Reddit mentions of GE Enbrighten Add-On Switch for GE Z-Wave/GE Zigbee Smart Lighting Controls, Works with Alexa, Google Assistant, NOT A STANDALONE SWITCH, White & Light Almond, 12723

You'll need one dimmer switch, and a second "slave" switch. GE has a good pair [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-45613-Wireless-Lighting-Three-Way/dp/B0013V58K2/ref=sr_1_6?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487104987&sr=1-6&keywords=GE+zwave+switch).

Or [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Smart-Dimmer-Z-Wave-14294/dp/B01MUCZA1C/ref=sr_1_5?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1487104987&sr=1-5&keywords=GE+zwave+switch) and [here] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1487105148&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+zwave+switch+add+on) separately.

GE Z-Wave switches. Use their add-on switch combined with one of their regular z-wave switches. (or zigbee or bluetooth it would seem, I am just a fan of bluetooth so that's what I used)

I just did one of my lights that was controlled by two switches with this. The main switch goes where there's power to the switch (and you'll need to make sure you have a neutral wire there) and then your existing traveler wires should be able to be used to connect the other switches.

I also saw these Zooz switches which looked interesting and claim to work with existing three way switches but I have no experience with them. I went with the GE switches because I've used them for regular switches in the past and have been very happy with them.

I like the GE switches. Currently running 5 though out the house. You can use the GE switch and purchase a add on switch. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1493836027&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ge+add+on+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41glGOvc3NL&ref=plSrch

Hey /u/Mercury357 !

Sorry I can't offer much advice when it comes to Inovelli or Zooz, but I'm sure you'll get a great response from some of the other members here.

I can however, relay that the GE Switches are on sale right now on Amazon for $30.99 and the GE Dimmers are on sale for $32.99

Our Add-On switches work great for 3 and 4-way setups as well, those run $19.50 right now

If you have any questions about GE product, feel free to ask. :)

GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.

I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.

One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.

I have one 4-way setup in my house; I used the GE zwave light switch and 2 add-on switches. One main switch and then two add-on switches will run you less than $100.

GE makes "add-on" switches for their Z-Wave, Zigbee, and Bluetooth switches. The normal smart switch is installed on one end (usually where the power comes in from your panel) and an add-on switch gets connected on the other side. These switches do require neutral (usually white) wires - as long as you have those, no additional wiring should be needed.

I do not know if there are any wifi switches that work this way. However, I've been using GE's Z-Wave switches with the Aeotec Z-Stick Gen5 and Home Assistant and it's been working great! If you're not already locked into a certain technology and don't mind using Z-Wave that would be my recommendation.

BTW it's not difficult to wire them yourself once you know what you're doing. I hired an electrician to wire the first few for me - I watched them, asked questions, and learned how to do the others myself.

I use either GE or Linear/GoControl brand. Both seem to work the same. Only reason I use a combination is because I'm picky and the white color of the Linear ones don't quite match the standard wall plates and switches. So I use the cheaper Linear switches for single gang boxes and the GE for multi:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2

https://www.amazon.com/Linear-WD500Z-1-Z-Wave-500-Watt-Wall-Mount/dp/B00E1OVFAK

If you have 3-way switches though, be aware that the Linear option can end up costing a bit more. With the GE switches you have one master switch like the one I linked above, and then their add-on switch for the others in the circuit. Linear has an add-on switch also, but it's like twice the price of the GE one. So I always use GE for 3 or 4-way switches:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ

You will need the primary switch and the second switch has to be an "add on" switch like this one:

GE 12723 Add-On Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_MDgvxbGSX5G0Z

A non-zwave switch won't work.

sounds like you have a three way light in your kitchen (two switches control the same light). You'll need one smart switch and one add-on switch
GE add-on switch

They are currently $16

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=pd_sim_421_8?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=1BYZ0MK34QEHRJMPAEQP

The Trane works without the subscription, but the GoControl for the garage door does not.

Yeah, sorry, I didn't know how to phrase that properly. I meant I replaced the switches in a 4 way circuit.

It's not the standard 1 4-way and 2 3-way switches, though.

One of these - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2

And two add on switches - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ

So I twisted together the hot line and a traveler to send power to box 2 where I installed the primary switch.

