Reddit mentions of CyberPower CP850PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 850VA/510W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower

If I'm spending a couple grand on equipment, I'll gladly pay $100-200 to keep it from getting fried. It will also safely shut down your computer in the scenario you lose power. I went with the 1500VA/900W model. Which is waaay more than I need, but allows for adding more equipment in the future. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N18S/

I don't have the one you linked to but I have one similar.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N18S/ref=oh_details_o03_s01_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It's pretty awesome. I have it set up with a VM on my ESXi box to automatically shut the entire machine down in the event of a power failure. Also does email notifications. Completely silent and plenty of information available on the little screen. Probably the best investment I have made.

Something along those lines. Unfortunately, some audio equpiment can be sensitive to the artificial sine wave they produce, but I'd start with something around that price point and move up to something like this if you run into problems.

CyberPower CP850PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS System, 850VA/510W, 10 Outlets, AVR, Mini-Tower ($99.95), looks like lowest price ever)

Edit: Lowest ever if you forget to change your time scale from 1 month back to All.. still a decent price

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N18S/ref=emc_b_5_t?th=1

Is your goal to actually run it for any period of time, or to just be able to shut down properly if you lose power? I run this thing (510W version) for my setup, backing up my R9 Fury eGPU, minor peripherals and three monitors (two 4K, 27 and 31" and one older 20 incher). Note that it provides pure sinewave output: Cheaper units do not and may cause a problem with certain electronics. I did not measure how long it should last when the power cuts out, but it it is definitely enough to shut things down cleanly, even without doing that in a massive hurry. In general, a GTX1060 doesn't consume over 150-160W of power, or 200W for higher-end OC models - Let say 220W after AC/DC conversion inefficiency. A monitor eats up around 20-40W. The Beast has a negligible power consumption. End result, you can easily use a 300W UPS unit for a clean shutdown. Just make sure to get a Pure Sinewave output one.

476W peak power. Maybe more if you have the CPU overclocked. You'd be ok with an 850VA UPS.

PCPartPicker part list / Price breakdown by merchant

Type|Item|Price

----|:----|:----
CPU | Intel Core i7-4790K 4.0GHz Quad-Core Processor | $334.99 @ SuperBiiz
Motherboard | MSI Z97 PC MATE ATX LGA1150 Motherboard | $87.98 @ Newegg
Memory | G.Skill Ripjaws Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) DDR3-1333 Memory | $103.99 @ Newegg
Storage | PNY XLR8 240GB 2.5" Solid State Drive | $115.55 @ Amazon
Storage | Western Digital BLACK SERIES 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive | $118.99 @ Newegg
Video Card | Gigabyte Radeon HD 7970 GHz Edition 3GB Video Card |-
Power Supply | EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 750W 80+ Bronze Certified Semi-Modular ATX Power Supply | $64.88 @ OutletPC
| Prices include shipping, taxes, rebates, and discounts |
| Total (before mail-in rebates) | $836.38
| Mail-in rebates | -$10.00
| Total | $826.38
| Generated by PCPartPicker 2016-12-21 11:22 EST-0500 |

If the power in your area is pretty stable yeah this would do fine though if it's a bit sketchy or you get storms that can knock it out I would look into a better-rated one(example) or into a Pure Sinewave UPS(example) if you get frequent outages.

A UPS with a pure sine-wave will be just fine and protect your console (Pure sinewave is for sensitive electronics, the xbox isn't that sensitive, but I got it just for peace of mind.) I have this and it works great. I had a quick brown out the other day and everything in my apartment shut down except for everything that was plugged into the battery power.

Edit: Linked the wrong UPS! oops

TLDNR; Without having more info on what I described in the first paragraph. I'd say just buy a couple 10TB Easystores on sale ($180ea) and use your current SBCs and smaller server setups. After I wrote all of this I saw that you are from AUS(I think), so no clue if you can get close to $18 per TB in your area, but prices are coming down every year so sometimes better to just save $$$. It is super fun to think about a new and more powerful setup, plus buying it and putting it together, but as you can see I've done a lot of this thinking already. You are also probably feeling guilty that you have to make use of all your 2TBs, but lots of little HDDs do require more electricity to power up and cool. You need storage density and you cant get around that. Upgrade to 10TB and use the 2TB as a cold storage (backup). You are at a heck of a crossroads because the cost to go from SBCs to a "Proper" server plus buying storage isnt a cheap one. Currently there are limited stepping stones, but more powerful SBCs and Ryzen Embedded are here and on the way so wait if possible. Either way you go, you will spend more money and use up storage faster than you planned... The more powerful SBCs arent always cheap either, once you factor in cost of: memory card, power supply, case, possible heatsink/extra heat sinks, a fan, etc. Their lower price starts creeping into the middle range...


What brand, how many, and how long have the 2TBs been powered on for? It sounds like you are currently swapping out the 2TBs for others depending on what you want to watch and on which HDD it is? Do you have any projected storage numbers and what is your current and future budget? You mentioned that you have a small dedicated server? Is that another SBC or what is with that setup and how many sata ports? I'd forgo the transcoding ideas and nix buying any sort of new "Server" options. Focus on reusing what you have or going with a "Used" setup, so you can start saving that money for when 8TB or 10TB Easystores go on sale.

