Reddit mentions of eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project

So, presumably, you're going to want different sections to have lights which operate independently from each other. Lights in this "room" lights in another "room" lights somewhere else yet. And also, presumably, you don't want it to be "all on" or "all off," but different sections that turn on when players are there, leaving the other sections off.

All sections will require power in order to operate, but it won't be necessary to run power cables willy nilly all over the board for this. Instead, you can run two lines - one positive, and one negative - back to your power source. It's similar to a breadboard in that you have power lines running the full length so you can tap power wherever you need it. I personally would run something like 14AWG wire to a series of screw down terminals, which will be where you connect any "room" circuits up.

I personally would change your design to use LEDs instead of incandescent bulbs. The incandescent bulbs will require a much higher voltage, which will require more expensive reed switches, and will also pose more hazard to work with and for the players. It definitely can be done safely at 120V, but it will be less work for better results (that will also last longer) if you switch. Using say, 12V DC for power, you can leave your power rails exposed if you want and it won't be a risk even if someone is touching them.

Here is a hastily drawn wiring schematic for you, which shows one light that would be activated by standing upon 6 different tiles. The black and red lines up top are your power rails. On one end, each of those is connected to a + (red) and - (black) on a power source. I would recommend something like this or even like this depending upon what your actual power requirements end up being. My overwhelming suspicion is your entire board, even if every fixture was lighted, would still be consuming less than 24W (if you go LED!). The cluster of 6 of the same item to the left are a bank of switches. Power is drawn off the + rail, and if any one switch is closed, power will continue to flow to the LED (purple), which is attached to the - rail to close the circuit. This can be scaled up or down almost infinitely - more LEDs on from one switch or switch bank - no problem - more or less switches - no problem. You can make as many of these set ups as you want, and attach them to the same rails - no problem!

To be honest, reading your post it sounds like still have some work to go to reach even a fundamental understanding of electrical circuitry. That's of course ok and not intended as a diss. This is partially why I recommend switching to a lower voltage of DC power (although it is what I would do personally as well), but also I would recommend you continue working on the fundamentals - it will make designing your project a lot easier. Here's a kinda whack video for kids but it's the most digestible one I was able to find in quickly searching. I also found this really cool lab software which will allow you to create simulations of the concepts you've learned about. If you need help or have specific questions, feel free to ask. Also, if you've got a design of your board laid out in a grid and you know where you want lights, switches, etc, I can help you turn that into a wiring diagram.

Here is a list of things that people will always need, I understand you can't stock everything as overhead is an issue with retail, and storage as well, but most of these are small enough that they can occupy the shelf space you currently have. As for the larger things, like the 2020 extrusions, you could sell them in common lengths of 500mm and 1000mm and let the customer cut them down to the size they need, or just don't carry these at all. It's not a niche item, but for a retail store like you it would be hard to store and maintain, but man, would it be nice to be able to get those locally if i needed a piece for a project instead of having to wait on mail order.

• PSU 12v/24v
  
• Fans 30mm/40mm in 12v/24v
  
• PEI 200mm, 250mm, 300mm for Deltas and 300x300 for Cartesian, CoreXY.
  
• E3D Hotends
  
  • v6
    
  • Volcano
    
  • Titan Aero
    
  • Nozzle Variety Pack
    
  • Thermistors
    
  • Pro Socks
    
  • Heater Cartridges
    
  • Volcano Nozzles
    
  • Heat Breaks
    
• Boro Glass
  
• Spatulas similar to this style
  
• Plastic Razor Blades
  
• Capricorn PTFE Tubing 1.75/3mm variants
  
• Screws, Cap head, M3, M4, M5 etc.
  
• 2020 Extrusion, 2040 Extrusion etc
  
  this is just a basic list, others have listed other things as well, Steppers, Belts, Pulleys, Bearings etc. If you want 3d printing as a reason for other people to go to your store, these items will satisfy the need. Just keep prices fair, I have no issue paying a bit more compared to amazon to get it today.
  

2nd picture, rectangular chip, 4th silver connector on right side down, burnt connection and chip

You should check with the seller for a replacement power supply first, otherwise

https://tiny-machines-3d.myshopify.com/products/highest-quality-replacement-power-supply-for-creality-cr-series-machines

or this should work from amazon but it won't fit in the box according to the reviewer, still 18.99

https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

Then you are running a huge fire hazard. Here is link to the psu im using: https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG
Mosfets can be found on amazon/ebay aswell. Marlin is free software and soldering just need a soldering iron and your skills. I would not recommend you to use it before you do these upgrades.

