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Reddit mentions of Lockitt POSI-TAP 6 pack wire connectors 20-22 awg

Sentiment score: 1
Reddit mentions: 4

We found 4 Reddit mentions of Lockitt POSI-TAP 6 pack wire connectors 20-22 awg. Here are the top ones.

Lockitt POSI-TAP 6 pack wire connectors 20-22 awg
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Found 4 comments on Lockitt POSI-TAP 6 pack wire connectors 20-22 awg:

u/k3nos · 3 pointsr/GolfGTI

I used a POSI-TAP and would highly recommend it. Seriously takes a couple minutes.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MPW54G/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/androidzerofour · 1 pointr/teslamotors

You can hook up your trailer wiring to the 12v output under the rear seat (many threads in Tesla forums about connecting to this for aftermarket sound systems). I used POSI-TAP connectors to tap into the tail light wiring (see https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B001MPW54G ). The tail light wire colors are as follows:
Passenger side: red=turn, yellow=lights, grey=brakes
Driver side: purple=turn, pink=lights, grey=brakes


This is the specific wiring kit that I used for my car https://www.etrailer.com/Wiring/Tekonsha/119190KIT.html

u/scott_fx · 1 pointr/CarAV

Lockitt POSI-TAP 6 pack wire connectors 20-22 awg https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001MPW54G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NrBExbRF1T086


If that's too invasive you could put a Hall effect sensor around a wire and a microcontroller to monitor a change in current draw. Seems like more work than needed though.

u/idiocy_foreach · 1 pointr/AndroidAuto

> No Way! I also have a 2011 Honda CRZ EX. I'm installing a Kenwood DDX0703S next week so maybe you can help me avoid some headaches with the install.

Happy to help however I can. crzforum.com is also an AMAZING resource; about the best on the internet for CRZ info.

> The Metra 70-1730 Wire Harness I bought seems to have a subwoffer RCA but the instructions say not to use it even though my CRZ has a factory sub. Do I really not need to hook up the sub RCA?

Correct. The CRZ's sub is wired into the rear channel. The front channel is two speakers and two tweeters, the rear is two speakers and the sub.

> I bought a Maestro ADS-MSW for my steering wheel controls. What does the RR give you over the ADS-MSW? Just gauge information?

Just gauges AFAIK.

> The Maestro instructions say I need to splice into a green wire connected to the bluetooth HFL module behind my glovebox in order to use my steering wheel call and end call buttons. Did you do that? If so how difficult was it?

Yes. Very easy. You need to remove the panel under the glove box. It has clips at the top and tabs sit in slots at the back. Disconnect the floor light and put it aside. The HFL is between the passenger footwell and the outer shell of the car, toward the glove box. Disconnect the harness and tap the green wire. I'm using these for all the taps I did in the car. They are VERY easy, solderless and making great connections. Can't recommend them enough.

Also, make sure you have a dumb little grabber tool, like this. I bought mine at Home Depot for $2 while getting butt connectors and it made routing the wire for the HFL a breeze.

>Where did you place the Kenwood microphone in your CRZ?

If you look at the picture, you can see the Kenwood mic below my radio. The factory mic cannot be reused without great effort, and if you do wire it up it has no noise cancelling and sounds like shit. So don't.

You'll also notice a USB plug dangling down at the factory location. The factory USB can't be reused, and I didn't want to have the Kenwood USB line that is hard wired to the unit fished through anything, so here's what I did: I pulled the factory USB cable and its little grommet into the dash and zip tied it off so it doesn't bang around. Then, I ran a 3' Monoprice USB male/female extender cable through the hole the factory USB goes through and zip tied it secure inside the dash. This way, if it ever wears out I replace a $2 cable and not my $500 radio. This also has the benefit of making installation/removal of the radio really easy, which is already coming in handy as I prep to install a backup camera.

>How did you do the wiring? I've never soldered anything before and am thinking about buying some Posi-Twists and Posi-Taps to do all of this.

Positwists and taps are AWESOME, but they're also expensive. I'd recommend you pick up some 20 awg butt connectors or crimp caps (whichever) and a wire stripper/crimper tool just because they're cheap.

Here's what I did: I wired up my radio harness and anything else that was fairly mobile with butt connectors at my desk, making sure to tape off any wires I wasn't using so they were out of my way. Then, I saved my Posi connectors for the connections that HAVE to be made in the car (OBD2, the HFL cable, the ground wires)

>About the DDX9702S: How responsive is the touchscreen? I'm weary about the resistive screen but couldn't justify the $200+ to upgrade to the DDX9903S with capacitive screen.

It's great. It's obviously not a cap touch screen, but it's also not a Palm Pilot. It's responsive enough, precise enough, and all around "good enough" that I wouldn't spend the extra $200 either.

One more tip: When you're wiring this up, wire the parking brake sensor wire into your grounds. Do that and you can watch video while driving.