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Reddit mentions of CREATIVE Sound BlasterX G5 7.1 Headphone Surround HD Audio External Sound Card with Headphone Amplifier for Windows PC/Mac / PS4 / and Other Consoles
Sentiment score: 12
Reddit mentions: 24
We found 24 Reddit mentions of CREATIVE Sound BlasterX G5 7.1 Headphone Surround HD Audio External Sound Card with Headphone Amplifier for Windows PC/Mac / PS4 / and Other Consoles. Here are the top ones.
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- Country Of Origin : China
- Immersive 3D Pc Gaming Audio
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Features:
Specs:
| Color | 120 dB DNR at 24-bit / 192 kHz |
| Height | 5.83 Inches |
| Length | 6.18 Inches |
| Number of items | 1 |
| Weight | 0.3 Kilograms |
| Width | 1.72 Inches |
I'm a gamer and know nothing of sound but the guys over at /r/buildapc gave me some suggestions to come to the pros here at r/headphones
I currently have the HyperX Cloud Pro Gaming Headset which for the price I have no complains about. The only reason I'm looking to get new headphones is that this headphones kinda suck at helping me hear footsteps and don't get very loud.
Can you guys help me find the best headphones for around 400$. I have no problem going higher as long as I get the best set up possible.
My requirements so far are
I don't know to much about all the components I need to buy so if you can list them all in one post with the name to find on Amazon that would be really helpful.
What I kinda put together but I was told I need an amp.
Headphones
Audio-Technica ATH-A990Z Art Monitor Closed-Back Dynamic Headphones
DAC & AMP
Creative Sound BlasterX G5 7.1 Headphone Surround HD Audio External Sound Card with Headphone Amplifier for Windows PC/Mac/PS4/and Other Consoles
There's a wide range of options, from the "$10-15, decent, it works": https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IRVQ0F8/
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Adapter-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01HPMHOY0/
https://www.amazon.com/UGREEN-External-Converter-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B01M7QQQC7/
There's fancier stuff:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0044DEDCA/
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B018JUPY3A/
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-Performance-Headphone-Integrated-Microphone/dp/B00EZT7RE4/
Or for the wealthy audiophile: https://www.amazon.com/Creative-X7-High-Resolution-Headphone-Connectivity/dp/B00Q3XLGLU/
I ended up getting this. Loving it so far.
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-BlasterX-Headphone-Surround-Amplifier/dp/B018JUPY3A
I've used AKG K52, AKG Q701, Audeze LCD-2 Classic, Audio-Technica ATH-AD700x, Beyerdynamic DT990 (600 ohms), HiFiMan HE400i (the revision), HiFiMan HE500, HyperX Cloud, Koss Porta Pro, Monoprice Monolith M1060, Philips Fidelio X2, Philips SHP9500, Sennheiser HD598, Sennheiser HD700, Sennheiser HD800, Superlux HD662 EVO, Superlux HD668B, Superlux HD669, Superlux HD681 EVO, Tritton Pro+ and Turtle Beach Ear Force XP Seven for gaming, and my recommendations for online/competitive shooters are AD700x and DT990, or HD668B if you're on a budget.
If you need sound isolation, then I recommend HD669 first and K52 second, but only if you need sound isolation. I don't recommend HyperX Cloud (II) because it has been surpassed by HD669, K52 and especially HD668B in sound quality.
Sound:
AD700x has a sound signature/profile with subdued sub-bass and emphasized treble. It has clean bass and a little harsh treble. It has a huge soundstage, excellent imaging, separation and clarity, and great detail retrieval.
DT990 has a sound signature with subdued sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass and very emphasized treble. The bass is clean. The treble is slightly splashy or overly sparkly and somewhat sharp. It has a huge soundstage and excellent imaging, separation, clarity and detail retrieval.
HD668B has a sound signature with subdued sub-bass, emphasized mid-bass and emphasized treble. It has clean bass and a little sharp treble. It has a large soundstage and very good imaging, separation clarity and detail retrieval.
Soundstage and imaging constitute positional audio. Soundstage is produced by the headphone and is how you perceive space and environment of sound, like virtual surround sound. Imaging is how accurately the locations of sounds/objects are reproduced. Separation is how you discern individual sounds from a range of overlapping sounds. This is only important in competitive shooters.