When you have done these upgrades, then you can start to troubleshoot the other problems. I am sorry, but I do not know what's causing the sounds.

• MOSFET: https://www.amazon.com/Wangdd22-Printer-Expansion-Heatbed-Current/dp/B01MY50JL3
  
• Belt: https://www.amazon.com/Anycubic-Meters-Timing-Pulleys-Printer/dp/B0152ZNDLK
  
• Pulleys: https://www.amazon.com/Aluminum-Bearing-Timing-3D-printers/dp/B0188HW4Z0 (ships as bag of two which is exactly what is needed)
  
• Igus DryLin bushings: https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Solid-Polymer-LM8UU-Bearing/dp/B06XPRCMJS (is a pack of 7 as needed for the A8)
  
• PSU (just as an example): https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG
  
  All the parts listed above can be sourced cheaper, but that were the links I had at hand.

They're easy enough to make to be honest.

Just need a 12v power supply and an induction heating module Then it's just a case of wiring it up, which is simple enough. The only bit you'll need to solder is the actual heating coil to the induction board and that's only 2 solder points so definitely minimal. put a switch on the induction heater so that it's not always on and it'll be functional. Then it's just a case of housing the parts in a nice box. If you want detachable leads then there are a few different connectors you can use but they will require more soldering. Personally I like xt60 connectors as they're easy to solder.

I just spent the last week buying and printing upgrades for my new A8... I'm also new to 3D printing. Its been printing great so far.

Purchased;
Mosfet: $10 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XP4YZ9N
GT2 Belts: $9 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01F0G4144
30A PSU: $20 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/
Power Socket w/ Switch & Fuse: $5 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK
Printed;
Extruder Buton: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1935151
T Corner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1672959
Anti Z Wobble: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1858435
Y Belt Tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2149867
X Belt Tensioner: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2354736
Z Endstop Fine Adjustment: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1776429

I combined this power supply with this switch combo bolted down inside an ammo can as my charging setup and charger case. If you have a drill and a Dremel, you can easily do the same. That supply gives you 30 amps of 12 volts with three separate outputs. So you could run 3 of those Accucel chargers at max power, in theory.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG

Keeps it all at ~12.5V. I managed to get one screw into it to hold it where the old one used to go.

Also get the mosfet to run the bed power completely independently of the controller board for another $10:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HEQVQAK/

Use some ~14ga lamp cord to tie it in. :)

Don't forget to check the bed control board on the back wall of the control box. Mine arrived with a wire loose.

There are 4 wires, two thin ones that go to the control board, and two thicker ones direct to the power supply, very short distance.

Also UNPLUGGED you might check the screws and wires on the power supply, one may have come off and shorted somewhere.

If that's true, it blew the power supply. (Bad news)

Good news - they're cheap to replace.

Here's one on Amazon that works:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG

I looked closely at your pics and all looks OK, it's probably the power supply. Be happy, it's the least expensive thing in there!

Seriously, look for loose wires, the big ones that are screwed on, not the little ones with white plugs. Look both at the terminal block of the power supply and where those wires go into the motherboard.

If no joy there, (and just to be thorough) check the wires to the bed and turn the printer over and check the bed heater with good lighting. You'll know if you see a problem ....

Good Luck!

PuterPro

It was the PSU! I replaced it with this one and now I'm printing again!

Powerwerx from HRO

.

Samlex from DXE

.

If you want to go cheap, you can try one of these from Amazon. You'll need to add things such as wiring up a power cord and putting it into an enclosure, twisting the pots to get the exact voltage you need, checking that voltage periodically, etc, etc. It does take some more work to make it all work. I have one of these, and it works. However, I also have a Powerwerx and I like that better.

.

Personally, I'd recommend the Powerwerx. You can optionally pop the cover off and bolt the TM-V71A bracket right to the PSU and wire the TM-V71A to the posts on the back. That leaves the powerpoles on the front to power other things.

>5 months ago

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/

Those are indeed 10W warm white LEDs.

It's been running 12/12 for about 3 weeks with no issues. The LEDs don't get as hot as the buck boosters I'm using to drive them to 11.2V each.

The power supply was basically this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7CWSCG/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?qid=1464231755&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=12+volt+power+supply+switching&dpPl=1&dpID=41uyGgXDhEL&ref=plSrch

Theres a pot you can adjust to bring the voltage up closer to 13.8. I dont have one but the reviews all looked pretty good.

You should definitely replace it. I replaced my stock A8 PSU with this one: eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_pye9AbCXGDZ5C

To answer your question directly:

12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_JgaFwbK9DGQ1E

Assuming your i3 is 12 volts not 24.

