#25 in Internal solid state drives

Reddit reviews on Crucial MX500 500GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD, up to 560MB/s - CT500MX500SSD1

Sentiment score: 27
Reddit mentions: 52

We found 52 Reddit mentions of Crucial MX500 500GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD, up to 560MB/s - CT500MX500SSD1. Here are the top ones.

Sequential reads/writes up to 560/510 MB/s and random reads/writes up to 95k/90k on all file typesAccelerated by micron 3D NAND technologyIntegrated power loss Immunity preserves all your saved work if the power unexpectedly gets cutAES 256 bit hardware based encryption keeps data safe and secure from hackers and thievesCrucial 5 year limited warranty

Found 52 comments on Crucial MX500 500GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD, up to 560MB/s - CT500MX500SSD1:

u/Cyno01 · 373 pointsr/pcmasterrace

I gotta say, upgrading from even a 10k rpm HDD to a cheap SSD was the single biggest bang for buck computer upgrade i have ever made in ~20 years of building PCs.



u/Integralds · 25 pointsr/badeconomics

>While MMT provides an internally consistent and empirically robust account of the way the economy works, it also clearly challenges the way in which humans think about macroeconomic concepts. But through careful use of language and avoiding the established macroeconomic metaphors, we can develop a coherent understanding of the conceptual framework developed in this textbook.

My copy of Mitchell/Wray/Watts, Macroeconomics, has arrived.

My prior from Chapter 1 is that this book is not meant as an attempt to engage other macroeconomists in a debate over teaching strategies. [Yes, textbooks can engage with other economists, even at the 101 level. This is not a vacuous criticism.] This book is meant as an attempt to combat "MediaMacro," as u/besttrousers would put it. That's not necessarily a bad thing: I have long been of the opinion that one overarching goal of a good 101 book should be to teach students how to read the WSJ or FT or The Economist intelligently and critically.

This book is meant to equip young leftists with a language and a framework for making political economy arguments. The book has enemies; it lays them out for you to see in Chapter 1, and will be battling those enemies throughout the text. That may or may not be a bad thing, but it means the book isn't even bad economics -- it's just not economics at all. I withhold judgment as to whether it is good preparation for intermediate macro at the level of Blanchard or Williamson until after I've read the substantive chapters.

As such, as an economist, this book is likely to be terribly boring. I will soldier on regardless. Surely there are some economic arguments somewhere that I can pick at. However, it is difficult to decide what frame of mind I should be in when I read it.

Throughout, I will likely compare it to Cowen and Tabarrok's Modern Principles: Macroeconomics, which is a mostly mainstream but slightly offbeat textbook that ought to cover similar material. I do not have a copy of Mankiw's Principles text on hand, or I'd use that instead.

u/wumbotarian, this book cost me $65. As such, the opportunity cost of this book was one 500 GB solid-state drive. Here's hoping it was worth it. Or perhaps there was no opportunity cost, because the money was going to be "idle" anyway...

u/Computerknight54 · 17 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

I would get the MX500 over this in a heart beat. It is cheaper too actually https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0786QNS9B/?tag=pcp0f-20

u/sumwhatkiller · 7 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Refrain from using referral link formatting from now on. In this case,


would simply become


I stand corrected. Don't fucking listen to me. Thanks u/karmapopsicle

u/77xak · 6 pointsr/buildapc

Not exaclty sure what you're asking, but the 500GB MX500 is the same price as the dual WD green drives you were considering.

u/coololly · 6 pointsr/buildapc

The 860 evo is slightly faster (unnoticeable), but the main difference is much better endurance.

But this is the best choice:


u/Slayer_Blake · 5 pointsr/BuildAPCSalesMeta

for a nice SATA (m.2 SATA included) drive with dram... I would say $50-60 is average.... and paying more than $60 is paying too much.

for NVME, typically add $5-10

For a budget NVME, i would recommend the Sabrent Rocket for $59.99

for SATA i would recommend the ADATA SU800 for $57.99

you can also get the Crucial MX500 for $64.99 if you want something better.

