Reddit mentions of Cutters - Xuron Micro-Shear Flush 410

Table, chairs, box of pens, box of sharpies: ~$200 from staples, free delivery, your ass will thank you.
http://www.staples.com/Sudden-Solutions-6-Standard-Grade-Resin-Folding-Banquet-Table/product_749944
http://www.staples.com/Staples-Steel-Folding-Chair-Black-with-Luxura-Seat-4-Pack/product_886001

Amazon:

• An Amazon prime account on works dime. It will save them more than $80 in shipping costs. Or see if you can expense your personal one, because why not?
  
• Locking retractable razor blade, 100 pack of blades, pointy tipped. Throw the blades away the second they feel like they aren't a hot knife through butter. It's pennies per blade.
  
• P-Touch Label maker w/ AC adapter. Lots of labels. Don't cheap out, get the bigger one. No excuses not to label everything this way. (~$150-200. Buy batteries in bulk too, regular energizer/duracell, not the cheap ones not the expensive ones.)
  
• A good driver, hex shank, 6" or 12" extension, a fistful of not-the-cheapest philips bits. Spare battery, and whatever you need to charge them. ~$150-200 (Remember your DC might be 208v power, and US chargers are 110v only.)
  
• Laptop charger to leave in the datacenter. If you have multiple types of laptops, then buy one charger for each one. $79
  
• These shelves to put all of the above mentioned junk in, I own like 6 of them: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001O4A42K/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1
  
• 1000 pack of zip ties, single size, and a huge multipack of the other sizes.
  
• Micro cut sheer flush cutters. A billion of them. http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=sr_1_cc_2?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1374340061&sr=1-2-catcorr&keywords=flush+cutter
  
• Amazon basics apple dock + lightning cables.
  
  A fist-full of the cheap $1 philips and flathead screw drivers from home depot.
  
  Monoprice: Pigtail adapters for your PDU's to go from c14 to 5-15R. Almost every electronic device these days is universal power (90-240v, 50/60hz.) The notable exception is your driver charger. Never order fewer than 5 of anything. 10 for ethernet cables. On that note, order 2x 50' ethernet cables, and 10 of every other length and color you might need. Some long micro usb cables for phone charging. $100 extremely well spent.
  
  http://www.monoprice.com/products/product.asp?c_id=102&cp_id=10228&cs_id=1022804&p_id=1302&seq=1&format=2
  
  Pole-style crash cart. Your own crash cart is worth its weight in gold, and one you can't leave shit on is worth another weight in gold because it cannot get messy and junked up. $350? I forget.
  
  All in all $1500 worth of stuff you will see once a year at best. However your on-site techs will never spend much if any time rooting around for tools. Do not travel with this stuff, buy one kit per colo site.
  
  Also never let anyone tell you square-holed racks are bad. Order 1000 extra fasteners and nuts. This is on top of whatever you need to mount the stuff you know about. Only ever order one type. Throw away any fastener kits which come with your equipment because they might be slightly different. Remember 1000 fasteners is only 125 rack units assuming top, bottom, front, back, left, right. It's fewer still if you put in the center locking one. Have them toss in a cage nut tool, or learn to use a small flathead. Blood for the datacenter gods. Eventually you get extremely good at them and will stop cutting yourself.
  
  Now off the reservation: Wifi router (buffalo) $80 prime, network printer (Brother, use the wired connection) $125 prime, ream of paper ($10, prime or staples).
  

I would get a pair of flush clippers

https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=sr_1_12?keywords=flush+clippers&qid=1556217849&s=gateway&sr=8-12

Like any hobby the initial cost to start will always be high. You may be tempted to buy cheaper tools but whats the point if you plan on building Gunpla for a while and will end up replacing them. If you only want to build 1-2 kits then you can get away with 2 dollar clippers and a box cutter but it won't give you good results.

