Reddit mentions of FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter With Micca 6ft Optical Toslink Cable - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC

A decent system if it all works. The turntable is just OK, but perhaps that's all you need.

The Key to a turntable is the Tone Arm and Cartridge (stylus/needle). Your turntable appears to be a P-Mount, meaning the entire Cartridge assembly just plugs into the tone arm. There are many replacement P-Mount cartridge available. The tone arm look like a generic DJ tone arm similar to that found on Stanton, Technics, Audio Tecnica, and Reloop. That's not the absolute best, but still decent; no problems.

http://www.needledoctor.com/Audio-Technica-92ECD?sc=2&category=16684

http://www.needledoctor.com/Audio-Technica-311EP?sc=2&category=16684

This appears to be a more consumer version of Technics DJ turntables. And assuming it is in good condition, and well oiled, it is probably very good considering the price you paid.

Generally Technics are considered good equipment, and they are now re-entering the audio market again with a new line of equipment.

You can give us the model number of the amp and we will look up specs on it, or you can simply use Google to look up information on the amp. You should be able to determine the power, and the range of years in which it was made. If the amp is at least ~50w/ch, then it is most certainly worth having and using assuming it is in good working condition.

It is difficult to see the Amp Model number but the closest I can determine is SU-V78 - 100w/ch to 8 ohms.

http://www.hifiengine.com/manual_library/technics/su-v78.shtml

Oddly the Technics SU-V76 is also 100w/ch -

http://www.highqualitymanuals.com/images/large/products/HD/HD84//HD84_2.jpg

The AM/FM Tuner should still work, and will pick up radio stations just fine even with the most basic antenna.

The Cassette Player is an Antique unless by chance you still have a stack of Cassettes available to play.

The CD Player, assuming it still works should be fine as the standard for CD has been locked into place since its inception.

The speakers are fine; good sided. The key with older speakers is the Surrounds, the foam or rubber ring that attaches the actual cone to the frame. If foam these can deteriorate, and sometimes disintegrated over time. Gently touch or rub your finger on the surround and see if it is gritty or crumbling. If so the surrounds can be replaced for a fairly modest fee.

Given that you got this for FREE, there is one other aspect you could consider. It is possible to use a Stereo system to enhance the movie watching experience very considerably. However, modern TV do not have analog audio outputs, most have Digital Optical Audio out, though a few have Coaxial.

Given that you got a pretty nice system for free, you could spend some money, assuming you are into movie watching, and get a DAC (digital to analog converter) to allow you to plug the TV into the Stereo. These can range from about $25 for just the basic DAC, up to about $500 for a more complex multi-input DAC.

You can see a range of possibilities here -

https://www.amazon.com/s/ref=nb_sb_noss_2?url=search-alias%3Delectronics&field-keywords=DAC

The output of the TV is limited to a 48k Sample Rate about CD quality, so a very basic $25 DAC is probably adequate if you are not too serious.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468898121&sr=1-2&keywords=DAC

Some thing like this will give you one channel that is either Optical or Coaxial, another Coaxial only Channel, and USB-PC for connecting directly to a computer.

https://www.amazon.com/Cambridge-Audio-Azur-DacMagic-100/dp/B0078Q35PG/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1468898121&sr=1-10&keywords=DAC

The speakers, though I can really determine, appear to have at least 10" woofer, and they should sound pretty good. I think this will make a fine movie and music system.

I'd highly recommend this dac if you care about sound quailty. It is doing an amazing job for the money.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_107_tr_t_1?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KH2BW8ZS5XZQCS2VPB7K

edit: sorry this dac will only work for base ps4 and ps4 pro owners.

Boom

According to this your TV has an optical audio output (SPDIF). You'll get much better sound quality if you use that instead of the headphone output.

Use this to convert that digital into analog (output over RCA cables): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00F4ORTZ6/

Then an amplifier to output to speaker wires: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049P6OTI/ (or, slightly cheaper in black: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00C2P61FO/)

Cables you'll need, if you don't have them already, are a Toslink/SPDIF cable, a stereo RCA cable, and speaker wires. Buy them from Monoprice, or get ripped off buying them from somewhere else.

If you want even cheaper, you can forego the digital-to-analog converter and connect the headphone output straight to the amp, but if it were me I'd spend the extra $20 on the DAC.

Edit: after some more Amazon searching, I'd go with this DAC instead. A few bucks more, but much better reviews, includes a Toslink cable, and is powered by a standard micro-USB (cell phone charger) plug.

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-D3-Digital-Converter-Optical/dp/tech-data/B005K2TXMO

that will do what you describe.

That said, unless some labeling is obscured on your TV pic, it looks like that coax jack is an input.

Ideally, if you're connecting a PC to anything that makes noise, use an optical Toslink. Those are not electrically conductive, which means the only thing that gets transferred across is the digital sound data. Ground loops become impossible.

This obviously requires that whatever you connect to (an amplifier, or powered speakers) have an optical in. Alternatively, you could go with something like this https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

Without an optical out, you might wind up needing one of these, too: https://www.amazon.com/Signstek-Coaxial-Converter-Convert-Analogue/dp/B00FEDHHKE or something along those lines.

This all does cost more than a ground loop isolator, but it also doesn't do serious damage to the quality of the audio. It's better to break the electrical connection between the units than to try to filter out the 50/60 Hz line noise.

Try using the onboard DAC first. Depending on your audio source and speakers you may not even notice a difference with an external DAC. You can always one later if you really think you need it. FiiO D3 (D03K) $20.

​

Not unless you have a "headphone out" on your screen or you could use a DAC: http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1382205551&sr=1-1&keywords=DAC
That DAC would convert Optical to RCA then you could use a normal speaker set.

Here's Exactly what you are looking for. LINK
there are more inexpensive options, but this one is highly rated and comes with the optical cable

And then one of these to convert the Output (RCA) to 3.5mm
LINK


I'm going to be honest with you. By the time you buy this you would probably be better off buying an inexpensive surround souind with an optical input. Sony also makes wireless headphones that are compatible with the PS3 and PS4
I have this one and they work and sound awesome

Elite Version

You can always get a Digital to analog audio converter, that is what i'm planning to do.

here's an amazon link:
http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1376701898&sr=8-3&keywords=digital+to+analog+audio+converter

I would recommend you just get a small DAC with an optical input and RCA outputs. If you don't need anything but a stereo, digital-analog audio converter then it is very overkill. Fiio has something really small I was using at work, and it's perfect for this situation. Just run the optical cable from your motherboard.

