Reddit mentions of GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Light Switch, On/Off Paddle, In-Wall, White & Lt. Almond Paddles, Repeater & Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 12722

I think it's easier to search for minor inconveniences and annoyances around your house, then search for ways to automate it away.

I gotta watch out with this site or I'll end up in the non-automated poorhouse, but it's awesome for product discovery
http://www.smarthomedb.com/products

Since you mentioned OpenHAB, the supported technologies list is a good place to start a wishlist too
http://www.openhab.org/features/supported-technologies.html

I'm using z-wave for most of my devices, so the product database is full of devices that are more likely to be compatible
https://github.com/openhab/openhab/blob/master/bundles/binding/org.openhab.binding.zwave/database/products.xml

This forum thread is also great for seeing what other people have gotten working
https://community.openhab.org/t/collection-of-working-z-wave-configs/1407

Personally, I've had great luck with these devices:

Aeon Labs Aeotec Z-Wave Z-Stick, Gen5 Z-Wave Plus - ZW090 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_cIbCwbYMNV0A4

2gig CT100 Z-Wave Programmable Thermostat (White) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CQ4V3Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_3IbCwbNFR9PQ6

MIMOLite - Z-wave Mulit-Input/Output Dry Contact Bridge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B6RZ7MM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_uKbCwbF1ZBAXK

GE12722 Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_oLbCwbQCFR48K

GoControl WNK01-21KIT Z-Wave Essentials Wink Enabled Security Kit https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XUXYSWU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_p5bCwbRY8TXQ5

I have an old ADT installed Safewatch pro 3000 alarm, and this ties it into OpenHAB really nicely.
http://www.alarmdecoder.com/

I'm comfortable pulling wires through the walls, so I use one of these for TTS playback from my OpenHAB box:
Elk ELK-70 Echo Speaker https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003XP1HZ6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_kZbCwb799TN4C

Driven by one of these:
Lepai LP-2020A+ Tripath TA2020 Class-T Hi-Fi Audio Amplifier with Power Supply https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0049P6OTI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_X0bCwb7MYGM47

A few scenarios might help with inspiration.

I have a sensor on my garage entry door that kicks on the laundry room light when the door is opened so I never enter a dark house with my hands full.

If it's 00:00 - 06:00 and any perimeter sensors on the alarm are tripped, all outside and main level lights come on at full brightness

I have a sensor on my garage door to send me an alert if it has been open for more than 15 minutes, and a camera and a mimolite to close it remotely

My wife works nights so I have a mimolite to disable the upstairs doorbell while she's sleeping during the day. It sends our phones alerts if the doorbell is rung while silenced

There is no 2 device single gang zwave switch on the market at the moment. Most people here either:

• expand the box to be a double gang box and then install a z-wave switch for the lights example, and a z-wave switch for the fan. example It's dimmable (3 speeds)
  
  
• Put a single zwave switch in the wall for the lights, and then put a remote dimmer unit for the fan that hides in the electrical box above the ceiling fan. This limits control to an app, voice with google home/alexa, or getting some sort of zwave multi button scene control to stick on the wall.
  
  
• A modification of the previous. Put remote dimmer/switch for BOTH the light and the fan in the electrical box above the fan (may not fit) and then put a zwave scene controller in the original single gang box switch location.
  
  I was fortunate to have double gang boxes in my house, so I was able to use the seperate GE light and fan switches. Both work well.

GE switches are what I recommend.
They have switches, On/Off.
They have dimmers, On/Off and dim brighten (hold up to brighten or hold down to dim not too hard)
They have fan controller. Four speeds, low, medium, high and off. (sorry, no reverse)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035YRCR2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486773955&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ge+zwave+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41bCFFIGx8L&ref=plSrch

You might want to reconsider the double triple tap option. It nice to be able to control something unrelated using a "secret switch". Triple tap to restart a computer by chance. Triple tap to turn off all the light in your place.

I only have one of the homeseer switches and don't regret the purchase. My switch control the lights in our loft (on/off/dim/brighten), double tap controls lights that are connected to a plugin module. Triple tap is used to play a test sound that I use to test the volume of house alerts.

It's great that you are thinking of other folks who will be using the system. Not everyone wants to pull out a phone to turn on a light.

Edit.
I prefer dimmers to on/off switches. The light ramps up gracefully. Now, I find the on/off to be very jarring.