Despite the cost these are still the tools I recommend that EVERY Gunpla owner who doesn't plan on painting their kits purchase

A) Tamiya 74035 Sharp pointed side cutters, worth every penny

B) Xuron 410 Side Cutters, very durable at an affordable cost

C) X-Acto X3000, Comfort rubber grip, comes with 2 blades

D) 3 Fine tipped Gundam Markers, Black, Grey and Brown

E) Krylon Acrylic Flat Coat, large can for only $5-6


And that's it.

1. Use the Xuron side cutters to cut the part off the runner. Cut on the fat part (the runner) not the thin part next to the part (the gate). This will decrease the stress on the plastic and will maintain the sharp blade on your more expensive Tamiya side cutters.
   
   2)Use the Tamiya cutters to cut the remaining nub, with practice you can get it practically flush to the part.
   
   
   3)Clean up the nub with a hobby knife. You don't need sandpaper or a file if you did the steps above correctly and the flat coat will mask any scratches.
   
   4)Use the Gundam markers for lining
   
   
2. Apply your sticker (peel one of the corners and then "scoop" and apply it using the hobby knife, no tweezer needed).
   
   6)Finally finish with a top coat
   
   Total cost with amazon prime is $65. Yes the Initial cost is high but the tools above will last you for 20+ kits (you will need to buy more blades and flat coat). If you really can't afford that you can save up for the Tamiya sharp pointed side cutters and use the Xurons in the mean time (you will have more work to do).
   
   So $38-65 initial investment to me is really not that expensive
   

Side cutters / nippers / these things to cut the parts off of the runners: Link

One of the most essential gunpla tools. You have an Xacto knife to trim off the remaining plastic after you cut it off and you have a file to sand off that little nub that's left over.

While not essential I would recommend getting some fine grit sandpapers. I built my RG RX-78 with no paint and only using fine grit sandpaper and polishing sandpaper (max is 2000 grit) and it looks pretty good.

If you're looking to do a straight build, all you need are the knife, a file, and side cutters.

These are way better - the exact pair I have had for the past four years or so. They're pretty small so they can get into tight places, also don't take up as much room in the tool box.

Ok, I see this is a bit touchy lol. But it's definitely worth investing in some form of set of tools eventually. Start small. A pair of cutters like this will do wonders in the beginning. A little sandpaper, you can get from the dollar store if you want. And a marker, if you really want to stay cheap with it, you can use a crayola marker and wipe away excess with a tissue or q-tip.

I want to share my hobby with someone who wants to get started, but remember, it is a hobby and it is still a model. It's part of what makes the experience awesome. You can start small and always revisit a kit if you want to make it look better. You don't need the marker or pen, but it does add a new dimension to the kit. An X-acto is recommended, but not required. The motor control happens with time and patience.

But I digress, just remember, this is a model. Like any other model, you can make it look amazing, but you need to also put forth the effort. Good luck on your kit and remember, it's about having fun lol. Or else why do it in the first place?

On the miniatures wargame? video games? or lore?

I'm going to assume the miniatures tabletop wargame since that's the main focus of this sub...

There are many ways to enjoy the hobby. That's probably the most important thing to realize at first. For most people Warhammer is a hobby, not just a game you pickup and play. There are a few board game like games in the warhammer pantheon that are less of a full blown hobby, but still require some model building before play. For the most part Warhammer (or tabletop wargaming in general) becomes a full on hobby that takes a good amount of free time. That's the point of a hobby really, to enjoy your free time doing something other than just mindlessly watching TV.

First thing to do is decide which of the many Warhammer games you want to play. For you, this is likely easy, as you have a friend trying to get you into it.

After that, you'll want to decide on a faction to play within the game you friend is playing. Examples are Space Marines, Daemons, Orks... To decide you'll want to look at the model ranges and read a little of the lore/story behind them. Pick whichever one calls to you, whichever seem "cool."

