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Reddit mentions of Fotodiox 48x72 5-in-1 Oval Reflector Pro, Premium Grade Collapsible Disc, Soft Silver/Gold/Black/White/Diffuser

Sentiment score: 2
Reddit mentions: 2

We found 2 Reddit mentions of Fotodiox 48x72 5-in-1 Oval Reflector Pro, Premium Grade Collapsible Disc, Soft Silver/Gold/Black/White/Diffuser. Here are the top ones.

Fotodiox 48x72 5-in-1 Oval Reflector Pro, Premium Grade Collapsible Disc, Soft Silver/Gold/Black/White/Diffuser
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Pro-Grade Material, Heavy Duty ConstructionCollapsible for Portability.5 Applications in one for all photo accations.24 Month Manufacture Warranty
Specs:
ColorSilver / Gold / Black / White
Height24 Inches
Length24 Inches
Number of items1
Release dateSeptember 2012
Size48x72in (120x180cm)
Width4 Inches

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Found 2 comments on Fotodiox 48x72 5-in-1 Oval Reflector Pro, Premium Grade Collapsible Disc, Soft Silver/Gold/Black/White/Diffuser:

u/OftenGassy ยท 24 pointsr/videography

When it comes to softness, the two things that matter are the size of the source and its distance from the subject. Increase the size of the light and decrease the distance it takes to get to you, and you'll have a softer result.

Someone might tell you to clip diffusion gel on the barndoors of your light, but this will not increase your source size significantly enough. It helps if the source is bigger than your face. Like a 4x4 foot source size within three feet of your head, for example.

The idea is to shoot your light through diffusion material that will scatter it more broadly (enlargening its size relative to you) OR to shoot your light off of something (like a white wall) and have it bounce back onto your face (OR do both, that's called a booklight). Making the size of the white wall area you are hitting your light into as big as possible and as close as possible to you will help to ensure you are creating as soft of a source as possible. The problem with the bounce method is it becomes hard to control the light, or to cut it off of the rest of the room -- you will lose contrast.

For Vlogging ideally you might want a light that you can attach a large softbox to (Example). The softbox will enlarge the source size but also control unwanted spill from the light. If you add an eggcrate to the softbox, it will prevent the source from spilling and spreading beyond its influence on your face (Example, and the effect of different eggcrate degrees in terms of shadow sharpness but also background spill.)

In lieu of that, you could try obtaining a collapsible photoreflector with a spring clamp and a kit stand. Remove the white side/silver side fabric zippered around it to reveal a diffusion panel. If you shoot your light through that you will have an enlarged source. Back the light up from the diffusion until the entire beam of your light fills the entire reflector evenly, and be sure you have that diffusion as close to your face as possible (almost touching your lens), as close as you can before it starts showing up in the shot. From where you are standing in front of the camera your diffusion should be filled evenly with light for optimal softness, no hotspots! The closer you get your face to the final source (in this case the diffusion frame), the higher the likelihood that you're giving the light an opportunity to"wrap" across your face, with feathered, gradually dissipating shadows.

In lieu of a photoreflector, you can shoot through a large bedsheet or similar dense white fabric. You'll notice without a soft box this lighting technique will cause residual light to spill around the room, and your shot loses contrast (As with the bouncing method.) You then should add black "siders" to either side of the gap between the light and the diffusion. On sets we use solid black fabric flags or floppies or frames (sizes ranging from 2'x3', 4'x4', 6x6, 8x8, 12x12, 20x20, etc, but at home you can use black art card or black fabric (duvetyne, or commando cloth) on stands.

But this can go on and on. However you do it, remember the two key components. Source size and distance to the subject.

The other issue is modeling a face with light in a flattering way. That's more important than softness. Right now it looks like you have two lights at 45 degrees from your front (traditional key side and fill side), left and right. This flattens out the lighting on your face since they are both at similar exposure levels. I can tell this by seeing the two left and right catch lights reflected in your pupils.

Gain more modeling and contrast by varying the output of the key and fill. In fact, I'd start with a single source, your key, and see at that point if you need fill. Position the key on one side of the camera, a little above eye level (for example, but this isnt a rule) and start with just the light (keep the diffusion out for now). Keep moving the light toward the center axis until you get the desired amount of light hitting the opposite side of the face (this is called the cheek patch) Make sure the opposite side of the face gets light in your eye and highlights a patch of the cheek, accentuating the contours of your cheekbones by allowing the light to fall off into darkness thereafter.

At this point, walk in the diffusion (whether it's the bare photoreflector or a bed sheet [a frosted shower curtain works as well! -- the denser the fabric, the more the light scatters, the softer it is]) in between the lamp and your face, and bring it as close to your face as possible.

Observe the results. If you need more light to wrap around the dark side of your face, inch the lamp and the diffusion closer to the center axis.

If you just need a whisper of light on the darker side of the face, using a large bounce board (you can use bead board insulation from home depot, or art card) on the other side to "return" your key light might do the trick instead of an additional light.

Use that second lamp instead for a key-side edge, or a fill side edge (three-quarter kicker), to carve you out of the background. I'll leave out what that crap means. Point is, do some tests!

u/themicahmachine ยท 1 pointr/photography

When you bounce off a wall, you're simulating a much larger light source (the whole wall). Outdoors where there is nothing to bounce off of, try putting something large and translucent (a scrim) between your flash and your subject. Look at http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-110CM-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1371494710&sr=8-3 and http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox--1-4872-Premium-Reflector-Collapsible/dp/B003Y2EOBW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1371494710&sr=8-5 and http://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-10BG-57-DIF-KIT-Collapsible-Diffuser-Lighting/dp/B003Y2KSF8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1371494710&sr=8-6

Or just make your own with some PVC pipe and white ripstop nylon. I'm sure you can find plans online for gratis.

The strobe illuminates the entire surface of the scrim, which then acts like a big sexy window light. This is what you want. If it's really sunny out, you can use one scrim to create portable open shade, and another to bounce the sun under it for fill light, and then you don't need a strobe at all. Just two or more minions to hold reflectors for you.