Motion sensors, I've found the monoprice units to be just fine. They've been reliable and include a temperature sensor. I've had a few of these for years and have yet to replace a battery. The best price I've found on theses.
https://www.monoprice.com/mobile/product/details/15271?maincategoryid=122&categoryid=12212&subcategoryid=1091804&cpncd=

GE: [zwave] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2) or [zwave+] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R) and a [slave switch] (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-STANDALONE-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ).

Edit: where were you planning on putting the motion sensor? GE/Jasco has combined motion sensing switches that work quite well out. 26931 and 26933 are the product numbers.

I have z-wave GE wall switches that work fine. You can usually find something in the amazon reviews that will indicate what success (or lack of it) other people have had. Lurking this sub is another good way to see what works for others.

As sauky said, check the smartthings list on the st website

The GE switches and dimmers were fussy getting them "paired" with the hub. But I have probably five different brands of stuff and none of it was immune to pairing troubles. I would just make sure whatever you get has favorable reviews.

If you google "zwave switch" (not dimmer) you'll find tons. Not to sound mean, but did you try searching?

• This link has tons of different brands: https://www.zwaveproducts.com/shop/z-wave-lighting/z-wave-wall-switches
  
  
• https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2
  
  
• https://store.leviton.com/collections/z-wave/products/decora-smart-switch-with-z-wave-technology-dz15s-1bz?variant=33948827971
  
  
• Not in the first page of results, but I know of this one as well: https://shop.homeseer.com/products/homeseer-hs-ws100-z-wave-plus-scene-capable-wall-switch?variant=20302954182
  
  There are also plenty of zigbee or wifi switches (not dimmers) out there as well.
  
  Also, if you want a fan controller that can handle both the light and the fan, you can put something in the box above the fan, though it looks like this one is discontinued. You may be able to find something similar:
  http://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Wink-Enabled-White-Universal-Ceiling-Fan-Premier-Remote-Control-99432/206591100?keyword=206591100
  
  
  

My preference is smart switches. $34 on amazon. Bulbs go bad, lamps change. A switch will last longer and is universal. You could also go with a outlet for similar price. Plus with a bulb the device needs power all the time, so if the switch gets turned off your routine wont work properly.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2

There are no SmartThings branded switches. SmartThings is a central hub that is capable of controlling a vast array of third-party smart home devices. When you link it with Google Home, voice commands to the Home will be sent to the SmartThings hub, which will then trigger the smart home device based on how you set it up in the SmartThings app.

For example, you have a smart light switch installed in your kitchen that is labeled "Kitchen Lights" in the SmartThings app. When you say "Hey Google, turn off Kitchen Lights" the SmartThings hub will trigger the smart light switch to the "off" position. No need for smart bulbs, just swap out your current "dumb" light switch for a smart one and you'll be able to control your light fixture.

I personally have several GE 12722 Z-Wave Switches installed in my apartment, which are controlled by SmartThings and Google Home. The light fixtures have regular, run-of-the-mill LED bulbs in them. I issue voice commands like "Turn on/off Kitchen Lights" or "Turn on/off Bedroom Lights" and the switches activate near-instantly. Delay can be measured in milliseconds. Much better than the laggy IFTTT.

Check out the Works with SmartThings page to see the vast multitude of smart home devices that can be controlled by the hub.

GE's toggle-style switches (12727, switch; 12728, add-on switch; 12729, dimmer) will fit into an existing toggle setup, but they don't stay up and down like a regular toggle switch does. They're always pointing straight out in the middle and you press them up or down to turn the light on and off (or hold the dimmer up or down to brighten and dim, respectively). They return to their center position as soon as you let go.

I like the decora series a little better (12722, switch; 12723, add-on switch; 12724, dimmer). They have a little LED on them that indicates the current status of the light. The toggle-style switches don't have any indication of whether they're on or off, which is kind of a bummer for outside lights.

One thing to be aware of for the add-on switches: they require a traveler wire, but can only be paired with GE primary switches. The traveler doesn't carry full line voltage; it's just used for the add-on switch to signal the primary when the add-on's been pressed.

Might I ask what is keeping you from using an entire switch replacement? Not sure what country your in, but there are plenty available on Amazon.

Installation isn't hard per say, but if you don't feel comfortable its certainly not worth electrocuting yourself or having a fire hazard. It mostly involves cutting power off at the breaker, confirming power is off at the switch, removing the 3 wires from the existing switch and moving them over to their appropriate location. Now, many z-wave switches require a neutral wire, depending on the age of your residence this may or may not be an issue. If you do have a neutral wire it won't be connected to the existing switch, you will likely have to unbundle it from the back of the receptacle box.