Right now I also have the load line in box three twisted with a traveler to send that to box 2 as well.

So the circuit should be only operable by one switch now, or so I'd think.

Edit: this circuit previously had a 4 way switch in box 2 and 3 way switches in boxes 1 and 3

> I will get the switches wired correctly and only install one z wave switch. As everyone has pointed out 2 would be overkill.

You need two switches still. Just one of them needs to be an add-on switcht. Or buy it as a kit.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Three-Way/dp/B0035YUOWC

It's probably cheaper to just buy them individually though:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Smart-Dimmer-12724/dp/B0035YRCR2?th=1

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Smart-Dimmer-12724/dp/B00RKJS8MQ?th=1

SmartThings Version 3 Hub (I have the Version 2 Hub...you will have to look around for this one):
https://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Generation-GP-U999SJVLGDA-Automation/dp/B07FJGGWJL/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989501&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=smartthings+hub+2nd+generation&psc=1

GE Z-Wave Plus On/Off Light Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+switch

GE Z-Wave Plus Dimmer Switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Required-Works-SmartThings-14291/dp/B07361Y54Z/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989582&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave%2Bswitch&th=1

GE Add On Switch (if you have a 3-way or 4-way switch):
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1540989718&sr=8-3&keywords=z-wave+add+on+switch

ZigBee Motion Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F8ZHBLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee Door Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F956F3B/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Leak Sensors:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F951JDP/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

ZigBee Outlet Plug (you will need to replicate your ZigBee mesh, I use to motion activate lamps, turn lamps on/off at sunset/sunrise, etc.):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07F96JB63/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

Z-Wave Thermostat:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005EJ7YO2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Landscape RGB LED Strips:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00R1PB2ZY/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

ZigBee RGB Lightbulbs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073ZBYXKQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Z-Wave Deadbolt:
https://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-SmartCode-Electronic-SmartThings-featuring/dp/B004F1B24I/ref=sr_1_12?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990126&sr=1-12&keywords=z-wave+lock

Z-Wave Garage Door Opener:
https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Linear-GD00Z-4-Z-Wave-Controller/dp/B00M75TEIU/ref=sr_1_4?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990160&sr=1-4&keywords=z-wave+garage+door+opener

Sonos One Speakers (Great music, and talking through SmartThings):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074XN1LH3/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Amazon Echo Show (for Voice Control...an Echo Dot will work just fine too):
https://www.amazon.com/All-new-Echo-Show-2nd-Gen/dp/B077SXWSRP/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1540990254&sr=1-1&keywords=echo+show

That's about all I can think of at the moment.

If you are going to do this, do it in stages. Z-Wave and ZigBee are mesh networks...meaning that the reliability of the network gets much better the more devices you have. Also, with these mesh networks:

• Battery operated devices DO NOT reinforce the mesh
  
• The only devices that reinforce the mesh are devices that are always powered from the mains
  
  I see so many people complaining about how the Z-Wave or ZigBee devices don't work, when they are relying on too many battery operated devices.
  
  For Z-Wave devices, choose Z-Wave Plus over Z-Wave...it's the newest standard, and has much better range.
  
  In the US, Z-Wave operates in the 900 MHz spectrum and ZigBee in the 2.4 GHz spectrum. Personally, I "prefer" Z-Wave devices as there is a lot of "junk" in the 2.4 GHz spectrum right now. However, the ZigBee devices are operating reliably as I have a strong mesh setup (with non-battery operated devices).
  
  Two great application for the Leak Sensors:
  
  
• Near your hot water heater (when they go, they always leak)
  
• Under your A/C drip pan (if you have central air)
  
  Great applications for door open/close sensors:
  
  
• Turn closet lights on/off when the door opens or closes
  
• Turn on entry and hallway lights when an entry door opens, but only when it's dark (30 minutes before sunset or after sunrise)...turn off 1 minute later
  
• Notify me when my gun safe is opened
  
  Great Application for Motion Sensors
  
  
• Turn on outside ceiling fans (but only if the temp is above 72 degrees)
  
• Turn on lamps while motion is active when it's dark
  
  The motion sensors I linked above are the new ones...the magnetically mount. What's cool is that the magnet is in the sensor, and it's strong enough to attach the sensor to a dry wall screw (no need to mount the adapter bracket).

