Make sure you grab some wires to connect everything if you don't already have some.

I used these which worked great
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EV70C78/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Full parts list with links to each product:

Camera:

$36 - Raspberry Pi 3

$30 - Raspberry Pi Cam v2

$9 - 8GB SD card (class 4 or higher)

$3 - M3 hex nuts

$8 - M3 screws 16 mm

Iphone Lens x0.67

$20 - Male/Female Header Pins

$12 - Resistors 10k x 2 + 220 O x 2

$7 - Jumper Wires

$7 - LED Buttons x 2

$35 - Adafruit 2.8" PiTFT x 1

$8 - Pogo Pins

$7 - Clear Red 3mm LEDs x 3

$20 - PowerBank

$6 - Resistors - 2x 10k (included in price before) & 2x 100k

$30 - TowerPro MG92B Servo x 1

$8 - Neodynium Magnets 6X2 mm (8 pieces)

$10 - Micro USB Breakout x 2

$7 - Micro USB Cables x 2

Gif Cartridge:

$26 - Raspberry Pi Zero W x 1

$9 - 8GB SD card (class 4 or higher) x 1

Resistors 10k x 1 + 100k x 1 (included in price from camera parts multi pack)

$3 - Momentary Switch x 1

$35 - Adafruit 2.8" PiTFT x 1

$13 - 3.7 v LiPo 400mAH Battery x 1

$20 - Power Boost 1000C x 1

Tools you may need:

Soldering Iron, Desoldering Gun/Solder Sucker, Screwdriver set, Crimping tool, Pliers, Exacto Knives, Sand Paper(400-1200 grit), Tweezers, Acrylic Spray Paints (Black and White) Krylon or Montana Gold
Github Repo for the code: https://github.com/shekit/instagif

Github Repo for the eagle files, STL files: https://github.com/shekit/instagif-hardware

Total Cost: $369

+ iPhone Lens which varies greatly

Parts needed: Arduino Uno, 5V 1A power adapter, relay board. Wire the 5V power the Arduino "5V" and "GND" pins. Also wire 5V power to the relay board "Vcc" and "GND" pins. 5V/Vcc is positive, GND is negative. Connect Arduino pins 5,6,7 to relay board IN1,IN2,IN3, respectively. You can use jumper wires like these for these connections, and you'll probably have to do a little soldering to make the power connection wires.

Wire the relays to your stoplight. To avoid burning down the house use a qualified electrician and a safety rated electrical enclosure for the mains wiring (relay board to stoplight).

Program the Arduino with the following code. To do this you'll need to install the Arduino IDE on a computer, plug the Arduino board into the computer with the USB cable, load the code, select the Arduino board, and eventually hit the download button. That will store the program into the Arduno. Then disconnect the Arduino from the computer, connect it to your 5V power and stoplight relays, and it should work.

// Firehouse stoplight controller for Arduino Uno

// arbitrary digital output pins - connect these to relay board IN1,IN2,IN3
// the relay board uses negative logic (LOW turns on relay)

define RED_PIN 5

#define YELLOW_PIN 6<br />
#define GREEN_PIN  7<br />

// arbitrary digital input pin - connect to incoming call sensor

define SENSOR_PIN 8 // negative logic (LOW when call is present)

void setup()
{
pinMode( RED_PIN, OUTPUT );
digitalWrite( RED_PIN, HIGH );

pinMode( GREEN_PIN, OUTPUT );
digitalWrite( GREEN_PIN, HIGH );

pinMode( YELLOW_PIN, OUTPUT );
digitalWrite( YELLOW_PIN, HIGH );
}

void loop()
{
// turn on red
digitalWrite( RED_PIN, LOW );

// wait for incoming call
while (digitalRead( SENSOR_PIN ) == HIGH) ;

// start launch sequence
digitalWrite( RED_PIN, HIGH ); // red off
digitalWrite( YELLOW_PIN, LOW ); // yellow on
delay( 10000 ); // delay 10 seconds
digitalWrite( YELLOW_PIN, HIGH ); // yellow off
digitalWrite( GREEN_PIN, LOW ); // green on
delay( 2*60000 ); // delay 2 minutes
digitalWrite( GREEN_PIN, HIGH ); // green off
}

You'll probably need some additional parts to accomplish the speaker circuit to Arduino connection.

I'm trying to make a large LED grid (23x10 with 4inx4in squares), and I've been experimenting with what the cheapest way to do it is. I can make one of these for around 75 cents USD. The layers are:

1. Balsa square backplane: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07MM185Q2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
2. Reflective aluminum tape (helps increase the brightness a bit)
   
3. Single WS2812B RBG LED: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014QKWJDU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
4. Soldered on connectors: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EV70C78/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
5. 4x4 housing square made from gluing together 3 4x1s from home depot
   
6. Tracing paper square
   
7. Nylon Silk cloth square: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XSBDWXX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   It's pretty easy to construct (the hardest part is soldering on the connectors), but I have several complaints I'd love cheap alternatives to.
   
   

• The frame is thicker than I'd like. I think I can fix this by just sawing off some of the edges - going to play with this later.
  
