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Reddit mentions of Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition (How to Climb Series)

Sentiment score: 9
Reddit mentions: 15

We found 15 Reddit mentions of Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition (How to Climb Series). Here are the top ones.

Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition (How to Climb Series)
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  • NATIONAL BOOK NETWRK CLIMBING ANCHORS
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Found 15 comments on Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition (How to Climb Series):

u/barrythefigment · 3 pointsr/climbing

Climbing Anchors by John Long is a good concise reference for, well, climbing anchors.

Specifically it covers stuff like what to avoid when placing nuts and cams, what to look for in natural protection, warning signs for bad bolts, and the pros and cons of the various rigging systems. It's pretty cheap too so I think it definitely has a place on your shelf.

u/wheenan · 3 pointsr/climbing

Find someone with experience to show you how to do it. There are subtle mistakes that can be made setting up an anchor - cross-loading biners, chafing webbing, equalization issues, directional issues, etc.

A good book by a great writer and a Yosemite Stonemaster is Climbing Anchors by John Long

http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-2nd-How-Climb/dp/0762723262/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1269897510&sr=8-1

But seriously, you only get one life. Find someone with experience to "show you the ropes".

u/handsome_b_wonderful · 3 pointsr/climbing

I'm pretty sure most people will be reticent to give advice over t'internet about setting up anchors because when you teach someone you want to be sure that they've got the hang of it before they try it in the wild. Try and go out with an experienced friend and set up some dummy anchors and then go through your first proper anchor with experienced friend(much cheaper than paying instruction)

In the mean time this is a cheap good book full of diagrams. Good luck with your outside climbing, totally different experience from the(slightly sterile) indoor climbing world

u/meats_the_parent · 3 pointsr/climbing

Regarding TR anchors: read Anchors in EARNEST and John Long's Climbing Anchors. On top of the reading, please seek instructions from an experienced person and have them look over your work for the first few times. (If I were in Jersey, I'd take you up on the offer for teaching, climbing, and boozing.)

//EDIT: Corrected link format.

u/[deleted] · 3 pointsr/climbing

If you haven't already read it, I recommend John Long's Climbing Anchors book (2ed): http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-2nd-How-Climb/dp/0762723262 It's a great follow-up to the hands-on experience you already have.

u/Em_Es_Judd · 3 pointsr/climbing

Guidebooks to the climber's local crags would be a great gift if they don't already have them.

If they already have those, then Climbing Anchors is definitely one every climber should read.

u/akacharya · 3 pointsr/climbing

Look into it. I do know some people that learned to lead trad from friends. If so, make sure you do the following:

  1. Follow a friend and inspect his placements as you clean them.
  2. Practice placing pieces while standing on solid ground, and have an experienced friend check out and critique your placements.
  3. If you can get two other people, try a "mock lead" on TR, with one person on TR belay and another person on lead belay. Make sure the TR belay is nice and loose and try hanging on a piece on your lead rope. Maybe even try a bit of a fall. If you can only get one other person, still do the mock lead, but trail the rope with no belay. You won't get the experience of weighting or falling on gear, but placing a piece while on the rock is still way, way different from placing a piece on solid ground.
  4. Read Traditional Lead Climbing by Heidi Pesterfield. Cover to cover. http://www.amazon.com/Traditional-Lead-Climbing-Climbers-Taking/dp/0899974422/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1309779139&sr=8-2
  5. Only after you have done all of the above, try a lead climb on something stupid easy. Have an experienced friend inspect your placement. Ask him if any cams walked or tipped out; if cams were undercammed; if nuts or hexes were too close to the edge and liable to blow; etc.
  6. Read Climbing Anchors, by John Long. http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-2nd-How-Climb/dp/0762723262/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1309779148&sr=8-1 This is must-know stuff; without a bolt line to follow, you could go off-route and need to build an anchor to bail off.
  7. Read up on rock rescue; this is a good book: http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Self-Rescue-Improvising-Mountaineers/dp/089886772X/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1309779184&sr=8-5

    Good luck, and climb on.
u/Entropy_surfer · 3 pointsr/climbing

I forgot to add, there are some great books out there that are super inspiring and useful.

Climbing Anchors, 2nd Edition, by John Long

Self-Rescue, by David Fasulo, Mike Clelland

Big Walls, Paul Piana

u/h_lehmann · 2 pointsr/climbing

I recommend this:
(http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-Edition-Climb-Series/dp/0762723262)
It goes a long way toward explaining what makes a good anchor, what makes a bad anchor, and how to tell the difference.

As for variations, you could extend both slings to their full length and connect them with two biners (gates opposite and opposed). You would get nearly the same overall length without the possibility of a sudden extension if one bolt pulls.
If you're just using it for top roping, just remember that you stand a far greater chance of dying in a wreck on the way to Stoney Point than you do of dying from any of those slings breaking.

u/thundercatsarehere · 2 pointsr/climbing

Buy this book, it might save you from having some really rough "learning" (near death) experiences:

http://www.amazon.com/Climbing-Anchors-2nd-How-Climb/dp/0762723262

u/wrinkledknows · 2 pointsr/climbing

I've used different methods: (1) find a patient belayer willing to belay you on top rope while you climb and set gear. I have one good buddy who had done a lot of trad back in the day but wasn't interested in leading any more so this approach was great because he was experienced enough to check my gear and give advice. (2) set a bunch of gear and build anchors while on the ground. (3) bring along some trad pro while sport climbing and try to find somewhere to place it even if it's unnecessary. (4) while seconding and cleaning look closely at the gear you're taking out and understand why it was placed however it was. (5) a lot of reading - the books on anchor building by John Long and Craig Luebben are great. I prefer Luebben's because he tends to be more descriptive of why certain placements are better/worse.

u/0bsidian · 2 pointsr/climbing

Climbing Anchors - John Long, Bob Gaines.
https://www.amazon.ca/Climbing-Anchors-2nd-John-Long/dp/0762723262

Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide Book - Craig Luebben.
https://www.amazon.com/Rock-Climbing-Anchors-Comprehensive-Mountaineers/dp/1594850062

u/StuckAtOnePoint · 1 pointr/climbing

Take a class from a certified mountain guide.

No, seriously. Take a class.

Failing that, find a partner who has 1) many many years of mountain experience. Offer to belay them anywhere and everywhere. Learn from them. 2) REALLY has many years of experience. There are quite a few folks who present themselves as experts but know fuck-all - it's terrifying.

Read read read and practice practice practice. Some good books are:

Moutaineering: Freedom of the Hills

How to Rock Climb! - John Long

Climbing Anchors - John Long

More Climbing Anchors - John Long

Training for Climbing - Eric Horst

Climbing Self Rescue - Tyson and Loomis


It is very important to realize that these skills should be second nature to you. When you are tired, cold, or frightened you should not be trying to remember how to rig a clove hitch on an equalette or set up a 3-to-1 to haul your partner over the crux of the 2nd pitch, in the dark. Buy gear, watch videos, read books and practice at home. Be confident without being over-confident.

Mountaineering (in all its forms) is a long slow progression of skill and judgement.

u/loluguys · 0 pointsr/climbing

Awesome, I'll give it a whirl!

So far my knowledge comes solely from Climbing Anchors and How to Rock Climb, but I am definitely planning on taking a course!