I've done similar to several old drills. Usually adapting to run on car batteries.

You want to use the plus and minus terminals, the other is a temperature sensor for the charger.

Making it so that you can still use the original battery is a little trickier. I've used a dowel as a dummy battery to hold the contacts in place on a Makita.

Drills will need a power supply that delivers about 10 amps. an old dumb battery charger will work. Or you can get something like this.

This. My power supply was dead on arrival and wouldn't fire up. The ones that ship with the kit are kinda crap.

Bought this one on Amazon and it's been great for 1.5 years.

eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Gmb4Cb8FSPKHQ

Only downside is it won't directly screw to the frame. I have mine sitting next to the printer.

This is excellent information, thank you. It's been a bit overwhelming looking at all the mods out there which are a "definitely do this before you print anything or you'll burn your house down" and "this helps but can probably wait for now".

I've already soldered the wires to the heated bed and started installing a mosfet for the bed as well. (Sounds like one isn't really needed for the hot end?)


Do I need something like the 500w ATX PSU, or can I get away with something like this (recommended by the Punished Props Anet safety upgrade page)

Can you tell me more about that fix for the heater block with kapton tape? I saw it recommended that I switch to one of these? (recommended by the letsprint3d.net Anet safety mods page)

So, the Pioneer GM-7200 is a Car Power Amp? Yes?

Does it have any controls on it - Crossover, Phase, Volume,....?

The thing you need is the controls I spoke of. If you do not have those, there may be a way around it, but it is going to give you limited flexibility.

If the amp is a Car Stereo Power Amp, then the first thing you will need is a beefy 12v Power Supply.

Current = Power / Voltage

So, 400w / 12v = 33.333 AMPS

You need about a 30 amp to 40 amp Power Supply.

Some thing along the line of this -

https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG

I make no claim for the quality of this power supply, it was simply the first one that came up on a search.

https://www.google.com/?gws_rd=ssl#q=30a+12v+power+supply&safe=off&tbm=shop

If you have an AV Receiver, then we assume reasonably that it has Bass Management. Meaning, it will set the crossover frequency for the Sub.

So, that should cover the basics. When you run the Setup program for the AV Receiver, it should adjust the volume of the Sub to match the other speakers.

Steve/bluewizard

I was going to do the same, but got these. Glad I went with the standard supply, it mounts to the i3V frame as well. You can skip the cord if you have one already, just cut the one end off.

$22.14 12v20a
Cord

Thank you for the input! And thank you very much for offering to send me that MOSFET, but I actually just ordered the same one! Ha. I ordered a new PSU ( think this one is ok? ) Do you have any links or guides you recommend for the hotbed upgrades?


Edit: I wasn't aware of the fire hazards until I got this thing put together, is it really that bad? After I setup the MOSFET is it safe?

I'm on my phone so I can't really link it, but I posted a while back about a cheap power supply. It's the one I use daily and works great. For $23 I don't see how you could beat it.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7CWSCG

I bought an i3x at the beginning of June. Some thoughts are below. The tl;dr: Not the prettiest parts, and a subpar hotend, but I wanted an aluminum frame (humidity in my state is horrid) and knew I was buying a long-term project anyways. Overall, I'm happy with my purchase. Feel free to PM me if you have specific questions or whatever.

• They had some minor supply chain issues that delayed the shipping of my printer by a week or so, since their source for fasteners was backordered. Mine were drop-shipped, and got to me a few days after the rest of the parts. They also had to send me a few printed parts that got left out of the kit, but since it was just the brackets that attach the bed to the Y-rails, I was able to improvise temporarily with some bits from home depot so it didn't set me back at all.
  
  
• As mentioned, I mainly went with them over some of the other budget i3 options because my budget was limited and I wanted an aluminum frame. Having built the printer now, I'd feel comfortable with an acrylic frame, although I'm glad I didn't go with wood for my region.
  
  
• Expect to be buying a long-term project. While it's pretty dependable so far, I've got a handful of improvements I'm working on (listing those below), and would really like to upgrade to another hotend in the near future. I was expecting this, and it's why I bought a reprap kit instead of a commercial printer - It lets me make incremental upgrades along the way and experiment with it instead of trying to find the perfect printer out of the box now.
  
  
• Printed parts aren't the prettiest: most holes needed drilling with the proper drill bit, some minor sanding. Only really frustrating bit were the parts that hold the belt on the X or Y carriage, which required a lot of sanding to get the belts to fit (and I didn't want to risk a higher power tool, since too much room would be bad). Nothing has broken in about a month of use, with about 2kg of filament used.
  
