here are tips i can add to the pile; get an accurate remote thermostat or humidistat for your window A/C units.

http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

thermostats built into most A/C units are cheap, inaccurate and cycle your unit on/off unnecessarily.

what i do is plug an A/C rated appliance extension cord into this thermostat, then my A/C into the extension cord so the distance between the A/C and the thermostat is now across the room. this separate thermostat helps keep your A/C unit from cycling too much by moderating the temperature where you actually are in the room.

when you plug your A/C into this thermostate, set the A/C thermostate on lowest and fan on always. that way when the remote thermostate goes on the A/C will always be on Cool+Fan no matter what the temperature is.

some new A/C units have temperature sensing thermostat built into the remote control that you keep accross the room from the A/C unit window, so look for this feature when you are buying a new window unit as it should help you be more comfortable at higher ambient temperatures without your A/C cycling too much;

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0036WTWCQ (i do not own this A/C, i just link it as an example)

.

if you really want to save money on A/C, you could set your unit to go on/off based on HUMIDITY, not temperature. to do that you will need to buy (and apply the same way as the above a remote thermostat);

http://www.amazon.com/DAYTON-1UHG2-Dehumidifier-Control-Plug/dp/B001OLVNU0

so when the room Humidity gets uncomfortably above 50%, only then will you let the A/C kick on more for it's dehumidification ability, then it's cooling power. once the air is lower in humidity you should be fine with nothing more than a box fan to circulate air against your skin for cooling.

.

if you live in a dry heat zone, combine a fan with a evaporative wick humidifier. as the water evaporates it takes heat energy out of the fan blown air and moderately cools the room. the added humidity will also make you feel more comfortable in the dry air. this approach is commonly known as a desert cooler. evaporative wicks can last all season if you use a capful of bacteriostatic solution in the water. to clean a wick, simply allow it to run dry for a few hours.

http://www.amazon.com/821-000-Digital-Control-Evaporative-Humidifier/dp/B0000D8EJZ

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

Put a thermostat outlet switch like this in your tent and plug the AC unit into it.

Make sure whatever sort of thermostat switch you use is able to handle the wattage of your AC unit.

Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XM1RzbEZRFSFN

Edit: this link is just an example. Not something I have personally used. The next comment links to what looks like a better unit.

Go to your local used appliance store, or Habitat for Humanity, and find the smallest refrigerator you can find. Think dorm room size, if possible.

Get a hole saw and drill two four inch holes in the sides; one high on the right side, and the other low on the left side. Over the lower hole screw one of these:

https://www.radioshack.com/products/radioshack-120vac-4-fan?variant=5717368453

The other hole gets one of these screwed to the outside:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/4-in-x-4-in-PVC-DWV-Closet-Flange-C4851HD4/100345759

Now buy a few pieces of 4" PVC. Straight, elbows, anything you think would be good to direct the air to the area the plants are sitting. Since cold air falls, perhaps run it to the roof of the enclosure over the plant stands.

Now turn it on. In a few minutes you should feel cool air falling gently over the open rack shelving that your plants will sit on.

Now you need to control it. Buy one or two of these:

http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

Plug the small fridge into one outlet, and the fan into the other, if you want them separate. Turn the internal thermostat on the fridge to the lowest setting you can. It will stay there 'till the end of time. It will not be needed to control the temps. The outlet controller will do that.

Finished. Total cost: maybe $100 to $150 USD, depending on what kind of bargain you drive for the little fridge. And you can use it for a second duty. It will keep your drinks cold while you are puttering amongst the greenery.

If you are looking for a not so smart but reliable thermostat switch, I recently got one of these and have been reliable: Lux WIN100 Automatic Heating & Cooling 5-2 Day Programmable Outlet Thermostat, Compatible with Portable A/C, Fans, and Space Heaters https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bAIXDbYAV1WBB

This is kind of ghetto, but i use something like this. I run an extension cable into my fridge, then plug that into the extension cord (which is inside the fridge), then plug the fridge into that thing. Once the temp goes over what i set, it turns on the fridge until the temp is acceptible - so if you're looking to add a heating aspect to it i'd recommend another avenue. There are love controllers, PIDs, and some greenhouse stores have other types of temp controllers like the style i use but have an outlet for heat and an outlet for cooling.