• I don't know for sure the tape is helping compared to light colored wood.
  
• I'm slightly concerned about heat, but I'm testing that now.
  
• I'd love to find a cheap 3-pin connector so I don't have to solder all of these.
  
• **The main problem I'm having is sufficiently diffusing the light over the square.** The camera makes it look more pronounced than it is, but there's a definite circle in the middle where the LED is. I've tried facing it the other way (towards the reflective tape), but then you get the shadow of the LED ribbon, which looks worse. I've also tried more/different layers of diffusion material. Materials I've tried (in many combinations and at many distances) include:
  
  • Tissues
    
  • Regular paper
    
  • Card stock drawing paper
    
  • Paper towel
    
  • Toilet paper
    
  • Nylon diffusion fabric
    
  • Tracing paper
    
    The ones that work the best are the tracing and nylon, but it's still not great.
    
    Happy to talk about the project, and would love advice if anyone has done something similar!
    
    ​
    
    Edit: I just tried making the housing thicker (from 0.5in to 1.5in) and it made it a LOT better. I think I'm happy with it now as long as I can find a way to clean up the edges.

this is a bit involved but is a good way of doing things as it doesnt require extra hubs/apps

• buy some sonoff wifi switches
  
• buy an FTDI adapter
  
• buy some jumper wires
  
• you may need a mini usb cable too
  
  and you now have everything you need to flash tasmota
  
  which will allow you to connect these sonoff smart switches directly to HASS and make smart extension leads
  
  also youtube sonoff tasmota, theres plenty of videos explaining it
  
  good luck!
  
  
  
  
  

The motherboard switch cable is just a standard 2 pin jumper cable. Can buy some electronics cables to extend it.

https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-EL-CP-004-Multicolored-Breadboard-arduino/dp/B01EV70C78/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539481769&sr=8-3&keywords=header+pin+cable+male+to+female

If you bought the Arduino Uno, you'll have female pins and you're good to follow the tutorial. If you bought the Arduino Nano, you can use jumper wires like these: https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-EL-CP-004-Multicolored-Breadboard-arduino/dp/B01EV70C78/.

If you bought an Arduino Nano without the pins soldered into it, you may buy some headers and solder it yourself, then you'll have a Nano with female pins, although I'd be cautions soldering into Arduino since depending on the power from your soldering iron, you may damage the Arduino itself.

Jumper wires are your best bet, since these are super cheap and usually sold in tens. As they're simple wires, if you find them too long, you may make it short by cutting then putting it together with some tape.

Here's a decent video explaining how and why to update the firmware:

https://youtu.be/aQIg9zxuCvM

> EDIT: If you do use the Marline 1.1.9 firmware, instead of the TH3D Unified FirmWare mentioned below, make sure you make some modifications.
> I posted some of those here:
> https://www.reddit.com/r/ender5/comments/b989yk/xy_not_working_past_a_few_mm_after_marlin_119/
>
> One not mentioned very well in that thread is the auto home settings
> Those are mentioned here:
> https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/issues/12074
>
> All in all I'd suggest using UFW as I believe they sort out most of the above problems. But I haven't moved to that yet so can't speak to it too much.
>
> END EDIT

You can buy an arduino uno for pretty cheap, they are off brand mostly but have drivers scattered around the web. TH3D has a unified firmware (UFW) that I will be updating to once I get their EZABL (auto bed leveler) and they have the drivers in their download for the UFW.

Here's a link to the UFW:
https://www.th3dstudio.com/knowledgebase/th3d-unified-firmware-package/

For flashing the boot loader as a part of the firmware update you will also need dupont connectors, you can make these if you have the patience or just buy some. I bought this pack:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EV70C78

I've purchased a lot of the upgrades mentioned in this thread from TH3D. I can't speak for their quality as I haven't received them yet but they seem a decent USA shop.

One thing I highly recommend based on discussions in this thread is something you can do without the need to purchase anything and that is to de-tin the wires on the power connector. The heat passing through those connectors can melt the solder causing a fire hazard near the plastic connectors. Simply detach the power connectors all around the main board. Here's a video explaining that (also has instructions on how to flash it using their UFW I think):

https://youtu.be/T5lef0FrV_c

For any other upgrades mentioned here I've purchased mine from TH3D's Ender 5 upgrade list. I have yet to install them but from the discussions here and their videos I'm hopeful that they will be high quality:

https://www.th3dstudio.com/product-category/printer-upgrades/ender5/

Why doesn’t anyone use breadboard (Arduino) wires, 3 red and 3 black and put them in a barrel jack that has screw headers? It should be easy to find a high current 5v power supply with a barrel jack.

universal barrel jack

breadboard (Arduino) wires

power supply for reference

The main components are the LEDS, the controller, and a 5V power supply (usually drone batteries+converter).
Setting up the LEDS: https://learn.adafruit.com/adafruit-neopixel-uberguide/overview
The controller: https://www.pjrc.com/store/teensy32.html https://www.amazon.com/Teensy-3-2-with-pins/dp/B015QUPO5Y/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1499135540&sr=8-2&keywords=teensy+3.2
Arduino (the Arduino IDE programs the teensy): https://www.arduino.cc/en/Guide/HomePage
Teensyduino to make the arduino IDE work with teensy: https://www.pjrc.com/teensy/teensyduino.html
FASTLed: http://fastled.io/