Sub-bass is how deep the bass goes and is where rumble comes from. For competitive shooters, you don't want this as it masks or overshadows sound cues. Mid-bass is where impact comes from. Generally, you also want as little mid-bass as possible, but this isn't a problem with DT990 or HD668B. How bright you perceive the treble, depends largely on how treble sensitive you are and what your point of reference is. In games, treble isn't as bright as it is in music.
 
Amplifiers:
These headphones should output loud volume levels for most people. If they don't for you, then the easiest solution is to use a USB sound card like Creative Sound BlasterX G1 or G5. G1 is the cheapest sound card I know of that officially supports PS4 and offers ample amplification for most consumer-grade headphones with the exception of the 600-ohm and maybe the 250-ohm version of DT990. For these, use G5.
It's possible to use an Astro MixAmp Pro TR or a Turtle Beach Elite Pro TAC with power-hungry headphones if you want those sound cards because of their game and audio chat balancing or other features, but it would require pairing them with a more powerful amp.
You can use a headphone amplifier and a DAC (digital-to-analog converter), but it's less convenient.
Some well-regarded options:
 
Microphones:
You can attach an Antlion ModMic or a Massdrop Minimic to the headphone. They don't have an in-line volume control, but you can use gadgets like these:
adjustR, BENGOO, Fosmon, Insignia, Lucid Sound AdjustR
 
Setup:
The ModMic attaches magnetically to a base that you stick to either earcup. The Minimic uses the same clasp system except with velcro instead. They're easy to attach and detach, especially the Minimic since it's modular. They have their own cable and operate separately from the headphone, so they're compatible with all headphones.
To connect the headphone and mic to the controller or other devices with a single jack, you need to use a TRRS Y-splitter. The Y-splitter must have three black rings on the connector.
You can connect the headphone and mic to the USB port on PS4 by using an audio USB adapter.
Sound BlasterX G1 anf G5 are plug-and-play. To use an amp and a DAC, you have to connect the mic to the controller with a TRRS Y-splitter or to the USB port on PS4 with an audio USB adapter, unless you use an amp that has a TRRS jack or a separate jack for the mic, like Mayflower ARC. Most sound cards have either of these. A sound card has an amp and a DAC built in and sacrifice sound quality for features. There's a common problem with reversed left and right channels when using USB DACs, so only use optical unless the DAC or sound card officially supports PS4. The headphone connects to the amp like usual. Amps and DACs can be bought separate or as combined units. You need a DAC because USB and optical are digital signals and PS4 has no analog outputs. If you get a separate amp and DAC, then you need RCA cables to connect them to each other.
To pair an amp with the MixAmp or Elite Pro TAC, it's probably easier to show you this image. This is a 3.5mm-to-RCA cable. The featured amp is Schiit Magni, which has been replaced by Magni 3. You can only use a separate amp, not a DAC and amp combo unit.
 
I'm almost out of space, so just ask me if you have questions.
ditch the origen, you can get a G5 for $112.50 and free shipping. Good dac, good amp, good mic input. You need to use the coupon code LABOR25 at checkout
http://us.creative.com/p/sound-blaster/sound-blasterx-g5
EDIT: nevermind you can get it on amazon for $96 ! https://www.amazon.com/Creative-BlasterX-Headphone-Amplifier-SB1700/dp/B018JUPY3A
> AMP/DAC that I can use with them that also has a mic input.
A DAC/Amp never has mic input, it only outputs sound but doesn't accept any audio input. What you are looking for is an external sound card or an audio interface.
the MMX300 has an impedance of 32 Ohm and a sensitivity of 96dB/mW....why don't you plug both connectors to your motherboard? This headset is very easy to drive and should work perfectly fine if you just plug it into the computer.
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Once you connect the MMX300 to the mainboard outputs.