Once you've decided on a faction, you'll start small. Assembling and painting a single box to see if this is enjoyable for you. Pickup either a single starter box that includes your faction or a "Start Collecting Box".

Startup costs are not insignificant as there are tools and supplies you'll need. But once you are going the main supplies you'll need are expanding your paint collection and replacing brushes.

• Flush cutters to remove parts from the sprues. You can get fancy here but don't have to. A sub-$10 Xuron will give you quality cuts and be dependable at a third of the price of the nice (but $$) Game Workshop clippers.
  
• Files or scraper to smooth out the sprue marks (Durasand Twigs - Blue are my goto. I've got high praise for the Games Workshop Moldline remover tool, but it's an expensive early purchase.
  
• Plastic glue (aka plastic cement) to put the parts together. Tamiya Extra Thin or Deluxe Plastic Magic are my goto glues. They have brush on applicators making the glue less messy and more precise.
  
• A can of White, Grey, or Black spray primer to prepare the models for painting. Inexpensive Rustoleum or Krylon from a hardware store/walmart works well for your first set of models. Stick to White or Light Grey if you plan to use the new easy to use Citadel "Contrast" paints. Don't forget a mask to protect you a bit from the fumes of spraying the primer and later the varnish.
  
• Half a dozen to a dozen model paint colors to start out. Citadel, Vallejo, Reaper, or Army Painter are excellent model paints with a good range of prices. Paints are a big upfront cost, but thankfully model point pottles/pots last a long time. If you decide you want to paint like the box art, Citadel paints match up with games workshop tutorials. Otherwise, any of them well do.
  
• Eventually, you'll also want a spray can matte varnish to seal/protect the models. That way paint won't come off on your fingers as you play. Testors, Army Painter or Citadel make a good spray varnishes.
  
  .....
  
  If you are less into the hobby idea, but still want to play some tabletop games with Warhammer miniatures, look at the Warhammer Underworlds line. it plays like a mix of miniatures game, deck building, and boardgame. But the models are already pre-colored plastics and push to fit, so no glues or paints needed to play. Just clippers.

I just started after 20+ years, literally got my stuff yesterday in the mail. I decided to go warhammer 40k, space wolves.

I read alot before I made any decision, these two links helped me a bit:

http://www.reddit.com/r/warhammerFAQ/comments/1nzxps/the_definitive_guide_to_getting_started_in/

http://www.reddit.com/r/warhammerFAQ/comments/1nzzag/the_definitive_guide_to_getting_started_in/

From a painting perspective I started with these:

http://www.reddit.com/r/warhammerFAQ/comments/msf23/guide_to_painting_warhammer_models_part_i/

http://www.reddit.com/r/warhammerFAQ/comments/mtz5u/guide_to_painting_warhammer_models_part_ii/


I also watched a TON of painting tutorials and product reviews on youtube.

That being said, here's what i've got so far:

Brushes:

Windsor and Newton Series 7 size 00, 0, 1
Army painter wargamer regiment - for base coating stuff

Paints/Modeling Materials:

I went with citadel b/c Im following the codex color scheme. GW has paint bundles for the type of army you are building. Many others use Vallejo and reaper paints as well.

Green stuff/liquid green stuff - I need to buy this to fill in some gaps I have in my models.

Tools:
Xacto knife and blades

Micro clippers - http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1427198666&sr=8-3&keywords=micro+clippers

There are many other tools you can get, depends on how far you want to go. Hopefully it helps.

Probably flush cutters like these and a set of files to smooth the cut areas are your best option.

My gf found a pair of those Fiskars scissors at one of the crafty stores around here. Changed my wick trimming life.

One other thing that changed my rebuilding life that you're missing in your list, however. Flush cutters.

http://www.amazon.com/BeadSmith-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ

I'm really sorry you've lost your fingers. That's so horrible. I myself work in a shop using powertools on a daily basis so I know the risk and how easily it can happen, it's one of my greatest fears and I wouldn't wish it on anyone. I hope you're coping alright all things considered.

