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Reddit mentions of Iot Relay - Enclosed High-power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or Wifi, Relay Shield

Sentiment score: 11
Reddit mentions: 41

We found 41 Reddit mentions of Iot Relay - Enclosed High-power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or Wifi, Relay Shield. Here are the top ones.

Safe, Reliable Power ControlOne circuit, 4 outlets, 2x NC, 2x NOWires to your Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC, or other microTakes the place of a relay board. Fully assembled and ready to use.Includes surge supression, debounce, safety breaker
Specs:
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Found 41 comments on Iot Relay - Enclosed High-power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or Wifi, Relay Shield:

u/telekinetic · 8 pointsr/AskElectronics

I am a huge fan of this little box: Iot Relay - Enclosed High-power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or Wifi, Relay Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_other_awd_efNjxb4112FRV

u/FuRePo · 6 pointsr/3Dprinting

> I'm not interested in a hard wired switch to the Raspberry Pi's GPIO pins; controlling mains power directly seems entirely too dangerous.

I do that, but using one of these, which eliminates any concern about electrocuting yourself. (I got it for about $17 but it's currently $28.) It's basically a two-outlet power strip with surge protection and safety breaker, controlled by the Raspberry Pi.

There's an OctoPi plugin that will turn off the power when the printer is idle, after a configurable delay, and when the temperature has reached a configurable threshold. It also lets me turn on/off the printer and a lamp by clicking its toolbar icon. Edit: this plugin is called PSU Control.

As a bonus, there's another OctoPi plugin that will use the same mechanism to turn off the power if excessive heat-bed or extruder temperature is detected.
Edit: this plugin is called Temperature Failsafe.

u/takecareofmyplant · 6 pointsr/raspberry_pi

Hey, I use the GPIO to control this IoT relay power switch!

It was super easy to set up!

u/zim2411 · 3 pointsr/hometheater

I found this on Amazon a while back. You can use the 12v trigger as an input to turn devices on/off.

u/dboytim · 3 pointsr/homelab

I've done something similar - I had a IOT relay outlet ( https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2 ) I cut the end off a USB cable, plugged it into my server, and hooked the power lines from the cut end into the input of the outlet strip.

Then I plugged my MD1000 into the outlets. That way when my server was on, the MD1000 was too. If my server shut down (ie after a few minutes on UPS in an outage), my MD1000 would shut off too.

u/Umlautica · 3 pointsr/audiophile

I have the nc400 kits from Hypex as well and use this triggered power strip.

Better yet though, the SMPS600 power supply has a standby trigger input which would be easy to expose through the chassis on a panel mount 3.5mm jack.

u/DZCreeper · 3 pointsr/hometheater

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

You can use the 5V power from a USB port to trigger the relay on a switched outlet.

u/mr1337 · 3 pointsr/homedefense

Personally, I wouldn't mess with mains voltage going through a relay board like this.

I would run the 12 volts to something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/

It takes anything between 3 and 48 volts DC to activate.

You can plug your things directly into it. That way, you won't have to strip mains voltage and splice in this relay with wires exposed.

u/dkseid · 2 pointsr/Arcade1Up

Back instock @ Amazon. Images are showing correctly as well. I have this in two cabs, relay is triggered by the usb port on the lcd controller. So when I turn on screen pi is powered on.

u/levenimc · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I'm using this to power everything. I modified it so that the "normally on" outlets are "always on", rasp pi plugs in to always on, lights and printer get powered by the 'normally off' outlets which get triggered by GPIO on the pi.

EDIT: link https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/6inch3DPeoplePrinter · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

The thought of leaving my homebrew printer running while away frightens me, this is a setup to ease my fears of burning the house down.

There are multiple redundancies built in but the basic idea is simple:

  • Control a couple relays with the raspberry pi that is running Octoprint.
  • One relay will have an Arduino that monitors for smoke/fire, so the raspberry pi can shut down power if either is detected.
  • The other relay controls power to the printer

    Yesterday I came up with an easy way to reboot or turn off the Pi using the relay, basically have the Pi ground hooked up to the 4 channel relay using the normally closed side of a channel, then to reset/shutdown simply switch the relay so the ground is no longer connected.

