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Reddit mentions of HQST 100 Watt 12V Monocrystalline Lightweight Solar Panel for RV/Boat/Other Off Grid Applications

Sentiment score: 7
Reddit mentions: 8

We found 8 Reddit mentions of HQST 100 Watt 12V Monocrystalline Lightweight Solar Panel for RV/Boat/Other Off Grid Applications. Here are the top ones.

HQST 100 Watt 12V Monocrystalline Lightweight Solar Panel for RV/Boat/Other Off Grid Applications
Buying options
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    Features:
  • 【 High Efficiency】- 100W monocrystalline solar panel with a high conversion efficiency is up to 21%, the ideal output of 500Wh per day (depending on the availability of sunlight). Bypass diodes of the solar panel minimize power drop caused by shade and ensure excellent performance in low-light environments.
  • 【Sturdy】- 12V solar panels come with high-efficiency solar cells that help increase space efficiency. Anti-reflective, high transparency, low iron tempered glass with enhanced stiffness and impact resistance, Withstand high winds (2400 Pa), and snow loads (5400 Pa).
  • 【Long Lifespan】- Advanced encapsulation material with multilayered sheet laminations to enhance cell performance and provide a long service life. Corrosion-resistant aluminum frame for extended outdoor use, allowing the panels to last for decades.
  • 【Easy Installation】- Comes with junction box and MC4 connectors, the pre-drilled holes allow fast mounting and securing. Compatible with different mounting systems such as Z-brackets, Pole Mounts, and Tilt Mounts.
  • 【100% Satisfy Guarantee】- We offer 60 days money back and lifetime warranty for HQST solar panels. Each of our solar panels is testing inspected before leaving the factory to ensure flawlessness. Any questions, please feel free to contact us.
Specs:
Height1.18 Inches
Length35.6 Inches
Sizeold version 2 Packs
Width25.9 Inches

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Found 8 comments on HQST 100 Watt 12V Monocrystalline Lightweight Solar Panel for RV/Boat/Other Off Grid Applications:

u/dopefish_lives · 9 pointsr/overlanding

The best thing you can is build a bed platform and some full length drawers for storing all your stuff, then install a decent high capacity (150ah+) secondary battery set up. This is a great write up on how to charge the secondary battery from your alternator. Once you have that you can have a fridge, get a decent 12v compressor and it'll last for ages, we have this wynter one and absolutely love it. As a fridge we've had it running for 4+ days off our 225ah batteries without recharging. Once you have a fridge the food you can keep makes all the difference in the world. We lived for 3 months in our bus with this setup and it was so nice.

From there you can add some cheap solar panels and you can stay in one spot for ages, although we have one, we barely use it because we were driving every couple days.

The best thing about this setup is that it's all totally removable, so if you want to sell or upgrade later you take it all out and put it in your new rig. Plus you're not limiting your resell market (most truck owners don't want an overlanding rig).

You have yourself an awesome truck, I loved our 96 T100, with 225k miles and it still ran like a champ, never broke down on us and everything except the shocks and wheels were stock.

u/TheRoadAbode · 5 pointsr/vandwellers

Here's a list and example found on amazon for all the major parts. I'll also include a wiring diagram at the end.

Solar Panel $169.99 - 100W Flexible & Thin

Solar Cable $18.99 - 20ft with male and female heads (cut in half for + & -)

[Charge Controller]
(https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019QSX0CG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) $34.99 - 30A gives you room to add more panels

Battery $160 - 100Ah AGM will provide enough power depending on fridge but requires no maintenance

Fuse Panel $35 - 6 circuits with negative and cover

12V Sockets $6 - Get some of these for plugging in appliances and phones. You can buy 12V adapters for almost any electronic besides most kitchen appliances.

Pick up some 10 gauge stranded wire from your local hardware store (home depot) to wire the battery and fuse panel to the charge controller. You shouldn't need much since you want the battery as close as possible to the controller. You can buy smaller wire (16 or 18 guage) for wiring outlets/appliances to the fuse panel. 50ft of that should be fine unless you want multiple outlets on the other side of the van.

You'll also need some ATC blade fuses for your fuse panel. You can buy these at a local auto parts store pretty cheap. 15 amps should be enough than anything you'll be pulling.

To connect the wire ends to the battery and fuse panel you will need these wire terminals for the corresponding wire guages you are using. Along with these female terminals to connect to the 12V sockets. All of these can be found at your local auto parts store for cheap sometimes all together in a kit.

You'll also want a pair of wire strippers/crimper for wiring.

This is the best wiring diagram I can find. Most are so overcomplicated. This diagram does not show the fuse panel but you can see the empty slots on the far right of the charge controller where you insert the wiring for that, it's called the "load." This diagram also shows an inverter which is something I didn't go into because you will only need that if you HAVE to run a 110V appliance. I know you mentioned a kettle but maybe you could just install a gas stove in your van and use that to heat water? That's what we use :) Installing the inverter should be pretty straight forward though if you need it but remember you will waste energy going from 12v to 110v so 12v is more efficient.

Hope this can help you (and maybe others) in some way. I plan on making a more in depth version of this guide in the near future along with a video but finding the time has been difficult! Let me know any more questions you have :D

u/samsc2 · 2 pointsr/Augusta

Just awesome! You should look into attaching flexible solar cells to your cars hood/roof/trunk it won't provide a huge amount of power but if you leave it in the sun while you're at work it can do quite a lot.