So I decided to buy a sound card (G5) to try to combine it with the Mobius, because I thought it might help, but unfortunately it didn't work. So I was returning the sound card the next day, I was really set on returning the DT 1990 Pro too. However, during the night before returning the sound card tomorrow, I decided to give the DT 1990 one last try, since it seemed to be more compatible with the sound card. OMG, the DT 1990 just jumped by a couple levels of improvements, most probably because of the amp that's also in the sound card, because the DT 1990's volume is really low, even at 100%, I could only go up to 26% with the sound card. So at that last minute, the DT 1990 made a massive comeback and won the competition for me, of which headphone is better. In the end, I decided to stick with the DT 1990 because it was just on a whole new level of sound clarity, I'm not even hardcore when it comes to audio stuff, but even I could tell the difference, DT 1990 was just that good. After I returned the G5, I decided to upgrade to the G6, latest model, and now that's the setup I have now. Using my DT 1990, connecting it to the external sound card G6, then to my PC, its a really easy setup. I wanted an external sound card because I wanted a physical volume knob I can control with, instead of using some command on the keyboard or alt tab out to change the volume. A bit after that, I needed a new mic, since the Dt 1990 is just standalone headphone, I went with the Antlion wireless Modmic, and it is a really good mic too, I love it, I even wrote a review on it on Amazon if you wish to read it, got pictures included, it is under the same name as my Reddit name. I hope this has helped you to decide, let me know if you need to know anything else!
So I found these on sale:
https://www.reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/comments/cksomh/headphones_beyerdynamic_dt990_pro_250%CF%89_stand_and/
Is 80ohm better on these than 250? Someone also recommend this :
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-BlasterX-Headphone-Surround-Amplifier/dp/B018JUPY3A
Thoughts?
Because the PS4 is your primary usage with the HD800S, I recommend trying the Creative Sound BlasterX G5. This is entry level as a DAC/AMP combo unit but should work very well in your use case. This device is designed for consoles and PC usage and can produce very good audio from your PS4 (and PC) over a USB connection and it has separate 3.5 mm connections for the headphones and a mic (HD800S does not have a mic, but if you play online games with friends you will want to get something like the Antlion Audio ModMic to turn the headphones into a headset when you want to. If you get the G5, do not use the virtual surround sound SB-Axx1 and Scout Mode options, they are likely not as good as the standard audio output. An alternative to the Creative G5 would be a Schiit Audio Modi 2 DAC (connect to PS4 over optical instead of USB) paired with a Schiit Audio Magni 3 AMP. This "Schiit stack" as it is often called is less gamer focussed (no mic input, etc) but would still be fantastic for gaming and listening to music and is highly recommended in the audio community. You would need both the Magni 3 AMP and the Modi 2 DAC linked together to get sound - whereas you could alternatively use the all in on Creative G5. These options are audiophile entry level, but should impress you since you are so happy with the headphones on the PS4 controller already. I would try and recommend something more expensive, but honestly don't think you need that and I would have difficulty recommending more expensive devices since I dont have proper experience with that level of DACs and AMPs. TLDR; Get the Creative Sound BlasterX G5 if you want to use a mic on your PS4 with the headphones, and get the Antlion Audio ModMic to turn the headphones into a headset when you want to talk in games with friends and online gamers. If you dont need to use a mic on your PS4 and price is no matter to you (G5 is cheaper), then get the Schiit Audio Modi 2 DAC and the Schiit Audio Magni 3 AMP. Also, regardless of which DAC and AMP you get, get some nice cables off Amazon for USB or optical for your setup to connect from the PS4 to your couch/coffee table where you probably game.
I have the 598 and purchased this amp from Creative:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JUPY3A/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Boosts the sound tons, but keep in mind, it only supports surround on a PC, though trust me, with the Sennheiser 598 open ears, you won't miss it. It comes with an optical cable, so you can link the amp through the PS4's optical port on back, without taking up a USB port (or you can plug it into USB). I have it hooked up with my PC and PS4 and through the software, I can turn either on/off.
This seems to be popular
Hey folks,
I was looking to purchase an external USB sound card for my laptop so I can enjoy my FLAC audio on my laptop.
So far i'm between this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K1OOGRI/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A28128AMZ00PEQ&psc=1
and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JUPY3A/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER&psc=1
Can anyone vouch for these soundcards, or anything else? It will be very much appreciated!