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

Using an external DAC with optical will provide the least noise of all options (internal sound card, external DAC through USB, or optical) because no conversion happens within the PC. This also allows you a little more freedom of placement because you can get a longer optical cable and place the DAC where you need, closer to your speakers.

Not if you buy a DAC/preamp, an amp and speakers (a "receiver" is generally a preamp and amp in one unit). He's talking about piecing it together separately. I'm not necessarily recommending these items, but for example:

DAC:
http://amzn.com/B005K2TXMO

Amp:
http://amzn.com/B000VKXLBO

Speakers:
http://amzn.com/B003N18QK4

Wat you need is a digital analog converter usually revered to as a DAC. Now yes you might be able to get an amplifier with one but that would be a rather large change to the system. The alternative is to get a standalone DAC that converts the digital optical source to analog rca outputs. Here is an example of a DAC that would do.

You just need something like this. You might be able to find others cheaper somewhere else. This was just the first entry I found.

That particular TV seems to only be equipped with an optical digital audio output.

In which case, a setup would consist of the following:

1. TV connected via TOSlink cable connected to a simple digital to analog converter ($28)
   
2. DAC is connected to the amplifier you were suggested above via a standard RCA cable ($5.45)
   
3. … to either one of the amps you were suggested earlier
   
4. On the speaker front, you basically won't need anything more complicated than lamp cord from your nearest radio shack. Wiring is uncomplicated: Just make sure that you connect "black to black" and "red to red" for each speaker
   
5. As for the speakers you were suggested, among the two, the Pioneer is probably the better sounding one, but later this month, Micca is releasing a revised version named the MB42X, retailing for $80, that are supposedly much better than the old model. Review and measurements here - while I would've liked to see more reviews, it's definitely not looking bad for that low price.
   
   Also: If my explanation above looks complicated - I'm fairly certain that once you have this connected, you'd think that it sounds better than even a $1000 soundbar, all for a price of less than $200.

Don't mess with headphone plugs. Your TV doesn't have analog audio outputs on. To use that amp (analog only) you'll need a converter $25 and an RCA cable. The problem with this is volume control. You'll have to get up every time you want to adjust the volume because that amp doesn't have a remote. Oh yeah and you're going to be very limited by power as that amp probably only puts out 20 watts at best. While more than enough for a desk it might be kinda light for a decent sized room especially with no sub handling the bass. I would pass honestly.

The correct way to do this would be to get an AVR and speakers. That way you can have all the inputs you need and all the control you need over the sound. You also get a remote and more than likely an app for you phone to control volume. You could go for a more expensive amp but they are almost as much as a refurb AVR.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

+

https://www.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC

I got this one for use with my HD558s. I'm then running a 30 ft long headphone extension (15ft from computer to link box, 15 ft for Vive cable) back to a Behringer headphone amp and then a DAC. I also have other 15 ft extensions (DisplayPort, USB, power) from the link box back to my PC.

The end result? 30 ft of Vive leash, headphone cable is cable-wrapped back to a proper headphone amp and DAC. No plugging/unplugging, and good sound quality to boot.

Granted, take everything I just said above with the understanding that I don't have a Vive yet, and it might work great...or not!

Are you sure there isn't a minijack somewhere? Sometimes there are two sets of IOs, e.g. one on the back of the TV, and one on the side.

If there is only an optical out, you'll need a DAC (digital/analog converter) and an amp (you need some sort of amp regardless).

Here's an example of an inexpensive DAC https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO . I have no idea if that's any good; you'll want to get recommendations for the best options, but it would certainly work.

Amps are more complicated, and many people will put as much thought into their amps as they do their speakers. For a solid budget option, the Lepai 2020 https://www.parts-express.com/lepai-lp-2020ti-digital-hi-fi-audio-mini-amplifier-with-power-supply--310-3000 will work well. It's a bit underpowered for e.g. the Overnight Sensations, but the higher sensitivity of the C-note should make it suitable unless you want quite high volume.

There are also amps out there with built-in DACs, so will have an optical in and stereo out all in one box.

Something like this?

Is there a better option? I appreciate your help.

I'm going to assume you want to use this for a desktop, gaming setup. If you could stretch out to $200, you could grab the Audioengine A2s, but if you want to operate on super low costs, try this.

DAC + Vintage receiver + Passive (bookshelf) speakers

You can find a good vintage receiver for cheap at thrift stores or Craigslist. Same with the speakers. You could probably do that on less than $100 depending on where you live. If you need help hooking stuff up, message me.

If you leave the Impedance set on the '4 ohm' selection, play the amp for an extended period of time and see if it heats up. Because the speakers themselves are only 8 ohms, you should not have a problem.

Does the receiver have a tape monitors in/out? that would be the way to hook up an external EQ, that way you can punch the EQ in or out to your liking. Personally, I haven't hooked up my external EQ in over 5 years, they just impart distortion.

If you want a DAC to simply bypass your onboard analog and don't need any amplifications (since you have the receiver) try the FIIO D3

http://www.amazon.com/FiiO-D3-Digital-Converter-Optical/dp/B005K2TXMO

It's cheap and guys around these parts that have them say they do a great job

Unless you have a receiver you might be SOL. You could buy a cheap pair of speakers and one of these bad boys.

FiiO makes a cheap but solid dac ($19.99 from parts-express.com or if you have prefer Amazon it's 24.99 with prime)

1 optical in, 1 coaxial in, 1 3.5 line-out, and L-R output to your amp.

I couldn't believe it myself. I bought this converter but I think I should probably look into a better one.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=pd_lpo_sbs_dp_ss_3?pf_rd_p=1944687642&pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B003OND0N4&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=1NXC66PM5XPDH76SRSG6

If all you have is Fiber Optic out and still want to use that setup with individual 3.5mm in's you are pretty much just going to need a receiver and that receiver is going to need multi-channel OUT which is a premium feature.

Best/cheapest bet is to just get one of these and one of these use it as stereo.

Or break down and buy a receiver and speakers. ~$500

I had this one hooked up to an Apple TV - http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&m=AFKH6OU9WWNFS but I'm now recommending this Apple TV to VGA/audio adapter because it's a lot easier to set up, only one cable out of the Apple TV, and it doesn't require external power.

I had the same issue with my Panasonic. If you can't find anything you could always get something like this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1487737139&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=dac.

It worked great for me to hook up an old 90's receiver.

If your only source is a PS4:


Connect PS4 to an optical audio DAC like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494292669&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=optical+audio+dac&dpPl=1&dpID=51uod%2BuYiQL&ref=plSrch

The output of the DAC can then connect to your receivers audio input (can't see input names on that model as the online pictures are crap)

Connect PS4 hdmi to tv as normal. Make sure you enable optical audio in the PS4 audio menu.