Something like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017OMTAV6/ref=s9_simh_hd_bw_b2RMf7L_p86_d0_i3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-2&pf_rd_r=021PQZ6ADKS1T9RYBRKF&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=cda561f3-60b8-4333-8d8c-095d40efbb7d&pf_rd_i=2236628011

You can probably fit about 4 on your car giving you roughly 400 watts. that's .4kWh's so if you drive to work and spend 8 hours you'll be able to charge it 3.2kWh's that's a 10% charge for free.

To do it for your system all depends on how the batteries are setup i/e voltage. You just match the voltage with the panels put in diodes to prevent flowback and bam you've got yourself a simple trickle charger. You'll have to attach the wires but that's as simple as a rubber/plastic tube. Get it small enough and it'll look great.

u/theoryface · 2 pointsr/vandwellers

Yeah, I thought anyone interested in the thread would be! But as soon as I posted the original version with amazon links, it was auto-deleted. Weird.

Oh well, here are my products:

Solar panel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OMTAV6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2R53I6ASRE7TH&psc=1

Charge controller: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JMLPP12/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IMF9F8IHLJ6EN&psc=1

House battery: http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/SSBQ/3478PLT/03321.oap?year=1967&make=Ford&model=Mustang&vi=1332302&ck=Search_03321_1332302_-1&pt=03321&ppt=C0005

Battery isolator: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0058SGDFK/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I2UYT4LFVI14AN

Van fan: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002OWAIB8/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=I1Q9S1UN7Z94H7&psc=1

LED lights: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007JF2A6G/ref=od_aui_detailpages02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Fuse block: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000K2MBPA/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=IK1ERB55YT6QX&psc=1

Busbar: https://www.amazon.com/Blue-Sea-MiniBus-Grounding-Terminal/dp/B0058GA4IO/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1467345205&sr=8-11&keywords=6+terminal+bus

Main line fuses (inline): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WZHE3A4/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3NTUA0DGQ65YX&coliid=ICS8GYAQNUJV1&psc=1

u/gsasquatch · 2 pointsr/ebikes

The key I think is a bike trailer. I have one for the kids, and with 50lbs back there, it's not as noticeable as you'd think, even pedaling the old fashioned way. My trailer is about 24"x36"

So, for batteries, 60 mile range, at 50 watt/hour per mile means you'll need 3000 watt hours. Lithium Ion gives you about 128 watt hours per kg, so that's about 24kg, or about 60lbs. Probably close to $2500 for battery, charger, etc.

If you look for solar panels you can get a 100 watt semi-flexible panel. Semi-flexible is more for the weight, I'd mount it on some 1/4" ply. Probably enough to give you 30 miles in 3 days or so. They are 2' x 4' so, more area than you'd want on a bike, getting back to the trailer. Trailer would also be a handy place to store your gear. Make sure you get/make the appropriate charge controller. I'd guess about $800 for panels, controller, mount trailer etc.


Between a big enough battery to actually do the round trip, and some solar charging in case you want to go further, I'd say it'd be entirely feasible. You could even power the trailer, and leave only a throttle and a hitch on your bike.

You could trade off some watt hours in battery for solar, where you make that cut is up to you and how much you think you're into pedaling, how long you'll be out, whether you can find AC for a while on the way.

Personally for the bike I'd go heavy and comfortable with a big mid-drive running at 48 volts. I'd keep one battery on the bike for running around without the trailer. I'd say about $2500 for bike, motor, trailer, controller etc.

The devil is in the details though, with the bike choice, and the electronic jiggery pokery. It's feasable. It'd be real cool. You could make the trailer look real spiffy.


Solar charge controller, might work: https://www.amazon.com/Y-SOLAR-Regulator-Controller-Battery-DC12-60V/dp/B01IBGXM86/ref=sr_1_31?ie=UTF8&qid=1469222375&sr=8-31&keywords=48v+solar+charger

Solar panel: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017OMTAV6?psc=1

Battery: http://lunacycle.com/batteries/packs/48v/48v-panasonic-ncr18650b-20ah-power-density/

Trailer: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0029KBA26?psc=1


For all of this you are comfortably into the range of buying a motorcycle.

u/VDeco · 1 pointr/vandwellers

I've read that they are having trouble with the 100 watt version, but I think the 50 watts are still being produced.

I was looking into HQST. They seem to have good reviews and they are cheaper.

Edit: Looks like Renogy sold their raw materials to HQST. I'm not sure what they did to fix the issue that Renogy had, but those who have purchased them seem happy.

u/IAmThisGuyIKnow · 1 pointr/vandwellers

Looks like the maximum amperage of the panels I'd use is 5.7A each. So even if I put two 100w panels up they would only produce 11.4A.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B017OMTAV6/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458266599&sr=8-1&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=flexible+solar+panel&dpPl=1&dpID=41%2B3J-Kt2sL&ref=plSrch

Also, 25ft is definitely excessive (I'm in a minivan) so I'd feel fine cutting down the size to closer to 10-15ft. So, looks like 10 guage would be fine for 11.4 max amps at 10-15ft. Do you think those calculations check out?

Also, since one side of each wire (positive/negative) would have to go into the solar controller, would I be okay to just buy one wire and then cut it in half? I'd leave the sides with the male and female mc4 connectors where I expect the panels to go, and the exposed sides where I expect the controller would go. Does that make sense?

u/nappiestapparatus · 1 pointr/vandwellers

I have two of these on the roof of my van and love them: http://www.amazon.com/HQST-Monocrystalline-Flexible-Solar-Panel/dp/B017OMTAV6

I attached them with the strongest outdoor double stick tape I could find, and ran caulk around the edges to seal it from water getting underneath.