    Note: The fans and lights are controlled via SPST switch not SPDT.
u/cweagans · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

I built a cabinet for the noise isolation, since I work in the same room as my printer. I only print PLA, but it's definitely been worthwhile just in the noise reduction alone. Pics here: http://imgur.com/a/5ik2k

Parts:

Cabinet exhaust fan (not installed yet, but will be able to monitor the temp in the cabinet, and if it gets too high, the fan can kick on and start removing some of the hot air): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009CO543S

Shelf legs:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015R2NIHC

Relay box (rPi controls power to lights and printer via GPIO):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2

Door hinges: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01BFW3FA8

Door: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/90291858/

Lights: http://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/20119418/

I can't seem to find the Stuva cabinet that I bought. They used to have two sizes - one that was shallow and one that was deep enough for the Maker Select. The latter is no longer on their site, but basically just go to Ikea and pick out a cabinet that will accommodate your printer. The rest is really just porcelain to make things a tad nicer for you.

u/freewarefreak · 2 pointsr/IOT

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

I bought this. It's awesome. Simple to setup. Just cut a USB cable in half and you have a relay that turns on when I start my computer.

u/devsfan1830 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

TOTALLY forgot the Thingiverse project there includes these two items (May be different in Germany) but no plans on how he would use them:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=6T7GYD6MLIXG&coliid=ISX3Y7OVC4WJG

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01F2X3VY6/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=6T7GYD6MLIXG&coliid=I1RX0NNSX35Z92


The plan is to use an arduino to monitor for smoke with the sensor, ad if it senses any trip the relay to kill power to everything including itself. Then some of those fire extinguisher cans to handle any flames. Still wrking out how I'll do the sensor exactly. I'm familiar with Arduino code my my concern is having a print fail due to a false positive. The other is making sure the power stays off once the arduino senses smoke. I'm THINKING since the relay has a Normally Off plug I basically use that to make a "dead mans switch" of sorts. As long as the arduino is on and outputs a +5V signal, circuit stays on. The sensor senses smoke and triggers the 5V signal to go to 0, relay cuts power and nothing can turn it on. That would honestly even work out well for a fire since flames would predictably kill the electronics which in turn would/should cause the relay to trip. The point is have the sensor detect smoke BEFORE flames.

u/harpastum · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

This enclosed IoT power strip might be what you’re looking for. They have documentation showing lots of different inputs (including 120v AC) you can provide to trigger the outlets.

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-Power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or WiFi, Relay Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Tzt0BbAK4FKZF

u/ssaltmine · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

What you need is a relay that can be activated and deactivated when it receives a digital signal from the Pi.

For example this product
https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/

https://www.adafruit.com/product/2935

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071WWMMDD/

Most common relays that you find will need an input of 12 V to 24 V of direct current. The Pi only provides 5 V, so you need to check the appropriate voltage. Otherwise, you'd need a second source, and a way to switch this other source, to switch the main power outlet.

u/thelights0123 · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I'm assuming that the Pi would be connected to a screen. If you are comfortable with soldering, I would go for this because it is cheaper than a Makey Makey. Either way, I would write a Python script (considered the easiest to learn, and has compatibility with everything) that controls everything.

You could go with /u/EkriirkE's suggestion, or an alternative would be to buy something like this that handles all of the HV electronics, so you have no risk of dangerous things happening (not including sticking a wire in a plug, of course).

The Python script could probably use PyGame for the display, and either waits for keys or uses Adafruit's code for the capacitive touch HAT.

u/Vaporware371 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I'd say, it depends on what it's for. A 7W heat pad sounds like maybe a heater for a terrarium?

