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Reddit reviews on Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

Sentiment score: 59
Reddit mentions: 201

We found 201 Reddit mentions of Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black). Here are the top ones.

ELIMINATING BUZZING NOISE : Eliminating the buzzing noise, caused by ground loops which happens when the audio source and the speaker use the same power source in some car speakers / home stereo systems when using the Bluetooth receiver.WORKING PRINCIPLE : The working principle of this noise isolator is to achieve a clear speech/music by eliminating the current noise in some car speakers / home stereo systems.COMPATIBLE MODELS : Works with any portable device that has 3.5mm audio jacks, for your Car Audio System/Home Stereo, when grounding issues persist. Also used with a Bluetooth Receiver/Bluetooth Hands-free Car Kit in your Car Audio System/Home Stereo.COMPACT AND PORTABLE : Being so mini and light-weight (2.01*0.59*0.59 IN, 0.99 OZ), this little gadget does not take much space and can be easily taken away.NOTE: The Ground Loop Isolator connect to the AUX Jack in car to eliminate noise.You will enjoy good quality sound when use it with Ground Loop Noise isolator.

Found 201 comments on Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black):

u/sageDieu · 26 pointsr/buildapcsales

I just dealt with this issue myself by using a ground loop isolator on the headphone plug part:

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2

This actually just arrived about an hour ago and appears to have solved the problem entirely.

My setup now is BoomPro > headphone/mic splitter, headphone plug goes to this isolator which goes to my Monoprice DAC/Amp, mic plug goes to this little USB adapter which made the mic louder and clearer.

https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00NMXY2MO

I was dealing with some noise and volume issues in the mic, and some noise in the headphones, and these two things have fixed both of those and made the mic sound much better. The ground loop isolator cut the headphone volume by about 20% (just guessing, haven't measured anything) but I had plenty of room to turn up my amp to account for that and still am only at like 60% output volume.

u/erebusdelirium · 16 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

That is exactly what I do. However, it's VERY LIKELY you will get an annoying buzzing sound called a ground loop.


I bought a cheap Ground Loop Isolator to solve it.

u/blackjakals · 8 pointsr/battlestations

That depends on if your studio monitors start buzzing when you plug them in. If so, getting an audio interface with balanced cables may help. If there is no buzzing, then you should be fine just plugging them into your motherboards audio port using a dual XLR or dual TS (or TRS) to 3.5mm cable. If you get buzzing, you could also buy a ground loop isolator. That is what I did and it worked wonders. Here is the link for the isolator if needed:
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

u/taiguy · 7 pointsr/GooglePixel

that sounds like a ground loop within your car.

go pick up an isolator and see if that fixes it.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Ssh.zbAJJHFM7

u/SlendyTheMan · 6 pointsr/iphone

I solved this by buying a Bluetooth to aux for my car. It plugs into my USB charger on my car (I have a car charger to 2 USB port that comes with the device) and I plug the aux from the Bluetooth into the car. My phone auto connects and I can still charge my device. There is no delay, no sound quality loss, it's pretty good!!

SoundBot SB360 Bluetooth 4.0 Car Kit Hands-Free Wireless Talking & Music Streaming Dongle w/ 10W Dual Port 2.1A USB Charger + Magnetic Mounts + Built-in 3.5mm Aux Cable

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_L4gszbA4FYNP0

It was only 20 bucks too!!

With this, I also bought a recommended item in the reviews I read - a ground noise insulator. It goes for 9 bucks too. For my case, I didn't see a difference but you plug the Bluetooth AUX into this, then this into the car.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_l5gszbMKG7BJ5


(PS: I recently got a new car with carplay and still have both of these items. If you'd like, I could ship you these two items I talked about actually! I have no use for them now.)

u/loopasfunk · 6 pointsr/synthesizers

Maybe some grounding issues. I have a similar problem with my op-1 and this does the job Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_JqeCCbQD68W2T
I bought a boss noise suppressor as well but it mostly compresses it but it does the job well for $50

u/yannage · 5 pointsr/OPZuser

I noticed that if I have the gain on the OP-1 from line in anything above 0, it gives feedback noise. I also have been using a noise isolator since I got my OP-Z. I noticed even when plugging into my computer via line-in it buzzes a bit. This has helped a lot.

​

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)

u/leftweet · 5 pointsr/xboxone

I use the 3.5mm jack on my Elite and I also get white noise when plugging in a headphone directly. I got a ground loop isolator (specifically this one) and it fixed the white noise issue. It does seem to make the audio output quieter though and may affect some of the headphones' range, but I'm no audiophile so I haven't noticed anything myself.

u/joelaro · 5 pointsr/OP1users

Ground loop isolator helps. Like this one:
Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_PYJYzbN0G2NCX

u/torgis30 · 5 pointsr/headphones

Does this happen when the laptop is plugged in, on battery, or both?

I have this pretty bad with my desktop rig with my noise canceling headphones, I found that using a ground loop isolator does wonders to eliminate hiss and buzz.

u/RxBrad · 5 pointsr/Nexus6P

You need to buy a ground loop isolator to plug it in. Something like this:

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_qyb5yb6R9BXA1

u/elevatedstations · 5 pointsr/OP1users

Do get one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

Mine was super noisey.. to the point where I was thinking about getting rid of it, but that cleared it right up.

u/masonoli · 4 pointsr/Nexus6P

I've had this issue with my phone as well as a bluetooth device I bought (the one in my car died). What you need is a ground loop noise isolator. This is the one I got and it removed the noise for my bluetooth device and phone. Hope it helps!

u/oj_with_toothpaste · 4 pointsr/buildapc

So my new motherboard has some electrical interference in the rear audio ports only. It’s minor and it happens when I move mouse and the windows around.

Anyway I already went through hours of troubleshooting, I was wondering if something like this would help.

If not, is the “creative sound blaster audigy FX” a decent sound card? It’s a bit more than I want to spend but I just want to make sure this’ll do the job for music, gaming, movies etc.

I have sennheiser hd 280 pro if it matters.

u/lucidyan · 4 pointsr/synthesizers

A lot of noise here. I recommend this thing, that I found in a bunch of reddit threads and it helps me a lot with my OP-1 noise reduction, when I record it directly to my soundcard

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

u/GotMyOrangeCrush · 4 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

Its electrical noise from the alternator.

They make 'noise cancelling' inline USB power filters and in some cases what you need is what's called a ground loop isolator on the 3.5mm stereo aux input.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/

u/MutatedSpleen · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Ground loop isolator.

That's the exact one I picked up for a similar situation. Works pretty well.

u/silvab · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

You have a ground loop problem, get a $10 isolator.

Here's the one I have:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/

People telling you this makes no sense don't realize ("why not just use docked hdmi audio...") that you might prefer undocked play in your living room + big sound, even more so when zelda makes me feel like i'm going deaf while using headphones

u/dpirmann · 3 pointsr/audiorepair

Im pretty sure ground loop isolation is going to be the right answer. EDIT - especially since you say it works fine with headphones

​

Here's another one that works well and is cheap:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/

u/anyones_ghost27 · 3 pointsr/Atlanta

Yep, I have a nifty $20 Bluetooth adapter for my old car and it works very very well. My phone always connects as soon as I turn on the car. I do recommend getting the anti-feedback ground loop noise isolator thingy if you're using an aux port, though.

u/Jeritens · 3 pointsr/piano

A simple way, a solution I am using is connecting the piano headphone audio output to your computer audio input with a male to male audio aux cable https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-3-5mm-Stereo-Audio-Cable/dp/B00NO73MUQ and then set up audio playback in your sound settings https://imgur.com/a/T0Qxbfo.

Now you are able to listen to the piano and computer sound with your default pc audio output. If you set the audio input you used for your piano in discord, your friends can listen to the piano and you can hear their reactions. But because the piano is a different audio input you can't talk to them and you have to switch your audio input back to your mic to talk to them again.

If you get a lot of static noise while the piano is connected it very likely that a ground loop noise isolator will help. (I use a ground loop isolator and I have a roland fp 10. I still get static noise only when the piano is turned off because the power cable is still plugged in. I usually mute the sound in the volume mixer on my pc)

I used this setup to play the audio from my nintendo switch through the pc and listen to both my pc sound(mainly discord while playing smash) and switch sound on my headphones.

To go even further you can install a virtual audio cable https://www.vb-audio.com/Cable/ and route your mic and piano audio through the same audio line and playback this audio source to listen to the piano through your default audio output. A big drawback I noticed is that the music is very delayed this way and you hear your voice delayed which is messing with your brain a lot.

I hope that helped. I'm sure there are other solutions with audio interfaces, audio mixers or with midi. This is just a cheap solution which works for me.

u/rhinofinger · 3 pointsr/RetroPie

I tried all kinds of things recommended here and in the wiki. Could never get USB audio to work properly or finding settings that made the onboard audio bearable.

