Reddit mentions of Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover

This is the same problem we had when learning how to setup the electrical system and I feel like rarely talked about. You need a fuse block like this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P6FTHC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469329101&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fuse+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51Wn79biAwL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

You run a wire from your charge controller (load +) to the + terminal on the fuse block and another to the - terminal. You can then wire all your 12v outlets and appliances (lighting, vent fan, etc) to that and mark on the cover what wire is what so you know when doing repair/maintenance

We'll be recording and posting a video about this in the near future because I feel like the little details in electrical are not talked about and require a lot of research for first timers. Feel free to ask more questions and we'll try to help! 😃😃

Edit: I forgot to add some info about the ground. With an off grid system like yours, it is usually a closed system which means you don't have a ground. Just positive and negative wires going to and from the battery/charge controller/fuse panel.

Blue Sea Systems 12 Volt Dash Socket - $8.99

Blue Sea Systems m-Series Battery Switch - $34.62

Smartlive LED String lights DC 12V 10m 33feet 100 LEDS,Warm White - $9.99

DROK Digital Multimeter DC 6.5-100V 100A Voltage Amperage Power Energy Meter - $17.89

ISWEES Dual USB Car Cigarette Lighter Socket Splitter 12V Car Charger - $11.89

Blue Sea Systems ST Blade Fuse Block - 12 Circuits with Negative Bus & Cover - $37.24

BEP Digital Voltage Sensing Relay (DVSR) 12/24V - $78.46

BESTEK 400W Power Inverter DC 12V to AC 110V Car Adapter with 5A 4 USB Charging Ports -$35.99

UB121000 12V AGM Battery 100AH - $125.21 + $34.69 Shipping = $159.90

I love the FJ because its after market and owners support is strong.

• You can add a auxiliary fuel tank, like these by Man-A-Fre. It adds another 19 gallons.
  
  
• An auxiliary fuse box for more "power points". Blue Sea System makes them to satisfy as many as you want to add.
  
  
• Rack solutions are a search away. From new racks to mounting accessories.
  
  
• I've been doing this for years without a winch. (Though I bought one recently) Snatch straps, D rings and friend are more than enough for most situations. Maybe add some Maxtrax if you can afford them. Mostly drive according to your mechanical ability and skill, know your limits.
  
  
• CB radios are great but I've used cheap walkie talkies too. Not like my spotter is going to be carrying a CB manpack.

different but similar (this is what i used) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

You're most welcome! I bought the following:

4x100W Panels

Panel Mounting

Solar Panel Connectors

Tool Crimper

Assembly Tool

Panel Connectors

Power Information

CTEK Charger

CTEK SmartPass

200ah AMG Battery

Fuse Block

300W Pure Sine Wave Inverter

LED Strip

Dometic 35 Fridge


I bought all these items with research into my solar needs and following the advice from here in the vandwelling subreddit and also information I gathered from Amazon. I am probably doing a bit of overkill on my solar setup but I thankfully have the money to do it and don't want to mess with adding anything later.

I will have to do research myself on how to combine the four panels into the battery but that will be a few weeks away so I haven't done much in that area. I do plan to buy 10GA wire from Lowes and use the crimping tool and connectors to form my own wiring harness so it will be clean looking. \

EDIT: Adding info.

Get a fuse box like this then attach wires to cigarette adapters. The fuse box is connected directly to battery with another fuse between them.

EDIT: Mind you, I'm still trying to figure out what size fuse, circuit breaker goes between them LOL

EDIT #2: Also, from this fuse box, you directly connect LED lighting, your cig adapters and any other 12v source you may have. All the fuses are in one place instead of in-line. Makes it easy to diagnose problems as you can just pull the fuse to work on something. Make sure to label!

EDIT #3: Also.. get some these fuses. It's cheap and now you have a ton of extras!

Thats a Blue Sea fuse block.

I bought an oversized one in case I ever wanted to upgrade and add more devices.