  
• All the metal parts and fasteners are sufficient - galvanized steel for the threaded rod isn't the prettiest, but is perfectly functional for a frame. Fasteners are all quality and nothing has stripped or misbehaved.
  
  
• The hotend is the one thing you'll see consistent complaints about - I don't think anyone really likes it. I got the 1.75mm / .5mm version. It works ok (as mentioned above), but has a tendency to ooze from the joint between the brass and the PEEK, and last time I had it apart the PTFE tube inside had started to mushroom slightly - I'd save the $50 on the printer price and go ahead and buy another compatible hotend if I were you. The slot on the extruder is a standard size, so installing another hotend shouldn't be hard at all. I decided to go with their hotend since I didn't know anything about the standards involved, and was concerned I'd end up with a hotend that wouldn't quite fit, without a working printer to make a replacement mount - which was a somewhat unfounded concern. Go ahead and buy a JHead or e3d, it'll be worth the effort, and the cost isn't much different.
  
  
• Print Quality is pretty good - some ooze as mentioned, but I think at least some of that can be blamed on my retraction settings (still working on ironing out those..). I had access to a non-functional 3d printer at my office (early mendel variant) that I am currently working on rehabilitating, and the print quality on my printer is better than my coworkers were ever able to get out of the office printer. There's room for improvement, but mainly in aesthetics and how much cleanup is required - mechanically they're perfectly sound.
  
  
• Electronics are a bit of a mixed bag - the RAMPS board is nice (glad I went with a RAMPS board instead of one of the other single-board solutions), but the stepsticks are of questionable quality (PCB material is oddly rounded on the edges like it was snapped by hand, and the trimpots don't behave like they're described on the wiki articles about the pololu-style drivers). I also suspect that the 'Arduino' is a Chinese knockoff instead of a real Arduino, but it looks and functions just fine. The heated bed supplied works great, kinda wish they included a Power Supply (I sourced mine here.
  
  
  Things I want to improve include:
  
  
• Endstops: i3x uses little clips that friction-fit on the smooth rods, but they're a bit too loose for my tastes, and aren't very easy to adjust small amounts. I'm planning on trying this out for my z-axis at least, which will hopefully solve that problem.
  
  
• Extruder/x-carriage: The slot that the hotend mounts in is covered by the large gear on the extruder, so I have to unmount that gear to remove the hotend. I had some crappy filament snap off just out of reach (testing some of the old PLA stockpile that was purchased with the work printer a few years back), and had to remove the hotend to get it out - since that gear attaches to a locknut, it's a massive pain to remove. Looking at alternative x-carriages, but should be solvable since everything is standard sizes.
  
  
• I'm gathering materials to rework the wiring harness. Some of the wires are slightly shorter than I'd like, the thermistor wires are too short to bundle up with the extruder motor wires running over the top of the frame, and I really don't like the crimp connectors that they sent along for the motor wires - they're functional, but I've never had much luck with crimp connectors holding long-term, and they don't look good.

Thank you for the reply. I was looking at buying this on amazon, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oTZiybZ0PN7ZE, do you think that'll be a good one?

I noticed my heated bed stopped working after a >24h print a few days ago. Inspecting the bed-side wires, Everything looked alright, but when I opened up the casing (It's a Robo R1+), I found that one wire on the power supply melted down.

My options are to either replace the whole supply, OR to simply replace the wire. For reference, It's a S-360-12
. I'm pretty split on which one to go with, as they've got essentially the same amount of work to them.

I do find it interesting, however, that the burnout only caused the heated bed to stop functioning, as the power is delivered (and distributed by) the ramps board. I would have expected more than one thing to give out.

this one works great for me :
http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer-Project/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1448946029&sr=1-1&keywords=power+supply+3d+printer

Wow, you just solved it and I am an idiot. I ordered 2 Power Supplies, one was supposed to be this 12V 360W PSU for the RAMPS/etc. and the other is this 24V 500W PSU exclusively for the Heated Bed.

I could have sworn I double checked but I just looked and it seems I have 2 24V PSUs. Was looking for the model number on the one connected to the RAMPS and it says s-360-24 on the side sigh.

Well that explains why it fried it. Time to return that for the correct PSU.

If it's useful, I too just got started, and built a similar drone. When it came to charging, I had to read a ton of stuff. Here's what I did (all non-referral Amazon links. you may find cheaper on banggood if you want to wait forever):

ISDT Charger

12v Power Supply

Balance Charger

To connect these up, it may be useful to have some extra XT60 plugs since the power supply won't have XT60, and neither does the balance charger.