This is a on/off zwave switch, it sounds like you are using phillips hue bulbs in the receptacles. In this case you don't want a dimmer, the dimming is done internally on the bulbs circuitry
http://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1454264957&sr=8-2&keywords=z+wave+switch



This is a dimmer zwave switch, this would be good for incandescent bulbs, some dimmable cfl and LED bulbs will work but you will likely need to look at compatibility. Some dimmable cfl/led don't play well with certain switches, you might get inconsistent dimming performance, buzzing or flickering as most common side effects of a poorly matched bulb.
http://www.amazon.com/2gig-WD500Z-1-Z-Wave-Dimmer-White/dp/B00E1OVFAK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1454264957&sr=8-4&keywords=z+wave+switch


Edit: Adding a few Amazon links for example w/ explaination

I have one 4-way setup in my house; I used the GE zwave light switch and 2 add-on switches. One main switch and then two add-on switches will run you less than $100.

z-wave.

You could do it one of a couple of ways. Both ways would have you installing a z-wave light switch to replace your existing one, soemething like

http://www.amazon.com/Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Switch/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414373746&sr=1-1&keywords=z-wave+light+switch
Then you could either get a lamp modules for the lights, like this

http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0013V6S0Q

but that would add a lot of bulk to your setup, so instead i would probably look at replacing your power outlet iwth a zwave outlet like

http://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-Receptacle/dp/B0013V1SRY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1414373786&sr=1-1&keywords=z-wave+outlet

So once you pair the switch and the outlet, when you pressed the switch it would not only power on your existing lights, but also turn on/off the top receptacle of the outlet as well

I'm still not sure why you would just replace the existing light switches with Z-Wave smart switches. You would be able to use whatever bulbs you wanted. Any time a bulb went bad you wouldn't have to spring for $30-$50 for a single bulb.

And if the owner didn't like the smart lighting, you could leave in the existing switches, or worst case replacement them with dumb switches just as you planned.

Maybe I'm not understanding something. Could you help explain why you went with all of the bulbs over the switches? I'm not seeing any advantage in doing so.

FYI, the paddle-style GE/Jasco binary switches also have an air-gap. So, pulling it out is another way to reset the switch and is probably easier than flipping a breaker.

A couple of simple Zwave switches will fit there no problem. I've been slowing replacing all the
switches in my house with them

How about if you use a smart switch (https://www.amazon.com/GE-12722-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2) ? You can use as many regular bulbs you want, and to configure you would be configuring only 1 device (the switch) instead of each bulb

The device in your picture is called a 3-gang plate.

My solution when I needed to do this in my home was to get a Samsung Smartthings hub. It's compatible with Alexa plus a ton of other stuff so it's a sensible purchase. I highly recommend it.

Once you have Smartthings, you can get any z-wave or zigbee devices and they can be controlled either through the Smartthings app or through Alexa.

GE Z-Wave switches: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/

3-Gang Paddle plate:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000V2UMU/

I have a few of these and they have worked well https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I kept forgetting to turn on/off my porch lights so I installed GE Z-Wave Wireless Lighting Control On/Off Switch, In-Wall, 12722 and enabled two IFTTT recipes If sunrise, then turn off Porch Lights switch and Turn on lights at sunset. It's fantastic.

First off, welcome -- it's a fun ride!

Re: Dimmers/Plugs/Etc
Caseta is nice, I have a couple of switches and they work great. Especially if you want to create 3-way switches without wiring. What I mean is that you can just replace one hard-wired switch with a smart switch and then use the Caseta Pico for the secondary location (which just adheres to the wall).

Just some thought starters as you explore further -- for hardwired switches, in addition to Lutron, I have had a ton of success with the GE/Jasco Z-Wave switches.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1479395673&sr=8-2&keywords=ge+smart+switch

I have the generic on/off switch, dimmer switch and fan switch by them (more on the dimmer function later).

For my plug-in switches, currently I have a couple different ones I use for Christmas lights, and a couple of lamps and a floor fan.

My favorite is this random one I found by Inovelli or Show Home (not sure -- looks like Inovelli is a distributor or something):

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Z-Wave-On-Off-Smart-Home-Plug-Control-2-Outlets-w-1-Module-Works-with-Alexa-/361826630198

I like it because you can control two outlets individually vs just one like all the other ones and it's around the same price too.