Ultimately ended up buying this $8 in-line ground loop noise isolator and I couldn't be happier. It works - no more noise! And no config files to dig through :)

u/deftdrummer · 3 pointsr/GooglePixel

Yep, I have an idea if you're willing to spend $8 to rule it out.

You need to purchase a Ground Loop Noise Isolator which you can then try with each of your various devices.

If none of them exhibit static at that point, then you've determined that indeed there is some faulty grounding or shielding in the components of the phone. At that point it's time for a return to Google if you can under warranty.

If you don't have static with the one pair of headphones that tells me the components are solid in that pair. The other components may be the weak link but you need to rule out the phone first.

The ground loop noise isolator also has self evident uses wherever else you may have this problem. I use one in my car for example.

Good luck.

u/EdmanFTW · 3 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Because the Switch is technically charging while docked, and you have an auxiliary coming out if it, you will get that buzzing sound. Notice that when you undock it, the buzzing sound goes away.

It's the same thing that some people go through when charging their phones in a car at the same time they have an aux plugged in, they get the buzzing sound(only in certain cars).

Your best bet, if you don't mind paying, is to get a Ground Loop Noise Islolator. Here is one that I found. Unfortunately, your speaker needs to have an aux input or this will be useless to you :/. I'm looking to buy this later this week, as my monitor doesn't have speakers, but I do have speakers on my desk that have an aux input. Good Luck!!!

u/servedconserved · 3 pointsr/intelnuc

You can get an inexpensive audio noise isolation transformer, like this one, I had noise from my laptop to my stereo and the audio isolation transformer eliminated all of it. It's a classic ground loop issue that causes the noise.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_10?crid=2BS28TS3ILMCS&keywords=audio+isolation+transformer&qid=1571058517&sprefix=audio+isolation%2Caps%2C199&sr=8-10

u/HungryhippoSalad · 3 pointsr/headphones

I've been trying to get a similar solution but between two PC's. I'm not a streamer, I just want to listen to a feed both and adjust the volume as needed. I bought a Rolls MiniMixer II which does the job.

​

I use Line out 3.5 to RCA into the a pair of line ins into the MiniMixer - then from the line out into a headphone amp to push the feed into my headphones. I put a ground loop isolator to minimize hiss.

​

I've been happy so far, but I'm wondering if there is a better solution.

u/miatamanreturns · 3 pointsr/mazda3

https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Hands-Free-Bluetooth-CarAudio-Connect/dp/B004CLYJ2I

I used this guy for that and it was great. I stuck the little puck over the cigarette lighter hole and ran the wiring under the console and up into the storage compartment to connect to the 12V and aux there. You'll need a ground loop isolator as well otherwise as you RWC you'll hear alternator whine, something like

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/

u/kevster0522 · 3 pointsr/Saturn_Cars

It's called a ground loop and happens on many vehicles. Easiest fix is to use a ground loop isolator like this one.

u/See-Phor · 3 pointsr/battlestations

They are the Eris E5 and they don't have a hiss problem. They used to buzz when I plugged them straight into my motherboard with a RCA to 3.5mm cable without a ground loop isolator. Now I have them go into a schiit modi 2 and have no problems. If you want to use your motherboard, I recommend using a group loop isolator like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=pd_lpo_vtph_263_bs_t_1/143-9505965-6019445?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=ZMDDYNKJQDPAEJ0408G9

u/jmc0889 · 3 pointsr/xboxone

This fixed my mic buzzing issue when I had my remote plugged in so maybe it could help you. So long as your headset is a 3.5mm one of course.

u/Bakenators · 3 pointsr/letsplay

This is probably what's commonly known as ground loop. This is caused by electricity going in a loop within your setup. Crossing wires such as power wires and speaker wires, coming in and our of your wall socket, computer, and everything plugged in together, will cause this to happen and does not necessarily persist only within your blue yeti, especially because you mute it and it still happens. You may have introduced new wires or devices that brought more electricity into the mix, causing this ground loop. Best thing to do would be to unplug devices individually from your setup until it disappears, and then you'll know the culprit. This can be fixed by using a ground loop isolator (hum/noise isolator), or by painstakingly going through your setup to find the culprit, keeping wires as uncrossed as possible, and with a lot of luck.

I personally solved mine with 3 of these and possibly even this if it applies to you. Good luck

u/OverlookeDEnT · 2 pointsr/AverMedia

no worries. I will say that this "issue" made me rethink my approach and I ended up routing all my outputs (via 3.5mm outs and 1 optical audio out) with voicemeeter and hooked them up to the streaming PC individually and was able to assign all audio as separate sources (discord, game & my mic) and it made for easier on the fly adjustments on streamlabs.

Good luck! if you do need the noise loop isolator, I bought 2 of these and they worked flawlessly. I'd try without it first as maybe you'll get lucky and your line-in to line-out (pc to pc) might not have any noise issues.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/stacker55 · 2 pointsr/techsupport

ground loop buzz. usually this will solve it

u/Dingusbartlenut · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Others have suggested this one in another thread. I also get that darn humming as well, but it's only when my switch is charging.

u/Copernican · 2 pointsr/ZReviews

If you get the vmoda you may want to consider also getting a ground loop adapter like this: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

The mic caused some static for me. This solved the issue.

u/TemptedTemplar · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

No. BUT the headphone jack still works while docked. So you can plug speakers or headphones in there.

It's possible you may run into electrical interference when using powered speakers. So you just need a cheap ground loop isolator plugged into the system and plug your speakers into that.

u/Peejaye · 2 pointsr/headphones

Did you try getting a ground loop isolator?

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

I use one of these and I've never had any issues with noise. it will lower the volume a bit though.

u/goodhur · 2 pointsr/raspberry_pi

I just used this with a raspberry pi zero w
https://github.com/BaReinhard/Super-Simple-Raspberry-Pi-Audio-Receiver-Install

I chose to not use it. It was a cool idea to have airplay, bluetooth was thinking adding a Logitech media server and player would be cooler. My problem with it was the on board wifi and Bluetooth didn't play well together stuttering and connectivity issues. Using a edimax dongle an disabling internal wifi made it work fine. However it also required USB sound or dac hat for audio out. I considered using my pi 3 but this was getting too large for where I wanted to put it. I ended up picking up a USB Bluetooth audio reciever instead called an ec502 (no internal battery)

The devs work is great and I will box the zero up to use in the house. BTW I highly recommend making an IMG of the SD card after you get it up and running. SD cards can fail or corrupt if simply turned off with the ignition.

Edit also you if you get engine whine for either the pi or a Bluetooth recieved get one of these

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_crYXzbH5NNZPZ

u/mrkhiggz · 2 pointsr/Chromecast

I had a similar issue when connecting my Nintendo Switch to my PC monitor where there was an odd static/buzzing noise. I used a ground loop isolator which fixed it. You may also try using the Line-In audio port of your PC if it has one as well and see if that fixes anything.

u/Russ916 · 2 pointsr/Lyft

If your playing music through an aux cord while having the AMP charging it will make a hissing static noise. I've had that whenever I charged my phone and had my aux cord in at the same time I solved that issue a while back by buying a ground loop noise isolator off Amazon. Here's a link to the one I bought Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable.

u/Gawlf85 · 2 pointsr/NintendoSwitch

Sounds like bad ground isolation. You either need a better 3.5 cable, or an isolator like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

u/Nixflyn · 2 pointsr/Android

We're pretty close to AptX HD car adapters being a reality, so I'd say wait a bit. If you must have one now, there are quite a few regular AptX ones on the market. Just look for one that has a USB type A plug rather than a built in car charger plug. Much better to use your own charger in the car to get fast charge, more than 1 slot, etc.

Something like this. This specific ones comes with a 3 slot charger, which I guess is cool if you don't care about fast charging. My car has 2 power plugs so it'd be great for me and leave room to hook up a dashcam using one of the other slots on the charger, and use my other plug for my phone fast charger.

But still, always get a ground loop isolator. They're usually under $10 and completely eliminate electronic whine. Like this.

u/KnightMichael · 2 pointsr/audio

>Shouldn't wireless audio be noise free? I figure that it should be immune to noise since the audio is digital.

