Reddit mentions of LE 12V LED Strip Light, Flexible, SMD 2835, 16.4ft Tape Light for Home, Kitchen, Party, Christmas and More, Non-Waterproof, Warm White(Not Include Power Adapter)

Thanks! They were pretty easy. Just a 12V wall wart and these:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00

I did something like that for my Lego shelf. Used some LED strips and a motion sensor module to keep it all automatic. I had no idea what I was doing and bought a bunch of stuff I didn't need, but...

• LED Strip - $7
  
• Cable to run the power across the shelf - $8 (should've just used some spare cabling I had...)
  
• Motion detector - $10
  
• Power plug - $8
  
  And if you're comfortable soldering, that's pretty much all you need to get something up and running. But I wanted to make it all modular so I could take it apart and set it back up without too much hassle. So I ended up buying adapters and coaxial power cable things:
  
  
• Ribbon to coaxial adapter - $5
  
• Coaxial to regular 'ol cable adapater - $7
  
• Power splitter - $6.50
  
  I'm pretty sure I did it as inefficiently and cost ineffective as possible because I have severe amazon impulse control issues and just buy shit to get started on fun projects. I'm sure with a little more research/guidance you could do it a little cheaper. But I'm happy with my setup for now.
  
  and here's a picture of the shelf. The shelf is terrible, and it's all a wreck because I'm in the middle of moving, but it shows the brightness pretty well. Oh and I have about a 1/4 roll of LEDs left, so I'd guess 2 or 3 rolls would take care of your shelf.

i bought these LED strip lights, which can be cut down to whatever length, and this power supply. i also bought some extra wire and connectors so i could run one long strip of LED lights through all four enclosures. worked around the adhesive issue by hot gluing the fuck out of them. i scratched up a line about two inches away from the front wall, to create some texture for the hot glue to grab, and allowed some extra glue to sort of wrap around the strip and prevent the strip from being peeled away from the glue.

2 rolls for the battery operated one ($14 CAD each, local Toronto electronics store) and 6 rolls of this from Amazon: http://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B00HSF64JG?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Two rolls for the small window, 4 rolls for the large one. You have to wire each roll to the power supply in parallel or it gets dim at the end.

I was thinking the same thing, LED strip lights and a power supply can be had for cheap i.e.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The linked LED strip even came with a barrel connector already connected and ready to plug in, as well as a secondary connector, just cut to get the desired amount of light, then peel and stick.

I just redid my mother's under cabinet kitchen(note: I used the waterproof version of those) lighting for like $30, previously she spent like $300 on expensive proprietary LED pucks(that she can't even buy any more) and electrician to hard wire it(I piggy backed my power supply off the touch power switch for the LED pucks and installed an inline rocker switch on the power cord that went to the power supply I used)

The storm has lights on it as standard doesn't it? If not I suggest them as an aid to keep orientation.

I use strips of LED ribbon stuck to the frame engine mounts to let me know where I'm pointed. They occasionally get ripped and damaged but having them on the motor mounts rather than front and back really helps and it's easy to snip and replace.

Also, it's easy to panic but be prepared to power down when you lose control. Your powered recovery attempt took you from a nice, open space with a guaranteed soft landing to a wooded area across the path of some walkers. You chose that area to test for a reason. Set yourself a rough perimeter you're happy with. Attempt recovery by all means but if you start to leave the area you chose, ditch it down.

LE 12V LED Strip Light, Flexible, SMD 2835, 16.4ft Tape Light for Home, Kitchen, Party, Christmas and More, Non-Waterproof, Warm White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00HSF64JG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_GB9FDbVAAC101

That is a ton of light for a living room, and if you're using incandescent bulbs, a lot of heat, too.

Get some LED tape and go wild. Oversized old fashioned christmas lights are a silly plan in 2016.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00 for example.

[Not an electrician.]