With these optional parts, I was able to make a nice looking (and more safe) charger from the power supply, along with a 3d print available here


Voltmeter

Power plug

I found this to be a pretty fun project, and wasn't as expensive as some options I saw on HobbyKing or everywhere else. To be fair, it wasn't the cheapest option either.

Probably not, get this power supply https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=eTopxizu+12v+30a+Dc&qid=1555679452&s=gateway&sr=8-3 and also get a v6 hotend, trianglelab sells near identical ones for $15, the stock heatbreak has a tendency to fall out

8" coaxial x4 $52 shipped

12" sub $30 shipped

Bluetooth head unit $37 shipped

sub amp $50 shipped

PSU $20

box and miscellaneous puts you over budget a tad. But powering the coaxials with the headunit, efficient sub... should sound good and get loud.

I have everything daisy chained together from a 12v power supply.


3528 2 Pin LED Strip Jumper Connector... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0739V9DRR?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Striveday™68pcs 2p Spring Connector... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KT91OEW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Regular red/black wire.

eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Grey Wire Connector Pack, Bag of 100... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01L0GN4YQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Should get you in the right direction.

How are you gearing down the motor that you linked? At 4500rpm its going to have very little torque. I'd go for something like this paired with something like this.

Just a cheap one from Amazon. Someone did a video about how much power the various parts of the A8 pulled, I think the bed was 11watts, the hot end 4watts and one watt per stepper. And that the stock psu struggled to put out 20 watts. So the one I got was 30 watts and both the bed and hot end heat up faster. I went ahead and set up dual mosfets, because why not? They cost 10 bucks for 2 and potentially divert 15 watts from passing through the notoriously prone to melting motherboard.

eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project  https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_em_taa_Bs8uCbH65ZK0T

So how about you figure out what voltage the wallwarts output and then buy a single larger DC power supply to plug all of them into?
Something like this
Which would require cutting wires or

easier option no cutting

I bought this for my makerfarm i3 8"

Amazon link, 12V 30A -> 360W

The approach I'm taking on my Pi 3-based "field computer" project is to use a buck converter to supply constant 5V to a 20000mah battery pack, in turn being fed by a cheapo 12V 30A switching PSU. That battery pack can pump out more than enough current for my purposes, but for higher amperage loads you could simply inject USB power directly from the buck converter rails.

Total cost of approximately $30 is competitive with a quality 5V 10A AC adapter. The benefit with this setup over an adapter is that by skipping the PSU stage and feeding straight off the buck converter, I can run off of essentially any common DC source, including car and motorcycle batteries. Of course, if the input voltage isn't 12V, you'll have to dial it in with the buck converter, but that's a small price for the ability to tap into all those 18V power tool batteries and even 36V golf carts & wheelchairs.

Note that there are a BUNCH of those "DROK" brand converters on Amazon. Some are boost only, some buck only, others have both stages on the same board for greatly increased flexibility at the cost of some conversion efficiency. Watch the voltage and amperage specs, assume that any stated thresholds are optimistic, and plan to do thermal testing and add additional cooling if needed for your application. If you can find them, and they are getting hard to find, the MingHe D3806 is pretty much the best, and is actually the one I'm using.

Note also to take care with wire resistance! Most especially, be mindful not to end up with a design that's got all 6 amps flowing over some generic USB cable with 28 gauge 5v strands.

There's a 30a PSU on amazon with great reviews and is under 20 bucks with 2 day shipping. Your printer will likely never get near the 30a it's capable of.

eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/

This one will work great, has more than enough power for you.

I've got (one of these)[http://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1464028524&sr=8-8&keywords=12v+power+supply] powering my VHF radio and it seems to work well. It's easier to connect things to and supplies plenty of power for most anything. I also have on that powers my MTW MiniMax.

You will need to sacrifice an old PC power cord to hook it up though, so if you don't have one lying around, order one.

Save some money and get a 30 amp PSU. I run up to 12 gridseed on each one. All you need is a power cord to cut up.

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer-Project/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1397887222&sr=8-2&keywords=30+amp+led+power

Use this guide for the wiring instructions.

https://bitcointalk.org/index.php?topic=494625.msg5448809#msg5448809

I posted below, but if you're looking for a solid switching power supply for ~$30, here you go: http://amzn.com/B00D7CWSCG <- I have specifically purchased this one from this vender several times to great success. There are a number of people in my go kit group that have tested these as well and they provide clean 12VDC.

• You'll have to wire up an electrical plug and 12V out.
  
• Always exercise caution when dealing with household current.
  
• Make sure you understand household wiring (black =hot, white = neutral, green/bare = ground).
  
• Don't trust the colors to be correct.
  
