Reddit mentions of Nature's Miracle Just for Cats Urine Destroyer Intense Urine Stain & Odor Remover, 32-Ounce Pour Bottle (P-5721)

I've had excellent luck with enzyme treatments, which break down the odor causing compounds into their base components.

https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Destroyer-32-Ounce-P-5721/dp/B003I5QRJ2

Just be aware that it takes physical time for this to work. Mist it over the surfaces two, three, maybe four times a day. It will get rid of the odors in 72 hours, maybe more, if it is really a heavy concentration.

> Deep down, I know they're not going to be happy, as they'll just say we aren't financially ready for one and go on and on about how much time and money will go into the pup.

Those concerns are not unjust - I am surprised you haven't brought up your intentions before if this was premeditated/you were on a waiting list for a while. The best way to 'break the news' is just to be honest about it and why you choose to do it. You do not need to be argumentative - if you have properly prepared and are ready for the responsibility, it is not a difficult conversation to have. You should have plenty of money saved up if this was properly planned (at least $1-3k, plus puppy & startup costs at a minimum) and should have your schedules work out at your respective jobs to ensure that you will be able to let the puppy out every couple hours as needed (or have lined up a friend/family member/dog walker to help you out).

Make sure you have all the key supplies on hand - particularly:

• A crate (that can be appropriately sized)
  
• Food and water bowls (stainless steel)
  
• 6' non-retractable leash
  
• Appropriately sized harness & collar
  
• Dog tag with name and contact information
  
• a few toys
  
• a bag of high value treats (freeze dried liver is usually a good standby, but string cheese or hot dogs could also be used - you can play around to discover what your pup REALLY loves when they come home).
  
• A clicker (Recommended for training, but not necessarily required)
  
• Nature's Miracle Urine Destroyer
  
• 1 - 2 Puppy sized kongs
  
• Poop bags
  
  Avoid things like dog beds or soft bedding for the crate, at least initially. You don't want anything in the crate the puppy could pee on and push aside - you want to teach them to hold their bladder and to keep their space clean. Here is more information on crate training/house training.
  
  Training starts as soon as puppy arrives home. Start out with the basics like name/eye contact, potty training and crate training. You can also work on bite inhibition, capturing calmness, sit, & down.
  
  Be sure to get the pup to a vet within 48-72 hours of bringing them home for a wellness check (required by many puppy contracts and generally a good practice). You should also send in any AKC registration information, city licensing and start your pet insurance plan (if you choose to have one - it is highly recommended) within the first month or so of having puppy at home. Be in touch with your breeder and feel free to ask them questions - if you are working with a reputable breeder they should be happy to help you out if you have questions or concerns.
  
  As far as general care goes, there is a lot to cover - The Dog Training Wiki and Dog Training Textbook are good resources to get you started. Kikopup also has some really great training videos that are worth checking out. Here are some highlights:
  
  
• enroll in a puppy kindergarten/socialization class ASAP. You have a very short and critical socialization window from 8 to about 14 weeks. Work with a reputable club in your area (I don't recommend petsmart/petco). Here is a good starting point for finding a club near you.
  
  
• The rules as a cute little puppy need to be the same rules you expect of an adult dog. If you don't want him on the couch as an adult, he shouldn't be on it as a puppy - etc. Set your dog up for success by deciding what you expect of your dog and having everyone in the household be CONSISTENT with those rules.
  
  
• Training beyond kindergarten is also recommended - Aim for at least 1 or 2 additional obedience classes. I also would encourage you to try for the Canine Good Citizen by the end of your first year with your dog (especially if you want to do more advanced sport work as they get older).
  
  
• Avoid prolonged forced exercise (eg anything on leash). Walks should be kept short at first (5-10 minutes) and increased by 5-10 minutes for each additional month of age up to 30-45. Try to keep forced exercise on hard surfaces like pavement under 30minutes for the first year to help minimize any joint strain. Walk on grass as much as possible. Free play in a fenced in yard is OK (or on a long line if you live in an apartment).
  