There are definitely resources out there for you and people who can help. Here is one, I know there are more out there. I think there's one in particular I couldn't find.

Here's a list of a bunch of .stl databases.

Here's another list.

There's probably some overlap in those but that should help. I googled 'list of 3d model repositories' to find those, you may find more with similar searches like '.stl databases'. Add 'medical' or 'prosthetic' in there too, combine them and you should find some helpful search results.

There are also places online you can pay people to print stuff for you. But honestly if you find a model that you think works for your hand situation, please pm me! I would love to print it for you and send it to you probono if you want something from asap until you can print your own (I imagine you probably will have alterations you'd like after the 1st attempt) after you've figured out your printer. I'd be happy to help you get started as well if you have any questions at all. I have gone through the initial learning curve myself for about 2 years now so I know what you're in for challenge-wise. Check out the r/3dprinting subreddit, there's a lot of helpful folks over there, there also might be a specific subreddit for your exact printer. Yep, just checked, I believe it's r/MPselectMiniOwners. I've also gotten lots of help from 3dprinting discord channels (namely '3dprinters') Discord is a chat server program incase you're unaware.

Tools and materials wise, you will need only a few basic hand tools and filament. PLA will probably do just fine for your situation (you can use more durable filament later, PLA is just the easiest to work with and best for prototypes. Hand tools that I use are a metal spatula like these, and a pair of snips like these. I also regularly use 99% (highest % is best) isopropyl alcohol to clean my printbed surface. Also get a nice gluestick to help print adhesion to the printbed surface if you run into adhesion issues. That's about it, I have other tools and stuff I use but those are my most frequently used. You might want to get a decent set of hex head wrenches these are the ones I use, they work a lot better than allen 'L' style hex wrenches for working on your machine. That's assuming your machine uses hex head nuts though.

Also, Fusion 360 is the program I'd recommend looking into if you're trying to do your own modelling. It's actually pretty easy to learn, I used a site called udemy.com which offers cheap lessons (~$10 a course sometimes cheaper) that are very helpful. Fusion 360 is free for hobbyists.

Seriously though, please don't hesitate to pm me, I'd love to help you out if you're interested in that. :)

No offense, but your title implies nail clippers are the #1 way to remove nubs for model kits, when they are definitely not. As someone who used nail clippers to remove nubs since building Tomy Zoids in the early 2000s for over 15 kits, I had become experienced (and tired) with them.

They leave terrible gash marks, are uncomfortable to use after working on a kit for hours at a time, cannot reach into odd spaces which you mentioned, and can get dull after a short while if you work on kits occasionally as well as clip your nasty-ass nails.

Maybe you have fancy nail clippers that are comfortable, are extremely sharp, and cheap, but I imagine most people have ordinary dull nail clippers meant solely for cutting nails.

These side cutters have been with me since I started the hobby last year. I've been through 9 kits in varying grade and they haven't stopped being a good tool. I've also used them for cutting brass rods, paper clips, wood, etc.

If you really really prefer them over proper cutters then I can't be one to judge, but in the long run a good pair of nippers will be your best friend (along with your hobby knife)

This is a very useful tool and will significantly cut down the work time you spent. However, I think that this will serve you better in the long run as it will contain a lot of the basic tools that you will need for this hobby.

You can use either type of switch.

That being said, I'd recommend that you use plate-mount switches. Many people do use PCB-mount switches, but they're not really necessary since the switches fit quite snugly into the plate, and the plate is made of beefy stainless steel. Besides, if you use the PCB-mount switches, you'll have a bugger of a time getting them to sit flush on the PCB since those leg holes are smaller than the legs themselves.

One thing to note: if you've bought Zealios for your planck, I highly recommend clipping those legs for best results. You can use a pair of flush cutters to clip those things off quite nicely. (This is what I use on my Zealios.)

EDIT: Re-read your question. Hope this is a better answer.