I also own a Leviton plug-in which works great too, but only controls one outlet -- still no complaints:

https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-VRPA1-1LW-Capable-Appliance-Module/dp/B00JFF1WP8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1479395904&sr=8-6&keywords=leviton

Ok, now on to your question about blog/forum/guide, etc...
Here's a good place to start:

http://wiki.winkathome.net/Main_Page

I also enjoy reading the Wink Group comments on Facebook -- I can't remember the name of the group, but if you just search for Wink Home Automation, I think it shows up. That group has been awesome for learning new things. It's a fairly large group too.

Lastly, I think I understand what you're asking, but if not, I apologize. How the GE Dimmers work (and I'm assuming the other ones too) is that you can use the switch manually like any dimmer switch -- hold up and it gets brighter, hold down and it gets dimmer, tap the up button and the light turns on to the last setting you left it at, tap the bottom button and the light turns off.

You can also set the percentage (or approximate, I don't recall it having actual numbers -- it's more a sliding scale) you'd like it to go to from within the Wink app (ex: have your light come on to around 75% at 8pm, then dim to 50% at 10pm).

Make sense?

Hope this helps.

The add-on switch doesn't actually have z-wave. It's for adding another switch to an actual z-wave switch for 3 and 4-way configurations that already have multiple switches.

So for the single switches you need a regular z-wave switch:

On/Off: https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/

Dimmer: https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B006LQFHN2

Then for the 1 three-way switch where you have two physical switches, one of the switches will be replaced with one of the z-wave switches above, and the other switch will be replaced with the add-on switch:

https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Dimmer-Z-Wave-12724-Amazon/dp/B00RKJS8MQ

1. As long as it says "zwave enabled" or something of that nature it will connect to smartthings. All of the companies you listed above I have at least one of in my house all connected to my hub. Just look for the zwave logo.
   
   
2. Everything you've listed can be placed with my go-to switch:
   https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1481592836&sr=8-1&keywords=ge+zwave
   they're pretty inexpesive and reliable. There are cheaper, but I've had issues with some of them so I've decided to just go with these when I change out switches.
   
   If you have 3-way switches (though you didn't list any) you need the companion switch and some rewiring of the boxes. If you're handy it's not too bad. If you don't know the difference between the white wire and black wire, I'd spend some time on youtube before get too far into pulling the boxes apart.
   
   
   Another important thing to mention on the wiring front: If you have an older house, you need to make sure that you have a neutral wire in all the boxes that you want to put a smart switch in. Newer houses will have them because the electrical code was updated to require them - that wasn't in place (or followed) until 20-25 years ago.

Assuming you're talking about on/off switches like this one - Yes, you can! I've done it in my house.

I've been told that it's against code to use a dimmer switch to control a wall outlet, but I haven't verified that for myself.

With the three-way outlet, you'll probably run into the same wiring issues as a three-way light (i.e. three-way dumb switches work differently from three-way smart switches) but generally there shouldn't be any problem. Just buy the appropriate accessory switch.

FYI, there are toggle-style zwave switches now. They look kinda funky, but I actually like mine quite a bit.

Yeah, sorry, I didn't know how to phrase that properly. I meant I replaced the switches in a 4 way circuit.

It's not the standard 1 4-way and 2 3-way switches, though.

One of these - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2

And two add on switches - https://www.amazon.com/GE-Bluetooth-Wireless-Lighting-12723/dp/B00RKJS8MQ

So I twisted together the hot line and a traveler to send power to box 2 where I installed the primary switch.

Right now I also have the load line in box three twisted with a traveler to send that to box 2 as well.

So the circuit should be only operable by one switch now, or so I'd think.

Edit: this circuit previously had a 4 way switch in box 2 and 3 way switches in boxes 1 and 3

If you have a neutral wire I recommend these:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Required-SmartThings-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2

I doubt leaving the lights on is skyrocketing your electricity bill though. Another option would be LED bulbs.

Do you have a model switch you recommend? I was looking at these but they seem pretty pricey

I would suggest the GE Zwave switch mentioned above if you have a capable hub (Wink/Vera/Smartthings, etc.), or if you really want to fine tune control, you can use a GE Zwave Fan speed control switch. IMO, both are better options than the Wemo.