I would get one strip of LEDS (https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_ss_c_1_3?url=search-alias%3Daps&field-keywords=ws2812b&sprefix=ws2%2Caps%2C379&crid=365H5OUOTHHLJ) and a controller and play around with it. There's pre-built examples that are pretty plug-and-play without modding any code that you can mess around with and learn. Pretty flexible what you can do with them. You'll also need a soldering iron and general electrical wire too (https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-120pcs-Multicolored-Breadboard-arduino/dp/B01EV70C78/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1499135864&sr=8-4&keywords=ribbon+cable). They are pretty sweet though.

I've used these (and similar connectors) for all the connections on my guitars for years. It allows me to easily change or reconfigure components, pickups, or routing in minutes.

That's the case I was using prior to the combined case. I used a 6" USB cable to the einsy and it worked nicely. My reason for switching was to eliminate the power cable for the pi and have the webcam USB lower and out of the way. You could still do that with that case if you wanted. (I used these https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01EV70C78?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_pd_title) I am also considering the MMU2 as well once things shake out.

Yes, Dupont connectors. I like to buy these packs (m/m, m/f, f/f)

Here's what my cart looks like so far
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01EV70C78/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A2WWHQ25ENKVJ1&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007R9TUJE/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?smid=A2GTSJRNFEVVSP&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003XZSZWO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_3?smid=A388EF2JRGUUQ3&psc=1

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07QHFP8L6/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A2Z8WR05TMKSB9&psc=1

Unfortunately I have put everything back together and didn't take a pic of the mausberry or Iot relay, but those two don't connect to each other.

The mausberry circuit plugs into the micro-usb power input area of your pi and then you plug the pi power into that mausberry circuit. You then solder wires to that circuit from the Arcade1Up power switch (I soldered longer wire between the two). Mausberry provides a command to run that'll do the rest of the magic for the mausberry circuit.

The Iot relay has a little green thing that you pull out and it has spots for a positive and ground wire. You simply attach those to any power and ground pins on the pi's gpio headers. I found these jumper wires super helpful. Now when you power on your pi, the gpio power/ground will let the Iot relay know it's on and then it'll turn on the other two outlets.

As a general item I stock for my projects THESE ribbon cables work great. I dont know the actual pitch spacing measurement offhand but it matches those used on the RaspberryPI GPIO pins

Many electronic devices have pin headers (male) or socket headers (female) that are connected by means of jumper wires. These terminals are usually standardized so I suggest you buy a pack of wires to use for different projects.

https://www.amazon.com/Elegoo-EL-CP-004-Multicolored-Breadboard-arduino/dp/B01EV70C78

Occasionally sensors require a Grove connector which is like four pin sockets put together in a single connector. So you can also buy a bunch of those cables.

https://www.amazon.com/Cables-Grove-Female-Jumper-Grove-Conversion/dp/B01CNZ9EEC

These are the good type.

Elegoo EL-CP-004 120pcs Multicolored Dupont Wire 40pin Male to Female, 40pin Male to Male, 40pin Female to Female Breadboard Jumper Wires Ribbon Cables Kit for arduino https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EV70C78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_BS0WCb139RSM7

Mine just end up everywhere...Though, I have ordered several sets of these, so when I try to organize them I need a much bigger box.

I also picked up a set of crimpers, pins, and housings, so I make a lot of my own.

So I followed this purchase list guide already and got everything minus the camera because I have an old Logitech webcam I'm gonna use.

But it doesn't mention what's needed for the BLtouch. So I bought the BLtouch but didnt get anything else with it. The BLtouch doesn't come with the Pin 27 board? And also, what will the 6ea female-to-female jumpers be for? I didn't see that mentioned anyhere.

Edit: I bought both the 27 Pin board and a big pack of jumper cables. They were actually one of the cheapest on Amazon and have a variety so, that's cool I guess.

Thank you for all your input. I will be referring back to everything you said when I'm confused as hell in a couple days trying to set all this up. Lol. Btw, while I got your attention, the rotary encoder on my control box completely seized up and wouldn't move. I bought a replacement and desoldered the old one out. But, will I even need to use the control box anymore after having all this Octoprint installed?

It can be done, if you know the right pinout and need an adapter like breadboard jumpers. In this case you would set it to 1 or 2 HD120 fans in iCUE, as they have 12 LEDs/fan. If you reverse the polarity, then you can blow a SMD fuse in the LNP. I speak from experience.

I don't know the pinout of the strimer, but the LNP is 5v+, data, ground. The 5v is denoted by the key/notch.

Elegoo EL-CP-004 120pcs Multicolored Dupont Wire 40pin Male to Female, 40pin Male to Male, 40pin Female to Female Breadboard Jumper Wires Ribbon Cables Kit for arduino https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EV70C78/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YeFXBbQRACNBS