It looks like a monster but it's functional... The black cable is the fridge's plug, which is plugged into the controller, which is plugged into the blue extension cord.

You're main electrical draws are going to be your major appliances then lighting. Though there isn't really one thing you can do to see a huge decrease in power consumption doing a few things together would be noticeable.

• Turning the temp of you're fridge/freezer up a degree or two always helps, obviously don't go to high or that defeats the purpose.
  
  
• Keeping your blinds drawn, or getting semi transparent blinds, to block out the sun and keep your apartment cooler will help reduce your AC consumption by a lot, which is easily your largest draw during the summer.
  
  
• Using the timer on your AC can actually see a huge improvement, set your AC to turn off about 1/2 way or 3/4 of the way through the night depending on how warm it is out side. If your AC doesn't have this feature you can always pick up something along these lines.
  
  
• Obviously use CFL bulbs, people often complain about CFL bulbs but I think that's just out of misinformation. Unlike Incandescent bulbs there is a HUGE difference between each CFL brand and even bulbs within the same brand. If you're intrested I can go into further detail on this as there is probably a paragraph or two of information.
  
  
• Look into residential rebate programs from your power provider for anything energy efficient. In order to receive a power generation license in the US your provider must have a program in place to reduce their costumers power consumption by 1% annually. They usually do this by offering rebates on energy efficient items. On CFL bulbs this can be a $1-$4 depending on the area, but on larger appliances, such as an energy efficient window ac (or for home owners furnaces and water heaters) the rebates can become pretty substantial.
  
  
• Make sure all of your electronics actually turn off when they're off. For example if you hit the power button once on the Nintendo Wii it just hibernation mode which cuts the power consumption from 18watts to 10watts (not even a 50% reduction!) where as holding the power button turns the unit off and it will only draw 1 watt. You pretty much have to google your electronics to figure this one out. The other fun way (and is useful in other situations as well) is to pick up a Kill-o-watt. These nifty little guys will show you the power draw of whatever is plugged into it, I usually have mine plugged into my fridge or my power strip for my entertainment center. You could plug in your entertainment center power strip and reset the meter before you go to bed to see how much power everything is drawing when you're not using it, you will be surprised!
  
  
• Finally the biggest and hardest one, behavior modification. The biggest waste of power in the world is power not being utilized. I once surveyed a site that had multiple buildings, one of which was vacant. The site didn't realize the lights were coming on in the vacant building because of a timer and had spent $15,000 a year for the last 4 years lighting up an empty building. Make sure to turn off the lights when you're done, take the milk out of the fridge then SHUT the fridge, turn off your electronics when you're are done (or at least hibernate them). These things are the hardest to do but once the habit is formed it won't be an issue.
  
  Off the top of my head that's what I got! If I think of other things I will add them! Also I apologize if some of my numbers are off, I've been out of the industry for a few years now.

This works best if you have great insulation and double-pane windows. We don't...so supercooling just made us cold while it ran, hot while it didn't, and jacked a "normal" $300/mo APS bill to $450+.

That was three years ago. I bought a window mount swamp cooler (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Bonaire-Durango-4-500-CFM-3-Speed-Window-Evaporative-Cooler-6280030/204679889) plus a plugin thermostat (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/), plumbed it with black 1/4" irrigation tubing, and haven't looked back since. We now only run the AC the last two weeks of July and all of August. 11/10 with rice, highly recommend.

If I understand you correctly, I think you want something like this

Find a basic non electronic one.

Oil filled heaters are brilliant BUT the built in thermostats don't work. They can't as they are beside the heat source. Use something like this rated for at least as many watts as your heater is rated for:

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

You can't do this with an electronic model as they will reset, but if you get something like this you can control the thermostat properly. Don't plug it into an outside wall that has poor insulation or you will loose accuracy.