Links:

https://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1467068632&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+zwave+switch

https://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1467068575&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+smart+fan+control

I use these, and they work perfectly.

https://shop.smartthings.com/#!/products/ge-in-wall-on-slash-off-switch

plus

https://shop.smartthings.com/#!/products/aeon-labs-minimote

Way cheaper if you buy them from Amazon, of course:

https://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2

https://www.amazon.com/Aeon-Labs-DSA03202-v1-Minimote/dp/B00KU7ERAW

You could do this using zwave devices. It will cost some money up front but you'll have a solid base to build out more complex home automation tasks if you want to.

You can turn any computer into a local "hub" with a Zwave USB dongle. This one is pricey but works really well. Plug that into a spare laptop lying around the house or buy a Raspberry PI.

Install the Home Assistant package on the computer or PI that you plugged the dongle into. This makes it easy to send and receive signals from Zwave devices without having to learn a bunch of low level APIs. You can write automation commands using YAML markup or write complex, custom tasks using Python. Home Assistant is just a bundle of open source free software, so I don't think of it as a "service", but you could roll your own software if you like that replaces it. It all runs locally, not in the cloud, so you own and control it.

Now you can buy any Zwave switch you want. GE has a bunch of reasonable priced switches.

You can get an "add on" switch that does not hook into your home power but controls smart light bulbs like Hue using over the air signals.

Or you can buy a real switch that does control existing lights through the power in your home -- this will let you send signals to your switch using your Home Assistant "hub" to turn lights on or off and dim them without having to replace existing bulbs.

Have fun.

Your best solution is to replace the in wall switch you're using with a Z-Wave one. This way you can still operate the lamp from the switch AND still control it through the app/Alexa. If you wanted to get fancy, there's a version of this switch that has a dimmer built in as well.


https://smile.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_fkmr0_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1484978461&sr=8-1-fkmr0&keywords=ge+zwave+switch+12724

[on/off switch ](GE Lighting Control On/Off Switch, Z-Wave, In-Wall, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12722 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_N.QGybF1J18NP)

[dimmer](GE Smart Dimmer, Z-Wave, In-Wall, 12724, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12724 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006LQFHN2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JaRGyb67MY877)

Here you go. You can switch the items on those pages to find the toggles as well as fan controls etc

I have 4 bulbs in lamps that aren't on a switch and these work well because you just leave the lamp turned on. I have one switch that controls a smart bulb and I am considering changing to a smart switch like this https://amzn.com/B0035YRCR2 as it too easy for someone to turn off my bulb. I don't believe that the power drain is huge leaving the switch on at all times but don't have any equipment to measure the power usage.

That's probably the route I'm going to take.

and for context, I am 24 and the "apartment" in this case is my room at my folks house as I still live at home. No lease violations to worry about.

Now, if I purchase something with Z-Wave like this (https://amzn.com/B0035YRCR2), will I also have to buy a controller?

I'd prefer it to just work over WiFi which I know the WeMo switch will do but the GE one is a bit cheaper.

I'm confused what you want. The GE z-wave switches work as a relay regardless if the light is on or off. It is a toggle panel so it is never "up" or "down". If you want to use the manually just click the top for on, or the bottom for off. All z-wave switches are pretty much like that. They click either up or down and then return to center. They don't disappear from the network just because the light is off. Are you saying you don't want the switch to turn the light off? Surely I am missing something here.

Why bother having a switch at all if you don't want it to control power to the light? That is what a switch does. It controls power to the circuit it is installed on. What else would it be useful for if it doesn't turn a circuit on or off?

Example:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/

I control my lights the same way you want to, and I use these they work great

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_ph_1?qid=1449077425&sr=sr-1&pi=AC_SX110_SY165&keywords=z+wave+switch

Not, wifi as I wasn't thrilled with some of the options. So, I'm about to go down the Z-Wave route:
USB controller
and Light switch.

I'll be basing my setup off a Raspberry PI.

I've been thinking I may just buy a switch like this GE Z-Wave Wireless Switch and call it a day

It's not on sale right now, but here's one that's close: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0035YRCR2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1492088899&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=ge+zwave+switch&dpPl=1&dpID=41bCFFIGx8L&ref=plSrch

Smartthings is a great, simple way to do this, but it will require buying the hub. Instead of a light bulb, I'd just buy a light switch like this one from GE.