• Make sure the power supply is set to match your house (115 in US)
  
• Use a multimeter to check each wire before attaching to the power supply.
  
• Use a power strip to test plugging in, they have their own circuit breaker
  
• User a multimeter to check 12V is coming out.
  
• There is a screw you can turn to adjust output voltage. I suggest you keep it above 12V, but as low as will run your equipment. If you find equipment turning off on transmit, raise it up. The higher you raise it, the more the fan will run. I optimize for quiet because these run on my desk. If you don't mind the fan noise, set it at 13.8V.
  
  

You could switch to one of the 12V LED supplies like http://amzn.com/B00D7CWSCG and it wouldn't have all the extra cables.

Yes, four of those kits, whatever enclosure you would like to use, a power supply like this one: 20A, 240W Power Supply, and the power supply kit.

That would get you to about $300 in materials.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG

The permanent upgrades are:

• eTopxizu 12v 30a - ~$25 (including shipping)
  
  
• Inlet Male Power Socket - ~$12 (including shipping)
  
  
• 210A MOSFET - $4.3
  
  
• RAMPS 1.4 including LCD screen - $30
  
  
• GT2 Timing Belt - $1.8
  
  total permanent upgrades: ~$73
  
  I've also bought consumables:
  
  
• Nozzle Print Head - 0.4mm 10 pieces - $4
  
  
• Nozzle Hot End Kit - 1 piece - $4 (including shipping)
  
  
• Teflon Nozzle Throat - M6x30mm - 5 pieces - $4
  
  
  No metal frame. I intend on building another AM8 or hypercube in the future.

any chance you can link me a psu? This is the psu I bought and switched the first time

360w Here is the PSU that I have.

Definitely do the safety upgrades first and foremost. Printing those will help you get familiar with the machine and give you a chance to dial in the calibration.

First thing I did to the machine after printing a test cube was install mosfets for the extruder and heat bed.

My first "real" print was a mount/shield for an upgraded PSU and fused power switch.

I'd also recommend you print some cable chains and belt tensioners as they will vastly improve operation and adjustment.

I got this one from Amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I didn't get wire yet. I'll just grab that from Fry's or something when I get to that step.

So far, so good. My husband and I are working on it together, so it's nice to have someone to talk things over. We didn't have much time yesterday, but we got the X motor and X idler done.

To be honest, I'm not sure what number it wants in the motherboard config. I did trial and error, and entering 3 seemed to get it to compile, and nothing else I tried did.

To my semi-trained eye, the PSU is not on. It's a generic one that doesn't even have an on button I can find. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

All it has is a switch to match if what level of voltage I'm giving it, which was correct. When I plug it in, the fan twitches and does nothing. When unplugged, the fan twitches back.

It isn't that their drawing current, its just how the rating works. Your "365w" power supply is only rated for 180w on the 12V side. The 5, 3.3, & 1.8 V "rails" as they are called, make up the other ~180w. Together the 12V, 5V, 3.3V, & 1.8V have a combined rating of 365w.

If you need a power supply that can do 30A on 12v, and you dont need anything other than 12v, then buy a 12v power supply. Like this one.

Yup, gotcha. I am constructing a box similar to yours but it will include a 12 volt transformer and a LinkSprite arduino relay board. I've purchased some 0.5 watt LED bulbs to replace all my 5 watt incandescent T5 bulbs.

My first thought would be to get these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01MG9KYCD?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00DTOAWZ2?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00XFSNKXS?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7CWSCG?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

You’ll get 10 DMX channels of RGB control that can support 10ft of LED strip each. Put a few inches of LED in each lantern then connect to the next, so you’d be able to link together about 15-20 lanterns or more on a single channel. Won’t be “individually” controllable, but you’ll have control over the groups of lights that are connected. Do this for each of the 10 channels and you could easily fill a room.

Super interested to hear everyone else’s approach for this

What do you think about this piece of chinese garbage. I have 5 fury's
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7CWSCG/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1HDGI9AFU8TMD

I got this really dodgy one for $18 on Amazon, and it has done well for over a year.

A few of these

Re: power. It sucks about 13a at 50w... I run mine on:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7CWSCG

It can go up to about 15v out. I run it at 14.2 or so to keep the voltage drop at 50w above 12vdc..

No real issues with it so far.. For $20 you can't go wrong.

As a fellow Mac user, who also has a prusa mendel; I would highly recommend you use OctoPrint + a Raspberry Pi 3. This may not be a just starting out configuration but it makes life a lot easier in controlling the printer.