If you aren't 100% comfortable with the mains wiring, but want to do the electronics, there are some enclosed relays equipped with standard outlets, such as this:

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

​

Short of this fully enclosed type of device, I am a fan of keeping the AC side of my designs confined to a DIN rail, with mounted relays such as these:

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Phoenix-Contact/2903356?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtrMkCunk6IWjKYC2uVZ%252B%2FVoM3QlUW2qpWVQJcUpmRMTw%3D%3D

maybe this is overkill, but I think about worst-case scenarios: a lot of water being splashed on the design, or some kind of fire damage. PCBs that handle both mains voltage and DC, such as a power supply, have a lot of design features including milled notches and quality conformal coatings, that I'm not equipped to do. I'd rather keep any voltage completely away from my controller or similar parts.

​

Aside from the direct electrical hazards, I'd consider other possibilities of your device failing. Would there be harm if this heat pad were to be stuck on or off for a long time? Could it be damaged if it were to be rapidly switched on and off over a long period of time? Both of these conditions could be caused by a bug in code or a faulty electronic part. Just things to consider in your design.

u/Benny600rr · 2 pointsr/homelab

I got an IOT relay for Christmas. I plan on doing something similar with some of my machines once I find the time. Using a Pi-zero you're looking at $25-$30 for the 2 pieces.

https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

u/VMikeSmith · 1 pointr/woodworking

Me too, I have one of these relay power strips controlled by the XController. Both the spindle and vacuum are digitally controlled so they shut off when the cut is done.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a webcam pointed on the XCarve. The XController itself is plugged in through a WeMo switch. I occasionally start a long cut and can't sit there and babysit it. I broke a bit and ruined a piece of work once, which sucked. Now I can remotely monitor the workpiece and if something goes wrong I can remotely shut off the power to the XController, which both stops the movement of the stepper motors but also via that relay shuts off both the spindle and the vacuum.

Being in the room is safer, and you should never ever leave a machine running... but I have kids and a day job and finite time, so I figured out this adequate workaround.

u/sleimoha · 1 pointr/arduino

I posted this further below, but this is the simplest/safest thing you can get:

Iot Relay Amazon

/u/nickredsox found this, its less bulky:
Powerswitch tail 2

u/doc_willis · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

with this - you can switch on/off power to things as easy as you can blink an led on the pi. But it might be overkill, but is sure is a neat and handy device.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2

u/robbob2112b · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Zwave operates at 900mhz in the us...the one i posted will hook to your wifi for control..... control is an app on my android pjone/tablet..... you can get cheaper hubs in it $50 range when i got mine, but they are not internet connected or app controlled...... a hub is required to do zwave..... but not all sensors connect to all hubs.....

Saw this today....with it, a RPi, and a smoke detector that has a digital output you could do the same... or use a cheap pair of temp sensors... one for ambient temp, the other above the printer... have it read both every second and if the top one rises super high and super fast assume a fire.. might be able to wire directly from detector to control circuit.....

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WV7GMA2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A3D4241373L385&psc=1

I also use these.. turns off the water in case of a leak...or tells me i left the garage open....working on a circuit to let me remote close it and 'accidentally' lock the wife out...j/k

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LXR0B8Q/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JGMZNNG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JGMZNNG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/snowzach · 1 pointr/voroncorexy

I had to make some modifications to where the extruders sat to make it functional but this is my enclosure. I use OctoPrint and this Power Strip to remote control powering on and off the printer and lights. It's got a couple fans and some activated charcoal batting to help with any smell.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/arduino

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-Power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or WiFi, Relay Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rFMTCbZKWEWY0

u/jrouvier · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

I have the same concern, so I'm getting:

  • Kidde SM120X smoke detector relay ($11)
  • Kidde i12060 Hardwired Smoke alarm ($11)
  • Round ceiling box ($2)
  • Iot Relay ($18)
  • Misc wires (?)
  • Total: $42-ish

    The smoke detector will be mounted inside the printer's enclosure. The SM120X relay will turn on the Iot Relay box via it's normally closed contacts. The printer and accessories are plugged into the Iot relay. Thereby, if the smoke detector goes off, which should happen pretty quickly given the small enclosed space, power will immediately be cut to the entire printer.

