Reddit mentions of Evapo-Rust The Original Super Safe Rust Remover, Water-Based, Non-Toxic, Biodegradable, 1 Gallon

https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537385553&sr=8-3&keywords=rust+remover

Evapo-Rust is really good too. I found an entire cart of Snap-On tools in a warehouse I moved into. Evapo-Rust did an unbelievable job.

I just embarked on this journey and I'm having a great time.

With the help of some members of this sub, I purchased 5 planes on eBay -- 2 Stanley #4's (both Type 13), 2 Stanley #5's (Type 9 Record and Type 17), and a Keen Kutter 4. I then asked a bunch of questions here and did a bunch of research on plane hunting and restoration. Special thanks to /u/abnormal_human and /u/Graphus for their comprehensive and helpful answers. Once they are all complete, I plan to use them all a bit and then pick two to keep and resell the rest.

Some sites that helped me a bunch were:
http://www.hyperkitten.com/tools/stanley_bench_plane/start_flowchart.php (Dating & Typing)
http://www.supertool.com/StanleyBG/stan2.htm (Basic Info -- Numbering and such)

And here are some video's that carried me through the process in a playlist I made: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVQzwcksAUsVg8wbeLRrH2u (pay special attention to WOmadeOD's video. It's 2 hours and the entire process.)

And here's a set just for sharpening: https://www.youtube.com/playlist?list=PLi-n7reKpXtVbQcKXTppUb8vpS6Eal11h

Some important tools and materials are:

• 220grit wet/dry, 150grit wet-dry, 8000 wet/dry
  
• A full kit of grits for blade sharpening down to .1 micron). The Sample Pack -- either 1 or 2 sheets of each is what I use.
  
• Granite slabs
  
• Metal File
  
• Evaporust - (this stuff is amazing, you can see the results in the albums below)
  
• Brushes (plastic, brass, steel bristle)
  
• Dupli-Color semigloss black engine enamel (Dupli-Color # DE-1635)
  
• Spray Adhesive
  
• Sharpening/Honing Guide - I got the Irwin model from Amazon
  
• Rags
  
• Murphy's Wood Soap
  
• Olde English Wood Restorer
  
  I decided not to refinish the wooden bits on the planes and instead just clean them up because I wanted to keep some of the age look to the planes. I re-painted the beds and sides of the frogs if the plane's original color was black and it was in poor condition.
  
  I had planned to fill in all the albums with descriptions and make a post sometime this week when I am completely done but I might as well share what I have now.
  
  The cleaning, derusting, and painting are done and I've completely finished all the planes. I've started on another set of 10 planes now. I'll group them all and make a post directly to the subreddit once they're all 100% complete.
  
  Albums
  -------
  
• Family Photo Album - All planes completed. 1 Sold already and 2 are ending tomorrow
  
• Stanley No.4 Type 13 Sweetheart - Complete & Added to personal collection
  
• Stanley No 4c Type 13 Sweetheart - Complete and Sold for a $56 profit!
  
• Stanley No.5 Record Type 9 - Complete & Added to personal collection
  
• Stanley No.5 Type 17 (Purple Bed) - Complete
  
• Keen Kutter No.4 - Complete
  
  For some tips on picking a used plane, /u/abnormal_human told me:
  
  > Generally, the most desirable "types" for stanley bench planes are 11-15, but I wouldn't have an issue with a nice 9 or 10.
  
  > Looking at the timeline[1] again, it's type 12-15 that I like.
  > Type 9 is when the better frog/body interface shows up, which makes it easier to adjust the frog. I'm not interested in anything earlier than this.
  > Type 12, you get a bigger brass adjustment wheel, which I like.
  > Type 16 was the beginning of the end--the ogee shaped frog + the kidney shaped hole in the lever cap appears at this point. This is when I tune out.
  > That's not to say that you have to be this picky. There are lots of usable planes outside of what I'm looking for. > There's just so many moderately priced planes out there that it's easy to pick+choose and get what you want if you pay attention to the details.
  > ... the dating chart works pretty well for the common bench planes (#3-8).
  
  It is common for plane restorers to purchase a replacement blade, sharpen and use it, and keep the original in a safe place for collect-ability. For replacement blades as per /u/scewikea:
  > This is the answer I got when I asked before -- a few people around here swear that the Woodriver blades are really good.
  
  Here is a quick run-down of the restoration steps I took. I plan to embellish and elaborate more on them when everything is 100% complete in a full post to this subreddit:
  
  

1. Took apart and cleaned all parts with soapy water and a plastic bristle brush
   
2. Soaked in Evaporust for 24-hours
   
3. Cleaned all parts with plastic, brass, and steel bristle brushes while in Evaporust
   
4. Cleaned all parts with soapy water
   
5. Dried all parts completely and then wiped with mineral spirits to get any remaining H20.
   
6. Coated all parts in 3-in-1 oil
   
7. Repainted bed if necessary.
   
8. Reassembled
   
9. Using Sharpie to mark bed and wings, flatten all sides with sandpaper on a granite slab. Used 150 grit and 220 grit wet/dry.
   
10. Flatten lever cap contact point and front edge with 150g and 220 grit sandpaper, ensuring no burr exists on opposite face
    
11. Flatten chip-breaker (cap iron) contact point with 150g and 220g sandpaper, ensuring no burr exists on opposite face.
    