I use Slic3r for Mac configured to talk to the OctoPrint server through an API call, and I can send gcode to my printer across the network from the Slic3r application. With the RPi camera installed I can keep an eye on my prints without having to be in the same room.

Also you may be happier with:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This PSU is a bit cheaper than your standard ATX PSU, it may be a good choice if you're looking to try this hobby out as cheaply as possible. It is a more difficult way of going because you will need to print something like:

http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:199089

To keep live 120VAC from being exposed on your bench.

Path of least resistance to getting started:

Slic3r > Repetier Host or PronterFace or Cura > Printer

The best way I've found (easiest):

Slic3r > OctoPrint

Seeing as I have the same printer and host OS configuration, feel free to DM me and I'll answer any questions you may have.

PSU: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Fused Switch: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ME5YAPK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Mosfet: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The PSU has a built-in fan that kicks on and off when the PSU gets warm. I don't plan on printing things with any crazy high temperatures, so these upgrades were probably a bit overkill, but I'd rather have components that are a bit more trustworthy than what comes with a $150 kit.

Awesome! I'm going to be installing it in the next day or so. Have all the hardware, and just printed the last of the printed pieces over the weekend. I did some dry fitting though, and I think the 852mm belt may be a touch short given the design for the printed X carriage bracket. But wouldn't be hard to modify the model for that piece to move the hole for the leadscrew over a bit to make it work. Just an FYI in case you run into the same issue when you get all the parts.

Also, for your power supply, make sure you're testing it with the heatbed and all stepper motor cables securely attached into the back of the control box. I too thought my power supply was shot when I tried testing it after I had opened up the control box and the power supply itself and replaced all the fans, and the control box didn't turn on. So I ordered a new one. But I was puzzled when the new one arrived and had the same problem...then I plugged in the cables to the back on a whim, and suddenly it worked! I guess the heated bed or something completes a circuit needed to feed power to the main boards.

If the powers supply truly is dead though, this one is a direct replacement and has been working for me.

I ordered this one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00D7CWSCG?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd
 
It was easy to install and has worked well. You just need to pay attention to where you hook the wires as it's a slightly different setup than the original one.

This is the PSU I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D7CWSCG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I printed these belt tensioners on my other printer so I could put them on during the build: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1784375

I do have some better belts on the way and actual idler pulleys since this thing doesn't have them. I was considering doing the AM8 mod as well, but I'm impressed with the rigidity of the lexan(?) frame, so I may try to do an AM8 build from the ground up, instead of upgrading this guy.


Do you have a photo of the issue you're seeing? Do the stock gcode files the SD cards come with do it too? It sounds like a slicer issue or the rear end stop isn't getting hit.

I run it off the extruder fan. It takes very little power. Mine came with a 240 watt 20 amp power supply that I updated to a 360 watt 30 amp and I have the heat bed mosfet mod as well. It's pretty cheap on amazon. I am not saying you need to do this to use the LED mod. This is a remix of a design that used a full panel and this uses half of that panel.

Okay, should I buy this with it then too? https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=pd_bxgy_328_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MEEX8MJ59788QT3RA8TJ

Buy this one...add your own power cord and you are good to go. Less than $20

Just an FYI, I see you mentioned
>
> few hundred for a power supply
>

If you're buying the power supply in the US, they should not be that expensive at all. Watch the QRZ swapmeet if you want to buy something used, even new they are not that expensive.

Switching:
http://www.aesham.com/switching/mfj-4125p/

Linear:
http://www.hamradio.com/detail.cfm?pid=H0-004427

If you're handy with electronics, I've even seen people use these $25 units to power their radios, 30A switching, you just need to supply your own power switch and cord and enclose it some how so its safe.

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer-Project/dp/B00D7CWSCG

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer-Project/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1432082157&sr=8-1&keywords=360+watt+power+supply


The main issue is the wiring in the controller itself. It might be too small of a gauge.

It isn't huge, so I'd say go for it.

I almost want to say try swapping it with a plain 12V 30A supply. ATX power supplies are just as prone to failure. Have you actually measured the output voltage while it's under load? Like a 1ohm bed will eat up 12A and that doesn't leave much left on a 15A supply. I think hot end heater cartridges are usually in the <5A range, throw in your motors and then you're out.

So it's not the print time that's the issue then? So is it just failing when it tries to use the outer parts of the bed? Can all your axis move relatively freely?

Granted depends on if you are working with 12 volt or 24 volts. Any reason why you want to go that way vs say a 12 volt 30 amp supply? like https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG

just wondering why you are looking at an 80 dollar power supply.

Will try that for sure.

I have a 5a power supply powering the whole chain currently, the amp and the driver. Could stepping up to a bigger supply help? I have access to one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4xBIzb5JGGCF3

I know it's overkill but it's free.