I'm rocking either a ModMic/Headset combo or the ADG1X:
Antlion Audio ModMic 4.0 LINK
Note: If you have your favorite pair of headphones that you would love to have a mic on and convert it into a Headset, get the ModMic and apply it on!
Audio Technica ATH-AD900X Open-Back LINK
Note: Audio Technica ATH-AD700X Open-Back is a favored 2nd choice by me.
Creative Sound BlasterX G5 HD Audio External Sound Card LINK
Note: If you don't have a Sound Card and need something to drive your headset.
Audio-Technica ATH-ADG1X Open Air LINK
Note: This headset is Big Head Summit1G approved Kappa (Current headset he is using)
Hmm, I suppose you could try something like this, although based on the reviews the software has some problems.
What's your budget my good man? The M50s are just "meh" with gaming. However, you don't HAVE to get a new headphone yet. This is the only headphone amp/DSP you need for PC Gaming: http://www.amazon.com/BlasterX-G5-Portable-Headphone-Amplifier/dp/B018JUPY3A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1453840204&sr=8-1&keywords=sound+blaster+g5
I do not see any reason why not, in resolving your situation to purchase a decent USB sound card/adaptor. I'm partial to Creative Lab's stuff, but as I've haven't given a damn about high-end gaming for the past 8 years, I can't say Creative Labs is the best anymore.
Be forewarned, if you go cheap on the USB sound card, you wont ever use the quality of those $300 headphones. Yes it is mostly emulation sound from those headphones, but the maker did put effort.
Here is a Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Creative-BlasterX-Headphone-Amplifier-SB1700/dp/B018JUPY3A/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1483031059&sr=8-4&keywords=USB+7.1+sound+card+creative+labs) search for "USB 7.1 sound card" This Creative Labs one is about $120. Worth spending that much for an external USB sound hub, with all the connections you'll ever need. I have a old model that is USB2.0 ages old, that I used for DJing, with the RCA phono plugs, larger "fat" headphone plug, input & output SPDIFs., old but was only $50 at the time. (Creative Labs USB Sound Blaster Audigy2 External Sound Card Sound System)
With that said, your motherboard has a "base" model sound card. Because now-a-days we like to streamline our equipment. You have a HDMI port, which can carry audio to external devices. I used my older (8yr old) gaming rig as a HTPC in the entertainment room. The motherboard had every connection possible. So the back panel of that tower is packed.
Your board is designed to lessen the options you get. If you want better sound, you'll be replacing that motherboard or the whole computer.
However back to your immediate issue, USB sound cards are pretty decent, and you'll find the name/brand/model you want. Just don't go cheap on it.
Might be my soundcard (which you can use for console I think).
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-BlasterX-Headphone-Amplifier-SB1700/dp/B018JUPY3A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481392014&sr=8-1&keywords=sound+blasterx+g5
I've read that DACs can improve the audio of my laptop. How would it improve it compared with the built-in DAC? Also, what would be the best budget DAC? Or similar to this
If you're gaming and already have a headset with a mic, you may want to look into buying a PCIe sound card or a USB DAC intended for gaming use (most arent cheap).
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Otherwise you may get some lag between you listening to your audio output from one device, and your mic input going through another device (your motherboard).
The other suggestion of a Fiio d03k won't work for you - thats strictly a cheap one way SPDIF dac, no headphone output, no volume, no input!
You should probably ask this in one of the headphone or gaming subs (/r/pcgaming/ perhaps?). You have a different scenario than most of the readers here.
I see, well what about the Sennheiser Game One with a syba headphone amp. Or maybe This one since it seems more gaming oriented
Would that be a good combo? You did recommend the Game One in your open back options. That way I have the headset and mic together, which I would prefer. And I`ve had my current Sennheiser for 5 years, so it's known territory as well in quality.
​
Lately i've been thinking if I could run Xbox audio through an external soundcard and my laptop via optical line-in. Point of this is having better audio quality and having xbox and pc Audio on the same headset. Party can be run on the xbox pc app. I know it works with this one, having tried it myself on a diffrent setup. So there shouldn't be a problem doing the same with this external card and a laptop? Am I right?