No! You might wanna google that... TL;DR: Wireless=Interference=Noise

And no, you don't need a mixer board. Since i'm assuming you're using a pc/mac, an external sound card will do.
You might wanna troubleshoot first before making any kind of purchase. You can start by plugin the monitors in different sockets around the house, or taking the monitors to a friends house and see if the noise persists. If it does, this might help: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=lp_10981591_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1500471154&sr=1-1

My recommendation would be an external soundcard with balanced outputs (~$150-$200)

u/ThePandaGalaxy · 2 pointsr/ElgatoGaming

If there is an amount of static being picked up, I would recommend buying a ground loop isolator. This is what I have for my setup: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

u/thewatermellon · 2 pointsr/headphones

You might be able to get a cheap ground loop isolator on Amazon that would fix the issue, like this

u/Roppmaster · 2 pointsr/headphones

>So, it should look like this?

Yes.

>My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?

The speakers should mute when the line out is used.

>Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?

You shouldn't need that.

u/Lumbergo · 2 pointsr/orlando

Car Charger, Maxboost 4.8A/24W 2 USB Smart Port Charger [Black] $7.99

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ISGCAJM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) $9.69

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bluetooth Adapter Receiver,URANT Car Kit Mini USB Wireless Audio Adapter Bluetooth Music Receiver & Adapter Home/Car Phone iPhone Stereo Speakers Headphones Car (AUX in) Music Sound System $10.97

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07LFWM8G9/ref=dp_prsubs_1

​

had this set up for years until I got a car that had a bluetooth stereo. quality was pretty good all things considered - the ground loop Isolator helped tremendously.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/MagicArena

So I solved the problem but I have no idea why it started. I think MTG had it the worst so that is why I started to notice it. I bought a ground loop to put in between my speakers and PC. Completely fixed the problem.

It is cheap enough to try out if you have that noise.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_Gj7ZZs9BKFZ8h

u/crispy91 · 2 pointsr/diyaudio

I used this one so it'll all fit in the center consol.

u/neverwhere616 · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

I have 3 boutiques on a hub, I use these to eliminate noise. They work perfectly.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wlV6BbMD2CMZ8

u/carlmmii · 2 pointsr/Twitch

You either need a ground loop isolator, or a way to capture the audio from the HDMI feed.

u/jtking51 · 2 pointsr/AstroGaming

You want the USB and optical cable from the mixamp to go to your Xbox. Configure the mixamp first with the mixamp plugged in via USB to the PC and make it so the stream port only outputs the party chat.

Once configure plug the USB back into the Xbox. Then you want a cable going from the headphone or out audio port on your PC into the aux port on the mixamp.

This will give you Xbox audio and party chat output to your capture card while also allowing you to hear PC audio.

You may have to get a ground loop isolator for the aux cable though as you may get a humming noise Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/mr_mooses · 2 pointsr/MINI

I HAVE THE SOLUTION


https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542998101&sr=8-3&keywords=ground+loop+isolator


2005 cooper s, r53, 70k miles.
Replaced my oem aux cable, with another oem (through from ebay) because my original one developed a short and would cut left audio out completely, super annoying.


I unplugged the old, plugged in the new and it showed up just fine. Tested it with music and all good. Put everything back together and drove to cumbys and it worked. Next morning, start navigation and music all good, then go to plug my phone into power and the aux disconnects. I almost always have my phone plugged in when in the car, so the aux connection was really almost never on. searched around on nam, or asked fbook forum and discovered someone else who had similar problem with the aux magically disappearing.


Something with the ground for the radio and the cig lighter being on the same circuit, or idk. But i tested it again knowing what to look for and yeah, everytime i plugged my phone into power (not just the cig lighter, but the plug into my phone) the aux would disappear from the radio options.


adding a ground loop isolator to the aux cable completely fixed it for me.

u/delightfulmistake · 2 pointsr/pcmasterrace

Analog jacks almost always have some noise, especially if the gain (master volume) is turned all the way up on the computer. Try some USB or Bluetooth headphones, you'll never go back.

If you have to stick with analog headphones, you might consider a ground loop isolator.
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1497811812&sr=8-3&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

u/Monkeyfeng · 2 pointsr/GalaxyS8

Get this:

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_IPTqzbDVJSRER

I got it for my car to get rid of the static

u/hofnbricl · 2 pointsr/Moto_Z

Hey, I've had the same problem with this phone and others. If I use the aux out on the dock without power I get fine sound, but when I plug it in the quality drops. If I charge with the port on the phone the audio is better. Apparently, a ground loop isolater can fix the issue, but I haven't tried. If you use the dock a lot, it might be worth it to try the isolater.

u/TimeRocker · 2 pointsr/Twitch

You could try using a ground loop maybe. I had a weird static sound with my previous audio setup and this fixed it for me - https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

u/NachosConCarne · 2 pointsr/AstroGaming

A ground loop isolator should be able to fix that for you. Just plug it in between the aux connection and your PC.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zGQDDb98BYBZN

u/Azimalicous · 2 pointsr/buildapc

I believe you need feedback loop isolation. I had to use this in my car with a USB powered 3.5 Bluetooth audio dongle to enable wireless music in my car. I was getting alternator whine through my speakers until i used this device.


http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2


I would also try to plug in the USB on the speakers to a USB ac outlet and see if you get the same feedback. It would be a good way to know wihtout having to buy something (assuming you already have an AC USB adapter).

u/Umlautica · 2 pointsr/audiophile

First, you probably don't need the gain set to 10 on the monitors. Try reducing it to 0, set the PC to 100% and then slowly increase the gain on the monitors to about as loud as you would ever want it. This helps attenuate any noise induced into the signal picked up along the way.

Next, try plugging the monitors into the same power strip as the PC to reduce any ground potential between the devices.

Finally, if the above did not help enough you will want to isolate the ground between the two devices. The cheapest way to do this safely is with a line level isolator like this. They however have been known to affect the sound quality a bit since they add a cheap transformer in the signal path to block any DC on the line.

u/the_flying_pussyfoot · 2 pointsr/GooglePixel

You can try using a Ground Loop Noise Isolator but YMMV.

It sounds like some sort of interference during calls through the aux cable when in calls.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/

Here's one for an example. It's fairly cheap

u/jm090 · 1 pointr/headphones

I had to buy this item below for my tube amp:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

​

this fixed it instantly. I cannot hear the noise from any of my other amps. Mine seemed to be specifically related to my video card though, and also my house does not have any true grounds, its pretty old.

u/ZeosPantera · 1 pointr/Zeos

You can plug HALF of the boompro into the M3. The microphone section has to be diverted to your soundcard's mic in. If you find there is noise when you do this t is a ground loop issue and you might need to buy one of these and put it in line with the M3's output.

u/Colek1Rewson · 1 pointr/bose

I actually do this in a nice little way. I have my headphones connected to the PC via bluetooth, and use a male to male audio cord to connect my Switch to the line-in port on the motherboard. This allows my PC to read and project the Switch audio as well as Discord simultaneously through the headset.

You may have to tweak some settings on your PC for this to work, and for me I needed a noise isolator as well to get rid of any static background noise.
This is what I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/pegamixels · 1 pointr/wow

I had the same exact problem. The speakers plugged into my sound card would produce this awful coil whine that was terrible while playing WoW or Marvel Heroes. I built a new PC and the sound stopped whenever I used the front headphones jack, but the back still produced this issue.

I bought this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I no longer have the coil whine coming out of my speakers/headphones. Pretty sure any ground loop isolator would work.

u/chhopsky · 1 pointr/Twitch

I recommend NOT using GameCapture to stream. As usual, the tier list goes:

I'm Just Getting Started: OBS Studio
I Want To Do Better: XSplit Personal
Time To Get Serious: Gameshow
Professional: XSplit Premium, Wirecast

XSplit will let you choose to play the audio from the xbox through your PC's main audio output.

Of course, the best way to do this is to route the audio output from your Xbox through the Aux input of an Astro Mixamp, remembering that if they're connected to the same power source you should use a $10 Ground Loop Isolator to avoid a mild buzzing sound. But don't worry, that's just for you and it doesn't come through to the stream.

I'm going to do a 2016 wrapup article detailing all this soon.

u/rjames24000 · 1 pointr/PS4

I have been able to do it and would be happy to share my experience with you to save you the pain of my research...

I am using this sound card that comes with cronusmax which I plug into my ps4
https://shop.cronusmax.com/external-usb-sound-card.html


I have this trss audio splitter plugged into said sound card
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FB8LCQ7/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


There was a ton of ground loop feed back... so i had to get 2 of these plugged into the split mic and headphone ports
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


then plug one end into your computers microphone (ps4 audio out goes into pc mic in)


and the other end.. (ps4 audio in) goes into your pc's audio out...


for control of the audio im using voice meeter and voice mod... My headset is a wireless ps4 platinum headset with the usb plugged into the computer.. and I use a normal physical microphone rather than the platinum headset mic .. I havean old launchpad midi controller used for muting and various audio effects.

u/Raider1284 · 1 pointr/oneplussupport

def sounds like a grounding issue then! I had the same problem with my ceiling speakers.