It also has ground terminals so everything meets at the block rather than connecting to another location.

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/

First, my needs:

1. Power 1/2 LED monitors at ~30W each
   
2. Occasionally charge laptop
   
3. LED lighting
   
4. 2 Maxxair fans
   
   
   Second, the components:
   
   Panels/controller https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00B8L6EFA
   
   Battery https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01ACKDGPS
   
   Y connectors https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4ELRSH
   
   Cable entry https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CSEXW2S
   
   2 Gauge wire https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KD2756W
   
   Terminal rings https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005V9UWB2
   
   Crimp tool https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003X51S00
   
   Terminal block https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000S5Q2VS
   
   Busbars https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0091VHLW4
   
   Inverter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004MDXS0U
   
   Vent vans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002OW5JIU
   
   Monitors https://www.asus.com/us/Monitors/PB278Q/
   
   Puck lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ODSAR12
   
   Strip lights https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IQOV13G
   
   Fuse box https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC
   
   Killswitch https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005DUUL9W
   
   Switches https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XFJW1SB
   
   Dimmer https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00L8KP16E
   
   
   I know my needs are fairly minimal. I see opportunity to grow with this system if I ever need to. I’m excited to lay it out with the actual parts soon and begin thinking about it in the real world.
   
   Any suggestions, info or questions are completely welcome. I know little about electrical, only what I’ve learned from reddit and youtube. Thanks pals and again /u/StolidSentinel for the help and replies to all my messages and questions!

Modified boating stuff:

A fuse box like this https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=pd_bxgy_200_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B001P6FTHC&pd_rd_r=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3&pd_rd_w=eatpQ&pd_rd_wg=QSpKm&psc=1&refRID=X7BNG9NJZ9ZBBRRTJBR3 which connects to this https://www.amazon.com/Marinco-On-Board-Charging-Inlets/dp/B000NI38MG/ref=pd_sbs_200_3?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01K9KDXOA&pd_rd_r=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&pd_rd_w=jkXDk&pd_rd_wg=IiMzj&refRID=7194DMW9QGPTN4P39QBA&th=1 connected with this https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Vinyl-Outdoor-Extension-Cord/dp/B00OS7ETIA/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1525991665&sr=8-5&keywords=extension+cord. In fact some Skoolie people prefer using extension cords over romex entirely.

Our fuse box has a female plug coming off of it, allowing us to physically switch between sources - from battery to generator to shore power. To do 30/50 amp power is similar, but you need a lot more stuff, and is like wiring a house. I basically just added a fuse box to an extension cord. You drill a hole through the side of the bus to mount the second piece. It's pretty cool, to be honest.

Any RV owner will tell you that water is pernicious. Skoolies are the same way. You need to caulk your bus yearly - or at least go over it and look. We replaced the running lights, and did a wonderfully poor job of it, and I didn't caulk it. Then we walked on the roof, which the metal parts had no issue with, but the front of our bus is fiberglass and it separated from the metal, allowing a leak point.

Honestly, a cleaned and then painted roof (using Henry's RV paint for example) will make life very easy. You know how you can get by a couple years between coats of paint on your house? And how house roofs can go 15-30 years? Well, imagine if you drove your house around. It will need some attention before then. Just keep a can or three of silicone or paintable caulk on hand, and you'll be good.

Also, a very handy (if ugly) thing to get is butyl tape. Overpriced version is called flex seal, or you can hit up home depot for the roofing version. It's got a silvered back, and it's great at sealing holes... and sound proofing.

I no longer can put links in as words? I dislike the new reddit layout.

Safety and convenience. You want to turn off the circuit any time you do maintenance on it.

Yup. I use this 100A fuse block. Mine goes from the batteries to a 100A ANL fuse to a disconnect switch to the fuse block. So 100A protection for the total circuit, plus smaller fuses in the fuse block for the individual things I want to route power to.

I use this chart to decide what gauge wire I need for each run.