    As a phase two, I'm going to add a CO2 suppression system:

  • 5lbs of CO2 ($30)
  • CO2 Pressure regulator w/ solenoid ($100)
  • Iot Relay (additional one) ($18)
  • Misc pipe fittings

    I'd plug the solenoid into and additional Iot relay, this time wired to the normally open contacts of the SM120X relay.

    In the final system, any smoke would cause the printers power to be shut off and the enclosure filled with CO2. Given the amount of CO2 (~40 cubic feet in a 10 cubic foot enclosure, it would not only smother any actual fire, but cool down the printer significantly.
u/V3rsed · 1 pointr/hometheater

I bought this (https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=Iot+Relay&qid=1571166495&s=electronics&sr=1-1) to plug my AV rack fans into. Uses the 12V trigger from the receiver to energize the appropriate outlets on the brick. I also got this (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GIGTQ6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) to simply wire the trigger to the brick.

u/rks1789 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

I just did this, but didn't feel like futzing with cutting powersupply wires.. I used this:

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-Power... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I soldered pins to the 5v output pins of the powerblock and attached them to the relay, using the same wires suggested above. Make sure you wire positive and negative right.

It has an always on(powerblock), two typically off (amp and screen) and one typically on, not used by me.

The power cord is super short, so extend or replace, it uses a standard cord like computers use...

u/stazna01 · 1 pointr/Arcade1Up

Thanks so much. I did some research and found that the Pi doesn't draw enough power to trip some of these strips (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=150529.0) but I then found a IoT Relay (https://www.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2/) which can start up and shut down by using the gpio positive and ground headers. I would never have found this if you wouldn't have pushed me in that direction, so thanks again!

u/i8beef · 1 pointr/ReefTank

I agree, if you knew what you were doing its actually a pretty simple system. I could handle the entire control surface pretty well through a Pi running node-red and GPIO 3.3v control of some 15A relays...

On the other hand, I'm NOT an EE, and dealing with real 120v through circuits I would design would make me afraid I was going to burn my house down. There are pre-rolled addressable power strips that I could do this with, but price-wise I think it'd hit a LOT closer to an Apex price at that point. There's stuff like this out there too that might be closer to price though.

I considered this as it's basically how my home-automation system and custom alarm system function, but I'm punting to ZWave for actual switch control. It makes me wish I felt more comfortable around 120v circuit design like this, because I'm pretty sure I'd like the control afforded by this approach.

u/IcyKettle · 1 pointr/sonos

Like this?

https://smile.amazon.com/Iot-Relay-Enclosed-High-Power-Raspberry/dp/B00WV7GMA2

BTW, the trigger on the Port is meant for just amps in general, not the AMP, which is the Sonos amp.

Cheers.

u/structure77 · 1 pointr/arduino

Maybe toss an inexpensive relay module into the mix. Code the relay to close at a temperature around 90F so when you surround it with your hands the relay clicks. You can explain the relay can be connected to a fan or HVAC control to start cooling.

Edit: Or, if you have ~20 USD to spend pick up one of these guys and actually have a fan turn on! Note: This is certainly not the cheapest way to accomplish this!

u/Kowen14 · 1 pointr/hobbycnc

Any updates from inventables on the app? You can have the router turn on and off thru easel just need a relay

Iot Relay - Enclosed High-power Power Relay for Arduino, Raspberry Pi, PIC or Wifi, Relay Shield https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00WV7GMA2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FUY-zbBTQD5GY

u/EpochHipster · 1 pointr/raspberry_pi

Additionally I had an IoT power relay connected to the GPIO pin 14 in order to switch the humidifier on when the humidity drops below 80%. Upon disconnecting the relay, the BME280 sensor ran stable all day long (previously the I2C bus crashed after a couple hours). The IoT power relay only draws 2-3 mA at 3v3, and I am now successfully running the BME280 sensor off of a GPIO pin 17, so the total mA between the relay and sensor should be way less than 50 mA. I'm not sure why the relay causes the I2C bus to crash.

The BME280 sensor seems to run fine off of GPIO pin 17, being switched on for 2 seconds before taking a reading and switched back off. I think this setup may be advantageous, because it should prevent the sensor from heating up and giving inaccurate temperature readings.