12. Adjust frog positioning for desired plane task (paper thin for smoothing No.4's, wider for No.5's)
    
13. Restore knob and tote. Cleaned with Murphy's Wood Soap and polished with Olde English Dark Wood Restorer. (I wanted to keep the patina on these parts instead of sanding them down to bare wood and re-finishing. They are old tools and I want that to be reflected somewhere that wouldn't affect performance.)
    
14. Sharpen blade with Scary Sharp method ( sand paper, Japanese Super Stone, 40 micron, 15 micron, 5 micron, .3 micron, and .1 micron grit progression). Cambered the blades of the No.5 I plan to keep but left all others 100% square so new users can adjust to their preference.
    
15. Test!
    
    Now, I have a set of 9 more planes -- a Dunlap #5, another Stanley #4 Type 19, an unbranded #4, and 4 Stanley Block planes (110, 2 x 220, 9 1/2, and an unmarked baby one), and a Sears block plane -- that I'm in the middle of restoring. After they're done, I have a nice Stanley #7 Type 13 Sweet Heart waiting to begin the restore. It's a great facet of this hobby!
    
    --------------------------------------------
    
    I'd be glad to share anything I've learned and answer any questions I can. If you wanna shoot me a PM, we can chat on gchat?

I'm not convinced that any of them are much better than the others, especially with a light application like this. Hand Tool Rescue uses Evapo-Rust and it seems to work pretty well. They make a gel that would probably work well in this application since you can just brush it on the head and not have to soak the wood in the liquid form.

you can take it apart and soak parts in evapo rust https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M0TLQ66/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

super easy. after you do that you'll want to clean the surfaces and apply some metal polish to prevent rust from coming back.

Some Evapo-rust would help https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66 There's a youtube channel that restores stuff like this too. I think I saw it posted on here once sorta recently.

Evapo-Rust is a surprisingly good product. I use it constantly to restore antique tools because it eats rust but won't touch the steel. I've tested that advertising claim on accident by forgetting and leaving stuff in it for weeks at a time. The only caveat I know of comes into play if you forget something that is only partially submerged. If anything happens to cause your exposed steel to rust then the concoction will eat the rust at the water tension line; if it continues rusting it continues to be eaten. I etched a line on a scrape that I left partially exposed in a non-climate-controlled shop with very high humidity; the condensation over a couple days kept up a continuous rust feed. Basically, if it's not fully submerged, just don't forget and leave your blade in for days at a time and I doubt you'll ever see an issue.

A PVC pipe at the right diameter and length, sealed on one end and you could drop your feder blade in and walk away. Come back after a couple of hours and wipe it clean. Deburr if necessary, oil/wax, and you should be done.

If for whatever reason you don't want to use oil or wax they also make a spray-on rust-inhibitor that so far has worked fairly reliably for me.

I highly recommend you Use this : Evapo-Rust The Original Super Safe Rust Remover, Water-Based, Non-Toxic, Biodegradable, 1 Gallon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00M0TLQ66/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_he9kDbMKZXCMV

It will get to even the deep pitted rust. In my experience this works much better than vinegar. I usually don't even use a wire brush after plates sit in evaporust for an hour or so. Based on how much you have you will probably need 2-3 gallons.

This product is a soak. I purchased a gallon jug for $21 on [Amazon] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00M0TLQ66/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498429496&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=evapo+rust&dpPl=1&dpID=51QNIj5clvL&ref=plSrch) I varied the time of the soak by the amount of rust on the tool. I checked on them periodically and used a brass wire brush on them before, during, and after the soak. The threads run effortlessly.

Amazon
Tractor supply has it and wall mart if your lucky

Can I ask you why it would make it worse? I'm considering using something like Evapo-Rust: https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66

Here are some of my Go-To's for restoring old tools and metal parts:

Rust removal: EvapO-Rust
Awesome because when you're finished with it you can dump it into the garden and your plants will love you.

Sanding/Polishing up metal: Dico Nyalox Nylon Brushes
These last significantly longer than their wire counterparts and don't throw metal bristles into your skin. You can easily work up from grey to blue, but I find that often I can just start with the orange brush and it'll move enough metal. The blue gets it extremely shiny.

Polishing metal: 3M Scotchbrite Light Deburring Wheel
*For final finishing/polishing, you want the 'Light Deburring' wheel. You'll then just need to buy a drill arbor that matches the hole and go to work. That's easier than buying a grinder and using that. The finish that wheel leaves on metal parts is insane.

For rusted steel, I use Evapo-Rust. Afterwards, you can bring them back to a satin luster with 0000 steel wool. The 4-ought steel wool also works well on aluminum.

get an inline fuel filter. most fuel lines are 5mm(3/16"?).

De-rusting a step-thru is a pain in the but. You can buy some toxic acid crap that will do it, but you have to be careful you don't get it on yourself. I let apple cider vinegar sit in it for a week, drain, strain and refill it every other day or so. Then I'll do a day or so of Evapo-rust

Seems to be on sale at the momend on Amazon with free shipping w/ prime. Harbor freight also carries it and with the 20% off coupon that is always available it can be had for about $23ish and it is reusable!

Man, that's awful. Sorry to hear about that.

FWIW, I recently refurbed a Landis 3-in-1 shoe machine and this stuff worked wonders for removing the rust. It's non-corrosive, and seemed to pull off almost all of the rust with very little effort.