That's how I would set it up anyways. Your tv doesn't have optical output (rare) and your receiver doesn't have hdmi or optical so you're having to do audio analog and video hdmi/digital. Good luck!

You could also get rid the ground loop by using the optical out of the MacBook Pro into a DAC then to the speaker system.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1398806239&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002JFN1A/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1398806328&sr=8-1&pi=SX200_QL40

I currently have the Kef Q100's and just upgraded from the Onkyo TX-8220 (very similar to the 8020). I also have a Pro-Ject Debut Carbon turntable, and was very happy with the combo at the price. If you have a smaller listening space, I would stick with the 100s and save the extra money for a turntable and potential external preamp down the road (the internal preamp of the 8020 is serviceable, but you could do better at around $89 with the U-Turn Pluto).

As Armsc mentioned above, you'll be limited to just analog inputs on the 8020, but you can also pick up an external DAC down the road if you need optical or coax. All in all, I think you'll be very happy with your upgrade. Enjoy!

Is the TV's audio out jack a single RCA? If so, this is what you will need. Will also work for digital optical (that's the cable it comes with)

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/

you'll need to set your xbox one to output audio as PCM if it does not automatically. obviously since its not out yet i cant tell you the steps.

Yep, I used to do that as well before I got the splitter. Something like this should do the trick [FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter] (http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1383164833&sr=8-5&keywords=optical+to+rca). It also comes with an optical cable (the PS4 does not come with one). You can connect the optical cable from your PS4 to the splitter and then RCA out from the splitter to your amp/mixer.

Or:

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451577317&sr=8-1

Only output I see is optical audio so you'd need something like this to convert the digital signal to analog.

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

No, that's just electrical interference from your computer being a computer. To fix it, you'd have to get a cheap DAC like the Behringer UCA202 or FiiO D3 , other than that, just deal with the static.

Yeah you need a DAC that accepts optical input. the fact that a $699 DAC/AMP doesn't come with this option is a joke. I hope nobody in this sub recommended this product.

However, if you think it sounds pretty good the way it is right now, why change it? The cheapest optical DAC is the FiiO D3. If you connect:

PS4>Optical>D3>RCA>Deckard

the sound will be processed by the D3 and amplified by the Deckard. Tight now your PS4 is processing the sound, send line out to the Deckard and the Deckard amplifies it.

you need an external sound card like this:
https://www.amazon.com/EC-Technology-Aluminum-Headphone-Microphone/dp/B014F2VUO8/ref=sr_1_14?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1480617365&sr=1-14&keywords=external+sound+card
be sure to get a usb extension wire as the PS4 is just an awful shape that doesn't fit usb's that have a large base like most sound cards

OR

a DAC with an optical cable like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=ox_sc_sfl_title_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFKH6OU9WWNFS


a suggestion for a mic if you need a great one that's cheap:
https://www.amazon.com/Sony-ECMCS3-Omnidirectional-Stereo-Microphone/dp/B0058MJX4O/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1480617666&sr=1-3&keywords=sony+omnidirectional+microphone


you can also use any mic that plugs into a usb slot like a blue snowball or other desktop mic. I'm not sure what exactly your setup is so I can't really tell you whats best but hopefully this helps.

FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter With Micca 6ft Optical Toslink Cable - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_U-0ryb4GEWGRE

Behringer Microamp Ha400 Ultra-Compact 4-Channel Stereo Headphone Amplifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000KIPT30/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_5b1ryb9K5W9Q9

Inelegant and cheap solution I use for my 598s. You can pay more for a mixamp, but meh. This gets loud. You may need another aux cable... I don't recall if the DAC came with one, as I needed a long one that I got separately.

Well, you only have optical audio out, i don't know if your TV's remote controls the volume of this output or not, but hopefully it does. what you need is a DAC for optical audio, something like the Fiio D3 would probably do just fine (and could be powered by one of the USB ports on the TV) then you just need a pair of RCA to TRS cables like this connecting the a5+ would be pretty much the same, just use normal RCA cables instead of RCA to TRS

I don't believe the One is compatible with a mouse at all. You'd have to mod a controller to act mice like to get that functionality.

As far as the monitor goes, many monitors these days accept HDMI input, I'd get one of those. Worse case you'd need a HDMI-to-VGA adapter.


Edit:

External speakers with 3.5 input can be used with a VGA adapter (see below) or with a digital to analog adapter (see below)



Digital audio to analog adapter

HDMI to VGA +3.5 audio adapter

Not entirely sure this is what you are looking for or not http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

Yeah. You're missing the fact that the end of that cable that plugs in to the Bose isn't a 3.5mm plug.

You actually need a Digital to Analog converter like this along with a RCA to 3.5 adapter for this to work.

Yes, and yes.

The x12 headset requires stereo RCA (red & white) audio jacks to get game audio, and the Xbox One does not provide that. So, you will need something else, and that "something" depends on the rest of your setup. Check for an audio output on the stereo system or TV you plug your Xbone into. If none is available, you can use the Xbone's optical output and something to convert it to RCA -- here is one example I found just searching for "Optical to RCA".

Also, the chat cable (that goes from the headset to the 360 controller) will not plug in to the Xbone controller directly; you will need the Stereo Headset Adapter. Plug it in, and then use the balance controls on the adapter to be completely on "chat", so that it only emits chat audio and not game audio.

Note that you can get away with just using the Stereo Headset Adapter to get both game and chat audio through the controller and the chat cable, but in my experience with the x41 headset, it sounds like crap, because the headset is expecting a mono chat audio source and processes it as such.

Honestly, for the price and hassle, you'd be better off just picking up the Stereo Headset. You'll get the same stereo quality of the x12, but it's just using a single cable connection to your controller, and it'll cost as much or less as the equipment you'd need to get the x12 hooked up.

Something like this

Plus a rca stereo to female 3.5mm plug

You need a digital to analog converter (DAC).

Cheap Option

They range to from affordable to crazy expensive depending how much of an audiophile you are.

Does your tv have headphone jack?

yeah that rca to hdmi is converting the wrong way. you can get sound out the toslink so maybe this is what you need. https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

A number of possible solutions. Your TV has optical sound out. So you will need something to convert the optical digital sound signal to an analog signal (DAC). Then you will need something to amplify the analog signal to drive a speaker (amp). Then of course the speaker itself.

Here are some possible solutions:

• Bluetooth transmitter that takes optical input ($25-50) and two bluetooth speakers ($25-50). Many of each to choose from. You'll likely want a BT speaker that takes an AC adapter so that you can just plug the speakers into the wall outlet. So just make sure the speaker comes with some kind of AC adapter. Many of them are USB powered, so if you have a bunch of AC to USB plugs lying around, you should be all set.
  