Both the adata su800 and the crucial mx500 go on sale often at a pricepoint closer to $50


1tb is 90-110 typically

u/Scraps23 · 4 pointsr/MurderedByWords

Those specs are sub-par at best, and an absolute scam at worst. 8GB of RAM and 1TB of HDD for a $1700 machine?! There should be at least 16GB and an SSD for the OS at that price point.

In just 5 minutes I threw together an equivalent PC on Amazon for about half the price ($890: mobo, ram, gpu, cpu, hdd, display, mouse + keyboard, case.

Now how about you take a look at a PC with a similar price point? ($1680 : mobo, ram, gpu, cpu, ssd, hdd, same display, same mouse + keyboard, same case)

u/FlamingLizardGaming · 3 pointsr/suggestapc

I’m not Canadian, but I’ll try to help.

This PC is a great build with an awesome CPU and a decent GPU but lacks both an SSD and 16 gigs of RAM, both necessary for future-proofing. (The SSD is necessary now, but you can hold off with 8 gigs of ram) Sadly, I can’t find builds that are less than 1k CAD with anything similar or better than this with more RAM or an SSD.

I recommend getting a separate SSD like this. (You can always do the cheaper 250 gb variant for less money). I recommend this SSD because it is one of the fastest and comes with amazing Windows 10 cloning software. this guide is how I installed mine (just ignore the laptop specific parts like removing the battery. You can then order a SATA wire like this one to install your SSD. (If you don’t know where in the case you should put your SSD, just use 3M or double sided tape and tape it someone aesthetically pleasing on the bottom of the case.

The sata cables should be obvious where to install (on the right side of the motherboard, usually stacked on top of each other, slightly above or below the GPU), otherwise, you can look up your motherboard to find the SATA slots. Then just install the cloning software and follow the guide. When you need more RAM, look at the PCs ram slot and order another 8 gig stick (if there is only 1 stick of 8 gigs), otherwise, just order 16 gigs of any DDR4 ram you want. I’m sorry you need to do work to get a fully future proof machine, but remember this isn’t 100% needed, just highly recommended. (Plus you can save 100 bucks from your paycheck a few weeks from now for the SSD, you don’t need it the second u get ur pc. Good luck, let me know if you need any help!

P.S You don’t even need a big SSD, just something to hold Windows 10 and programs like Steam and Chrome. Big stuff like games can go on the HDD

u/MoogleMan3 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

The mx500 is the same price on amazon. Because of the longer warranty, I'd go for the mx500.

u/ihaveacrushonmercy · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Crucial SSD 500 Gb: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0786QNS9B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

USB to SSD SATA adapter: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B011M8YACM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And the YouTube video: https://youtu.be/-LB9TqfQrsA

Edit: Forgot to mention the software I used: https://www.disk-partition.com/free-partition-manager.html

Edit: Some SSDs will only work in PCs, but if you stick to getting what's called a SATA type SSD you will be fine :)

u/WilllOfD · 2 pointsr/playrust

here is a SODIMM stick that should match up with your trident 3 specs

here is a crucial mx500 500Gb SSD

You can get a cheaper/less space ssd like 128gb or 256gb If budget is an issue

Those two are all you need really

u/LoneKrafayis · 2 pointsr/buildapcforme

>MB is too old to have any SATA ports (but I could be wrong).

I really do not know how old a PC we are talking about, but any Sandy Bridge PC (late 2011) will have some SATA ports. SATA revision 2 was released in 2004 and should be on all the computers by 2009.

These Sandy-Bridge PCs are still relevant when given a high-quality SSD and a fresh install of Windows 10. If it only has 2 or 4 GB of main memory, you can add more to get to 8 GB. Using FireFox over Chrome is also a memory-saving choice (AFAIK).

Make a USB installer: https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

Buy a high-compatibility drive from a place with a good return policy: https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0786QNS9B (half the size was only a $15 savings)

Or, if you tell us the make and model, we can tell you if it is a good idea to try.

u/Pray_Plague · 2 pointsr/buildapc

Comparing yours and a Samsung 860 Evo 500 GB. It'll make a difference.


