Get Steve Becthel's book Logical Progression: Using Nonlinear Periodization for Year-Round Climbing Performance https://www.amazon.com/dp/1544119534/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GW7UAb0QSJ4JG

Its what made the most sense.

Lastly, the NUMBER ONE rule in designing a training program (especially in the beginning) is to keep it simple. A program will not mean anything if you don't stick to it because it was too hard to follow, too strict, etc. Keep it simple.

I would make the days at your normal gym, the more "strength" oriented ones, after the most consecutive rest days.

You're basically describing a less structured conjugate training plan. It might be worth reading Steve Bechtel's latest book:
https://www.amazon.com/Logical-Progression-Periodization-Year-Round-Performance/dp/1544119534/ref=pd_zg_rss_ts_b_68140_5

It sounds like you would be better suited to a non linear program, as you can continue to climb outdoors and get stronger/better as well.

https://www.amazon.com/Logical-Progression-Periodization-Year-Round-Performance/dp/1544119534

> Why isn't climbing the best training for climbing?

You get stronger at a particular workout by incrementally increasing the intensity/weight/volume of the workout. This is also known as "progressive overload." The reason why "just climbing" isn't the best training for climbing is because it tends to be too sporadic and varied to guarantee consistent progressive overload. That's why you see a lot of people on these subreddits doing things like hangboarding and weight lifting because the intensity/weight/volume is easily quantifiable, making progressive overload possible.

In Steve Bechtel's new book, Logical Progression, he suggests a few ways of quantifying your climbing sessions so that you can increase the intensity of them from session to session in such a way that you improve your strength, strength endurance, or endurance. Check it out for some good tips.

Can I get some of you more experienced boulderers to cast your eyes over my new training plan?

Context

I *finally* reached the end of a 12-week cut, having dropped 7.2kg. Now I plan to bump my calories back up to maintenance and take advantage of the extra energy and improved body composition.

I've been bouldering for ~2.5 years total, going 3x per week for the last 6 months. I mostly climb in the gym (V4/V6) but would like to get outdoors a bit more as the weather improves.

The Plan

I want to improve my skill and strength for bouldering. I'm going to continue climbing 3x a week but give each session a different focus as suggested in Steve Bechtel's book, Logical Progression. I also really enjoy lifting, so I'm going to follow Jim Wendler's 5/3/1 Building the Monolith, which is essentially the big four lifts with a few accessories – nothing too crazy. Finally, I'm going to add a hangboard session each week. I've never really trained on the hangboard, so I've picked a very simple beginners protocol to do once a week and see how it goes.

So my week will look like this:

Monday – Gym

5/3/1 Building the Monolith (BtM) squat and OHP

Tuesday – Climbing: strength endurance intervals

Climb 1 route at onsight level, rest 2 minutes. Repeat this 6 times then rest for 5 minutes. Then repeat the whole thing two more times.

Wednesday – Gym

5/3/1 BtM deadlift and bench

Thursday – Climbing: endurance intervals + hangboard

Lower intensity but more volume than Tuesday. Climb 1 route ~1-2 grades below onsight, rest one minute. Repeat this 12 times then rest for 5 minutes. Then repeat the whole thing two more times.

Hangboard protocol is 5s on 25s off, 10s on 20s off, 15s on 15s off. Repeat four times.

Friday – Gym

5/3/1 BtM squat and OHP

Saturday – Cardio

Ride my bicycle and relax!

Sunday – Climbing: limit bouldering

Four routes at 1-2 grades *above* onsight level, spending roughly 20 minutes on each.

https://www.amazon.com/Logical-Progression-Periodization-Year-Round-Performance/dp/1544119534


You might want to check this book out before you hangboard for a month straight and lose your skill set.