This will allow an easy setup for "Turn on at Sunset and off at sunrise" and will also integrate with Google Home pretty painlessly. May not be the cheapest way to go about it, but it's certainly easy, and it will allow for adding whatever other smart-switches, security sensors, etc. in the future.

Yeah, you need all three to voice control your fireplace through that switch-

https://www.amazon.com/hw/smarthome/B0035YRCR2/requirements?ref=hsx_sh_rqp_dp_rq

You need - echo, hub and switch for a total of close to $300. 200 if you got an echo dot.

Not worth it when you can get actual fireplace remote for $75.

The extra $60 I talked about was to upgrade my non-Alexa compatible insteon hub, to the latest Alexa compatible version.

The GE 12722 is a normal on/off switch, will work with a fan or light, on/off only. They work great, although there is about a half-second delay between when you tap the switch and the light turns on/off, along with an audible click, which is kind of annoying.

The GE 14294 is a dimmer control, works with dimmable bulbs only, cannot be used with a ceiling fan except to control the lights. Press and hold up or down to change the light level. They work well, but I get some weird buzzing from dimmable LED's when they're set to lower levels like 10-20%.

The GE 14287 is the only one compatible with ceiling fans to control the fan speed. Low, Medium, and High settings, which are described as anything between 0-33% being Low, 33-66% is Medium, and 66%+ being High. Also press and hold to increase/decrease speed. I've had no issues with these, they work great in my bedroom to control the fan speed.

For dusk to dawn you can buy a $8 sensor from Lowes. I know it's fun to have everything on the Abode hub, but if all you're going to do is dusk to dawn, the sensor is easy. I have these on all exterior lights.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Woods-Hard-Wire-Photocell-Mini/999912897

Or you could change the light switch that controls the outside lights to a Zwave switch four about $38 and control it that way.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ah thanks! Now just to be clear, I am replacing the existing switches with a zwave switch like this:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0035YRCR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Which has specific slots on the back labeled "line" and "load" (see pic).

https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61lvZWDXnsL._SL1280_.jpg

Do I have to match up the correct wires here (line to slot labeled "line", load wire to "load" slot) or does it not matter?

There are some screw-in Z-Wave devices like that, but some of them have issues depending on what type of bulb you're using.

If the light is controlled by a switch and you have relatively modern wiring with neutral wires present in the switch box, you could also potentially use a Z-Wave switch like this.

1. https://home-assistant.io/
   
2. https://www.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479870595&sr=1-1&keywords=z-stick+gen5
   
3. https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1479870611&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+zwave
   
   **Requires Neutral wire.

When you say triggered, do you mean like when someone breaks into your house?

I have it currently setup so that when I get home, the garage door opens (https://www.lowes.com/pd/Iris-Z-Wave-Garage-Door-Controller-Works-with-Iris/50213045) and my interior lights turn on.

To get the lights to work, I have GE Z wave switches (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2) and some GE Link LED bulbs (https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Connected-60-Watt-Equivalent/dp/B00NOL16K0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1478189524&sr=1-1&keywords=ge+link).

I don't have any Hue products (yet) but I believe they require a hub to allow them to communicate to abode (not sure though)

The newer ones are Z-Wave+, the older ones are just Z-Wave. I run the Leviton Decoras (Z-Wave+) for switches & dimmers. I've added a few of the new GE Fan Controllers, but those have had a rough time being detected correctly by OZCP / HASS.

I've used GE smart switches all around my house and been happy with the result. This is the basic type, but the whole product line works with SmartThings.

I don't have an alarm/siren, but the list of officially supported devices includes a couple of different options for sirens.

>one or two pieces get out of sync. It's easily fixed but annoys my wife.

What's the easy fix?

Also I recommend these switches from GE. You can choose the different types of styles right there on the Amazon page.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2

The biggest issue that I kept running into while trying to think this through - how do I keep power going to the hue or cree bulbs if the switch is in off position? The only workaround was to install a zwave on/off switch that would first trigger to ON and then enable the smart bulb. But then I realized that would double the cost of the setup. Another option was to use a z-wave inline switch that continuously provides power to the bulbs and also lets you toggle the switch. But then I would be tripling the cost. So finally I decided that I would go with just a set of zwave switches with dimmable LED bulbs.