  
• Small integrated DAC + amp like the SMSL Q5 Pro (~$100). Micca MB42 speakers ($60). The Q5 Pro has a remote, so they can adjust the volume of the speakers easily.
  
  
• Small DAC like the FiiO D3 ($25) and powered speakers (i.e., the amp is integrated into the speaker) like the Micca PB42x ($120). Volume control is a knob on the speaker.
  
  
• ... and now the controversial solution that will commit two /r/hometheater faux pas' at once. A soundbar (gasp!) possibly from Bose (double gasp!). If your parents have trouble hearing the dialogue in shows, there are modes for soundbars that are specially tuned to amplify talking. The Bose Solo 5 mini soundbar ($200) will take the optical input, convert to digital, amplify, and drive its speakers. It has a "dialogue enhancement" mode to boost the frequencies in human speech without making the background sound louder. Similarly the cheaper Amazon Basics version ($100) has a "news" mode that does the same thing. You may find that they can use these modes to hear the dialogue but not have to turn the volume up so high. Note the Amazon soundbar is quite long (31") while the Bose one is compact. You just stick the soundbar under the TV and they would not need to put speakers on their nightstands or do any wiring across the room.
  
  BT xmitter: https://www.amazon.com/HomeSpot-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Wireless-Headphones/dp/B00QV77YIC/ref=pd_sim_23_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00QV77XU6&pd_rd_r=S1FZ89HQSV360WXDPB6K&pd_rd_w=5L2XQ&pd_rd_wg=tT0TC&refRID=S1FZ89HQSV360WXDPB6K&th=1
  
  BT speaker: https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Portable-Bluetooth-Speaker-Black/dp/B01GF5ACUG/ref=sr_1_10?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496641001&sr=1-10&keywords=bluetooth+speakers
  
  SMSL Q5 Pro: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-Q5-Pro-Digital-Amplifier/dp/B017W12UCU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496640656&sr=8-1&keywords=smsl+q5+pro
  
  Micca MB42: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-MB42-Bookshelf-Speakers-Tweeter/dp/B009IUIV4A/ref=pd_ybh_a_5?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=M8DF9BG3KN9NN102A6Q6
  
  Fiio D3:https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO
  
  Micca PB42x: https://www.amazon.com/Micca-PB42X-Powered-Bookshelf-Speakers/dp/B00NXAEPDC/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1496640689&sr=1-1&keywords=pb42x
  
  Bose Solo 5:https://www.amazon.com/Bose-Solo-TV-Sound-System/dp/B01AWLPUAG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1496639710&sr=8-1&keywords=soundbar+dialogue#customerReviews
  
  Amazon Basics: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01EK7TEL4/ref=psdc_3237803011_t1_B01AWLPUAG?th=1

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

Here you have. FiiO is a nice brand and you have the chance of connecting your current speakers.

Best of luck!

I came across the same issue when i was using a monitor with no headphone jack so i picked up one of these to solve the audio issue.

Optical to 3.5mm

but this was before they came out with the headset adapter. In the case of audio i would just go ahead and buy the Controller Adapter and use whatever headphones you have or you could spend a bit more and just get the Microsoft stereo headset.

Edit. clickable links

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1473807875&sr=1-2&keywords=dac + https://www.amazon.com/HDE-1-5m-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B0027NMHS6/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1473807883&sr=1-3&keywords=rca+to+3.5mm

Would something like this work?

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_9?s=aht&ie=UTF8&qid=1467909380&sr=1-9&keywords=digital+to+analog

Not really, unless you have bad electrical noise, a low impedance headphone (like 10-40 ohm) or perceive high sound distortion at high volumes. I recommend the Fiio D03K(https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1467657580&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+d3).

I've heard people talking about Optical Audio to RCA converters. This might work for PX21s.

I believe Zombait is correct, but it can fixed with a simple converter(here). However, with this you'll also need an RCA to 3.5 adapter.

With this set up, you should be able to get stereo in your headphones.

In my opinion, it seems to clean up the signal just that extra bit.

I have this little guy and it's a great DAC.

I don't know how well it works, but you could try this HDMI Audio Splitter. Alternatively, if your tv supports toslink or speaker outputs, you could use adapters to plug your tv into headphones TOSLink to 3.5mm/RCA

Buy this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Easiest thing to get is a combination of what others have said - https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1479631264&sr=8-4&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=optical+to+rca&dpPl=1&dpID=51uod%2BuYiQL&ref=plSrch - this is an optical to rca adaptor. Will do the job perfectly and you can pick them up for $10/15 if you go for no name brands. I've linked to the one I bought for exactly this and it works perfectly but there's no reason a cheaper one wouldn't be just fine either.

I bought the Magni 2 for $59 on Amazon the day the Magni 3 came out. They said I can't upgrade to the 3 for free (understandably). Do I need a Magni 3 though? I have Beyerdynamic dt 880 600ohms. Also do I need a fancy DAC or will a cheap $25 one work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1506302277&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=dac&dpPl=1&dpID=51uod%2BuYiQL&ref=plSrch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Y'all can use this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1449793298&sr=8-9&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&keywords=amp+speaker+dac

And this

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0049P6OTI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1449793383&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=Speaker+amp&dpPl=1&dpID=41oY-bq%2BwEL&ref=plSrch

Just check what wattage your speaker can take. Also get a y cable so that both left and right audio will go to the one speaker.

it does not :(
looking into this combo atm, not sure how it will work

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFKH6OU9WWNFS


http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFEMMVQ/ref=ox_sc_act_title_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Ohhh.

So what's the video connection to the monitor? HDMI, DVI, VGA?

You would need to go from digital audio out of the PS4 to analog audio, using something like: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=AFKH6OU9WWNFS then the red/white RCA connectors on that box can be adapted to connect to your speakers with the right cable.

Do you think this might help http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00 . The problem sounds like audio interference coming from inside my computer. Whats odd is it's only affecting one of my speakers.

So i just bought a pair of fidelio l2's as my main monitoring headphones, and ive started looking into amps/dacs. Im a gamer, and wanted to see if i could get more out of my headphones. Ive browsed around a little on amazon and i found FiiO D03K dac and Behringer micromon ma400 amp. It looks like the output of the dac seems to be different from the input of the amp, and i was wondering if there any any ways to connect the two together. Are the two products even compatible together? Im fairly new to amp/dacs so just wanted to gather some info before i bought them.

An optical DAC also works well with monitors. Also gives freedom to lots of other analog inputs and outputs you might want your One audio going to.

