wouldn't expect a massive difference because even with my wall wart amp I wish I could push it just a bit more, but these will help 100% for sure and also if you have a phone/laptop etc...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DP5JHHI/
https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-E10K-Headphone-Amplifier-Black/dp/B00LP3AMC2/

I'd save the money you would spend on that though and put it to something that will last you the next 15 years.

I'll make another post about MadVR

u/FastRedPonyCar · 1 pointr/hackintosh

While I don't have any advice to get your on-board audio working, I gave up on mine and just got an AudioQuest Dragonfly usb DAC. Plug and play ease and sounds way better than my on-board audio ever could.

https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-USB-Converter/dp/B01DP5JHHI

u/raistlin65 · 1 pointr/buildapc

What is your budget?

For example the objective 2 & odac is a great headphone/dac combo that will manage most difficult to drive headphones https://drop.com/buy/massdrop-o2-sdac-dac-amp

For less, look into the audioquest dragonfly https://www.amazon.com/AudioQuest-DragonFly-Black-Preamp-Headphone/dp/B01DP5JHHI

u/Levelis · 0 pointsr/Nexus6P

it's okay, I think we're talking about different things. I'm gonna get a dragonfly black with a usb c to usb 3 converter.

Thank you for being the only person to reply lol.