Thanks! That switch looks great. And I see that the website advertises Nexia compatibility so that's good.

In the picture I posted, the stair lights have 2 switches that control them. Would I get one of these smart switches and one of the add-on paddles?

You need a switched module (not lamp) and it will handle the fluorescents just fine. GE smart switch with a remote should do the job.

You don't have to rewire anything. One of your light switches is the real switch, and the other is connected to that first switch (not to the main power) Install the GE module at the real switch location, and install the remote at the other, it uses the same wiring.

If you're not sure you can tell the difference, or are concerned about doing a true 3 way, then you can use 1 GE smart module, and velcro an Aeotech Zwave remote near the other location to control it remotely.

Switch

Remote

Aeotech Remote

What you want to accomplish is certainly possible, however, you have a 3-way switch, so you will have to replace both switches. GE makes a 3-way compatible z-wave dimmer switch that I've used in my house that I've been pretty happy with. You will need to install the z-wave dimmer on your load switch (where the hot line comes in) and an "add-on" switch on the other 3-way switch. The photo you posted appears to be of your non-load switch since there isn't a black line connected to the switch, but to be sure you should test the load portion of the switch with a multimeter.

Here's links to the GE switches I use:
GE Z-Wave Dimmer
Add-On Switch

Edit: Upon looking at the photo you posted again, I do see a black line, but I can't see how it's connected to the switch. It's possible this is your primary load switch, but again I'm would test with a multimeter to be sure.

You could do this using zwave devices. It will cost some money up front but you'll have a solid base to build out more complex home automation tasks if you want to.

You can turn any computer into a local "hub" with a Zwave USB dongle. This one is pricey but works really well. Plug that into a spare laptop lying around the house or buy a Raspberry PI.

Install the Home Assistant package on the computer or PI that you plugged the dongle into. This makes it easy to send and receive signals from Zwave devices without having to learn a bunch of low level APIs. You can write automation commands using YAML markup or write complex, custom tasks using Python. Home Assistant is just a bundle of open source free software, so I don't think of it as a "service", but you could roll your own software if you like that replaces it. It all runs locally, not in the cloud, so you own and control it.

Now you can buy any Zwave switch you want. GE has a bunch of reasonable priced switches.

You can get an "add on" switch that does not hook into your home power but controls smart light bulbs like Hue using over the air signals.

Or you can buy a real switch that does control existing lights through the power in your home -- this will let you send signals to your switch using your Home Assistant "hub" to turn lights on or off and dim them without having to replace existing bulbs.

Have fun.

The key point is that if you use a GE smart switch in a 3-way setup, you must use a GE Z-Wave companion switch for the other end.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1480478370&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=ge+zwave+add+on+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41uBlu46cUL&ref=plSrch

So just confirming, smartthings would find this as it's own switch that I can setup without needing a traveler?

Also, am I correct in assuming that this add-on switch would not work?

Something like this? https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479500062&sr=8-1&keywords=wave+compatible+add+on+switch

GE makes good z wave plus smart switches capable of 3 way switching. You would buy one of these

GE Z-Wave Plus Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 14291 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_K4LZzbMEWM70Q

And one of more of these

GE Add-On Switch for GE Z-Wave, GE ZigBee and GE Bluetooth Wireless Smart Lighting Controls, NOT A STANDALONE SWITCH, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, 12723 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_y5LZzb3VB99ZF

Thanks again for the help. I was hoping to setup exactly as it was, but I was thrown by the new switch ( https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ) which only has connections for a neutral and traveler wire (https://byjasco.com/sites/default/files/product/manuals/12723%20EnFrSp%20QStart%20V2%20102714.pdf)

Since those bulbs are dimmable, I would use this https://www.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2 and this https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1483000019&sr=8-2&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=ge+z-wave+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=417LiEZcirL&ref=plSrch

ahh, i see you what you mean. something like this add-on switch: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_WNzqyb1WFHGY0?th=1

This might work: https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537995311&sr=8-3&keywords=ge+add-on


That's the add-on switch that works with the GE z-wave paddle switches. I don't have personal experience with these, but they are used for 2-way+ switch configurations. The packaging and information seems to read that the remote "add-on" switch mirrors itself to the "paired" switch. I would assume this is a pairing over z-wave, but not entirely sure. These are powered by the mains in the box. Might be worth checking out.