I want one of these:

https://m.lowes.com/pd/GE-20-2-cu-ft-Frost-Free-Upright-Freezer-White/50343450

Hooked up to one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E7NYY8/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The thermostat would have to be mounted inside the freezer to keep internal temperature at whatever is ideal for the plants. Most upright freezers even come with a lock on the door!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8/ref=wms_ohs_product?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I already had a few pieces around, but here is my estimate:

• Primary = 13
  
• Stopper = 1.50
  
• Tube = already had it. Can't imagine it's over 10
  
• Themostat = 35 plus shipping. Amazon link .
  
• Desk Fan = 19
  
• Tall Boy = 3 for 3
  
  I actually had the wine cooler from the early 2000's. I worked backroom at Target, and it went on clearance, but they didn't move it to the floor. It kept dropping in price as it was on clearance longer and longer until it was $20. Grabbed it, and have used it as a minifridge since.
  
  A quick look at craigslist looks like you can pick on like mine up for 150-200. The glass front is nice. If you just want a minifride, looks like they're 50-100.

Probably wrong sub but one of these would work for you
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/

I just googled "plug thermostat" and this was the first result. Not sure if your in the US.


https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Automatic-Programmable-Thermostat-Compatible/dp/B000E7NYY8

Here's an idea. Buy a programmable outlet thermostat so the fans only turn on and off when needed. Just set the temperature and let the thermostat do the rest!

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0007Q3RQ6

Looks interesting. I am particularly amazed with the $36 thermostat-based outlet control module that amazon recommended at the same time as looking at the AirKing.
http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

Due to the rules of house power outlets all space heaters are created pretty much equal as far as heat output. I have this little guy and quite like it.

I also got one of these to plug it in to so that it would have my room warm for me when I got home from work, but not waste power all day or while I sleep.

I have a shelf in my basement that I put a door on. I covered the walls of it in styrafoam and added an outlet thermostat. To this I plugged in a heater.

Keeps the wort fermenting at just the right temp all winter. Summertime is a crapshoot, but my basement usually stays under 70 even without AC. With AC it works just like the winter since ambient is about 65.

Mine holds two fermenting buckets at a time. I'm sure you could make a simple wooden box and do the same thing.

I think the IR blaster is more error prone than a thermostat power plug. I would just wire the power plug in series with another zigbee power plug that smart things can turn off if the door has been open for more than 5 minutes.

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

The AC will only run if the door is closed and the room is too warm.

I've used the small oil filled heaters with a plugin thermostat for when it gets way too cold like these

http://www.amazon.com/Homebasix-CYPB-7-Filled-Radiator-Watts/dp/B001GDIXVI/

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8

For those who are super lazy.

Here is my outdoor setup. I no longer have a bucket, so this is what i use in my box now.

If temp falls below 62- then my heater kicks on and goes til about 82
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Comfort-Zone-5-120-BTU-Multi-Purpose-Ceramic-Heater-Black-CZ442WM/21899614

At 78 my fan turns on and i have is set lower to be less loud. So the heater will turn off while the fan is on exchanging my air out. Once its below 78 the fan turns off and we wait til the heater kicks on again. But the HPS puts off enough to keep it warm usually


http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1417395131&sr=8-13&keywords=temperature+controller

http://www.amazon.com/VenTech-VTSPEED-Variable-Router-Controller/dp/B00EVYGPJQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417395084&sr=8-2&keywords=inline+fan+controller

I was going to suggest that first but didn't know if you wanted the cost of running a wall unit. A new, efficient little 5000btu unit shouldn't cost too much to run though.

Something like this though would allow you to set it to only run once it's reached a certain temperature and shut back off when your desired temperature is reached. https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

Oh I didn't realize it plugs in
You want this or something like it. Just plug that into your outlet, plug your wireless switch into that. It will make it so that the switch will not operate or get power until the temperature drops to whatever value you enter.

Hopefully that works for you as it will be entirely plug and play and take less than 5 minutes to set up.

I used one of these when I used to do Bitcoin mining:

http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_1

If the room got too hot, it would shut everything down. It could be used for a overheat panic switch.