I also had interference from the analog outputs of my AsRock motherboard. It wasn't always there and very well could have been my video card since that's the component that gets upgraded most often.

My solution was to get a cheap DAC since the audio setup on my PC is not "high end". As has been mentioned by others, DACs do sound different but it requires both (1) the ability to hear the differences, and (2) equipment that allows you to resolve those differences. I bought a FiiO D3 DAC from Amazon for 30 bucks. Output is totally silent (when it's supposed to be) and the sound quality through my ok-quality speakers is great.

That being said, the DAC in my main audio rig is an Arcam irDAC which I've been very pleased with. I paid $500 used and feel it's worth every penny, but I would never buy one for my PC setup because I don't do any kind of critical listening with it and it makes no difference with games.

I thought the pa4 might have a special order analog audio cable but I can't find one. Something like this should let you convert to stereo from the optical:

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO?ie=UTF8&at=&force-full-site=1&ref_=aw_bottom_links

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005K2TXMO/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

i just ordered this one from amazon and it should be here monday-tuesday. ill give it a whirl and report back! :) thanks!

the SMSL Mini 5 has a great headphone amp but you need a DAC. If you PC has an optical out you can get the FIIO D03K.

Parts list:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00JSNM1VQ/
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003L1717K/
and
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO?pc_redir=T1

Or

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005K2TXMO/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00NMBISBW/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00899BEGI/ (only for mini5)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0087X725S/ (for Mini5, gets very hot)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0094A1F3S/ (adhesive for heatsink)

You also need speaker wire.

Hey all! Looking to set up a basic, relatively cheap 2.0/2.1 (built-in subwoofers) sound system for a living room projector, primarily for use with an Xbox One. Doesn't need to be very loud or huge on audio fidelity, but after taking a look at the subreddit I've got the following parts list, but I wanted to make sure everything looked correct with the DAC and how it would work with the Xbox.

• Micca PB42X Speakers
  
  
• Which are connected via a pair (one per speaker) of 2RCA audio cables to
  
  
• A FiiO D3 DAC
  
  
• Which is finally connected to the Xbox One via an optical audio cable
  
  Thanks for the advice/help!

They exist. The proper term for one is a DAC, as you're taking a digital SPDIF (PCM) signal and converting it to analog.

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=pd_cp_e_1

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

I'v heard those monoprice active speakers are the best value at that price point.

For a DAC, I have the schiit audio modi. I think it is amazing, and is built buy a very serious company. However, at $100, it might be a bit too expensive considering the price of your other components.

If that is the case, then something like
http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1380723420&sr=8-1&keywords=DAC

or http://www.amazon.com/Behringer-UCA202-Audio-Interface/dp/B000KW2YEI/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1380723420&sr=8-8&keywords=DAC

might be reasonably as good as the modi at a much more reasonable price.

Looks like that soundbar has inputs for RCA, 1 optical, 1 digital coaxial and 3.5mm plus Bluetooth. And that TV only has optical audio out... so not a lot of options there. If it had RCA output like some other TVs it'd be easier.

What you COULD do is buy an optical to RCA converter such as this one www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/ and use splitters to split it between your sound bar RCA input and the RCA input of a subwoofer. I recommend this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002KVQBA/

The whole shabang would cost you about 120 plus tax and would sound pretty decent.

EDIT: I just noticed the fiio converter has RCA AND 3.5mm line out. So maybe you don't even need a splitter! You could just have the soundbar connected via 3.5mm to 3.5mm aux and have the RCA going to the subwoofer. That would be less clutter and you won't have to worry about losing signal power from using splitters :)

So, technically from just a DAC perspective, a $25 Fiio D3 (https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO) would solve my problem better than the $100 Fulla 2 because it has an optical connection?

I like the Fulla2, but I'm afraid I'll be screwed if I buy it and there is still interference. I looked at your two recommendations, but I don't have the necessary cables. Maybe a Micca Origen+ with optical would work?

This is what I used for the HDMI to DVI on my monitor and it worked fine - http://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B004S4R5CK?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage

I also used this to output the audio using SPDIF port on Xbox One to this box and then plug my Creative Labs speakers into this box. It comes with the SPDIF cable required, just need to power the box either by plugging it into USB port on Xbox One or use an iPhone charger mains plug and plug it into that - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00IXN6L3G/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I'm sure there's similar cables/dac's in US you could try.

This is the cable on Amazon US - http://www.amazon.com/BlueRigger-Speed-Adapter-Cable-Meters/dp/B004S4R5CK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448948987&sr=8-1&keywords=BlueRigger+High+Speed+HDMI+to+DVI+Adapter+Cable

and you could get this for the audio - http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1448949023&sr=8-4&keywords=spdif+dac

Or just use the headset adapter for audio like you said, but tbh I find there's times I don't want to be wearing headphones and just want it on speakers.

Just thought about it, you can't have them both connected at the same time. If the mac is on I'm pretty sure that it would output just the mac. So you are going to need a usb power supply to connect the D1 when you want to play XBOX.

BTW. I've got a Schiit stack Modi 2 + Magni 2 and own the Audioengine D1. In the end I didn't like the D1 because I use it for headphones and it didn't drive high-end headphones well also it didn't work in a USB dock which made it useless for me.

The Audioengine D1 has two outputs one for headphones and one for speakers; both are connected to the headphone amp (normally there would be a passthrough port), so you can't use the DAC part only if later on you want to upgrade with another amp.

Considering your needs I'd say get this two products; I would hate the extra-steps of disconnecting and connecting things to play or use the computer also the Modi 2 would still leave you needing a volume control for your monitors.

Schiit Sys for volumecontrol and input switch. ~60 dollars

Fiio D3 Toslink DAC to be able to plugin your XBOX (I'm assuming a high-end dac for gaming is not required): 29.99

• FiiO D3 DAC - $28 - http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1341261436&sr=1-1&keywords=FiiO+D3
  
  
• Pyle 75watt Amp - $50.46 - http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-2x75W-Stereo-Power-Amplifier/dp/B001P2R1RW
  
  
• Pioneer BS21 (Same as below) - $79.99
  
  This all costs $160. This isn't necessarily the setup I am recommending because I have never used any of these products. but at your price point and need of an optical input this is a way you could get better sound than a tv for cheap (DAC + Mini Amp + Bookshelf Speakers)

Ok, I think I might be on the right track now. What if I used something like this to convert the audio from digital to analog, and then used something like this to amplify the audio and send it to speakers? Would I need to be concerned with audio/video sync with this type of setup?

Yes, optical is S/PDIF. S/PDIF can actually use a coaxial connection as well, doesn't always have to be the toslink cable.