Go for a MX500 if you want it to be cheaper. Similar results compared to the 860 Evo.



u/KomputerIdiat · 2 pointsr/bapcsalescanada

Which ones are the MCLs? these are explained as confusing marketing since their 3bit MLC is TLC. Are their SATA SSDs just exactly the same as the Crucial, WD, Adata, Kingston, SanDisk, etc.

u/mayhem-8 · 2 pointsr/mac

Hi, The thermal paste we use at the Apple Authorised Service Provider I work for is this https://www.amazon.fr/ARCTIC-MX-4-2019-Refroidisseur-Dissipateur/dp/B07L9BDY3T/ref=sr_1_4?__mk_fr_FR=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=mx-4&qid=1567774785&s=gateway&sr=8-4. It is much better than the Apple thermal.

The Samsung EVO 860 you linked is an SSD we use for customers Macs, we also use the Crucial MX500, both are good SSDs.

The ram you linked is fine, we use Crucial ram but Crucial ram is normally more expensive.

u/ThunderAnt advice to make a bootable USB installer before repalcing the drive is a good idea as it won't rely on the internet during the install.

If you have the MacBook Pro 13" 2012 non retina then be extremely careful with the hard drive cable as it easily fails https://beetstech.com/blog/prevent-a1278-mid-2012-hard-drive-cable-failure

u/ItIsShrek · 2 pointsr/LukeMianiYouTube

Those tend to be DRAMless which isn't amazing for a boot drive

The Crucial MX500 has DRAM and is $10 cheaper than the equivalent Kingston SSD on Amazon at least. The MX500 tends to be the best price/performance for a SATA SSD. And it's cheaper than a Kingston.

u/raistlin65 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I would skip the mechanical hard drive and get a 500gb SSD instead. You can always add another drive once that one gets 75% full. This is better than the one you have https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0786QNS9B/.

If a combo is available, take the extra savings and get a 2600X. Not only is the 2600X a better processor than the 2600, but it has a better CPU cooler, the wraith spire. See this thermal performance comparison of the CPU coolers: https://www.techspot.com/amp/review/1635-amd-wraith-coolers-compared/

u/SlitheryBuggah · 2 pointsr/DestinyTheGame

Sure. In the UK but pretty sure prices will be similar or cheaper in the US.

Inateck 2.5 Hard Drive Enclosure, USB 3.0 External Hard Drive Case, FE2004 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00IJNDBM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0jgkDbPEJVKAT

Crucial MX500 CT500MX500SSD1 500 GB (3D NAND, SATA, 2.5 Inch, Internal SSD) https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B0786QNS9B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hlgkDbQHKN335

Crucial or Samsung ssd are best imo. Capacity depends on how much you want to use it. Destiny obviously benefits from it but other games can too

u/NintendoManiac64 · 2 pointsr/buildapc

A 250GB SSD by itself is a bit small for storage...you may want to consider going larger, especially since ~500GB SSDs such as one of the following can be had for not much more:

Storage | Crucial - MX500 500GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | €123.89 @ Amazon Deutschland


> Could not finde the Power Source and CPU-Cooler on pcpartpicker

Protip: PCPartPicker has a German localization with and local shops and according prices - just click the "United States" in the top right of any webpage on the PCPartPicker website.

It's quite possible you couldn't find the parts simply because they are not available in the US. But even if they're not listed on PCPartPicker Germany, you can still sue the "add custom part" function located at the bottom of your part list.


