Reddit mentions of IIT 26001 Professional 6-12V Circuit Tester - Indicator Light by Industrial Tools

> Ok, fuses next. All clear

Get a 12V test light, like this.

Get a copy of your bike's wiring diagram. If you don't have a workshop manual yet, this is a good excuse.

Hook the ground clip end to the engine case near where the negative battery cable connects. Start by probing the positive battery terminal. Then work your way toward the ignition switch, touching both sides of every component/connector until you find the point where it doesn't light up.

I'm guessing you won't have to go far, because it sounds like the main fuse.

> I still think its the speakers

Good point. They're really easy to replace, 3 or 4 screws each. Re reading my reply I realize I came off as an asshole, my apologies. Sinus infection.

For $10 or so you can buy a "blown fuse detector" and check all the fuses within a minute.
https://www.amazon.com/Professional-6-12V-Circuit-Tester-Industrial/dp/B003UHNMMS

> Theory: The camshaft slipped a tooth and caused un-ignited gas/air mixture to enter the exhaust system and ignite, causing a leak.

What I love about hyundais is how easy it is to change/fix timing, you could always check it. In that model you can just take off one of the top engine mounts, unscrew the plastic on the side. This is a thing, your theory here. It happens.

Low voltage cut off feature, part of most hardwiring kits.

Step 1: Figure out if your dash cam is Mini USB, or Micro USB.

Micro USB looks like most cellphone chargers.

Mini USB looks like a box.

Step 2: Figure out what type of fuses your vehicle uses: Mini, Mini low profile common. Micro 2, Micro 3, ATO less common.

Tap a fuse, and all fuses should match your vehicle.

Step 2: Decide: Cheap or Expensive hardwire kit

• Cheap kits have flaws ($10 USD) - Short cable lengths (that little black box will end up on your dashboard), Lacks 2nd 5 amp fuse for tap a fuse (purchasable at any automotive store,) Vulnerable to cold (Once car warms up it is fine.) Make sure there is an Inline fuse (that little black tube) it is a safety device in case of a serious accident/fire. Low voltage Cut off feature: (Not Adjustable/Preset) works for most vehicles most of the time, Voltage only.
  
  
• Expensive kits have less/no flaws ($24 USD) (Adjustable) Voltage/Timer based.
  
  Hardwire the dash cam to an ignition only fuse.
  
  Do not use: Airbags/Ignition computer/Security system/Headlights/High voltage/Hard to replace/Safety/expensive parts.
  
  Most hardwire to cig lighter (as it is often ignition only) or Ignition key.
  
  There is a device: Fuse tester light ($6 USD) this can be used to identify always on, ignition only, fuses, or you could get a Multimeter ($9 USD) and do the same thing.
  
  ---
  
  My personal opinion is Aukey is a bad copy of A119 variants. A119 has a specific hardwiring kit
  
  A119 hardwiring kit ($10 USD) Which is superior to the cheap kit in some ways (able to use ignition coil to decide when on/off as it is 3 wire instead of 2 wire.

How about this???


https://www.amazon.com/Professional-6-12V-Circuit-Tester-Industrial/dp/B003UHNMMS


And what part do I plug it into? Top or bottom on this picture... Imgur