Ah, okay. Still, super glue isn't a bad option for plastic.

Oh! The one other optional thing I forgot would be some kind of epoxy putty. It comes in strips of two colors, which you knead together to activate it so it will eventually harden. It's used to fill in gaps where you fit together pieces that don't fit together quite right (or imperfections in the model). The most common is "green stuff" made by GW (though I've seen other brands). Again, totally optional, but you can keep it in mind if you have a model that didn't come together quite right and you'd really rather fix it than let it be.

The way you thin your paint isn't the thing that's going to clog your brushes. Much more important is how you use and maintain the brush. Try not to get the paint deep down into the ferrule (the part where the bristles meet the handle), like by pushing the brush down hard onto the palette or model. Also, be sure to clean your brushes when you're done! A little soap and water is plenty. Some people occasionally use conditioner (it is hair, after all). I use this. It's great because you can soap up the brush after you get the paint out of it, reshape the point, and let it dry. It helps keep the brush in the right shape.

As for clippers, I just picked up the ones my local hobby shop had in stock. Xuron. They've worked great, and cut through plastic and metal nice and neat. Again, one of those things that are nice to have but not strictly necessary. You could also probably use something cheaper, as long as you don't try to get too precise (which might go off and scratch the model). Most board game minis won't have any use for them, but they'd be handy for something that comes on sprues like KDM.

And I'm glad to help! Let me know if you have any more questions. You can also go to /r/minipainting for more.

So ideally you go to a local hobby store and look at what models they have, then pick one you like and within your price range. You can start off with 1/144 scale HGs (High Scale), but I am a firm believer that if you can follow instructions, you can start at any scale and any grade. I am a sucker for kits with cool box arts (like the MG Shin Musha). Get a pair of side cutters to help with [piece from tree removal] (http://www.ghostofzeon.com/diy/assembly/removingparts.html). Obviously, shop around to get a good price. There are a wealth of useful links and threads on right hand column under "Current Events" (not sure why it is under current events...) Other model kits include [Zoids] (https://www.amazon.com/Zoids-Japanese-Kotobukiya-Model-RZ041/dp/B003UTUEVI/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1481057397&sr=1-1&keywords=zoids), Evangelion, and even [Batman] (https://www.amazon.com/SpruKits-DC-Comics-Batman-Arkham/dp/B00L5KKUR2/ref=sr_1_3?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1481057500&sr=1-3&keywords=batman+model). There are also like tanks and planes and battleships...

Xuron makes a set of plastic nippers that are more than acceptable for beginners and will last you until you decide to upgrade.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_mAKQyb4XASNKF

I use flush cutters to snip the parts out of the sheets for the most part. Here is an example.

For bending tabs I use a precision plier set and sometimes small tweezers.

You should only cut zip ties with flush cutters. http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ

Otherwise cut the sharp part off with a knife.

Flush cutters. This pair and this pair are the industry standard workhorse. Absolutely essential tools.

PanaVise clamps are a must have. This one and this one are my favorites.

A manually operated solder sucker will be an important buy as well.

IMO best way to depin, use http://amzn.com/B000IBOOWQ

Can do rx in like 20 seconds and looks just about as good.

^ I started about a week ago and this is where I started.
His recommendations are solid and all of the tools are amazing so far.

Only thing I switched out was the snipperz because I had heard that these last longer(?) but I have never used any others so I wouldn't know.

4 Kits in and still going strong.

I like these kind of flush cutters personally, they have a really nice and fine nippers that can get in there and cut plastic in little corners.

You will need "side cutters".

Lots of us would recommend:

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381645308&sr=8-1&keywords=xuron+side+cutters

or

http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381645308&sr=8-2&keywords=xuron+side+cutters

To start off with. Then you can upgrade, if you want to, to heavy duty cutters later on.

To the right on the subreddit, check the useful links for... useful links!

I have a pair of these and they're amazing.