For example, here's what your current build looks like on PCPartPicker Germany; note that I manually added the price for the RAM since that isn't listed:

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

CPU | Intel - Core i5-8400 2.8GHz 6-Core Processor | €188.94 @ Mindfactory
Motherboard | Gigabyte - Z370 AORUS Gaming 7 (rev. 1.0) ATX LGA1151 Motherboard | €247.40 @ Mindfactory
Memory | Mushkin - Redline 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2666 Memory | €160.00
Storage | Samsung - 960 EVO 250GB M.2-2280 Solid State Drive | €116.85 @ Amazon Deutschland
Video Card | Gigabyte - GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB WINDFORCE OC 6G Video Card | €439.00 @ Caseking
Case | be quiet! - Pure Base 600 w/Window (Black/Orange) ATX Mid Tower Case | €81.99 @ Amazon Deutschland
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total | €1234.18
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2018-02-16 01:48 CET+0100 |

u/haloblossom · 1 pointr/buildapc

Update - In case anyone is interested in upgrading the SSD on this, this one is amazing! - https://www.amazon.in/gp/product/B0786QNS9B/ref=ox_sc_saved_title_6?smid=A14CZOWI0VEHLG&psc=1

I added 500GB of additional SSD on top of the M.2 stick that this laptop comes with. Now I have 500 + 128GB and it is beautiful!

u/Im_Chick · 1 pointr/buildapc

I actually read a couple forums about that SSD I picked being incompatible with some AMD chipsets, so I went with this one instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0786QNS9B/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1.

Seems like it would work just as well if we're talking about just boot time. Hopefully with the SSD and the HDD I wont have to worry about space... Now it's time to tackle my FPS problem with games. YAY

u/MCC1701 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Since I'm spending slightly less than I anticipated elsewhere I'm willing to go a bit more expensive. You're not the first person to recommend a 570 so I'm starting to feel that's the way I should go. However I'm finding out, there's a bit more to it than that. I've seen at least two "Radion 570s" with the same pricepoint but are obviously different, one above and the other on Amazon.

Maybe I just need to be educated on what the nuances of different video cards are. Both are $130, a bit above my initial GPU budget but worth it if the quality and longevity are there, however I'll need to read up on how to interpret GPU specs to determine which would be better for me.

As for SSDs, I just ordered one that looks to be pretty good. Honestly it might be more than I need but I figured I'd spend a little more to better future-proof myself.

u/Amokster · 1 pointr/buildapc

The two things that have killed every PC I've owned: heat and a blown PSU. The extra fans cost little overall but I may skip em. I can always grab em later if I decide to trying OC'ing I guess. I know the speakers are cheap, but I usually have a nice headset on. I just wanted a small set for a shared gaming space.

The M2 drive I found was only a cent or two more per GB than my usual Crucial SSD. Would it make any difference if I used it over this one?

u/GhostBond · 1 pointr/buildapc

Do you know that you need more than 500gb? An ssd is sooo much faster, and you're throwing away $42 on an hdd that could be put towards the ssd instead.

A lot of people don't actually use more than 500gb. If you use more later it's a lot easier to add a 2nd drive than it is to change the primary drive. ($70)

u/HunT3R775 · 1 pointr/IndianGaming

CPU: AMD RYZEN 5 3600 3RD GENERATION DESKTOP PROCESSOR @ 16499/- from Techmartunbox.com

RAM:G.SKILL 16GB (8GBX2) DDR4 – 3000 MHZ TRIDENT Z RGB SERIES RAM @8900/- from Techmartunbox.com

GPU- Galax RTX 2070 Super EX (1-Click OC) 8GB @ 41000 from mdcomputers.in

SSD- Crucial MX500 500GB SATA 6.0Gb/s 2.5-inch 7mm Internal SSD (CT500MX500SSD1) @ 5107/- from Amazon.in

PSU- Antec EARTHWATTS GOLD PRO 750W @ 7365 from mdcomputers.in

Motherboard- MSI B450 TOMAHAWK MAX MOTHERBOARD - 9999/- from techmartunbox.com

case- Antec Dark Avenger DA601 RGB (Black) @ 6100/- from mdcomputers.in

HDD- Seagate 1TB Barracuda 7200 RPM @ 2899/- from mdcomputers.in

total cost- 97869/- rounded off to 1 lakh because you have to pay delivery charge while ordering from mdcomputers.

You can add more storage if you want. Get an M.2 nvme SSD 250gb as your boot drive if you prefer.