  
• NO DOG PARKS. Not until at least 6 months of age. It can be a health hazard until your pup is UTD on all their vaccinations and it can be dangerous for your puppy to be interacting with unfamiliar/unpredictable dogs. Socialization is GREAT, but keep it with familiar dogs or in more controlled instances for the first few months. When the pup is older and HAS some basic manners, you can try going during off-peak hours/to the small dog side and slowly introduce him to the environment. You dont want your pup to be accosted by an unpredictable dog (which there can be many of in some parks) as it can cause serious re-activity/fear issues for their whole lives (and those are hard issues to iron out). Find puppy play dates with the Humane Society or other clubs outside of kindergarten, let him/her play with familiar dogs that are good with puppy's/well mannered, let them meet other (friendly) dogs on leash after they are done with their vaccines.
  
  
• Corgis can be prone to hip/joint/back issues. As such, things like jumping off high furniture or beds can cause some damage - from sore joints/pulled muscles, to things MUCH more serious like slipped disks. I would recommend investing in some dog stairs for any high furniture your corgi will be allowed on and training him/her to use them from day one.
  
  
• Understand the type of dog they are - they are herders. As such, expect some mouthiness, growling, weird sounds, and barking. These are rarely in malice - but rather their nature. If you are used to non-herding dogs, this can be quite a shift. Speaking for myself, my previous experience was with pointers, so transitioning to a herder was a bit weird at first. You are going to get chomped. You are going to have your dog make weird sounds in your general direction - don't freak out or think your puppy is aggressive - this is normal. You can curb all these behaviors with time and consistent training (just be sure to give it TIME. It will take months).
  
  There is a lot to know and a lot you will learn on the job, too. These are smart little bastard - do as much research as you can so you can be as prepared as possible. Owning a dog as an adult is much MUCH different than having a family dogs as a kid. It will be a shift!
  
  Good luck!

Just fyi this stuff works really well for getting rid of literal cat pee.

> Do you have any recommendations for a good enzyme cleaner?

I'd suggest trying Nature's Miracle - just tried it for the first time on a recommendation from our vet, and that stuff is great!

First thing you're gonna hear on this sub is get the boys checked by a vet. With cats urination issues are sometimes symptoms of very serious and sometimes fatal conditions. What you're also gonna wanna do is:

1. Make sure the litter box is frequently scooped (at least once a day). And the entire box should be emptied and refilled fresh at least every few weeks. The standard rule for the number of litter boxes required is the number of cats plus one. So in an ideal world they should have access to 3 litter boxes. If that's not gonna happen and they just have the one then it needs to be scooped VERY frequently. Try and position the litter box near a problem area. It can be moved once the problem has been resolved but it will make the retraining easier. You can add Litter Attract to the litter box and that will make it more tempting for them to use it.
   
   
2. Cats will pee in the same area. The spots they have peed in need to be cleaned with an enzymatic cleaner like Natures Miracle. Nothing else will work. Even if it looks clean and smells clean to you, the cats will still smell it.
   
   
3. If the cats are causing a ruckus at night then they need to be played with more. Get some interactive toys like the wands and play with them until they pant. A tired cat is a good cat.
   
   
4. Many people on this sub recommend and use feline pheromone spray/diffusers/collars. Feliway is the top brand. It can help problem cats calm down and be more comfortable.
   
   I'd also recommend you or your parents watch some videos on youtube by Jackson Galaxy aka the Cat Whisperer. This guy knows his stuff. Here's a few videos to get started:
   1
   2
   3

Use a black light to find the areas that need to be treated. Then use enzymes to make it go away for good:

https://www.amazon.com/Natures-Miracle-Destroyer-32-Ounce-P-5721/dp/B003I5QRJ2

You could try giving all the removable parts (if it's a bagless)a good washing in an enzymatic cleaner, and use the leftover to spray down whatever other parts you can reach with a spray bottle.

Try Nature's Miracle urine remover, and then Bissel upholstery shampoo - a few reviews said it works for cat odors and stains and even projectile vomiting where Resolve failed.
I use Nature's Miracle products with my puppy when he has floor (not carpet) accidents and it's like nothing ever happened.