Reddit mentions of Motul MTL100949 8068HL RBF 600 Factory Line Dot-4 100 Percent Synthetic Racing Brake Fluid-500, 300. ml

this the stuff?


93% 5 star reviews... im sold i guess... thanks

So there could be a sort of things. Remove the cap and release all suction and make sure the rubber is still in good condition. The master cylinder may have an issue but those things are rocks and usually last until a crash. Is the slave cylinder new or stock?

If you haven't flushed it yet then do that first. Doesn't take very long, grab a mighty vac like system and some [brake fluid] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LEYJO4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

Hi! I'm most definitely a modest at this. I did three events in 2015, and took a break in 2016 for a house remodel, and hope to do a few events in 2017. My first instructor was apparently a former IMSA driver and car builder, and his weekend track day car was a '09 GTI because "I can fit all my gear in it." I learned a lot from him during a short period of time.

I'm trying out a Just Track It event at Barber Motorsports Park. I've done a couple of BMW CCA Peachtree Chapter events at Road Atlanta and one NASA event at Carolina Motorsports Park.

http://justtrackit.net/2017-calendar/barber-jan-2017/

Fluid is Motul RBF 600. I did my first event on stock fluid and it most certainly boiled. The Motul fluid has done just fine on the following two events. I've bled between each event, and since it was a year since my last event I did a full flush this time. Motul recommends 1 year regardless with this fluid. I found lots of air bubbles... brakes are a life safety issue, do not skimp on brakes.

https://www.amazon.com/Motul-8068HL-Factory-Percent-Synthetic/dp/B004LEYJO4

Brakes are the weakest link on this car. After destroying some EBC Yellowstuff pads (track/street pads do neither well, apparently), I went for broke with some Hawk DTC-60 pads on the front and they survived one event with no issue. They don't make those pads for the rear, so I'm going to try some Hawk HPS 5.0 pads on the rear, after destroying my supply of EBC Yellowstuff pads there (long story there, but I had enough to last two events, one per set).

I'm still on my stock rotors at 29k miles. The fronts obviously have some wear at this point, so will replace those at some point this year. Stock rotors seem to work just fine, so I'll probably stick with those.

I've missed doing this in 2016. This car does so much better on the track than you would ever expect.

Hi, fellow Shadow Blue owner! What is your pad/rotors/fluid combination?

[RBF 600] (https://www.amazon.com/Motul-8068HL-Factory-Percent-Synthetic/dp/B004LEYJO4/ref=pd_sim_263_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B004LEYJO4&pd_rd_r=KPPARVH7YB9FQB5DQNNB&pd_rd_w=ud8AT&pd_rd_wg=Kn6iE&psc=1&refRID=KPPARVH7YB9FQB5DQNNB) (I recommend unless you are racing)

RBF 660

Is it the lever itself that feels squishy? Can you pull it all the way to the bar? If so, it probably is air in the lines or a leak somewhere.

For fluid, Motul RBF600: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004LEYJO4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

That's the best stuff that's reasonably priced that I've found. Most people I've asked about fluid run it as well.

As for pads, I've had good luck with Stoptech Street Performance, but I got them specifically for their inital cold-bite characteristics (since I'm usually on cold brakes). Don't use that link though, I don't think that's the right part number for the Miata.

But mainly the fluid change is the important part. On my FWD rallycross car it completely solved my fade issue (left foot braking for 1/3 of the lap is really hard on front brakes).