IMO for a true new build you'd want to price in ECC RAM, UPS, and I personally prefer a case that has hot swap access to HDDs. The Rosewill that meemo linked cant be beat for the price especially since it comes with 7 fans, but it requires extra steps to access the HDDs (internally only), which may be fine for you. There is Mediasonic (JBOD version only) that you could plug into your SBC, but that technically isnt hot swappable either, plus it is USB 3.1 to USB-C which isnt the worst but it isnt the best... I know you wanted to get away from SBCs, but if you disable transcoding there are some SBCs that use SATA to SATA connections that are very viable. Any SBC or standalone storage that uses USB is a potential risk, since USB can suffer connection issues when doing rebuilding, parity, and scrubbing maintenance (same if your power goes out, hence a need for UPS). Helios4 is a time restricted option, since they only open up orders once or twice a year (they are currently taking orders). *I saw a post saying that since the Helios4 is a 32bit processor, so it is limited to 16TB volumes. You get 2GB ECC + 4x SATA and I believe you can use any HDD size with that (double check tho), so 4 separate 10TB volumes (4x$180sale=$720+tax), not including parity... I'm not sure how the 32bit and the 16TB volume limit effect drive pooling... I gotta research more into that. I'm not familiar with the UnRaid, FreeNAS, or the other options that you mentioned, but OpenMediaVault4 has MergerFS drive pooling and Snapraid plugin, you could run 3x storage HDD and 1x parity or you could forgo parity for now. If you prefer Windows (You can also run omv4 on windows in a VM) there is Stablebit Drivepool (Not free) for pooling and then Snapraid (not completely novice friendly) for parity. Depending on the HDD type you could reuse the discarded Easystore enclosures and put your 2TB drives in there (still USB connection). If they are a different brand (non WD/HGST) I think you have to desolder something on the Easystore board? I lost the link on how to do that. You could also just keep the 2TB as cold storage backups, but that still carries a risk, but it's cheaper. You could also get 2nd Helios, but for about the same price you could use that money on a 10TB. That would replace 5x of your 2TB drives... Not too mention the extra electricity to power and cool 5x drives vs 1x drive... As you can see, storage density starts coming into play here, big time.
UPS https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N18S/
Mediasonic https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078YQHWYW/
Helios4 https://shop.kobol.io/collections/frontpage/products/helios4-full-kit-2gb-ecc-3rd-batch-pre-order?variant=18881501528137
https://www.reddit.com/r/DataHoarder/comments/as17od/helios4_batch_3_available_for_preorder/

There are other SATA SBCs that you could use and you could also do a janky setup and put the SATA SBCs inside a hot swappable case like this Silverstone one. There are other cases, but this is the only name that came to mind. This case also doesnt have any power supply or fans to cool the HDDs so there will be extra cost there, plus you'll need a power supply, PLUS a way to turn on your power supply (with a power board), since that SBC setup wont have a motherboard. You can also make your own "Dumb" JBOD HDD enclosure and connect that to your mini server. Another option to SBCs is the ASRock cpu+mobo line: J3455-ITX, J4105-ITX, annd J5005-ITX. The issue with this that it appears you are still limited to 4x SATA or other variations of these boards have a PCIe 2.0 x16 slot at x1 or x2 transfer lanes/speed instead of x8 or x16... Also you have to factor in the price of ram and a mini PICO power supply. There is a subreddit+website that focuses on used parts for cheap server setups, but you might want to verify the power consumption of those setups when they are idling. With the NAS killer option, you gotta make sure all of the parts are still available on ebay or refurb sites, plus make sure you have time to build your setup to verify everything is working plus stress test it before the return window closes to weed out any weak used parts.
Silverstone https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00IAELTAI/
HDD enclosure option https://www.amazon.com/Rosewill-5-25-Inch-3-5-Inch-Hot-swap-SATAIII/dp/B00DGZ42SM/
Power Board https://www.amazon.com/Super-Micro-Computer-Supermicro-Cse-ptjbod-cb2/dp/B008FQZHZE
J3455-ITX https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=13-157-728
https://www.serverbuilds.net/nas-killer-v30/

