Reddit mentions of E-Z Lok 400-4 Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 1/4"-20 Internal Threads, 0.500" Length (Pack of 25)

If you're routinely opening the panel, I'd suggest getting threaded inserts like this that allow you to use machine screws rather than wood screws. If you take wood screws in and out enough times, you'll make the hole useless. The ones I listed are sized for inch threads, but you can find metric equivalents.

Also, as someone else mentioned, I'd seal the case with something to protect the wood.

Earlier I made a practice station for a set of 6 locks, but it was uncomfortable to hold in my lap while I watch TV. So I made a couple of these small holders in an hour or so. There is a brass insert for the screw, so these will last forever, and the screws will turn easily.
I would recommend making these before you try to duplicate the big rig.

I used the E-Z Lok 1/4-20 brass inserts. You can use thumb screws or knurled screws (as shown in the picture). Thumb screws are available at nearly any hardware store.
The special tool I used to screw in the brass insert is shown here, but some people may want a driver bit.

I rounded off the edges using a router table, but a sander can be used. The slot can be cut with a table saw or a small dovetail or gent's saw.

I didn't apply a finish yet, as I wanted to use them for a while. I can do that later. I used oak for these holders.

The parts can be purchased here. here. here or here and the T-handle wrench I used is available here.

Some tips:

• Drill some small pilot holes and make sure they line up because the holes from the side and top have to intersect.
  
• The large hole may cause tear-out, so you might want to drill from both sides. (That's why a small pilot hole is useful).
  
• Make sure you drill the proper size hole for the brass insert. I have 3/8" marked on the bag to remind me.
  
• When you, ah, insert the insert. make sure the slots for the screwdriver face out, so you can remove the insert in case it gets messed up.
  
• I find the T-handle wrench is easy to control and to make sure you hold the tool at the right angle. If it's tilted, the insert may not go in easily.
  
• Be prepared and have extra inserts, in case you mess up.
  
• If you use a hard wood like cherry (like my practice station), you may have to use one of the brass inserts to start the thread, then back it off (with a screwdriver) and replace it will the final one.
  
• Be safe and protect your fingers. Drilling the large hole into the block will cause the wood to grab and spin with the bit. I held it in a small vice. I also used a professional hold-down when I used the router table. Those pieces of wood are too small to be hand-held.
  
  Let me know if you have any questions.

No OP, but they are called Threaded Inserts.

Available probably at any hardware store or [Amazon](E-Z Lok 400-4 Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 1/4"-20 Internal Threads, 0.500" Length (Pack of 25) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00207NF6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_2HLmDbKA5T2RF)

Great questions.

Yes, I found these great brass knurled thumb screws https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B005RTF0NQ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 and threaded inserts https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00207NF6W/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_image_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 for the pivots. I thought about a soild pin but that may interfered with anything larger than a letter.

The inner top corners and bottom back panel are angled to give swing clearance from the outer box.

I played with lots of wood blocks and inner catch ideas but settled simply on 2 small brass nails that I insert/remove to mount the outer box to the wall. The are definatly strong enough to prevent it from "over opened".

I ended up spending a lot o time finding the right pivot point but found a place where its nicely balanced. Its stays shut when its shut and open when its opened.

Why wouldn't you ever be able to disassemble it? If you back the screws out to disassemble it, the holes will still be good. Depending on the hardness of the wood and how rough you are with it will determine how many times you can re-use the holes -- and even if the threads chew up the wood, it's really easy to just drill out the hole and glue a new hardwood dowel in and then start the process again by predrilling holes into the dowel.

Alternately, a threaded insert will let you screw something into the wood once and from that point forward you're screwing into metal. It'll last a lot longer, but you'll have to get different screws to attach the pedestal to the surface.

based on the url I'm betting he was referring to these.

One of the other posts recommended something like this which would also be a good choice.

I've been working on this table project for a little while now, and now just need to fasten the legs to the table tops. One issue that that these raw oak slabs were never planed more than the rough cut from the tree, so their fairly uneven, and even bow a little (don't think it shows in the pictures, though). For that reason, I need a way to level the legs so that the tables don't rock once their finished. Shimming the plates with washers should be easy enough to get the table level, but I'll need machined threads to run the fasteners into and out of (and then into and out of again) so that they'll still hold once it's all said and done. I've looked at a few different options for this problem, but aren't convinced any of them are ideal. T-nuts would work, but I think they might pull out since they won't be held in from the top of the table surface (not interested in that industrial look). These threaded inserts and these similar ones would seem to do the trick, but the reviews raise questions about the strength of the material in dealing with hardwood, as well as problems with the material stripping while trying to place them. Anyone have any suggestions/advice?

TLDR: Looking for fastener solutions to affix table legs to the underside of an oak slab that will allow adjusting to level the table.

I screwed these into the top:

E-Z Lok Threaded Insert, Brass, Knife Thread, 1/4"-20 Internal Threads, 0.500" Length (Pack of 25) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00207NF6W?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Then I put 1/4 inch hex bolts through the holes in the legs into those inserts in the top. If the wood expands - which it would do widthwise, not lengthwise - the bolt has room to move within the hole in the leg so that it doesn't crack.

I think this is very similar to the insert used on the original build.