You're right, the kit you linked doesn't have optical in, so you'd need a DAC. Thankfully they're not very expensive. You can find them for even less than that but I'm a fan of FiiO, they make good stuff in the entry level.

That said, hopefully you can find that soundbar kit cheaper than that. When you consider $150 + $25 for DAC you're at $175. At that price you could make yourself a pretty good sounding 2.1 system like this:

• Dayton B652 speakers - $30/pair
  
• Lepai Tripath 20W per channel mini-Amp - $25
  
• Dayton 8" Powered Subwoofer - $80
  
• FiiO D3 DAC with toslink cable - $30
  
  Total = $165
  
  This would sound much better than any soundbar and is infinitely more expandable and configurable. Someone here may have a better standalone amp suggestion, but that one should be sufficient. You should still be able control volume through the TV, just make sure the digital out volume control is set to variable, not fixed.
  
  

My PC lacks optical/coax out ports; what are my DAC options under $40? Below are all my purchased components so far:

 

Here is my MSI motherboard.

Here is my Realistic STA-790 receiver.

Here are my (2) Polk Monitor 7s.

Here is the FiiO DAC I own but can't use apparently.

I did a little Googling and found a quick and dirty way to accomplish this:

Connect your optical line to one of these.

Then, connect one of these things to it.

Finally, hook up one of these guys.

Hopefully that helps!

the issue is that you not going to be able to get from any sound source to USB, you can get to RCA. (i though the soundsicks have an aux input which you can get from rca to 1/8in stereo for like $5) the issue is that any adapter from hdmi to dvi will have loss of sound or could have compatability issues becasue of hdcp. and you cannot run hdmi and use the analogue connector at the same time if i remember correctly, you could use something like this
(toslink to rca) http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1345491757&sr=8-2&keywords=toslink+to+rca

Probably not the cleanest solution, but it will let you add it to the devices currently connected to your BT receiver.

Bluetooth Audio Transmitter

Optical to Analog Converter

You'll need 2 or 3 things to do this cheaply.

Most importantly is an optical S/PDIF DAC, the Fiio D3 is among the cheapest and smallest packages available.

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1420920775&sr=8-1&keywords=optical+DAC

That unit comes with the optical Toslink cable you'll need. You also need a stereo RCA cable. Length will depend on your setup, but you probably won't need anything long. Monoprice is a good inexpensive cable supplier.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-1-5ft-Premium-22AWG-Cable/dp/B003L1717K/ref=pd_sim_e_9?ie=UTF8&refRID=0D43HPKDVJ2NTMMRYPE0

Now some TVs use a mini-toslink jack for Digital Audio out, it'll have the same size connector as a ⅛" headphone connector. The standard toslink is a pentagon shaped connector usually with a shutter to protect it from dust. If you have the ⅛" mini-toslink you'll also need an adapter such as this, if you have standard the included cable with the Fiio will work.

http://www.amazon.com/Monoprice-102671-Toslink-Female-Adapter/dp/B001V5HQAU/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1420921060&sr=1-2&keywords=mini-toslink

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

You can use any earbud type headphones with this adapter or this one with a pair of these cables.

There is no volume control on these adapters, so your TV has to control the volume (not sure if it does). I know my very old Bravia can't from the optical jack.

I am not sure if im following.

I bought a 48" Vizio - Linked here

The idea I have in mind is

DirecTV Box >> optical cable >> DCA - Linked here >> RCA >> Some sort of volume control? Preferably remote control >> RCA >> Both monitors and sub

Alternatively, do you know if I can send an optical cable to this? This would work out tremendously for me if this works.

Assuming the distortion you're hearing is caused by your interconnects and not the receiver / speakers themselves then sure -
the PS4 has a digital out / TOSLINK out.

Your receiver likely does not, but picking up a cheap DAC like the Fiio D3 below - it will let you go PS4 -> DAC -> Receiver and simplify your path and potentially eliminate the distortion you're hearing.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

I also have HS5's and I got the 2i2 on sale for $100. I got it mostly for the outputs for the monitors, but I felt wrong using a cheap dac with such expensive speakers. I previously had a Fiio D3 dac and used the 1/8" output to a 4 channel headphone amp, and then split one of the outputs from that to 1/4" jacks for each of the monitors. I didn't need a 4 channel amp, I just wanted a way to use headphones with separate volume control. That worked just fine honestly. Still great sound, I just like the simplicity and premium-ness of the Scarlett. Plus it's really nice to have a headphone jack on the front of the interface, where with my previous setup it was on the back of the amp. I also use an xlr mic to chat every now and then with friends when I play games, so that's nice. But that doesn't seem to apply to your situation. So if you want MUCH better quality than your motherboard's sound card, go with the Fiio and a couple adapters. It's also worth noting that the Fiio I mentioned only has optical toslink and coaxial input. If you motherboard doesn't have digital audio, you're out of luck for it. The usb on it is purely for power. But I'm sure there are nice usb dacs at a decent price too. If any of this doesn't make sense or you need more help, just let me know, I'd be happy to help or clarify! :D

Edit: also nice to see someone else on the Yamaha team. I am absolutely in love with mine. Worth every penny

Edit2: I actually use the xlr inputs on the monitors, even when I used unbalanced connections. I like how much beefier xlr connections are than 1/4". But that's purely personal preference. They worked just fine though

Last edit, I promise. I don't recommend using a super cheap dac like a $6 one. You spent $400 on monitors, get something decent or you might be wasting the potential of those monitors. The Fiio is $30, so try to aim for something around that.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000068O3C/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_8KJ7wb98HJERG
And
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=cm_sw_r_em_awd_MLJ7wbBXAEYJ0

And you'll be set

Seems like there is electrical noise going into your 3.5 jack. Can you hear it with headphones, too? Does your mobo have optical out? If so, you can connect it to a FiiO D3, then connect RCA from that to the Schiit system. I do this for my TV and it sounds great.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

So I'm just looking for a DAC then, that's a lot cheaper than a receiver or bar. Might not be the place to ask, but would my 598s power properly without an amp? I've had good experiences with FiiO in the past and this looks nice.

Something like this would convert the optical audio to 3.5 mm

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

from TV > this > amp via RCA > speakers

Or if your amp has optical in, just go straight optical from TV to amp.

> I got the ABH4000 and 4 AB1 amplifier module keyboards for $200 off kijiji.

ah, that's a much better cost equation.

there's nothing wrong with the ABH, just at that price i would expect it to have optical inputs. RCA inputs will be fine for the distance you're looking at, just be sure to get good cables so they'll be nicely made and properly shielded.

