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Reddit mentions of E-Z Lok Threaded Insert

Sentiment score: 1
Reddit mentions: 1

We found 1 Reddit mentions of E-Z Lok Threaded Insert. Here are the top ones.

#4 E-Z Lok Threaded Insert #6
Provides a Strong Machine Thread In Hard WoodsIdeal For Use in Woods Like Oak, Cherry, and MapleDesigned For Use In Furniture, Cabinetry, Storm Windows and Marine ApplicationsSimply Drill the Appropriately Sized Hole and Install with Screwdriver or Optional Drive ToolProprietary External Knife Threads Provide Superior Holding Power
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Found 1 comment on E-Z Lok Threaded Insert:

u/ed_merckx ยท 2 pointsr/woodworking

1.75 inches (so essentially 8/4 lumber) is more than thick enough to attach legs, especially something that small and I assume the legs will be light and simple. Larger lag bolts are proportionate to the weight of the base, I'd say that simple wood screws so long as they have some room to move around (will hear it refereed to as "elongated screw holes" will be more than enough.

Earlier this year I did a large walnut slab dining table, 8/4 at around 50 inches wide and 11 feet long. Had a really beefy cast iron base, I threaded 1/2 hole for lag bolts (for future reference you can thread wood with thread taps, you just have to go really slow going in and in reverse), some people will put metal thread inserts, but I didn't. Each leg probably weighed 75-100lbs if I had to guess. Brought the table into the house and assembled it there for obvious reasons, but we moved it around with a bunch of us and the legs were fine. Half inch lag bolts were probably overkill, my usual is 1/4'' for most of my tables.

Unless your slab is a lot bigger than the picture makes it look as it does lack any size refernce, but I assume the inserts you're talking about are something like this, those are no where near 1.75 inches long, the biggest they have are around 1 inch in height I think. Drilling deep shouldn't have much impact on cracking the wood, unless you're boring into it with a giant auger bit or something.

Sanding depends on many things, mostly how you want to finish it (what oil/varnish/water-based, etc are you using), and what kind of end result are you going for, super buffed out polished glass like finish, really matte finish, etc. First off, 50 grit is probably overkill unless you really need to take material off. If they are going to plane both sides flat you'd porbbaly be fine starting in the 60-100 grit range to take away any machining marks, general rule of thumb is that everything after your lowest grit is just smoothing the surface rather than actually removing any meaningful amount of material. Generally you'll see porgression like this; 60 grit after planer - 100 grit - 150 grit - 220 grit - vaccum up/wipe off dust and apply finish. After that sanding in between the grits depending on what kind of end result you want. If you're looking to just build up a finish, but not really add a polish and try to keep it as matte as possible (obviously avoid a gloss specific varnish then) most people will just stick with 220 and not go higher. For others, often with like a really highly figured wood you'll sand up in between each coat of finish. I've gone as high as like 4,000 grit wet sanding methods, doing like a wax polish on top of that, to get a mirror like glass finish.

There's really no set rule of thumb, but it's more in relation to what your desired result. Also on finishing get 10 professionals in a room and ask them the best way to get a specific desired finish result and you could easily get 10 different answers and none of them would be wrong. We all find the methods that work best for us, after years for a table that will receive some kind of stain (the farmhouse people all want some generic minwax wipe on) I just spray a few coats of water based poly and done. On highly figured stuff I like some kind of varnish (like a wipe on poly), I like the general finishes arm-r-seal brand, but have used minwax wipe on plenty of times. Waterlox is a brand people love, but it's expensive (especially for the gloss as you have to buy a second component) and smells like shit, plus the finishing process with it is more in depth. It definitely penetrates deeper than most brands from my experience, some like that some say it's unnecessary.

Last year I got into trying conversion varnishes (also called "2k poly") which are more common in the automotive industry. Helped a friend install a pup-top bar he did, looked like an epoxy top, but was a bit different, told me it was just 2k poly that he sprayed on. I used that to get a mirror finish on a highly figured slab (has really good durability too), after a base layer of an epoxy resin to bring out the figuring wasn't too hard and for a really large slab table I liked it and hte durability more than lacquer, again some might disagree, say CV's are overly complex, dangerous etc. No one is right or wrong.

Others will swear varnishes take away from the natural properties of the wood and will only stay with the true oils like BLO, tung, danish (technically thats an oil varnish blend). Some guys will still use straight shellac.

What's the end use of this going to be, I assume some kind of side or display table, that woods got some nice figuring and color, I'd personally go with a wiping varnish you could buy at your local home center. you'll have a range of probably matte, satin, semi-gloss, gloss. Matte should be flat or natural with no sheen, (although if you want that then I'd personally head the oil route, danish oil or dewaxed shellac are probably the most straightforward and least likely to give you a headache from personal experience), up to gloss which will have the most sheen. As I said earlier I like to buff out a glossier finish with satin wipe of poly, but I've used gloss brand plenty of time, all really straightforward. Sand it up to 220 hit wipe on, Here's a simple method with wipe on poly. You don't need to go up as high as he did by any means, and before I had nicer sanders/abrasives (you wont find much over 220 grit in the ROS pads at the home depot) I'd go to like 1,500 grit and doing the wet sanding/buffind part by hand. you can feel how smooth it will be after each coat, again some people will never go past 220, some go really high to get a smoother/glossier finish.

Also do you want to keep the bark on or not?