Edit- You need around 40k for your peripherals because 2k monitors @ 144hz can cost upto 30000 or more. So it depends on your choice and 10k for a good mechanical keyboard, headphones and a mouse.

u/Zagerer · 1 pointr/buildapc

Hello! Currently, I have an ASUS X556UV-XX280T which has some years of use on it. I added a 240GB SSD but somehow it died. I have never had an SSD before but I don't think they last less than 90 days, so now that I want to buy another one, I'm debating whether I should buy one of the same (or ask for warranty to Kingston), or if either this one or this other would both fit and last longer. Could you help me pick one? I intended to get one for some games and to accelerate my PC (I found out the current HDD is really slow, tested everything) but now I intend to have it as main for everything as well as later migrate to a PC and if it somehow is able to work for a PC too, then that would be awesome though not needed.

u/WierdoYT · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Its nice yeah but id look up the specs and see if you can upgrade the CPU just in case you need more power along the line. 500GB fills up fast so maybe buy another 500GB SSD. Just don't get an HDD. There a whole lot slower. Btw, you can get a nice 500GB SSD for around $65 here's a link,


If you dont know much about installing things into a PC, check out some youtube channels like bitwit. He has a whole PC build guide.

u/bubblesort33 · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

I'd get the mx500 drive instead. Has dedicated cache, and is more reliable. It's not m.2 so it won't move large files as fast, but still far faster than a hard drive. Looking at game load times there is less than a 5% difference. It's mostly the long term reliability, especially if you plan to put an operating system on it, that's important.

I personally don't trust the XFX RX 570, 580 and 590 cards. If you don't use the DVI port you might be fine, but there was a lot of reports of it being defective in some way.

u/JadedReplacement · 1 pointr/buildapc

[MX 500 512GB $55](Crucial MX500 500GB 3D NAND SATA 2.5 Inch Internal SSD - CT500MX500SSD1 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0786QNS9B/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_z.b4DbDK2FTBS)

u/uenii · 1 pointr/bapccanada

Better build quality, higher sustained read and write speeds, less chance of early failure and better customer service in case you need to return it.

The Crucial MX500 is a solid middle to upper tier SSD and the odds of it lasting you a long time are very high.

That being said, there was a $54.99 Samsung 860 Evo 500GB deal @ Staples which sold out within an hour today, so I'd keep my eyes open on r/bapcsalescanada

u/Hollywoostarsand · 1 pointr/IndianGaming

Crucial MX500 have a SATA variation as well. Link

u/zenthrowaway17 · 1 pointr/buildapc

That's a good cooler for the 2600x. You'd have to spend a lot more than its £40 price tag to get a better white cooler. Not necessarily a bad long-term investment, but the 2600x doesn't really need it.

The b350m is a first-gen motherboard, so it didn't support the newer 2nd-gen ryzen CPUs by default.

If you happen to buy one that doesn't come with a recent-enough BIOS update, it won't work with the 2600x, and you'll need to use an older, compatible CPU to update it so that it would work.

B450 motherboards also support a better turbo boost feature for the 2600x (PBO or precision boost overdrive).

A lot of people report that this feature actually performs better for them than their own manual overclocking for many uses, especially with a little undervolting.

They're both good motherboards though, from what I've read.

On an unrelated note, MX500 SSD is only £50 at the moment for some reason. Worth it.

u/Harlodchiang · 1 pointr/buildapc

NVMe makes a small difference in load times for your OS. NVMe just isn't worth the extra cost.


I recommend the Crucial MX500 or WD Blue.





u/TheLastSnipper · 1 pointr/buildapc

Depending on how much storage you need





u/Bugzycow · 1 pointr/buildapcforme

do you know if the 500 gb ssd would fit in my mobo? also should i upgrade my cpu intel i5-4460 @ 3.2 gh and the mobo to his suggestion? is it worth it if not would the graphic card fit my current mobo? also do you have a alternative ram suggestion? his is out of stock thanks.

u/nakx123 · 1 pointr/bapcsalescanada

Whts the diff between this and the SATA III Ver? Also on sale for the same https://www.amazon.ca/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0786QNS9B/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541343994&sr=8-3&keywords=crucial%2Bmx500&th=1

And do you need a specific Mobo for this m.2 version?

u/PlumpAF · 1 pointr/bapccanada

IMO I would spend the extra $20 and either get an asus vg248qe or BenQ xl2411p. The acer one you listed has no tilt or height adjustment.