If you want dimming capability - GE has zwave switches specifically marked as 'Dimmers'. They have several models. Fan Control, Dimmers, 3-way, 3-way add-on and also a simple ON/OFF switch.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1480974778&sr=8-2&keywords=GE+z-wave+switch

It's definitely a switch and not a dimmer (specifically this one https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_JjFwybQJGCRY8), leaving the light in didn't help, and the light works (comes on instantly) since I put the original switch back in place.

For light switches: something like this:
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Control-Switch-Z-Wave/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1482171474&sr=8-1&keywords=Zwave+light+switch

I just replaced my dumb wall switches with this:

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Light Switch, On/Off Paddle, In-Wall, White & Lt. Almond Paddles, Repeater & Range Extender, Zwave Hub Required- Works with SmartThings Wink and Alexa, 12722 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_j9XZDbN51E8C6


Sometimes the robot for my garage lights when the door opens after sunset is a bit slow, but I think that’s more to do with wink and not the switch.

This depends on if you currently have a Smart Hub yet or not. If you do, a simple and easy to use switch, would be the GE line of Z-wave switches:

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1491404479&sr=8-3&keywords=Ge+z-wave+switch

However, if you don't have Wink, or Smartthings, and want homekit support, then the Lutron Caseta is probably your best bet. It isn't really complicated, it just looks that way at a glance. But its really just a dimmer switch.

So what I was thinking of was like this switch, but maybe I was having a bit of a brain fart and confusing parts... This one is specifically designed for a multi speed ceiling fan type device. I had thought that there was a concern about wattages on a bathroom exhaust type fan too, but looking at this switch it specifically lists fans as compatible (at least as long as they are under 600w).

Edit: ah ha! The warning is to not use a standard dimmer switch to control fan speed... use a specific fan rated dimmer... or like the first link above.

You could use one of these, they are z-wave and work with SmartThings.
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Lighting-Required-SmartThings-14294/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1537979219&sr=8-4&keywords=ge%2Bz-wave&th=1


It is just a paddle switch that triggers a relay and works with a mains load. I have several hooked up to my kitchen lights and dining room fan/light, both are 120v loads. The switch does require a Neutral wire (white wire) in order to stay powered for the transceiver, but it would be a drop in replacement rather than an attached actuator.

I have a Wink Hub 2 and a Ge Z-Wave Switch and set up a rule that if Ring detects motion to turn on porch lights.

Hello, I use home assistant with a Z-Stick. The following ge switch works really well. Instant updates on the hass ui. I hope to this helps.

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall, Includes White & Light Almond Paddles, Works with Amazon Alexa, 12722 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pvUzzbDESE5HG

depending on your hub - I have smartthings
you should have several choices
you'll need to figure the max current draw of the fan or the HP
then install the appropriate switch

easiest would be the wall switch and some temp sensors, if it wil handle the load

I have the go control - originally for my old garage door (programmed as a momentary switch) - it will handle 20 amps and is cheap.

GE also has a 40 amp heavy zwave switch - for $150ish

with the smartthings hub you could program time on, time off , on for event, off for event , (event could be window opens , temp specified, etc) and then run time for specific period of time or if temp is satisfied with enough connected things you can control all kinds of things - fan included :)
good luck


direct load good for 20amps

GoControl Z-Wave Isolated Contact Fixture Module - FS20Z-1

https://www.amazon.com/GoControl-Z-Wave-Isolated-Contact-Fixture/dp/B00ER6MH22/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=YX3EFBFRGMTV783BT193

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting Control Smart Switch, On/Off, In-Wall
https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2/ref=pd_sim_60_3?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=BB38NVA9J8T5JFDE3QTJ

Incandescent - Minimum Load: 40W, Maximum Load: 960W
Motor – 1/2HP
Resistive – 1800W

GE Z-Wave Wireless Smart Lighting and Appliance Control, 40 Amp, Large Load, Direct-Wire, Indoor/Outdoor

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YTCZZF0/ref=twister_B017SOTBJG?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

A truly internet independent switch would be from devices with Z-Wave, RF, ZigBee, X11. And the more current switches would be the network connected ones from Belkin, TP-Link, etc (pretty much anything with HomeKit, Alexa logo on the box).

The best thing about Home Assistant is that is in completely platform agnostic, so you can mix and match as need. I personally prefer z-wave switches for physical light switches. Ones from GE and Linear have really good build quality. I also use GE for some mains as well. These GE are good. The 3-way switches that pair with these are also dead simple to install as well.

Beyond that, its reasonably safe to use Wifi switches as well. Most switches can be remain within your local network. You can firewall those devices from sending out. Or if you want remote control, you can also always put your home automation on a separate subnet.

