Reddit mentions of CRC 05089 BRAKLEEN Brake Parts Cleaner - Non-Flammable -19 Wt Oz

CRC Brakleen is the best instant killer of Black Widow spiders money can buy

You don't know what brakekleen is?
Edit: it's the best stuff in the world
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDR9HI/ref=psdc_15718981_t1_B0002FU44K
You have to get the chlorinated stuff though, if it says non chlorinated don't waste your money.

CRC Brakleen Brake Parts Cleaner - Non-Flammable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDR9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GlHrzbCJQDQZZ

Order it yourself, unless you live in CA or NJ, in which case this might be more useful.

edit: Not A Lawyer


 


 




This is absolutely the answer.



I suggest a Fernco seal rather than a wax ring. It is more secure and a tighter/better seal than oldschool wax rings.



A wax ring only gives you one shot to get a good seal. Once mushed it won't seal well. If the toilet moves, it may leak.



The Fernco has a powerful adhesive that sticks to the bottom of the toilet and the funnel extends a little bit into the pipe.




There are two sizes, 3" and 4".



To do an extra good job, use brake cleaner or Goof Off (not goo-gone or citrus) to strip all the wax residue from the toilet.



Make sure the toilet is well bolted down, doesn't rock.


 



Links: (no affiliate/interest)



https://www.amazon.com/Fernco-Inc-FTS-4-4-Inch-Toilet/dp/B000BVMZUG/


https://www.amazon.com/CRC-05089-BRAKLEEN-Brake-Cleaner/dp/B000LDR9HI/



https://www.amazon.com/Goof-Off-FG653-Professional-Strength/dp/B002MPPYYS/


https://www.amazon.com/LASCO-04-3645-6-Inch-4-Inch-Washers/dp/B000FH6GI8/

I mean brake-parts cleaner. it melts that shit right off. I just had to do it with my car.

Nintendo joystick shafts go through a captured ball in the base which probably needs a thorough cleaning.
I would start by completely disassembling it and cleaning the entire base, especially the area around the ball. I use Brakleen to de-gunk them. Then after it dries, I use a silicone lubricant on all the metal mating surfaces.

Thank you!! Absolutely, here's the video that we watched and followed very closely: https://youtu.be/H9xn066qfKo

Some notes:

1. Must clean the calipers of all the dirt and grime from the road with this:
   
   CRC 05089 BRAKLEEN Brake Parts Cleaner - Non-Flammable -19 Wt Oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000LDR9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_fbdvDbZNSKSJG
   
   
2. Then, take a gritty sandpaper and polish the caliper so it's a smooth surface. Don't overdo it but just enough so the paint has an even surface to adhere to.
   
   120 Grit Dry Wet Sandpaper Sheets by LotFancy, 9 x 3.6", Silicon Carbide, Pack of 45 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075WV8PN9/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_NfdvDbPYQJ1VG
   
   
3. The paint is awesome but do thin layers and let it dry before doing the next coat. Took about 3-4 coats for full opacity. The paint gets thick and a little goopy (which is a good thing) sobog recommendation is to practice on another car's caliper first if possible or practice painting a can so you have a feel for how the paint moves and settles.
   
   
   
4. I used 3 brushes: a large flexible soft paint brush, grabbed two eye shadow brushes to get into the nook and crannies. If you or wife/partner is into makeup, there should be an unused brush stash you could use. If not, grab these at Target, they are exactly $1.
   
   A. Good for the holes in the caliper and very tight spots (I painted almost all the way to the back of the caliper to make sure it looked red at every possible angle).
   
   Check out this item at Target https://www.target.com/p/e-l-f-blending-eye-brush/-/A-14653397
   
   B. A stiffer brush for the verrrrry tight spots where the caliper meets the brake pad and you do NOT want to have Shakey hands and get anything near those pads.
   
   Check out this item at Target https://www.target.com/p/e-l-f-concealer-brush/-/A-13958833
   
   C. For extra measure when you are doing touch up in those tight spots (this one is $3):
   
   Check out this item at Target https://www.target.com/p/e-l-f-angled-eyeliner-brush/-/A-13586153
   
   
5. We did this project in one day, it took a good 7 hours counting in the time it took to get each one of Lord Commander's tires off one by one, carefully painting, carefully getting the tires back on then slooowly driving him back into the garage.
   
   
6. Do not drive for a good 24 painful hours to make sure the paint is dry.
   
   
7. Get these heat resistant stickers to apply after the paint it dry (so you'll have to take the tires off all over again unless you have a place to suspend your baby car for 2 days). You'll have some leftover and you can Teslafy anything you want. We did a quick wipe down off the already painted calipers to make sure the stickers went on clean.
   
   https://www.ebay.com/itm/TESLA-HI-TEMP-PREMIUM-BRAKE-CALIPER-DECALS-STICKERS-CAST-VINYL-/362070373338
   
   
8. Labor of love is an understatement but it gets easier with each caliper. You'll have a ton of paint leftover for future touchups but we've had no problems since doing this 3 months ago with both paint and logo. Take breaks because it's borderline back breaking!
   
   
9. You can spray paint also as seen here
   https://teslamotorsclub.com/tmc/threads/want-painted-calipers-dont-want-to-spend-600-on-them.140873/#post-3346753
   
   My husband didn't want to do this method because prep looked much more intense and he'd figure I wouldn't mind a painting project on a cloudy Saturday afternoon.
   
   If you are in my state, I'd be happy to help. I'm new to reddit so not sure how to do the direct messages but let me know! Hope this helps! Please don't hesitate to ask questions when you start this. 150% worth the effort. It's beautiful and the Tesla service man honestly thought our SR+ was a P3. Even after pulling up the computer to look at the specs, he kept saying,"You're so lucky to have a performance!". I didn't have the heart to tell him it wasn't. Best of luck!!!

I'm probably gonna die, but I use a quick blast of automotive brake parts cleaner to get my cams clean, dry them with compressed air, and apply Liquid Wrench Teflon spray lube. Seems to get the cams good and clean without scrubbing, and keeps things nice and smooth operating for a long time without attracting gunk.

Try brake parts cleaner. The kind that contains tetrachloroethylene, which is a dry cleaning fluid. It won't disturb the paper. Idk about the ink, but it is worth a try.

Question.

Why does the grease need removed? Greasing electrical contacts isn't necessarily uncommon to help prevent corrosion (and copper loves to corrode in ways that electricity doesn't like).

If you're sure you want to remove the grease, use America's favorite libation: CRC Brākleen in the non-California-approved red can. It's usually cheaper locally: I bought some today at Harbor Freight for $7.

You can also buy it by the gallon or larger, up to (at least) 55 gallon drums.

strip them with Brakleen and then re-oil them with some tool oil.