You could spend $10 more on your psu, get full modularity and 200w more..

The mouse you chose isn't the greatest, this is one of the best mice on the market for only $20 more. This is probably the change I would recommend most making.

Spend $30 more and get double the capacity of ssd

Overall very good build though

u/Rbk_3 · 1 pointr/bapccanada

Honestly it doesn't really matter. 1060 runs really cool so you don't need anything fancy. I would go with a 6GB version over a 3GB version.

Any cheap SSD will imprive things drastically.

This one is a great deal for 500GB for under $100

u/Roedrik · 1 pointr/computers

Those numbers dont mean anything, at least not in this context. More than likely there are a' lot of small random reads and writes which is whats causing the high usage. You can see that the average response time is about 32ms, which backs this theory up with multiple programs performing very small random reads/writes causing the head to constantly seek (and therefore the "low" 4mb/s shown in task manager).

Avast is most likely doing a scan, while Chrome is updating or caching data, plus Spotify loves writing data for some obscure reason, a year ago they had some weird bug that would write tens of Gb to a drive in an hour when playing music.

Just leave the PC be for a while, and see if it goes away, if it still doesn't something malicious may be happening, of course with the low costs of SSD's now that may be an alternative option too.

u/MazcuHS · 1 pointr/battlestations

> Asus MG279Q 27" 1440p 144Hz IPS https://www.amazon.com/27-inch-FreeSync-Response-DisplayPort-MG279Q/dp/B00ZOO348C/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Asus+MG279Q&qid=1568889772&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Dell P4317Q 43" 60Hz 4K IPS https://www.amazon.com/Dell-P4317Q-42-5-16-Microfiber/dp/B07RBBQBR6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Dell+P4317Q&qid=1568889797&s=gateway&sr=8-2
NZXT S340 Elite Black/Blue (can't find on amazon anymore. this would be the follower https://www.amazon.com/Nzxt-H510-Elite-Dual-Tempered-Water-Cooling/dp/B07C3SQPBB/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=nzxt%2Bh510%2Belite&qid=1568889894&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1 )
Asus ROG STRIX B350-F Gaming https://www.amazon.com/ROG-B350-F-GAMING-DisplayPort-Motherboard/dp/B071SGQP1Q/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Asus+ROG+STRIX+B350-F+Gaming&qid=1568889978&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Ryzen R7 1700 @3.8GHz https://www.amazon.com/AMD-Processor-Wraith-Cooler-YD1700BBAEBOX/dp/B06WP5YCX6/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Ryzen+R7+1700&qid=1568889999&s=gateway&sr=8-2
MSI GeForce RTX 2080 DUKE 8G OC https://www.amazon.com/MSI-RTX-2080-DUKE-8G/dp/B07GHXMMYF/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=MSI+GeForce+RTX+2080+DUKE+8G&qid=1568890061&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Corsair Vengeance LPX 2x8GB 3000MHz CL15 https://www.amazon.com/Corsair-Vengeance-3000MHz-Desktop-Memory/dp/B0134EW7G8/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Corsair+Vengeance+LPX+2x8GB+3000MHz+CL15&qid=1568890088&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Seasonic Focus Plus Gold 450W https://www.amazon.com/Seasonic-SSR-450FM-Semi-Modular-Warranty-Compact/dp/B0778XB7CK/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=Seasonic+Focus+Plus+Gold+450W&qid=1568890111&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Deepcool Captain 240mm White https://www.amazon.com/DeepCool-Captain-240EX-RGB-Liquid/dp/B076ZPCGYH/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Deepcool+Captain+240mm+White&qid=1568890122&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Kingston KC1000 1TB https://www.amazon.com/Kingston-Digital-KC1000-SKC1000-960G/dp/B072ZKXL8K/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=Kingston+KC1000&qid=1568890140&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Crucial MX500 500GB https://www.amazon.com/Crucial-MX500-500GB-NAND-Internal/dp/B0786QNS9B/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Crucial+MX500+512GB&qid=1568890157&s=gateway&sr=8-1