I was running this LG ACoutside of a 5x5x8 tent and it kept it plenty cool enough. It comes with some in window mounts and a exhaust duct. I had to do some clever rigging on the front in to some flexible ducting and ran that inside the tent to a diffuser. To control the temperature I ran a power cord to this thing and put that inside the tent. I never really found the best place to put it I just kind of had it hanging in the middle. I then had to run the AC's power cord inside the tent to connect to the temperature controller. It all worked very well when I needed it ! I do wish the temp controller had a 'range' you could put on it. It seemed like the AC was off and on a lot so theres prolly a better way to do that! Anyways good luck! oh and here is some PICTURES of how I ducted the cold air

We use a plug with a thermostat rather than a thermostat on the heater. Works great for us and can also be used with a fan to keep a room cool but shut off when it gets too cold. Have been using it in the kids room for 4 years with nothing but great results.

Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IV8XBb7JHBTQ8

Without seeing your set up I don't know if my suggestion will work but either point your landlord in this direction or just order one yourself:

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1539879277&sr=8-3&keywords=plug+in+thermostat&dpID=313Eh1W4f3L&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Pretty simple and straightforward. I use that exact model for a bread proofing box I made out of it, a cooler, and a light bulb.

Use a themostat...lol

Like this http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

Plug your fan in, when it hits a certain temp it will turn on or off depending on the settings.

You can get theses things that you can hook an A/C unit up to and will turn on at set temperature and turn of at another. http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_sc_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1406648156&sr=8-2-spell&keywords=temperature+pkug

I have this

http://www.amazon.com/WIN100-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/

to use with a window AC with no thermostat. Though typically it runs for 2-3 mins, turns off for 10, on for 2-3 min, etc. , which is a little annoying.

But I mostly just use my window fan pointing at me.

Thanks, man. The fan is a Lasko 4000 Air-Stik Ultra-Slim Oscillating Fan. It's perfect for a micro grow.

My tent sits in near-outdoor conditions, so I have to keep temps up. The smaller device is a Lasko MyHeat Personal Ceramic Heater controlled by a Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat. It pushes enough heat to keep temps as high as ambient +30.

Mine was in the same condition. I rewired the fridge with a thermostat AC controller for around 40 bucks... http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1322063771&sr=8-1

The controller maintains the temp so I'm not as concerned with a bad seal (granted I'm still doing Ales and keepign it around 65 to 70 degrees). I've managed nearly a dozen brews with this and haven't had issues. I expected some condensation but haven't seen any moisture.

Thanks for this. In their FAQ, they say that the hardware already has everything for HomeKit compatibility, but they're just working on the software, which will get pushed out as an update in Q1 2017.

I was hoping for something more in the $40 price range. Just a simple thermometer with IFTTT or HomeKit support. But at least now I know there are options out there for $180. The next closest I found was Mother which is $300. For that price, I might as well get a better a/c unit with a built-in thermostat.

I also discovered this outlet thermostat for only $37. It doesn't connect to HomeKit or IFTTT but it does do exactly what I was wanting. The only problem is that the placement of my outlet is not the ideal place for a temperature probe, because it's buried under my bed where there's not much air flow. If only this had an extension for the temperature probe, so I could place it on the other side of the room, it could work great.

I've got one of these, which might work for your fan control. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8

Cooler (like for camping) for insulation--that forms the box.

Thermostat from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Some short electrical cable, with plug, light fixture, and a 15w light bulb for heat source.

Attach the plug to the short electrical cable, and attach the cable to the light fixture, and screw in the lightbulb.

​

Use a flat extension cord to run power from the wall to the thermostat. Plug your lightbulb into the front of the thermostat, set the thermostat where you want it, put the whole thing into the cooler, and shut the top. If your basement is 62 like mine, it'll take about an hour or two to reach 76 degrees and keeps it there within one degree. Not elegant, but it works damn well!