You can buy devices that kill and solve this grounding feedback problem. This device worked perfectly for me. You place it between your phone and the car stereo system and it should solve your problem.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2

hope this helps!

u/majorjxp · 1 pointr/Lexus

You will want a ground loop isolator.

It will eliminate the car noise.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/

u/jdegraff89 · 1 pointr/e39

You need to get a Ground Loop Noise Isolator.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019393MV2?psc=1&ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title

Thats exactly the one I used in my car when I installed an AUX and found it wouldn't work when the phone was charging. It also kept the stereo in AUX mode when the ignition was shut instead of having to switch back to it everytime.

u/olorin_istar · 1 pointr/infiniti

This is the bluetooth unit
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YPATOEE/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You will also need one of these because when you are powering the bluetooth dongle with that rear cig lighter it will add a ton of static to the sound unless you have this installed.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Ill look for pics on my phone

u/ev3rm0r3 · 1 pointr/diyaudio

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u/5eth · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

If you want to use in game voice chat with your stream hearing all of the audio, you will need a few things:


Splitter - This splitter is the only one I found that correctly splits the Mic line from the Headset line. This will plug directly into the Switch, then you'll plug your headset into the jack with the mic, and the other jack will be a 3.5mm line going into the Elgato.

Ground Loop Isolator - The splitter is going to create an audio loop buzzing noise, you'll need this to isolate that and keep the audio clean. This will go between the splitter and the Elgato.

3.5mm Cable - If you don't already have one, you'll need one of these to link the Switch to the Elgato.

​

That is the only way I was able to use in game voice chat while streaming. Currently I just use Discord to chat through the PC, and send the Switch audio to the PC as well so it all goes to the stream. However, if you want to use in game voice chat you'll need to do the above.

​

u/I_Am_The_Shazbot · 1 pointr/audio

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Its pretty cheap but from what I have read online all ground loop noise isolaters will reduce audio quality.

u/Nerosephiroth · 1 pointr/techsupport

Like all wires, they are susceptible to ground loop interference. The best way to accommodate for this interference is a ground loop isolator. Headphone Ground Loop Isolator

This is to keep buzzing noises from reacting badly with devices that also draw power from your laptop, sound system, or when your Desktop is not properly grounded and you get a similar buzzing. I notice this primarily when I am in my car and hear a horrible buzzing when I plug my phone into the car 12v charge port, but also have the aux cable plugged in. Similar situations can occur when a headphone is placed into an onboard audio jack with the laptop plugged into wall mains.

As per usual this is a simple solution to a specific problem. Your problem may be with a break in the insulation in the headphone cable, inspect for damage, and move devices that generate RF or electrical interference from your headphone cable in general.

u/Schlongathon · 1 pointr/audiophile

Hello,

I recently bought the Micca PB42x and am having some problems that perhaps could be fixed. The speaker which contains the internal amp is making a whisling/whining sound whenever it is on. It doesn't matter if I have audio playing, nor does the volume of the audio affect it. I have it connected via the 3.5mm cable that came with it and the two speakers are joined via the speaker wire that came with it.

My current set-up is not ideal (I will take and upload pictures after work). I think that I might be getting some noise or perhaps there is a ground loop somewhere. I purchased this but I did not notice any noticeable difference, not even a little bit. Maybe the ground loop isolator I bought is faulty or I attempted to fix something that wasn't the problem.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

u/Mullematsch · 1 pointr/Twitch

Follow up to all of this, maybe someone stumbles across this thread eventually.

So the FX send output works, I connected it to my PC with a cable and a buzz box.

It is not mix minus, meaning I have the mic separately and the other output is everything I hear (PC audio + microphone).

Surprising to me was that the FX nob functions as gain for the FX send output. Meaning if I have it at 10 the signal is all distorted and if I have it a 1, I still get a clear output just more quiet.

Currently I have it at 3, that way its the same level as my voice using the stereo output.

This did fix my discord problem which is great.

u/pepcfreak · 1 pointr/Twitch

I ended up getting two of these after some internet searching.

They did the job extremely well.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Obi-Shinobi · 1 pointr/ZReviews

I have the Odac and had the same issue with my A500 but the https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

solved my issue. I was just wondering about the usb powered dacs. Maybe zeos can make a sticky thread on fixes for ground loop in PC audio.

u/Dinotective · 1 pointr/Twitch

Oh! Then you're ready to roll! The set should've come with some set up instructions. The setup should look like this:

Xbox USB and Optical go into the mixamp

Headset connects to mixamp

Stream/aux out goes from the mixamp to your PC's 3.5 audio-in port. You'll be able to add that audio as a source in OBS.

But before you do all this, install the Astro software on your PC so you can program the mixamp. I recommend setting it up so that ONLY chat audio goes through the 3.5 port, not the game audio (game audio will be better quality if you just use the audio from the HDMI/elgato).

Tweaking your sound levels will take some time because (as far as I know) you don't really have a way of monitoring/listening to what your viewers will hear as your streaming. What I did was record myself playing a quick game , joining chat and trying to talk as much as possible, then going back and listening to the recording. Based on what you hear, you tweak your game audio, chat audio and mic audio levels. I had to do this several times before I found a balance I was content with.

One last thing is that if you hear some high pitch interference coming from the 3.5 audio, you'll need a loop ground noise isolator. Here's the one I use:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/LegendaryMood · 1 pointr/Twitch

That mixer was actually the first mixer I bought, too. It started my long, expensive journey into audio hardware specifically for 2 PC streaming setups. I tried many mixers, got frustrated and tried to downscale to just an interface, got frustrated with that and tried Voicemeeter but hated that.

If you're budget is around 200-400$ for the mixer, you can go with a ZED 10 FX. This was a popular mixer, with streamers like Lirik and Waffle using it. Waffle might even still use it. It has the ability to essentially produce 2 output mixes using a technique called mix minus. The mixer as a master mix output and an AUX/FX output. The mixer also has the ability to send inputs to master output or FX output or both - this is what enables this mixer to do the mix minus technique. You're basically abusing the FX output.

Going the mixer route like above will result in needing a lot of cables, "buzz boxes", etc. The ZED is also pretty big and takes up a lot of desk space. It gets messy, but it's all true-analog if that's your goal.

If you don't care about hearing the audio from your stream PC, you can easily just buy a line splitter and split your mic line - one to gaming PC the other to streaming PC. But, I imagine you want to hear the audio from your stream PC, too. You could just use a standard 3.5mm cable from stream PC back to gaming PC and then use software like Voicemeeter to mix them into your headphones. I did this for a bit, but I'm not a fan of Voicemeeter because it kept randomly not working for me.

You could always go the Voicemeeter VBAN route, and just pipe everything over your LAN using their VBAN feature. But for me this seemed to break a lot and just annoyed me. It's neat though and requires no cables or mixing hardware.

In the end, the best thing that I've found and settled on and currently use is just a higher end audio interface that comes with some really great mixing software. The interface I use is the Babyface Pro. Alone, this is just a glorified audio interface, but I also use a Digiface USB which is a digital audio interface. I found these through Lirik, who uses this now.

So, in the end, my setup is as so ...

  1. Babyface Pro plugged into my gaming PC
  2. Digiface USB plugged into streaming PC
  3. Headphones plugged into Babyface Pro

    With this setup, which is essentially just 2 audio interfaces, you can isolate basically any audio device into a recording channel and send it to and from the Digiface / Babyface. I've got channels that only I can hear, channels my stream can hear, mixes of channels, etc. I have my game console on its own channel, etc. It all "just works" and you can have MANY output channels instead of struggling to achieve only two. For example, the Digiface that I use has 66 channels.

    I do also have a Cloudlifter in my chain, but the Babyface Pro is good enough to give gain to my mic (sm7b). I'm tempted to take the Cloudlifter out and free up even more desk space.

    Audio is by far the biggest annoyance when moving to a two PC setup. Hope this helps.
u/Turbosack · 1 pointr/headphones

You could try one of these things to fix the buzz: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019393MV2

u/DaemonSire · 1 pointr/headphones

Why not try a ground loop isolator? Like this: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

Might fix the ground loop problem.