How do you think this set compares to the Tamiya one?

I noticed in the pics of that set that it included a Xuron cutter. Would I get a better cutter with this particular Xuron cutter than the generic one included in the set?

I also have this for a pen knife and this for a file set picked out so I would have 3 main tools (cutter, pen knife, and a file set) for $22.14 total all with 2-day Prime shipping available (so I won't have to stare at an unopened box of Freedom 2.0 for a month waiting for deliveries from Japan).

Would I be missing something crucial if I went with just 3 individual tools above and are there better options for the money (that I won't have to wait a month for)? Any input on all this would be greatly appreciated.

That's great to hear! I guess if I'm not happy with the result, I could always go back and fix it. Although Would it be better to go with another 00 then rather than a RG? Considering this would be my first time that is?

Also I was planning on buying the ones the guide linked to on Amazon:
Xuron 410 Micro-Shear Flush Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WjCIzb3B9QYHJ

Cut with these

Sand with this

Fill in stressed plastic with these

It sounds like, for your uses, you want precision pliers such as those made by Lindstrom or Xuron and not so much Klein or Channellock (who make tools for tradesmen).

Something something Kingdom Death...

Of the three I don't think any can compare to GW, especially considering GW uses plastic almost exclusively. Infinity makes some nice models but I was never a fan of painting pewter.

You'll pretty much always have to clean mold lines and fill gaps though. Even GW and KD, both do amazing work in plastic, have mold lines that should be cleared and gaps filled.

Make sure you're using the correct tool for clipping. You'll want a flush cutter like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=pd_sbs_21_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000IBOOWQ&pd_rd_r=5KJZ0XRMB3R7355FNZAN&pd_rd_w=blY62&pd_rd_wg=jYgcH&psc=1&refRID=5KJZ0XRMB3R7355FNZAN

I would go with http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-170-II-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBSFAI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1370150182&sr=8-1&keywords=xuron or http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1370150182&sr=8-3&keywords=xuron I personally use the latter of the two.

Have you tried using a pair of flush cutters? They have a narrower jaw point and are mainly designed to cut copper with. http://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ
Something like those

For cutters, I use these: Xuron Side Cutters. I also use an xacto-branded hobby knife. I'll use 2-3 blades on a HG kit, and probably double that on an MG. You can never have too many blades.

I have some sand paper (800, 1000, 2000 grit), but I rarely use it unless I paint.

If you want something better than a pair of fingernail clippers.
I bought a pair of these microshears. Best tool for the job.

Please don't feel intimidated. I'm getting into gunpla again after like 10 years myself. The only intimidating thing is getting the equipment needed and knowing some tips on how not to screw some little things up. I personally use these clippers and I also use an xacto hobby knife with #17 blades. Just go slow and cut the pieces from the mold with the clippers leaving some leftover plastic that you can take off with the hobby knife. All those kits you mentioned sound good in terms of starting out. Any newer HG kit for that matter is probably a good start. You might want to look into getting some ultra fine tipped Gundam Markers for panel lining too. Have fun!

I think its way better than the xuron and tamiya ones that I own these two:
xuron
tamiya

Next time get some flush cutters to trim the zip ties. Smooth cut every time if you do it right.

Yep, that's gonna be a pain to cut without a laser, water jet, or edm. Dremel is probably your best bet, the nibblers won't be fine enough. If the sheet is thin enough you might be able to use clippers. Maybe something like https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ? I've never tried.

Edit: at .008" you can definitely get away with the flush cutters. Heck, you might be able to get away with nail
clippers.

Just use something like this it should be fine - https://www.amazon.com/Xuron-410-Micro-Shear-Flush-Cutter/dp/B000IBOOWQ

For me the benefit of better plant health with more ventilation is cheap compared to the price of a pot :)

Don't buy wire cutters. What you want are flush cutters; Xuron 410 Micro-Shear Flush Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000IBOOWQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UGAEybYWNV2D7