You can get a thermally controlled outlet like this http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E7NYY8/ref=pd_aw_fbt_201_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=1G823WK9FBQSAKW27YJV

There are cheaper ones but I'm on mobile now

Thought this looked good too https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000E7NYY8/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1497923280&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=programmable+thermostat+outlet&dpPl=1&dpID=313Eh1W4f3L&ref=plSrch

I bought one of these when I lived in NYC. The local energy company even gave a rebate to people buying their officially sponsored device.

Lux WIN100 Heating & Cooling Programmable Outlet Thermostat

It will turn the outlet on and off. My AC would keep its status across power loss, so that when the outlet turned on, the unit would start cooling. You say your unit doesn't do that, so you have a few options:

1. Combine this solution with something that pushes the button on the unit.
   
2. Crack open the electronics within your AC and modify it to maintain status across power loss.
   
3. Buy a new AC and install it in the window above this one.
   
   If it were me, I'd choose option 3. Window units can be very inexpensive, especially if you buy on Craigslist from someone leaving town.

Perhaps you need to buy one of these things? http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

Yeah, that's probably worth looking into for my tropicals at least. It's certainly cheap enough to experiment with.

This seems like a roughly equivalent product, as does this.

I'd just need to get a heater that comes on automatically when it's powered up, which is an easy enough thing to do. The more I think about it, the more I want to try it out.

I'd still like to build the monitoring solution, but something like this should be much more precise and reliable than what I'm currently doing.

I still think if I want to keep my temperate trees at 0C+/-3 I'd probably need something more customized.

I ended up getting this. I found the same info you did, and almost did that, but the safety thing was HUGE for my wife. She was freaking out. And with a Lux outlet thermostat plus the UL rating of that heat mat, the safety factor is pretty high without adding dual thermostats and driving the cost way up. I'll post a pic eventually.

1970s condo, 1350 sqft, 2 bed 1 bath. $160ish average over the winter, $90 in the summer (A/Cs). I'm a ground floor unit so I'm naturally colder, the insulation isn't great and I have a lot of windows that get a lot of wind.

In the winter I plastic over all the small windows and over large windows (like a sliding glass door) I hang a cheap shower curtain (clear) to kill drafts. I open the curtains on sunny days and close them when it starts getting dark or when I get home from work (4pm). I replaced all my land lords thermostats in rooms that I keep them on constantly in with programmable thermostats that I'll take with me when I leave. For my largest room it has two 1100W baseboard heaters, they cost a fortune to run. I have a ceiling fan and a radiant oil space heater that's plugged into this thin g, http://www.amazon.ca/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8 , it saved me $100/month on average last winter. Rooms that I don't use constantly (bathroom) I keep the doors closed too. I don't need them super warm and they won't drop below 15-16 degrees. I turn the heat down to 15c in my bedroom at night and in the office/guest room as well. We use an electric throw blanket that we got at Target for $10 to heat up the bed while we read before sleep and then we turn it off. We add a polar fleece blanket over our duvet in the winter.

We could save more but she works from home quite often (twice a week on average) in the winter so that raises the bill and we have an electric fire place we use if we need to quickly heat the living/dining area up that also raises the bill. Having pets and keep them warm doesn't help either.

won't that blanket suffice? It says it has a thermostat?

Other than that use a line voltage thermostat and a heating pad? Should not take mush to keep it warm.

This

That is overkill - but would work. You could find a baseboard heat one at a rehab shop for 5 bucks.

There are also reptile heaters.

For heat a space heater on a thermostat outlet when the lights are off and possibly also while on. For cooling while lights are on you can run a fan on a thermostat outlet. I have used this one for these purposes in the past. You definitely want a tent or to create a confined growing space so that the environment is more controllable. If you have a 24 hour temp and humidity monitor, like this, that lets you know what’s going on when you are not looking.