But you should still get sound even if you have ground loop.

u/GloriousEggroll · 1 pointr/linux_gaming

generally you want to use the ac97 audio for the vm, which still has the occasional crackle (not bad, useable/playable), but a better solution is to get a cheap usb sound card, pass it to the vm, and use a 3.5mm audio cable to send the signal from it to the audio line-in(usually colored blue) on your system, then listen to the line-in via loopback on pulseaudio. you may also need a ground loop isolator:

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1527403494&sr=1-1-spons&keywords=3.5mm+noise+filter&psc=1

another note when using the ac97 audio is youll have to install the drivers in compatibility mode as win10 does not have drivers for it

u/msimon7 · 1 pointr/hometheater

good point, was planning on getting some thing like this if that is the case to help defuse.

always open for other suggestions tho... :)

u/bbtehbuild · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Here's what I currently have:


2 JBL 308P MkII - Powered 8" Two-Way Studio Monitors
https://www.amazon.com/JBL-Professional-Monitor-Speaker-308PMKII/dp/B077NHM2K6/


1 UGREEN 3.5mm 1/8" TRS to Dual 6.35mm 1/4" TS Mono Stereo Y-Cable Splitter Cord
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZKM3S4S/


1 Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/


1 Google Chromecast Audio (Black) 

https://www.google.com/chromecast/audio/explore/

​

​

The red dots symbolize want I do not have yet. I'm working on eventually getting:

1 JBL LSR310S 10" Powered Studio Subwoofer

https://www.amazon.com/JBL-LSR310S-Powered-Studio-Subwoofer/dp/B00I08RT3U/

1 Focusrite Scarlett 2i2 Second Generation (2nd Gen) 2-in, 2-out USB Audio Interface

https://www.amazon.com/Focusrite-Scarlett-2i2-Generation-Interface/dp/B01H4W34WW/




​

Note: I have all that I need right now, but know that I may eventually buy a subwoofer for my studio monitors, which would make the setup more complicated. I only need help with adding the subwoofer. How will I do it? Will I need more cords and another ground loop isolator? Do I need an audio interface to add a subwoofer? How will I connect my 2 studio monitors and future subwoofer to my Chromecast Audio, my future audio interface, and a ground loop isolator?

u/freakingwilly · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

It sounds like a ground loop. Does the buzzing/whine get louder as you turn up the volume?

If so, there are a few solutions:

  1. Make sure the PC is properly grounded to the outlet. If you are using a surge protector, make sure the "GROUNDED" light is on (or the "NOT GROUNDED" light is off, depending on the model of surge protector).
  2. Make sure the outlet is properly grounded. There are two ways to determine this. If you have a multimeter, just set the multimeter for 120V read, stick the black probe into the actual prong for the outlet and the red into the ground on the outlet. If the multimeter reads 120V, you're grounded. The other way involves removing the actual outlet from the wall and I won't give the directions for that since I'm not an electrician and I don't want you to die if you screw up.
  3. Make sure the motherboard is properly grounded. Since you built the PC yourself, double check to see that you only installed the necessary standoffs and that you didn't miss any or add any extra ones.

    If none of the above options worked, you'll need to purchase a Ground Loop Isolator. Cheap and they work extremely well.
u/killimaze · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

You might be getting some feedback from an aux input, I had a similar problem when I was running a dual card setup to record and stream at the same time on xbox. Im on PC now and I still use this, it works great!

u/5py0n · 1 pointr/headphones

I do hear a difference between PC and AMP/DAC. Not a massive one, but still. Bigger issue is volume. Even at max volume levels everywhere X2's still sound pretty quiet for me.

​

I'm not sure what is this good for exactly, but what about this thing called Ground Loop Noise Isolator? https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

Is this something that can help here?

u/Erosis · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

You might want to try this isolator or [this one] (https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2). You definitely have some sort of interference, but without looking at every single connection, it is really hard to tell. My motherboard was the culprit and my Asus Xonar external couldn't even deal with it. I ended up getting a completely separate DAC and amp and using optical. However, this isolator will most likely do the job if you don't plan on spending lots on hi-fi equipment in the future.

u/ArkAngel06 · 1 pointr/Android

I recommend one of these. They work great and let you control the music tracks, podcasts, audiobooks from the controller.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RH29CJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_-T2GzbVJHKWSM

And you might need of these if you get a little bit of feedback like me.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_gV2Gzb37VFTSN

u/Crab-Battle · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I'm no expert but here's a few things you could try.

  • If your volume is set high on your speakers and sub try turning it down a bit and using the laptops volume controls instead.

  • try using a different 3.5mm cable or an RCA to 3.5mm cable

  • try connecting it to a phone or another device and see if it still buzzes


  • try plugging it into a different power outlet

  • try a [ground loop isolator] (https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2)

u/Aspirant_Fool · 1 pointr/techsupport

>powered subwoofer

Almost certainly ground loop noise. Something like this between the computer and the receiver should work.

u/part_time_fun · 1 pointr/hackintosh

Get a ground loop isolator from Amazon.

I got this one and this exact problem went away. $9 well spent.

u/BriarRabbit · 1 pointr/DestinyTechSupport

Try picking up a ground loop isolator from amazon. I use this one and it works great Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/numbrmunchr · 1 pointr/essential

I went with these components Bluetooth aux adapter.[Adapter](BlueStream Paplio Bluetooth Handsfree Adapter - Bluetooth Receiver with 3.5mm AUX for High Quality Music / Navigation Streaming and Microphone for Calls (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0765NWJS8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_uyVUAbCWCBS4N) [Ground Loop Isolator](Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf) and a normal quick charger for the phone.

u/Sinpure · 1 pointr/Twitch

Thanks awwsyn. Noise Isolators? Like Ground Hum Eliminators? Did your experience present a similar sound? My incredibly limited experience indicated to me that the ground hum sound (which those helped with) were 50/60hz, based on where you are located. Again, VERY limited experience.

EDIT: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2 these things? Might have to check it out, hadn't seen these ones at my local audio shop.

u/jus13 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Best way is to just plug in an audio cable from your switch into the blue line-in port on your PC. I've been doing this since the switch came out.

You do need a ground loop isolator though, otherwise you only get loud static because of interference coming from the dock.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ground+loop+isolator&qid=1573383821&sr=8-3

u/BlckJesus · 1 pointr/CarAV

You mean like this? From what I’ve found, it seems that’s for use with aux cables. My head unit takes in audio over Bluetooth and sends it out directly over soldered wires connected to my harness. Would this still work the same way?

u/TurtlePrius · 1 pointr/prius

It’s very likely this. Mine did the same thing until I bought an isolator on Amazon: https://smile.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

u/LlamaInATux · 1 pointr/ManjaroLinux

Get a ground loop isolator. I use one in my car, makes a huge difference.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

u/SteggyB · 1 pointr/ElgatoGaming

You hear a loud buzz in the recordings? Sounds like a simple ground loop issue. PS4 is not grounded, PCs are. When you connect an analog cable in between them, it causes a ground loop which causes buzzing.

​

If I'm correct in my assumptions, there are 2 solutions to this:


  1. If your aux cable is connected to your PS4 controller, make sure it's wireless. If the PS4 controller is plugged into the PS4 via USB it will pass through the ground loop.
  2. If wireless controller isn't an option, or the aux cable is plugged into the PS4 itself using some sort of HDMI audio extractor, you'd simply need a ground loop isolator - they're 10 bucks: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ground+loop+isolator&qid=1556058688&s=gateway&sr=8-3
u/JustTryin2H3lp · 1 pointr/PUBGConsole

I use the a50s with built in mix amp and it works fine. You will want to invest 10$ into a ground loop isolator to remove interference.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RKFKDbMWZK8EW

u/gameboy2k · 1 pointr/headphones

My HiFime ES9023 DAC has a slight hiss when I put my volume above 60%. Does anyone have any experiences with a ground loop isolator like this or have any other solutions?

u/DarkS29 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Do you have something similar laying around? Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KdFazbZN47T60

u/2old2care · 1 pointr/audioengineering

You can probably use a ground loop isolator to keep the DC voltage away from your guitar.

Ordinarily, a computer microphone is not designed for a guitar, but can be used with one. Hope this works for you.

u/71678910 · 1 pointr/Cartalk

Try a ground loop isolator between your aux device and the aux port. It can help in a lot of cases. Worked to eliminate a high pitch hum in my line.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_htyQBbSSA2YNQ

u/ilikecorn500 · 1 pointr/prius

I have a 2008 Prius with the same issue, I bought this one and it works wonders.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nHYFzb0R3M04H

u/MUSAFFA1 · 1 pointr/audio

Get a tape player with an A/C adapter. Something like this.

Get a 12v inverter. Something like this.

Using the headphone jack on the tape player, they can connect a 3.5mm AUX cable in their car (assuming they have an AUX input?) and a 3.5mm RCA cable to connect to the home stereo.

*Also, if I may make a suggestion, using the car inverter > a/c adapter > AUX input in the car will undoubtedly create a bit of engine noise through your speakers. Using one of these will eliminate most of that noice.

u/localhostrulez · 1 pointr/gadgets

Yeah, these things. https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ You plug one end into the source, and the other into the car’s input.