Thanks! Sounds like you have some good experience with this. I used this kit from Amazon which has the Arduino UNO clone, CNC expansion shield, stepper motors, stepper drivers (with heat sinks) and endstops. I was thinking of using this power supply wired with a buck converter to power the Arduino UNO with DC step down from 12V to 5V, while the expansion shield/drivers get the full 12V. I think this should have enough current for the whole project since 30 amps should power the motors, UNO, and most minor accessories (like fans or LCD screen)

This is the one I bought https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_zrXHub1S5DNE3

I started putting my i3v 12" together last night. This is the PSU I got. Amazon

I initially ordered a different, more expensive, psu from amazion, but when I had gotten it, it was missing screws and the QA seal had been broken. I returned it and ordered the one linked above.

As for wiring, I got mine off ebay Here. I prefer this over the standard speaker wire shown in the instructional videos as it is near impossible spotting the white stripe on the wire from some brands. The item was delivered in 3 days which I find quick. It was delivered to the Midwest from Maryland.

I've had no problems whatsoever using a dedicated 12v 30amp power supply, and they're WAY cheaper than an ATX.

I've used this on a Solidoodle2 Pro: Amazon Link

Yeah, this needs mentioning here. Some basic calculation will yield a pretty high amperage power supply.

I = P/V I is current, in amps 123w/12v is over 10A. No big deal in a jeep with some heavy duty solid core wiring, but more than your average power brick will put out. You'd need something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG&ved=0ahUKEwiN8Pfn_rHSAhUF5oMKHSxZAgEQFghQMAE&usg=AFQjCNHaYkgXAOs_nrHVPAe2gk0bsPVFUg&sig2=wjf_y3zkqzImfpRRUSyZpA

I recommend a supply like this https://smile.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1542145909&sr=8-4&keywords=12v+30a+supply if you're going to have more than one strip. The smaller supplies with barrel connectors usually top up around 5 amps, and I like to avoid running these maxed out. You also can't expect nice steady voltage; less quality devices will flicker.

I've had good experiences with the generic metal-box power supplies, so I try to go with those.

Is this the one you are referring to http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer-Project/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=pd_cp_pc_0. If not please link to the one you use.

From California and this is the PSU:

http://www.amazon.com/Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer-Project/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1416932122&sr=8-1&keywords=12v+30a+power+supply

Soo I want to get a new stock motherboard and add in a mosfet. Gonna do a power supply while I’m at it.

Any of you guys have any opinions on these 3??


https://m.gearbest.com/3d-printer-parts/pp_540286.html?wid=1433363&currency=USD&vip=15349676&gclid=Cj0KCQjwidPcBRCGARIsALM--eO1G6z7PdZibMITTrvmjlOlWbXK2EqFK6k8FgMdH5evgKiB3-JVxX4aAoZEEALw_wcB

https://m.ebay.com/itm/ANET-A8-MOSFET-Board-Upgrade-3D-Printer-Heated-Bed-Power-Module-i3-Heatbed-/292227104555

eTopxizu 12v 30a Dc Universal Regulated Switching Power Supply 360w for CCTV, Radio, Computer Project
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VkBLBb91CZE2N

This one will probably be easier to tell from since one of the pics is a schematic.

I guess my question was more aimed at asking whether or not it would be a good idea to use one of these for a vapestation. It's not a PC power supply, it's sort of an all-purpose thing, but the question is whether or not it's meant to handle short burst heavy loads rather than constant low load like from a CCTV or radio.

Brand doesn't matter much. I would use a 12V power supply, and get 6 5V step-down regulators for each mg996r. The main power supply has enough power to supply every servo, and the step-down regulators should be plenty to power each servo individually.

12V, 360W Power supply - https://www.amazon.com/eTopxizu-Universal-Regulated-Switching-Computer/dp/B00D7CWSCG/ref=sr_1_6?keywords=12v+power+supply&qid=1563367443&s=gateway&sr=8-6

5V, ~15W Step-down Regulator - https://www.amazon.com/DROK-Adjustable-Converter-Regulator-Transformer/dp/B07N3QT628/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?keywords=5v+step+down+regulator&qid=1563367529&s=gateway&sr=8-2-spons&psc=1

Something else to consider. Most radios spec 13.8 +/- 15%. So you have until 11.73 when you’re out of spec. When you start at 12.6, your less than a volt away from the bottom. That’s why the majority of people use power supplies. Batteries work obviously, just not the ideal thing to use all the time. You could buy one of these and an extension cord and probably be way better off in the long run.