These things are pretty sweet to go along with whatever you choose

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1538584787&sr=8-3&keywords=thermometer+outlet

Depends on how much you want to spend but a simple and easy route is a electric heater with a fan hooked to a thermostats like this

https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Automatic-Programmable-Thermostat-Compatible/dp/B000E7NYY8

Check all the panels to see how well they are sealed and consider heat mates for under the pots to keep the roots from getting to cold. You can also put down normal mats to insulate the cold from the brick floor.

https://www.amazon.com/Seedling-Hydroponic-Waterproof-Germination-Propagation/dp/B073RC58JN/ref=asc_df_B073RC58JN/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=216531753338&hvpos=1o2&hvnetw=g&hvrand=5024264790334445552&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=m&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1014966&hvtargid=pla-350506522936&psc=1

You might want to add a small second fan just to make sure you have a good circulation of air moving and don’t get any cold or hot spots.

I don't go as extreme, but at night in the winter, I use cheap electric oil radiators with this thermostat in our bedrooms. In AZ, we have an electric heat pump for heating. The small electric heaters are less efficient, but with them I'm not heating the whole house.

You can get really cheap temperature control. I bought this thing http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1323897861&sr=8-6

Build an insulated enclosure or get a big cooler or something that fits the fermenter. Drop the temperature controller in connected to an extension cord, program it for the temp you want and plug a small lamp into it that also fits in the enclosure. If it is well insulated, a single bulb should do the trick. I've heard that a strand of christmas tree lights will work, too.

Frankly, my enclosure is a cardboard box covered in old sweatshirts. I assume that the fermenting wort is a little warmer than the air inside the box so I set the temp controller to turn the light on at a slightly cooler temp than I want the wort.

I hooked one of these up to an in wall AC unit in a townhome I rented and when I moved out 3 years later the AC unit was still fine despite the thousands of abrupt power cuts. I say do it. Even if it makes the compressor go out after 5 years instead of 10, you’ll have enjoyed those 5 years of your life in more comfort, and you can then buy an AC unit with smarts built in to replace it. https://www.amazon.com/Lux-Automatic-Programmable-Thermostat-Compatible/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=thermostat+plug&qid=1564867841&s=gateway&sr=8-3

edit: I also have used smart switches and those work fine as well, but I found that AC units can be too much for some smart switches. My Wemo Insight handled every AC unit I tried fine, but my Eve smart plug would just shut off when my more powerful unit would turn on full blast.

You might consider getting a space heater of some kind. I would recommend something more than just and old coil heater if it's going to be in the house/bedroom, but at least some kind of electric heating system.

I have one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_awdb_zjgDybY5CKRJF

That I could send you. I had a similar situation, but ended up never using it for my intended setup.

That way, when it gets too cold the outlet thermostat would kick on and turn on your small heater near the wineador.

Might do the trick.

I use this
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E7NYY8/ref=oh_o00_s00_i00_details

It's not very smart, but it's smart enough... basically you can set up 4 time/temperature combinations for weekdays and separate 4 time/temperature combinations for weekends.

Not necessarily. I have 3 sensors through my house, but the common factor is the system itself. In the summer, the upstairs is too hot, in the winter the upstairs is still too cold.

The sensors do help balance it out, but the limitation is that the system is routed poorly and the upstairs has bad circulation.

In this case, my husband and I get a window AC during the summer, and a space heater during the winter.

If your landlord is concerned about fire, get a ceramic heater that does not actually have any live wires. Something like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Lasko-5790-Oscillating-Ceramic-Control/dp/B008UO7I1W/

I also connect it to a thermostat like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8

My husband is notorious for leaving a room without remembering to turn off the space heater, so it's nice to have both a temperature sensor that prevents it from getting too hot or too cold and also timer so that it's not running when I know we aren't going to be in our bedroom anyway.

You can use the thermostat to set your schedule, just as you would with the ecobee or another "smart" thermostat. Plug your AC or heater into it, make sure to turn the device up to HIGH so it doesn't inadvertently shut off with the integrated thermostat before the plug turns it off. And you will have your own climate control :)

http://www.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1348938107&sr=8-3&keywords=120+thermometer

Switch from central heat to space heaters using temperature controllers like this one:

http://smile.amazon.com/Lux-Heating-Cooling-Programmable-Thermostat/dp/B000E7NYY8/