I would start without one, but if you start getting a hum from the stereo, add one.

u/LordXemnasXIII · 1 pointr/Twitch

Yes I ended up purchasing this and it cleared everything up.

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

u/Megatf · 1 pointr/Twitch

Some ways to troubleshoot audio issues is ensure that your Focusrite and your streaming PC are plugged into the same power source (Differing power sources can cause line noise), your XLR cable could be shitty, your audio device could be failing, the gain on your Focusrite Scarlett could be too high, the audio device settings could be crappy.

​

One last thing it could be is to go into SLOBS, then right click your microphone setting, then see if there is a GAIN filter that is applied. Once I accidentally added a GAIN filter while messing around to my microphone in SLOBS and it was causing issues. The only filters your microphone should have is a Noise Suppression and a Noise Gate Filter (Or Alternatively a VST filter if you're really savvy).

​

If it's a wiring issue then:

Ground Loop Isolator should solve your problem. It's likely your motherboard audio device causing issues. A 3.5mm input into your PC is getting line noise. Ground Loop Isolators are super cheap, you can order them on Amazon or go to a local audio store and pick one up for <$10.

This is what I use for the inputs into my streaming PC that have this noise you're referring too (Has many ways it can be caused), it eliminates it without any noticeable reduction in audio quality.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=ground+loop+isolator&qid=1557352537&s=gateway&sr=8-3

u/l0n3wanderer · 1 pointr/headphones

Ok, I think I got this.

-

  1. So, I plug PC to Modi, how it is now.
  2. Modi to Mixer via RCA male to male in input 1.
  3. Monitor line out to Mixer via RCA to 3.5mm in input 2.
  4. Magni to Mixer via RCA male to male in output.
  5. Headphones into Magni, how it is now.

    So, it should look like this? My question is, will this play Switch and PS4 audio? They already play through monitor speakers, so is it as easy as putting 3.5mm to RCA in monitor to Mixer or do they each individually need to go to the Mixer?

    Also, would a ground loop like this work if plugged into the monitor and then have the 3.5mm to RCA plugged into this to eliminate buzzing noise?
u/PhantomJulien · 1 pointr/audiophile

Do I just need to buy a group loop isolator to resolve the issue? like this?

So my external monitor (LG monitor), I plan on using it with an Apple TV (which is a black box) and unfortunately there’s no sound coming out anywhere as my monitor has no internal speakers. Therefore I’d have to plug in my apple tv via hdmi to my monitor, then use speakers to the monitor.

I plug my speakers into the wall as well so I’m not sure if that somewhat breaks the loop

EDIT: link

u/Riebeckite · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Interesting... looks like that may be my problem. From what I read briefly it seems like I can fix this with a ground lift or a ground loop isolator. Any thoughts between the two?

u/ElTurbo · 1 pointr/prius

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_USz6BbF15FM4A

u/EmceeSpike · 1 pointr/CarAV

Yeah it's coming from the speakers. I didn't turn the car on, i just had the radio on. I'd turn up the volume without any songs playing and it makes this loud frequency noise, then when I play the music I can still hear it faintly.

It sounds like this :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XVwei9GcqwI

You think using something like this would help?
https://youtu.be/CrKQU-BoVZg?t=196
https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1541647353&sr=8-3&keywords=ground+loop+isolator

u/Schwein_ · 1 pointr/techsupport

I had a pretty simlair problem with my speakers. I don't know if this will help you but the solution for me was to buy a 'Noise Isolator'.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

u/TheOSC · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

If you are still having this problem I can not recommend getting a Ground Loop isolator enough.

​

Amazon Link

​

It creates an isolation point which breaks ground loops (the cause of the interference) this thing is pretty much a $10 get out of jail free card for tons of audio quirks.

u/WJMack · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_oEY6Bb3RRXDZ7 this one works!

u/robbierob89 · 1 pointr/GooglePixel

I have 2013 Cruze with Bluetooth phone support but no audio. I use a dongle similar to this one along with this (cuts out humming noise). Setup works great, music runs through the adapter and phone calls come in through the car's built in Bluetooth. My OG XL Pixel auto connects to both when I start my car.

u/Beanna · 1 pointr/Zeos

Ah yes I forgot about the mic... So I guess I'll go for the X1s anyway and plug the mic into my motherboard with a jack extension cable and hope for the best.

Just to double check, if that causes a gound loop, a noise isolator like the Mpow one plugged between the X1s and the X2 would work fine right?

Thanks again for being so available, it's greatly appreciated.

u/jellymaster2 · 1 pointr/Twitch

You have a ground loop, you need a noise reducing 3.5mm cable. Here's an adapter that'll do it that's prime on Amazon. This is a common problem for cars when using a charger+your aux jack to your stereo.

u/mongoose0330 · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

You may need a ground loop isolator. I bought this one and it fixed the issue for me.

u/deplorable-d00d · 1 pointr/audio

Ideally, use balanced cables (with a balanced source)

But barring that, just buy a ground loop isolator for your unbalanced system.

u/Rommsey · 1 pointr/buildapcsales

MPow does make a Noise filter. I use it and it does work well for the problem of noise. In terms of battery, I turn mine off each time I leave the car (occasionally forget) alas for extended use I just plug the power cable in.

I hear what you're saying though. Since I have the newer one I don't think the issues with it are as extensive as the prior generation ones.

u/eliminate1337 · 1 pointr/buildapc

Could be a ground loop. Does your power strip have proper grounding? Try plugging your speakers into different outlets (i.e. not through the power strip that also contains your PC).

How high is the gain on your speakers? You should max out your PC's software volume control and lower the gain on your speakers.

If none of that works, you could try a ground loop isolator

u/LawlessCoffeh · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Funny you should mention that, I think all Z5's DO share the issue, because I bought the first set from Best Buy, returned them because they wouldn't price match, got the same speakers from amazon, and am now just praying that the ones suggested work, because oh my god returning stuff is a pain in the ass.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2 Heck I wonder if one of these might help lol.

Also, it's sudden volume changes you say?

u/DdCno1 · 1 pointr/AskTechnology

I had the exact same issue. A PC and a few consoles, constantly having to plug headphones between them, it got annoying. I solved this issue with a simple sound mixer (less than 30 bucks on Amazon Germany, couldn't find it on Amazon US, but here's the exact model on Ebay). Four different devices just plug into the mixer and one output goes to my speaker, which in turn has my headphones and my bass cushion (it's a thing and it's amazing) plugged into it. Note that I had to use various adapters and converters, since this particular sound mixer uses 6.35mm mono audio jacks (two of them for each device), which I converted to RCA (use mono, not stereo adapters). PS2 and PS3 just connect directly via RCA with their analog cables, my Xbox One uses an HDMI audio extractor (powered by one of the console's USB ports) and a 3.5mm to RCA adapter and my PC the same kind of adapter, without the converter, of course.

The big advantage of this is that I don't have to switch between anything. All sound ends up in my headphones, without me having to do anything after the initial ten minute setup (which really just consisted of plugging everything in).

It is worth mentioning that with cheap sound mixers like the one I'm using there's likely going to be some humming and other noises, which my speakers thankfully filter out entirely before they reach my headphones. You may need an additional filter, which are however rather cheap. With my headphone directly plugged into the mixer, which I did just for testing, I also noticed that the general sound level was very low, which once again wasn't an issue anymore once I had plugged my speaker in between mixer and headphones.

u/Astrobound · 1 pointr/ios

This isn’t a solution necessarily, but it may fix your speakerphone problem. I used to use AUX in my car before I found this little Bluetooth-AUX receiver. Plugs into both a cig lighter and your AUX, then every time you turn your car on your phone automatically connects to Bluetooth. Pretty handy, and works like a charm.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G57CWZ8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vsGIDbCXA7R6Z


I’d recommend also picking this up if you’re interested - it silences the weird static noise the BT receiver produces through the car speakers.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_4tGIDbQDWD06Q

u/ekimnella · 1 pointr/amazonecho

If you are using an audio cable to connect to an external speaker you might need something like this:

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black)

u/3sleeves · 1 pointr/OP1users

That can be prevented with a ground loop isolator on the OP-1 output.

I've had laptops and cell phones make that noise while charging as well, but the OP-1 does have a pretty loud whine.

u/Perry7609 · 1 pointr/Android

I use this in my Kia at the moment. Works great! Wish it has a forward/rewind part at times, but it plays pretty well otherwise.

Also get a noise isolator in case you want to charge things at the same time.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/ref=pd_bxgy_107_2?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B019393MV2&pd_rd_r=FEMXD2FB1M9W9FCTJXCW&pd_rd_w=KXZVR&pd_rd_wg=tSvLf&psc=1&refRID=FEMXD2FB1M9W9FCTJXCW

u/swiftcashew · 1 pointr/NintendoSwitch

Sounds like you need a ground loop isolator, I had to get one of these to fix the static noise in my line-in jack

u/readwiteandblu · 1 pointr/audio

Noob indeed, but great to illustrate how to approach signal chain issues.