Another option if you really want transcoding and a more powerful "Server" would be a Dell Optiplex 7010, which are used business computers that are "Refurbished", but I think they just take them from that company and wipe the hard drive, nothing else. The Minitower Desktop version is roomier than the slightly cheaper SFF (SmallFormFactor) version, which might be important if you want to swap out the power supply, watch the youtube video to get an idea of what you are getting into. Since a cheap power supply is a weak point plus a potential hazard I'd recommend swapping in a new power supply, but you could risk it with its current power supply. Everything else should last for a good while. You'll also need to install a HBA card. You can get Genuine used cards that were in good working order or you could get a new knock off from China. Both options are viable, but personally I prefer the used option. Theartofserver, ebay seller, also has a youtube channel, so I purchased from him, but I have also purchased from other sellers and got good working parts (I think Ebay still has the most honest and accurate rating system out there?). Since the Optiplex doesnt have room for internal HDDs then you are left with a few options with various HBA cards (internal vs external), expander cards, and adapter setups (SFF-8087 to SFF-8088). If you want it to look "Proper" there will be a lot of wasted money on 2x adapters (1x Optiplex + 1x external HDD enclosure) and an extra SFF-8088 cable between the two. I'd just go janky with it and get a longer reverse breakout cable of 3.3feet (4x SATA to 1x SFF-8087), which should be long enough to go from your external HDDs setup into the Optiplex case and internally connected to the HBA card, like the popular 9201-8i. The janky part being that you'll have the reverse breakout cable snaking directly into each case, instead of plugging into an adapter in the back.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01K0GNUOG/
https://www.amazon.com/Cable-Matters-Internal-Breakout-SFF-8087/dp/B018YHS9GM
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Genuine-LSI-6Gbps-SAS-HBA-LSI-9201-8i-9211-8i-P20-IT-Mode-ZFS-FreeNAS-unRAID/162958581156
Single adapter https://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16816133055
Double adapter https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01GPD9QEQ/
SFF-8080 cable https://www.amazon.com/Norco-Technologies-C-SFF8088-External-SFF-8088/dp/B003J9CZCK/

For pure sinewave, check out the CyberPower PFC lineup: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N18S/

For the feature set, they're priced extremely well.

As for whether you can used a stepped sinewave, it's really hit or miss. Pretty much all PSUs these days (anything 80+ certified) implement a technology called Active Power Factor Correction, and typically this technology can cause some issues while using stepped sinewave UPSs. However, it's not completely cut and dry. Some PSUs with it work fine on stepped sinewave. Others will work, but are extremely inefficient. Others will work, but see increased ripple. Others simply won't work at all. It's different for every brand/lineup of PSUs. To ensure compatibility on a PSU with PFC, it's best to get a pure sinewave UPS, especially if others have reported issues with stepped UPSs.

These are the best bang for your buck right now.

For a UPS the cheapest I can reccommend myself is this one. Of course depending on your computer setup that model may not supply enough power. They are typically expensive for the ones with PFC sinewave technology which is required for powering sensitive electronics like your PSU/Computer.

At the least though, you can go with a typical surge protector power strip. Tripp Lite is a reputable brand. It doesn't offer the same protection from repeated brown-outs as a UPS but its a hell of a lot better than plugging it right into the wall.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N18S/ref=twister_B007UL3ZEK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

Get one of those ^^ Better than a surge protector.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00429N18S/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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As far as the data you've already lost - I can't tell you how to recover it. But I would remove the drive from the computer until you have a plan.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N18S/

Pure Sine wave output works best with active-PFC high efficiency power supplies.

This is the one I have. It might be a little small for your rig, though. I have it powering my server and network gear right now.

Do you think this would be fine? https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP850PFCLCD-Sinewave-Compatible-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N18S/ref=sr_1_9?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1486657062&sr=1-9&keywords=sinewave+ups

How big of a server do you have? You should really just buy a UPS based on max power draw and not capacity. At max power draw the UPS should last long enough to power down the server, which is really all you want.

I have no issues with my cyberpower UPS. Specifically I bought a CP850PFCLCD (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N18S/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_g1yADbTHCRPJG) it's a smaller capacity at $129 but is pure sinewave.

I'm going to second the CP1000PFCLCD, you get plenty of runtime, a true sinewave, and surge protection. Or even the 850 model which is $10 cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00429N18S/ref=twister_B007UL3ZEK?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

I missed this sale but I went with this UPS

https://www.amazon.com/CyberPower-CP850PFCLCD-Sinewave-Outlets-Mini-Tower/dp/B00429N18S/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=UPS&psr=PDAY&qid=1563232456&s=prime-day-secondary&sr=1-2&th=1

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After using this calculator I found out I don't need one that large for my PC and monitors

https://www.apc.com/shop/us/en/tools/ups_selector

Bingo. Have personal experience with trying to chain consumer UPSs - even the cheapest ones today are still looking for noisy power, and will switch to battery if the incoming power seems noisy. A chopped sine wave is pretty damn noisy.

And by good enough, yeah they'll run the PC for a bit, but I remember reading something about the chopped sine wave output of most UPSs being particularly hard on PC power supplies a long time ago.

True sine wave UPSs are available at the consumer level now like this CyberPower, but you're going to pay a premium over a traditional UPS. I'm probably going to go with the 1000 VA version of that whenever my current 650 VA craps out, my power goes out a lot (and often comes back on juuuuust as the PC has finished hibernating).

Hmm, pure sine wave rules out the models I can get locally (just simulated sine wave) so I turned to Amazon. CyberPower CP850PFCLCD PFC Sinewave UPS 850VA 510W PFC Compatible Mini-Tower indicates having both pure sine wave and line interactive covered. What say you?