I use this for my PS4 but u can use for PC and mobiles or what, Creative Sound BlasterX G5 7.1 Headphone Surround HD Audio External Sound Card with Headphone Amplifier for Windows PC/Mac / PS4 / and Other Consoles https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B018JUPY3A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kmoEDbXKE6WN7
[Problem Solved][Still need to try Fiio D3]
First of all thanks so much for those detailed yet easy to understand explanations.
Today I spent the day in search for a place where I could get a FiiO locally or something similar to it.
At first the closest thing I found to it was at Guitar Center and Sam Ash. From what I was told at one of the stores they only had Audio Digital Interfaces and not a simple Digital to Analog Audio Converter like the Fiio D3. I'm not even sure any of them there had Optical inputs which are a must for this problem.
I then decided to try a different brick and mortar store that is very popular all across the US. There I found a Sound Blaster G5 https://www.amazon.com/Creative-BlasterX-Headphone-Amplifier-SB1700/dp/B018JUPY3A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473987063&sr=8-1&keywords=sound+blaster+g5. This seemed to have exactly what I was looking for as far as inputs outputs but also came along with an AMP and access its own Sound Blaster software (Different Software than the SB Zx). I haven't tried installing the software since I don't plan on keeping it so I can't tell u if its as good as the Zx as far as that goes.
I get home with the mind set that I want to power it not using my PC and for the audio signal I only want to use the optical cables that come with it.
To power the G5 not using the USB from the computer u need a plug similar to what comes with cell phones now a days (plugs into wall outlet and then connect the USB cable that came with it to that and run it to the G5. I then connected the Optical cable out from my Sound Blaster Zx to the G5. This cable is a little weird, it s standard optical on one side and on the other it looks like a 3.5mm but with an optical light.
Finally, crystal clear sound with no HUMS, CRACKCLES and POPS!!!
I can't compare to how it sounded before because previously I wouldn't turn the knobs on the back of the LSR305 very high and I feel like this has a definite effect on the sound quality (Friend thinks it has to do with the amp inside the 305 not being utilized efficiently when the knobs are at low settings).
With that being said they speakers sound great now and I feel like they will only continue to grow on me. When I tried them at the store I thought they would give me no bass at all in my room but I'm actually impressed with how much of a nice tight clean bass these put out.
I have to add that I later tested plugging the power cable on the G5 to my PC and the noise was instantly back. Same with using a 3.5mm to 3.5mm cable instead of the optical cable.
I have ordered a FiiO D3 off of Amazon to use in the place of my G5 due to the huge price difference. Even though I was able to get the G5 on sale for $100 the FiiO is only $20. I will wait until I'm able to verify the FiiO works as I intend it to before returning the G5.
Lastly I have been able to verify that once I use the optical out of my Sound Blaster I completely lost the ability to use the Sound Blaster software for my Zx. At first I couldn't open it but once I enabled the Zx and then set the SPDIF as my primary it at least let me access the software. It doesn't matter though because no matter what you do in there it doesn't get applied to what you're hearing on the SPDIF line (JBL 305s).
Makes me wonder if it somehow has to do with both Sound Blaster devices conflicting and therefor would only work if I ran the G5 software instead of the Zx. The reason this is important is because I'd like for the Sound Blaster software to work with my FiiO but at the moment it's looking like a very long shot.
If this is the case does anyone have any recommendations on the best free software I could use for EQ and just overall basic sound adjustments?
I could not find any ground loop isolators, HUM destroyers etc locally so I don't know if they would've worked but I have a feeling it probably would've. With the risk of possibly effecting sound quality I didn't want to make this my first option.
Thanks again!
EDIT 1: Found out how to preserve my Sound Blaster Software using the optical. I just had to check the box in the Sound Blaster advanced features "Play stereo mix to digital output". At this point I can even disable the SPDIF-Out in the windows sounds settings if I wanted to and still get the optical to play to the "Speakers Sound Blaster Z" playback option which allows the Sound Blaster software to work.
Buy this for 80 instead. It will do exactly what you want (or buy it used for 75 from Amazon Warehouse). It will be AWESOME for movies and probably pop as well. (I don't use it for music, only movies)
https://www.amazon.com/Creative-BlasterX-Headphone-Surround-Amplifier/dp/B018JUPY3A