Just go on amazon and look for fuse boxes. There are lots available for custom car applications, trailers, and motorcycles as well as marine applications (water-proof with high grade connections).

The mentioned VB block is 1. from VB and 2. Twice the price of the same block from somewhere like Summit.

There are a lot of options

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1503421251&sr=8-5&keywords=fuse+box

another smaller type:

https://www.amazon.com/KKmoon-DC12V-Holder-Warning-Marine/dp/B01J3R8KS4/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1503421251&sr=8-9&keywords=fuse+box

Everything will need to be grounded or it will not operate. The easiest way to do this is to use a fusebox as you mentioned. The number of items you'll want to power should determine the number of terminals you'll need. Connect your Anderson Powerpole terminals to their corresponding spots on the Blue Sea Systems fuse box (12 terminals with negative because you can always not use some, but you can't add any on the 6 terminal model).

https://www.amazon.com/Goal-Zero-Terminal-Connector-Cable/dp/B00URTHQTC/ref=sr_1_1?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442293&sr=1-1&keywords=yeti+1250+terminal+ring

https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496442487&sr=8-1&keywords=blue+sea+fuse+box+12

Use a disconnect switch below and a ring connector cable to make sure you don't draw any power when not intended. It will go between your positive leads.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011EYWMDS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/Camco-47453-4-Gauge-Battery-Assembly/dp/B00JGJGCV2/ref=sr_1_9?ie=UTF8&qid=1496442659&sr=8-9&keywords=4+awg+cable

For the wiring to indidual 12v sources I use copper-clad aluminum because I'm cheap and use 12 gauge (non-awg because it's cheaper and only slightly smaller in gauge diameter) and it hasn't given me any problems because for the price I go a bit bigger than I might need.

https://www.amazon.com/PRIMARY-POWER-GROUND-100FT-ROLLS/dp/B00OU0IIFU/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442827&sr=1-6&keywords=12+gauge+wire

For the fridge though you may want to go to 10 gauge.

https://www.amazon.com/GAUGE-GROUND-PRIMARY-STRANDED-COPPER/dp/B01C7O8166/ref=sr_1_6?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496442902&sr=1-6&keywords=10+gauge+wire.

Look at the 12v chart below and make sure you're within the range for the length of wire you want to run which I can't imagine you wont be since everything you're describing is super low amp.

https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/originals/57/22/80/57228076ef240ed796b328a7d6387eac.jpg

Then to connect the equipment to power you can either solder the wires together or use these below to crimp them (crimping video below that). You're wire stripping pliers should have a crimping portion on them already. if not buy the ones in the 4th link.

https://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-Insulated-Terminals-Electrical-Connectors/dp/B01D8HIQ2K/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496443951&sr=1-4&keywords=12-10+gauge+wire+connectors

https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Electrical-Insulated-Terminals-Connectors/dp/B01E7SY49I/ref=sr_1_11?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1496444024&sr=1-11&keywords=12-10+gauge+wire+connectors

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Svja8zEcKNQ&t=9s

https://www.amazon.com/VISE-GRIP-Multi-Tool-Stripper-Crimper-2078309/dp/B000JNNWQ2/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1496443370&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=wire+stripping+pliers+irwin

You'll then use the terminal rings from the link above (pretty sure that's the correct size ring) to connect the end of those wires to the fuse box on the negative and positive sides. Fuse based on the amps you'll be drawing. Since I think someone somewhere will complain that this is expensive and there are cheaper ways to do it, I set you up on the "new everything" route since I don't think you'll have any of these things and if you're getting a goal zero I don't think price is a limiting factor. Unless you already have a lot of experience with wiring this is the basic version with everything you'll need pre-made as much as possible.

typically I have a bus bar where I connect my batteries, my charge controllers and my loads. I have an overall fuse connected between the batteries and the bus.