Always start with the signal source device and media. Most modern devices are capable of reading and outputting a variety of audio formats. If you have stereo speakers, that is the output setting you want in your player's settings. You now need to know which physical connections output that stereo signal. It is possible for that output to be RCA usually red and white and/or 3.5mm audio out. The 3.5 mm might say line out or headphone out. Headphone out is probably (always?) amplified and adjustable using the volume on the source. Line out is not amplified and adjustable only post-output (almost always. I had a Peavey powered mixer that broke this rule).

So now you have speakers or headphones you want to connect. If speakers, are they self-powered? If so, do they have connectors matching your outputs? If so, use the appropriate male-to male patch cable. If not, can you use an RCA to 3.5mm adapter cable? Or 3.5mm to RCA adapter? Chances are good for one of these. But if audio is HDMI only, use something like the device linked earlier to create it.

Now have a listen. If it sounds good, you're golden. If not, does it sound like your content is being obscured by white noise? If so, you need a ground loop device. I bought one on Amazon recently for about $10. I will try to find a link. It is also possible if the output is headphone/amplified, to need an attenuator.

Lastly, when getting help on connection issues, it always cannot hurt to include all devices you want in your signal chain including source, output and processing devices.

Edit: link to ground loop device... Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

u/SocialistNixon · 1 pointr/CarAV

It may not be the same issue as I had in my old car, but try one of these.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sspa_mw_detail_0?psc=1

It’s a ground loop interrupter and it got rid of the buzzing I used to have when using the aux. Like night and day difference.

u/Dark_24 · 1 pointr/buildapc

How are the Speakers Powered? You might have a floating ground issue?

You could try something like this between the AUX port and the AUX cable: https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

Or a bad AUX cable?

u/peanut_butter_lover4 · 1 pointr/pcmasterrace

Static is probably a grounding issue with the front headphone jack. The front headphone jack is typically part of the case that gets plugged into the motherboard. There is a high chance of it being of low quality.

Use a USB audio source (like a USB headset or a DAC) or use the rear headphone jack (which is part of the motherboard).

If you want to use the front headphone jack, this will most likely solve the problem (I used US Amazon since I couldn't find a similar product on the Netherlands Amazon website).

u/ShowMeTheMonee · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

I had also tried different outlets on my wall and I still had horrible interference. In the end, I speculate that the interference might have been coming from something in my computer, like the graphics card? But I dont know this for sure - I just know that the ground loop isolator fixed it straight off.

For what it's worth, I used something similar to this one - an inline isolator. I think mine is a different brand, but it's the same idea.

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2/

u/dtxmax · 1 pointr/sffpc

Connected to the aux on the motherboard.

3400G, 16GB 3200mhz ram, pico 160XT.

Zero whine from anything. Speakers are dead silent when not playing anything.

There are ground loop isolators you can buy to go between the motherboard and speakers if you’re that concerned.

⬇️

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Q7CoDb6CD21C4

u/BrannigansLuv · 1 pointr/mazda6

You need these things and to remove the radio real quick which is not hard (find a YouTube video)

Adapter

Kinivo BTC450 Bluetooth Car Kit (Hands-Free Car Adapter, Bluetooth to 3.5mm Aux Adapter,Apt-X) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_dxioDbVM3C12N


Aux cord kit

Goliton AUX 3.5mm Cable Connect iPod iPhone MP3 Phone Audio to Mazda Car Player (2 Meter Long) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006FFCONA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_OxioDbYJ4RWJE


Ground Loop Isolator (also is female to female so you can plug the BT kit into the aux which are both male plugs)

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio/Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_UyioDbT8PYX2B

u/manero64 · 1 pointr/amateurradio

Oh yeah, I also use a pair of these to isolate the audio in and out, it seems to help:

https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

u/XmentalX · 1 pointr/techsupport

It's one of these guys https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

Here is how they work http://www.tech-faq.com/ground-loop-isolator.html

If you pick one up off amazon to try and it doesn't work their return policy is great for these purposes.

u/DaddysLootz · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Thank you all for your detailed responses.

I ended up getting the LSR 305's from a local store with a good return policy. One of the employees took me into a closed test room where the 305 sounded much better. I really liked the ADAM F7 but for the price I couldn't justify over the 305.

During the testing I was able to turn on some subs with the speakers. For some reason the JBL 310s was barely kicking, a lot of times even sounded off if u weren't next to it. I was sure it was a setting/cable issue but the guy tried everything and it didn't improve. Now, the Person T10 on the other hand, boy do those babies kick out a nice clean punch. I had never heard of that brand before but I really enjoyed them.

No money to buy a good sub setup yet so I'm holding off. With that said I was pleasantly surprised with the nice clean kick the 305s offered in my room. It went from feeling non existent at Guitar Center to small but nice tight kicks in my room.

My problem; I have these hooked up with a 3.5mm TRS to 1/4 TS 10ft cable. The source is my Sound Blaster Zx. I'm getting a normal quiet hum when speakers are not plugged into the Sound Blaster which is fine, mostly only noticeable if I put my ears near the speaker. Now when I plug them into the Sound Blaster I get a very loud hum/static sound and when I move my mouse it whines. When playing a game this gets even worse.

My temporary fix; Put the volume knob on the back of the speakers to 4 instead of maxed at 10. This makes it to where the noises are nearly inaudible. But by doing this it also makes it to where volume isn't nearly loud enough for music (Windows Volume 100%) and just loud enough for other things.

My research; Many other people have experienced the same issue. Trying other cables, moving speakers/computer to other wall outlets hasn't worked for most people. What seems to have worked for most is either buying a FIIO D3 digital to analog convertor https://www.amazon.com/Digital-Analog-Converter-Optical-Toslink/dp/B005K2TXMO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797050&sr=8-1&keywords=fiio+d3 or using a Ground Loop Isolator https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-System-Stereo/dp/B019393MV2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1473797119&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=ground+loop+isolator&psc=1.

Any other suggestions that doesn't require purchasing extra stuff from amazon or at least finding these items locally in South Florida would be welcomed.

My question; I've heard that "Balanced" cables may help solve this issue. Forgive my ignorance but It is my understanding that the cable I bought is Balanced on the 3.5mm connector but unbalanced on the 1/4" side. Does a cable exist that is Balanced 3.5mm to dual Balanced 1/4" connectors? I haven't been able to find any, guessing it has to do with the cable splitting. What about going with 3.5mm to XLR, would that help?

My listening experience so far; I've only tried out YouTube music which since I'm a pretty casual audio listener is normally my main source of music. They sound much different than what I'm used to. I spent hours playing around with my Sound Blaster EQ and even went as far as going -2 on the LFT and +2 on the HFT on the back of the speakers.

I kept trying to get women vocals to be high enough to reproduce the hairs on my arms standing up feeling I have gotten so many times in the past when they hit that high note. Particularly when this girl hits the "rolling in the DEE-EEEE-P" part of her song https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a7UFm6ErMPU. No matter what I did I was not able to reproduce it. It feels like I cant get where I need to be without upping the higher frequencies and lowering the others. This does seem to get me closer to where I want to be but before I can hit the sweet spot the song starts to sound off.

With that said, I can definitely tell that these speakers are producing a much more quality sound than what I'm used to in the past. Although I'm unsure as of yet if that is translating into a more fun listening experience. Also for the first time ever my hearing is feeling very fatigued and somewhat muffled. I'm guessing its from all the tuning and listening I have been doing but at the same time it is very odd because I have not put the volume higher than what I've been accustomed to in the past.

Watching Twitch.tv;

Not sure if at this point it was due to my hearing fatigue but It felt different listening to these people talk. Like I had to pay closer attention to what they were saying or it would sound mubled/muffled. One guy I had never heard before sounded like he had too much bass to his voice to where it became muffled. Normally I'd chalk that up to a bad Microphone but b/c thousands of other viewers weren't mentioning it. I'm guessing it was on my side

Round up with very limited listening time;

Bass: Was expecting next to none. Pleasantly surprised.

High pitched vocal: Not hitting where I normally get goosebumps.

Overall listening: Sounds very quality but not yet sure I'm enjoying it as much.

Problem: Caused hearing to fatigue and sound muffled with very limited listening time and not very high volume.

Thanks for reading.

u/Shaggy_One · 1 pointr/ZReviews

Thanks for the extra suggestions. I also have the X2s and agree they are incredible sounding headphones. If OP has the money to burn then these take the spot of the SHP9500 easy.