WD Caviar Green 1TB https://www.amazon.com/Digital-INTELLISTORE-Deskptop-1Terabyte-SATA2-SATA3/dp/B06XR3DDCB/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=WD+Caviar+Green+1TB+7200&qid=1568890187&s=gateway&sr=8-2
Fostex TR-90 https://www.amazon.com/Fostex-TR-90-80-Semi-Open-Stereo-Headphones/dp/B079L9ZC6Y/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=Fostex+TR-90&qid=1568890219&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Steelseries Rival 600 https://www.amazon.com/SteelSeries-Rival-600-Gaming-Mouse/dp/B078LJ6RPK/ref=sxin_2_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-c3RlZWxzZXJpZXMgcml2YWwgNjAw-ac_d_rm&keywords=Steelseries+Rival+600&pd_rd_i=B078LJ6RPK&pd_rd_r=7a919f32-0b30-4130-9085-a40d0767f6b2&pd_rd_w=X4QOW&pd_rd_wg=HVxsQ&pf_rd_p=d29bc9bc-49e2-46b8-bc05-387917c341ec&pf_rd_r=G61EGBMPSP2D2K7BTSVZ&qid=1568890240&s=gateway
QPAD FX90 (not on Amazon)
Ducky One TKL RGB Cherry MX Blue (Didn't fint the exact model. It's like this, but with RGB) https://www.amazon.de/Ducky-Backlit-Gaming-Tastatur-MX-Blue/dp/B078YHST8S/ref=sr_1_12?__mk_de_DE=%C3%85M%C3%85%C5%BD%C3%95%C3%91&keywords=ducky+one+tkl&qid=1568890765&s=gateway&sr=8-12
Microsoft LifeCam Studio https://www.amazon.com/Microsoft-LifeCam-Studio-1080p-Webcam/dp/B0042X8NT6/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Microsoft+LifeCam+Studio&qid=1568890851&s=gateway&sr=8-1
Yamaha AG06 https://www.amazon.com/Yamaha-AG06-6-Channel-Mixer-Microphone/dp/B00TY8JFSC/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Yamaha%2BAG06&qid=1568890863&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1
2x Genelec M030 https://www.amazon.com/Genelec-M030-Active-2-Way-Monitor/dp/B00CC36584/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Genelec+M030&qid=1568890884&s=gateway&sr=8-1
AudioTechnica AT2020USB+ https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Technica-AT2020USB-Cardioid-Condenser-Microphone/dp/B00B5ZX9FM/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=AudioTechnica+AT2020USB%2B&qid=1568890898&s=gateway&sr=8-4
TEAC TN-300 https://www.amazon.com/TN-300-Analog-Turntable-Pre-amplifier-Digital/dp/B00P9W6SUK/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=TEAC+TN-300&qid=1568890911&s=gateway&sr=8-4
Skagen Falster 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07H9FC6D3/ref=twister_B07TYFM5JV?_encoding=UTF8&th=1
Maxnomic Office Comfort Quadceptor OFC Brilliant Blue (a bit different stiching) https://www.amazon.com/MAXNOMIC-ERGOCEPTOR-Office-Slightly-Silver/dp/B07PQT4LD4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Maxnomic%2BOffice%2BComfort&qid=1568890959&s=gateway&sr=8-1&th=1

u/kggrm · 1 pointr/buildapc

Yes it's compatible, it's just telling you that if you use an M.2 SSD on the board that you will lose 2 of your 6 sata ports leaving you with only 4 left. M.2 drives are faster than the 2.5" version, but If you think you will need more than 4 sata ports, then you can opt for the 2.5" version of the SSD which costs the same price, and uses only one port, leaving you with 5 instead of 4. The 2.5" version of the drive is referenced in the link below.


u/GaStR_BlAsTr · 1 pointr/buildapc

I have a Crucial MX500. idk if that's good or not

u/AK-Brian · 1 pointr/overclocking

Alarming noises are generally not good news when there's a hard drive involved.