Here's the basic mods I went with for our Vandura. We wanted to keep it simple and get it done in a couple months. Since I work full-time, time was the major constraining factor. We only use ours for a weekend fun vehicle so your needs may be different. We like ours, but it's definitely not Instagram worthy. I'm assuming yours has the conversion setup inside (wood paneling etc.) so it should be similar

- Replace the factory valence and center lighting with LEDs. The stock lights are garbage and one of the valence lights shorted out with the previous owner and was a safety issue. We used multi-colored dimmable lights for the center ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07ML5ZJQR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) and simple LEDs for the valence ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). After install the valence lights are SUPER bright; in retrospect, I'd use just one strip for all three valence lights

- Remove the rear captains chairs and install vinyl flooring in the middle. We have an electrically driven sofa/bed in the back that we wanted to keep in case we need extra legal seating, so we only installed flooring in the middle portion of the van between the cab and rear sofa seating. We found some vinyl "planks" at Walmart for dirt cheap (~$20 for the whole area) but the adhesive they came with didn't work great, especially with drastic temp changes. I'd suggest going with single sheet vinyl or laminate or, at the very least, using liquid nails as a substitute adhesive.

- Built a counter space/storage cabinet. I just used basic sideboard plans found on the internet. This stores our aux battery, fuse block, inverter and gives some additional storage space

- Install a battery isolator, aux battery, fuse block, inverter etc. We went with the Battery Doctor isolator ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0058SGDFK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ) because of the added ability to use the aux battery to supplement the starter battery in emergencies

- Install forced air ventilation. I didn't want to cut through the roof for a MaxxAir fan because we liked the lighting. Since the conversion van has 3 sets of sliding windows, we created a make-shift side vent fans out of 12V computer fans ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B072NCYQRY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). Three fans fit in each sliding window. Each fan is rated at 52CFM so (in theory) we get ~200-300CFM with two windows (eventually I'll get accurate measures with an anemometer just for curiosity's sake). Since we don't cook in the van and the van has multiple windows that open, this just helps the forced airflow to prevent condensation while sleeping.

- Upgraded the CRT TV to a flat screen ( https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06X3VH4VK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ). Side note: the TV remote IR frequency changes the color of the multi-color LEDs. Maybe you can get around this with a different LED setup. We just turn the TV on before the lights to get around it

- Wired the TV, vent fans, and center lights to the aux battery. We originally had the valence lights hooked to it too, but since they're so damn bright we never used them and I reconnected them to the starter battery.

- Eventually, I'll build a storage compartment in the back that also opens to a table out the back hatch.

- So far, we're happy with just a cooler between the cab chairs. If we eventually go to a 12V fridge, we'll probably need another battery which doesn't make economic sense for what we use the van for

I install a lot of SMD LED strips. I have had good luck with these. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HSF64JG?cache=27cdb7082ac1067e2e4766bf86b4860d&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412750393&sr=8-3#productDescription_secondary_view_pageState_1412750433171
They use .5 Amps per Meter. You will need 4 rolls so you will also need a12Volt power supply rated at 10 Amps and 120 Watts. Something like this would work. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LWQ2GS0?cache=27cdb7082ac1067e2e4766bf86b4860d&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1412750809&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2
To control them you will need a dimmer or simple on-off switch. I would suggest a remote dimmer. Like this one. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B009C34ZV6?cache=27cdb7082ac1067e2e4766bf86b4860d&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70&qid=1412751212&sr=8-12#ref=mp_s_a_1_12
I personally prefer warm white for indirect lighting in a kitchen area. Cool white can be a bit harsh bouncing off the ceiling.
I hope this helps.

"Warm White" is a common LED color - https://www.amazon.com/Flexible-Non-waterproof-Christmas-Holiday-Decoration/dp/B00HSF64JG/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1483014898&sr=1-1&keywords=flexible+led+strip+warm+white

Light are here

I bought the power supply from a local Goodwill for $3 from their electronics section.

I had undercabinet florescent with power coming directly into them, and I replaced them with a combination of led strip lighting, diffusers and individual power supplies. Then I changed the switch to a GE z-wave. Here's a list of the products I used:

Power Supply: ($14 x 3)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017R17YQC/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

LED Lights: ($8) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HSF64JG/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Diffusers: ($26)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PJSUZSK/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Zwave Switch (now they are $38, but I got some on clearance for $21)

https://www.amazon.com/GE-Wireless-Lighting-Required-14291/dp/B01M1AHC3R/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1519156674&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=ge+zwave&psc=1

All in all I replaced lighting under the three main cabinets and the total cost was under $100. I'm not sure it was the best way to do it, but it works! For my application dimming wasn't what I was looking for, but I think you could swap out some parts for the dimmable versions.