For the mic, I prefer the boom mic since I had issues with my keyboard getting picked up on my Blue Snowball while I had it. I even tried putting dampers on my MX Brown keyboard to get rid of the clack. GREAT sound quality, but it picked up literally everything.

As for ground loop hums I've never had a problem with that but something like the Mpow Ground Loop Isolator is a great solution. Using one in my car as it is an incredibly noisy environment for EMI.

u/ReverendEntity · 1 pointr/audio

Ah-ha. I was going to suggest buying a ground loop isolator and plugging it in between your PC and headset. If the problem turns up again, something for you to consider.

u/dextersgenius · 1 pointr/LineageOS

This has nothing to do with LineageOS. I've had this issue in all ROMs, even going back to the OG Nexus 7 running the ROM that started it all, the one and only Timur ROM.

Basically it's a power issue, and when your DAC doesn't work it can be a combination of several issues so without actually looking at your setup and testing its hard to guess where the problem can lie. I could write an entire article about this but this is not the proper place for this discussion. Anyways I'd first look at getting a USB Isolator if you don't have one already, but depending on your setup you may need to add a capacitor between the DAC and the power supply or maybe even get a separate power supply if your DAC has a tendency to draw too much power. Some people have had success with using a USB Decrapifier like the one made by Schiit.

Bear in mind that a LOT of issues arise out of using a poor quality car charger and/or cable. Most no-brand OTG Y cables are of poor quality (insufficient thickness). I had to shorten my OTG cable by a few inches to make up for the power losses.

Anyways I'm no electrical engineer so I can't give you accurate advice sorry especially without knowing your exact setup, but I suggest asking at the Hydrogen Audio forums, there's plenty of similar posts there already.

Personally I've given up on using DACs in the car because tbh in the end it wasn't worth it especially since when driving I couldn't actually tell the difference between the DAC and playing the audio directly. What did make a significant difference though was getting a good head unit and a ground loop noise isolator. Delivering clean power to your tablet and then filtering the noise further using an isolator makes all the difference.

u/mobyhead1 · 1 pointr/audio

Perhaps you need a ground loop isolator like this.

You might also want to test whether your computer is actually connected to ground.

u/GingerHero · 1 pointr/buildapc

It depends on which connector you’re using. If it’s just the 3.5mm jack then the mpow one will be just fine:

Mpow Ground Loop Noise Isolator for Car Audio / Home Stereo System with 3.5mm Audio Cable (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vVVaAbDX5JECM

u/TheSacredWaffle · 1 pointr/AstroGaming

This is what I bought

There is also a Western Digital My Book external drive plugged into my Xbox via usb

So far the isolator has completely suppressed the buzz on my mic. After a few tests there is a quiet buzz that’s now in the background of the recordings. (Not in my headset like it used to)

I’m trying to fiddle with it but the main problem is solved with that thing I bought

EDIT: in my computer settings I turned down the mic volume to 70 and that was enough to get rid of the buzz on the recordings. I think it’s all good now

u/Kasendou · 1 pointr/xboxone

If you can't find suitable speakers that have an Optical Input, then you can use the Astro Mixamp Pro TR $130 (it has a STREAM port on the back).

http://www.astrogaming.com/mixamp%E2%84%A2-pro-tr/3AM99-XOU9Y-975.html

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With a ground loop noise isolator to get rid of any whining noises...

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/

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Then any typical 3.5mm jack speakers will work. I use this setup on my PS4 with a set of Logitech speakers on my desk and swap between this and my Sennheiser Game One headset.

https://www.amazon.com/Logitech-LOG980000382-Speaker-System-Z313/dp/B002HWRZ2K/

u/eXDee · 1 pointr/Android

The Wirecutter has a good round up of bluetooth car kits. Saves heaps of research.

My criteria:

  • Uses USB for power, not a cigarette lighter hard wired (allows for dual/tri usb chargers)
  • Supports APT-X and AAC if possible
  • Play/Pause and Skip
  • Can trigger Google Now
  • Clear audio for handsfree phone calls
  • Practical/well designed/not too large.

    I got the Himbox HB-01, while it doesn't support APT-X the new one does, and the stock stereo is probably the limiting factor in sound quality. To get google now working, i installed an app "BT Gnow". The New HB-01+ i believe would resolve both apt-x and google now out of the box.

    Note when you have a device such a phone or bluetooth car kit connected to both aux and usb, you may get noise in some vehicles. It varies by device and by vehicle. While in my car the noise is minimal, I still use a ground loop isolator to eliminate it entirely. You'll notice that the wirecutter mentions the newer HB-01+ has a whine, i'd wager that this may be eliminated with a ground loop isolator.
u/BlackdogRazor1 · 1 pointr/AstroGaming

I have a Gen1 (maybe gen2, idk) A40 and Mixamp that Ive had since 2013.

I had the humming in my headset for a while and I tried many different configurations to get rid of the hum to no avail.

Several years ago, I built a Y-cable that went from my mixamp (miniB end) to my PC for data only (USB A end), and another USB A end for power only to plug into the wall. The trick here is that the ground must still go to all three connectors. If you don't connect the ground on the data to PC end, the PC will do some very weird stuff and not recognize the Mixamp, or it will drop out and come back up, and give USB errors.

The Y-cable I built stopped all noise. Solder splicing USB wires is very tedious due to the very small wire gauge, and using heat shrink wasn't easy since the outer insulation on the cables I bought to cut up and modify melted fairly easily, even on low heat setting on my heat gun.

I built a new system at the end of 2017, namely with a new motherboard (old motherboard was GA-Z87X-UD4H), and I moved to another home shortly afterwards. In the move, I ended up losing the Y-Cable I built. So I decided to use the Astro USB cable it comes with til I could locate the cable I built.

Come to find out that there was no buzzing in the headset with the Astro cable connected to my new system's motherboard (ASRock Fatality X399 Gaming). So I just never ended up looking for my custom cable.

I recently discovered that now there is a slight buzzing/humming in the mic output. I can't hear it, but when I've played with others online, they say they can hear it. I made a recording using OBS so I can hear the severity of the noise. When playing it back, I can hear it very clearly. Its not very loud, but it is definitely noticeable, and Id be irritated having to hear it from someone else over my speakers or headset.

Im thinking of trying an inline ground loop noise isolator for the 3.5mm to the headset that I saw on Amazon, which also has some questions and good reviews about using it with the Astro Headsets and Mixamps. https://www.amazon.com/Mpow-Ground-Isolator-Stereo-System/dp/B019393MV2

If this doesnt work, then I will try a more expensive USB noise filter next.

u/glimmer_ · 1 pointr/Twitch

I use this simple one. Plug the line out from the mixer into the isolator and then the isolator plugs into your pc

u/AspergillusTicor · 1 pointr/OP1users

If it's a short run to the mixer you can get away with unbalanced connection, but at least grab one of these to eliminate the ground loop. Also, no charging while playing!

u/HowSR · 1 pointr/BudgetAudiophile

Try this or get different cables to use this, because that works fine for me.

u/rimboslice · 1 pointr/hometheater

I took the sub around with the RCA to AUX plugged into my phone to test. The sub will hum in the bedroom even when nothing else is connected to the outlet. I have this MPOW GLI connected to the TV and the speakers plugged into it. I thought this would correct the hum I was dealing with as everything was pointing to a ground loop, but the hum persists.

u/TheArmman1995 · 1 pointr/audiophile

Forgot to mention that I use this too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_8k2m55I3Z98tI
I had a ton of interference in the monitors.

u/wizoatk · 1 pointr/amateurradio

If wrapping the cable around a ferrite choke (cheaper) doesn't reduce the noise to an acceptable level, the next step up would be a transformer based ground isolation which almost certainly would. Amazon (and other places) sell simple plugin versions:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2

u/AxletheRed · 0 pointsr/Twitch

It must be the ground loop isolator I got. I am using audacity to record, and playing it back to test it out. Not streaming yet.
Before I installed ground loop isolator it was in stereo, and after I installed it is mono. This is what I am using: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019393MV2/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
I need a ground loop isolator. See this video if you want: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sm77C6GLAsk

u/freealitee · 0 pointsr/GooglePixel

Get a Bluetooth adapter for the aforementioned aux port. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_nMpWBPsncdEok
This is one that supports aptx, works well, has pass through cig lighter cord with USB port built in so you don't need to worry about battery. Might want to get this as well, depending on how well your stereo is grounded. I experienced weird buzzing but my aux jack is soldered (by me) to my tape input, so I'm not surprised there was issues. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B019393MV2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_GwFAL9sbYR2Z4

Anyway that's like $40 to turn your car stereo into fancy and not have to fuck with the aux cables again (which for me were always wearing out anyway.)