#1,755 in Tools & Home Improvement
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Reddit mentions of MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK
Sentiment score: 3
Reddit mentions: 6
We found 6 Reddit mentions of MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK. Here are the top ones.
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- America's most popular aftermarket table saw splitter for preventing kickback (for thin kerf saw blades only)
- Installs directly to wood or plastic Zero Clearance Inserts (Throatplates)
- Mini-featherboard technology keeps the workpiece against the fence and prevents burning
- Automatic Kerf Keeper prevents reactive wood from binding on the saw blade
- Simple instructions and installation drill guide included
- For use with Plastic or Wood-based Throatplates Only
- Made in the USA. A true MICROJIG Innovation.
Features:
Specs:
| Height | 4 Inches |
| Length | 4 Inches |
| Number of items | 1 |
| Width | 0.5 Inches |
Look for a micro-jig http://www.amazon.com/Micro-Jig-SP-2-TK-Splitter-Steelpro/dp/B00B03PMY0.
Splitters keep the saw kerf from pinching on the blade causing safety issues like kickback, or keep the piece between the blade and fence past the saw cut from riding up the blade and thowing the piece back at you. Some kickbacks can cause your hand to be drawn right into the blade.
Riving knives are even better but not available on some older models.
They are pretty important for safety reasons. They serve two purposes, keeping the cut piece pushed against the fence and keeping the cutoff piece from pinching closed and binding on the blade.
Others have mentioned making a splitter but you can also buy one. Microjig makes what's pretty much standard at this point: https://www.amazon.com/MICRO-JIG-SP-2-TK-SPLITTER-SteelPro/dp/B00B03PMY0
Having a good fence already, a zero clearance insert, and a splitter are pretty much the best things to do in terms of use/safety. The only other recommendation I'd give (looks like you've done this) is to keep the top cleaned and smooth.
They'll definitely work, just be very careful with that old saw. I would suggest you add in a splitter.
MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B03PMY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YOMOBbGMGV4PH
With the fence locked into place a short distance from the saw blade, and with the saw unplugged, take a measuring tape or ruler and measure the distance from one tooth at the front of the blade to the fence, then, rotate the blade so that tooth is now at the back of the blade and measure again. If the measurements are identical then your fence is square. That is the single most important aspect to getting use out of that table saw, aside from it actually running.
My fence was not consistently square so I made one that was. I also replaced the miter gauge with this. I also switched to a link belt. With the amount that I have to shorten the belt, every 3rd full belt that I buy should allow me to make a 4th belt with the leftovers. I have not replaced my pulleys with machined pulleys yet, but I'm not sure that I'll need to. I did also get a PALS kit as a precautionary measure. Leecraft makes some nice zero clearance inserts and Micro Jig makes a splitter insert kit that will help prevent your cuts from binding on the blade.
Aside from that, there are restoration video playlists on Youtube for the 113 series table saws in all their various sub-types.
Thanks, I’ve been looking into this. Anybody have experience with this (MJ SPLITTER SteelPro TK https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00B03PMY0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_bmKyCbBQ5E1XN) product, seems easy to implement
Hell no. Microjig splitter