Some drives will provide advance notice of mechanical or media failures in the form of a SMART error. Download a program like CrystalDiskInfo (direct link to Windows download), which will show you the status information generated by your drive. If you see a Health Status which shows up as yellow or red (eg, "Caution"), this typically means that the drive is either unable to read or write a specific portion of the disk, or is failing in some other way (spin-up errors, etc).

Mechanical drives don't last forever, unfortunately, and laptop drives are especially prone to failure. They're constantly being moved about and jostled, and in my experience they tend to be less robustly constructed due to the inherent size and weight limitations.

If you do find that your drive is showing errors or signs of failure, back up your data. In fact, back up your data regardless. Use a cloud storage service like BackBlaze or iDrive or Livedrive, etc. Even free services such as Google Drive, Dropbox or OneDrive may be enough to save your important documents or photos, if you don't need a complete backup. A portable USB hard drive is another good option - for $50-100 you can pick up a small 1-2TB external drive. Most include software to help you mirror or otherwise create a backup copy of your data, as well. Being an external drive, you can also keep it somewhere safe (literally, inside a safe, or at someone else's house for safekeeping) in case something happens like a house fire, water damage, theft, etc.

Lastly, you'll want to swap out the laptop's failing drive. Depending on how old the laptop is, you might be able to install a solid state drive to replace the original mechanical drive. There are many benefits to going with a solid state drive - no noise, less power usage, less heat, resistant to drop damage, extremely fast file access. The only downside is that they are more expensive than traditional hard drives for the same equivalent capacity. A 1TB mechanical drive may only cost $50 while a solid state might cost $110, for example. If you don't need a big drive, you can find good 500GB SSDs for about $60-70 or so. One example is Crucial's MX500. Another is Samsung's 860 EVO.

The process of copying your drive's contents onto a new SSD or new internal HDD is a bit trickier, especially with a laptop. Some have the ability to use two hard drives, but others only have one slot, which means you'll need a way to connect both drives at the same time. The solution? A little USB adapter cable. This will let your computer access the new drive, allowing you to create an exact copy (clone) with a program like Macrium Reflect. After you've cloned your drive, you can remove the old drive, place the new drive inside, and be back in action.

u/Sohcahtoa82 · 1 pointr/wow

> Also the game is not on an SSD

This is 100% the problem.

Especially since:

> Ram: G.Skill - Ripjaws V Series 8 GB (2 x 4 GB) DDR4-2400 Memory

8 gig is not a lot of RAM these days for a gaming machine. I'd recommend 16 gig for the sweet spot in terms of price vs performance. 32 gig is nice to have if you're like me and leave up 30+ browser tabs open.

But you'd see a greater performance bump with an SSD. These days, it's crazy NOT to have one as they're relatively inexpensive. You can get a 1 TB SSD for under $100 now. If you want to save a few dollars, get a 500 GB SSD for $65.

If your motherboard supports it, and you've got some money to blow, I'd recommend the 1 TB WD Black NVMe for $220. This thing is blistering fast, with read/write speeds of up to 3 gigaBYTES per second. They also have a 500 gig model for $100.

Seriously though, hard drives are very slow. Even under ideal conditions, read speeds are typically very fast, and their latency is really bad compared to an SSD, even on a 7200 RPM drive. Those stutters can easily be caused by needing to load some data off the hard drive and the game pauses while fetching it. Or, because you only have 8 gig of RAM, it needs to page some data in or out. An SSD would vastly improve both scenarios, an NVMe more than doubly so.

u/xandarg · 1 pointr/buildapc

The MX 500 is one of the more popular SATA SSDs. I can definitely recommend that one. If your mobo has an M.2 slot, then you might consider one of these much faster SSDs for similar price.

Oh god, I just tried to find them on Australian sites... You poor bastards...

Well, I guess read this review of the BX 500. It doesn't seem like a bad choice, if that's your budget.