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2

I have had great luck with these. Your electrician will be able to install them without problem and they will work well with just about all the home automation hubs.

Just as a disclaimer, I haven't spent much time with centralized solutions. How does the cost compare to smart-switches? I imagine the entire solution would cost quite a bit more.

Yes, something like this: www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2

Not familiar with 'bipolar' as applied to light switches (transistors and moods, yes). If you're talking about three way switches, then you have to wire the WeMo as a single pole switch: hot, common, neutral. You will call the traveler wire but not connect it to the new switch.

Alternatively, you can go Z-Wave and get a master switch and then an add-on switch and maintain your current functionality. Downside (if you want to call it that) is that you need a Z-wave hub and can't connect directly through wifi.

This is going to format like shit because I'm copying it straight from an email I wrote my sister.
The important bits: the hub is Samsung Smartthings, switches are mostly GE zwave switches, voice control provided by Amazon Echo.
Rolling it out across the whole house isn't easy or cheap, but it's worth it when you have someone over and you give the "turn on everything" command and you watch every light pop on, then do it in reverse.
This will get you started :)
>
> Switches: http://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2
>
> Add-on Switches (for 3+ way): http://www.amazon.com/GE-12723-Add-On-Switch/dp/B00RKJS8MQ
>
> Dimmer:  http://www.amazon.com/GE-Z-Wave-Dimmer-In-Wall-12724/dp/B006LQFHN2
>
> Fan: http://www.amazon.com/GE-12730-Z-Wave-Smart-Control/dp/B00PYMGVVQ
>
> SmartThings: http://www.amazon.com/Samsung-SmartThings-Hub-2nd-Generation/dp/B010NZV0GE
>
> Door Locks: http://www.amazon.com/Schlage-Connect-Camelot-Touchscreen-Deadbolt/dp/B00AGK9KOG/ref=lp_511306_1_2?s=hardware&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284077&sr=1-2
>
> Thermostat:  http://www.amazon.com/Nest-Learning-Thermostat-Generation-Works/dp/B0131RG6VK/ref=sr_1_2?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284145&sr=1-2&keywords=thermostat+smart
>
> Echo (for voice control): http://www.amazon.com/Amazon-SK705DI-Echo/dp/B00X4WHP5E/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1461284177&sr=1-1&keywords=echo
>

There are other things like motion sensors and garage door controllers that start opening up some really cool "routines."

I'm not 100% sure what you're asking, but I use these GE Z-Wave light switches in my house and they work flawlessly. They are 'rocker' style so it can't be 'off' when it's 'on' if you know what I mean.

https://www.amazon.ca/GE-45609WB-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2

After buying some 'smart' bulbs early on in my home automation project, I've decided the batter way to go is smart SWITCHES. I'm using several flavors of these: https://www.amazon.com/GE12722-Z-Wave-Wireless-Lighting-Control/dp/B0035YRCR2

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Control-12722/dp/B0035YRCR2

Already good comments here, but TBF the best remote things are outlets and wall switches. That way if/when you hit a switch to turn something off the 'old' way it will still respond if you want it on.

Also, you need a hub. Smartthings or Wink.
The rest are worthless (Hue hub and all the other hubs). IMO Philips Hue is lame. If you want colored bulbs go get Sylvania lightify (cheaper, less crap in your house since it doesn't need its own hub).

Ideal starter setup would be an echo dot $50, a hub $100, two wall switches ($30ea) (for unswitched outlets) and a couple wall paddle switches ($30ea). That much hardware would set you back about $270, but would add a fair bit of fun and convenience.

You will need two things primarily.

One, a SmartHub.
I would go the z-wave route unless you're a huge fan of apple's HomeKit in which case you will want a AppleTV 4. I prefer SmartThings myself, but Wink is also a good option.

Two, Smart Switches. If you go the Z-Wave route, the options are nearly endless. LINEAR and GE makes Z-wave switches that are about $30/piece. Just remember that you need neutral wires in your wall to use them. AeoTec makes some that hide behind your existing switches. Tons of people make the kind that plug into your outlets so you can control things that are plugged into them. Or you can replace the whole receptacle with a new z-wave outlet.
If you go the Apple HomeKit route check out iDevices. It's a bit more expensive, but runs on WiFi which is better than Bluetooth in most cases.

edit: words and stuff