Yes, makes sense to do them all at once if you want to educate all of them. Note that putting multiple smart switches in a single junction box can be a PIA. The old boxes barely have enough space for the big smart switches. But it can be done, I have a 7-gang panel that is all smart switches.

As /u/simiwood notes below, 3-way switches take some additional consideration. Traditionally you had to get add-on switches that communicate with the main smart switch to allow 3-way. This adds cost as you have to get a second smart switch. Some new manufacturers have designed their switches to function with the current 'dumb' switch and maintain 3-way functionality. TheZooz switches have this feature. It's cheaper, and I thought it an elegant solution, but now that's I've tried it I have a slight issue with it. All smart switches function like a typical 2-way light switch, that is up = on, down = off. Traditional 3-way and 4-way switches flip-flop depending on which switch is used. So when you use something like the Zooz solution you now have one switch on the circuit that is always up= on, down=off and you have one that flip flops. It's a small annoyance, but it annoys me. YMMV.

Not familiar with 'bipolar' as applied to light switches (transistors and moods, yes). If you're talking about three way switches, then you have to wire the WeMo as a single pole switch: hot, common, neutral. You will call the traveler wire but not connect it to the new switch.

Alternatively, you can go Z-Wave and get a master switch and then an add-on switch and maintain your current functionality. Downside (if you want to call it that) is that you need a Z-wave hub and can't connect directly through wifi.

This is going to format like shit because I'm copying it straight from an email I wrote my sister.
The important bits: the hub is Samsung Smartthings, switches are mostly GE zwave switches, voice control provided by Amazon Echo.
Rolling it out across the whole house isn't easy or cheap, but it's worth it when you have someone over and you give the "turn on everything" command and you watch every light pop on, then do it in reverse.
This will get you started :)
>
> Switches: http://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2
>
> Add-on Switches (for 3+ way): http://www.amazon.com/GE-12723-Add-On-Switch/dp/B00RKJS8MQ
>
> Dimmer:  http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Dimmer-In-Wall-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2
>
> Fan: http://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
>
> SmartThings: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE
>
> Door Locks: http://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-Camelot-Touchscreen-Deadbolt/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=lp_511306_1_2?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284077&sr=1-2
>
> Thermostat:  http://www.amazon.com/Nest-Learning-Thermostat-Generation-Works/dp/B0131RG6VK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284145&sr=1-2&keywords=thermostat+smart
>
> Echo (for voice control): http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-SK705DI-Echo/dp/B00X4WHP5E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284177&sr=1-1&keywords=echo
>

There are other things like motion sensors and garage door controllers that start opening up some really cool "routines."

for master

for 2 slaves

these can do 4 way

White is the neutral. Three wires would be black (hot), white(neutral) and the bare copper (ground).
When you would see more wires is for a 3-way light switch or a ceiling fan with a light where you may see a red wire.


Last week I installed a 3-way switch using the GE switches(Dimmer and Add-on). It was quite a hassle for a non-electrician because there are so many possible wiring configurations. I had to bust out my multi-meter and do some trial and error for over an hour to determine the hot, neutral, line, load and two travelers.
In my case the hot and neutral were in two different switch boxes but luckily I had another switch in that same box that had a neutral (they all go back to the same place, neutral bus bar)

GE actually makes add-on switches for their Z-Wave smart switches, making them 3-way compatible. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B00RKJS8MQ?th=1

I've even seen them in the big box stores.

They do NOT need to be the same switch, just the opposite: most (all?) manufacturers make an "add on switch" for just such a purpose. The wiring gets kind of funky, not normal 3-way switch wiring.

Here is a walkthrough I found very helpful.

You need to replace both switches - there is no way to just replace one.

Generally you have 1 "smart" switch and 1 "addon" switch.

Example:

Smart switch:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Repeater-Extender-SmartThings-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=wifi+smart+switch+addon&qid=1574278550&sr=8-3

Add on switch
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=ge+smart+switch+add+on&qid=1574278685&sprefix=ge+smart+switch+ad&sr=8-3
You then can wire the traveler from one to the other.
Add on switches are cheaper.