Something like this is a good idea. Having a fuse for every load helps.

https://www.amazon.ca/Blue-Sea-Systems-Blade-Block/dp/B001P6FTHC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=bus+bar&qid=1567973923&s=gateway&sr=8-4

Here's what I got!

Same as above. I ran 16 Gauge wire with 30 amp fuses. I wired the fuses inline, but amazon has an addable fuse block that looks great for wiring everything back to.

Please get yourself a proper container for those buses. At least one of them should be covered to avoid shorting.
Or get a all in one fuse box like this.

Next something looks wrong in your wiring. Is there a ground line and positive running to those switches?

Lastly please put a fuse between the bus and the battery. That way if those buses did short it will blow first.

Edit: I understand the ground going to the switch now. It looks like you have illuminated switches with need a ground.
Probably worth mentioning as there are double throw switches that would short out if someone wired it without understanding.

You're not going to run that many amps through the DC fuse block... things with smalllish loads go here... (LEDs, Fan, water pump... around 30 amps combined, and maybe about 20 max for a single device). Large devices like the inverter get attached directly to the battery with their own dedicated high cap fuse. So I have a 30A fuse at the POS side of my fuse block, so everything total shouldn't exceed 30A for me. Again, here's the one I got: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC

If they are not labeled, who knows. Wiring diagram I dont think will help much, older boats tend to have people changing things all around. Unless you mean a wiring diagram for the motor?

Get a fuse block and start labeling everything and make things neat! https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC/

Yeah, that thing looks like a fire waiting to happen..

Someone else linked this which has fuses:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P6FTHC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1469329101&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=fuse+box&dpPl=1&dpID=51Wn79biAwL&ref=plSrch&th=1&psc=1

look into the BlueSea PDC - like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001P6FTHC/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have it in my JK under the hood, with a 100 amp circuit breaker between it and the battery. I ran battery cables and put ends on them. I wouldn't suggest Jumper cables as they aren't designed for continuous usage. I would recommend 2 gauge cables. Google Blue Sea and Jeep and there are lots of pics and descriptions of options.

I used a Blue Seas ST Fuse block

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001P6FTHC?pc_redir=1404828766&robot_redir=1

Nice van!

Don't be too intimidated with adding a house battery. You can do it.

Very in-depth guide for adding a house battery with solenoid: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1zrwHyy4qyY

This is the battery I used, it ROCKS. (smaller and cheaper options from same company available)

Other items I used...

• Continuous Duty Solenoid
  
• Heavy Gauge Wire 2 AWG
  
• Ring Terminals for Heavy Gauge Wire
  
• ANL Fuse Holder
  
• ANL Fuses 100 Amp
  
• Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Terminals and Connectors for Lighter Gauge Wire
  
• Heat Shrink Assortment
  
• Circuit breaker (alternative to ANL fuses, works as master disconnect too)
  
• Fuse Block (for all devices connected to house battery)

The red cable going to the bottom of each is probably the feed. There's a ground bus at the top of these blocks that OP isn't using, presumably in favor of those giant bus bars.

Edit: pretty sure they're these, and you can see the feed lug at the bottom in the "open" pictures. :)

I heard good things about Blue Sea Systems. Plan on using that when I start adding lights

Pretty sure they mean this (or something like it).

I work for a manufacturer and we have a MAP policey we enforce. Amazon stocks and sells our product so they must abide by our MAP prices. That includes their sellers.

If we see someone trying to sell large quantities of our stuff below MAP we send a notice like this. If we get no response we usually have Amazon or eBay pull it down.

It sucks it has to be that way but Chinese knock offs just destroy legitimate businesses.

I'd suggest changing the price or selling it auction style on eBay. I would not risk getting a ban over it.

EDIT. OK, guys. I wasn't trying to start a riot I was just trying to give some insight. If you think I'm full of shit I could care less. If you want to test my theory, list 10+ units in new condition for 5% less than the going price for these products. No one will bother you if you list 1, only if its about 10 or more.

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