> Thanks for clarifying the zone 2 speakers. So that would not be a receiver output option.

looks like you've got two "zone 2" ouputs on that amp. the big red and black screw down terminals are definitely powered speaker outputs. but there's also a pair of RCA "zone 2" outputs. those you would use to send signal to the ABH4000.

i'm not sure if you would be able to select a different source for simultaneous playback, but it's possible.

>If there is an optical output on my receiver, sorry haven’t checked yet and I’m just heading out, could I use an optical output to RCA adapter in theory?

there is, but you're talking about a DAC ( https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ ) probably not going to offer you much advantage over the RCA. something to keep in mind if you find that you hear signal distortion or noise from the long RCA run.

-

your setup looks fine to me, since you're not paying through the nose for Harmon Kardon :)

https://www.amazon.com/FiiO-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

Use can probably use this to get audio out of you TV and into the computer/stereo speakers as you need.

Here you go OP. Get this. I own this and it works perfectly. I use it for sending the xbox audio to my PC so I can head it through my USB headset.

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1498353983&sr=8-3&keywords=fiio+taishan

The SMSL-SA98 will easily carry those speakers. I've been using it on my desktop for about 4-5 months and love it. It provides more then enough power to drive them, and it gets LOUD. I run mine with a schitt stack and don't even need to use high-gain at all.

I run RCA-RCA to the DAC, with RCA-3.5 to my PC. But you can buy a RCA-optic converter off of amazon (that's what I use for my TV). https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1497374003&sr=8-5&keywords=rca+to+optical+audio+converter That's the one I use and it works well.

Edit: Also as someone mentioned, you can buy a AD18 as well (this replaced the Q5 Pro which i also have used.) Comes with a remote and provides good power with more features then the SA98.

I'm currently looking for a new pair of headphones, below is what I posted in the sticky thread. Should I consider getting these?

I need help picking out new headphones for my PC

Budget - $100-200. (Would like to keep it under $150)

Source - Desktop

Requirements for isolation - Not an important factor (Not sure?, maybe this would be nice to have?)

Preferred type of headphone - Over ear, something comfortable

Preferred tonal balance - Don't have enough experience to answer this.

Past Headphones - Turtle Beach X12s (They were cheap and have served their purpose over the year, but would like to upgrade. Also, I'll be getting a stand alone Yeti mic so I don't need a mic to be on the headphones.)

Preferred Music - A large variety. Mainly will be using for video games, voice chat.

Other - I was also considering getting this based on a RL friends recommendation. Thoughts?

I am borrowing these from a friend soon to try out, but don't necessarily want/need wireless.

>The power speaker with optical on are a pricy.

True. But there are good and inexpensive DACs like this.

Yeah, sounds like you've tried everything. That's odd. It might be a problem with your PS4 but I don't know. You could check your PS4 video output settings. Maybe playing with those settings will fix the issue. Sorry I couldn't be more help.

I will say that I'm happy I upgraded to the Pro. It's not a huge improvement but games do look a little better and have a higher/smoother framerate. Plus, it has an optical audio output, so if you still have trouble with audio extractors, you can use a digital to analog audio converter to get audio from your PS4 to headphones or speakers. You can also add a mixer and get volume control. That's what I use now and it's great.

Digital to analog converter

5 channel mixer

Being new to the audio world, I decided to buy a DAC to improve the sound of my PC. After being sufficiently wooed by its reviews, I purchased the FiiO DO3K. https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO. However, my PC only has a 3.5mm jack, no toslink. Is buying a coaxial to 3.5mm converter going to work with this? Or should I just buy a new DAC?

Mines the same, it has a digital audio out but that's it. I have a decent stereo and subwoofer set up in my room that also has a headphone jack which would work perfectly but the stereo only takes analog input.

It seems like modern TVs are all moving towards digital out only. If yours is the same, you can buy digital to analog converters but a lot of them seem kind of questionable (some hiss constantly, some don't work for surround sound, some don't work at all for some TVs) and when I got my TV about a year ago it was ~$100 for one that supported surround sound. I just looked now and there is a highly rated one for pretty damn cheap compared to what they used to be here. Of course there are some 1-star reviews saying it doesn't work, but overall it seems pretty good for most people. I'm probably gonna pick one up personally because I almost bought one for $100 a year or so ago.

Thank you all for your detailed responses.

I ended up getting the LSR 305's from a local store with a good return policy. One of the employees took me into a closed test room where the 305 sounded much better. I really liked the ADAM F7 but for the price I couldn't justify over the 305.

During the testing I was able to turn on some subs with the speakers. For some reason the JBL 310s was barely kicking, a lot of times even sounded off if u weren't next to it. I was sure it was a setting/cable issue but the guy tried everything and it didn't improve. Now, the Person T10 on the other hand, boy do those babies kick out a nice clean punch. I had never heard of that brand before but I really enjoyed them.

No money to buy a good sub setup yet so I'm holding off. With that said I was pleasantly surprised with the nice clean kick the 305s offered in my room. It went from feeling non existent at Guitar Center to small but nice tight kicks in my room.

My problem; I have these hooked up with a 3.5mm TRS to 1/4 TS 10ft cable. The source is my Sound Blaster Zx. I'm getting a normal quiet hum when speakers are not plugged into the Sound Blaster which is fine, mostly only noticeable if I put my ears near the speaker. Now when I plug them into the Sound Blaster I get a very loud hum/static sound and when I move my mouse it whines. When playing a game this gets even worse.

My temporary fix; Put the volume knob on the back of the speakers to 4 instead of maxed at 10. This makes it to where the noises are nearly inaudible. But by doing this it also makes it to where volume isn't nearly loud enough for music (Windows Volume 100%) and just loud enough for other things.

My research; Many other people have experienced the same issue. Trying other cables, moving speakers/computer to other wall outlets hasn't worked for most people. What seems to have worked for most is either buying a FIIO D3 digital to analog convertor https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797050&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+d3 or using a Ground Loop Isolator https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797119&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&psc=1.

Any other suggestions that doesn't require purchasing extra stuff from amazon or at least finding these items locally in South Florida would be welcomed.

My question; I've heard that "Balanced" cables may help solve this issue. Forgive my ignorance but It is my understanding that the cable I bought is Balanced on the 3.5mm connector but unbalanced on the 1/4" side. Does a cable exist that is Balanced 3.5mm to dual Balanced 1/4" connectors? I haven't been able to find any, guessing it has to do with the cable splitting. What about going with 3.5mm to XLR, would that help?

My listening experience so far; I've only tried out YouTube music which since I'm a pretty casual audio listener is normally my main source of music. They sound much different than what I'm used to. I spent hours playing around with my Sound Blaster EQ and even went as far as going -2 on the LFT and +2 on the HFT on the back of the speakers.

I kept trying to get women vocals to be high enough to reproduce the hairs on my arms standing up feeling I have gotten so many times in the past when they hit that high note. Particularly when this girl hits the "rolling in the DEE-EEEE-P" part of her song https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7UFm6ErMPU. No matter what I did I was not able to reproduce it. It feels like I cant get where I need to be without upping the higher frequencies and lowering the others. This does seem to get me closer to where I want to be but before I can hit the sweet spot the song starts to sound off.

With that said, I can definitely tell that these speakers are producing a much more quality sound than what I'm used to in the past. Although I'm unsure as of yet if that is translating into a more fun listening experience. Also for the first time ever my hearing is feeling very fatigued and somewhat muffled. I'm guessing its from all the tuning and listening I have been doing but at the same time it is very odd because I have not put the volume higher than what I've been accustomed to in the past.

Watching Twitch.tv;

Not sure if at this point it was due to my hearing fatigue but It felt different listening to these people talk. Like I had to pay closer attention to what they were saying or it would sound mubled/muffled. One guy I had never heard before sounded like he had too much bass to his voice to where it became muffled. Normally I'd chalk that up to a bad Microphone but b/c thousands of other viewers weren't mentioning it. I'm guessing it was on my side

Round up with very limited listening time;

Bass: Was expecting next to none. Pleasantly surprised.

High pitched vocal: Not hitting where I normally get goosebumps.

Overall listening: Sounds very quality but not yet sure I'm enjoying it as much.

Problem: Caused hearing to fatigue and sound muffled with very limited listening time and not very high volume.

Thanks for reading.

If you get an optical one, definitely. With USB, the issues might carry over.
https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/

Or, if you have particularly high impedance headphones (but that's likely not the case if you're driving them straight from the PC), get one with an amp: https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-SD793-II-PCM1793-DIR9001-Amplifier/dp/B00A2QLPJM/

Make sure to have an optical out though.

https://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

you will also need to buy a cord that converts a 3.5mm to a r/w since the 3.5mm is analog.

Probably a problem with the HDMI cable or if you're routing the audio from your monitor (using it's headphone/speaker out) then it's probably the monitor itself. Get one of these and an RCA cable to connect them into your speakers. That's my recommendation.

For that price you can even throw in an entry level DAC to help with audio quality.

https://www.amazon.com/SMSL-50Wx2-TDA7492-Amplifier-Adapter/dp/B00F0H8TOC

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO

The HD598's are already pretty easy to drive; it's fair to assume that the difference between a D3 and an E10 will be quite a lot lesser than the difference between driving them with a D3 and driving them direct from your PC's headphone jack.


Edit: Hold on, /u/SuperShaker, bit of a cock up. there might actually be a difference. Is this what you have? Here's the trouble with asking headphone questions on this sub, someone like me who's not too familiar with headphone gear attempts to answer the questions that look easy! I assumed that the D3 was a d/a + amp, it looks like it's just a d/a converter, and outputs line-level. ಠ_ಠ I'm astonished that this is getting loud enough for you, have you compared it to your motherboard's headphone out?

Hi, I'm still relatively new to audiophile equipment, and I wanted to buy a DAC for my headphones.

I wanted to buy one of these $20 DACs just so to see what the sound is like. I guess my budget would be ~$60, but my friend told me that at this price point, they're all basically the same.

I looked around and it was basically down to this FiiO D3 and this Signstek

Recommendations?

FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter With Micca 6ft Optical Toslink Cable - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_jhZsxbX6ERAMS

Does this look like a good option?

I used this.

yeah, I realized the dac doesn't support many sample rates. I ended up getting this http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1463424091&sr=8-6&keywords=fiio+dac to replace the old dolby dac, it's not really that good anyways. The new one is meant to line out to self powering speakers, but I already have an amp from them so it should be good. 1 day delivery means I should get it tomorrow.

You could probably buy something like this and just plug in some cheap speakers.

> 42LH30

Yeah, that TV has digital optical out. You will either need a DAC (digital-to-analog converter), or a new receiver in order to utilize external speakers.

You could also switch out the TV to have standard RCA outputs, but I think your TV trumps your stereo, but I could be wrong in terms of quality.

Something like this: http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1394995528&sr=8-2&keywords=dac

Regarding you Logitech system, I believe you need to convert the coaxial or TosLink audio output to analog stereo via S/PDIF connection on the back of the Xbox One.

I don't know if it will work, some research may be needed. You will definitely need something like this, I do not endorse this product never used the product.

http://www.amazon.com/D3-Digital-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_3?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1410314457&sr=1-3&keywords=digital+to+analog+audio+converter

Something like this ? - http://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1465101821&sr=1-1&keywords=dac

What would be the purpose of that ? Is it like an amplifier for the headphone ? My tv has both RCA red/white and digital audio out.

FiiO D3 (D03K) Digital to Analog Audio Converter With Micca 6ft Optical Toslink Cable - 192kHz/24bit Optical and Coaxial DAC https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_0SM2AbS2J5GGX

This is the one I use. I like it alot. However, I use this in conjunction with an O2 amp. So j purposely looked for a DAC without a volume knob, if you want that might want to get something else

https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=pd_lpo_23_tr_t_3/151-0622323-1846041?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9W4JNQTB1AV9NJTA5D43

you shall be satisfied with this

Hi all,


Not sure if this sub would be the right place to ask my noob consumer grade question.

I have two sources of audio in my living room:

1. Samsung TV (that has an optical output). So I use this Optical DAC to convert to a headphone jack output.
   
   
2. Logitech bluetooth audio adapter
   
   And I have a 2.1 speaker setup which consists of two M-Audio monitors and a subwoofer.
   
   Currently the issue is that I have to manually switch the connections of my speakers to the logitech adapter's output and later back to the DAC's out.
   
   Is there a device that I could use to switch the connections automatically with a switch (a remote would be even better, but I can live without it too).
   In addition to the switching of audio streams, I would like to have a knob to amplify the sound as per my taste. The reason I need to a volume control is because the Optical DAC doesn't have any kind of volume adjustment.
   
   Being a noob in audio stuff, my guess is that I must look at audio mixers. But when I see "audio mixers" on amazon, I see all these professional products which look like something for a DJ at stage. My requirement is a nice looking living room product which can handle 2 to 4 audio streams as long as I can mute all but one because I would want to listen to only one stream at a time.
   
   I am looking for a high quality device with respected reviews. My budget is under $200.
   
   Thanks for any pointers.